Sony VPL-VW285ES Owners Thread - Page 119 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3541 of 3778 Old 02-26-2019, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
Not sure what point you're trying to make, but I cannot handle mis-information. You do not need to make sure to use full format. Quick format is exactly the same. This whole forum isn't dedicated to help this one guy out whose problem is now solved. It's a thread that my get google searched years to come. Cant let some bad info like that sit.
Ah well, it is hardly like I said to perform some action that would take hours and have a completely different outcome is it?
I have in my experience had times where a quick format hasn't had the desired effect and a full one did.
But hey ho.
So sorry I advocated a method that may take a few more seconds than the other way.
Glad you took time out from your busy day to put me straight though!
Please do me a favour though, next time you come in with a post like that, precede it with "Only meeee" if you would be so kind.
It would let me know I have fudged up and can retract my silly, silly comments before anyone gets hurt.
Cheers.

“Remember to look up at the stars and not down at your feet. Be curious. And however difficult life may seem, there is always something you can do and succeed at. It matters that you don’t just give up."
Stephen Hawking.
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post #3542 of 3778 Old 02-26-2019, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by lithiumus View Post
As promised, I asked @rwestley to also send me the German Curves and I agreed to pay it forward so I uploaded them to Mega and here is a new link.

https://mega.nz/#!og8zyIBA!KpcuqRsM3...2wSXlpx0iq9oTA

It is not set to expire. The only thing I ask in return... is that if these are updated beyond version 2.0, please let me know and if someone sends them to me, I'll upload and update the link. Thanks again!

Thanks man!

Video Games, and Home Theater Forever! ^_^

My Youtube Channel-https://www.youtube.com/rvspawn
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post #3543 of 3778 Old 02-26-2019, 08:37 AM
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The German curves are totally worth It. HDR looks amazing with them!

https://youtu.be/XyhBm7H3mN8
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Video Games, and Home Theater Forever! ^_^

My Youtube Channel-https://www.youtube.com/rvspawn
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post #3544 of 3778 Old 03-01-2019, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by SamEdwards View Post
I used my wife’s Windows 10 laptop and a 128GB empty thumb drive to do the update. The operation was so fast that I thought that it didn’t work. After restarting the projector the firmware version was correct. I removed the Integral from the chain and watched 35 uninterrupted minutes of Oceans 8 in HDR. The format switching also seems vastly improved. Thanks Sony!
Nothing wrong with that, nice to see it was quick and painless.....
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post #3545 of 3778 Old 03-02-2019, 07:36 AM
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I did both the firmware update plus the german curve installation. Just want to be sure i have settings right on Apple TV - do you turn HDR on or leave in 4kSD?
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post #3546 of 3778 Old 03-02-2019, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Paul Halucha View Post
I did both the firmware update plus the german curve installation. Just want to be sure i have settings right on Apple TV - do you turn HDR on or leave in 4kSD?
Official recommendation (often given in the ATV thread) is to leave it in SDR with both format and frame rate matching on.

This is because some apps don’t signal SDR correctly apparently. To quote "If you set the UI default (Video Format) to other than SDR some (defective) SDR apps will be forced to HDR"

I definitely prefer to have mine set to HDR 24hz. You get the HDR screensavers and you evade the banding you would have at HDR 60 hz. If the problem above still exists I haven't noticed it.

In fact sometimes I consider turning off format matching and letting the ATV put everything in HDR space. It seems to do this very well (my opinion only)

In terms of the Frame rate matching ... I sometimes turn this on or off or off and then on again. I have some foreign films and sometimes I can't seem to find a setting that plays them without judder. Maybe in the case of the ones I have that were originally PAL format I should put the ATV in 50Hz directly before trying to watch those. All of that doesn't matter for most content I watch.
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Last edited by Brian Hampton; 03-02-2019 at 02:09 PM.
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post #3547 of 3778 Old 03-02-2019, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Hampton View Post
Official recommendation (often given in the ATV thread) is to leave it in SDR with both format and frame rate matching on.

