Official JVC - 20LTD - RS640 (x990/x9900) - RS540 (X790/x7900) - Owners Thread - Page 358 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #10711 of 12556 Old 02-01-2019, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Bytehoven View Post
Not at all...

When i buy a new dusk title, i buy the 4k uhd hdr version if available, but watch with the 820 in sdr-2020 or sdr-HDR (no filter).
Hey byte, I am intrigued by the panasonic 820.
If I do go with this, I am confused w.r.t. the picture profile setting I will need to go with on the JVC. Chad calibrated it with a couple of custom picture profiles (DAY and NIGHT).
The Night profile appears to use AT709. I think the DAY profile is similar except it uses high lamp.
I am trying to figure out if I would be able to continue using these profiles with the pany. And if yes, what would be the o/p setting on it?

Currently I let the JVC flip to HDR pciture profile when I play a 4k disc using my sony X800
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post #10712 of 12556 Old 02-01-2019, 03:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bytebuster View Post
Hey byte, I am intrigued by the panasonic 820.
If I do go with this, I am confused w.r.t. the picture profile setting I will need to go with on the JVC. Chad calibrated it with a couple of custom picture profiles (DAY and NIGHT).
The Night profile appears to use AT709. I think the DAY profile is similar except it uses high lamp.
I am trying to figure out if I would be able to continue using these profiles with the pany. And if yes, what would be the o/p setting on it?

Currently I let the JVC flip to HDR pciture profile when I play a 4k disc using my sony X800
1... just like how you use your x800 with an hdr output, you could try the 820 in hdr2020 output mode, but with the optimizer on. Try both of chad's hdr custom curves and see what you think. This could let the 820 optimizer function make chad's curves perform well with more titles.

2... the alternative, use the 820 is to switch to using sdr2020 output mode, and you would be skipping chad's curves entirely, and using the projector settings for regular hd material + a 2.4 gamma setting.

When watching a sdr hd, you use the rec 709 color profile. When watching an hdr movie you can use the bt2020 color profile, or you can trade some color depth and gain some image brightness using the hdr color profile.

High and low lamp would work the same, using high when you need that extra image brightness.

Color temp is the remaining area you can pick up some image brightness. Chad probably calibrated your 6500k color temp. Did he do any others? Chad made me a custom 7500 and a custom High Bright color temp settings. These two color temps alts are progressively brighter, but also more blue and blue/green. However, they are effective for viewing with some light on in the room, like superbowl viewing. In fact for football, i run the stock high bright with green gain at (-10) for just a little more brightness and the extra green push does not offend on football content.

Please review the 1st post in this thread and let me know if you have any questions. I cover both, how i used chad's curves and my favorite projector hdr tone mapping., and i cover how i set up for using the 820.
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Last edited by Bytehoven; 02-01-2019 at 03:27 PM.
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post #10713 of 12556 Old 02-01-2019, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by the_jaguar View Post
I was under the impression that "Video" mode is Rec-709, right on the x90 series? Also, 2020 already exists on the x90 series, right?
According to a post by Dominic, "BT2020 uses the P3 filter;" I don't believe that the pre-installed Rec-709 does. Therefore, if correct, you would have 2 of the 4.
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post #10714 of 12556 Old 02-01-2019, 03:37 PM
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1... just like how you use your x800 with an hdr output, you could try the 820 in hdr2020 output mode, but with the optimizer on. Try both of chad's hdr custom curves and see what you think. This could let the 820 optimizer function make chad's curves perform well with more titles.
This is the part that confuses me. How do I know if this DAY and NIGHT curves are HDR curves?
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post #10715 of 12556 Old 02-01-2019, 03:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bytebuster View Post
This is the part that confuses me. How do I know if this DAY and NIGHT curves are HDR curves?
Im pretty sure chad's curves are only for hdr. It is essy to confirm. If you try them with non hdr content, the image will be way wrong.
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post #10716 of 12556 Old 02-01-2019, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by tswire View Post
Sounds....interesting. Lol. I have not found one person on this forum that would recommend ANY calibration of “stock” JVC settings and is useless and a waste of money if you don’t install custom curves with Arves tool.


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I have to agree and we ended up in a bit of a heated exchange with Jeff saying that maybe he was not the right person to come and allign my projector.

