Official JVC - 20LTD - RS640 (x990/x9900) - RS540 (X790/x7900) - Owners Thread - Page 173 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5161 of 12238 Old 03-12-2018, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by mustang5o View Post
Does anyone have any information on installing the ceiling mount through a drop ceiling? Do I need to mount a piece of plywood or 2x4's between the ceiling joists to give the mount something to attach to at all 4 corners?

Also, how long are the power cords on these pj's?
You should mount the ceiling plate above the ceiling ( add plywood / framing as needed ), and then run the drop tube through the suspended ceiling panel. Chief makes trim rings -

http://www.chiefmfg.com/Products/CMA640W

Power cords are about 6 feet long.
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post #5162 of 12238 Old 03-12-2018, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig Peer View Post
You should mount the ceiling plate above the ceiling ( add plywood / framing as needed ), and then run the drop tube through the suspended ceiling panel. Chief makes trim rings -

http://www.chiefmfg.com/Products/CMA640W

Power cords are about 6 feet long.
Thanks! At least I was on the right track. Now I also have to plan for an outlet in the ceiling. That shouldn't be too difficult though.

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post #5163 of 12238 Old 03-12-2018, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post
I had the LS10K for a while and it is a very good projector (although I was not happy with the grey uniformity on four different units), but its eshift on 4K sources is clearly a step behind eshift 4 and especially 5. HDR is also generally handled better by the JVCs.
Here's my take:
Not sure if Epson upgraded e-shift on the LS10500 but for me it offered mixed results vs eshift4/5. On text like those brown fox samples, Epson looked like e-shift5 - no missing pixels and still legible text. On complex high frequency textures in movies, it often looked less sharp. On larger features like control panels it looked sharper than e-shift 5. No clear winner overall. Where the JVC pulled ahead regardless of e-shift was the lens and panel quality. Every Epson I've seen had visible convergence issues, even from seating distance, thus requiring zone correction. Focus has also been worse than your average JVC. Gray uniformity was okay in my experience but not as good as JVC. The main advantages of the Epson are zero e-shift buzzing noise and totally stable image without any pulsing, flickering, or dancing pixels. Their laser dimming also has fewer instances of gamma pumping compared to dynamic iris on JVC. They both suffer from vertical lens streaking and internal reflections but Epsons usually have fewer cases of bright corners.

Also, Epson is unusable for 1080p gaming. Too much lag and artifacts in "fast" processing mode. 4K lag seemed better subjectively so maybe a possible work-around.
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post #5164 of 12238 Old 03-12-2018, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by kjack99 View Post
I had one foot already in the jvc boat and calling these out helped. Now apart from extra 100 lumens which might help with an, ALR screen are there any other major improvements on the 990 that justify the price difference?
Give Mike Garrett or Craig Peer a call before you buy elsewhere. They sell projectors, and as you can tell, know what they're talking about.

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post #5165 of 12238 Old 03-12-2018, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wizziwig View Post
Here's my take:
Not sure if Epson upgraded e-shift on the LS10500 but for me it offered mixed results vs eshift4/5. On text like those brown fox samples, Epson looked like e-shift5 - no missing pixels and still legible text. On complex high frequency textures in movies, it often looked less sharp. On larger features like control panels it looked sharper than e-shift 5. No clear winner overall. Where the JVC pulled ahead regardless of e-shift was the lens and panel quality. Every Epson I've seen had visible convergence issues, even from seating distance, thus requiring zone correction. Focus has also been worse than your average JVC. Gray uniformity was okay in my experience but not as good as JVC. The main advantages of the Epson are zero e-shift buzzing noise and totally stable image without any pulsing, flickering, or dancing pixels. Their laser dimming also has fewer instances of gamma pumping compared to dynamic iris on JVC. They both suffer from vertical lens streaking and internal reflections but Epsons usually have fewer cases of bright corners.

