Official JVC RS520/RS620 (X7500/X9500) Owner's Thread - Page 134 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3991 of 5062 Old 12-19-2017, 01:05 PM
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that's about half the price i paid here in Europe for the 50ft.

- juras -
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post #3992 of 5062 Old 12-20-2017, 04:01 AM
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finally got my screen up and running.

wow is all i can say to the image - got a x7500 discounted as end of line (did not want to pay the extra £1000 for a X7900 ).

my previous projector was a Panasonic AE6000 (so pannys top of the range a couple of years ago)

the JVC is noticeably superior (even my wife perked up when seeing the image).

i have not tried any UHD bluerays yet but even standard 1080P films look far crisper than what they did on my previous projector. In fact even though i do not have a light controlled room the image on the screen was just as crisp as my Panasonic 4K C802 TV (i have the screen over the TV so could compare). My last projector always seemed a little washed out compared to the TV image but not so with the JVC.

the image just seemed nicer than the panasonic projector - more real and with a weird sense of depth. my wife asked if it was in 3D without glasses when we had on blue plannet on uhd

anyway very happy so far.

i have a couple of queeries

1. the eshift option always seems permanently on - is that because i am only feeding the projector 4k sources
2. is there a preference on the auto iris ie auto 1 or auto 2

i will eventually buy a spyder to calibrate the projector - is there an idiots guide to doing this task.

3. i also seem to have avoided the CMD / latency bug (probably as my unit has not had the CMD fix )
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post #3993 of 5062 Old 12-20-2017, 05:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Javs View Post
No.
Ok, thanks
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post #3994 of 5062 Old 12-20-2017, 06:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FGEvans View Post

i have a couple of queeries

1. the eshift option always seems permanently on - is that because i am only feeding the projector 4k sources
2. is there a preference on the auto iris ie auto 1 or auto 2

i will eventually buy a spyder to calibrate the projector - is there an idiots guide to doing this task.

3. i also seem to have avoided the CMD / latency bug (probably as my unit has not had the CMD fix )
To change e-shift the projector can't be receiving an active signal. You can switch to an unused HDMI input change and then switch back. Personally I leave it on for 1080 material as I find it reduces aliasing. Others choose to turn it off as they like the sharper look.

Auto 1 uses a combination of gamma shift and the dynamic iris. Auto 2 uses only the iris. I prefer auto 2 as I feel it's more natural. Just keep in mind that the iris function is a bit odd. You must set it to manual to set the first iris, which will controls the overall light output, and then change it to auto 1/2 to engage the dynamic iris (which is a second separate iris). Even though the manual setting is grayed out when changing to auto 1/2 it is still functioning and taming the peak brightness.

If you don't intend to use CMD I wouldn't worry about it. I don't like frame interpolation (the soap opera effect) and thus have not sent mine in. I'm more likely to try gaming on it at some point so I'm glad I didn't send it in.
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post #3995 of 5062 Old 12-20-2017, 08:27 AM
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Hi everyone,
Long time reader and great info everywhere.

I was considering new jvc in a light controlled dedicated blacked out theater(except carpet which i will get soon). I currently have a rs 46.

I am wondering would i see a good enough diff to get a dla 620 versus a dla 520. The 620 is going to be 25-30% more.

I primarily watch movies bluray but want to get into uhd 4k and hdr. Regular tv is not watched here.

Sorry if this question has been asked before

Ajay
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post #3996 of 5062 Old 12-20-2017, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by docajay View Post
Hi everyone,
Long time reader and great info everywhere.

I was considering new jvc in a light controlled dedicated blacked out theater(except carpet which i will get soon). I currently have a rs 46.

I am wondering would i see a good enough diff to get a dla 620 versus a dla 520. The 620 is going to be 25-30% more.

I primarily watch movies bluray but want to get into uhd 4k and hdr. Regular tv is not watched here.

Sorry if this question has been asked before

Ajay
It's a tough call. The RS6x0 lineup uses hand selected parts. But it can still have some variance. Is it likely to put out a noticeably better picture than the RS520? I'd say yes. Worth the premium? That's the tough call. For me I could find other places to spend the difference that I feel would make a bigger impact to my viewing experience. I'm thrilled with my RS520 but have no illusions that a RS620 isn't going to be better. I guess it boils down to if you can swing the RS620 without killing your budget, why not? If it's a big stretch and you could really use the funds elsewhere the RS520 is going to look fantastic and the differences probably wouldn't standout unless you did a side by side comparison with the RS620.

P.S. I should add I upgraded from an RS46. You will see a nice bump in your 1080 viewing, but UHD will be stunning
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post #3997 of 5062 Old 12-20-2017, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docajay View Post
Hi everyone,
Long time reader and great info everywhere.

