Official JVC DLA-RS420 (DLA-X570R) Owners Thread - Page 57 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1681 of 2678 Old 01-13-2018, 04:26 PM
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I'm getting set to install 2- x590r -s late this coming week,(...one replacing a Panny 8000, the other a ancient Studio Experience HD-50...) for some previous Customers and I'd like to see / know ahead of time if these newest iterations have any particular sore points.
I've read a lot on the RS420, but very few posted references as to the x570r -s. The last 3 x570r -s I've installed have all been trouble free, and these 590's will be my first going in.

Any thing....any feedback would be greatly appreciated.


BTW, Screen sizes will be 130" 2.39:1 & 110" 16:9 respectfully.

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post #1682 of 2678 Old 01-13-2018, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarshMPH View Post
I am hoping someone else has experienced this issue and has a solution.



I thought the first time it happened it was a fluke, but it has happened three times now on consecutive days. When switching the source on the AV receiver (Denon AVRX4300H) for example from BluRay to Satellite, the video becomes unwatchable. The JVC goes through the normal ~10sec HDMI sync, and then the image goes mostly black with very high frequency strobing color bar flashes, it almost hurts to look at. The only solution is to turn off the JVC Projector and turn back on.



When this occurs, I have tried restarting all the peripheral components (satellite box, blu-ray player, AV receiver), I've tried switching HDMI inputs on the JVC Projector, and unplugging HDMI cable from all sources and re-plugging in. Those tests do not fix the display issue.



Projector is not quite 1 month old, and the issue just started this week.


Any chance the cable is too long to make a reliable signal connection? Maybe the cable was somehow damaged? Try a shorter cable to see if it works.


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post #1683 of 2678 Old 01-13-2018, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krumme View Post
Just watched Chefs table at Netflix hdr and is floored. Wow.

On a 108 inch screensize i set lamp mode down to low and tone up 4 and black up 2 and brightness up 2. Went fine. Used 20 sec for the settings so they can probably be better. The slight white burnout in a few spots sometimes didnt mean a single thing for the actual experience. Out the box on lamp auto on high was just perfect for this 108 on a plain white painted wall but noise is to intrusive for my liking.
I guess you have to ajust for much content but it seems netflix got it right.
What this pj needs is better brightness at more tollerable levels. Like imo max 3db above the low level now. But hey went good on this 108 size. Obviously screensize cant be big and ambient light should be next to zero.

I am 100% sold on hdr. Best thing ever. Nice saturated colors in spades. And tons of dynamics. Better than the move from 480 to 720p.


Which gamma setting did you watch it on? I’m still playing with HDR settings.


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post #1684 of 2678 Old 01-14-2018, 05:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ed3120 View Post
Which gamma setting did you watch it on? I’m still playing with HDR settings.


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Hdr St 2084 and settings it selected as standard except
With picture tone up 4
Dark level up 2
Bright level up 2

Notice this is from netflix container. Dont know if they ajust to more friendly settings eg for lower nits what not. And on a 108 screen size. But lamp on low...

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post #1685 of 2678 Old 01-16-2018, 07:23 AM
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Can someone recommend an inexpensive ceiling mount with an adjustable pole? I assume we need something beefier with a large projector like this.
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post #1686 of 2678 Old 01-16-2018, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ed3120 View Post
Can someone recommend an inexpensive ceiling mount with an adjustable pole? I assume we need something beefier with a large projector like this.
I do not think you need an adjustable pole. I went to Home Depot when I put up my first projector 14 years ago and I am still using it with my 420.

In case you are interested, if you go to Home Depot you can buy their one and a half inch npt pipe I believe it's callied. They will cut it to the length that you need and will thread both sides.

You can get a flange to mount to the ceiling and then thread the pipe into the flange. I think it's called a flange. It's basically a round plate about 3 in of 4 in in diameter that you screw onto the ceiling.

To prep the pipe, I sanded it with coarse sandpaper and then fine sandpaper to make a nice service for the primer. After I primed it, I sprayed it with that black textured spray paint. When I was done with it, it looked like powder coated pipe that they sell in retail outlets.

I have pipe and my old projectot in my game room pics. And that leads me to my next point. If you zoom into my projector, you will see I have a wooden board on top of my Epson. I did not have a metal for the Epson, So I placed a board on top of it and drilled three or four holes through the board so then I can screw the board to the Epson.

