Official JVC - 20LTD - RS640 (x990/x9900) - RS540 (X790/x7900) - Owners Thread - Page 356 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #10651 of 12012 Old 01-29-2019, 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
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Originally Posted by coxy2416 View Post
I currently do not have 4K bluray player hooked up to my system to try that out. I never use to have any issues with the iris playing the MKV tips. It’s only been over the last few months that this has appeared.

I have switched it to manual after this issue and tried opening the iris up to “0” but the iris did not fully open even thought it showed fully open on the menu. I could still see a diamond shape. It obviously had lost track of where it was.
How was your projector mounted? Mine was in my shelf mount. I wonder if JVC just set it on a table. Perhaps we aren't giving these enough air flow.
My projector is ceiling mounted so inverted. I asked JVC how they were testing and they said they tried it in both orientations.

My projector has plenty of airflow around it.
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post #10652 of 12012 Old 01-29-2019, 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Bytehoven View Post
I thought i might relay on observation i had last night.

I re watched, Avengers Ultron, Thor Ragnarok and Infinity War. It was a long night.

I have been running sdr-709, sdr-HDR(color profile) and sdr-2020 in manual iris mode (-5) for quite awhile.

I watched the opening of Infinity War several times in manual iris, auto 1 and auto 2 to observe differences.

In both auto 1 and auto 2, after the marvel logo animation, there is the black out and slow reveal coming around a planet to see the derelect ship. Auto 1 and auto 2, both make for a complete black out, maintaining very deep blacks as the scene evolves. Manual iris does not reach a complete black out, but it is very good. So in this opening section, DI offers a clear advantage, but frankly while most other projectors absolutely need a dynamic iris here, the 990 does extremely well without it.

In the later part of the opening with Ebony Maw walking among the perished Asgardians, as he walk thru the scene, there are again notable differences between DI on and off. With DI on, everything about some of the scenes are dimmed, including the fires in the room and some other object highlights. With DI off in manual mode, the scene is almost indistinguishable as far as the dark parts of the scene, but the fires and object highlights are brighter and more dynamic.

At various points, higher scene APLs remove all DI dimming, but it is in the areas between, where various amounts of DI dimming reveal the true pros and cons of DI.

It is with respect to this range of differences in DI on and off performances, that i really appreciate the native contrast performance of the 540/790 & 640/990 projectors.

Our projectors can achieve a level of lower end image reproduction without the need of DI, which others projectors fall short of even with use of DI.

The experience just reinforces for me, my desire for my next projector to increase the native contrast of our projectors, while increasing resolution and improving any other image attributes.

I have yet to see a DI make up for a short fall in native contrast, without including some of the by products of DI mentioned above.

While current NX models take some interesting steps forward, i look forward to future generations of jvc lamp and laser platforms which feature contrast performance less reliant on either dynamic iris or dynamic dimming.

Ps... i did not even go into artifacts associated with what DI does with image processing to brighten up areas of the image, in order to compensate for the overall dimming. Or as one member might sum it up, it sucks.
This is very helpful Byte, thanks. So what is your recomendation then? I understand its a long drawn out debate but what do you personally prefer.

@Chad B was out in October and calibrated my 640. He leaves DI set to manual (off) but notes on his Cal Report that 'manual or auto' is acceptable.

Specifically for UHD HDR BD - DI on or off?

So the DI processes other parts of the picture, making them brighter, in an attempt to offset the inherent darker image it produces?

Think I'll stick with the calibrated settings from Chad 'manual' and be done with it hehe
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post #10653 of 12012 Old 01-29-2019, 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by coxy2416 View Post
I currently do not have 4K bluray player hooked up to my system to try that out. I never use to have any issues with the iris playing the MKV tips. It’s only been over the last few months that this has appeared.

