Official JVC RS520/RS620 (X7500/X9500) Owner's Thread - Page 166 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4951 of 5034 Old 12-09-2018, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Javs View Post
Your gamma baseline for High lamp mode is corrupt, you need to Autocal Gamma in high lamp.

They have different tables for high and low lamp. Looks like somebody ran Autocal and interrupted it from completely properly in high lamp.

Factory reset is not going to fix that, an Autocal session is required.

I am 90% sure this is the problem.

Hey Javs, just a quick update, you were right an Autocal sorted out the issue!


Cheers
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post #4952 of 5034 Old 12-10-2018, 03:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
NF means “no filter”. You gain probably 10-20% in brightness, at the expense of slightly more limited gamut (similar to the RS420). You can still use the same curves.

wow I want to try this.. Do you use yours without the filter? where can I get the instructions it's for a 520 and 640 hopefully its not complicated i hate uploading things to the projector but I always manage to figure it out..
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post #4953 of 5034 Old 12-10-2018, 05:12 AM
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Originally Posted by jorgebetancourt View Post
wow I want to try this.. Do you use yours without the filter? where can I get the instructions it's for a 520 and 640 hopefully its not complicated i hate uploading things to the projector but I always manage to figure it out..
You upload the custom profiles using the JVC autocal software (no Spyder required). The instructions come with the software. Note that separate versions of the software are required for the 520 and 640, but the same profile can be used.
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post #4954 of 5034 Old 12-11-2018, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
NF means “no filter”. You gain probably 10-20% in brightness, at the expense of slightly more limited gamut (similar to the RS420). You can still use the same curves.

HI Dominic Im about to do this in the next few days.. Once I do the upload do I need to do anything else? Does it raise the blacks and do I need to adjust bbo to javs curv's?

Then I think I read somewhere yesterday if you keep the iris the same it raises the blacks so you have to close it more?
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post #4955 of 5034 Old 12-11-2018, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by jorgebetancourt View Post
HI Dominic Im about to do this in the next few days.. Once I do the upload do I need to do anything else? Does it raise the blacks and do I need to adjust bbo to javs curv's?

Then I think I read somewhere yesterday if you keep the iris the same it raises the blacks so you have to close it more?
A brighter image, whether by using a new lamp, High Lamp mode or a brighter profile, will raise the black level proportionately. Only you can decide whether would to close the iris, which of course will dim the overall image, not just the blacks.
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Last edited by Dominic Chan; 12-13-2018 at 02:09 PM.
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post #4956 of 5034 Old 12-13-2018, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by javeryh View Post
My JVC RS520 just shut down in the middle of a movie and I can't get it to turn back on. The unit doesn't feel hot but I have noticed that the fan has been making a TON of noise to the point where it is distracting. Anyone know what is going on? I've had this thing for about a year but only probably use it 5-10 hours or less per week on average.
Electronics can fail at anytime, even after a few hours of use. Did you get it figured out? Did you end up calling JVC ?
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post #4957 of 5034 Old 12-28-2018, 06:13 PM
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I'm having an unusual problem with ESPN tonight. I get bars on the sides, not 4x3, just a little bit. Recorded shows (tivo) don't from other channels. I don't recall seeing this before.

I am running through a Denon x6200 and the output was on 2 displays, the projector showed the bars, the tv didn't. Also another Tivo mini in another room didn't show the bars on, both were 1080p tvs.

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post #4958 of 5034 Old 12-30-2018, 07:56 AM
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Hi Everyone,

I am having some strange lens shift behavior. My RS620 is ceiling mounted with lens at 10' from the screen wall with lens height about top of screen (low ceilings). For the past 18 months I have been projecting onto a 92" screen and used a small amount of lens shift to center the image on the screen with zero issues. The image never moved once lens shift was set.

I just upgraded to a 100" screen and so used a combination of lens shift and zoom to re-center the image on the screen. The top of the screen is about 2" lower than it was before. Every time I fire up the PJ I find that the lens shift has "slipped" and the image has risen straight up by 1". This is apparent whether the PJ is cold (just started) or warm (running for 30 mins). So every time I start the PJ now I use lens shift to drop the image straight down 1" and it is good. It seems odd that every time I start the PJ the image has risen by 1".

With my prior setup I had no issue with the PJ holding lens shift. I don't believe I am anywhere near the maximum shift - although I am close to max zoom at 100" at 10'. Should I expect lens shift to drift at max zoom?

