Official JVC RS520/RS620 (X7500/X9500) Owner's Thread - Page 132 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3931 of 5062 Old 12-05-2017, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by jeahrens View Post
It would be a tough call. The 520 will give you a P3/BT2020 filter and deliver basically the whole color gamut for 4K. The RS420 lacks this and delivers around 80% of the colorspace (still good). It's questionable whether you would see the contrast advantage of the 520 in that room. Just going with my gut I would say you would see some, but not what you would in a room with better light control. Wish I could give you a more definitive answer, but it's really up to you whether the advantages are worth the cost. I do feel the 520 would look better, but I'm not sure it's enough to justify the cost. If you're going to keep the unit for a while and that little voice would be nagging you about what you could have, then a closeout 520 may be worth it. If you're not the type to be bothered by what you may be missing, the 420 will look great.
Yeaa thats what i thought. Was wondering about the p3 filter but doesnt it come at too high a cost for brightness in this room?. I mean isnt the weak link brightness anyway for hdr? So missing either dynamic iris or p3 filter isnt that huge a minus?
Ayway its 8 years back i saw dynamic iris and i fear i developed a severe allergic to it but fat saturated colors is nice.
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post #3932 of 5062 Old 12-05-2017, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by krumme View Post
Yeaa thats what i thought. Was wondering about the p3 filter but doesnt it come at too high a cost for brightness in this room?. I mean isnt the weak link brightness anyway for hdr? So missing either dynamic iris or p3 filter isnt that huge a minus?
Ayway its 8 years back i saw dynamic iris and i fear i developed a severe allergic to it but fat saturated colors is nice.
JVC has one of the better dynamic irises out there. I'd seen DIs before and was worried about it (my previous RS46 did not have a DI). The only time I can see it work is during credits. And it really does make a noticeable difference. As far as brightness goes, you need to check some of the measurements people are getting out of these units. They are all VERY bright and the 520 I have creates an amazing HDR picture. I don't think you'll have issues with either of these units with regards to brightness.
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post #3933 of 5062 Old 12-05-2017, 10:16 AM
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3D Flicker

Watched the first 3D movie (Skull Island) on my new projector last night. Overall fantastic 3D image, but there seems to be a fair amount of flicker going on, only in the background of really bright scenes.
I read somewhere in an X500 thread that this was a common issue. Is this normal for the RS 520, or is there a setting somewhere in the menu that will eliminate this?
I'm using the XPAND X105-RF-X1 glasses, if that has any bearing.

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post #3934 of 5062 Old 12-05-2017, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by snave8 View Post
Watched the first 3D movie (Skull Island) on my new projector last night. Overall fantastic 3D image, but there seems to be a fair amount of flicker going on, only in the background of really bright scenes.
I read somewhere in an X500 thread that this was a common issue. Is this normal for the RS 520, or is there a setting somewhere in the menu that will eliminate this?
I'm using the XPAND X105-RF-X1 glasses, if that has any bearing.
That's the lower switch rate that the JVC uses, it's normal.

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post #3935 of 5062 Old 12-05-2017, 11:42 AM
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That's the lower switch rate that the JVC uses, it's normal.
Thanks

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post #3936 of 5062 Old 12-05-2017, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by jeahrens View Post
JVC has one of the better dynamic irises out there. I'd seen DIs before and was worried about it (my previous RS46 did not have a DI). The only time I can see it work is during credits. And it really does make a noticeable difference. As far as brightness goes, you need to check some of the measurements people are getting out of these units. They are all VERY bright and the 520 I have creates an amazing HDR picture. I don't think you'll have issues with either of these units with regards to brightness.
Thanx for all your good advice.
Will surely get one of those pj first week 2018.

What about DI effect when using subtiltes as we use that all the time? - i say it because you mention credits.
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post #3937 of 5062 Old 12-05-2017, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by krumme View Post
Thanx for all your good advice.
Will surely get one of those pj first week 2018.