Also, Epson is unusable for 1080p gaming. Too much lag and artifacts in "fast" processing mode. 4K lag seemed better subjectively so maybe a possible work-around.
I think much of my experience mirrors yours with the LS although I never looked at text closely. I found streaking quite good on the LS units I had - a bit better than the JVCs. I was looking at video content and movies with the eshift. I was A/B'ing some scenes with the UHD BD of Planet Earth (this was on my Epson QA hand picked LS unit and an RS400 I had here) and the RS400 was clearly sharper in motion. It really surprised me to be honest. This particular LS unit was excellent with focus and convergence was decent (even uncorrected) at least from 9.5 feet back. It had much better convergence compared to the other LS units where they were not very good. Some of the focus on the other units was questionable too with one being horrible. The grey uniformity just stood out to me too much even though it was considered "normal". If the grey was not an issue for me, I would have likely just kept the unit until I got a native 4K unit as the softer eshift was not a deal breaker. Bright corners were no issues. Fortunately, my current RS440 has no bright corner or grey uniformity issues and I like eshift5 - looks natural.
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post #5166 of 12238 Old 03-13-2018, 08:17 AM
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I tried putting the curves into the HDR profile and something else wasn't right, it was all blown out. Will have to take another look at it tonight. I also seem to have to tell the receiver to go into DIRECT mode otherwise I lose Atmos whenever it swaps profiles, which is annoying but ultimately not a big deal.

But despite those annoyances I am able to happily watch UHDS in HDR now. Coco was simply stunning. Waaaaaaay better than the theater where I saw it.

We did notice that Coco seemed to have motion sped up a bit, almost like watching video. Do you guys turn cinema enhance totally off? I saw the recommended settings were for low, which is where we had it when we watched Coco.

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post #5167 of 12238 Old 03-13-2018, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustang5o View Post
Thanks! At least I was on the right track. Now I also have to plan for an outlet in the ceiling. That shouldn't be too difficult though.
Just put the outlet above the ceiling and use an escutcheon in the ceiling to pass the power and HDMI cable through.
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post #5168 of 12238 Old 03-13-2018, 04:24 PM
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Any recommendations for a ceiling mount for the JVC (thinking fairly low profile)?
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post #5169 of 12238 Old 03-13-2018, 08:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kadath View Post
I tried putting the curves into the HDR profile and something else wasn't right, it was all blown out. Will have to take another look at it tonight. I also seem to have to tell the receiver to go into DIRECT mode otherwise I lose Atmos whenever it swaps profiles, which is annoying but ultimately not a big deal.



But despite those annoyances I am able to happily watch UHDS in HDR now. Coco was simply stunning. Waaaaaaay better than the theater where I saw it.



We did notice that Coco seemed to have motion sped up a bit, almost like watching video. Do you guys turn cinema enhance totally off? I saw the recommended settings were for low, which is where we had it when we watched Coco.


Make sure you’re actually using the curves. I used a custom slot to upload my curves but then the PJ switched to the default hdr mode and custom slot was was still on normal and I had to change it back to import.


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post #5170 of 12238 Old 03-14-2018, 09:13 AM
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What all chief mount parts do I need to buy for a fresh install. Have attic above the theater room with 9' ceiling.

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post #5171 of 12238 Old 03-14-2018, 09:34 AM
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For me, I bought a 790, the 385 was WAY more expensive, different price league altogether.
Resolution plays a part in perceived image quality but so does brightness and color and contrast.
Most experts feel resolution is important, but as you noted contrast and color accuracy is more important. That is what JVC's do best.....