This is because some apps don’t signal SDR correctly apparently. To quote "If you set the UI default (Video Format) to other than SDR some (defective) SDR apps will be forced to HDR"

I definitely prefer to have mine set to HDR 24hz. You get the HDR screensavers and you evade the banding you would have at HDR 60 hz. If the problem above still exists I haven't noticed it.

In fact sometimes I consider turning off format matching and letting the ATV put everything in HDR space. It seems to do this very well (my opinion only)

In terms of the Frame rate matching ... I sometimes turn this on or off or off and then on again. I have some foreign films and sometimes I can't seem to find a setting that plays them without judder. Maybe in the case of the ones I have that were originally PAL format I should put the ATV in 50Hz directly before trying to watch those. All of that doesn't matter for most content I watch.
Thank you Brian!
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post #3548 of 3778 Old 03-02-2019, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Paul Halucha View Post
Thank you Brian!
I have to say it is awesome to finally have a fully functioning Apple TV and HDR. After 14 months with the projector I had resigned myself to SDR only. It is like having a new system almost and for the cost of a few hours fiddling with the laptop. .
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post #3549 of 3778 Old 03-03-2019, 02:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Halucha View Post
I have to say it is awesome to finally have a fully functioning Apple TV and HDR. After 14 months with the projector I had resigned myself to SDR only. It is like having a new system almost and for the cost of a few hours fiddling with the laptop. .
I am with you there!



If you like the German Curves you can leave the ATV4k in HDR24 with both matching options off and make adjustments for movies that judder. This setup works for most everything and keeps the projector from re-sync-ing often with changing signals.

Last edited by Brian Hampton; 03-03-2019 at 04:43 AM.
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post #3550 of 3778 Old 03-04-2019, 02:03 AM
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I am seeing far less banding @50hz since this firmware update.

My standard go to clip for banding test - the Sony 4K Mont Blanc demo clip always had severe banding at the opening blue sky scene and other places unless I ran it down at 24hz on the Oppo 203.
running it at 50hz now its only there slightly, but definitely is now improved.

Has this issue been tweaked or a little optimized somehow in this update? I have a 360ES. Now running the 7.004 update.

Last edited by Stevie C; 03-04-2019 at 02:13 AM.
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post #3551 of 3778 Old 03-04-2019, 03:22 AM
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I tend to never see banding as I use my PJ mostly at 4k24.

However, last night I was watching the Amazon Prime original The Widow and I had judder so I turned on frame rate matching. This put the PJ in 4k50 and I did see banding. Since I don't usually see it I can't really say it's improved. It was slight and yet banding is pretty easy to spot and pretty artificial looking and therefore distracting.

I guess If I want to watch that program I should force 25Hz. With the bandwidth of this particular PJ banding management becomes a thing.

-Brian
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post #3552 of 3778 Old 03-04-2019, 06:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Hampton View Post

I guess If I want to watch that program I should force 25Hz. With the bandwidth of this particular PJ banding management becomes a thing. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]

-Brian
I am sensitive to banding, and this what I do when watching a British HDR show. Yes, it takes a minute or two to switch, but the beauty of the ATV is that it’s an option.
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post #3553 of 3778 Old 03-11-2019, 04:08 PM
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Had to resort to Linux to format USB to upgrade Firmware

Getting the firmware upgrade to work was a pain.
Formatting my USB drive as Fat 32 on Windows 10 didn't work on multiple USB drives.

I finally got it to work.
I used Linux.

Overview for Linux experts:
Create a new partition 1 of type b W95 FAT32 on your USB.
mkfs -t msdos /dev/sdUSB
mount /dev/sdUSB1 /mnt
unzip sony_pjupdate_2015_7004_pjl_auth.zip
mv sony_dtv0FA30A07A0A7_00072900 /mnt
umount /mnt

If you have Linux available, and know some Linux, here is what I did as root to create the USB:

Put in your USB drive, then:
From the root command prompt: fdisk -l
to get a listing of all the disks it sees.
Figure out which letter your USB drive is.
It may be something like sdb, sdc, etc.
If you think its sda, use extra caution, that's normally the boot drive on your computer.
(I use NVME for my computer, so for me the USB was sda.)

Delete the partition. Obviously be careful and don't delete the wrong one!

