Official JVC RS520/RS620 (X7500/X9500) Owner's Thread - Page 105 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3121 of 5034 Old 09-08-2017, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Sittler27 View Post
I just sold my X750R and got a pretty good price for it.
I can also pick up the X770R or the X970R new right now for pretty good deals too.

I know the new JVC's are being announced and so we don't know much about them, however from the spec sheets there doesn't appear anything mind-blowing like 4K native or anything.

So seeing as I won't want to pay full price for a non-4K native projector (wait a few more years for a true 4K one in my price range), do you think I'm better off moving to the X770R or is the X970R's hand-picked components, greater lumens (200 over my 1800 lumen X750R) and extra warranty worth what ends up being $2.5K difference between the two?

About brightness, my X750R with 1500 hrs on the original bulb gave me 118 nits (in high lamp, with iris at -1). I'd like to be able to get the same nits in low lamp on a new bulb with the new projector, so given that would the X970R be the better bet with it's 100 lumen extra over the X770R?


Again, and finally, I'm only willing to wait further for the new JVC details from CEDIA (or Sony's for that matter) if the indication is we are going to see something really nice at the same prices as what a X970R was when it was new (about $12K in Canada)...but it will also mean waiting for 4-5 months without a projector.
Tough call. Cedia is cool and all but you need hand's on to really know about the new units and that takes time.......
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post #3122 of 5034 Old 09-08-2017, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by GregCh View Post
DI is Dynamic Iris.

Basically it works like the iris in your eye. It throttles down the light on dark scenes. This allows the overall black level to drop because there isn't as much stray bright light reflecting from the screen and walls. When the scene brightens back up the iris opens up. You can also use the iris to have better fine control on the brightest light output from your projector. Instead of just high lamp, low lamp, you can fine tune the maximum brightness so that you don't have too much light in high lamp or even low lamp mode.

Thanks both GregCh and Bandyka!!! Appreciate the insight and advice.
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post #3123 of 5034 Old 09-08-2017, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post
Tough call. Cedia is cool and all but you need hand's on to really know about the new units and that takes time.......
Ok. just swapped my X750R for a X970R so I may just skip these new ones, but I have about a week before I can't return it now.

Likely just keep it.
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post #3124 of 5034 Old 09-08-2017, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark the Red View Post
Thanks both GregCh and Bandyka!!! Appreciate the insight and advice.
No Worries, additionally seeing initial reports on Eshift 5 you may want to wait for the X9900 if you are not in a hurry.

JVC RS620/X9500 in bat cave Anthem MRX-720 + 3xpower amps = 7.1.4, Martin Logan Motion 60XT fronts, ML FX rears, ML Motion 50XT centre, 4 x ML Motion 2 on ceiling Atmos, ML Balanced force 210 as the beast. Panasonic UB900, STAX-3170 earspeakers, HTPC, PS4, PS3, Amiga 500 etc..Epson LS10000 calibration and WCG SDR settings: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-dig...l#post50298297
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post #3125 of 5034 Old 09-09-2017, 04:47 AM
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Panny UB900 Firmware update 1.77 issue

Hi Everyone,

I have been watching Netflix & Amazon HDR content through the Panny as I have an issue with the Roku (projector display goes funky when coming out of HDR content even w/o CMD on). Last night I fired it up to watch Netflix and was prompted to do the 1.77 firmware update. Unfortunately I did the update. Now when trying to return to the player main menu from viewing any content (e.g. DVD, Network Services like Netflix) the projector shows a black screen with rolling green lines. The only way to address this is to turn the projector off (with remote) and back on. I can watch content - once- but at the end of using that content and returning to the home screen I need to shut the PJ off.

So now I have issues watching HDR with Roku and all content with the Panny. I tried a factory reset but 08 FIN doesn't show in the menu described in the manual, maybe because a reset was done as part of the upgrade? I don't know. I'm thinking of buying a new one at BestBuy (that wont have the firmware update) and returning the one that was updated as a sad means of "rolling back" the update because it doesn't seem like there is another way to roll back the firmware update.

I have a Denon X4300H in the chain and have read posts that the AVR can cause issues, but the only thing that changed in this case was the firmware version since I last used the player so that seems to be a clear cause.

I'm getting frustrated - my Epson 8350 1080p projector and Yamaha RXV773 and Roku worked in a 7.1 setup with absolutely no issue for 5 years. But I bit the bullet and went UHD and 7.2.4 and now every month I am plagued by issues, whether Roku or Panny or JVC and struggle with every device. Is this just like with these new 4k/UHD formats until things stabilize?

Anyone have any thoughts on what to do?