I have switched it to manual after this issue and tried opening the iris up to “0” but the iris did not fully open even thought it showed fully open on the menu. I could still see a diamond shape. It obviously had lost track of where it was.
Uh-oh, yes, if you switch it to manual and see it moving at each step as you approach 0, yet when you get to 0 it hasn't fully opened then either it isn't moving far enough each step or it has somehow got out of sync. If you can't even get the iris fully open in manual at 0 then you can give up on getting the DI to work properly; because the DI applies specific processing to the image which has to be aligned to the iris position. So it will be doomed.
Not to mention you're losing light output because your iris isn't opening fully.

I wonder if a mechanical problem has got it into this state, or whether somehow there is a route that is capable of unsynchronizing the lens iris too...
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post #10654 of 12012 Old 01-29-2019, 06:32 AM
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Can someone tell me how to fill the entire screen with white, red, blue, etc using R. Masciola? I'm trying to evaluate the brightness across my entire screen and need a solid color.

I can use youtube 'white screen' mirrored through Apple TV but this not an accurate approach I assume?
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post #10655 of 12012 Old 01-29-2019, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by bobof View Post
Uh-oh, yes, if you switch it to manual and see it moving at each step as you approach 0, yet when you get to 0 it hasn't fully opened then either it isn't moving far enough each step or it has somehow got out of sync. If you can't even get the iris fully open in manual at 0 then you can give up on getting the DI to work properly; because the DI applies specific processing to the image which has to be aligned to the iris position. So it will be doomed.
Not to mention you're losing light output because your iris isn't opening fully.

I wonder if a mechanical problem has got it into this state, or whether somehow there is a route that is capable of unsynchronizing the lens iris too...
One can see a diamond shape when Iris is not fully opened? Can you expand on this Bob?
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post #10656 of 12012 Old 01-29-2019, 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by coxy2416 View Post
I currently do not have 4K bluray player hooked up to my system to try that out. I never use to have any issues with the iris playing the MKV tips. It’s only been over the last few months that this has appeared.

I have switched it to manual after this issue and tried opening the iris up to “0” but the iris did not fully open even thought it showed fully open on the menu. I could still see a diamond shape. It obviously had lost track of where it was.
Uh-oh, yes, if you switch it to manual and see it moving at each step as you approach 0, yet when you get to 0 it hasn't fully opened then either it isn't moving far enough each step or it has somehow got out of sync. If you can't even get the iris fully open in manual at 0 then you can give up on getting the DI to work properly; because the DI applies specific processing to the image which has to be aligned to the iris position. So it will be doomed.
Not to mention you're losing light output because your iris isn't opening fully.

I wonder if a mechanical problem has got it into this state, or whether somehow there is a route that is capable of unsynchronizing the lens iris too... [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif[/IMG]
Once I reboot the projector the Iris is able to open wide and works properly. I just have to keep the DI in manual for the HDR content.
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post #10657 of 12012 Old 01-29-2019, 07:02 AM
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One can see a diamond shape when Iris is not fully opened? Can you expand on this Bob?
This image shows the approximate lens iris pattern visible through the lens for various settings:

(not my image, taken from here:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...n-writeup.html)

The lens iris is a set of 4 blades which form a progressively smaller diamond shape as they close. At the most open setting of 0 the blades shouldn't be visible. You can see the lens iris in the lens quite easily. Don't look directly into the lens as it hurts, but look from a little bit of an angle to the side of the lens.
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post #10658 of 12012 Old 01-29-2019, 07:06 AM
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Once I reboot the projector the Iris is able to open wide and works properly. I just have to keep the DI in manual for the HDR content.
It obviously stops working properly though at some point? Can you resume play to those same scenes and every time they will be broken? Or do they work sometimes?
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post #10659 of 12012 Old 01-29-2019, 07:19 AM
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Once I reboot the projector the Iris is able to open wide and works properly. I just have to keep the DI in manual for the HDR content.
It obviously stops working properly though at some point? Can you resume play to those same scenes and every time they will be broken? Or do they work sometimes?
At the moment I can make the pumping happen every time.

I am going to take my Nvidia Shield to my dealer and try playing some content on their X790 to see if there are any issues. If there are no pumping issues then that would point to my projector as being the issue.