From the root command prompt: fdisk /dev/sd[letter of your USB drive]

Within fdisk program:
p to print the partitions
d to delete the FAT32 partition on your USB drive

Create a new partition of type b W95 FAT32

n for a new partition
p for primary
1 for 1st partition
First sector, just push enter, Should be 2048
Last sector, just push enter, should be size of whole USB
t for type
b for W95 FAT32
w for write changes to disk.

Writing the changes should have quit you out of the fdisk program.

From the root command prompt:
(Don't mess this up or you can erase the wrong disk!)
mkfs -t msdos /dev/sd[letter of your USB drive]1
mount /dev/sd[letter of your USB drive]1 /mnt
unzip sony_pjupdate_2015_7004_pjl_auth.zip
mv sony_dtv0FA30A07A0A7_00072900 /mnt
umount /mnt

You put the USB drive in the projector, power it on.
Indicator light on projector goes amber, you resist all tempatation to mess with it for 5-10 minutes,
then after the projector reboots itself multiple times, it will be sitting there with the red light.
You hit the power, and it's working again.

Last edited by Axel Olmos; 03-11-2019 at 04:11 PM.
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post #3554 of 3778 Old 03-11-2019, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axel Olmos View Post
Getting the firmware upgrade to work was a pain.
Formatting my USB drive as Fat 32 on Windows 10 didn't work on multiple USB drives.

I finally got it to work.
I used Linux.

Overview for Linux experts:
Create a new partition 1 of type b W95 FAT32 on your USB.
mkfs -t msdos /dev/sdUSB
mount /dev/sdUSB1 /mnt
unzip sony_pjupdate_2015_7004_pjl_auth.zip
mv sony_dtv0FA30A07A0A7_00072900 /mnt
umount /mnt

If you have Linux available, and know some Linux, here is what I did as root to create the USB:

Put in your USB drive, then:
From the root command prompt: fdisk -l
to get a listing of all the disks it sees.
Figure out which letter your USB drive is.
It may be something like sdb, sdc, etc.
If you think its sda, use extra caution, that's normally the boot drive on your computer.
(I use NVME for my computer, so for me the USB was sda.)

Delete the partition. Obviously be careful and don't delete the wrong one!

From the root command prompt: fdisk /dev/sd[letter of your USB drive]

Within fdisk program:
p to print the partitions
d to delete the FAT32 partition on your USB drive

Create a new partition of type b W95 FAT32

n for a new partition
p for primary
1 for 1st partition
First sector, just push enter, Should be 2048
Last sector, just push enter, should be size of whole USB
t for type
b for W95 FAT32
w for write changes to disk.

Writing the changes should have quit you out of the fdisk program.

From the root command prompt:
(Don't mess this up or you can erase the wrong disk!)
mkfs -t msdos /dev/sd[letter of your USB drive]1
mount /dev/sd[letter of your USB drive]1 /mnt
unzip sony_pjupdate_2015_7004_pjl_auth.zip
mv sony_dtv0FA30A07A0A7_00072900 /mnt
umount /mnt

You put the USB drive in the projector, power it on.
Indicator light on projector goes amber, you resist all tempatation to mess with it for 5-10 minutes,
then after the projector reboots itself multiple times, it will be sitting there with the red light.
You hit the power, and it's working again.
This should not be necessary. I upgraded a friends until using Windows 10 fat 32 with no problem. I think the issue may be the size of the drive. I suggest using an old 1-4 gb usb drive and it should work fine. I used the same drive I always use to update my Oppo and I had no problem. I know owners of Macs have had issues but this is the first one I have heard about using windows. You said you tried multiple drives but did not state the size or brand. I have had issues with some usb drives in the past. I have always found that smaller drives work best for upgrades.
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post #3555 of 3778 Old 03-11-2019, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by rwestley View Post
This should not be necessary. I upgraded a friends until using Windows 10 fat 32 with no problem. I think the issue may be the size of the drive. I suggest using an old 1-4 gb usb drive and it should work fine. I used the same drive I always use to update my Oppo and I had no problem. I know owners of Macs have had issues but this is the first one I have heard about using windows. You said you tried multiple drives but did not state the size or brand. I have had issues with some usb drives in the past. I have always found that smaller drives work best for upgrades.
I agree- I used a 4GB USB drive.