I was thinking about running the proj on hdmi2 directly into the Panny (as I put 2 Bluejeans 16foot HDMI garden hose cables in wall) and connecting the Panny to the AVR via the HDMI audio out but all I did was a firmware update and don't really feel like pulling stuff out of my rack to reconnect. Sorry to crab. I love the RS620 picture but these issues with the other components are frustrating.

David
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post #3126 of 5034 Old 09-09-2017, 05:09 AM
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What Firmware is your projector on?

JVC RS620/X9500 in bat cave Anthem MRX-720 + 3xpower amps = 7.1.4, Martin Logan Motion 60XT fronts, ML FX rears, ML Motion 50XT centre, 4 x ML Motion 2 on ceiling Atmos, ML Balanced force 210 as the beast. Panasonic UB900, STAX-3170 earspeakers, HTPC, PS4, PS3, Amiga 500 etc..Epson LS10000 calibration and WCG SDR settings: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-dig...l#post50298297
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post #3127 of 5034 Old 09-09-2017, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Bandyka View Post
What Firmware is your projector on?
I updated to 30.1 a month ago to try and address the Roku/HDR issue to no avail.

So I just unplugged and re-plugged the Panny and it came up in 480p so I re-set all the settings and turned off CMD on the JVC. Put in FastFurious8 and it started playing, went back to home and HDMI synch tried and "stuttered" several times but finally locked on. It would pop to the Panny home screen for a sec and then flicker to black while re-syncing. It did this a few times and finally locked on and I went to Netflix, ran Cook's Table for a minute and came back to the home screen fine (no stutter). So it looks like it is fixed. No idea if it was coincidence or causality that I turned off CMD (I had been running it on low).

We'll see if I have the Panny home page HDMI synch stutter again .. and next time I sit down I'll turn CMD back ON and see what happens ...

Thanks,
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post #3128 of 5034 Old 09-10-2017, 02:04 AM
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If/when it happens next time using the original cable that came with the player connect it straight to he projector to test and see if anything else in the chain is causing the issue.

JVC RS620/X9500 in bat cave Anthem MRX-720 + 3xpower amps = 7.1.4, Martin Logan Motion 60XT fronts, ML FX rears, ML Motion 50XT centre, 4 x ML Motion 2 on ceiling Atmos, ML Balanced force 210 as the beast. Panasonic UB900, STAX-3170 earspeakers, HTPC, PS4, PS3, Amiga 500 etc..Epson LS10000 calibration and WCG SDR settings: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-dig...l#post50298297
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post #3129 of 5034 Old 09-12-2017, 07:13 AM
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DI going haywire

I was watching Looper the other night and had to turn off the DI because it was pumping too much. I didn't think too much about it and just chalked it up to it being a difficult film. I have about 700 hours on the projector and this is the first time I have had to turn it off. Last night while watching the first episode of Ozark I noticed it pumping again and then it went crazy. Going dark in bright scenes and bright in dark ones and everywhere in-between. It also made a loud noise right before losing its mind. I switched it to auto 1 and back to auto 2 and it was perfect for the rest of the episode. Hoping it stays good but wanted to see if this has happened to anyone else?
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post #3130 of 5034 Old 09-12-2017, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Bandyka View Post
No Worries, additionally seeing initial reports on Eshift 5 you may want to wait for the X9900 if you are not in a hurry.
I am actually not in a particular hurry, as I am smack dab in the middle of the HT build with an 2 month ETA on completion (God willing).

Hence my question regarding the projector offset, as I am right now, installing cable conduit so I don't want to find out I put my projector too far back into the theater room (i.e., rumors of JVC projector tool / Projector Central tool being broken actually being true).

Maybe you can help with the screen projector throw balance. Is it better putting the projector (x790BK or RS620) closer with a low gain screen (15' but right overhead the main seating zone)? Or further away with a high gain screen (behind everybody (my preference) but concerned the resulting image will not be as sharp?

I have a HT that will be 100% light controlled.

Like I said, I am trying to do a lot of research myself but everywhere I read all I get are "it depends" answers or "drive 3 hours to this shop to try both" etc. etc. etc. While both answers are indeed true, I am burning through a lot of marriage capital working away in my basement, I would much prefer to trust the "pros" like yourself in something like this, rather than spend 12 additional valuable weekend hours Pepsi challenging my above connundrum.

Once again, the reason I post this question is that you know this projector as well as any and clearly are a discerning HT gentlemen with exquisite taste.
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post #3131 of 5034 Old 09-12-2017, 08:27 AM
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Discrete IR / Mode Settings

I’m considering making a move from my old Sony VPL-HW30es and upgrading to one of the new JVC projectors. One of the things I really like about the Sony is when I choose a user picture mode (Gaming, TIVO, BluRay), it automatically switches all color settings, motion control, brightness, contrast, etc. for the user mode I choose with no further button pushing. I custom program URC remotes so when my kids press the gaming mode button I've programmed on the remote, the video source is automatically changed to the Xbox and the projector is sent the picture mode.