If there are pumping issue we are going to try a different HDMI cable. If that still doesn’t work then it may be my Nvidia Shield causing the issue.
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post #10660 of 12012 Old 01-29-2019, 07:29 AM
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Moving this here where it won't get in the way of the other thread.

You missed out one crucial detail. You don't say that you HEARD the lamp iris move back to the SDR position. It can't move back without making its characteristic noise. I'm contending that you didn't hear it move back because... perhaps it didn't.

Doing the above did you hear the lamp iris move back on playing 1080 SDR?

Another detail, what is your serial number on your 640?
Yes. Checked both ways. I have manual iris at -6 for SDR and 0 for HDR. Going from SDR playing then shut down projector while SDR is playing. Then play HDR and start up projector, if what you say is true, my projector should be on -6 for the iris. It was not. It was on 0. And to confirm that the iris setting was truly 0. I was able to go to -15 and back to 0. I also tried it the other way and iris was -6. Again I was able to move the iris the full spectrum from starting point of -6 to 0 and to -15. It is not a programing issue. Get others to test and revise your posts, once others confirm. My 640 is not a newer 640. Serial number is 16240138.
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post #10661 of 12012 Old 01-29-2019, 07:34 AM
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I don't think yours would behave any differently to mine. Of course no-one can know when and how or if it has been addressed until someone with a newer unit checks.

In terms of checking if your iris is basically* "sane" at the moment, the only test you can really do is take your iris all the way up to 0 from the UI, then all the way down to -15. Do it slowly. The lamp iris moves every other click of the manual control, you should hear it move in a continuous motion - it doesn't sound great normally, but it obviously is a motion in one direction. If you're unsynchronized at some point you'll get to either the beginning or the end of the range of motion of the mechanism before the projector expects to and then you'll hear that bouncing off the endstop forward and reverse knoise in my video.

Just to be clear, my video isn't a procedure for testing if the iris is synchronised or not. It is specifically a procedure that I believe will un-synchronise the iris in projectors of at least my unit's age. If someone does this procedure on a newer unit (either an N7/NX9 or a new batch X7900) it will be very interesting indeed.

------------

*This does raise an interesting question. The lamp iris mech has a maximum range of motion, and 0 to -15 is going to be placed somewhere within that range of motion. I don't know how much "slack" there is at either end. It is possible that if there is a bit of slack at either end that the precise alignment of the lamp iris mech could account for some inter-unit variations in contrast ratio and max light output achievable (0 iris on one unit might be -0.75 iris on another unit, effectively). Food for thought.
I have tried your procedure six times and it does not un synchronize my iris. On the second set of testing, I even moved the iris the full range after each test. If it was not synchronized, I would not have been able to do so.
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post #10662 of 12012 Old 01-29-2019, 07:51 AM - Thread Starter
 
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This is very helpful Byte, thanks. So what is your recomendation then? I understand its a long drawn out debate but what do you personally prefer.

@Chad B was out in October and calibrated my 640. He leaves DI set to manual (off) but notes on his Cal Report that 'manual or auto' is acceptable.

Specifically for UHD HDR BD - DI on or off?

So the DI processes other parts of the picture, making them brighter, in an attempt to offset the inherent darker image it produces?

Think I'll stick with the calibrated settings from Chad 'manual' and be done with it hehe
I prefer DI in manual mode. At 115" diagonal 2.35 screen, i set the manual lamp iris at (-5). This amount of lamp iris reduction dials back my peak white and black floor just a tad.

DI functions routinely process the video to compensate for overall scene dimming, by trying to make the image brighter while maintaining the black floor. When you have calibrated the projector for peak lumen output, it leaves little or no room for the DI video process to do anything but (crush) push some video levels too high. Some transitions from dark to bright scenes will reveal the over processing as it lags in readjusting to normal levels. There are also ocassional scenes where the over processing might exhibit itself in the frame by a color clipping (usually red which tends to lacking to start).

To be fair, my old sony vw90es had worse video processing than the x990, because sony went way over board boosting video levels to brighten up scenes.

I lived with DI artifacts on the vw90es because its native contrast was around 8k, but with the x990 in the 45-50k range, its a whole different story.