I was considering new jvc in a light controlled dedicated blacked out theater(except carpet which i will get soon). I currently have a rs 46.

I am wondering would i see a good enough diff to get a dla 620 versus a dla 520. The 620 is going to be 25-30% more.

I primarily watch movies bluray but want to get into uhd 4k and hdr. Regular tv is not watched here.

Sorry if this question has been asked before

Ajay
I would contact your dealer to check on prices -- or AVS - eg [email protected].
I would be tempted to get a 540 instead of 620 (or 520).
I have the 520 and it is great, but I think 540 has a few updates.

Mike
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HT: Oppo UDP-203 -> Lumagen RadiancePro 4446 {18 GHz input x2 & 18 GHz output x1 cards} - "new (112818 FW)" 18 GHz microcode - parallel outs to --> [Audio: Denon 5308CI] --> [Video: JVC RS520 FW v30.1]
HT Details: link
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post #3998 of 5062 Old 12-20-2017, 11:36 AM
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Thanks for the quick replies! I will shoot mike an email and see which way i will go.
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post #3999 of 5062 Old 12-20-2017, 11:52 AM
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Official JVC RS520/RS620 (X7500/X9500) Owner's Thread

Guys: what you do first? Arve curves or Autocal? Spyder5 Express will perform exactly the same as Pro or Elite using Autocal? Thanks!!
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post #4000 of 5062 Old 12-20-2017, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FGEvans View Post
i have a couple of queeries

1. the eshift option always seems permanently on - is that because i am only feeding the projector 4k sources
2. is there a preference on the auto iris ie auto 1 or auto 2

i will eventually buy a spyder to calibrate the projector - is there an idiots guide to doing this task.

3. i also seem to have avoided the CMD / latency bug (probably as my unit has not had the CMD fix )

Depending on your light control, most set the iris around -8 and use Auto 2 for standard blu ray. In fact, always use Auto 2. For HDR, open the iris to 0, and use Auto 2. (This only matters if you get a HDFury Linker/Vertex; otherwise, the iris doesn't function in HDR.)


I also recommend a professional calibration. Chad B is as good as they come.


E-shift is up to you. I turn it on. I don't use CMD at all.


You need to get The Revenant in UHD. You'll crap your knickers over that picture in HDR.

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post #4001 of 5062 Old 12-21-2017, 07:30 AM
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4K Motion Blur/Judder question

In the 3 weeks I've had my 520, I've watched several 4K movies, numerous Blurays and a few 3D's so far. Everything for the most part has looked great, with the exception being that the 520 shows much more imperfections in the source than my 9 year old HD1 did.
Last night I watched "Moonlight" in 4K. I had previously turned off the CMD, as I noticed that with it on, even set to "low", I was getting a little of the "soap opera effect". I ended up having to turn it back on, as the motion blur/judder in certain scenes was terrible. In fact, I've never experienced it this bad with any movie I've ever watched. With the CMD set to "low" it was acceptable. Set to "high" it was completely gone.
Obviously the the CMD direct button on the remote is there for a reason but my question is.......Is a 4K source more susceptible to blur/judder on the 520 (or any projector for that matter), or was it this particular disc that was giving the projector a hard time? I've never noticed any blur/judder on any source I've watched other than Moonlight. There was also an abnormal amount of grain/noise throughout the movie.
Others have raved about Moonlight's picture but I wasn't impressed at all.

Mark
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post #4002 of 5062 Old 12-21-2017, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by snave8 View Post
In the 3 weeks I've had my 520, I've watched several 4K movies, numerous Blurays and a few 3D's so far. Everything for the most part has looked great, with the exception being that the 520 shows much more imperfections in the source than my 9 year old HD1 did.
Last night I watched "Moonlight" in 4K. I had previously turned off the CMD, as I noticed that with it on, even set to "low", I was getting a little of the "soap opera effect". I ended up having to turn it back on, as the motion blur/judder in certain scenes was terrible. In fact, I've never experienced it this bad with any movie I've ever watched. With the CMD set to "low" it was acceptable. Set to "high" it was completely gone.
Obviously the the CMD direct button on the remote is there for a reason but my question is.......Is a 4K source more susceptible to blur/judder on the 520 (or any projector for that matter), or was it this particular disc that was giving the projector a hard time? I've never noticed any blur/judder on any source I've watched other than Moonlight. There was also an abnormal amount of grain/noise throughout the movie.
Others have raved about Moonlight's picture but I wasn't impressed at all.
I haven't seen that particular disc, but I haven't noticed 4K being more or less susceptible to motion artifacts. And I've updated a fair amount of titles to 4K (I never use CMD either). As far as noise check the image enhancements. You likely want NR at 0, Smoothing at 0 and Enhance at 2-3. The defaults will add some noise. Also, depending on how that particular disc was shot it may have more blur than other films.

