Official JVC - 20LTD - RS640 (x990/x9900) - RS540 (X790/x7900) - Owners Thread - Page 362 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #10831 of 12858 Old 02-09-2019, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MagnumMafia05 View Post
One quick question about loading some custom curves found on here.. now is there a original from the pj I need to copy or is there a factory one somewhere if I need to revert back to them? I'm going try to load the v3 one on here and see what it does.
The custom gamma and profile slots were not loaded in the factory with anything worth saving - Normal Gamma and Rec709 profile.
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post #10832 of 12858 Old 02-09-2019, 05:57 PM
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A few weeks ago I reported a "stuck iris" with my RS640 in the middle of a ChadB calibration. The unit was shipped on Jan 21 in California and was returned on Feb 2 - just before the Super Bowl. However, based on the packing slip, not only was the iris replaced but the XD1-0155-52 Processor Board as well. All calibration and settings were apparently wiped out, and even "lamp hours" was reset. Before ChadB left, he did back up to a .cdb file. My choice now is a) assume that the cal session is lost and wait for another cal nearly a year out, or b) attempt to restore from the .cdb file. Unless the .cdb file includes other settings besides gamma, it may be pointless. Also, I don't know anything about the electrical architecture of the projector and whether the "processor board" includes analog components or tolerances which could alter gamma measurements. I don't have calibration equipment of my own to do a check. Thoughts?
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post #10833 of 12858 Old 02-09-2019, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob_in_NorCal View Post
A few weeks ago I reported a "stuck iris" with my RS640 in the middle of a ChadB calibration. The unit was shipped on Jan 21 in California and was returned on Feb 2 - just before the Super Bowl. However, based on the packing slip, not only was the iris replaced but the XD1-0155-52 Processor Board as well. All calibration and settings were apparently wiped out, and even "lamp hours" was reset. Before ChadB left, he did back up to a .cdb file. My choice now is a) assume that the cal session is lost and wait for another cal nearly a year out, or b) attempt to restore from the .cdb file. Unless the .cdb file includes other settings besides gamma, it may be pointless. Also, I don't know anything about the electrical architecture of the projector and whether the "processor board" includes analog components or tolerances which could alter gamma measurements. I don't have calibration equipment of my own to do a check. Thoughts?

I think Kris Deering is about to do a Bay Area calibration run. I'd say catch him if you can. It'll definitely be at least a year before Chad gets back.

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post #10834 of 12858 Old 02-09-2019, 06:51 PM
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Help setting Black levels for JAVS curves with ARVE tool

Hope for a guidance. I need help adjust black levels in JAVS curves V3 that I installed. I bought the pattern but do not understand the JAVS instructions, I understand that I need to read and I did 20 or so times. What is not clear is how to adjust the black level exactly while in ARVE tool. Appreciate help, as I do not want to damage the projector experimenting. My projector is X570.

Thanks!
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post #10835 of 12858 Old 02-09-2019, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by dvzzz View Post
Hope for a guidance. I need help adjust black levels in JAVS curves V3 that I installed. I bought the pattern but do not understand the JAVS instructions, I understand that I need to read and I did 20 or so times. What is not clear is how to adjust the black level exactly while in ARVE tool. Appreciate help, as I do not want to damage the projector experimenting. My projector is X570.

Thanks!
As explained in the instructions, the black level is adjusted by changing the value of bbo (default 0.0016].

My understanding is that this step is optional and is only needed for discs with a black level of 0.005 nits. The value should be 0 for discs with 0.000 nits black.
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post #10836 of 12858 Old 02-09-2019, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by MagnumMafia05 View Post
So I finally went to get the m5 bolts that are long enough to use my ceiling mount.

Well using the pattern to center the projector the top left, and bottom left and right sides I can get perfect. The TOP LEFT is off by more than a inch? Is this normal? I dont think so...

Any way to fix this? The screen measured 44" on both sides where the pattern ends on the left and right... so it's NOT the screen...