Now, I have a chief Mount that's 14 years old so I just use that. But if you want to cut cost. You can just get another flange like the one that you attach to the ceiling, and attach that to the board.

Total cost will probably be 15 bucks I think. Maybe a couple of bucks more if you include the Primer, sand paper, and paint.

You do not need adjustable anything because the projector has lens shift.

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post #1687 of 2678 Old 01-16-2018, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ed3120 View Post
Can someone recommend an inexpensive ceiling mount with an adjustable pole? I assume we need something beefier with a large projector like this.
@T-Bone pointed out a good alternative, inexpensive recommendation. The regular pipe, as he mentioned, may save you some money and give you a lot of flexibility. However, you likely don't need an adjustable pipe if you use the lens shift.

I strongly recommend the Chief mounts. You're hanging a several thousand dollar projector. The actual Chief mount for the projector itself allows micro-adjustments to get things dialed in easily and quickly - it's well worth the expense. Pipe - Chief or Home Depot - either way works but I'd go Chief for consistency. The Home Depot flange mount will work but download the Chief Ceiling Mount Selection Guide at Milestone to check out various options as it may give you some other ideas as to how to accomplish your mounting and save money if you go DIY. If you have studs, the CMS 390/391 Dual Joist Ceiling Plate offers a lot of flexibility. You should be able to get some discount off retail pricing if you look around and can always sell the mount when you change projectors.

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post #1688 of 2678 Old 01-16-2018, 09:52 AM
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Absolutely, if one is to spend for even the 570/590, waffling over 40-5000 difference between el'cheapo and quality, mount-wise make no sense.

The Chief RPA-281 Dedicated Mount is an excellent choice at $150.00 from Projector People. Super Low Profile, and impossible to "jiggle"
loose after it's set to the Tilt/Pitch parameters needed for the almost 30lb JVC



Also, instead of a Frankenstein-ien Pipe Flange, one that has a too-small footprint, the Peerless ACC-570 Ceiling plate for under $20.00 is the way to go.



Lastly, as opposed to using a greasy Steel Pipe ( ) that has to be meticulously cleaned and painted to look good, I use 1.5" Schedule 40 PVC....which can easily be cut to exactly the length needed, and with two Male Threaded Couplings, span the drop between the Chief Mount and the Peerless Plate. Scuff the PVC with some sand paper and youy can paint it to match the Ceiling color too! And don't worry about strength...I've hung 45lb -50lb Panasonics on 10 lengths of the PVC pipe. None have ever fallen

Shoot, you could hang your Wife from a section. ( well...if she weighs in at 110 lbs or so....)

Here is an example using the Peerless Plate on the Ceiling:

Enhanced......





And should you desire to create a smooth, "Pipe Only" Ceiling pass through approach, I can provide the Drawings to show you how to do so easily.



Really, the days of using Steel Pipe and ugly Flanges are (...or should be...) long past.


PS......
Any chance at all someone might answe my question I posted last?
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post #1689 of 2678 Old 01-16-2018, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ed3120 View Post
Can someone recommend an inexpensive ceiling mount with an adjustable pole? I assume we need something beefier with a large projector like this.
ed3120,
I would not go with something too inexpensive, as if you spent that much $ on a projector, don't' skim out the supporting hardware. I agree with MississippiMan, get an adapter plate to go with the mount. I got one from Mike @ AVS, with an Chief RPA-281 mount and short tube, as well as a joist adapter. I get no shaking, and I have a V3600 underneath....
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post #1690 of 2678 Old 01-17-2018, 07:22 AM
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Thanks, guys, for all of the mounting ideas.

As for the screen, I'm trying to decide if I should go white or gray. I need a rolldown screen, as I have a plasma behind it for daytime viewing, while I use the projector only at night.

Now that I have the projector, I see how much light comes off of it into the room and I'm concerned about the black level. I have full light control on my windows, so outside light is not a problem. One problem is that this is a basement, with a low ceiling (6'8"), so my wife will only let me keep the ceiling white. (It's a multipurpose room, not a completely dedicated theater.) I definitely see the light reflect off of my temporary tablecloth "screen" and shine onto the ceiling. I'm not so much concerned about seeing the light on the ceiling (it doesn't really bother me), I just wonder how much it's hurting my black level.