I’m trying to better understand how the JVC works in this regard as in looking at the manual it appears most settings must be individually set as best as I can tell. For example, it looks to me if you want to use the Xbox in a gaming mode that you would have to go to “Picture Adjust > Blur Reduction > Low Latency > On/Off” and similarly choose any other options you want changed (MPC, CMD, etc.) each time and then manually turn off the game/low lag mode when finished. Am I missing something or does this seem correct?

I also see that on the JVC you can save some but not all settings to custom created “User” modes. For example, if I defined on of the “User” modes to “Game” mode, it would save my color profile and gamma but I would have to individually change MPC, CMD, Low Latency. My complete IR code set from URC does not include discrete IR codes for those settings so I would then have to set up toggle macros to set these options but that method usually doesn’t work consistently.

Hopefully someone can provide some guidance on this as I want to make the user experience as easy as possible for my wife and kids. I don’t mind tinkering around with menus to get what I want but that won’t work for the rest of my family or guests.

Thanks for your help!

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post #3132 of 5034 Old 09-12-2017, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Javs View Post
So I had a look at the new Autocal software v9 1.1 revision yesterday. I got red push right away again...

However, I figured out what is causing the glitch and was able to get around it, at least it works every time on my unit, I hope it will work for some of you guys too.

You can tell you are going to have issues with the red push doing a gamma calibration because the first red gamma reading will be higher than the 2nd.

What is causing this is the fact that the meter is trying to read to screen too fast, and the JVC actually flashes up different 'trash' frames before it projects the actual red gamma frame (or any other frame) usedfor the calibration.

My unit does this on just about every frame it displays during autocal, always either a white, green or blue very fast flash before the actual calibration pattern is displayed.

So for me, to get around this, I just stood next to my meter and waited until the 'Before Calibration Log' completed, and jsut as the last 100% Grey frame comes up and the screen goes black, i held my hand over the meter and blocked it, then sure enough every time there was those couple of fast 'rubbish' frames of green or blue or something, then I would move my hand away and then the first 1/33 RED Gamma step would display and the meter would read it as expected.

Every time I did this, I got great gamma readings and was able to calibrate gamma.
I'm wondering if this is the reason for what I described in the following post:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-dig...l#post54780122

As described, for HDR, when displaying HDR black clipping patterns from Masciola I get definite red push.

This is after calibrating with Masciola's greyscale patterns a greyscale calibration for Color Temp = HDR (with 6500K correction).

Anyways, I'm wondering if I follow the hand-cover technique for the HDR JVC autocal gamma calibration I may get rid of the red push as described?
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post #3133 of 5034 Old 09-12-2017, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by zorax2 View Post
I’m trying to better understand how the JVC works in this regard as in looking at the manual it appears most settings must be individually set as best as I can tell. For example, it looks to me if you want to use the Xbox in a gaming mode that you would have to go to “Picture Adjust > Blur Reduction > Low Latency > On/Off” and similarly choose any other options you want changed (MPC, CMD, etc.) each time and then manually turn off the game/low lag mode when finished. Am I missing something or does this seem correct?
As far as I've seen, everything you configure in a User mode is saved that way in that user mode. Whenever you select that mode, things are reset to that configuration. I have two main modes on my RS600 a 2D SDR and a 2D HDR mode. The former is setup with and SDR gamma, aperture at -10, Rec.709 color profile, low lamp, the later is setup with a custom gamma curve, aperture at 0, Rec.2020 color profile and high lamp. It's one button push to switch between them.

Quote:
I also see that on the JVC you can save some but not all settings to custom created “User” modes. For example, if I defined on of the “User” modes to “Game” mode, it would save my color profile and gamma but I would have to individually change MPC, CMD, Low Latency. My complete IR code set from URC does not include discrete IR codes for those settings so I would then have to set up toggle macros to set these options but that method usually doesn’t work consistently.
You would have to set all that stuff up once when you setup the user mode, but after that it should all be saved. IIRC there's 6 user slots that you can configure as you wish.

And there's discrete codes for just about everything. You'll have to paste them into CCP's Univeral Browser from the long format IR code list:
http://support.jvc.com/consumer/supp....jsp?pageID=11
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post #3134 of 5034 Old 09-12-2017, 09:24 AM
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I have an Oppo 203 with my JVC X970R. Also have a Linker.

I've been thinking of swapping out the 203 wth a UB900, but want to understand the benefits there first.

I don't use the HDR to SDR conversion feature in the Oppo, so don't realize it's black crush issue; nor, would I realize the benefits of the UB900 slider in this regard.
I play back HDR not SDR.

