The Official Sony VPL-VW550ES/ VPL-VW675ES Owners Thread - Page 64 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1891 of 2038 Old 05-01-2018, 02:33 AM
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I've been in contact with Screen Technics and they seemed OK and will replace it.
Fairly snuff.
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post #1892 of 2038 Old 05-01-2018, 05:31 PM
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It is definitely a different viewing experience, the projector in a dark room, like a theater, vs a panel TV in a room with other ambient lighting. I think just the size alone makes your eyes work harder just constantly adjusting to lighting conditions, just as if you were actually in the location. Just like if you are walking from a light room into dark, your irises need to adjust, then back out again, adjust again. And with some of these movies the scene and shot shifts have the same effect. Watching something with more consistent overall light is somewhat "less work".
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post #1893 of 2038 Old 05-02-2018, 05:06 AM
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It is definitely a different viewing experience, the projector in a dark room, like a theater, vs a panel TV in a room with other ambient lighting. I think just the size alone makes your eyes work harder just constantly adjusting to lighting conditions, just as if you were actually in the location. Just like if you are walking from a light room into dark, your irises need to adjust, then back out again, adjust again. And with some of these movies the scene and shot shifts have the same effect. Watching something with more consistent overall light is somewhat "less work".
That is why bias lighting (or what Philips call 'Ambilight') can actually improve your viewing experience as it takes a little strain from your eyes without taking too much from a dark environment.
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post #1894 of 2038 Old 05-02-2018, 01:27 PM
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That is why bias lighting (or what Philips call 'Ambilight') can actually improve your viewing experience as it takes a little strain from your eyes without taking too much from a dark environment.


. Hmm thanks. I have not heard of that before. I just thought the goal was dark as possible. Some more research...

Do you any pointers where to look regards a theater room?
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post #1895 of 2038 Old 05-03-2018, 07:46 AM
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That is why bias lighting (or what Philips call 'Ambilight') can actually improve your viewing experience as it takes a little strain from your eyes without taking too much from a dark environment.
Do you have that around your screen, I have seen people do this with TV's, not projection screens. Sounds like something to try though
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post #1896 of 2038 Old 05-03-2018, 09:52 AM
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Do you have that around your screen, I have seen people do this with TV's, not projection screens. Sounds like something to try though [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif[/IMG]
I have it on one of my TVs and it does help with perceived contrast and alleviates eyestrain somewhat.
Not tried it with my projector although I would think it would give similar benefits.

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post #1897 of 2038 Old 05-03-2018, 09:56 AM
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Hmm thanks. I have not heard of that before. I just thought the goal was dark as possible. Some more research...

Do you any pointers where to look regards a theater room?
Don't have any pointers apart from search Bias lighting and/or ambilight and see what you think. ☺️

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post #1898 of 2038 Old 05-03-2018, 10:06 AM
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I'll give it a go. I'm still getting the feel of it and tuning to taste. I watched Zero Dark Thirty last night and was using that to tune up blacks. Somany examples of both incredibly dark scenes, as well as heavy backlight with dark fabrics and parts. I'm actually finding the projector too bright for my eyes even on low lamp, and ended up winding the Iris brightness back to 60% to get the best level of detail. And on some scenes where I struggled with the bright backlight, if I blocked the bright areas roughly with my hands I could see more. I don't understand the panel tv industry and fans seming desire for more lumens... My eyes only have one iris setting... It isn't like my eye is taking HDR pictures with multiple exposure shots...

To be honest I have a screen issue on the drop down with some ripples and have to go thru a warranty swap on it.
How many foot lamberts are you getting on your screen ? You might want to invest in a decent light meter.
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post #1899 of 2038 Old 05-03-2018, 12:42 PM
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How many foot lamberts are you getting on your screen ? You might want to invest in a decent light meter.
I guess I could. But either way my eyes are the sensor I'm forced to use when I watch movies! :P

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Don't have any pointers apart from search Bias lighting and/or ambilight and see what you think. ☺️
I found this interesting project.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Four...Projector-Scr/

I'll see how I go. I'll probably adjust to it all. It is so new. Maybe it was just the range in Zero Dark Thirty.
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post #1900 of 2038 Old 05-03-2018, 12:46 PM
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I guess I could. But either way my eyes are the sensor I'm forced to use when I watch movies! :P



I found this interesting project.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Four...Projector-Scr/

I'll see how I go. I'll probably adjust to it all. It is so new. Maybe it was just the range in Zero Dark Thirty.
I think back lighting my screen would be a distraction. It's just barely getting to be too bright at times with 47 foot lamberts with HDR, using the Panamorph Paladin DCR lens. But only for brief instances. Seems strange to work hard to make everything dark and non reflective, then introduce light back in.
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post #1901 of 2038 Old 05-03-2018, 03:21 PM
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I think back lighting my screen would be a distraction. It's just barely getting to be too bright at times with 47 foot lamberts with HDR, using the Panamorph Paladin DCR lens. But only for brief instances. Seems strange to work hard to make everything dark and non reflective, then introduce light back in.
Yes. I think I just need time to acclimatize to it.
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post #1902 of 2038 Old 05-03-2018, 05:16 PM
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The Official Sony VPL-VW550ES/ VPL-VW675ES Owners Thread

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Originally Posted by Archibald1 View Post
Don't have any pointers apart from search Bias lighting and/or ambilight and see what you think.


