Sony VPL-VW285ES Owners Thread - Page 120 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3571 of 3789 Old 03-15-2019, 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Jue Liang View Post
If you just want to compare brightness, the easiest way is to use an illuminance/light meter.
Thanks, never used one before and I found some that are not too expensive on Amazon. Be interesting to at least have some measure of the difference rather than just "guessing" at it. There seems to be absolutely no data out there on the rate that these lamps start to degrade. Left to kind of guess on it. My son racked up a lot of hours on the projector playing video games. I finally got him a gaming PC, so we are no longer having to negotiate my movie time vs. his game playing time. This second bulb should go for years as I would guess i watch maybe 10 hours a week on the projector on average. Just for two or three movies a week and of course football season.

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post #3572 of 3789 Old 03-15-2019, 01:59 PM
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If you own this PJ please watch Aquaman on it.

The PQ is too amazing. And just keeps stunning from start to finish.

I feel like I haven't seen PQ like that from anything.
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post #3573 of 3789 Old 03-15-2019, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Hampton View Post
If you own this PJ please watch Aquaman on it.

The PQ is too amazing. And just keeps stunning from start to finish.

I feel like I haven't seen PQ like that from anything.

Yeah, but...Aquaman. No thanks.
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post #3574 of 3789 Old 03-15-2019, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by roland6465 View Post
Yeah, but...Aquaman. No thanks.
Really? ... I heard it got bad reviews but I really really really enjoyed it.

But... I guess if you already know without seeing it that you wouldn't like it then that makes sense too.
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post #3575 of 3789 Old 03-15-2019, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Hampton View Post
If you own this PJ please watch Aquaman on it.

The PQ is too amazing. And just keeps stunning from start to finish.

I feel like I haven't seen PQ like that from anything.

I guess you got it on iTunes? Do you find the quality close enough to 4k bluray? If I am going to purchase a movie I will usually wait for the 4k bluray not only to support the format but the added bitrate/quality. Might make an exception this weekend as I need something to watch!
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post #3576 of 3789 Old 03-16-2019, 12:15 AM
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You may want to wait for the disc.

I only have 8 UHD discs and about 260 in iTunes. The quality from disc should be better. I find the iTunes version quality to be great. I bet this disc will be outstanding though. Maybe partly the quality of the special effects is the reason.
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post #3577 of 3789 Old 03-16-2019, 02:19 AM
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I agree- I used a 4GB USB drive.

I think if you have an old USB drive and you just reformat it FAT 32 on Windows, your chances of it working are OK. If you have USB drives that have been low level reformatted on various operating systems, as all of mine have, you may have issues. I formatted at least 4 different drives as FAT 32 on Windows and none of them worked. Once I gave up formatting in Windows and went to Linux, it was fixed.
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I also think it might be worth a try doing a full format to FAT 32 rather than a quick format. I agree that the problem probably was that you have drives that were low level reformatted on various systems.
That is the reason why I keep a few old drives around that I know work for firmware updates. I don't want to go through the trouble that you had.
The free HP USB Disk formatter tool is a great way to reliably reformat a USB drive that had unknown file systems on it in the past:
https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/dow...e-format-tool/
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post #3578 of 3789 Old 03-16-2019, 02:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Brian Hampton View Post
Hi,

Now that my main source (ATV4K) works well,... I think I should calibrate my projector.

I mean, I have done the SDR calibration before and that's pretty easy...

Does anyone do any sort of HDR calibration? .. Or maybe the approach of most users is to calibrate SDR and use the German Curves for HDR.

Has anyone replaced the bulb yet? ... Mine has about 1700 hours last time I checked. I know its "rated" for 6000 but I'm sure it's lost some brightness and think maybe I'll replace at 2000.

Finally... Anyone run the lamp on high? ... I get a good picture on low but maybe high does give the best contrast. I think if I did my setup based on High lamp I would need to build a hush box.