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
David

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JVC RS620 | 100" Stewart ST100 Screen | Panasonic UB900 | Roku | HDFury Integral 2
Dolby Atmos 7.3.4 | Denon 4300 | miniDSP HD | Outlaw M2200 L/C/R monoblocks
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post #4959 of 5034 Old 12-30-2018, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgkula View Post
So every time I start the PJ now I use lens shift to drop the image straight down 1" and it is good.
Some people suggested that the lens creep can be minimized by ending your adjustments with the image going up. In your case it means first overshooting the downward adjustment and then shifting it back up. Give it a try and see if it makes any difference.
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post #4960 of 5034 Old 12-30-2018, 10:49 AM
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Just tried that - thank you. Will see how the lens shift looks tomorrow morning.

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JVC RS620 | 100" Stewart ST100 Screen | Panasonic UB900 | Roku | HDFury Integral 2
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post #4961 of 5034 Old 12-31-2018, 10:34 AM
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Maybe helped a bit. Dropped 1/2 inch instead of full inch. So I will set it high so it drops to fit.

----------------------------------------------------------------------
JVC RS620 | 100" Stewart ST100 Screen | Panasonic UB900 | Roku | HDFury Integral 2
Dolby Atmos 7.3.4 | Denon 4300 | miniDSP HD | Outlaw M2200 L/C/R monoblocks
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post #4962 of 5034 Old 01-05-2019, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by dgkula View Post
Maybe helped a bit. Dropped 1/2 inch instead of full inch. So I will set it high so it drops to fit.
I may be having the same issue. However, in my case, I always notice about a 1/2" to 1" drop over approximately a 4 hour period after I power on the projector. Right now, the image is perfectly aligned with my screen, but it was about an inch high when I powered it on 4 hours ago. This is very consistent, and very noticeable when using my PC (less noticeable when watching TV or movies).

Also, it DOES seem to be related to being warmed up in my case. I just turned it off and back on, and the image position is fine. But turning it on cold causes the image to be shifted up.

Anyone else having this issue?

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Last edited by tygraham1; 01-05-2019 at 04:12 PM.
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post #4963 of 5034 Old 01-07-2019, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
… The effect of gamma droop is clearly visible. I can correct the user profile by running autocal, but cannot do the same for the built in profile.
I think my question is similar to this info a way back in this thread but the discussion died out and I did not find an answer. I have the RS520. I recently did an autocal for Gamma only. I did Low and High Lamp Standard Color Profile - Normal Gamma. Then I did Low and High lamp selecting the BT.2020 color profile so filter in use - Normal Gamma.

I assumed these 4 combinations needed their own calibration. Is this correct? If I use a custom gamma curve (Arve) for HDR I think it is covered by the above calibration? Also is the SDR BT.2020 with Gamma 2.4 I use with Panasonic ub820 tone mapping covered by above?

If I missed something or it is incorrect to do the "built in" BT.2020 profile this way please help me out with the correct answer.

Thanks
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post #4964 of 5034 Old 01-07-2019, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fingersdlp View Post
I think my question is similar to this info a way back in this thread but the discussion died out and I did not find an answer. I have the RS520. I recently did an autocal for Gamma only. I did Low and High Lamp Standard Color Profile - Normal Gamma. Then I did Low and High lamp selecting the BT.2020 color profile so filter in use - Normal Gamma.

I assumed these 4 combinations needed their own calibration. Is this correct? If I use a custom gamma curve (Arve) for HDR I think it is covered by the above calibration? Also is the SDR BT.2020 with Gamma 2.4 I use with Panasonic ub820 tone mapping covered by above?

If I missed something or it is incorrect to do the "built in" BT.2020 profile this way please help me out with the correct answer.

Thanks
I had problems with gamma calibration of BT.2020 on the X570/RS420. One possible explanation was that the preloaded colour profile was defined using the filter, but autocal cannot store the calibration as it was run without the filter (just my theory).

To see if your Picture Modes are calibrated, simply run autocal in “Log only” mode using Normal gamma. A straight line would indicate it’s calibrated.

EDIT: I created a BT2020NF profile and it calibrated fine.
EDIT2: Different curves are needed for your four combinations as the peak nits would be quite different.
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Last edited by Dominic Chan; 01-07-2019 at 10:47 AM.
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post #4965 of 5034 Old 01-07-2019, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
I had problems with gamma calibration of BT.2020 on the X570/RS420. One possible explanation was that the preloaded colour profile was defined using the filter, but autocal cannot store the calibration as it was run without the filter (just my theory).