I also lived with the jvc DI for awhile. But once i also noticed what was happening on both the low end and the upper end, i tried manual mode and never went back.

I dont run hdr mode any more since switching to sdr 2020, but if i did, opening the iris up to 0 does the trick. You can also run hdr color profile instead of 2020 to get some additional lumens, for a small hit in color gamut. Ideally, calibrate a 2020NF (no filter) color profile.
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post #10663 of 12012 Old 01-29-2019, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Bytehoven View Post
I prefer DI in manual mode. At 115" diagonal 2.35 screen, i set the manual lamp iris at (-5). This amount of lamp iris reduction dials back my peak white and black floor just a tad.

DI functions routinely process the video to compensate for overall scene dimming, by trying to make the image brighter while maintaining the black floor. When you have calibrated the projector for peak lumen output, it leaves little or no room for the DI video process to do anything but (crush) push some video levels too high. Some transitions from dark to bright scenes will reveal the over processing as it lags in readjusting to normal levels. There are also ocassional scenes where the over processing might exhibit itself in the frame by a color clipping (usually red which tends to lacking to start).

To be fair, my old sony vw90es had worse video processing than the x990, because sony went way over board boosting video levels to brighten up scenes.

I lived with DI artifacts on the vw90es because its native contrast was around 8k, but with the x990 in the 45-50k range, its a whole different story.

I also lived with the jvc DI for awhile. But once i also noticed what was happening on both the low end and the upper end, i tried manual mode and never went back.

I dont run hdr mode any more since switching to sdr 2020, but if i did, opening the iris up to 0 does the trick. You can also run hdr color profile instead of 2020 to get some additional lumens, for a small hit in color gamut. Ideally, calibrate a 2020NF (no filter) color profile.
That's certainly one way to avoid the issue - leave it in SDR!
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post #10664 of 12012 Old 01-29-2019, 08:26 AM
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Yes. Checked both ways. I have manual iris at -6 for SDR and 0 for HDR. Going from SDR playing then shut down projector while SDR is playing. Then play HDR and start up projector, if what you say is true, my projector should be on -6 for the iris. It was not. It was on 0. And to confirm that the iris setting was truly 0. I was able to go to -15 and back to 0. I also tried it the other way and iris was -6. Again I was able to move the iris the full spectrum from starting point of -6 to 0 and to -15. It is not a programing issue. Get others to test and revise your posts, once others confirm. My 640 is not a newer 640. Serial number is 16240138.
Hi Mike,
I'm not trying to be a doubting thomas but you're not being very clear with your descriptions.

So you did:

Play HDR. You heard the LAMP iris move from -6 to 0, right? Continuous motor sound lasting a few seconds.
Then you shut down PJ, stopped playback of HDR, started playback of SDR. Started up PJ. Checked iris in UI, it says -6.
At what precise point in that whole procedure did you hear the LAMP IRIS move back from 0 to -6 - same continuous motor sound as before? As the PJ Shut down? Or During startup? Or some time after the video had appeared on screen?

You can see from my video the PJ never moves the lamp iris back (you never hear it move), even though it says it is in the right place. Can you confirm the precise timing of when your iris moves back from the HDR position to the SDR position? If I know when it is moving for you it can help me debug what is going on here. A video like the one I did of it where you can hear it doing it would be great.

For what it is worth, it's not a given that -6 to 0 is the same as -10 to 0. Your range of movement is much smaller, so it is feasible that being mis-aligned by -6 isn't enough to make you hit the end of the iris mech, but -10 is.

---

If what you are saying is right, there should be no danger whatsoever in other folk trying these steps. If anyone else is able to test I'd be grateful as I need to fighure out if I've now been incredibly unlucky (where is my lotto ticket) and received 2 units with lamp iris faults. If you are able to run a test, reply with your model and what kit you've got connected up and I'll come up with a procedure for you to be able to do to see how it behaves.

