Official JVC RS520/RS620 (X7500/X9500) Owner's Thread - Page 97 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2881 of 5131 Old 08-09-2017, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by D_B_0673 View Post
Can I force the 620 to stay on low lamp when viewing HDR 4k?
I feel I would have a enough brightness (only 106" DaLite high Powerscreen )
I am hoping to not have the fans ramp up, although I don' know how much louder it would be.
thanks
dan
Yes. I used my 520 in low lamp for 4k with my HP screen.
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post #2882 of 5131 Old 08-09-2017, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Toe View Post
Yes. I used my 520 in low lamp for 4k with my HP screen.
what settings did you use, i.e to keep the pj from forcing the lamp to high. I thought the pj automatically went to high lamp mode with HDR

Dan
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post #2883 of 5131 Old 08-09-2017, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by D_B_0673 View Post
what settings did you use, i.e to keep the pj from forcing the lamp to high. I thought the pj automatically went to high lamp mode with HDR
Unless I'm remembering it wrong (someone correct me if I am), once I switched it over to low lamp for the HDR preset it stayed there.
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post #2884 of 5131 Old 08-10-2017, 04:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toe View Post
Unless I'm remembering it wrong (someone correct me if I am), once I switched it over to low lamp for the HDR preset it stayed there.
thanks
dan

Dan
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post #2885 of 5131 Old 08-10-2017, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Javs View Post
Same physical projector save for the gold trim ring on the RS.

I have an X9500 which is identical to an X970 which is identical to an RS620.
Some may wonder why there are two different model numbers and similar projector's, one unit is meant for custom installer types and the other is meant for retails stores like Best Buy.
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post #2886 of 5131 Old 08-10-2017, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Javs View Post
Same physical projector save for the gold trim ring on the RS.

I have an X9500 which is identical to an X970 which is identical to an RS620.
Some may wonder why there are two different model numbers and similar projector's, one unit is meant for custom installer types and the other is meant for retails stores like Best Buy.
Which makes no damn sense whatsoever. Lol

It's the only thing that I don't like about JVC. Not a big deal.
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post #2887 of 5131 Old 08-10-2017, 04:16 PM
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Hi Everyone,

I have a newish RS620. I experienced the colored bars and lock up when switching between HDR and non-HDR sources, so I successfully applied the firmware upgrade to 30.1 two nights ago.

I was just watching an HDR show on Amazon Video on Roku and at the end the projector went to switch back to SDR and it locked up again. See attached pic.

Anyone have any thoughts? The 30.1 upgrade was definitely successful ...

David
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post #2888 of 5131 Old 08-10-2017, 06:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgkula View Post
Hi Everyone,

I have a newish RS620. I experienced the colored bars and lock up when switching between HDR and non-HDR sources, so I successfully applied the firmware upgrade to 30.1 two nights ago.

I was just watching an HDR show on Amazon Video on Roku and at the end the projector went to switch back to SDR and it locked up again. See attached pic.

Anyone have any thoughts? The 30.1 upgrade was definitely successful ...

David
Many of us have encountered a bug that sounds like this, specifically with the Roku, and it seems to occur only when CMD is turned On. So, is your CMD On? If it is, turn it Off when using the Roku, and theoretically the problem shouldn't occur, if it's the same one many of us have run into.

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post #2889 of 5131 Old 08-11-2017, 05:12 AM
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Originally Posted by DLCPhoto View Post
Many of us have encountered a bug that sounds like this, specifically with the Roku, and it seems to occur only when CMD is turned On. So, is your CMD On? If it is, turn it Off when using the Roku, and theoretically the problem shouldn't occur, if it's the same one many of us have run into.

Don
Yea I also got this problem form time to time when switching output to my Roku or resolution/refresh rate on my HTPC. And I also concur that it only seem to happend when CMD is on.

The firmware update did not hel for this.

EllisGJ, a member here got an open ticket with JVC on this matter.

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post #2890 of 5131 Old 08-11-2017, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by lunnar View Post
Yea I also got this problem form time to time when switching output to my Roku or resolution/refresh rate on my HTPC. And I also concur that it only seem to happend when CMD is on.

The firmware update did not hel for this.

EllisGJ, a member here got an open ticket with JVC on this matter.
If anyone can reproduce this problem on demand - a set of steps that causes the failure - it would help JVC with the diagnosis.
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post #2891 of 5131 Old 08-11-2017, 06:57 PM
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Does anyone have any experience programming the harmony hub to work with the RS520?

Which the power on setting is sent I see the projector led blink green as if it received the signal but doesn't switch on. The original remote works fine.
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post #2892 of 5131 Old 08-11-2017, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by starshipvelcro View Post
Does anyone have any experience programming the harmony hub to work with the RS520?

Which the power on setting is sent I see the projector led blink green as if it received the signal but doesn't switch on. The original remote works fine.
Hi, I had that same issue while programming my Harmony 650. I used the projector remote and put it next to the 650 remote and manually programmed the power on command.
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post #2893 of 5131 Old 08-12-2017, 06:02 AM
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I'm thinking about buying an X7500. My screen will be a 16:9 110" diagonal Elite Saker tab tensioned (view width about 240cm / 96").