To see if your Picture Modes are calibrated, simply run autocal in “Log only” mode using Normal gamma. A straight line would indicate it’s calibrated.


What do you mean autocal cannot store the calibration as it was run without filter? You just ran it with the filter using bt2020??? I still haven’t double checked my x770 but swear it holds calibration of normal gamma with bt2020 (filter in place) and high lamp


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post #4966 of 5034 Old 01-07-2019, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by tswire View Post
What do you mean autocal cannot store the calibration as it was run without filter? You just ran it with the filter using bt2020??? I still haven’t double checked my x770 but swear it holds calibration of normal gamma with bt2020 (filter in place) and high lamp


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The X570 does not have the filter.
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post #4967 of 5034 Old 01-07-2019, 11:15 AM
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The X570 does not have the filter.


Gotcha. That makes sense then. Thanks


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post #4968 of 5034 Old 01-07-2019, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by dgkula View Post
So every time I start the PJ now I use lens shift to drop the image straight down 1" and it is good.
Some people suggested that the lens creep can be minimized by ending your adjustments with the image going up. In your case it means first overshooting the downward adjustment and then shifting it back up. Give it a try and see if it makes any difference.
I just suddenly started having this lens shift downward issue this weekend when I passed 2000 hours on my original bulb.

I hope your suggestion works. Could bulb life be involved in this somehow? I have the rs620.

Video: JVC RS620/X9500 projector, Stewart ST130 screen, Panasonic ub820 UHD player
Audio: Anthem AVM60 preamp, Anthem MCA525 amp, B&K Reference 125.7 amp
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post #4969 of 5034 Old 01-07-2019, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Erod View Post
I just suddenly started having this lens shift downward issue this weekend when I passed 2000 hours on my original bulb.

I hope your suggestion works. Could bulb life be involved in this somehow? I have the rs620.
I have the RS620 as well with 750+ hours on the bulb. Setting it an inch high so it settles to fit the screen seems to work for the most part.
Really shouldn't expect this with the top of the line model ...
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
JVC RS620 | 100" Stewart ST100 Screen | Panasonic UB900 | Roku | HDFury Integral 2
Dolby Atmos 7.3.4 | Denon 4300 | miniDSP HD | Outlaw M2200 L/C/R monoblocks
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post #4970 of 5034 Old 01-08-2019, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by dgkula View Post
I have the RS620 as well with 750+ hours on the bulb. Setting it an inch high so it settles to fit the screen seems to work for the most part.
Really shouldn't expect this with the top of the line model ...
Watched the entire college national championship game last night with no issues.

Perhaps it worked to move the shift up as my last adjustment as was suggested. Hope so.

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post #4971 of 5034 Old 01-08-2019, 06:54 AM
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I'd like to confirm here that I have things setup preset-wise properly for my JVC working with the tone mapping conversions in madvr.

It should be noted I have a scope screen (138" diag), hence the two sizes each for SDR and HDR below.

I have 4 presets in my JVC named and used as follows (these are all in the custom slots):

SDR 16:9
-use this for any 16:9 SDR content from my TV receiver or via madvr HTPC
-BT709; iris at -9; gamma=normal; low lamp
-get about 17ftL measured off screen

SDR 2.35
-use this for any SDR content requiring me to zoom out from 16:9, from my TV receiver or via madvr HTPC. Also watch 16:9 sports in this mode usually as often have some lights on in the room
-BT709; iris at -4; gamma=normal; low lamp
-get about 16ftL measured off screen

HDR 16:9
-use this for any 16:9 HDR content, mainly from the madvr HTPC, but also use this mode for zoomed out HDR content when I'd like to preserve my bulb but still get the benefits of WCG
-BT2020; iris at 0; gamma=normal; low lamp
-get 110 nits when zoomed in; get about 80 nits measured off screen when zoomed out


HDR 2.35
-use this for any HDR content larger than 16:9 when I also want to get as much brightness for HDR as possible. usually this is used only when guests are over and we are watching HDR content
-BT2020; iris at 0; gamma=normal; high lamp
-get about 97 nits measured off screen

Tone mapping via madvr of course is only happening on the last two modes.

