From reading this thread, it's my understanding that the exisiting HDR color profiles, HDR & BT2020, are the same as the Rec-2020 no filter & filter profiles, respectively however, none of the existing SDR color profiles are equivalent to Rec-709 no filter & filter profiles.

Is this accurate?

The custom profiles are actually initialized to Rec709 (no filter).

So, are you saying that the only color profile that would need to be uploaded is the Rec709 filter?

So, are you saying that the only color profile that would need to be uploaded is the Rec709 filter?

It was actually a guess because I'm not on my calibration laptop, but Javs built his standard curves for something in the 115 to 125 nit range. He has discussed it in this thread. the curve is a literal mapping of values, 1000 nit on the disk = 100 nit on the screen. 900 nit on the disk = 98 nit on the screen. .05 nit on the disk = .15 nit on the screen. etc. It's not linear, the top and bottom end roll off gently and then hard clip at black and whatever peak nits (1200/4000).

You can get an idea from the bm value that is listed when you load the curve in Arves, but the interaction of bm and bw values is relative, so bm may not be actual max brightness. I fall back on, "because he said so."



I'm just saying it is the first, obvious thing to try. You got improvement from the first curve set but it wasn't quite right, so try a brighter set more suited to your configuration.

It may help you to read more about how the curves work, in general. Lots to learn in the calibration threads.

Black compensation is incorporated into the curve. No additional steps required.

It’s getting more and more obvious to me that I cannot watch HDR on my RS-540 because it’s too dark. Am I missing something here? I’m using the custom gamma from Javs, and everything appears set correctly.

Bright scenes are really bright. But anything dark in the scene is almost completely devoid of detail. It’s especially easy to tell when I have the original BD and the UHD and do back-to-back comparisons.

Any thoughts?

A Panasonic ub820 with a couple ticks up on black tone should do the trick.

I use +1 or+2 on the dynamic slider, -1 on white tone, and +2 on black tone. Set the output to SDR 2020 (which still sends HDR, but makes your DI work).

Looks great on both dark and bright scenes.

The factory curve is in my opinion completely unusable. Words simply can't express how bad HDR is out of the box. There are basically just no trees visible, here. And yes, these trees are meant to be seen. This isn't like some people wanting to resolve the camera guys in the shadows by cranking brightness. This is just having a usable scene (and I really do know the difference!).

The factory default assumes a certain screen size. You can get much better results by using the Picture Level, Dark Level, Bright Level settings as I suggested previously. Use the Large Screen settings if you prefer bright pictures.

Yes, of course! But, again - out of the box the results should be usable, and they're not. Not at any brightness. Nobody's expecting perfection out of the box. The difference between my color-calibrated LCD monitors before and after is huge, but they're at least "usable" for any kinds of media.

In any case, thank you again for the help.

The luminance levels of direct view monitors are determined entirely by the monitor settings. With projectors the screen is unknown to the projector manufacturer; a 92" screen is twice as bright as a 130" screen, which makes a huge difference, especially for HDR. And other factors such as throw distance, screen gain can further affect the brightness.

It was actually a guess because I'm not on my calibration laptop, but Javs built his standard curves for something in the 115 to 125 nit range. He has discussed it in this thread. the curve is a literal mapping of values, 1000 nit on the disk = 100 nit on the screen. 900 nit on the disk = 98 nit on the screen. .05 nit on the disk = .15 nit on the screen. etc. It's not linear, the top and bottom end roll off gently and then hard clip at black and whatever peak nits (1200/4000).

You can get an idea from the bm value that is listed when you load the curve in Arves, but the interaction of bm and bw values is relative, so bm may not be actual max brightness. I fall back on, "because he said so."

I'm just saying it is the first, obvious thing to try. You got improvement from the first curve set but it wasn't quite right, so try a brighter set more suited to your configuration.

It may help you to read more about how the curves work, in general. Lots to learn in the calibration threads.

You're going to have to get it fixed or replaced. Your lamp iris is broken. Quite a lot of us have had this. If you provide more details I can add you to the below list for morbid curiosity sake.



Indeed, I will do it for him Current list below.

For what it is worth the more I use even my new, working unit, the more I think the iris drive logic is broken in several ways.
I've noticed a couple of times when switching to my first HDR title after power on the iris makes a quick "false move" - like it hits the end stop and comes back.

I believe (need to do some experiments) that if the unit powers off with the iris in HDR mode (at say iris 0) and then powers back on with SDR input (which would usually correspond to iris -9 for me) it doesn't always (maybe ever) move the lamp iris back to the correct -9 location for the corresponding SDR mode - it is like the projector doesn't know where the iris actually is. I think what then happens is you try to play HDR and it thinks it needs to drive the iris mech further to 0 (but it is already at 0!) and bounces off the end stop. The subsequent iris changes work fine.