According to the viewing distance table from the manual, the projector can be placed anywhere from 3.31m / 130.3" (wide) tot 6.75m / 265.7" (tele) away from the screen, is that correct? Is there an optimal distance? I mean, if i'm using a 110" screen and i move the projector 6.75 meters away, isn't that asking a lot of the optics and light output?

In my case, the projector can be placed at any distance i want, so i guess that 3.31m is the one to go for?
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post #2894 of 5131 Old 08-12-2017, 07:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgkula View Post
Hi Everyone,

I have a newish RS620. I experienced the colored bars and lock up when switching between HDR and non-HDR sources, so I successfully applied the firmware upgrade to 30.1 two nights ago.

I was just watching an HDR show on Amazon Video on Roku and at the end the projector went to switch back to SDR and it locked up again. See attached pic.

Anyone have any thoughts? The 30.1 upgrade was definitely successful ...

David
Have the 570R ( 420) but this happens to me too when watching HDR on Amazon and then switching back to menu or SDR with Roku. except my screen goes all to black. everything is running through yamaha 3060. I switch inputs back and forth on the receiver and then the Roku menu comes back up. I haven't done the latest firmware update yet ( no PC or cable at the moment). Sorry to hear it still does it even with the latest firmware. I have CMD off.
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post #2895 of 5131 Old 08-12-2017, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by jowicrt View Post
According to the viewing distance table from the manual, the projector can be placed anywhere from 3.31m / 130.3" (wide) tot 6.75m / 265.7" (tele) away from the screen, is that correct? Is there an optimal distance? I mean, if i'm using a 110" screen and i move the projector 6.75 meters away, isn't that asking a lot of the optics and light output?
It depends on what you want/need in your setup. Shorter throw results in more brightness but lower contrast, where as long throw is the reverse. Previously I would have said put it at long throw since these projectors are quite bright and you've got a modest/average screen size, so there's plenty of brightness on tap, we can afford to focus on maximizing contrast.

However the wrench in that plan is HDR, for that we tend to want as much brightness as possible, so you might want to put it at short throw for that.
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post #2896 of 5131 Old 08-12-2017, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by stanger89 View Post
Shorter throw results in more brightness but lower contrast, where as long throw is the reverse.
I wasn't aware of the relationship between throw distance and contrast... i'm having trouble explaining this to myself; contrast is the difference between the brightest and blackest a projector can generate; but if you move the projector away from the screen, the brightness will reduce, but also the blackness will improve... in an ideal, black room, if i move my projector away to an infinite distance, my blacks will be perfect, but my brightness will be gone

I mean, the ideal projector, like a crt for example, will have a superior blacklevel at any distance, since it just doesn't emit any light at a 0 ire signal. So i can imagine moving a crt away from the screen will decreas brightness, and since the black stays the same, the contrast will get lower... not higher? Am i missing something?
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post #2897 of 5131 Old 08-12-2017, 10:15 AM
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It's due to how the lenses work. Projectors don't have constant aperture lenses, as you zoom out (farther throw) the f-stop decreases, which means it it blocks more light, but it also blocks more stray (reflected) light than it does desired light. So that means the contrast increases. It's the same way that contrast increases when you reduce the iris/aperture setting in the projector.
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post #2898 of 5131 Old 08-12-2017, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thetman View Post
Have the 570R ( 420) but this happens to me too when watching HDR on Amazon and then switching back to menu or SDR with Roku. except my screen goes all to black. everything is running through yamaha 3060. I switch inputs back and forth on the receiver and then the Roku menu comes back up. I haven't done the latest firmware update yet ( no PC or cable at the moment). Sorry to hear it still does it even with the latest firmware. I have CMD off.
I'm new around here, but have had the lock-up occur a couple times prior to 30.1 install (too recent to say whether it has helped or not). And I can tell you that if switching inputs on the Yamaha fixes the problem, that is not the same lock-up problem we are lamenting. The one and only remedy to that is to pull the power cord on the PJ.

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post #2899 of 5131 Old 08-13-2017, 06:40 AM
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I was thinking of getting a new screen to go with my 770R . I have a Screen Innovations 106" 1.1 or 1.0 not sure, matte white fixed screen 16x9 I was using with my old epson projector. Since we watch 90% Blu-ray movies I am really getting tired of the black bars and was thinking of going with a 2.35:1 screen. Was wondering what would be a good match with this projector and would there be a noticeable jump in PQ to justify spending the money on a new screen? Also when watching a 16x9 program will it be distorted when you stretch it to fill the screen?
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post #2900 of 5131 Old 08-13-2017, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by mzs22 View Post
I was thinking of getting a new screen to go with my 770R . I have a Screen Innovations 106" 1.1 or 1.0 not sure, matte white fixed screen 16x9 I was using with my old epson projector. Since we watch 90% Blu-ray movies I am really getting tired of the black bars and was thinking of going with a 2.35:1 screen. Was wondering what would be a good match with this projector and would there be a noticeable jump in PQ to justify spending the money on a new screen? Also when watching a 16x9 program will it be distorted when you stretch it to fill the screen?
Assuming you want to have the same picture size for 16x9 images, your 2.35 screen will be wider. That might be a noticeable improvement if the image width is more suitable for you.