Does this seem to be a good setup? Anyone using different config that may be better? Am I missing anything?
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post #4972 of 5034 Old 01-08-2019, 08:33 AM
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I sold my JVC 750 and went to a 77 OLED (also selling my DA Lite Fast Fold screen). I know it won’t be popular here, but after living with the JVC for a couple of years, I honestly consider the move to be an upgrade (particularly for 4k HDR material). Yes, the screen is smaller (even moved much closer to the LP), but the way the colors pop on the OLED and the clarity make it appear as though I’m looking through a window. One of the things that promoted my decision was a YouTube video by Andrew Robinson, proclaiming front projection effectively dead with the advent of HDR. At first I was dismissive of his views, but found myself giving it more thought. I now believe panels are the future of Home Theater. LG is introducing an 88” 8 k OLED, and once that becomes affordable, I think it’d be tough for front projection to compete.
Please understand I’ve invested hours and thousands in this technology (including a ChadB calibration, and hours of research (including this thread), and for me, it was the right move. I mention it here in case anyone is considering the purchase of another projector to present another side of the current state of the art in display technology and present a possible alternative.


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post #4973 of 5034 Old 01-08-2019, 08:55 AM
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I sold my JVC 750 and went to a 77 OLED (also selling my DA Lite Fast Fold screen). I know it won’t be popular here, but after living with the JVC for a couple of years, I honestly consider the move to be an upgrade (particularly for 4k HDR material). Yes, the screen is smaller (even moved much closer to the LP), but the way the colors pop on the OLED and the clarity make it appear as though I’m looking through a window. One of the things that promoted my decision was a YouTube video by Andrew Robinson, proclaiming front projection effectively dead with the advent of HDR. At first I was dismissive of his views, but found myself giving it more thought. I now believe panels are the future of Home Theater. LG is introducing an 88” 8 k OLED, and once that becomes affordable, I think it’d be tough for front projection to compete.
Please understand I’ve invested hours and thousands in this technology (including a ChadB calibration, and hours of research (including this thread), and for me, it was the right move. I mention it here in case anyone is considering the purchase of another projector to present another side of the current state of the art in display technology and present a possible alternative.
It's all a matter of what has the most impact on your personal watching of the content you enjoy. If one is after the absolute best implementation of HDR, then an OLED is going to be your best choice, at the expense of limited display size. If total immersion is more important to a person, and is willing to sacrifice some of the visual impact of OLED, then a Projector is the best choice.

I have a 75" Sony XBR900E in my family room (not quite your 77" set, and with picture quality not quite that of an OLED), and HDR is awesome. But if I'm going to watch a movie, especially a scope aspect ratio one, then I'm heading into my theater room to view it on a 160" diagonal scope screen, with my JVC RS400. I am aware that the visual impact isn't quite the same in terms of contrast, highlights, dynamic image, etc., but for me, that trade-off is acceptable.

The vastly superior sound system in my theater room also contributes to the more immersive experience, but the screen size, for me, makes me feel like I have a regular movie theater in my home.

But I fully understand how others would choose differently. One isn't right, one isn't wrong. Enjoy your OLED!
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post #4974 of 5034 Old 01-08-2019, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by DLCPhoto View Post
It's all a matter of what has the most impact on your personal watching of the content you enjoy. If one is after the absolute best implementation of HDR, then an OLED is going to be your best choice, at the expense of limited display size. If total immersion is more important to a person, and is willing to sacrifice some of the visual impact of OLED, then a Projector is the best choice.



I have a 75" Sony XBR900E in my family room (not quite your 77" set, and with picture quality not quite that of an OLED), and HDR is awesome. But if I'm going to watch a movie, especially a scope aspect ratio one, then I'm heading into my theater room to view it on a 160" diagonal scope screen, with my JVC RS400. I am aware that the visual impact isn't quite the same in terms of contrast, highlights, dynamic image, etc., but for me, that trade-off is acceptable.



The vastly superior sound system in my theater room also contributes to the more immersive experience, but the screen size, for me, makes me feel like I have a regular movie theater in my home.



But I fully understand how others would choose differently. One isn't right, one isn't wrong. Enjoy your OLED!


Thanks for the thoughtful response. You, sir, have the best of both worlds! If space and finances permitted, I’d also do something similar.


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post #4975 of 5034 Old 01-09-2019, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Sittler27 View Post
I'd like to confirm here that I have things setup preset-wise properly for my JVC working with the tone mapping conversions in madvr.

It should be noted I have a scope screen (138" diag), hence the two sizes each for SDR and HDR below.