Would the UB900 for both/either 1080p/4K content provide visually evident benefits over the Oppo 203?

Most of my content is locally streamed MKV files from my NAS, which the 203 handles well.
Can the UB900 also handle these just as well? (i.e. Atmos bitstreaming, etc.)

What other features are better/worse on the UB900 vs. the 203 for our setups? Obviously the built-in Netflix, etc. is great, but I already have an Xbox One (and soon Xbox One X) for that.
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post #3135 of 5034 Old 09-12-2017, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sittler27 View Post
I have an Oppo 203 with my JVC X970R. Also have a Linker.



I've been thinking of swapping out the 203 wth a UB900, but want to understand the benefits there first.



I don't use the HDR to SDR conversion feature in the Oppo, so don't realize it's black crush issue; nor, would I realize the benefits of the UB900 slider in this regard.

I play back HDR not SDR.



Would the UB900 for both/either 1080p/4K content provide visually evident benefits over the Oppo 203?



Most of my content is locally streamed MKV files from my NAS, which the 203 handles well.

Can the UB900 also handle these just as well? (i.e. Atmos bitstreaming, etc.)



What other features are better/worse on the UB900 vs. the 203 for our setups? Obviously the built-in Netflix, etc. is great, but I already have an Xbox One (and soon Xbox One X) for that.


If you don't use the HDR to SDR check conversion I don't see any reason to swap players. I have the OPPO and my only complaint is the HDR to SDR conversion.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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post #3136 of 5034 Old 09-12-2017, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sittler27 View Post
I have an Oppo 203 with my JVC X970R. Also have a Linker.

I've been thinking of swapping out the 203 wth a UB900, but want to understand the benefits there first.

I don't use the HDR to SDR conversion feature in the Oppo, so don't realize it's black crush issue; nor, would I realize the benefits of the UB900 slider in this regard.
I play back HDR not SDR.

Would the UB900 for both/either 1080p/4K content provide visually evident benefits over the Oppo 203?

Most of my content is locally streamed MKV files from my NAS, which the 203 handles well.
Can the UB900 also handle these just as well? (i.e. Atmos bitstreaming, etc.)

What other features are better/worse on the UB900 vs. the 203 for our setups? Obviously the built-in Netflix, etc. is great, but I already have an Xbox One (and soon Xbox One X) for that.
I've had two Oppo and two Panny, I quickly realized that the Panny provides a sharper more refined image no matter the settings, the Oppo wasn't even close, also littered with bugs one after the other and after some very friendly conversation with Oppo support it was a no brainer to go back to Panny land. been happy since. IMO if you are mostly playing videos from files stored on a HDD you would be MUCH better off with a high end PC with a Geforce 1080ti and MadVr and keep a Panny for true UHD discs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark the Red View Post
I am actually not in a particular hurry, as I am smack dab in the middle of the HT build with an 2 month ETA on completion (God willing).

Hence my question regarding the projector offset, as I am right now, installing cable conduit so I don't want to find out I put my projector too far back into the theater room (i.e., rumors of JVC projector tool / Projector Central tool being broken actually being true).

Maybe you can help with the screen projector throw balance. Is it better putting the projector (x790BK or RS620) closer with a low gain screen (15' but right overhead the main seating zone)? Or further away with a high gain screen (behind everybody (my preference) but concerned the resulting image will not be as sharp?

I have a HT that will be 100% light controlled.

Like I said, I am trying to do a lot of research myself but everywhere I read all I get are "it depends" answers or "drive 3 hours to this shop to try both" etc. etc. etc. While both answers are indeed true, I am burning through a lot of marriage capital working away in my basement, I would much prefer to trust the "pros" like yourself in something like this, rather than spend 12 additional valuable weekend hours Pepsi challenging my above connundrum.

Once again, the reason I post this question is that you know this projector as well as any and clearly are a discerning HT gentlemen with exquisite taste.
Thanks for the kind comments however I am just a simple guy with a taste for high end HT.
Personally I would stay away form high gain screens due to artifacting but many will challenge this of course, what distance will you have your PJ if you placed it at the back of the room? The 620 is 2000 lumens which is no slouch and can light up some serious screens. I have no issue running low lamp from about 5 meters.