Alls well that ends well. Chad did an outstanding alignment and I could not be happier with the alignment or Chad. I am sure based upon what I have heard, but not seen, that Jeffs work on JVC's and Sony's produces very good images also.
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post #10717 of 12556 Old 02-01-2019, 04:03 PM
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Sounds....interesting. Lol. I have not found one person on this forum that would recommend ANY calibration of “stock” JVC settings and is useless and a waste of money if you don’t install custom curves with Arves tool.
Arves Tool is certainly convenient, but you don’t need to use it to create custom curves; autocal’s gamma utility will work just fine. There isn’t much difference in the final results in spite of the theoretical 256- vs 12-pt calibration, other than Arve’s BBO option which is really only needed for some non-standard UHD titles.

However, if a calibrator does not create a custom curve and only uses the controls in the projector’s user interface, there’s indeed a limit on how good the calibration can be, due to the limited flexibility of those controls.
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Last edited by Dominic Chan; 02-01-2019 at 04:28 PM.
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post #10718 of 12556 Old 02-01-2019, 04:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
Arves Tool is certainly convenient, but you don’t need to use it to create custom curves; autocal’s gamma utility will work just fine. There isn’t much difference in the final results in spite of the theoretical 256- vs 12-pt calibration, other than Arve’s BBO option which is really only needed for some non-standard UHD titles.

However, if a calibrator does not create a custom curve and only uses the projector’s limited controls, then there’s indeed a limit on how good the calibration can be.
The calibration benefit of eliminating gamma droop does improve the range of effectiveness of the tone mapping controls on our projectors. So while a custom curve is preferred, the on board controls can be made much better and might be more flexible

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post #10719 of 12556 Old 02-01-2019, 07:09 PM
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My current RS640 being only my second PJ - how much does advertised brightness vary from unit to unit or bulb to bulb? I ask because I am using this calculator (which is awesome IMO) to determine where my fL should be given my current setup. I am using calibrated, high lamp, at post 500 hours and what I am actually achieving is slightly over 20% less than what the calculator indicates I should be getting. My lamp is at 750 hours currently and is the original lamp that came in the PJ when I bought it new.

Is this type of thing common? Just curious if bulbs vary in brightness and if so to what extent is typical?
There is a big variance bulb to bulb. My new RS640 came with a bulb that only did about 1050 lumens on low lamp. I swapped in a spare and it measured 1450 on low lamp.
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post #10720 of 12556 Old 02-02-2019, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
There is a big variance bulb to bulb. My new RS640 came with a bulb that only did about 1050 lumens on low lamp. I swapped in a spare and it measured 1450 on low lamp.


That is pretty wild. Is your 640 calibrated? No changes in system settings or calibration from one Bulb to the next?

Different make or model from one bulb to the next?

How are you verifying your brightness?

That is incredible, over 35% increase increase in brightness in your scenario…



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post #10721 of 12556 Old 02-02-2019, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ddigler View Post
That is pretty wild. Is your 640 calibrated? No changes in system settings or calibration from one Bulb to the next?

Different make or model from one bulb to the next?

How are you verifying your brightness?

That is incredible, over 35% increase increase in brightness in your scenario…
I use the same meter for all my measurements of bulb life and aging. So even if it's off, the difference between bulb to bulb is accurate.
This was simply a new projector, first 2-3 days, measured lumens, had a spare new unopened JVC bulb, popped it in, measured again. The RS640 currently still has the 2nd bulb in it at 1000 or so hours and was still brighter than the one that came in the JVC.

Bulb variance on my Sony 675ES was similar. The original bulb measured at 1800 or so lumens on high, the new replacement at just 1600. I don't think people realize how much bulbs vary.

My RS500 was measuring 1700 lumens on high at 3000 hour mark. This bulb finally died with a pretty hard lumen drop of around 3500 hour mark. It's possible the bulb that only runs 1100 lumens on low might have lasted to 3000 hours with no more drop off. I didn't give it a chance to find out.
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post #10722 of 12556 Old 02-02-2019, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
I use the same meter for all my measurements of bulb life and aging. So even if it's off, the difference between bulb to bulb is accurate.

This was simply a new projector, first 2-3 days, measured lumens, had a spare new unopened JVC bulb, popped it in, measured again. The RS640 currently still has the 2nd bulb in it at 1000 or so hours and was still brighter than the one that came in the JVC.