Screen Innovations Zero Edge Screens have LED lighting built in....programmable to URC remote as well. I have it in my theater with my Sony 675


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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post #1903 of 2038 Old 05-04-2018, 02:40 AM
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Bias lighting is not going to work well for projection screens. A TV is smaller so lighting that surrounds the tv and wall is more noticeable as the distance from the center of the screen to the light is not that great. On a projector screen, the lighting should be way off in the peripheral vision. It would probably cause more problems than benefits.


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Yes. I think I just need time to acclimatize to it.
Why not close your iris way down. Set the iris in advanced to something like Full and brightness 20%. How big is your screen? On my setup, I have a 135" screen and it is definitely not too bright. In some cases high lamp is still an improvement.

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post #1904 of 2038 Old 05-04-2018, 01:10 PM
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Bias lighting is not going to work well for projection screens. A TV is smaller so lighting that surrounds the tv and wall is more noticeable as the distance from the center of the screen to the light is not that great. On a projector screen, the lighting should be way off in the peripheral vision. It would probably cause more problems than benefits.



Why not close your iris way down. Set the iris in advanced to something like Full and brightness 20%. How big is your screen? On my setup, I have a 135" screen and it is definitely not too bright. In some cases high lamp is still an improvement.
Yes I had dropped it to 60% on low lamp mode. Much easier. It is 110" 16:9, 13 ft throw. I'm running 3d on low lamp ant that is bright enough. I've no idea why Iris controls are not available for that though.
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post #1905 of 2038 Old 05-09-2018, 03:25 AM
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Bias lighting is not going to work well for projection screens. A TV is smaller so lighting that surrounds the tv and wall is more noticeable as the distance from the center of the screen to the light is not that great. On a projector screen, the lighting should be way off in the peripheral vision. It would probably cause more problems than benefits.



Why not close your iris way down. Set the iris in advanced to something like Full and brightness 20%. How big is your screen? On my setup, I have a 135" screen and it is definitely not too bright. In some cases high lamp is still an improvement.
Bias lighting will definitely have a good impact with projectors and even more of an impact with projectors with a higher black floor as it will give the eye something to contrast against and improve the subjective blacks.

Bias lighting is supposed to be subtle anyway, and it can effectively reduce eyestrain.

Good article here:
https://www.howtogeek.com/213464/how...bias-lighting/

For a small cost, variable brightness LED strips in many colours and temperatures (for white) can be had and if they aren't any good in a particular setup behind the screen, use them around the room to light the way to the seating instead or something.
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Bias lighting will definitely have a good impact with projectors and even more of an impact with projectors with a higher black floor as it will give the eye something to contrast against and improve the subjective blacks.
Super disagree. I messed with it on my theater. The screen is too big to notice it at all it just looks weird. On a TV it's a completely different experience. Unless your screen is small or you sit far back, it doesn't improve any perceived contrast or help with eye strain as you're looking at the center of the screen, which is large, and even in your far peripheral vision is still more screen. The bias lighting is just too far away.

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post #1907 of 2038 Old 05-09-2018, 07:14 AM
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Super disagree.
Cool.
Life would be boring if everyone agreed.
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Hey gang,
I'm pairing this projector with a Phoenix pro anamorphic lens and I use the Oppo 203 to switch from 16x9 to scope to fill my 2.37 screen. Can anyone tell me if its possible to use this feature on the Oppo but still allow my projector to do the video processing(upscalling)? When I switch the Oppo to native output it will no longer fit the image to my screen. Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated.
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I have had my VPL-VW675ES for 3 months now and have done some adjusting of the settings. Is there a separate tool (blu-ray) that I should be using to calibrate it? How do I know if the picture is too light or too dark? Should I just trust my eyes?

David M.
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post #1910 of 2038 Old 05-15-2018, 01:24 PM
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I have had my VPL-VW675ES for 3 months now and have done some adjusting of the settings. Is there a separate tool (blu-ray) that I should be using to calibrate it? How do I know if the picture is too light or too dark? Should I just trust my eyes?
Hi.
If you like what you see and it doesn't look obviously unrealistic then you can certainly trust your eyes.
However if you want to get the colours/white/greys to be accurate to D65, then you will need to calibrate in some form or other.

I believe there are HDR calibration discs available online, but I don't recall the name off the top of my head.