Current list of users with failed irises:

@bobof UK, X7900, Fail 22/Jul/2018 @ 95hrs, Manuf 04/2018, SN 09340455, REPLACED
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...l#post56524896

@TKNice US, ?, Fail ?? @ a few hundred hrs, Manuf ?, SN ?, REPLACED
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...l#post56499926

@br0d0 Australia, X7900, Fail 14/Jul/2018 @ 52hrs, Manuf 01/2018, SN 06340278, REPAIRED
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...l#post56488090

@coxy2416 Canada, X790, Fail 20/May/2018 @ 20hrs, Manuf 04/2018, SN 09340399, REPLACED
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...l#post56525152

@JJ7 USA, RS540, Fail 29/Dec/2017 @ 20hrs, Manuf Nov 2017, SN 162402xx, REPLACED
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...l#post55396160

@ScottAvery US, RS540, Fail 25/Jul/2018 @ 134hrs, Manuf ?, SN ?, failure hasn't stuck hard like most
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...l#post56540012

@BdoUK , USA, RS540, Fail 21/Sept/2018 @ 350hrs, Manuf 01/2018, SN 06340302, Still with user, https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...l#post56847266

@jackshi , ?, RS540, Fail @ 1week old, Manuf?, SN?, REPLACED, https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...l#post56847666

@jwhart , USA, X990, hrs?, Manuf?, SN?, Outcome?, https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...l#post57200020

@rlarsen462 , USA, X990, hrs?, Manuf?, SN?, Outcome?, https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...l#post57257192

Count me in as another "stuck iris" victim. ChadB is over today to calibrate my RS640. Iris first stuck at -14 or -15. He was able to get it back to 0 but it appears to be stuck there now. ChadB said that my iris was noisier than average. I only have 90 hours on the projector, and the calibration session has been a waste.

Thanks, Javs, for chiming in. I went with your 85-nit curves for now. Is there any downside to black compensation? If not, maybe it's better for me to use Dominic's 85-nit curves?

Give it a go and see for yourself. Put two similar curves in Custom 1/2 for eg, and just switch back and forth instantly between the two and you can compare.

It will be great on very dark scenes, but may slightly 'flatten' out the image depth on some other scenes. I did try it out once, but didn't stick with it.

I am not using curves at all anymore, I am using MadVR tone mapping, but that doesn't support all HDR sources, so I fall back to my 85 nit curves if I am using some other HDR source. But currently I dont have too much of an issue with dark scenes, there are some which are going to be trouble no matter what like that Revenant scene.

Count me in as another "stuck iris" victim. ChadB is over today to calibrate my RS640. Iris first stuck at -14 or -15. He was able to get it back to 0 but it appears to be stuck there now. ChadB said that my iris was noisier than average. I only have 90 hours on the projector, and the calibration session has been a waste.

Ok, thats not good. What is your setup? Does it do this no matter the source?

What are your other settings. Run through all your settings.

Count me in as another "stuck iris" victim. ChadB is over today to calibrate my RS640. Iris first stuck at -14 or -15. He was able to get it back to 0 but it appears to be stuck there now. ChadB said that my iris was noisier than average. I only have 90 hours on the projector, and the calibration session has been a waste.

JVC should give you a repair vs. replace option. I ended up taking the replacement because they were still going to charge me to ship my unit back and that was going to be very cost prohibitive. However with you in NoCal it might make more sense to get a repair if Chad was able to complete his calibration work.

Count me in as another "stuck iris" victim. ChadB is over today to calibrate my RS640. Iris first stuck at -14 or -15. He was able to get it back to 0 but it appears to be stuck there now. ChadB said that my iris was noisier than average. I only have 90 hours on the projector, and the calibration session has been a waste.

Sorry for the noob question,

I read first post and see multiple gamma setting but not quite understand these value,

Picture Tone
Dark Level
Bright Level

Should I change on white only or all other colors at same value?

Just so you guys know, I did just upload the 85-nit curves to the projector.

Wow. Major differences here in the shadows. No, this isn't a pro camera taking these quick shots, but these quite realistically show the difference in the shadows that I now see, - right above the vehicle.

Factory: ST.2084:



Javs v3 standard:



Javs 85-nit:




The factory curve is in my opinion completely unusable. Words simply can't express how bad HDR is out of the box. There are basically just no trees visible, here. And yes, these trees are meant to be seen. This isn't like some people wanting to resolve the camera guys in the shadows by cranking brightness. This is just having a usable scene (and I really do know the difference!).

The Javs v3 are better, but still not bright enough in the shadows in a few places. Certainly leagues ahead of the factory setup.

The 85-nit is much more in line with what I would expect it to look. I'll need to get some more movie time in now, but this is a significant improvement. I uploaded using the Autocal software - took just a minute or two.

Thank you all for the help. I know with further diving into this I could probably improve, but for now I'm much happier.

What movie is that? I would like to test against my settings.