Bulb variance on my Sony 675ES was similar. The original bulb measured at 1800 or so lumens on high, the new replacement at just 1600. I don't think people realize how much bulbs vary.



My RS500 was measuring 1700 lumens on high at 3000 hour mark. This bulb finally died with a pretty hard lumen drop of around 3500 hour mark. It's possible the bulb that only runs 1100 lumens on low might have lasted to 3000 hours with no more drop off. I didn't give it a chance to find out.


Interesting… had you not had an extra bulb sitting around would you have bought another understanding how dim the initial bulb in your 640 was? I find myself not sure how to proceed here… Again showing my inexperience but don’t these bulbs cost several hundred dollars? If I knew for sure I could get a 25% brightness boost I just might consider it but to buy a different bulb and cross my fingers hoping for increased brightness is not a great strategy…

Do individuals with brand new projectors that come with dimmer bulbs just typically live with them? Many don’t even realize it I would imagine?

I was also anticipating someone to chime in indicating that the online calculators, no matter how nice they are are just estimates… That sometimes they can overshoot brightness?


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post #10723 of 12556 Old 02-02-2019, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by BdoUK View Post
Are you using a Color Profile that has the color filter in place? Others can confirm but I believe the hit there is usually around 20%.

@Chad B was out a few months ago and calibrated my 640. He mentioned at that time that the color filter would put a hit on my brightness and with my large screen we made the option to disengage the color filter for all calibrated picture settings. Thanks for the suggestion, it’s a good thought but color filter is not my issue…


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post #10724 of 12556 Old 02-02-2019, 08:52 PM
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Interesting… had you not had an extra bulb sitting around would you have bought another understanding how dim the initial bulb in your 640 was? I find myself not sure how to proceed here… Again showing my inexperience but don’t these bulbs cost several hundred dollars? If I knew for sure I could get a 25% brightness boost I just might consider it but to buy a different bulb and cross my fingers hoping for increased brightness is not a great strategy…

Do individuals with brand new projectors that come with dimmer bulbs just typically live with them? Many don’t even realize it I would imagine?

I was also anticipating someone to chime in indicating that the online calculators, no matter how nice they are are just estimates… That sometimes they can overshoot brightness?
Oh nah I wouldnt have swapped it. The thing is Mike at AVScience said "oh the new projectors are just dimmer" and I didn't buy it. So I swapped the bulb to see, and it wasn't true lol. But it wasn't worth swapping back. To be honest, I couldn't really tell the difference looking at the picture either way. I wouldn't worry about it either way.

Is your projector feeling too dim for you?
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post #10725 of 12556 Old 02-03-2019, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by ddigler View Post

Do individuals with brand new projectors that come with dimmer bulbs just typically live with them? Many don’t even realize it I would imagine?
You would need a meter to measure the brightness to first see if you have an issue like markmon1 did below, then you can make some calls.......I would say many do not realize or do not have the gear to make some tests.

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There is a big variance bulb to bulb. My new RS640 came with a bulb that only did about 1050 lumens on low lamp. I swapped in a spare and it measured 1450 on low lamp.
That is a huge jump........Did you reach out to JVC direct to see if they would swap the bulb with the low lumens? 50/100 lumens is one thing almost 1/3 rd is another......
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post #10726 of 12556 Old 02-03-2019, 08:12 AM
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I got on Chad B.’s standby list for his upcoming Houston, TX tour. Crossing my fingers that he can fit me in! As good as the picture is now, I can’t wait to see what a true picture should look like.
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post #10727 of 12556 Old 02-03-2019, 11:03 AM
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Looking for some input on a decision I need to make.

I have one of the X990's with the defective/malfunctioning lens irises. I have been given the option of sending it to JVC (shipping to them will be at my cost, estimated at $100-150) and waiting 2-3 weeks for the repair, along with all the risk of damage in shipment, or to receive a brand new unit via the rapid exchange process.

My current unit is not otherwise perfect, but has good focus and okay convergence, and very limited bright corners (to the point where I really don't see them at all in a fully darkened room). It has no dead pixels or other issues that I can see. Eshift noise is pretty much non-existent after it heats up. It does have the issue where it takes about 1.5 hours from cold start for the focus and shift to settle in. After the initial nitpicking process (this was actually my second unit, my first had a green line down the right side of the image), I've been pretty satisfied with this unit.