I think if you have an old USB drive and you just reformat it FAT 32 on Windows, your chances of it working are OK. If you have USB drives that have been low level reformatted on various operating systems, as all of mine have, you may have issues. I formatted at least 4 different drives as FAT 32 on Windows and none of them worked. Once I gave up formatting in Windows and went to Linux, it was fixed.
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post #3556 of 3778 Old 03-11-2019, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axel Olmos View Post
I agree- I used a 4GB USB drive.

I think if you have an old USB drive and you just reformat it FAT 32 on Windows, your chances of it working are OK. If you have USB drives that have been low level reformatted on various operating systems, as all of mine have, you may have issues. I formatted at least 4 different drives as FAT 32 on Windows and none of them worked. Once I gave up formatting in Windows and went to Linux, it was fixed.
I also think it might be worth a try doing a full format to FAT 32 rather than a quick format. I agree that the problem probably was that you have drives that were low level reformatted on various systems.
That is the reason why I keep a few old drives around that I know work for firmware updates. I don't want to go through the trouble that you had.
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post #3557 of 3778 Old 03-12-2019, 05:08 AM
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Sorry I've been away for a few months on this thread. Question: Other than support for Apple TV is there anything else in the firmware update that would be useful to me?


Many thanks.

Projector/Screen: Sony VPL-VW285ES; Da-Lite Cosmopolitan Electrol (92")
TV: LG OLED 65B6P
Amplification: Anthem MRX-1120; Aesthetix Mimas; Rogue Triton II
Sources: Pioneer UPD-LX500; Simaudio 260DT; Music Hall mmf-9.3; Goldring Eroica LX
Speakers: Wilson Yvette (L/R); Paradigm In-Walls (6); Hsu Research VTF-1 MK3 (2)
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post #3558 of 3778 Old 03-12-2019, 10:38 AM
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The firmware fixed a few other unnamed bugs and there have been reports of faster HDMI switching along with the Apple TV fix.
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post #3559 of 3778 Old 03-13-2019, 03:30 AM
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Hi,

Now that my main source (ATV4K) works well,... I think I should calibrate my projector.

I mean, I have done the SDR calibration before and that's pretty easy...

Does anyone do any sort of HDR calibration? .. Or maybe the approach of most users is to calibrate SDR and use the German Curves for HDR.

Has anyone replaced the bulb yet? ... Mine has about 1700 hours last time I checked. I know its "rated" for 6000 but I'm sure it's lost some brightness and think maybe I'll replace at 2000.

Finally... Anyone run the lamp on high? ... I get a good picture on low but maybe high does give the best contrast. I think if I did my setup based on High lamp I would need to build a hush box.

-Brian
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post #3560 of 3778 Old 03-13-2019, 03:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Hampton View Post
Hi,

Now that my main source (ATV4K) works well,... I think I should calibrate my projector.

I mean, I have done the SDR calibration before and that's pretty easy...

Does anyone do any sort of HDR calibration? .. Or maybe the approach of most users is to calibrate SDR and use the German Curves for HDR.

Has anyone replaced the bulb yet? ... Mine has about 1700 hours last time I checked. I know its "rated" for 6000 but I'm sure it's lost some brightness and think maybe I'll replace at 2000.

Finally... Anyone run the lamp on high? ... I get a good picture on low but maybe high does give the best contrast. I think if I did my setup based on High lamp I would need to build a hush box.

-Brian
I have helped a close friend with the 285 for about a year. He has a light controlled room and has been using the German Curves and is happy with them for HDR.
He also has an ATV and an Oppo player. The friend only has about 300 hours on the lamp but at 1700 hours it might be worth buying a new one.
The friend mostly uses low lamp mode. If you install the German curves be sure to follow the instructions and use all the recommended settings on the instructions.
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post #3561 of 3778 Old 03-13-2019, 05:10 AM
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Upgraded the firmware last night. Everything ran quite smoothly. I'll check out the overall HDMI switching performance tonight to see if there is a discernible improvement.