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Any recommendations for a ceiling mount for the JVC (thinking fairly low profile)?
Peerless PRG

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post #5172 of 12238 Old 03-14-2018, 09:53 AM
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Any recommendations for a ceiling mount for the JVC (thinking fairly low profile)?
I'd recommend this - http://www.chiefmfg.com/Products/RPMA281

or this - http://www.chiefmfg.com/Products/RPA281

Get a Chief CMA101 ceiling plate and a 1 1/2" close nipple ( or 1", or 2" ) from Home Depot to connect the two parts. Done.
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post #5173 of 12238 Old 03-14-2018, 12:01 PM
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Cheif RPAU

Peerless PRG
RPAU will not work on any of the JVC projectors, manufactured after 2010.
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post #5174 of 12238 Old 03-14-2018, 02:33 PM
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I'm likely getting a 540 or 640. I have a question about the feature that allows you to preset zoom positions. Can the projector move the image up or down as it zooms to an automatic position? For example, if I get a 2.07:1 screen, can the projector zoom the 2:35:1 content to the top or the bottom of the screen instead of to the middle?

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post #5175 of 12238 Old 03-14-2018, 02:47 PM
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Cheif RPAU

Peerless PRG
If the Peerless PRG is a good option for these projectors it would seem that, plus their CMJ470 ceiling mount and an extension would be about the least expensive mount option for use with my drop ceiling. Maybe...

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post #5176 of 12238 Old 03-14-2018, 03:20 PM
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I'm likely getting a 540 or 640. I have a question about the feature that allows you to preset zoom positions. Can the projector move the image up or down as it zooms to an automatic position? For example, if I get a 2.07:1 screen, can the projector zoom the 2:35:1 content to the top or the bottom of the screen instead of to the middle?
Yep, as long as you're within the lens shift range.
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post #5177 of 12238 Old 03-15-2018, 08:57 AM
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If the Peerless PRG is a good option for these projectors it would seem that, plus their CMJ470 ceiling mount and an extension would be about the least expensive mount option for use with my drop ceiling. Maybe...
Cheapest route is to build a box out of 3/4" plywood at about 18" tall, by 24", by 24". Paint it black, that would fit "most" projector's.

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post #5178 of 12238 Old 03-15-2018, 09:51 AM
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Cheapest route is to build a box out of 3/4" plywood at about 18" tall, by 24", by 24". Paint it black, that would fit "most" projector's.
So it would just be sitting upright like placing it on a shelf? I have thought about something like this for keeping the fan from becoming annoying but I was concerned with heat. Because I have a low drop ceiling I could leave some(maybe all) open at the top to allow heat to rise up and not stay boxed in. If I used a normal ceiling mount I may place venting in the ceiling tile right above the PJ to allow for the same thing. Plus leaving the heating vent closest to it closed in the winter time.

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post #5179 of 12238 Old 03-15-2018, 10:04 AM
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So it would just be sitting upright like placing it on a shelf? I have thought about something like this for keeping the fan from becoming annoying but I was concerned with heat. Because I have a low drop ceiling I could leave some(maybe all) open at the top to allow heat to rise up and not stay boxed in. If I used a normal ceiling mount I may place venting in the ceiling tile right above the PJ to allow for the same thing. Plus leaving the heating vent closest to it closed in the winter time.
Ventilation is a good idea. An in line duct fan to draw exhaust air away isn't too expensive.
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post #5180 of 12238 Old 03-15-2018, 10:29 AM
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Ventilation is a good idea. An in line duct fan to draw exhaust air away isn't too expensive.
That might be doable. Would plugging an in line duct fan on the same circuit as the projector cause issues?

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post #5181 of 12238 Old 03-15-2018, 11:48 AM
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That might be doable. Would plugging an in line duct fan on the same circuit as the projector cause issues?
Generally speaking they need to be hard wired, with a 110 volt variable speed switch.
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post #5182 of 12238 Old 03-15-2018, 09:11 PM
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Generally speaking they need to be hard wired, with a 110 volt variable speed switch.
I saw several that had regular 3 prong plugs. That would definitely make it easier.