Right now, I have a large white tablecloth hanging and I'm shooting the project onto it to experiment. The sharpness isn't where I want it to be and I'd like to see a better black level. It also looks a little washed out. If I stick my head around the back of the tablecloth, I can see the original image reversed, plain as day with full brightness, so I'm guessing that is hurting both my brightness and my black level, when compared to what I would see with a screen.

My original plan was to go with the Elite Screens Spectrum Tab-Tension 125" 1.1 gain white screen (Model Electric 125HT). This is the right size for my room, is tab-tensioned (something I want), and is at the right price for what is left in my budget ($500-600). Now I'm wondering if a gray screen would be better, but a gray screen from the same company/same size, etc is double the price. I also wonder if the gray will be bad in the long run, as the projector bulb ages and puts out less light. I know this project is known more for black level than it is overall brightness, so I don't want to shoot myself in the foot there.

I know there are ALR screens, but they are all in the $2000 and up range for this size and since I stretched my budget on the projector, I can't go that high.

It's a tough decision to make, as I have no real way to A/B two screens and compare them in my room, so I'm trying to experiment and make the right decision before ordering. Do any of you have white ceilings with this projector? What kind of screen did you buy? I just want to make the best decision that I can. Thanks.
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post #1691 of 2678 Old 01-17-2018, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by ed3120 View Post
Thanks, guys, for all of the mounting ideas.




so my wife will only let me keep the ceiling white. (It's a multipurpose room, not a completely dedicated theater.) I definitely see the light reflect off of my temporary tablecloth "screen" and shine onto the ceiling. I'm not so much concerned about seeing the light on the ceiling (it doesn't really bother me), I just wonder how much it's hurting my black level.



It's a tough decision to make, as I have no real way to A/B two screens and compare them in my room, so I'm trying to experiment and make the right decision before ordering. Do any of you have white ceilings with this projector? What kind of screen did you buy? I just want to make the best decision that I can. Thanks.


ed3120,
Boy I hear you on the white ceiling. Benn fighting that one for some time. Good idea with a sheet to get an idea for size. I cannot do that big, but I do have a visual apex 106"(for now), and the image is good. I do have to mention that I did put 2 rows(yards) of black velvet(like) fabric up, and it made a big difference. The wife does not like it very much, but did agree with the picture being better. Then while she was gone, I painted the inside entrance door from white to dark blue. Again not thrilled, but she had bought into it. The other 2 doors leading into a bedroom and utility room are white as well. this is where compromise sometimes works. the wife got some dark curtains and got a long curtain rod to hang over both doors on some hooks. So she open the curtains while not viewing, and then I can close the curtains over the doors while we are watching a movie. Not the perfect solution, but a compromise. This has been a year or so working on her, so don't give up the fight! The black material, as well as the curtains can be removed if needed I told her, so she conceded on the white ceiling and the doors. My projector is about 12 feet from the screen, and about 8 feet are covered with material. Working on the last 4 feet. Oh and the screen is a fixed screen of 1.1 gain. I hope that helps, as you are on the right path. I do not have too many recommendations for 125" screen or pull down. You could ask in the screen section: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/
Good Luck hunting, and let us know how you come up with.
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post #1692 of 2678 Old 01-18-2018, 04:24 AM
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Had my projector for about a month now. Question with live tv. I am streaming the xfinty app. For some reason the picture is not as crisp and detail as watching either Netflix, or a dvd. Is there a setting I am missing or could this be due streaming the xfinity?


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post #1693 of 2678 Old 01-18-2018, 05:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ed3120 View Post
Thanks, guys, for all of the mounting ideas.

As for the screen, I'm trying to decide if I should go white or gray. I need a rolldown screen, as I have a plasma behind it for daytime viewing, while I use the projector only at night.


My original plan was to go with the Elite Screens Spectrum Tab-Tension 125" 1.1 gain white screen (Model Electric 125HT). This is the right size for my room, is tab-tensioned (something I want), and is at the right price for what is left in my budget ($500-600). Now I'm wondering if a gray screen would be better, but a gray screen from the same company/same size, etc is double the price. I also wonder if the gray will be bad in the long run, as the projector bulb ages and puts out less light. I know this project is known more for black level than it is overall brightness, so I don't want to shoot myself in the foot there.