-Brian
I recommend yo buy a cheap light meter. I have this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005A0ETXY/
I take measurements on my bulb every couple hundred hours and log them in a spreadsheet so I know where my bulb health is at. If your bulb is at 1700 hours and you've been entirely on low lamp, yo're probably good for another 1000 or so hours - assuming it still looks good to you. If it's a little dim you should kick it into high lamp and run it until you feel it looks dull and then swap it. Sony's bulbs are very hit and miss. Forget about 6000 hours. I think you're looking at about 1500 hours on high, 2700 hours on low (on average). You probably run around 2000 or so hours on low, switch into high and run another 700 or so hours and then swap the bulb and repeat.
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post #3579 of 3789 Old 03-16-2019, 05:09 AM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
I recommend yo buy a cheap light meter. I have this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005A0ETXY/
I take measurements on my bulb every couple hundred hours and log them in a spreadsheet so I know where my bulb health is at.
Good idea. I have a lux meter. I should get in the habit of logging the brightness.

(And a colormeter and a spectrometer. (i1ProRevD and i1d3))
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post #3580 of 3789 Old 03-16-2019, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Hampton View Post
If you own this PJ please watch Aquaman on it.

The PQ is too amazing. And just keeps stunning from start to finish.

I feel like I haven't seen PQ like that from anything.
Sounds like you picked the right projector for yourself

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Really? ... I heard it got bad reviews but I really really really enjoyed it.

But... I guess if you already know without seeing it that you wouldn't like it then that makes sense too.
I thought it was a good movie, but I am not real picky.....
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post #3581 of 3789 Old 03-18-2019, 08:57 AM
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Sony VPL-VW285ES Owners Thread

I purchased a light measurement tool and measured the light output for four different modes using the Disney WOW disc and contrast bars. I then put in the new bulb and re-measured.

The bulb had 1505 hours on it. I had the hours wrong from memory on the original post. All in High mode.

The bulb change was very easy and I did it without having to take the projector down from the ceiling.

With my son no longer playing games on it I estimate this will take me at least 3 years to use this many hours. By then, I probably will be looking to upgrade.

The improvements was 18 to 20 percent. The changed bulb was very clearly an improvement in picture. Felt like I just bought a new projector. For me, absolutely was worth doing! Hope this helps others.


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post #3582 of 3789 Old 03-18-2019, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by James Stephens 2 View Post
Thanks, never used one before and I found some that are not too expensive on Amazon. Be interesting to at least have some measure of the difference rather than just "guessing" at it. There seems to be absolutely no data out there on the rate that these lamps start to degrade. Left to kind of guess on it. My son racked up a lot of hours on the projector playing video games. I finally got him a gaming PC, so we are no longer having to negotiate my movie time vs. his game playing time. This second bulb should go for years as I would guess i watch maybe 10 hours a week on the projector on average. Just for two or three movies a week and of course football season.
You are welcome.

I just got myself a new gaming PC with 2080ti

I play games mostly on TVs with consoles and on PCs. I found 150 inch is too big for serious gaming.
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post #3583 of 3789 Old 03-18-2019, 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by James Stephens 2 View Post
I purchased a light measurement tool and measured the light output for four different modes using the Disney WOW disc and contrast bars. I then put in the new bulb and re-measured.

The bulb had 1505 hours on it. I had the hours wrong from memory on the original post. All in High mode.

The bulb change was very easy and I did it without having to take the projector down from the ceiling.

With my son no longer playing games on it I estimate this will take me at least 3 years to use this many hours. By then, I probably will be looking to upgrade.

The improvements was 18 to 20 percent. The changed bulb was very clearly an improvement in picture. Felt like I just bought a new projector. For me, absolutely was worth doing! Hope this helps others.


Hey James,
Can you give us the exact readings of your light meter? You may not realize that light is logrithmic, meaning that a difference of 1 EV is double the light. So if by 18-20% you mean you went from 10 to 12 EV, it would mean that your projector is putting out 4 times as much light. Thanks!
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post #3584 of 3789 Old 03-19-2019, 12:33 PM
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Hey James,
Can you give us the exact readings of your light meter? You may not realize that light is logrithmic, meaning that a difference of 1 EV is double the light. So if by 18-20% you mean you went from 10 to 12 EV, it would mean that your projector is putting out 4 times as much light. Thanks!
OK..I will, but understand I do not know much at all on this topic. Here were my readings all done with a light meter at the screen measuring Lumens. I basically walked the light meter across the screen and recorded the highest reading I obtained as I went against the contrast bars.