JVC RS620/X9500 in bat cave Anthem MRX-720 + 3xpower amps = 7.1.4, Martin Logan Motion 60XT fronts, ML FX rears, ML Motion 50XT centre, 4 x ML Motion 2 on ceiling Atmos, ML Balanced force 210 as the beast. Panasonic UB900, STAX-3170 earspeakers, HTPC, PS4, PS3, Amiga 500 etc..Epson LS10000 calibration and WCG SDR settings: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-dig...l#post50298297
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post #3137 of 5034 Old 09-12-2017, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by stanger89 View Post
As far as I've seen, everything you configure in a User mode is saved that way in that user mode. Whenever you select that mode, things are reset to that configuration. I have two main modes on my RS600 a 2D SDR and a 2D HDR mode. The former is setup with and SDR gamma, aperture at -10, Rec.709 color profile, low lamp, the later is setup with a custom gamma curve, aperture at 0, Rec.2020 color profile and high lamp. It's one button push to switch between them.

You would have to set all that stuff up once when you setup the user mode, but after that it should all be saved. IIRC there's 6 user slots that you can configure as you wish.

And there's discrete codes for just about everything. You'll have to paste them into CCP's Univeral Browser from the long format IR code list: http://support.jvc.com/consumer/support/support.jsp?pageID=11
Thank you very much for the information and link to the IR pages. I did not find a discrete IR code for the Low Latency mode in the IR codes but it does exist in the RS232 control support as shown in the JVC RS232 Latency image I attached. JVC has nearly every command I'd want in that RS232 format. Is there any way you know to convert the RS232 commands to hex format so that I can use one of my hex/IR conversion programs to eventually get it into my CCP Universal Browser?

Based on your user mode description and how it saves things, it sounds like I can configure a JVC to work just like the Sony with a single button press to select the appropriate configuration I'd like to use. Can anyone please copy any user profile to a second user profile and save the second user profile with the low latency command enabled? Then simply test your original profile one to the second newly created profile (with latency mode enabled) to see if the latency mode is correctly turned on or off for each mode. If that method with user profiles works properly, I'll be ecstatic as I'll be able to purchase and enjoy a new JVC projector and join the JVC club!
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7.2.4 with Denon X4300W, ATI 2005 & 1807 Amps, Kef Reference 203 Mains, 202c Ctr, 201 Surr, Ci200RR-THX Top Rears, Q300 Frt Hts, E301 Rear Surr, Power Sound Audio PSA dual S3600i Subs,
GIK & DIY Acoustics, JVC X790/RS540 Projector, Stewart Neve 100" Screen, Panasonic Blu-Ray DMP-UB900, Xbox One X, Crowson Transducers, INSTEON, UDI ISY994i, Amazon Echo
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post #3138 of 5034 Old 09-12-2017, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by zorax2 View Post
Thank you very much for the information and link to the IR pages. I did not find a discrete IR code for the Low Latency mode in the IR codes but it does exist in the RS232 control support as shown in the JVC RS232 Latency image I attached. JVC has nearly every command I'd want in that RS232 format. Is there any way you know to convert the RS232 commands to hex format so that I can use one of my hex/IR conversion programs to eventually get it into my CCP Universal Browser?
You might want to ping Craig or Mike, it looks like they haven't updated their document for the 2016/2017 models. The 2014 models didn't have low lag mode. Either way (an x20 user would have to confirm) I assume you could create a Game user mode with Low Latency mode enabled, and that should stick in that user mode. I never found a way to convert from one format to the other. Theoretically you can generate the codes and Off/On would be 30/31, but I was never successful with that method, you can see here:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/93-rem...vc-rs4910.html

FWIW, if I were you, I'd be looking at getting an x40, they've refined the HDR handling on it, and it shouldn't be too much more expensive with preorder pricing vs closeout pricing.
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post #3139 of 5034 Old 09-12-2017, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by zorax2 View Post
I’m considering making a move from my old Sony VPL-HW30es and upgrading to one of the new JVC projectors. One of the things I really like about the Sony is when I choose a user picture mode (Gaming, TIVO, BluRay), it automatically switches all color settings, motion control, brightness, contrast, etc. for the user mode I choose with no further button pushing. I custom program URC remotes so when my kids press the gaming mode button I've programmed on the remote, the video source is automatically changed to the Xbox and the projector is sent the picture mode.

I’m trying to better understand how the JVC works in this regard as in looking at the manual it appears most settings must be individually set as best as I can tell. For example, it looks to me if you want to use the Xbox in a gaming mode that you would have to go to “Picture Adjust > Blur Reduction > Low Latency > On/Off” and similarly choose any other options you want changed (MPC, CMD, etc.) each time and then manually turn off the game/low lag mode when finished. Am I missing something or does this seem correct?

I also see that on the JVC you can save some but not all settings to custom created “User” modes. For example, if I defined on of the “User” modes to “Game” mode, it would save my color profile and gamma but I would have to individually change MPC, CMD, Low Latency. My complete IR code set from URC does not include discrete IR codes for those settings so I would then have to set up toggle macros to set these options but that method usually doesn’t work consistently.

