Sony VPL-VW385ES Owners Thread - Page 19 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #541 of 3718 Old 09-18-2017, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by AMartin56 View Post
The iris fully open portions are pretty much 'no iris'.

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Awesome, thanks for explaining! So since you said between 13000:1 and 18000: contrast difference wouldn't be noticeable in my viewing distance, does that mean even a difference between 18000:1 (which is what i'll have) and about 23000:1 (which is likely i think what the 385 with an iris will have) won't really be noticeable for me?
That's after seeing in the article that an iris only added 5000:1 contrast difference on the 520es
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post #542 of 3718 Old 09-18-2017, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by sahil0909 View Post
Awesome, thanks for explaining! So since you said between 13000:1 and 18000: contrast difference wouldn't be noticeable in my viewing distance, does that mean even a difference between 18000:1 (which is what i'll have) and about 23000:1 (which is likely i think what the 385 with an iris will have) won't really be noticeable for me?
That's after seeing in the article that an iris only added 5000:1 contrast difference on the 520es
Cine4home's data is more accurate. on the 550:

Due to the threshold control of the adaptive iris, a real dynamic contrast is difficult to quantify. Detailed analyzes are still pending , but according to the first results it works with a factor of around six, which results in a dynamic contrast of around 87,000: 1 .

they already demo'd the difference between the 285/385 in a low APL scene.

http://screenshotcomparison.com/comparison/116952

in a light controlled, treated room there will be a perceivable difference in low APL scenes.
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post #543 of 3718 Old 09-18-2017, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by AMartin56 View Post
Not really. Most high rollers seem to run with a little positive gain so they can clamp the iris down as much as possible. This seems to get the best results.
Its definitely not that simple lol. You've got peak gain and zero degrees viewing axis to deal with, viewing angles (most sit dead center so may not matter but again it may) with higher gain are impacted as light is more directed in the center and diminishes for those outside center not to mention the shifts when moving. I don't have a high gain screen but you can have issues displaying accurate colors as they don't reflect evenly in all directions, and lets not forget hot spotting. Saw this first hand at my local cinema this weekend watching American Assassin (really really good flick) but the hot spotting was brutal. Was actually the first I've ever seen that. I'm not advocating either high or low they just have their own pros and cons as it truly depends on the desired effect, hardware, and environment. For my room and technology I've been using (LCOS) 1.1 has been very good but I still see reflected light. The demo with the 675 was .8 and though my room is 100x better and to be fair the 675 is a 100x better then my 40ES I'd love to see how the 675 looked on the 1.1. I'd imagine weakened blacks, less pop. I'll never know, but one thing for sure, check out the VW5000 thread plenty of various choices on screen gain.

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Thank you for this.

Like many others I presume, I am still deciding whether to get the 285 or 385.

I do not have a teated room (but I only watch when it's dark outside and with no ambient light whatsoever), matter of fact it's a projector's nightmare because of the white walls and ceiling. Regardless though I am very satisfied with how my current PJ (Sony VPL HW 55ES) produces a picture on my 102" 16:9 screen with 0.8 gain.

Your post has gotten me thinking that in my situation, maybe I should go for the 285. I wonder if the DI will make much of a difference?
It's good to hear DCI coverage is about 90%, that will work for me. I'm not too worried about motion and banding that much to be honest. I am more concerned with how the HDR will be able to hold up. I hope my 102" screen will do just fine.

I would think with a 285 you'd be pleased with contrast and blacks. My experience has always been, if I am debating on something else, unless there is a flat line between the two, buy once cry once. That way I never have to question or wish I'd have gotten something else. In the end it always saves me from having to upgrade earlier and not being content. I have a dedicated room so I can see where I'd be torn for sure if I was in your shoes. These appear to check enough boxes that it may make sense to go a little bigger spending wise for more as an upgrade shouldn't be needed for awhile. Mike can probably offer more expertise on if he thinks the differences will be worth it. I vote get a bigger screen and a 385ES, and paint the room.
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post #544 of 3718 Old 09-18-2017, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by sahil0909 View Post
Let's say i don't use any zoom, but i just place the projector say 10 feet away and stick with whatever size picture it throws, will that mean i get the highest possible contrast which in this case according to ekki's article would be about 18000:1?
And that if i use zoom the contrast will begin to reduce?