Enjoy the 675, it is a fantastic piece of kit!
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Originally Posted by dminches View Post
I have had my VPL-VW675ES for 3 months now and have done some adjusting of the settings. Is there a separate tool (blu-ray) that I should be using to calibrate it? How do I know if the picture is too light or too dark? Should I just trust my eyes?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Archibald1 View Post
Hi.

If you like what you see and it doesn't look obviously unrealistic then you can certainly trust your eyes.

However if you want to get the colours/white/greys to be accurate to D65, then you will need to calibrate in some form or other.



I believe there are HDR calibration discs available online, but I don't recall the name off the top of my head.



Enjoy the 675, it is a fantastic piece of kit!

Here's the one I recommend:

https://diversifiedvideosolutions.com/index.html
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Ahhh, yes, that is the one that I could see in my minds eye.
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I should get that, now I'm operational. Anyone know what the difference is between the $25 and $40 digital version? They don't have a description and the titles are nearly the same other than the undefined term "package bundle*. I guess HLG is no real use to projector owners who just watch uhd and Blu Ray.
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I should get that, now I'm operational. Anyone know what the difference is between the $25 and $40 digital version? They don't have a description and the titles are nearly the same other than the undefined term "package bundle*. I guess HLG is no real use to projector owners who just watch uhd and Blu Ray.
Read the titles. The package bundle includes HDR-10 and HLG. $25 versions are HDR-10 or HLG.

JVC DLA-RS500
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post #1915 of 2038 Old 05-17-2018, 09:55 AM
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Is there a reason why I can't get apple TV to output 4:2:2 chroma to my 675ES? I realize it may not matter but I would think that the projector would support it but Apple TV says the frequency is out of range.

David M.
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post #1916 of 2038 Old 05-17-2018, 12:20 PM
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Is there a reason why I can't get apple TV to output 4:2:2 chroma to my 675ES? I realize it may not matter but I would think that the projector would support it but Apple TV says the frequency is out of range.
Hi.
Yes, the ATV is probably trying to output 4K 60Hz 4:2:2 HDR (the standard highest signal for 18Gbps HDMI) and it is not accepted by the 260/285, 360/385 or 550/675.
The only ways to get it to show an image is to:

1: Make sure to set HDMI format to 'Enhanced'
2: Set the ATV to output at 30hz or less or alternatively, if you want 50 or 60hz, set the chroma to 4:2:0.

The highest signal that can be received by these machines is 4K 50/60hz 10 bit (HDR) 4:2:0.

Hope that helps.
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Hi.
Yes, the ATV is probably trying to output 4K 60Hz 4:2:2 HDR (the standard highest signal for 18Gbps HDMI) and it is not accepted by the 260/285, 360/385 or 550/675.
The only ways to get it to show an image is to:

1: Make sure to set HDMI format to 'Enhanced'
2: Set the ATV to output at 30hz or less or alternatively, if you want 50 or 60hz, set the chroma to 4:2:0.

The highest signal that can be received by these machines is 4K 50/60hz 10 bit (HDR) 4:2:0.

Hope that helps.
Thanks for the explanation.

I did notice that my 675 says it is getting a 4:2:2 signal from my Oppo 203 playing an UHD disc.

David M.
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post #1918 of 2038 Old 05-17-2018, 01:48 PM
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Thanks for the explanation.

I did notice that my 675 says it is getting a 4:2:2 signal from my Oppo 203 playing an UHD disc.
Hi.
If you have set source direct on your Oppo, then UHDs will be sent @24hz. These Sonys are capable of displaying 4:4:4 at 30hz or under.
My guess is you have your HDMI format currently set to standard, hence 4:2:2 on UHDs, unless you have specified resolution, chroma and bit depth on the Oppo.

Set you HDMI to Enhanced and leave it there as it allows maximum bandwidth signals.

Your source must output at 30hz or less to give full 4:4:4 HDR signals. Anything over 30hz (i.e. 50/60) will only be accepted as 4:2:0 in HDR.

1080p at 50/60hz will show as 4:4:4 also.
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Originally Posted by Archibald1 View Post
Hi.
If you have set source direct on your Oppo, then UHDs will be sent @24hz. These Sonys are capable of displaying 4:4:4 at 30hz or under.
My guess is you have your HDMI format currently set to standard, hence 4:2:2 on UHDs, unless you have specified resolution, chroma and bit depth on the Oppo.

Set you HDMI to Enhanced and leave it there as it allows maximum bandwidth signals.

Your source must output at 30hz or less to give full 4:4:4 HDR signals. Anything over 30hz (i.e. 50/60) will only be accepted as 4:2:0 in HDR.

1080p at 50/60hz will show as 4:4:4 also.
This is very helpful.

David M.
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post #1920 of 2038 Old 05-19-2018, 02:20 PM
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This is very helpful.
No problem.
It seems that many people are finding this issue as they connect their 260/360/550’s to the increasing number of 50 or 60hz HDR sources without first matching the source output to the maximum capability of the projector.
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