It's been made clear to me that unless the new unit (if I elect for rapid exchange) arrives damaged or blatantly defective I probably am not going to get a lot of traction for replacing the new unit again if it has poorer focus, convergence, brightness issues, etc. I cannot "shop" serial numbers of the available units and may in fact get another older manufacturing date unit with the possibility of iris failure. Warranty on the new unit would continue from this point (~1.5 years in) rather than resetting to a full 3 years. My current bulb has about 1500 hours on it so I would get the advantage of a new bulb in the new unit as well.

Given all that, would it be better to pay to send mine in and wait on a repair, facing the shipping risks and inherent risk of pulling the projector apart for a repair, or take the risk of "losing the lottery" on a new unit which will also have a new bulb (and could actually be better than my current unit overall)? I would say my biggest concerns would be getting a unit with poorer focus, brighter corners, or dead pixels.

Thanks for any advice, I'm kind of torn on this one.
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post #10728 of 12556 Old 02-03-2019, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by rlarsen462 View Post
Looking for some input on a decision I need to make.

I have one of the X990's with the defective/malfunctioning lens irises. I have been given the option of sending it to JVC (shipping to them will be at my cost, estimated at $100-150) and waiting 2-3 weeks for the repair, along with all the risk of damage in shipment, or to receive a brand new unit via the rapid exchange process.

My current unit is not otherwise perfect, but has good focus and okay convergence, and very limited bright corners (to the point where I really don't see them at all in a fully darkened room). It has no dead pixels or other issues that I can see. Eshift noise is pretty much non-existent after it heats up. It does have the issue where it takes about 1.5 hours from cold start for the focus and shift to settle in. After the initial nitpicking process (this was actually my second unit, my first had a green line down the right side of the image), I've been pretty satisfied with this unit.

It's been made clear to me that unless the new unit (if I elect for rapid exchange) arrives damaged or blatantly defective I probably am not going to get a lot of traction for replacing the new unit again if it has poorer focus, convergence, brightness issues, etc. I cannot "shop" serial numbers of the available units and may in fact get another older manufacturing date unit with the possibility of iris failure. Warranty on the new unit would continue from this point (~1.5 years in) rather than resetting to a full 3 years. My current bulb has about 1500 hours on it so I would get the advantage of a new bulb in the new unit as well.

Given all that, would it be better to pay to send mine in and wait on a repair, facing the shipping risks and inherent risk of pulling the projector apart for a repair, or take the risk of "losing the lottery" on a new unit which will also have a new bulb (and could actually be better than my current unit overall)? I would say my biggest concerns would be getting a unit with poorer focus, brighter corners, or dead pixels.

Thanks for any advice, I'm kind of torn on this one.
I'd spend some time trying to pump folk for details of what the fix is that they'd do, what is involved (is it a complete optical block replacement, or are the iris parts replaced), and what they can tell you about why the "new" unit (is it really brand new or refurb) wouldn't have the issue. You can reference the thread with all our failures and ask about it.

I'd think also about whether you are happy with the rest of the performance of your unit (eshift noise, focus, convergence, bright corners, etc). They're all things that can vary on a unit to unit basis.
However, if the repair involves a complete optical block replacement then many of those characteristics will leave with the old optical block, so you might not know the unit when it gets back anymore. The new lamp has to be attractive to you given how much use your old unit had.

On balance I probably wish I'd had my original unit repaired if it transpires it isn't an optical block replacement job, as this replacement has much brighter corners than that had.

Good luck!
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post #10729 of 12556 Old 02-03-2019, 11:31 AM
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I'd spend some time trying to pump folk for details of what the fix is that they'd do, what is involved (is it a complete optical block replacement, or are the iris parts replaced), and what they can tell you about why the "new" unit (is it really brand new or refurb) wouldn't have the issue. You can reference the thread with all our failures and ask about it.

I'd think also about whether you are happy with the rest of the performance of your unit (eshift noise, focus, convergence, bright corners, etc). They're all things that can vary on a unit to unit basis.
However, if the repair involves a complete optical block replacement then many of those characteristics will leave with the old optical block, so you might not know the unit when it gets back anymore. The new lamp has to be attractive to you given how much use your old unit had.

On balance I probably wish I'd had my original unit repaired if it transpires it isn't an optical block replacement job, as this replacement has much brighter corners than that had.