I have 4 presets in my JVC named and used as follows (these are all in the custom slots):

SDR 16:9
-use this for any 16:9 SDR content from my TV receiver or via madvr HTPC
-BT709; iris at -9; gamma=normal; low lamp
-get about 17ftL measured off screen

SDR 2.35
-use this for any SDR content requiring me to zoom out from 16:9, from my TV receiver or via madvr HTPC. Also watch 16:9 sports in this mode usually as often have some lights on in the room
-BT709; iris at -4; gamma=normal; low lamp
-get about 16ftL measured off screen

HDR 16:9
-use this for any 16:9 HDR content, mainly from the madvr HTPC, but also use this mode for zoomed out HDR content when I'd like to preserve my bulb but still get the benefits of WCG
-BT2020; iris at 0; gamma=normal; low lamp
-get 110 nits when zoomed in; get about 80 nits measured off screen when zoomed out


HDR 2.35
-use this for any HDR content larger than 16:9 when I also want to get as much brightness for HDR as possible. usually this is used only when guests are over and we are watching HDR content
-BT2020; iris at 0; gamma=normal; high lamp
-get about 97 nits measured off screen

Tone mapping via madvr of course is only happening on the last two modes.

Does this seem to be a good setup? Anyone using different config that may be better? Am I missing anything?
Can anyone comment on this?
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post #4976 of 5034 Old 01-12-2019, 06:21 PM
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Thanks for the thoughtful response. You, sir, have the best of both worlds! If space and finances permitted, I’d also do something similar.


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I just went from a 92" 16:9 screen to a 100" 16:9 screen - big upgrade in terms of immersion sitting at 9.5 feet from the screen. Until a 100" OLED is affordable I'm good with my RS620

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JVC RS620 | 100" Stewart ST100 Screen | Panasonic UB900 | Roku | HDFury Integral 2
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post #4977 of 5034 Old 01-14-2019, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by dgkula View Post
I just went from a 92" 16:9 screen to a 100" 16:9 screen - big upgrade in terms of immersion sitting at 9.5 feet from the screen. Until a 100" OLED is affordable I'm good with my RS620
I have a 92" pull down with a tv behind it. I have a new 106" fixed frame out in the garage that I would like to use, but I can't figure out a place to put it when I want to use the tv.
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post #4978 of 5034 Old 01-15-2019, 11:50 AM
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I just recently traded my Epson 5040ub up to a x770.

Some quick questions

1) I am seeing a lot more noise or grain. I see it on all sources from Apple TV 4k with HDR on or off and with my UBK90 UHD 4K player. Strong examples would be during Star Wars when they are on the planet evacuating. Even with cartoons on something like a blue sky that was always solid on the epson it has this grain/noise. (Not sure what the proper wording is for it.) I have adjusted the enhancement on MPC from 0 - 5 with no improvement.

2) I thought the THX mode was for HDR but if try using it it looks horrible with HDR and great with SDR so it is clearly not on mine. Was this changed? Have only got to page 30 of this thread so far so that may of been in the firmware update.

3) Black floor and colour saturation do not seem as impressive as I was expecting. I have used some of the settings that I have found on the recent pages here and the x40 recommendations. These did help substantially.

I guess my biggest concern is the grain or noise. Any feed back?

I do have a Spyder 5 that got here today so I will be autocaling. After I get back from my trip I will go ahead and try custom gammas but this will not really help with my biggest concern.

Thanks in advance,
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post #4979 of 5034 Old 01-16-2019, 12:49 PM
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There are two custom color temp settings and the numeric ones like 6500K, 7500K etc. In my custom temp settings I have 6500K selected as the correction value. If I select the named 6500K color temp directly and adjust its Gain/Offsets will this adjustment carry over to the two custom settings that have 6500K listed as their correction value?

I want to have a 3rd custom color temp that only is applied when the 6500K is selected directly and not have it alter the other Color Temps that might list 6500K as the preset.

Can I do this or do changes made to the 6500K setting carry over to other color temps when 6500K is listed as the correction? Hope that makes sence.

Thanks
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post #4980 of 5034 Old 01-16-2019, 01:00 PM
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There are two custom color temp settings and the numeric ones like 6500K, 7500K etc. In my custom temp settings I have 6500K selected as the correction value. If I select the named 6500K color temp directly and adjust its Gain/Offsets will this adjustment carry over to the two custom settings that have 6500K listed as their correction value?

I want to have a 3rd custom color temp that only is applied when the 6500K is selected directly and not have it alter the other Color Temps that might list 6500K as the preset.

Can I do this or do changes made to the 6500K setting carry over to other color temps when 6500K is listed as the correction? Hope that makes sence.

Thanks
Each colour temperature setting is independent. The Custom Colour Temperatures do not “inherit” the settings from their Correction Values.

Last edited by Dominic Chan; 01-16-2019 at 01:12 PM.
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