Thanks!
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Projector/Screen: Sony VPL-VW285ES; Da-Lite Cosmopolitan Electrol (92")
TV: LG OLED 65B6P
Amplification: Anthem MRX-1120; Aesthetix Mimas; Rogue Triton II
Sources: Pioneer UPD-LX500; Simaudio 260DT; Music Hall mmf-9.3; Goldring Eroica LX
Speakers: Wilson Yvette (L/R); Paradigm In-Walls (6); Hsu Research VTF-1 MK3 (2)
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post #3562 of 3778 Old 03-13-2019, 05:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by briandx View Post
Upgraded the firmware last night. Everything ran quite smoothly. I'll check out the overall HDMI switching performance tonight to see if there is a discernible improvement.


Thanks!
Do Let us know. I don't come to the thread much anymore as I am happily just watching movies on my projector. Thought I would check in and see what is new beyond the German Curves which I loaded up a long time ago. I actually have projector serial number 15! Still going strong with 1700 hours on the bulb and ALL in high power mode.

Sony 285es 4k , 16'6" from the screen. 142" Silver Ticket 2.35:1 A/T Screen. Yamaha RX-A3050, 7 Channel Outlaw Amp, 7.2.4 speaker layout. Triad Bronze L/C/R , Triad Silver Omni SE Surround(Sides), Triad Bipole Gold OnWall Rear, 4 Ceiling Silver Ticket Speakers. SVS PB2000 Subwoofer and a PB1000, Oppo. 203 player, XBox One X, Roku 4, Logitech remote, Alexa Controlled
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post #3563 of 3778 Old 03-13-2019, 05:30 PM
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well color me annoyed with this process

another mac user here so after trying, and failing to get it to work with several 1 gig flash drives, I took them to work, formatted them using the windows box we use as a server and...

neither of them work. (BTW, one was quick format, one full format just in case).

so I asked around the house and my son had an “old thumb drive” he found at grandpas house so I tried plugging that into the mac and copying it over and no dice. (side question here - do people believe that a drive even touching a mac will sour the deal, even if the drive was formatted FAT32 by a windows machine? cause even if so, both of the drives I tried at work were formatted by windows, file copied by windows and then plugged directly into the projector without touching a mac in the interim.)

my final plan is to pick up 2 completely new drives tomorrow near work, format one on the windows box, NOT format the other, copy the files to both and hope for the best.

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post #3564 of 3778 Old 03-14-2019, 04:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lateralis View Post
well color me annoyed with this process

another mac user here so after trying, and failing to get it to work with several 1 gig flash drives, I took them to work, formatted them using the windows box we use as a server and...

neither of them work. (BTW, one was quick format, one full format just in case).

so I asked around the house and my son had an “old thumb drive” he found at grandpas house so I tried plugging that into the mac and copying it over and no dice. (side question here - do people believe that a drive even touching a mac will sour the deal, even if the drive was formatted FAT32 by a windows machine? cause even if so, both of the drives I tried at work were formatted by windows, file copied by windows and then plugged directly into the projector without touching a mac in the interim.)

my final plan is to pick up 2 completely new drives tomorrow near work, format one on the windows box, NOT format the other, copy the files to both and hope for the best.


Ugh, sorry to hear. I know from experience that it's frustrating. I can bust your theory that a thumb drive that touches a Mac is tainted, though. I used Windows 10 running in Parallels on my MacBook to finally get my drive to register on the projector. Sorry, but good luck!
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post #3565 of 3778 Old 03-14-2019, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lateralis View Post
well color me annoyed with this process

another mac user here so after trying, and failing to get it to work with several 1 gig flash drives, I took them to work, formatted them using the windows box we use as a server and...

neither of them work. (BTW, one was quick format, one full format just in case).

so I asked around the house and my son had an “old thumb drive” he found at grandpas house so I tried plugging that into the mac and copying it over and no dice. (side question here - do people believe that a drive even touching a mac will sour the deal, even if the drive was formatted FAT32 by a windows machine? cause even if so, both of the drives I tried at work were formatted by windows, file copied by windows and then plugged directly into the projector without touching a mac in the interim.)

my final plan is to pick up 2 completely new drives tomorrow near work, format one on the windows box, NOT format the other, copy the files to both and hope for the best.