Good luck!
I'm going to try and figure out what I can about the repair. I would be seriously bummed if I got a new unit with really bad focus and bright corners regardless of whether it was a result of repair or new replacement. I did confirm that I would receive a brand new unit, not a refurb.
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post #10730 of 12556 Old 02-03-2019, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by rlarsen462 View Post
Looking for some input on a decision I need to make.

I have one of the X990's with the defective/malfunctioning lens irises. I have been given the option of sending it to JVC (shipping to them will be at my cost, estimated at $100-150) and waiting 2-3 weeks for the repair, along with all the risk of damage in shipment, or to receive a brand new unit via the rapid exchange process.

My current unit is not otherwise perfect, but has good focus and okay convergence, and very limited bright corners (to the point where I really don't see them at all in a fully darkened room). It has no dead pixels or other issues that I can see. Eshift noise is pretty much non-existent after it heats up. It does have the issue where it takes about 1.5 hours from cold start for the focus and shift to settle in. After the initial nitpicking process (this was actually my second unit, my first had a green line down the right side of the image), I've been pretty satisfied with this unit.

It's been made clear to me that unless the new unit (if I elect for rapid exchange) arrives damaged or blatantly defective I probably am not going to get a lot of traction for replacing the new unit again if it has poorer focus, convergence, brightness issues, etc. I cannot "shop" serial numbers of the available units and may in fact get another older manufacturing date unit with the possibility of iris failure. Warranty on the new unit would continue from this point (~1.5 years in) rather than resetting to a full 3 years. My current bulb has about 1500 hours on it so I would get the advantage of a new bulb in the new unit as well.

Given all that, would it be better to pay to send mine in and wait on a repair, facing the shipping risks and inherent risk of pulling the projector apart for a repair, or take the risk of "losing the lottery" on a new unit which will also have a new bulb (and could actually be better than my current unit overall)? I would say my biggest concerns would be getting a unit with poorer focus, brighter corners, or dead pixels.

Thanks for any advice, I'm kind of torn on this one.
No way to know which is better of course. But I did the advanced replacement and have been happy with the result.
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post #10731 of 12556 Old 02-03-2019, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by rlarsen462 View Post
I'm going to try and figure out what I can about the repair. I would be seriously bummed if I got a new unit with really bad focus and bright corners regardless of whether it was a result of repair or new replacement. I did confirm that I would receive a brand new unit, not a refurb.
Please do feedback what you can, particularly if you get any detail of how / why these units are breaking when previous year models didn't seem to have this issue - though I understand finding out the details of that might be at odds with you getting the best result, so anything you can feed back would be appreciated.
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post #10732 of 12556 Old 02-03-2019, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by rlarsen462 View Post
Looking for some input on a decision I need to make.

I have one of the X990's with the defective/malfunctioning lens irises. I have been given the option of sending it to JVC (shipping to them will be at my cost, estimated at $100-150) and waiting 2-3 weeks for the repair, along with all the risk of damage in shipment, or to receive a brand new unit via the rapid exchange process.

My current unit is not otherwise perfect, but has good focus and okay convergence, and very limited bright corners (to the point where I really don't see them at all in a fully darkened room). It has no dead pixels or other issues that I can see. Eshift noise is pretty much non-existent after it heats up. It does have the issue where it takes about 1.5 hours from cold start for the focus and shift to settle in. After the initial nitpicking process (this was actually my second unit, my first had a green line down the right side of the image), I've been pretty satisfied with this unit.

It's been made clear to me that unless the new unit (if I elect for rapid exchange) arrives damaged or blatantly defective I probably am not going to get a lot of traction for replacing the new unit again if it has poorer focus, convergence, brightness issues, etc. I cannot "shop" serial numbers of the available units and may in fact get another older manufacturing date unit with the possibility of iris failure. Warranty on the new unit would continue from this point (~1.5 years in) rather than resetting to a full 3 years. My current bulb has about 1500 hours on it so I would get the advantage of a new bulb in the new unit as well.

Given all that, would it be better to pay to send mine in and wait on a repair, facing the shipping risks and inherent risk of pulling the projector apart for a repair, or take the risk of "losing the lottery" on a new unit which will also have a new bulb (and could actually be better than my current unit overall)? I would say my biggest concerns would be getting a unit with poorer focus, brighter corners, or dead pixels.