I also had the projector re center the screen and that should be the first pic to show how much shift I had to use to lower it to center.
In that photo, it looks to me like you should rotate the entire projector slightly counter clockwise then go from there.
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post #10837 of 12858 Old 02-09-2019, 11:16 PM
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When I turned my xbox off before the projector in pitch black room I seen there is 1 pixel I think that is blue showing on the screen.. is that a dead pixel?

Got the 1200 and 4000 v3 gamma on the projector and def helped out on bladerunner 2049!

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post #10838 of 12858 Old 02-10-2019, 03:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MagnumMafia05 View Post
When I turned my xbox off before the projector in pitch black room I seen there is 1 pixel I think that is blue showing on the screen.. is that a dead pixel?
Most likely stuck / dead. It seems you're much more likely to find stuck pixels in the blue panels, perhaps JVC still use panels with stuck panels in the blue channel because they are harder to see (instead of junking them).
There are some websites that can sometimes purportedly fix stuck pixels. One such site is this:
http://www.jscreenfix.com/
They work by rapidly turning on / off the pixels and all the pixels around them. I've never had any luck with it, but there are people who have.
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post #10839 of 12858 Old 02-10-2019, 04:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob_in_NorCal View Post
A few weeks ago I reported a "stuck iris" with my RS640 in the middle of a ChadB calibration. The unit was shipped on Jan 21 in California and was returned on Feb 2 - just before the Super Bowl. However, based on the packing slip, not only was the iris replaced but the XD1-0155-52 Processor Board as well. All calibration and settings were apparently wiped out, and even "lamp hours" was reset. Before ChadB left, he did back up to a .cdb file. My choice now is a) assume that the cal session is lost and wait for another cal nearly a year out, or b) attempt to restore from the .cdb file. Unless the .cdb file includes other settings besides gamma, it may be pointless. Also, I don't know anything about the electrical architecture of the projector and whether the "processor board" includes analog components or tolerances which could alter gamma measurements. I don't have calibration equipment of my own to do a check. Thoughts?

Out of interest, are there part numbers for the iris bits replaced? In the ancient X3 family the lamp iris wasn't listed as a replaceable item in it's own right, it was the whole optical block got swapped.

And can you grab the version numbers off the various boards? There is a service menu screen which displays them. UP DOWN RIGHT LEFT ENTER on the remote brings up the service menu.

Re: calibration; there would be a question as to whether the lamp iris was actually in the "true" position when calibrated or not. It might have just been in "a" position. To know this you'd need to reload the settings and compare the light output.

If you had a cheap meter and reloaded all the settings, doing a basic check of the gamma, gamut and white balance would give you a good idea if the calibration had moved across successfully.

Unfortunately it is all a bit black box and no-one (who publicly posts here on the matter) knows. The last time a service manual and procedures escaped into the wild was around the DLA-X3 age of projectors (6-7 years ago). This showed that at least one adjustment on having a new CPU board fitted required the use of a colorimeter to set, or an EEPPROM backup, which could lead to some fluctuation / omitted step that could render calibration settings sub optimal.

Your best bet would be trying to talk to an actual engineer at JVC or their service provider if possible who might be able to tell you exactly what the current procedures are when replacing a mainboar. Do feed back if you get some info out of them.

FYI this is from the old X3 service manual, so I'm sure this level of detail exists...

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post #10840 of 12858 Old 02-10-2019, 09:12 AM
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Most of the active ones are asking too much. That why they haven’t sold
Supply and demand, little to no supply and pretty high demand actually..... These units are amazing for there price.....The Pioneer Kuro of projectors if you will
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post #10841 of 12858 Old 02-10-2019, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by ScottAvery View Post
Have you tested it again after having made the correction by moving it through the full range? When is the next time it fails? Does it fail again in the same session ?
I have already brought the unit to my local JVC service center. There was also a weird issue with my gamma, which suddenly devoleped a huge peak on low ires.
I thought it would be better to have the unit fully checked.
I'll come back to you guys as soon as I have feedback from the service center.
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post #10842 of 12858 Old 02-10-2019, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by bobof View Post
Most likely stuck / dead. It seems you're much more likely to find stuck pixels in the blue panels, perhaps JVC still use panels with stuck panels in the blue channel because they are harder to see (instead of junking them).
There are some websites that can sometimes purportedly fix stuck pixels. One such site is this:
http://www.jscreenfix.com/
They work by rapidly turning on / off the pixels and all the pixels around them. I've never had any luck with it, but there are people who have.
Guess 1 pixel isnt bad huh? Blue is better than white that's for sure! I just wasnt expecting that after spending this kind of money. And wont be telling the women that either.