Hopefully someone can provide some guidance on this as I want to make the user experience as easy as possible for my wife and kids. I don’t mind tinkering around with menus to get what I want but that won’t work for the rest of my family or guests.

Thanks for your help!
The last document on this page does a better job of showing you some available codes:
http://support.jvc.com/consumer/supp....jsp?pageID=11
There are discrete codes for CMD and a code that brings up a MPC selection menu. I have not seen any codes for low latency published yet but there may be some. It I get chance I'll play around and see if I can find any.
Not all the ir codes listed work on the current models but most do. PM me if you want to know about any particular codes.
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Last edited by Dundas; 09-12-2017 at 12:24 PM.
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post #3140 of 5034 Old 09-12-2017, 03:04 PM
 
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Originally Posted by zorax2 View Post
... it sounds like I can configure a JVC to work just like the Sony with a single button press to select the appropriate configuration I'd like to use.


Zorax... I can confirm what Stranger has said. One of the only things left out of the saved USER settings, is the function for screen masking. That is a stand alone function. I imagine it is that way because JVC did not consider those of us with 2:40:1 screens and our zooming/scaling the projected image depending on the format of the source image. I have a flat black wall behind my screen, so it's not too much of an issue, but otherwise it might be.

Tech manuals are not yet posted for the new projectors, but you can see the current projector manuals here... http://pro.jvc.com/prof/attributes/i...&feature_id=11

Then keep an eye out for when they add the new manuals to this link... http://pro.jvc.com/prof/attributes/f...l_id=MDL102506
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post #3141 of 5034 Old 09-12-2017, 05:49 PM
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JVC Autocal and when to use on x770RB/RS520?

I have a new x770RB/RS520 on the way. First JVC projector. I want to calibrate it to get the best picture/colour/gamma when I get it. I have been reading up on calibration. The only calibration I have ever done was with a DVE calibration disk. But I am trying to understand a little about the JVC Autocal software. I am thinking of getting a Spyder 5 Pro. I have a few questions.

Is JVC's Autocal supposed to be a full calibration for best picture/colour/gamma or only something you run to keep your projector within spec as the lamp gets older?

Should an Autocal be run to calibrate a new projector or should it have a certain number of hours first?

I assume Autocal is better than a calibration disc?

Is there something better for a calibration to get the best picture/colour/gamma? I would prefer something not overly complicated but I am willing to learn a tool. I also prefer to have a do it yourself solution so I can tweak as the bulb gets older.

Are JVCs pretty good in terms of calibration out of the box? x770RB/RS520 in particular.

Thanks,

Knight
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post #3142 of 5034 Old 09-12-2017, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Buddylee123 View Post
I was watching Looper the other night and had to turn off the DI because it was pumping too much. I didn't think too much about it and just chalked it up to it being a difficult film. I have about 700 hours on the projector and this is the first time I have had to turn it off. Last night while watching the first episode of Ozark I noticed it pumping again and then it went crazy. Going dark in bright scenes and bright in dark ones and everywhere in-between. It also made a loud noise right before losing its mind. I switched it to auto 1 and back to auto 2 and it was perfect for the rest of the episode. Hoping it stays good but wanted to see if this has happened to anyone else?
I have noticed the tiniest bit of this DI "pumping." I watched a bunch of the Harry Potter films on blu ray and saw it a bit. Havent seen it since. Don't know if it is a function of the media.

I did see banding with CMD off on FastFurious 8 UHD lots of shots of Cipher's forehead in the airplane. A lot. Havent seen it in other UHD movies though.

So I don't know how much is from the blu ray/uhd itself ... versus the projector.
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post #3143 of 5034 Old 09-12-2017, 06:20 PM
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You only need Spyder Express.

Because these units suffer from Gamma droop a lot in the first 1000 hours or so, you want to run Gamma Autocal at 250 / 500 / 750 hours. I am betting your gamma will continue to droop until around then. Mine has.

The Autocal will get your PJ very close to reference. For most people its more than good enough, then you would just run touch up cals generally every 500 hours or so as the lamp ages. Its just I recommend 250 for the first 1000 hours since the panels themselves will suffer from substantial droop which needs to be corrected.

Yes it should be very good out of the box for greyscale and colour should be pretty good too, enough that you arguably wont need to worry much in those first couple hundred hours until you can put in the time it takes to get a good Autocal done. It will be pointless to do it before that first major droop starts to hit since you will only need to do it again.

Please continue the discussion in the Autocal thread.

Despite the thread being for older models, nothing much has changed and Mannis guide it excellent.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-dig...500-rs600.html

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post #3144 of 5034 Old 09-12-2017, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by dgkula View Post
I have noticed the tiniest bit of this DI "pumping." I watched a bunch of the Harry Potter films on blu ray and saw it a bit. Havent seen it since. Don't know if it is a function of the media.