Thanks mike
Generally, the farther back you mount the projector, the contrast increases slightly and the brightness decreases. With HDR needing brightness, I would mount at the shorter end of the range, if the screen allows (so screen require longer throw). You really are not going to be able to tell the difference between 15,000:1 and 18,000:1 contrast.
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post #545 of 3718 Old 09-18-2017, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
Generally, the farther back you mount the projector, the contrast increases slightly and the brightness decreases. With HDR needing brightness, I would mount at the shorter end of the range, if the screen allows (so screen require longer throw). You really are not going to be able to tell the difference between 15,000:1 and 18,000:1 contrast.
Thanks alot mike. I unfortunately, or rather fortunately in this case will be forced to mount my projector on the lower end, so i guess it's a win. I think the 285es with blacks as good as the 675es is amazing!
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post #546 of 3718 Old 09-18-2017, 08:39 AM
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Not a fan of a lower resolution source for an upscaled 4k though to mitigate the lack of FI though maybe that is the right answer if its bad which I don't expect, just imagine it could be better. It would be interesting to see how downsampled games would look by comparison. Having said all of that, I understand on the FI though, Sony engineers said it would require a processor for each chip and I am sure that would impact cost which I think no one really wants.
This is kind of a non-issue really.

If you are going to be playing 4K games, most likely you will be running at 60 fps and motion will be smooth. If you are going to watch 4K 24 fps movies, most likely you will run with native motion to stay true to the original film. If you you are going to watch sports and other fast moving TV events, most likely you won't have 4K for awhile with this content, so just take the 1080p source and upscale while using motion FI.
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post #547 of 3718 Old 09-18-2017, 09:33 AM
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This is kind of a non-issue really.

If you are going to be playing 4K games, most likely you will be running at 60 fps and motion will be smooth. If you are going to watch 4K 24 fps movies, most likely you will run with native motion to stay true to the original film. If you you are going to watch sports and other fast moving TV events, most likely you won't have 4K for awhile with this content, so just take the 1080p source and upscale while using motion FI.
All good points and that almost nails my usage case .

Not to get off topic, I wouldn't be so sure on the 4k content. I'm not sure how much muscle the chairman of the FCC has but he is advocating and pushing the move to the ATSC 3.0 standard. With Apple TV, Hulu, PS Vue, and Amazon's rumored entry into the cable cutting frenzy this seems like the next logical step (a profitable one too, it would sway folks to try these cable cutting solutions). This also streamlines the technical issues with a conventional move from cable boxes since old boxes won't work. This is a non issue to those streaming now of course (like PS Vue). I personally think this is coming sooner than later. Rather its through streaming services or apps like WatchESPN. In any case, I think we all want the highest percentage of "buying for tomorrow" with what we buy today.
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post #548 of 3718 Old 09-18-2017, 02:27 PM
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I can't really see the differences on my laptop monitor, but for any of you struggling to follow the video, at about 13 minutes, when he is switching between starfields, listen for zwei-hundert and drei-hundert. German counting is eins-zwei-drei for one-two-three, so "swhy-hoondert" is two-hundred (series) and "dry-hoondert" means three-hundred (series).

At least if my 50-year old High School German is recalled correctly!
I can see dim "stars" on the 385 and can't see them on the 285. If I did not have a 2.40:1 screen I would buy the 285. But we have to remember that this is how the video camera is presenting it and not what it looks like on screen.

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post #549 of 3718 Old 09-18-2017, 02:29 PM
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This is kind of a non-issue really.

If you are going to be playing 4K games, most likely you will be running at 60 fps and motion will be smooth. If you are going to watch 4K 24 fps movies, most likely you will run with native motion to stay true to the original film. If you you are going to watch sports and other fast moving TV events, most likely you won't have 4K for awhile with this content, so just take the 1080p source and upscale while using motion FI.
Many 4k games can't achieve 60 fps. I will be gaming with the PS4 Pro and the Xbox One X so I am very interested in how the image will look in 4k at various frame rates between 30 and 60.

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post #550 of 3718 Old 09-19-2017, 12:10 AM
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Thanks TheBrandon and Amartin for responding to my previous post.

I don't know if this has been mentioned, but does the DI also function when watching 3D and HDR content? I figure it would not, should that be the case then I will probably go for the 285.
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post #551 of 3718 Old 09-19-2017, 09:19 AM
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Thanks TheBrandon and Amartin for responding to my previous post.

I don't know if this has been mentioned, but does the DI also function when watching 3D and HDR content? I figure it would not, should that be the case then I will probably go for the 285.
No, it functions all the time unless you manually disable it. It is especially useful for HDR because it will give the appearance of deeper blacks and more contrast in a dark scene.
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post #552 of 3718 Old 09-19-2017, 11:54 AM
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No, it functions all the time unless you manually disable it. It is especially useful for HDR because it will give the appearance of deeper blacks and more contrast in a dark scene.
I thought I had just about made up my mind but this brings me back to square one.
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post #553 of 3718 Old 09-19-2017, 12:01 PM
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I thought I had just about made up my mind but this brings me back to square one.
That's how it works, i wake up everyday decided that i'm going to go with a certain projector! And by the time i sleep i now want a different projector! And when i wake up i find something that's wrong with that projector and decide im going with another one! And so on and so forth!!
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post #554 of 3718 Old 09-19-2017, 12:14 PM
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That's how it works, i wake up everyday decided that i'm going to go with a certain projector! And by the time i sleep i now want a different projector! And when i wake up i find something that's wrong with that projector and decide im going with another one! And so on and so forth!!
Instead of buying 385 how about buying 285 and 540 (Cannot lose IMO)
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Instead of buying 385 how about buying 285 and 540 (Cannot lose IMO)
Yeah but which one do you put in your bathroom for long bubble baths?