It's a tough decision to make, as I have no real way to A/B two screens and compare them in my room, so I'm trying to experiment and make the right decision before ordering. Do any of you have white ceilings with this projector? What kind of screen did you buy? I just want to make the best decision that I can. Thanks.
Proceed with getting the Grey version. It is still 1.0> Gain and the JVC has both the Lumen output and Contrast to show a really vibrant image at 125" on a >1.0 Gain surface....especially if your not throwing the image from the long end of it's focal length.

At 16' throw and on low lamp you should still clock in at 14-15 fls. As far as the dimming as the lamp ages, initially you just switch to Normal when / if it beomes an issue. By the time that setting becomes too dim, you will/do finally have to accept the "luxury tax" of Lamp replacement (3 yrs?)

As far as the effect light reflecting off the Ceiling goes, the real consideration is the distance from the Top of the Screen to the Ceiling. Anything in excess of 12" - 14" won't detract from the Screen's performance. While the Ceiling will still light up on bright scenes from that 125" display, the reflection will be muted enough to not cause washout on a contrast enhancing surface.

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post #1694 of 2678 Old 01-18-2018, 06:15 AM
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On a 125" diagonal 1.0 gain screen and mounted at short end of the throw, you will get around 34FL. 30FL is considered the minimum for decent HDR, so you will not get very many hours of use with HDR. You would be in great shape for 1080p content.

An easy way to see just what your white ceiling is doing to your image is to get a couple people to hold a dark blanket right above the screen, blocking off the white ceiling. I think you will be shocked at just how much that ceiling is affecting the image, unless you have high ceilings.
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post #1695 of 2678 Old 01-18-2018, 07:15 AM
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As far as the effect light reflecting off the Ceiling goes, the real consideration is the distance from the Top of the Screen to the Ceiling. Anything in excess of 12" - 14" won't detract from the Screen's performance. While the Ceiling will still light up on bright scenes from that 125" display, the reflection will be muted enough to not cause washout on a contrast enhancing surface.
My ceiling is low, 6'8", so I don't have much room above or below the screen. It'll be about 6" from the ceiling for 16:9 content.

When I go for a 2.35:1 movie, I'll naturally have black bars, which pushes the top of the image further down from the ceiling....probably around another 8" for a total of 14". I wonder if that counts in that at least wider movies might not suffer from as many reflections.
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post #1696 of 2678 Old 01-18-2018, 07:18 AM
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On a 125" diagonal 1.0 gain screen and mounted at short end of the throw, you will get around 34FL. 30FL is considered the minimum for decent HDR, so you will not get very many hours of use with HDR. You would be in great shape for 1080p content.
Is that at low lamp mode or high lamp mode?

My projector's lens is 15 ft back from the screen. I'm not sure if that's at the short or long end of the throw.
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post #1697 of 2678 Old 01-18-2018, 07:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ed3120 View Post
Is that at low lamp mode or high lamp mode?

My projector's lens is 15 ft back from the screen. I'm not sure if that's at the short or long end of the throw.
High lamp calibrated. What is your screen width and what fabric? Unless your screen is really small and/or really high gain, you should be using high lamp for HDR. I know that some do not, but they should.
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post #1698 of 2678 Old 01-18-2018, 07:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ed3120 View Post
Is that at low lamp mode or high lamp mode?

My projector's lens is 15 ft back from the screen. I'm not sure if that's at the short or long end of the throw.
High lamp calibrated. What is your screen width and what fabric? Unless your screen is really small and/or really high gain, you should be using high lamp for HDR. I know that some do not, but they should.
Planning on a 125? 16:9 diagonal, but haven?t decided on which one yet. Currently shooting it against a white tablecloth.

Yeah, I use high lamp mode for HDR. I just wanted to know if your numbers were for high or low lamp. Thanks.
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post #1699 of 2678 Old 01-20-2018, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by krumme View Post
Hdr St 2084 and settings it selected as standard except
With picture tone up 4
Dark level up 2
Bright level up 2

Notice this is from netflix container. Dont know if they ajust to more friendly settings eg for lower nits what not. And on a 108 screen size. But lamp on low...
This adjustment only for White or all colors?
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post #1700 of 2678 Old 01-21-2018, 04:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ed3120 View Post
My ceiling is low, 6'8", so I don't have much room above or below the screen. It'll be about 6" from the ceiling for 16:9 content.

