How I setup my JVC RS540 as a beginner/newbie to the JVC world. This is basically a summary of what I’ve done to achieve a picture that I’m super happy with for SDR and HDR content. I’ve spent hundreds of hours on the autocal thread, older JVC threads, and this thread. I don’t claim to have created any of this, just summarizing for the sake of other newbies. I had two different Epson projectors before this one, and basically unpacked them, installed them, found the profile I liked most and dialed that in with the Spears and Munsil 2nd Edition disc. That’s my background before the JVC. It’s been a lot more work getting this dialed in but the end result is far superior. Out of the box THX mode was great for SDR. HDR took some work.
Calibration thread, not specific to our models but tons of info on Autocal and gamma curves. Start on page 1 for stickies:
Javs How-to-guide for installing his curves (my favorites so far)
Light meter. This was recommended to me by other forum members, I’m sure there are better/more expensive ones out there:
I used a Spyder 5 Express, same hardware as the more expensive models except for the ambient light sensor which I didn’t use.
The autocal and custom curve processes are related but setup independently and don’t need to be re-run when you change the other. The uploaded curve is based on the ‘normal’ gamma curve, so calibrate that and the custom curves will use the calibrated gamma as their starting point. If you do a ‘touch-up’ calibration along the way you won’t need to touch the curves.
I were starting from scratch today this is what I would do:
Get some bulb time, 50-100 hours before auto-calibration. I’d probably go ahead and install the custom curves for HDR content while waiting.
I setup autocal per the JVC instructions, connected directly to my laptop with ethernet. I setup Gamma+Color high quality, 33 steps. Many folks don’t trust the Spyder for color and do gamma only. I live on the edge… I can’t verify it’s accuracy but I like how the picture looks, good enough for me.
Figure out what modes/iris settings/CMD settings you are using for SDR and HDR content. You will need to calibrate each iris position and CMD on/off setting for each mode, so you’ll save some time by only calibrating what you need. I initially dialed in my manual iris by eye and after I bought the light meter I was actually pretty close. I made a quick and dirty excel calculator to convert lux to foot lamberts (fl)/nits based on my screen size and gain. I used the 100% IRE pattern on the SM disc for a white field. I have a 120” 16:9 1.1 screen.
For SDR content I ended up with iris at -10 (~17fl), I initially calibrated the Cinema 1, 6500, normal gamma settings but later uploaded Manni’s rec709 color profile (See calibration thread) and calibrated that, I was much happier with the rec709 (with filter) profile. My blu rays have never looked so good.
For HDR I ended up at -5 with a target of 30fl on low lamp. I use this for most of my casual, only me HDR viewing. For movie night with friends and family I use high lamp but at the same iris setting for extra punch. I calibrated both HDR low and high lamp at this iris setting. Many folks run iris wide open (I think they are on older PJs/bulbs with less lumens). Wide open was too bright for animated/bright movies. This will vary baed on your lamp/environment.
I use CMD on low for everything so I would run three autocals: rec709, HDR low, HDR high. All with gamma set to normal for calibration.
Still with me?
I won’t repeat all of Javs information. I installed his v3 curves, 1200nit and 4000nit, into my custom GAMMA slots 1 and 2. I leave my Custom USER mode 1 as my ‘HDR import mode’ as the ARVE tool reports lots of errors unless you use the custom slots. Auto iris is off. all enhancements are off. Gamma Custom is set to import. I use this to import and dial in my BBO levels.
Then, I setup the PJs default HDR USER mode as my main HDR mode, BT2020 color, low lamp, auto 1 iris (-5), CMD low, clear black low, Enhance 3, Custom slot 2 import (4000nit curve). Thats what loads up automatically with HDR content. When friends are over I click the lamp over to high but leave everything else untouched. Colors are more saturated, the overall image brightness isn’t significantly increased but the highlights are brighter and have more pop in high lamp mode.
Hope that helps.