I made such a transition as my original theater was too narrow for a 2.35 screen, so I went from a 42 deg angle of view to 53 deg with the new screen (so-called 1:1 distance to width ratio) which for me was a big improvement for widescreen presentations -- I leave 16x9 and 1.85 images alone (CIH mode). The wider screen means zooming the image larger, so there's technically a drop in resolution and brightness that occurs. Not a problem for me, and I don't use 4k or e-Shift.

Aside from size, unless you are not happy with the texture of the screen, I do not see how a new material will improve things noticeably.

If you stretch 16x9 images to fill the 2.35 screen, by definition you will see distortion. That's what stretch does -- non-linear or otherwise. I do not bother with that. The non-illuminated side bars are of no consequence to my eyes. But my room is on the dark side.

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post #2901 of 5131 Old 08-13-2017, 12:19 PM
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I was just thinking the wider screen would be nice because that is the majority of what I watch, my room is only 14ft wide and I still need to leave room for my front towers. I thought if I could get a substantial bump in pq it might be worth it . I will have to take some measurements and see if it would work. I would like to get a little larger screen now that I have a projector that can light it up. Going to get it calibrated so I would like to get a new screen if I am going to before that. Thanks!
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post #2902 of 5131 Old 08-13-2017, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by mzs22 View Post
I was just thinking the wider screen would be nice because that is the majority of what I watch, my room is only 14ft wide and I still need to leave room for my front towers. I thought if I could get a substantial bump in pq it might be worth it . I will have to take some measurements and see if it would work. I would like to get a little larger screen now that I have a projector that can light it up. Going to get it calibrated so I would like to get a new screen if I am going to before that. Thanks!
If the majority of what you watch is scope and you have the space to go wider, then I would definitely consider going with a scope screen. What throw distance do you have to work with? If you could fit a 133" diagonal 2.35 screen in your room, you would get the same size 16:9 that you currently get, but a huge step up in scope image. With the 133" 2.35, your scope image would be 44.13SF, compared to your current scope image size of 25.01SF. We are talking a 76.45% increase in size.

Last edited by Mike Garrett; 08-13-2017 at 12:59 PM.
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post #2903 of 5131 Old 08-13-2017, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
If the majority of what you watch is scope and you have the space to go wider, then I would definitely consider going with a scope screen. What throw distance do you have to work with? If you could fit a 133" diagonal 2.35 screen in your room, you would get the same size 16:9 that you currently get, but a huge step up in scope image.
My throw distance is 14ft. What would the dimensions of the 133" be?
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post #2904 of 5131 Old 08-13-2017, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by mzs22 View Post
My throw distance is 14ft. What would the dimensions of the 133" be?
You would need 14'-4" to be able to fill the 133" diagonal 2.35. Size would be 52-1/8" x 122-3/8".
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post #2905 of 5131 Old 08-13-2017, 01:36 PM
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You would need 14'-4" to be able to fill the 133" diagonal 2.35. Size would be 52-1/8" x 122-3/8".
My exact measurement is lens to wall 14.3 and at 52 1/8 tall I could fit my towers under the screen if I have the top of the screen 5 inches from my ceiling. not suer if this would work or if I would have to go a little smaller.
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I would like a 133" but might have to settle with 120
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Originally Posted by mzs22 View Post
I would like a 133" but might have to settle with 120
Or go somewhere inbetween.
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post #2908 of 5131 Old 08-14-2017, 10:42 AM
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So, I'm still chasing the HDR dragon, and am wondering if dropping from a 120' 1.0 gain to 100' higher gain (exact number TBD) screen would be a significant improvement. As I understand it there is a brightness increase from shrinking the screen, and higher gain seems like an easy brightness win (below whatever point makes the screen start to sparkle).

Thoughts?
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post #2909 of 5131 Old 08-14-2017, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Dressler View Post
I'm new around here, but have had the lock-up occur a couple times prior to 30.1 install (too recent to say whether it has helped or not). And I can tell you that if switching inputs on the Yamaha fixes the problem, that is not the same lock-up problem we are lamenting. The one and only remedy to that is to pull the power cord on the PJ.
DO NOT pull the power cord you will damage the PJ. hold down the power switch on the back of the PJ until shuts off gracefully.

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post #2910 of 5131 Old 08-14-2017, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackgold9 View Post
So, I'm still chasing the HDR dragon, and am wondering if dropping from a 120' 1.0 gain to 100' higher gain (exact number TBD) screen would be a significant improvement. As I understand it there is a brightness increase from shrinking the screen, and higher gain seems like an easy brightness win (below whatever point makes the screen start to sparkle).

Thoughts?
Do a simple test, shrink your screen via zoom. do you see a difference?
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