When I go for a 2.35:1 movie, I'll naturally have black bars, which pushes the top of the image further down from the ceiling....probably around another 8" for a total of 14". I wonder if that counts in that at least wider movies might not suffer from as many reflections.
You are correct in the assumption that 2.39:1 movies will produce less reflections due to the increased distance of the top of the image from the Ceiling.


Guys, can I get an answer here:

Quote:
I'm getting set to install 2- x590r -s late this coming week,(...one replacing a Panny 8000, the other a ancient Studio Experience HD-50...) for some previous Customers and I'd like to see / know ahead of time if these newest iterations have any particular sore points.
I've read a lot on the RS420, but very few posted references as to the x570r -s. The last 3 x570r -s I've installed have all been trouble free, and these 590's will be my first going in.

Any thing....any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
.....or does no one else at all have any experience / feedback on the x590r?

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post #1701 of 2678 Old 01-21-2018, 04:45 AM
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This adjustment only for White or all colors?
Its for white.
My experience is you need to find the excact right mix for your own setup eg screen size, screen type, room and material. And one single step makes a difference. But its very visible so easily doable at least for me to dial in.
The hdr colors is out the box far more precise than standard material. Not this slightly over saturated red and green that seems a bit off on my machine. I dont know perhaps they are slightly different.

Saw another Netflix production yesterday. Hibana spark. And all the family just loves the look. It is a game changer in this bouse. Its something we search for because it changes the experience. I use same setting for all netflix material. Dont play uhd bluray.

My proposal for procedure:
Select material that is normal and low in highest nits. I mean a pj cant do it anyway and who cares how these borderline cases look. Hdr is imo about the fine granularity in lightning and sweet fine colors. Get that forward. Not the lightsword.
Find an average scene or several. I would select a darker one of those as target.
I would turn up picture tone until it doesnt look dark or barely so. Then it will look out of balance. Then ajust darkness up a step of a time. Then take brightness as last step. Go back and ajust picture tone ...and so on.
Brightness might be half darkness or even zero in your setup.

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post #1702 of 2678 Old 01-21-2018, 04:47 AM
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As far as the effect light reflecting off the Ceiling goes, the real consideration is the distance from the Top of the Screen to the Ceiling. Anything in excess of 12" - 14" won't detract from the Screen's performance. While the Ceiling will still light up on bright scenes from that 125" display, the reflection will be muted enough to not cause washout on a contrast enhancing surface.
My ceiling is low, 6'8", so I don't have much room above or below the screen. It'll be about 6" from the ceiling for 16:9 content.

When I go for a 2.35:1 movie, I'll naturally have black bars, which pushes the top of the image further down from the ceiling....probably around another 8" for a total of 14". I wonder if that counts in that at least wider movies might not suffer from as many reflections.
You could also try experimenting with the power shift and memory settings. So if you do watch content that's 2.35 or 2.40 to 1, Shift yhr image down closer to the bottom of the screen to see if that helps.

I have higher ceilings than you, and my 16 by 9 image is 25 in below the white ceiling. I have a totally light control room. While driving my 420 with my home theater PC, I used madVR to digitally shift the image to the bottom of the screen when watching 2.40 to 1 content.

The result? I noticed no improvement in the picture :-). But since you have less space between your ceiling compared to me, you might benefit from a shift downward.

-T
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post #1703 of 2678 Old 01-21-2018, 06:51 AM
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Hi guys

Should be getting one of these lovely units next week to replace an Epson 9300 that I've never been quite happy with the contrast.

Any users here using a HD FURY Linker to enable the dynamic iris for HDR?
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post #1704 of 2678 Old 01-21-2018, 06:52 AM
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Hi guys

Should be getting one of these lovely units next week to replace an Epson 9300 that I've never been quite happy with the contrast.