Original readings were:
1515 hours:
Film 1 - 270 lux
Film 2 - 285 lux
Ref -300 lux
TV - 190 lux

0 hour bulb
Film 1 - 323 lux
Film 2 - 358 lux
Ref - 366 lux
TV - 236 lux

Raw Percentage improvements...as I calculated them..
Film 1 16.4 percent (thinking I made a mistake on the measurements?)
Film 2 20 percent
Reference 18 percent
TV 19.5 percent



As I stated I know nothing much on this topic, but it does give some quantitative numbers for what it is worth. Again it was a fairly dramatic improvement, not subtle. Remember also that I zoomed the projector to fit a 16x9 image onto my 2.3x wide screen as that is how the WOW disk is formatted. Looking forward to hearing what this means to you.. as flawed as the measuring is. I was also wondering whether the "german" curves have any affect on the film 1 and 2 readings. Ref and TV setting are standard with no significant changes made to them.
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post #3585 of 3789 Old 03-19-2019, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by James Stephens 2 View Post
OK..I will, but understand I do not know much at all on this topic. Here were my readings all done with a light meter at the screen measuring Lumens. I basically walked the light meter across the screen and recorded the highest reading I obtained as I went against the contrast bars.

Original readings were:
1515 hours:
Film 1 - 270 lux
Film 2 - 285 lux
Ref -300 lux
TV - 190 lux

0 hour bulb
Film 1 - 323 lux
Film 2 - 358 lux
Ref - 366 lux
TV - 236 lux

Raw Percentage improvements...as I calculated them..
Film 1 16.4 percent (thinking I made a mistake on the measurements?)
Film 2 20 percent
Reference 18 percent
TV 19.5 percent



As I stated I know nothing much on this topic, but it does give some quantitative numbers for what it is worth. Again it was a fairly dramatic improvement, not subtle. Remember also that I zoomed the projector to fit a 16x9 image onto my 2.3x wide screen as that is how the WOW disk is formatted. Looking forward to hearing what this means to you.. as flawed as the measuring is. I was also wondering whether the "german" curves have any affect on the film 1 and 2 readings. Ref and TV setting are standard with no significant changes made to them.
This is very helpful. If you were measuring in LUX then I would say that you're measuring about a 20% increase in light with the new bulb vs your old one with 1500 hours. It's a little less change than going from a 75w lightbulb to a 100.
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post #3586 of 3789 Old 03-19-2019, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by SamEdwards View Post
This is very helpful. If you were measuring in LUX then I would say that you're measuring about a 20% increase in light with the new bulb vs your old one with 1500 hours. It's a little less change than going from a 75w lightbulb to a 100.
Ok, seems about that level. I did a fair amount of searching and could find nothing much about what to expect and when is it a good time to get another bulb. It seemed like around 1500 to 2000 is not a bad time to consider it if you really care about the picture and if you are projecting on to a larger screen size. Hope this helps out others when they come to that decision point. I would certainly guess if you are running on low mode you can easily go much further down the road on hours. I am happy I made the change because I love the extra "pop" I am getting.

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post #3587 of 3789 Old 03-30-2019, 11:29 AM
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Hi all !
Does anybody have the recommended setting for Oppo 203 Tone mapping ?
Both stock gamma curves and the German custom ones ?
Thanks !
Kind regards Per
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post #3588 of 3789 Old 04-04-2019, 07:04 AM
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Quick question I hope. I watched Aquaman and then the new Transformers moving last night. Aquaman was odd as part of the film was letterbox and then it switched to 16x9? Then Transformers, I was disappointed the entire movie was presented in 16x9 on a UHD disk! I have a 2.35 movie screen, so I prefer to zoom the letter box out and have it fit the screen and be cinematic. I read the verbiage on Transformers box and there is nothing to indicate the format. Both video's were UHD/HDR. Anything I can do in my settings to deal with this? See my configuration below.