So I dont need the HDFury linker for this JVC for anything? Swear people used it for the iris for something but google isnt turning it up so maybe it was a different unit.

So the consensus is that the spyder pro 5 is worth the money and time? I def would like to be able to do some calibration myself and see how the bulb is doing along the way with brightness.

What is droop on here?

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post #10843 of 12858 Old 02-10-2019, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by MagnumMafia05 View Post
Guess 1 pixel isnt bad huh? Blue is better than white that's for sure! I just wasnt expecting that after spending this kind of money. And wont be telling the women that either.

So I dont need the HDFury linker for this JVC for anything? Swear people used it for the iris for something but google isnt turning it up so maybe it was a different unit.

So the consensus is that the spyder pro 5 is worth the money and time? I def would like to be able to do some calibration myself and see how the bulb is doing along the way with brightness.

What is droop on here?
You will only need the Spyder 5 Express, don't waste your money getting any of the more expensive models. The only difference between them is the software it comes with of which you will not be using as you will use the JVC Software.

Running the gamma calibration was pretty straight forward and corrected everything on my X790. But after I was done I really couldn't tell any difference. I would probably have to see a before and after shot to see how it actually affected the picture.
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post #10844 of 12858 Old 02-10-2019, 02:15 PM
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But after I was done I really couldn't tell any difference. I would probably have to see a before and after shot to see how it actually affected the picture.
That depends on how severe your gamma drop was, before running autocal.
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post #10845 of 12858 Old 02-10-2019, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by coxy2416 View Post
But after I was done I really couldn't tell any difference. I would probably have to see a before and after shot to see how it actually affected the picture.
That depends on how severe your gamma drop was, before running autocal.
This is true. This is what mine looked like and I couldn’t tell you if that’s really bad or not.
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post #10846 of 12858 Old 02-10-2019, 02:21 PM
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This is true. This is what mine looked like and I couldn’t tell you if that’s really bad or not.
This looks fairly typical for gamma droop.
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post #10847 of 12858 Old 02-10-2019, 02:52 PM
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This is true. This is what mine looked like and I couldn’t tell you if that’s really bad or not.
Looks just like mine did. Maybe a little more severe than mine. I have about 400 hrs right now.
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post #10848 of 12858 Old 02-10-2019, 04:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bobof View Post
Out of interest, are there part numbers for the iris bits replaced? In the ancient X3 family the lamp iris wasn't listed as a replaceable item in it's own right, it was the whole optical block got swapped.

And can you grab the version numbers off the various boards? There is a service menu screen which displays them. UP DOWN RIGHT LEFT ENTER on the remote brings up the service menu.

Unfortunately it is all a bit black box and no-one (who publicly posts here on the matter) knows. The last time a service manual and procedures escaped into the wild was around the DLA-X3 age of projectors (6-7 years ago). This showed that at least one adjustment on having a new CPU board fitted required the use of a colorimeter to set, or an EEPPROM backup, which could lead to some fluctuation / omitted step that could render calibration settings sub optimal.

Your best bet would be trying to talk to an actual engineer at JVC or their service provider if possible who might be able to tell you exactly what the current procedures are when replacing a mainboar. Do feed back if you get some info out of them.

FYI this is from the old X3 service manual, so I'm sure this level of detail exists...
Is it known if the eshift 5 series had a hardware change somewhere along the line (after a specific build date) as part of the nx pre release r&d?

IE, were any new components on the nx units, actually secretly brought to later builds of the eshift5 units for field testing?
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post #10849 of 12858 Old 02-10-2019, 05:08 PM
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Is it known if the eshift 5 series had a hardware change somewhere along the line (after a specific build date) as part of the nx pre release r&d?