My preferred setup for testing is:
HDR iris set to 0
SDR iris set to -10.
Play HDR, listen to iris move. Check iris setting on screen.
Shut down projector - pay particular attention to whether you hear the lamp iris move back.
Stop HDR, replace with SDR.
Start up projector pay particular attention to whether you hear the lamp iris move back.
Check the iris setting on the screen.

Thanks in advance.
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post #10665 of 12012 Old 01-29-2019, 08:29 AM
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post #10666 of 12012 Old 01-29-2019, 08:49 AM
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I prefer DI in manual mode. At 115" diagonal 2.35 screen, i set the manual lamp iris at (-5). This amount of lamp iris reduction dials back my peak white and black floor just a tad.

DI functions routinely process the video to compensate for overall scene dimming, by trying to make the image brighter while maintaining the black floor. When you have calibrated the projector for peak lumen output, it leaves little or no room for the DI video process to do anything but (crush) push some video levels too high. Some transitions from dark to bright scenes will reveal the over processing as it lags in readjusting to normal levels. There are also ocassional scenes where the over processing might exhibit itself in the frame by a color clipping (usually red which tends to lacking to start).

To be fair, my old sony vw90es had worse video processing than the x990, because sony went way over board boosting video levels to brighten up scenes.

I lived with DI artifacts on the vw90es because its native contrast was around 8k, but with the x990 in the 45-50k range, its a whole different story.

I also lived with the jvc DI for awhile. But once i also noticed what was happening on both the low end and the upper end, i tried manual mode and never went back.

I dont run hdr mode any more since switching to sdr 2020, but if i did, opening the iris up to 0 does the trick. You can also run hdr color profile instead of 2020 to get some additional lumens, for a small hit in color gamut. Ideally, calibrate a 2020NF (no filter) color profile.
That's certainly one way to avoid the issue - leave it in SDR! [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]
The more and more iris issues that I seem to get with HDR just makes me think that’s it’s just best to turn off the DI and be done with it for HDR material.
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post #10667 of 12012 Old 01-29-2019, 09:02 AM
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Can it be possible? Can convergence get better over time?

I just went thru a routine clearing of the baffles "Crazy Ivan", and it appears the convergence error on my x990 has improved.


I'm wondering how this might be possible?

Perhaps the on-off, heat-cool, expansion-contraction, of the light engine, could cause the panels to move ever so slightly?

In my case, whatever is happening, is moving in a good direction. However, i can imagine things could be moving in a less favorable direction.

In any case, i find myself being able to run with convergence adjustments OFF. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]

Beyond the red October reference about the crazy Ivan - did you actually do anything to get the convergence improved? Or does the crazy Ivan reference moving the panels back and forth to their limits? I have an issue where the blue is always a little out of the white lines. Doesn’t seem to impact the picture but it is there none the less.
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post #10668 of 12012 Old 01-29-2019, 09:26 AM
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Hi Mike,
I'm not trying to be a doubting thomas but you're not being very clear with your descriptions.

So you did:

Play HDR. You heard the LAMP iris move from -6 to 0, right? Continuous motor sound lasting a few seconds.
Then you shut down PJ, stopped playback of HDR, started playback of SDR. Started up PJ. Checked iris in UI, it says -6.
At what precise point in that whole procedure did you hear the LAMP IRIS move back from 0 to -6 - same continuous motor sound as before? As the PJ Shut down? Or During startup? Or some time after the video had appeared on screen?

You can see from my video the PJ never moves the lamp iris back (you never hear it move), even though it says it is in the right place. Can you confirm the precise timing of when your iris moves back from the HDR position to the SDR position? If I know when it is moving for you it can help me debug what is going on here. A video like the one I did of it where you can hear it doing it would be great.

For what it is worth, it's not a given that -6 to 0 is the same as -10 to 0. Your range of movement is much smaller, so it is feasible that being mis-aligned by -6 isn't enough to make you hit the end of the iris mech, but -10 is.

---

If what you are saying is right, there should be no danger whatsoever in other folk trying these steps. If anyone else is able to test I'd be grateful as I need to fighure out if I've now been incredibly unlucky (where is my lotto ticket) and received 2 units with lamp iris faults. If you are able to run a test, reply with your model and what kit you've got connected up and I'll come up with a procedure for you to be able to do to see how it behaves.