Sony 285es 4k , 16'6" from the screen. 142" Silver Ticket 2.35:1 A/T Screen. Yamaha RX-A3050, 7 Channel Outlaw Amp, 7.2.4 speaker layout. Triad Bronze L/C/R , Triad Silver Omni SE Surround(Sides), Triad Bipole Gold OnWall Rear, 4 Ceiling Silver Ticket Speakers. SVS PB2000 Subwoofer and a PB1000, Oppo. 203 player, XBox One X, Roku 4, Logitech remote, Alexa Controlled
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post #3589 of 3789 Old 04-10-2019, 03:55 PM
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Quick question I hope. I watched Aquaman and then the new Transformers moving last night. Aquaman was odd as part of the film was letterbox and then it switched to 16x9? Then Transformers, I was disappointed the entire movie was presented in 16x9 on a UHD disk! I have a 2.35 movie screen, so I prefer to zoom the letter box out and have it fit the screen and be cinematic. I read the verbiage on Transformers box and there is nothing to indicate the format. Both video's were UHD/HDR. Anything I can do in my settings to deal with this? See my configuration below.
I would love to hear an expert confirm but I think Aquaman used IMAX aspect ratio for underwater scenes only which is close to letterbox. Not sure about Transformers.
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post #3590 of 3789 Old 04-12-2019, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James Stephens 2 View Post
Quick question I hope. I watched Aquaman and then the new Transformers moving last night. Aquaman was odd as part of the film was letterbox and then it switched to 16x9? Then Transformers, I was disappointed the entire movie was presented in 16x9 on a UHD disk! I have a 2.35 movie screen, so I prefer to zoom the letter box out and have it fit the screen and be cinematic. I read the verbiage on Transformers box and there is nothing to indicate the format. Both video's were UHD/HDR. Anything I can do in my settings to deal with this? See my configuration below.
I would love to hear an expert confirm but I think Aquaman used IMAX aspect ratio for underwater scenes only which is close to letterbox. Not sure about Transformers.
Aquaman had full and widescreen scenes, bumblebee was all full screen. Both amazing.

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post #3591 of 3789 Old 04-12-2019, 08:39 PM
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Aquaman had full and widescreen scenes, bumblebee was all full screen. Both amazing.
So...why do that do that (Aquaman) ? Mixing two formats in one movie? I have seen a few other movies like this, I just don't get why this is okay. Sure there is a story on this...

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post #3592 of 3789 Old 04-12-2019, 11:49 PM
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Marvel films are widescreen in the theater but we ‘protect for 16x9’ for home video. That’s what the experts say the people want.
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Marvel films are widescreen in the theater but we ‘protect for 16x9’ for home video. That’s what the experts say the people want.
What does protecting for 16x9 mean they do?
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post #3594 of 3789 Old 04-13-2019, 11:16 AM
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What does protecting for 16x9 mean they do?
Protecting for 16x9 means that they shoot, edit and post an image that is taller, top and bottom than what you will see in the theater. Microphones and lights are kept out of the top of the image, and dolly tracks, cables, and blocking markers are kept out of view on the ground.
A cropped version of the full image is displayed in theaters, and the full 16x9 image is used to create home video deliverables.
Many of these films are displayed at 1:185 in the theater, which isn’t that different from 16x9.
I guess my point is that you’re seeing more of the filmed image in home theater than you see in the theater. So it’s generally thought to be a less of a problem as in the old days of cropping widescreen movies for 4x3 tv.
Here are the technical stats for Aquaman...
https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1477834/technical
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post #3595 of 3789 Old 04-15-2019, 08:16 AM
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Hi,

yesterday i turned off the factory set zone panel alignment through the service menu.
I followed perfectly the instruction ( Set panel on Projector to "PRESET"- only 21 Option set to 0 and aligned the panel using 6-7-8-9 menu and saved to memory.
The result is ok ( test pattern ok )
But then i'can't use the panel alignment in the normal MENU of the projector (shift/zone) because when i set "ADJUST" instead of "PRESET" the Projector loses the alignment made before in the service menu.
I've read that after turning off the factory zone I'd be able to make fine adjustement in the normal ADJUST menu

Why?