Thanks for any advice, I'm kind of torn on this one.
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Originally Posted by bobof View Post
I'd spend some time trying to pump folk for details of what the fix is that they'd do, what is involved (is it a complete optical block replacement, or are the iris parts replaced), and what they can tell you about why the "new" unit (is it really brand new or refurb) wouldn't have the issue. You can reference the thread with all our failures and ask about it.

I'd think also about whether you are happy with the rest of the performance of your unit (eshift noise, focus, convergence, bright corners, etc). They're all things that can vary on a unit to unit basis.
However, if the repair involves a complete optical block replacement then many of those characteristics will leave with the old optical block, so you might not know the unit when it gets back anymore. The new lamp has to be attractive to you given how much use your old unit had.

On balance I probably wish I'd had my original unit repaired if it transpires it isn't an optical block replacement job, as this replacement has much brighter corners than that had.

Good luck!
I talked to the guy at JVC about my JVC X790 that had a defective lens iris of which it would grind and just shut down. He said that my unit was an easy fix as essentially the pieces that make up the lens iris were just getting stuck on each other. More or less colliding into each other as they had disengaged from what ever track they are running on. At least that is how I kind on understood it.


I had only owned my unit for a few days so I ended up getting a free replacement. The e-shift ended up being louder then my first unit but over use has almost disappeared. I may here some noise for the first 10 mins and then it becomes very quiet and I only hear it when changing inputs.


I would advise you to go for the new unit for a few reasons.

1) There is a good chance something will get broken in shipment. I deal with shipping companies and they don't take much care in their deliveries. I am lucky to be within a 2hr drive of our JVC dealer so I drove my projector their when needed.

2) You are at 1500 hours and will get a free bulb. Those things aren't cheap!

3) You will save yourself $150
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Last edited by coxy2416; 02-03-2019 at 11:44 AM.
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post #10733 of 12556 Old 02-03-2019, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by rlarsen462 View Post
Looking for some input on a decision I need to make.

I have one of the X990's with the defective/malfunctioning lens irises. I have been given the option of sending it to JVC (shipping to them will be at my cost, estimated at $100-150) and waiting 2-3 weeks for the repair, along with all the risk of damage in shipment, or to receive a brand new unit via the rapid exchange process.

My current unit is not otherwise perfect, but has good focus and okay convergence, and very limited bright corners (to the point where I really don't see them at all in a fully darkened room). It has no dead pixels or other issues that I can see. Eshift noise is pretty much non-existent after it heats up. It does have the issue where it takes about 1.5 hours from cold start for the focus and shift to settle in. After the initial nitpicking process (this was actually my second unit, my first had a green line down the right side of the image), I've been pretty satisfied with this unit.

It's been made clear to me that unless the new unit (if I elect for rapid exchange) arrives damaged or blatantly defective I probably am not going to get a lot of traction for replacing the new unit again if it has poorer focus, convergence, brightness issues, etc. I cannot "shop" serial numbers of the available units and may in fact get another older manufacturing date unit with the possibility of iris failure. Warranty on the new unit would continue from this point (~1.5 years in) rather than resetting to a full 3 years. My current bulb has about 1500 hours on it so I would get the advantage of a new bulb in the new unit as well.

Given all that, would it be better to pay to send mine in and wait on a repair, facing the shipping risks and inherent risk of pulling the projector apart for a repair, or take the risk of "losing the lottery" on a new unit which will also have a new bulb (and could actually be better than my current unit overall)? I would say my biggest concerns would be getting a unit with poorer focus, brighter corners, or dead pixels.

Thanks for any advice, I'm kind of torn on this one.
As someone who's actually received a replacement, I strongly recommend that option. 100% pleased with my new unit.
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post #10734 of 12556 Old 02-03-2019, 01:34 PM
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As someone who's actually received a replacement, I strongly recommend that option. 100% pleased with my new unit.
Was yours also a 990/640? What was the issue you requested replacement for? Iris problem like me?

Thanks!
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post #10735 of 12556 Old 02-03-2019, 01:42 PM
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Was yours also a 990/640? What was the issue you requested replacement for? Iris problem like me?

Thanks!
YES to both questions.
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post #10736 of 12556 Old 02-03-2019, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by rlarsen462 View Post
Looking for some input on a decision I need to make.

I have one of the X990's with the defective/malfunctioning lens irises. I have been given the option of sending it to JVC (shipping to them will be at my cost, estimated at $100-150) and waiting 2-3 weeks for the repair, along with all the risk of damage in shipment, or to receive a brand new unit via the rapid exchange process.