I used an 8 Gig flash drive that had been used exclusively on my Mac. I used the Mac to verify that it was FAT32 and then used the Mac to delete all existing files. I then put that drive in my PC and transferred the SONY file that had been downloaded on the PC to the drive. Put it in the projector and all went well. Update works fine as well.

SONY VPL-VW385ES, Da-Lite 92" 0.9 HD progressive 16x9 screen, Apple TV 4K, HDFury Integral 2, Oppo UDP 203, Panasonic DP-UB820, Anthem AVM 60, D-Sonic 4000 (800x3, 400x4) for bed layer, 2 Crown XLS 1002 (225x4) for Atmos; Speakers: Polk LSiM 705s, 703 front, 4 702F/X surround, 4 Polk TL3 (Atmos), Dual Velodyne DD15 Subwoofers.
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post #3566 of 3778 Old 03-14-2019, 09:14 AM
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well color me annoyed with this process

another mac user here so after trying, and failing to get it to work with several 1 gig flash drives, I took them to work, formatted them using the windows box we use as a server and...

neither of them work. (BTW, one was quick format, one full format just in case).

so I asked around the house and my son had an “old thumb drive” he found at grandpas house so I tried plugging that into the mac and copying it over and no dice. (side question here - do people believe that a drive even touching a mac will sour the deal, even if the drive was formatted FAT32 by a windows machine? cause even if so, both of the drives I tried at work were formatted by windows, file copied by windows and then plugged directly into the projector without touching a mac in the interim.)

my final plan is to pick up 2 completely new drives tomorrow near work, format one on the windows box, NOT format the other, copy the files to both and hope for the best.

I used an 8 Gig flash drive that had been used exclusively on my Mac. I used the Mac to verify that it was FAT32 and then used the Mac to delete all existing files. I then put that drive in my PC and transferred the SONY file that had been downloaded on the PC to the drive. Put it in the projector and all went well. Update works fine as well.

SONY VPL-VW385ES, Da-Lite 92" 0.9 HD progressive 16x9 screen, Apple TV 4K, HDFury Integral 2, Oppo UDP 203, Panasonic DP-UB820, Anthem AVM 60, D-Sonic 4000 (800x3, 400x4) for bed layer, 2 Crown XLS 1002 (225x4) for Atmos; Speakers: Polk LSiM 705s, 703 front, 4 702F/X surround, 4 Polk TL3 (Atmos), Dual Velodyne DD15 Subwoofers.
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post #3567 of 3778 Old 03-14-2019, 05:44 PM
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finally got it to work with a brand new drive from CVS that I didn’t format, just deleted what was on it and copied over the file. huzzah!

now to look into these german curves...
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post #3568 of 3778 Old 03-14-2019, 07:40 PM
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Do Let us know. I don't come to the thread much anymore as I am happily just watching movies on my projector. Thought I would check in and see what is new beyond the German Curves which I loaded up a long time ago. I actually have projector serial number 15! Still going strong with 1700 hours on the bulb and ALL in high power mode.
Did you measure your brightness over the time? I measured mine today at 480 hours (mostly in high mode), the brightness is still about the same as when it was new, maybe dropped by 2-3%. This really surprised me.
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post #3569 of 3778 Old 03-14-2019, 08:40 PM
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Did you measure your brightness over the time? I measured mine today at 480 hours (mostly in high mode), the brightness is still about the same as when it was new, maybe dropped by 2-3%. This really surprised me.

What tool are you using to measure the brightness? I just bought a new bulb and it will be here next week. It would be interesting to measure a before and after.

I have not noticed any dimming, but thought it might be time
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post #3570 of 3778 Old 03-14-2019, 08:46 PM
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What tool are you using to measure the brightness? I just bought a new bulb and it will be here next week. It would be interesting to measure a before and after.

I have not noticed any dimming, but thought it might be time
If you just want to compare brightness, the easiest way is to use an illuminance/light meter.
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