What about DI effect when using subtiltes as we use that all the time? - i say it because you mention credits.
Subtitles are no problem. I watch a lot of foreign films.
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post #3938 of 5062 Old 12-05-2017, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by jeahrens View Post
JVC has one of the better dynamic irises out there. I'd seen DIs before and was worried about it (my previous RS46 did not have a DI). The only time I can see it work is during credits. And it really does make a noticeable difference. As far as brightness goes, you need to check some of the measurements people are getting out of these units. They are all VERY bright and the 520 I have creates an amazing HDR picture. I don't think you'll have issues with either of these units with regards to brightness.
Yep, back when I bought the RS600, I used to have, I fully intended, not to use the dynamic iris, but ended up using it.
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post #3939 of 5062 Old 12-05-2017, 11:07 PM
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Subtitles are no problem. I watch a lot of foreign films.
Same, it does not have a detrimental effect.

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post #3940 of 5062 Old 12-06-2017, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by jeahrens View Post
JVC has one of the better dynamic irises out there. I'd seen DIs before and was worried about it (my previous RS46 did not have a DI). The only time I can see it work is during credits. And it really does make a noticeable difference.
What is the key benefit of DI--on what sort of scene does it add the most benefit?

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post #3941 of 5062 Old 12-06-2017, 01:33 PM
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What is the key benefit of DI--on what sort of scene does it add the most benefit?
The DI will adjust the light output based on brightness of a given frame. How your eye perceives contrast is based a lot on how much light it's receiving. Just as an example I'm going to guess you've seen Star Wars: The Force Awakens. The scenes on the desert planet during the day are very bright. In that case the dynamic iris would open up all the way. You would have the maximum light output and since the scene is very bright the black floor being raised is not noticed by your eye. In the same film there is a shot of a Star Destroyer eclipsing the planet and bringing the light output very low. In that case the DI would close down and the black floor drops dramatically. Because there is very little light the scene brightness dropping is not objectionable to the eye. Even in scenes with mixed lighting the DI algorithm is able to find a setting that works. My RS46 had a low black floor, but the dynamic iris on the RS520 allows it to easily eclipse it. It's not quite can't see your hand in front of your face level, but gets very close.

The RS520 and 620 have 2 irises, a static and dynamic iris. How they work is a bit confusing. To set the overall light output you set the iris to manual and dial in where you want the output to be. This sets the brightness ceiling using the static iris. What you do next is the somewhat confusing part, you then change to Auto-1 or Auto-2. The manual iris number is still present (and working) but grayed out. Auto-1 uses both gamma and the dynamic iris to control contrast scene by scene and Auto-2 uses just the second iris to mechanically change the brightness. I prefer Auto-2. Again no matter which setting you use the static iris is still clamping the overall brightness of the image.

The only time I can see Auto-2 work is during the credits. The text appears and it takes a second for the DI to figure out the screen is mostly black and close down. The RS4x0 has 1 iris. It can either act as dynamic or static iris. So in that case you can either set the iris to static and adjust brightness and black floor to the best compromise or use the DI and possibly run into issues with it being overly bright (I know in my case the RS520 wouldn't be very comfortable at full blast with SDR material).
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post #3942 of 5062 Old 12-07-2017, 06:53 AM
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I'm curious if others see the same thing I see on their JVC projectors with their HDFury Linkers. (I have updated to 0.25, and I'm feeding a JVC rs620.)

I'm using EDID 2 with HDR disabled, but when I play UHD, I don't see the auto iris move hardly at all, except on fade-to-black scenes. And even those don't go dark like a 1080p discs. The Iris closes some, but not all the way down, so the black bars are very visible still.

Are others finding this as well?

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post #3943 of 5062 Old 12-07-2017, 08:35 AM
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What Is This?

Just noticed this last night......Not sure what it is. Looks like dust on the lens, but I brushed it very lightly with my finger, and it's not on the outer lens.
Absolutely no issue with image quality....I was looking for it.
I've attached a picture, if you zoom in you should be able to see what I'm talking about...Lot's of little spots.
Also, what's the best method for cleaning the lens?
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post #3944 of 5062 Old 12-07-2017, 09:39 AM
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Here's a better picture of what I'm referring to.
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post #3945 of 5062 Old 12-07-2017, 12:18 PM
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Here's a better picture of what I'm referring to.
Those will always be there because there is a huge amount of dust in the air we don't see, and it tends to cling to glass. However, your picture won't show those on screen unless it's REALLY caked on there.