My current unit is not otherwise perfect, but has good focus and okay convergence, and very limited bright corners (to the point where I really don't see them at all in a fully darkened room). It has no dead pixels or other issues that I can see. Eshift noise is pretty much non-existent after it heats up. It does have the issue where it takes about 1.5 hours from cold start for the focus and shift to settle in. After the initial nitpicking process (this was actually my second unit, my first had a green line down the right side of the image), I've been pretty satisfied with this unit.

It's been made clear to me that unless the new unit (if I elect for rapid exchange) arrives damaged or blatantly defective I probably am not going to get a lot of traction for replacing the new unit again if it has poorer focus, convergence, brightness issues, etc. I cannot "shop" serial numbers of the available units and may in fact get another older manufacturing date unit with the possibility of iris failure. Warranty on the new unit would continue from this point (~1.5 years in) rather than resetting to a full 3 years. My current bulb has about 1500 hours on it so I would get the advantage of a new bulb in the new unit as well.

Given all that, would it be better to pay to send mine in and wait on a repair, facing the shipping risks and inherent risk of pulling the projector apart for a repair, or take the risk of "losing the lottery" on a new unit which will also have a new bulb (and could actually be better than my current unit overall)? I would say my biggest concerns would be getting a unit with poorer focus, brighter corners, or dead pixels.

Thanks for any advice, I'm kind of torn on this one.
I also decided to go with a new unit replacement and thought it looked better than my original unit from a focus perspective. My decision was tough because I had just had a Chad B calibration on my original RS540 but when I learned I'd be responsible for shipping the unit across the country it made the decision to go with the advanced replacement easier. Overall I think I came out ahead even though I have to wait for Chad to get back to my area this summer.
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post #10737 of 12556 Old 02-03-2019, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by rlarsen462 View Post
Looking for some input on a decision I need to make.

I have one of the X990's with the defective/malfunctioning lens irises. I have been given the option of sending it to JVC (shipping to them will be at my cost, estimated at $100-150) and waiting 2-3 weeks for the repair, along with all the risk of damage in shipment, or to receive a brand new unit via the rapid exchange process.

My current unit is not otherwise perfect, but has good focus and okay convergence, and very limited bright corners (to the point where I really don't see them at all in a fully darkened room). It has no dead pixels or other issues that I can see. Eshift noise is pretty much non-existent after it heats up. It does have the issue where it takes about 1.5 hours from cold start for the focus and shift to settle in. After the initial nitpicking process (this was actually my second unit, my first had a green line down the right side of the image), I've been pretty satisfied with this unit.

It's been made clear to me that unless the new unit (if I elect for rapid exchange) arrives damaged or blatantly defective I probably am not going to get a lot of traction for replacing the new unit again if it has poorer focus, convergence, brightness issues, etc. I cannot "shop" serial numbers of the available units and may in fact get another older manufacturing date unit with the possibility of iris failure. Warranty on the new unit would continue from this point (~1.5 years in) rather than resetting to a full 3 years. My current bulb has about 1500 hours on it so I would get the advantage of a new bulb in the new unit as well.

Given all that, would it be better to pay to send mine in and wait on a repair, facing the shipping risks and inherent risk of pulling the projector apart for a repair, or take the risk of "losing the lottery" on a new unit which will also have a new bulb (and could actually be better than my current unit overall)? I would say my biggest concerns would be getting a unit with poorer focus, brighter corners, or dead pixels.

Thanks for any advice, I'm kind of torn on this one.
I'd take the advanced exchange for sure. If for no other reason, than to get rid of that 90 minute focus stability issue. By the way, there's no guarantee that the advanced exchange unit is brand new. I mean why would it be? Your existing unit is not brand new anymore either. But it would still be covered under warranty. And I think you get 5 days to ship the defective unit back so if the advanced exchange is worse you can just send that one back.

What is your focus stability issue? Is it focus or convergence? I was dealing with something similar with my RS4500 and I think I finally got it solved. Part of my issue seemed to be that my room was 62 degrees and too cold so it took my projector lens longer to warm up.