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post #556 of 3718 Old 09-19-2017, 12:18 PM
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Yeah but which one do you put in your bathroom for long bubble baths?

Use the new iphone8
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Use the new iphone8
I think the new Samsung Galaxy S8+ would work better for the bathroom if you added the VR headset. I got a VR Kit free with my phone. Way bigger screen in VR theater mode, higher pixel density and OLED screen (infinite contrast) with support for HDR10. Plus they throw in a pretty remarkable sounding pair of AKG headphones for free.
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post #558 of 3718 Old 09-19-2017, 12:24 PM
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Instead of buying 385 how about buying 285 and 540 (Cannot lose IMO)
Isn't the 540 going to be for like 6000$ in itself?
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Isn't the 540 going to be for like 6000$ in itself?
If you know the right dealer it can be had for well under $5000.
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post #560 of 3718 Old 09-19-2017, 12:27 PM
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Isn't the 540 going to be for like 6000$ in itself?
Of course. Have to increase budget by 2-3 grand
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post #561 of 3718 Old 09-19-2017, 12:37 PM
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If you know the right dealer it can be had for well under $5000.
Already?? :O I thought for that we'd have to wait atleast a few months, but if it can be had for sub 5000 now, i guess in 6 months we'll get it for sub 4k?

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post #562 of 3718 Old 09-19-2017, 12:41 PM
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Of course. Have to increase budget by 2-3 grand
Haha i don't think i could justify buying two projectors, there's no need personally. just have to make the decision on one ultimately!
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post #563 of 3718 Old 09-19-2017, 12:52 PM
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Haha i don't think i could justify buying two projectors, there's no need personally. just have to make the decision on one ultimately!
For projectors costing less than 10 grand its next to impossible to get everything you want in one projector (Atleast this year). 540 will be better for gaming with its support of HDMI18 and the rest will be covered by 285.
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For projectors costing less than 10 grand its next to impossible to get everything you want in one projector (Atleast this year). 540 will be better for gaming with its support of HDMI18 and the rest will be covered by 285.
Mile Garrett will love this idea of 2 projectors
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Throw distance


I want to get a 385. My proposed screen is 135 inch diagonal 2.35:1. To fill the screen by the zoom, what will the throw distance be? In other words, what I am asking is how far should I hang the projector from the screen?
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post #566 of 3718 Old 09-19-2017, 01:26 PM
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Throw distance


I want to get a 385. My proposed screen is 135 inch diagonal 2.35:1. To fill the screen by the zoom, what will the throw distance be? In other words, what I am asking is how far should I hang the projector from the screen?
With that size screen your brightness is going to suffer. Might be OK for SDR but HDR and 3D will not be bright enough.

You can go to ProjectorCentral.com and use their calculator. Just select the Sony 365 model as they don't have the 385 yet but the zoom and brightness specs are the same.
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post #567 of 3718 Old 09-19-2017, 01:34 PM
 
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With that size screen your brightness is going to suffer. Might be OK for SDR but HDR and 3D will not be bright enough.

You can go to ProjectorCentral.com and use their calculator. Just select the Sony 365 model as they don't have the 385 yet but the zoom and brightness specs are the same.
Also to avoid confusion leave it on the 16:9 defaults and tell it the image size is the WIDTH of your 2.35:1 screen. You don't really care about the height for this exercise. It will automatically adjust it for you. This will give you the possible throw distances. Don't forget to allow for the depth of the projector when deciding if it will fit in your room.
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post #568 of 3718 Old 09-19-2017, 04:04 PM
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For those obsessing while they wait for this, here is a cool calculator. https://www.projectorscreen.com/proj...en-calculators Remember these are 1250 calibrated lumens. I sit at 25.39 ftL based on screen size which is good for low ambient light. Glad I’m in a 100% treated environment. Also, for my 135 inch screen, to resolve all 4k detail, I have to sit 8 feet or closer!! I am between 8-9. . Didn’t realize how close you needed to be!!!
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post #569 of 3718 Old 09-19-2017, 05:32 PM
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Mile Garrett will love this idea of 2 projectors
You mean like this ?





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post #570 of 3718 Old 09-19-2017, 05:36 PM
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Already?? :O I thought for that we'd have to wait atleast a few months, but if it can be had for sub 5000 now, i guess in 6 months we'll get it for sub 4k?
Forget what I said here - thought I was on the JVC pre - order thread.

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