I did see banding with CMD off on FastFurious 8 UHD lots of shots of Cipher's forehead in the airplane.
A lot. Havent seen it in other UHD movies though.

So I don't know how much is from the blu ray/uhd itself ... versus the projector.
This is the elusive CMD bug which actually turns on CMD at random even though it shows as off, if you ever see it again just cycle CMD on and off and it will vanish.
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post #3145 of 5034 Old 09-12-2017, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by stanger89 View Post
I assume you could create a Game user mode with Low Latency mode enabled, and that should stick in that user mode. I never found a way to convert from one format to the other. Theoretically you can generate the codes and Off/On would be 30/31, but I was never successful with that method, you can see here:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/93-rem...vc-rs4910.html
I feel your pain! Been there, done that with a number of AV devices. I always struggle to refamiliarize myself with MakeHex, IRScrutinizer, Pronto Edit, etc. and then actually get the code to work correctly.

You’ll laugh in that my favorite remote is the MX-850. I just love the 10 hard keys and simple text screen. Our guests can even figure it out without being shown how to use it. I love MX-850 Editor as I can just fly with that software. I’m so bummed that they stopped updating the IR database.

I finally resorted to getting an MX-990 and Complete Control Software. I really don’t like it that much as I find programming with it to be much more slow and cumbersome. What I end up doing is programming the IR codes I need and then teach them to the MX-850s I have.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stanger89 View Post
FWIW, if I were you, I'd be looking at getting an x40, they've refined the HDR handling on it, and it shouldn't be too much more expensive with preorder pricing vs closeout pricing.
Definitely – I hope to get either an RS-440 or RS-540. While I think the 440 would do the job for me, I’d probably get the itch to upgrade much earlier to get the THX Cert, Wide Color Gamut (WCG), 130,000:1 vs 40,000:1 Native Contrast Mode, Dynamic Iris Differences that the 540 offers. I think the 440 would keep me content for a few years whereas the 540 would make me blissful for at least four years. Like everyone else, the biggest obstacle will likely be to get my wife’s blessing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dundas View Post
The last document on this page does a better job of showing you some available codes:
http://support.jvc.com/consumer/supp....jsp?pageID=11
There are discrete codes for CMD and a code that brings up a MPC selection menu. I have not seen any codes for low latency published yet but there may be some. It I get chance I'll play around and see if I can find any.
Not all the ir codes listed work on the current models but most do. PM me if you want to know about any particular codes.
Thanks for finding that information. If you ever happen to find an IR code for the low latency – please PM me as that would be great to have. It’s frustrating that JVC publishes the codes for that for the RS-232 but does not provide IR codes for the latency or all the other things they do for RS-232.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bytehoven View Post
Zorax... I can confirm what Stranger has said. One of the only things left out of the saved USER settings, is the function for screen masking. That is a stand alone function.
Thank you for confirming Stranger89s post. It is very important to me that the USER settings retain all the proper settings to simplify operations of the projector and different operating modes to make it easy to use for my family.

@stanger89 , @Dundas , @Bytehoven :

Again – thank you all for your help. While I live in the Minneapolis / St. Paul metro area, JVC only lists 3 projector dealers. Two of them are Best Buy Magnolias and the other is an independent with a nice retail showroom.
One of the Magnolias had a RS-420 in a room but when I got there they told me it hasn’t worked for at least six weeks as they can’t get the optical/HDMI link to work properly. They did have an Epson 5040 and a Sony VPL-VW675ES. While the Epson was setup reasonably well, the Sony looked like crap. I have no idea as to what they did to make it look so bad – a real shame.

While the other Magnolia and Independent told me they had JVCs and to come take a look, they neglected to tell me they didn’t have any JVCs on display. Rest assured, all three places pounded into me the great merits of the Sony and Epson. I truly can’t knock either the Sony or Epson as they also have a lot of strengths but I thought it was interesting. It’s hard to believe JVC hasn’t managed to build a better presence in a large metro area like the Twin Cities.

Given all that, I will not have a chance to see a JVC in action until I actually purchase a JVC projector. I’d sure love to see one first but I’m confident based on all I’ve read and the support of folks like you that I’ll be thrilled with the performance and learn to tweak anything I need based on everyone’s feedback. I’m very grateful that all of you were able to help me confirm that I can save all settings to a USER setting to make it work in the manner our family is accustomed to. That was my big roadblock but I’m happy to hear it will all work as intended.

I look forward to getting the pre-order pricing – I hope I can make it all work out!