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post #4003 of 5062 Old 12-21-2017, 12:35 PM
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Just curious.. Has anyone upgraded from the 620 to the 640? Any benefit?

Also, when watching 1:85 on a 2:35 screen, how do i align it properly? Do i use the Shift/zoom method until i get an image then save it ?

Thank you...

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post #4004 of 5062 Old 12-21-2017, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Applemike68 View Post
Just curious.. Has anyone upgraded from the 620 to the 640? Any benefit?

Also, when watching 1:85 on a 2:35 screen, how do i align it properly? Do i use the Shift/zoom method until i get an image then save it ?

Thank you...
From looking in the owners thread for the RS640/540 it seems like the main advantage would be functioning CMD with Low Latency. Right now the CMD fix on the RSx20 lineup introduces issues with Low Latency mode. So if you like CMD and are bothered by the banding that shows up in some scenes with the original software, the fix will make low latency mode unusable. However if you don't use CMD and do not have the fix performed low latency mode works fine. JVC is supposed to be working on a fix for this, but right now that's where we're at. Other differences e-shift 4 vs. e-shift 5 and a functioning DI with 4K material. The differences in e-shift are subtle and I wouldn't say it's worth taking the hit to trade up for it. The DI not working in 4K on the RSx20 lineup can be fixed with a HDFury Linker (~$200). If I was buying new and the price differential was small, the RS640 would be an easy pick. But since you're likely to take a decent hit on resale, I'd just stick with the RS620.

Yup you do exactly that with the 1.85:1 picture. You can either measure the distance from the alignment grid to the screen border or use a centralized point (I use the tweeter on the center) to center it. And then just save the memory position.

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post #4005 of 5062 Old 12-21-2017, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by jeahrens View Post
From looking in the owners thread for the RS640/540 it seems like the main advantage would be functioning CMD with Low Latency. Right now the CMD fix on the RSx20 lineup introduces issues with Low Latency mode. So if you like CMD and are bothered by the banding that shows up in some scenes with the original software, the fix will make low latency mode unusable. However if you don't use CMD and do not have the fix performed low latency mode works fine. JVC is supposed to be working on a fix for this, but right now that's where we're at. Other differences e-shift 4 vs. e-shift 5 and a functioning DI with 4K material. The differences in e-shift are subtle and I wouldn't say it's worth taking the hit to trade up for it. The DI not working in 4K on the RSx20 lineup can be fixed with a HDFury Linker (~$200). If I was buying new and the price differential was small, the RS640 would be an easy pick. But since you're likely to take a decent hit on resale, I'd just stick with the RS620.

Yup you do exactly that with the 1.85:1 picture. You can either measure the distance from the alignment grid to the screen border or use a centralized point (I use the tweeter on the center) to center it. And then just save the memory position.
Great explanation... I will keep my 620

Thanks again

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post #4006 of 5062 Old 12-22-2017, 11:24 PM
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The eshift after a few hours on my x5900 seems silent in operation but when turning it On there's a 1-2 second strange noise which is pretty loud, is this normal ?. Sounds a bit like putting a ruler off the edge of a table and twanging it..

Thanks.

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post #4007 of 5062 Old 12-23-2017, 03:07 AM
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I find the convergence of the panels is a bit off, now the pixel adjust mode for the 121 area's (11x11) is a great tool, but... the pattern JVC shows is not very well suited for these fine adjustments; the lines are too thick. I prefer a 1 pixel dot pattern to finetune. For example, if i adjust the cross using this pattern, as good as possible, and you return to select another area, in such a way that the dialog is now shown over the area you just adjusted, you can see at the dialog's fonts that it is not correct, it still needs some adjustment.

Is it possible to do the pixel adjust by area, using your own pattern? How do you guys get around this?

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post #4008 of 5062 Old 12-23-2017, 05:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panman40 View Post
The eshift after a few hours on my x5900 seems silent in operation but when turning it On there's a 1-2 second strange noise which is pretty loud, is this normal ?. Sounds a bit like putting a ruler off the edge of a table and twanging it..

Thanks.
My x990 has been quiet for almost a month, but then recently I have started getting eshift noise for 5-10 seconds and then it stops.
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post #4009 of 5062 Old 12-24-2017, 02:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panman40 View Post
The eshift after a few hours on my x5900 seems silent in operation but when turning it On there's a 1-2 second strange noise which is pretty loud, is this normal ?. Sounds a bit like putting a ruler off the edge of a table and twanging it..

Thanks.
I can hear E-shift noise too when I turn it off and on.

High pitched noise which I get used too quite quickly. Because it doesn't change when it's on.

But there is no loud noise when I turn it on.
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post #4010 of 5062 Old 12-24-2017, 02:25 AM
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A question about 3D and screen (maintaining) polarization.