My preferred setup for testing is:
HDR iris set to 0
SDR iris set to -10.
Play HDR, listen to iris move. Check iris setting on screen.
Shut down projector - pay particular attention to whether you hear the lamp iris move back.
Stop HDR, replace with SDR.
Start up projector pay particular attention to whether you hear the lamp iris move back.
Check the iris setting on the screen.

Thanks in advance.
Can someone please direct me to directions for disabling the lens cover on my 990 to perform bobof's test sequence? I can't find them in the owner's manual.

Thanks
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post #10669 of 12012 Old 01-29-2019, 09:43 AM
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Can someone please direct me to directions for disabling the lens cover on my 990 to perform bobof's test sequence? I can't find them in the owner's manual.

Thanks
Installation menu -> Lens Control -> Lens Cover

Set it to Open, which leaves it open all the time, instead of Auto, which opens and shuts it automatically.
Thanks for testing.
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post #10670 of 12012 Old 01-29-2019, 11:21 AM
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If you truly want your best possible picture, contact this guy >>> Chad B : [email protected] You will not know if you have the best picture until a guy as good as Chad walks thru the door.
I just got his list for his next tour in a few months into my neck of the woods. Until then, I used the Sound and Vision Review settings for HDR and the Disney Wow Disc with THX mode to for SDR. I can't imagine it can get much better so I can't wait for ChadB.
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post #10671 of 12012 Old 01-29-2019, 12:17 PM
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Installation menu -> Lens Control -> Lens Cover

Set it to Open, which leaves it open all the time, instead of Auto, which opens and shuts it automatically.
Thanks for testing.
My 990 successfully passed bobof's test. However, when I attempted to change the SDR iris from -15 back to -9, it triggered the grinding cycle. Also, attempting to switch back from the SDR to my HDR input shut down the JVC and started the "light show." Hope this helps. Also, I took video if anyone needs or would like for me to share.
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post #10672 of 12012 Old 01-29-2019, 12:32 PM
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My 990 successfully passed bobof's test. However, when I attempted to change the SDR iris from -15 back to -9, it triggered the grinding cycle. Also, attempting to switch back from the SDR to my HDR input shut down the JVC and started the "light show." Hope this helps. Also, I took video if anyone needs or would like for me to share.
Ermmm... does your unit already have a broken iris? Those are fairly typical broken iris symptoms...
EDIT: I see from the history of the messages that you must be doing this test on your old, broken unit, right? In that case I'm not completely sure what it tells us . Any chance of sharing that video so I can see how it behaves? I'm specifically interested (as with Mike's result) to see at what point the projector puts back the iris position, as that is the bit my projector definitely isn't doing in my installation.

Last edited by bobof; 01-29-2019 at 12:41 PM.
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post #10673 of 12012 Old 01-29-2019, 12:54 PM - Thread Starter
 
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Beyond the red October reference about the crazy Ivan - did you actually do anything to get the convergence improved? Or does the crazy Ivan reference moving the panels back and forth to their limits? I have an issue where the blue is always a little out of the white lines. Doesn’t seem to impact the picture but it is there none the less.
Hi joe... crazy ivan reference was just checking stuff for no real reason. So maybe once a month or so, ill just check focus, screen shift and convergence. Its been more than a few months since i last checked. Both my memory 1 and 2 had issues. Memory 1 was whole fine pixel adjustments. Memory 2 had zone tweaks, but i never used 2. In any case, after a good warm up, i started looking more closely and OFF looked great.

I'll take some reference picks to use for comparison down the road. Wish i had done that before so i could see which way the panels moved.

Last edited by Bytehoven; 01-29-2019 at 01:07 PM.
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Ermmm... does your unit already have a broken iris? Those are fairly typical broken iris symptoms...
EDIT: I see from the history of the messages that you must be doing this test on your old, broken unit, right? In that case I'm not completely sure what it tells us . Any chance of sharing that video so I can see how it behaves? I'm specifically interested (as with Mike's result) to see at what point the projector puts back the iris position, as that is the bit my projector definitely isn't doing in my installation.
bob is correct that my unit does have the broken iris. My replacement unit will be installed tomorrow and I plan to test it.
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post #10675 of 12012 Old 01-29-2019, 01:08 PM
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Can it be possible? Can convergence get better over time?