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post #3146 of 5034 Old 09-13-2017, 04:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Javs View Post
This is the elusive CMD bug which actually turns on CMD at random even though it shows as off, if you ever see it again just cycle CMD on and off and it will vanish.
Thanks for that Javs.
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post #3147 of 5034 Old 09-13-2017, 05:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Bytehoven View Post
Zorax... I can confirm what Stranger has said. One of the only things left out of the saved USER settings, is the function for screen masking. That is a stand alone function. I imagine it is that way because JVC did not consider those of us with 2:40:1 screens and our zooming/scaling the projected image depending on the format of the source image.
Masking isn't save with lens memory is it? That's really where I wish it was saved, but it's not on my RS600.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zorax2 View Post
I feel your pain! Been there, done that with a number of AV devices. I always struggle to refamiliarize myself with MakeHex, IRScrutinizer, Pronto Edit, etc. and then actually get the code to work correctly.

You’ll laugh in that my favorite remote is the MX-850. I just love the 10 hard keys and simple text screen. Our guests can even figure it out without being shown how to use it. I love MX-850 Editor as I can just fly with that software. I’m so bummed that they stopped updating the IR database.

I finally resorted to getting an MX-990 and Complete Control Software. I really don’t like it that much as I find programming with it to be much more slow and cumbersome. What I end up doing is programming the IR codes I need and then teach them to the MX-850s I have.
I've actually been quite happy with my MX880 and CCP, I find programming it to be quite easy and straightforward, especially compared to what I read in threads about people trying to get Harmony's to work.

Quote:
Definitely – I hope to get either an RS-440 or RS-540. While I think the 440 would do the job for me, I’d probably get the itch to upgrade much earlier to get the THX Cert, Wide Color Gamut (WCG), 130,000:1 vs 40,000:1 Native Contrast Mode, Dynamic Iris Differences that the 540 offers. I think the 440 would keep me content for a few years whereas the 540 would make me blissful for at least four years. Like everyone else, the biggest obstacle will likely be to get my wife’s blessing.
It will be interesting to see preorder pricing this year. JVC dropped the RS540 MSRP $1000 and the 640 $2000, I wonder if that's an actual price drop, or if they just lowered the MSRP to be a bit closer to normal street pricing. The former would be great. FWIW, the THX Cert is, as far as I can tell, worthless, but the other differences are real, and IMO very much worth it.
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post #3148 of 5034 Old 09-13-2017, 05:38 AM
 
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Masking isn't save with lens memory is it? That's really where I wish it was saved, but it's not on my RS600..
No, the masking option is not saved and I agree it would be nice to have the option as part of screen zoom user presets.
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post #3149 of 5034 Old 09-13-2017, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by zorax2 View Post
I feel your pain! Been there, done that with a number of AV devices. I always struggle to refamiliarize myself with MakeHex, IRScrutinizer, Pronto Edit, etc. and then actually get the code to work correctly.

You’ll laugh in that my favorite remote is the MX-850. I just love the 10 hard keys and simple text screen. Our guests can even figure it out without being shown how to use it. I love MX-850 Editor as I can just fly with that software. I’m so bummed that they stopped updating the IR database.

I finally resorted to getting an MX-990 and Complete Control Software. I really don’t like it that much as I find programming with it to be much more slow and cumbersome. What I end up doing is programming the IR codes I need and then teach them to the MX-850s I have.
I've got that beat! I'm still using MX-500s and MX-600s. I have over 15, 7 in daily use and 3 new in a box. All but my first 2 were picked cheap on eBay. With IRCloneMX and the CCF2MX utility I have full Windows PC programing and editing and CCF import capabilities. The only codes I've ever had any problem with are Roku's because they are ridiculously long so I could not import them but the MX500 was still able to learn usable codes.
One consistent remote around the house helps with other users and the 3 dedicated macro buttons are great.

irScrutinizer should be all you need these days especially if you have a sender/receiver which makes it very easy to analyze and test signals.
Barf's design can be built for under $20. http://www.harctoolbox.org/arduino_nano.html
I am using all irScrutinzer generated signals with my DLA-X970.
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Last edited by Dundas; 09-13-2017 at 01:09 PM.
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post #3150 of 5034 Old 09-13-2017, 01:03 PM
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Thanks for the kind comments however I am just a simple guy with a taste for high end HT.
Personally I would stay away form high gain screens due to artifacting but many will challenge this of course, what distance will you have your PJ if you placed it at the back of the room? The 620 is 2000 lumens which is no slouch and can light up some serious screens. I have no issue running low lamp from about 5 meters.
My room is 12.6 x 22 ft. Effective throw distance worst case would be a 19ft throw (if I go with a hush box / separate equipment room through glass at back). First seating position would be 13ft-15ft from screen in either place. I would really like to avoid having the projector right above the first seating position because I have terribly low ceilings in my dungeon. But with your 5m comment, I might have to.

Once again appreciate the help.
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