Many thanks in advance

Luca
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post #3596 of 3789 Old 04-15-2019, 08:25 AM
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Disclaimer --> This is the first projector I have ever owned.


Now that we have that out of the way let me just say if I had to use one work to describe this projector it would be WOW. I did a lot of researched before I pulled the trigger on this projector and have had it up and running for a few months now. I watch it all on this projector, normal cable box TV, 4K DVD, DVD, Laserdisc and VHS.


What I wanted in a projector was good picture and brightness as I didn't want to always worry about being in a darken room to enjoy my HT. I have found this projector to be just that as I can put a movie on and have a lamp on in the back of the room and still have great picture quality.


Here's the kicker; I don't have a screen. I'm shooting a 135" picture against a very smooth wall painted with Benjamin Moore Whale Gray flat paint. I painted all my walls this color to darken the HT room that is about 17W (screen wall) x 23D ft. I'm using about 3/4 of that 23 for my HT. I didn't buy a screen initially because I wanted to shoot to the bare wall to figure out the screen size. My first thoughts were Holly Crap do I really need a screen?????? I can put up a 4K nature video from YouTube and the picture quality will blow your mind.....


I have had several friends look at my setup and they all say the same thing, why buy a screen when it looks that good on the wall.


Just my .02
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post #3597 of 3789 Old 04-16-2019, 07:43 PM
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( Set panel on Projector to "PRESET"- only 21 Option set to 0 and aligned the panel using 6-7-8-9 menu and saved to memory
I only used Option 21 (AREG/SERVICE ON) and set it to 0. I did not change any setting for Options 6,7,8,9, the instruction I read never said to change the 6-9 Options. You change panel alignment in regular User Mode settings.
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Last edited by brandon_k_w; 04-16-2019 at 07:48 PM.
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post #3598 of 3789 Old 04-17-2019, 03:57 AM
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I only used Option 21 (AREG/SERVICE ON) and set it to 0. I did not change any setting for Options 6,7,8,9, the instruction I read never said to change the 6-9 Options. You change panel alignment in regular User Mode settings.
Thanks,

I followed this post

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/86-ul...l#post55641710


Luca
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post #3599 of 3789 Old 04-24-2019, 03:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrDennis View Post
Disclaimer --> This is the first projector I have ever owned.

Here's the kicker; I don't have a screen. I'm shooting a 135" picture against a very smooth wall painted with Benjamin Moore Whale Gray flat paint. I painted all my walls this color to darken the HT room that is about 17W (screen wall) x 23D ft. I'm using about 3/4 of that 23 for my HT. I didn't buy a screen initially because I wanted to shoot to the bare wall to figure out the screen size. My first thoughts were Holly Crap do I really need a screen?????? I can put up a 4K nature video from YouTube and the picture quality will blow your mind.....


I have had several friends look at my setup and they all say the same thing, why buy a screen when it looks that good on the wall.


Just my .02
Nothing wrong with a painted wall for a screen. The only reason you would consider a "real" screen is for some improvement of picture quality but if you have a pleasing picture then you wouldn't be looking for a better one.
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post #3600 of 3789 Old 04-24-2019, 04:23 AM
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Originally Posted by lucama View Post
Hi,

yesterday i turned off the factory set zone panel alignment through the service menu.
I followed perfectly the instruction ( Set panel on Projector to "PRESET"- only 21 Option set to 0 and aligned the panel using 6-7-8-9 menu and saved to memory.
The result is ok ( test pattern ok )
But then i'can't use the panel alignment in the normal MENU of the projector (shift/zone) because when i set "ADJUST" instead of "PRESET" the Projector loses the alignment made before in the service menu.
I've read that after turning off the factory zone I'd be able to make fine adjustement in the normal ADJUST menu

Why?

Many thanks in advance

Luca
You need to make sure that user panel alignment is reset back to factory (option is in the user alignment menu section) and then set it to 'preset' before doing ANY other adjustments.
If done correctly, then user panel alignment should work as expected after the SM tweaks.
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