Just use a common lens cleaner for glasses. Don't use your finger because there are oils you don't want on the lens.

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post #3946 of 5062 Old 12-07-2017, 12:37 PM
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Those will always be there because there is a huge amount of dust in the air we don't see, and it tends to cling to glass. However, your picture won't show those on screen unless it's REALLY caked on there.


Just use a common lens cleaner for glasses. Don't use your finger because there are oils you don't want on the lens.
Just to be clear, the cluster of "spots" are on the inside of the lens.

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post #3947 of 5062 Old 12-07-2017, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by jeahrens View Post
The DI will adjust the light output ...
Thank you for the thorough explanation. Much appreciated. I guess I should try it out!

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post #3948 of 5062 Old 12-07-2017, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by snave8 View Post
Just noticed this last night......Not sure what it is. Looks like dust on the lens, but I brushed it very lightly with my finger, and it's not on the outer lens.
Absolutely no issue with image quality....I was looking for it.
I've attached a picture, if you zoom in you should be able to see what I'm talking about...Lot's of little spots.
Also, what's the best method for cleaning the lens?
Leave the lens alone. Don't touch. You already said you can't see anything when viewing the screen. Best not to try to fix something that is not broken.
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post #3949 of 5062 Old 12-07-2017, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by snave8 View Post
Just to be clear, the cluster of "spots" are on the inside of the lens.
OK, that's different, but if you don't see them on your image, don't worry about it. Do NOT try to fix that yourself.


Dust particles on your lens is just a given unless you can encase it in an incubator

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post #3950 of 5062 Old 12-07-2017, 01:04 PM
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Just to be clear, the cluster of "spots" are on the inside of the lens.
That is common. No real way around it.

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post #3951 of 5062 Old 12-07-2017, 01:14 PM
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That is common. No real way around it.
Thanks for the replies.
I was hoping it was normal.
Now I left a tiny fingerprint on the lens. I have a new camera lens microfiber cloth. How do you activate the manual lens cover opener? The manual says there's a button on top (ceiling mounted), I feel an indentation but no "button"
Is it like a reset switch where you press it in with a paper clip or something?

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post #3952 of 5062 Old 12-07-2017, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by snave8 View Post
Thanks for the replies.
I was hoping it was normal.
Now I left a tiny fingerprint on the lens. I have a new camera lens microfiber cloth. How do you activate the manual lens cover opener? The manual says there's a button on top (ceiling mounted), I feel an indentation but no "button"
Is it like a reset switch where you press it in with a paper clip or something?
Just carefully wipe it with your cloth while the PJ is on, applying as little pressure as possible to get the fingerprint off.

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post #3953 of 5062 Old 12-07-2017, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by snave8 View Post
Thanks for the replies.
I was hoping it was normal.
Now I left a tiny fingerprint on the lens. I have a new camera lens microfiber cloth. How do you activate the manual lens cover opener? The manual says there's a button on top (ceiling mounted), I feel an indentation but no "button"
Is it like a reset switch where you press it in with a paper clip or something?
There is an option in the service menu to leave the cover open.

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post #3954 of 5062 Old 12-09-2017, 01:53 PM
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I need some help from those of you have matched up their pj with the Oppo UDP-203, which I think is quite a few of you. I got mine yesterday and connected things this afternoon, connecting the Oppo into my Marantz 8802A and then the processor sends things to my RS-520. 1080p looks spectacular, as it did with my UDP-103, but the reason I did this was for 4K, and that looks completely washed out. The Oppo recognizes the HDR and sends it on through as such, and I set the picture mode to HDR on the projector. I'm obviously doing something wrong because the color is really weak. Thoughts and/or suggestions PLEASE? I was really excited with the picture in 1080p, but really disappointed in what I'm seeing so far with HDR. I know this must be fixable, just have no idea how to fix it. Thanks
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post #3955 of 5062 Old 12-10-2017, 07:18 AM
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I need some help from those of you have matched up their pj with the Oppo UDP-203, which I think is quite a few of you. I got mine yesterday and connected things this afternoon, connecting the Oppo into my Marantz 8802A and then the processor sends things to my RS-520. 1080p looks spectacular, as it did with my UDP-103, but the reason I did this was for 4K, and that looks completely washed out. The Oppo recognizes the HDR and sends it on through as such, and I set the picture mode to HDR on the projector. I'm obviously doing something wrong because the color is really weak. Thoughts and/or suggestions PLEASE? I was really excited with the picture in 1080p, but really disappointed in what I'm seeing so far with HDR. I know this must be fixable, just have no idea how to fix it. Thanks