I've picked up a RF-transmitter(PK-EM2) and I've ordered 2 expand x-105's.

My screen is a Lumene majestic 105"(white/ 1.0 gain I believe).

How big is the chance that I will have problems with polarization do you guys figure?.

I couldn't find any info on my specific screen on the subject.
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post #4011 of 5062 Old 12-24-2017, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Dimitri_ISF View Post
A question about 3D and screen (maintaining) polarization.

I've picked up a RF-transmitter(PK-EM2) and I've ordered 2 expand x-105's.

My screen is a Lumene majestic 105"(white/ 1.0 gain I believe).

How big is the chance that I will have problems with polarization do you guys figure?.

I couldn't find any info on my specific screen on the subject.
I have a 106" 1.0 gain Matt White screen and have no issues at all with xpand x105 lite and Samsung ssg3100 glasses, there's little to no polarisation so brightness is good even low lamp, if I turn my head 90 degrees there's a very slight increase in brightness but maybe 5% or so, I may look out for a cheap pair of Xpands optimised for jvc in the future but no rush.

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post #4012 of 5062 Old 12-24-2017, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by jowicrt View Post
I find the convergence of the panels is a bit off, now the pixel adjust mode for the 121 area's (11x11) is a great tool, but... the pattern JVC shows is not very well suited for these fine adjustments; the lines are too thick. I prefer a 1 pixel dot pattern to finetune. For example, if i adjust the cross using this pattern, as good as possible, and you return to select another area, in such a way that the dialog is now shown over the area you just adjusted, you can see at the dialog's fonts that it is not correct, it still needs some adjustment.

Is it possible to do the pixel adjust by area, using your own pattern? How do you guys get around this?
I'd avoid fine adjustments. Full pixel yes.
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post #4013 of 5062 Old 12-24-2017, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panman40 View Post
The eshift after a few hours on my x5900 seems silent in operation but when turning it On there's a 1-2 second strange noise which is pretty loud, is this normal ?. Sounds a bit like putting a ruler off the edge of a table and twanging it..

Thanks.
When I turn mine on, there are mechanical noises. During operation, there are the occasional "crack" from the plastic chassis when certain temperatures are reached. But nothing loud.
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post #4014 of 5062 Old 12-25-2017, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panman40 View Post
I have a 106" 1.0 gain Matt White screen and have no issues at all with xpand x105 lite and Samsung ssg3100 glasses, there's little to no polarisation so brightness is good even low lamp, if I turn my head 90 degrees there's a very slight increase in brightness but maybe 5% or so, I may look out for a cheap pair of Xpands optimised for jvc in the future but no rush.
Ok,

Tonight I borrowed some of the same glasses you mention, that came with a samsung 2011 tv.

But I can't seem to get them paired with the projector.

I have tried some side by side material and a 3D signal from my murideo, but I can't seem to get the glasses to work with the projector...but there can be several reasons for this at this point.

Is there a way to check if the PK-EM2 is sending a signal at all?.

Dimitri.
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post #4015 of 5062 Old 12-25-2017, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panman40 View Post
The eshift after a few hours on my x5900 seems silent in operation but when turning it On there's a 1-2 second strange noise which is pretty loud, is this normal ?. Sounds a bit like putting a ruler off the edge of a table and twanging it..

Thanks.
Yes, that is normal.
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post #4016 of 5062 Old 12-25-2017, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Dimitri_ISF View Post
Ok,

Tonight I borrowed some of the same glasses you mention, that came with a samsung 2011 tv.

But I can't seem to get them paired with the projector.

I have tried some side by side material and a 3D signal from my murideo, but I can't seem to get the glasses to work with the projector...but there can be several reasons for this at this point.

Is there a way to check if the PK-EM2 is sending a signal at all?.

Dimitri.
I'm not sure if you can tell the emitter is working or not without working glasses. Are you sure the glasses are RF type ?.

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post #4017 of 5062 Old 12-26-2017, 12:57 AM
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Originally Posted by panman40 View Post
I'm not sure if you can tell the emitter is working or not without working glasses. Are you sure the glasses are RF type ?.
I thought all the samsung glasses were RF, but I'm not 100% sure...

The expands won't come untill early jan.
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post #4018 of 5062 Old 12-26-2017, 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Dimitri_ISF View Post
I thought all the samsung glasses were RF, but I'm not 100% sure...

The expands won't come untill early jan.
I thought some early models were IR but maybe I'm wrong.

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post #4019 of 5062 Old 12-26-2017, 01:36 AM
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Originally Posted by panman40 View Post
I thought some early models were IR but maybe I'm wrong.
Should the projector switch into a 3D mode when it receives a 3D signal?, because mine just stays in the same picture mode.
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post #4020 of 5062 Old 12-26-2017, 08:40 AM
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yes it should

- juras -
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