Video: JVC RS4500 135" screen in pure black room no light, htpc nvidia 1080ti.
Audio: Anthem mrx720 running 7.1.4, McIntosh MC-303, MC-152, B&W 802d3 LR, B&W HTM1D3 center, B&W 805d3 surround, B&W 702S2 rear, B&W 706s2 x 4 shelf mounted for atmos, 2 sub arrays both infinite baffle: 4x15 fi audio running on behringer ep4000 + 4x12 fi audio running on 2nd ep4000.
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post #10738 of 12556 Old 02-03-2019, 02:40 PM
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I'd take the advanced exchange for sure. If for no other reason, than to get rid of that 90 minute focus stability issue. By the way, there's no guarantee that the advanced exchange unit is brand new. I mean why would it be? Your existing unit is not brand new anymore either. But it would still be covered under warranty. And I think you get 5 days to ship the defective unit back so if the advanced exchange is worse you can just send that one back.

What is your focus stability issue? Is it focus or convergence? I was dealing with something similar with my RS4500 and I think I finally got it solved. Part of my issue seemed to be that my room was 62 degrees and too cold so it took my projector lens longer to warm up.
I don't entirely disagree with your logic regarding refurb but a refurb means likely a unit that has been opened and serviced...and the one it would be replacing has not been (yet). Either way, I trust the person I work with at JVC and they said they had new units left and that I could have one if I choose rapid exchange.

Focus and lens shift on my current unit is not accurate until the unit is on about 1.5 hours. Focus is a little fuzzy and the picture is shifted up a couple of inches until then.
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post #10739 of 12556 Old 02-03-2019, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by rlarsen462 View Post
I don't entirely disagree with your logic regarding refurb but a refurb means likely a unit that has been opened and serviced...and the one it would be replacing has not been (yet). Either way, I trust the person I work with at JVC and they said they had new units left and that I could have one if I choose rapid exchange.

Focus and lens shift on my current unit is not accurate until the unit is on about 1.5 hours. Focus is a little fuzzy and the picture is shifted up a couple of inches until then.
If the focus is fuzzy to the point you can tell from your seating position for a whole 90 minutes, that would be a bigger deal breaker than the borked iris for me. On the refurb deal, if you dont take it, you will get a projector that's been opened up and repaired anyway - yours. But the only difference is you don't know if it will be repaired right and you won't get 5 days to test it with 2 projectors there If they're sending you a new one great also. In some ways, a refurb might be better since someone actually supposedly opened it up, fixed something, then did some actual testing.

Video: JVC RS4500 135" screen in pure black room no light, htpc nvidia 1080ti.
Audio: Anthem mrx720 running 7.1.4, McIntosh MC-303, MC-152, B&W 802d3 LR, B&W HTM1D3 center, B&W 805d3 surround, B&W 702S2 rear, B&W 706s2 x 4 shelf mounted for atmos, 2 sub arrays both infinite baffle: 4x15 fi audio running on behringer ep4000 + 4x12 fi audio running on 2nd ep4000.
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post #10740 of 12556 Old 02-04-2019, 03:53 AM
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At the moment I can make the pumping happen every time.

I am going to take my Nvidia Shield to my dealer and try playing some content on their X790 to see if there are any issues. If there are no pumping issues then that would point to my projector as being the issue.

If there are pumping issue we are going to try a different HDMI cable. If that still doesn’t work then it may be my Nvidia Shield causing the issue.
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100% wont be caused by cable. Either works or not.
I actually just reset the Shield and then re-loaded Kodi. It seems to have fixed most of the pumping that I was seeing as I played that Matrix scene multiple times without the DI going haywire. I need to do some more testing but it looks more and more like it is the Shield causing part of my issues.

However I am still seeing it on certain programming so for now I am just going to leave it off for HDR material. I still don't like how the DI dims down certain scenes that I don't think should be dimmed. With it in manual mode everything just seems to look better. I just missed the full fade to blacks and darker space scenes.

When I get a chance I am still going to stop by me dealer and play the same material on their X790 to see that DI behaves the same ways as mine.
Looks like it’s not just the Shield causing my issue as it has now happened with the PS4 Pro. Had the DI working really good after a Gamma calibration then after playing a game on the PS4 it started acting up again.

Here is a scene from Ant-Man and the Wasp. I am starting to think my DI has a mind of its own.

https://youtu.be/QiABMIyW2pg

After this happens the DI then seems to forget where it’s at and I have to reboot the projector so it will reset itself.

This is my DI set at “0” and not showing open.

Anyone else ever have this issue?
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