Something is wrong if you have to select HDR manually on your RS520. It should switch to HDR automatically when it senses HDR. That suggests to me that something is amiss upstream from the projector. Are you using Certified Premium HDMI cables throughout your system? Is there a 4K mode setting in your receiver?
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post #3956 of 5062 Old 12-10-2017, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by EllisGJ View Post
Something is wrong if you have to select HDR manually on your RS520. It should switch to HDR automatically when it senses HDR. That suggests to me that something is amiss upstream from the projector. Are you using Certified Premium HDMI cables throughout your system? Is there a 4K mode setting in your receiver?
Thanks. I thought about the processor as well. I need to get into its manual and see if I'm missing something. My cables are certified premium so I think I'm ok there, but you never know. I may try to bypass the processor once, and go directly into the pj from the Oppo to test. See what happens.
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post #3957 of 5062 Old 12-12-2017, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by EllisGJ View Post
Something is wrong if you have to select HDR manually on your RS520. It should switch to HDR automatically when it senses HDR. That suggests to me that something is amiss upstream from the projector. Are you using Certified Premium HDMI cables throughout your system? Is there a 4K mode setting in your receiver?
Actually, my 520 is recognizing the HDR signal, and switching automatically to "HDR," but I realized that the 15' cable going from the 8802a to the 520 is not premium certified, in fact its several years old, so maybe that's the issue? However, I thought that in the digital world either it works (you get a picture) or it doesn't work (you don't get a picture). I didn't think that there is an in between, in my case, a washed out looking picture. Am I wrong?
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post #3958 of 5062 Old 12-12-2017, 11:04 AM
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Actually, my 520 is recognizing the HDR signal, and switching automatically to "HDR," but I realized that the 15' cable going from the 8802a to the 520 is not premium certified, in fact its several years old, so maybe that's the issue? However, I thought that in the digital world either it works (you get a picture) or it doesn't work (you don't get a picture). I didn't think that there is an in between, in my case, a washed out looking picture. Am I wrong?
If I were you, I would immediately replace that 15' cable with a Premium Certified cable. I'm willing to bet that will solve your problem.

The experts here can comment, but I believe the symptoms you described are consistent with a failing HDMI cable (in this case, failing because it can't handle the bandwidth requirements). Quick Google searching revealed this type of feedback: "The most common problems are no picture, a fuzzy picture, a discolored picture, an intermittent picture and poor screen resolution."
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Last edited by EllisGJ; 12-12-2017 at 11:08 AM.
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post #3959 of 5062 Old 12-12-2017, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by korkster View Post
Actually, my 520 is recognizing the HDR signal, and switching automatically to "HDR," but I realized that the 15' cable going from the 8802a to the 520 is not premium certified, in fact its several years old, so maybe that's the issue? However, I thought that in the digital world either it works (you get a picture) or it doesn't work (you don't get a picture). I didn't think that there is an in between, in my case, a washed out looking picture. Am I wrong?
Not with 4K/UHD can be tricky. I would just replace the older cable with a certified 4K one. Monoprice has them for a very good price. I have used nothing but 4K certified cables from Monoprice (none of my runs are more than 20') with zero issues. And this is across Oppo 203, Samsung 8000, Denon 4K receiver, Roku 4K streaming device, Xbox 1S, etc.
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post #3960 of 5062 Old 12-12-2017, 11:52 AM
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Sounds like a plan, gentlemen. I have ordered a 15' certified premium high speed cable from Monoprice. Hoping that this will do the trick. Would be a nice, easy fix if that's the case. Fingers crossed. Thanks very much for your thoughts!
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