I just went thru a routine clearing of the baffles "Crazy Ivan", and it appears the convergence error on my x990 has improved.

I'm wondering how this might be possible?

Perhaps the on-off, heat-cool, expansion-contraction, of the light engine, could cause the panels to move ever so slightly?

In my case, whatever is happening, is moving in a good direction. However, i can imagine things could be moving in a less favorable direction.

In any case, i find myself being able to run with convergence adjustments OFF.
Had you by any chance changed lens shift ? In my case, reducing horizontal lens shift to zero significantly improved convergence.
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Had you by any chance changed lens shift ? In my case, reducing horizontal lens shift to zero significantly improved convergence.
Great point. I run a CIH setup and there is some V shift between scope and 16:9. These observations and adjustments were in the scope setup. I'll check in 16:9 and see what happens. If 16:9 is out, its a smaller screen so it may be imperceptable. Thanks for that reminder.
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post #10677 of 12012 Old 01-29-2019, 02:46 PM
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I have tried your procedure six times and it does not un synchronize my iris. On the second set of testing, I even moved the iris the full range after each test. If it was not synchronized, I would not have been able to do so.
Like I posted in the other thread (really should have been here), I reproduced this issue on my RS540 with bobof's procedure. My serial is 1424xxxx, so I assume that's September of last year? I bought it right at the end of December from AVS.

So far it's working ok though. I plan to just avoid doing that and wait to see if it breaks. I've got almost 2 years left on the warranty anyway.

I wonder if that iris design was never intended to be driven back and forth over and over. Obviously in the past people just set it for a specific light level and left it most of the time (except for 3D I suppose).
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post #10678 of 12012 Old 01-29-2019, 03:00 PM
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Like I posted in the other thread (really should have been here), I reproduced this issue on my RS540 with bobof's procedure. My serial is 1424xxxx, so I assume that's September of last year? I bought it right at the end of December from AVS.

So far it's working ok though. I plan to just avoid doing that and wait to see if it breaks. I've got almost 2 years left on the warranty anyway.

I wonder if that iris design was never intended to be driven back and forth over and over. Obviously in the past people just set it for a specific light level and left it most of the time (except for 3D I suppose).
Thanks for the post. It will be interesting to see what more results bring; clearly in the past the lamp iris (both logic and mechanics) got a lot less work. Previously when you changed modes it was always stored in the projector, and the iris moved to that position; when you powered it off and then back on it came back up in the same mode so the iris was in the same place. It looks to me more like the problem is that the auto HDR mode stuff that was added has broken that relationship and there seems to be a glitch with the logic.

But I'm really not sure. Mike's result has me questioning my theory - though of course my unit definitely behaves the way in the video - it is plain to see for all. I did the same thing 3 times and it did the same, and then with bluray instead of ATV and again the same.

Just the same as there are quite a lot of units that have had full iris failure, perhaps this behaviour mine and your units appear to share is due to a faulty part somewhere in the iris setup, and JVC have a replacement part that works properly. It is possible.

Who knows. I've emailed JVC customer support a couple of days ago and had no reply as yet. Luckily the JVC service centre for the Uk is only about 10 mins drive from my house if I need to take it in.
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post #10679 of 12012 Old 01-29-2019, 03:13 PM
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My serial is 1424xxxx, so I assume that's September of last year?
.
I meant to say, 1424 is per my understanding something like Sept 2017, so it would be one of the very first units made.
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post #10680 of 12012 Old 01-29-2019, 03:21 PM
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Getting an update might need to await jvc figuring out all of fixes needed on the NX series units.

Since switching to sdr2020, it has been awhile since my projector has been in hdr mode.
Byte, just to clarify, have you just been watching SDR content or do you now prefer SDR mode?
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