Any users here using a HD FURY Linker to enable the dynamic iris for HDR?
Just an FYI...I think the x590r now has that feature, if you were deciding between the x570r and x590r.
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post #1705 of 2678 Old 01-21-2018, 06:57 AM
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Just an FYI...I think the x590r now has that feature, if you were deciding between the x570r and x590r.
Thanks, yes I'm aware but I'm getting a good discount on a unit with very low hours.
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post #1706 of 2678 Old 01-21-2018, 07:03 AM
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I'm considering all mounting options, and I thought about building a box and mounting it to my wall, against the ceiling. I know that airflow is a concern, so I thought about building the box to give 6" of clearance on the left and right sides, as well as the top. I would also cut 6"x6" holes in the rear left and right sides to allow air to flow to the rear vents. The front of the box would be open (no glass.)

Regarding airflow...does this look like a terrible idea that could harm the projector or shorten the life of the bulb?
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post #1707 of 2678 Old 01-21-2018, 08:01 AM
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Its for white.
My experience is you need to find the excact right mix for your own setup eg screen size, screen type, room and material. And one single step makes a difference. But its very visible so easily doable at least for me to dial in.
The hdr colors is out the box far more precise than standard material. Not this slightly over saturated red and green that seems a bit off on my machine. I dont know perhaps they are slightly different.

Saw another Netflix production yesterday. Hibana spark. And all the family just loves the look. It is a game changer in this bouse. Its something we search for because it changes the experience. I use same setting for all netflix material. Dont play uhd bluray.

My proposal for procedure:
Select material that is normal and low in highest nits. I mean a pj cant do it anyway and who cares how these borderline cases look. Hdr is imo about the fine granularity in lightning and sweet fine colors. Get that forward. Not the lightsword.
Find an average scene or several. I would select a darker one of those as target.
I would turn up picture tone until it doesnt look dark or barely so. Then it will look out of balance. Then ajust darkness up a step of a time. Then take brightness as last step. Go back and ajust picture tone ...and so on.
Brightness might be half darkness or even zero in your setup.
Thanks, will definitely experiment! I was looking at some of the other recommendations and they suggest playing with the master contrast and brightness also. I was wondering if you tried that.
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post #1708 of 2678 Old 01-21-2018, 02:17 PM
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Thanks, will definitely experiment! I was looking at some of the other recommendations and they suggest playing with the master contrast and brightness also. I was wondering if you tried that.
No it was not nessesary for me.
When i alter the picture tone i can see why some people people cant get it right. But in my setup the hdr picture ends up more balanced than the normal. I havnt even run my spyder5 yet. Lol. Perhaps you have to go tweak the gamma settings in auto calibration or import someones custom 1000 nits curves. I am kind of picky and conservative with such stuff but i can safely say it is working fine here if those uber nits is not expected and cared for. So with some work it ought to be possible in other setups.
Remember even a single step from eg 2 to 3 makes difference for the balance. Get the match right and let us know where you end !
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post #1709 of 2678 Old 01-21-2018, 02:38 PM
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I think with a DLP it is very possible to use other peoples settings to get close to accurate, possible not necessarily true though. Meaning some DLP's it can be done.

You need to have an all black room though, and the person's settings you are using also need to be in an all-black room, or at least somewhat color neutral. They also need to have a fairly recently checked meter of course. I've found the color on DLP's does not drift nearly as much as the other 2 techs. Especially gamma, DLP's tend to hold their gamma, LCOS and LCD are all over the place after X hours on the lamp.

I'd say just buying a meter and doing it yourself is easier.

With LCOS or LCD, I think the variance between units is too big.

The room does affect the color some, and the screen material a little (some screens worse than others), but if you look at people that setup the old Runco LS-5's / Planars, many of those were calibrated by the factory, and many people when they tried to improve the calibration actually found the existing calibration was around 2dE or even lower.

The only reason I mention the above is that, the room has some effect, but certainly not a huge effect unless you have a unique color scheme in your room, then it might.

PER THE WHITE CEILING:
See if you can attach white velcro to the ceiling to the point where it cannot be seen (might be hard), then you could at least velcro a black panel or black sheet or something before movie watching, remove it afterwards.

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post #1710 of 2678 Old 01-21-2018, 04:50 PM
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Hi guys

Should be getting one of these lovely units next week to replace an Epson 9300 that I've never been quite happy with the contrast.

Any users here using a HD FURY Linker to enable the dynamic iris for HDR?
Let us know your impressions. I think you'll be very happy. All things being equal, the jump to LCOS over LCD is quite noticeable IMO (for the better).
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