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post #5183 of 12238 Old 03-16-2018, 11:48 AM
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Any recommendation about a shelf or a variable length mount that can clear the ceiling fan? See the attached pictures of the wall where screen will go and the opposite side where I plan on mounting the projector.
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post #5184 of 12238 Old 03-16-2018, 11:54 AM
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Any recommendation about a shelf or a variable length mount that can clear the ceiling fan? See the attached pictures of the wall where screen will go and the opposite side where I plan on mounting the projector.
With the Chief mounts, you just buy what ever length drop tube you need.
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post #5185 of 12238 Old 03-16-2018, 12:04 PM
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With the Chief mounts, you just buy what ever length drop tube you need.
Thank you. Any suggestions about a shelf? The only reservation I have regarding ceiling mount is that I'll have to run power and HDMI up there, which will probably easier on a shelf.

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post #5186 of 12238 Old 03-16-2018, 12:25 PM
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Thank you. Any suggestions about a shelf? The only reservation I have regarding ceiling mount is that I'll have to run power and HDMI up there, which will probably easier on a shelf.

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Probably better posted in the construction section, you will get more people looking at it and more ideas.


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post #5187 of 12238 Old 03-16-2018, 12:29 PM
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Question Anyone have a link to the newb guide to HDR controls?

short version: Things like picture mode (BT2020 vs HDR), picture tone, dark level, etc are new to me. The front page has some great sample numbers, but I would love an explanation of them (especially as they apply to Oppo vs non-Oppo, various UHD input types).

Long version:
I'm _loving_ my 540, yay us! And thank you all for the rec. I just got a Sony x700 as a first 4k player (rationalization being I can get an Oppo later and it will be great as a second unit). The HDR looked super-poppy on the quick bedroom test on the LG Oled... and it looked amazing on the 540 -- except when it's too dark. For the first time I actually feel like I have a theater, rather than a really big TV -- it's like the movies... except when it's too dark.

So, I'd love to be able to understand the tweaking so I can tweak it up occasionally (based on source material or occasional sub-par light control). Sometimes I just think HDR isn't worth the lack of pop... so I think I understand the attraction to the Oppo 203 ignore meta feature.

Currently, my JVC automatically goes to HDR mode, with the basic HDR settings. If I change the Color Profile from HDR to BT.2020 it gets brighter (the input is 2020, so I don't understand why that isn't the default profile used, or the difference between them). If I change the Gamma off HDR to Custom then everything gets brighter/washed-out and throws off color.

Anyway, the basic question is there a nice place to read up on all this stuff rather than eaking out tidbits from threads. Like, what is the equivalent to the old "brightness" -- if I want to bring up the black level at the expense of contrast so I can see in the dark? Like if you wanted to cheap on an HDR game?

Thanks in advance for any and all help. I know it's a ramble... I really am just looking for a writeup on every control and how they interact with the different UHD input types.


(FYI... my screen is almost surely too big for proper HDR with a 540, so part of understanding is so I can fix for this with minimum damage).

Last edited by Gettingold; 03-16-2018 at 12:36 PM. Reason: more info
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post #5188 of 12238 Old 03-16-2018, 01:55 PM
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There is no color profile called "HDR", at least on the x20 models
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post #5189 of 12238 Old 03-16-2018, 02:46 PM
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There is no color profile called "HDR", at least on the x20 models
On the x40 models there is.

Its just a colour profile targeting Rec2020 without the use of the P3 filter.

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post #5190 of 12238 Old 03-17-2018, 07:53 AM
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Thank you. Any suggestions about a shelf? The only reservation I have regarding ceiling mount is that I'll have to run power and HDMI up there, which will probably easier on a shelf.
Build that box 18" X 24" X 24" out of 3/4" plywood that I mentioned. Put a back on the box out of 3/4" plywood or a header running across the top using a 2" by 4". Mount her up with lag bolts into your wall studs or tap cons if you are going into concrete. If done right you could put more weight than a projector in there. Don't forget to vent the box if you are mounting to the wall.
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