IE, were any new components on the nx units, actually secretly brought to later builds of the eshift5 units for field testing?
Good luck ever finding out that level of detail! . I'd imagine anyone who knows certainly won't be talking...
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post #10850 of 12858 Old 02-10-2019, 05:55 PM
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I have setup Jeff Meier to come calibrate my RS540 in April! I can’t wait.

Now I have to go back and watch all my movies again, lol. We are watching the Harry Potter UHD’s and almost through, so now I’m going to have to back and rewatch.
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Originally Posted by ddigler View Post
Using my lux meter with several different full field patterns from Masciola here are the results I’m getting from left most edge to center to right most edge of screen respectively (16:9 AR, 120” diag):

215 250 150

I have been able to repeat these measurements across different patterns.

43% brightness variance from left edge to right edge of picture? I’m very new to projectors but this seems completely unacceptable to me… Can someone correct my thinking, am I overlooking something, is this typical or acceptable?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

Does this type of discrepancy in brightness (left edge picture up to 43% brighter than right and picture completely light control batcave) Is this situation typical? How can i be getting 50% less brightness on R as L side of screen?

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post #10852 of 12858 Old 02-10-2019, 08:44 PM
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Does this type of discrepancy in brightness (left edge picture up to 43% brighter than right and picture completely light control batcave) Is this situation typical? How can i be getting 50% less brightness on R as L side of screen?[/QUOTE]

I don't know if your situation is typical but it does sound a little extreme. Do you notice in regular viewing (i.e. not test patterns)?

I will say that the right side of my RS540's screen is slightly darker than the left side of the screen and both edges are a little darker than the center. I haven't measured how much they're off; I have a luminance meter but since it's only noticeable on full field white images and only if you're really looking for it I just haven't bothered.
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post #10853 of 12858 Old 02-11-2019, 01:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddigler View Post
Using my lux meter with several different full field patterns from Masciola here are the results I’m getting from left most edge to center to right most edge of screen respectively (16:9 AR, 120” diag):

215 250 150

I have been able to repeat these measurements across different patterns.

43% brightness variance from left edge to right edge of picture? I’m very new to projectors but this seems completely unacceptable to me… Can someone correct my thinking, am I overlooking something, is this typical or acceptable?

Clarifying data points: my throw is roughly 17 feet, mounted on the ceiling so picture is inverted. Projector is slightly offset to one side of the theater so there is some horizontal shift going on. shifting the horizontal placement of the picture to be directly square with the lens does nothing to correct the brightness discrepancies per above.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sorry, I missed this post. It does seem high in those terms, though if I'm honest I've not measured my own unit so I coudn't really "judge" it well. Maybe someone else has done a similar test.

Are these measurements facing the lens or the screen? obviously facing the screen you could be looking at differences in gain over the viewing cone resulting in difference of brightness on screen, particularly prevalent with higher gain or ALR screens.
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post #10854 of 12858 Old 02-11-2019, 04:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddigler View Post
Using my lux meter with several different full field patterns from Masciola here are the results I’m getting from left most edge to center to right most edge of screen respectively (16:9 AR, 120” diag):

215 250 150

I have been able to repeat these measurements across different patterns.

43% brightness variance from left edge to right edge of picture? I’m very new to projectors but this seems completely unacceptable to me… Can someone correct my thinking, am I overlooking something, is this typical or acceptable?

Clarifying data points: my throw is roughly 17 feet, mounted on the ceiling so picture is inverted. Projector is slightly offset to one side of the theater so there is some horizontal shift going on. shifting the horizontal placement of the picture to be directly square with the lens does nothing to correct the brightness discrepancies per above.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
How much zoom are you using?

In my x990 set up at near max zoom, the center is brighter than the edges, with the decline dropping off in a steady curve.

I would assume, but have not tested, min zoom would lower the output globally while reducing the variation across the screen.

Strikes me as just the physics of light travel thru the lens. A better lens could reduce the impact but would still exhibit a roll off as you move out toward the edges.

Typical lens vignetting. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vignetting
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Last edited by Bytehoven; 02-11-2019 at 04:28 AM.
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post #10855 of 12858 Old 02-11-2019, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Schwa View Post
Does this type of discrepancy in brightness (left edge picture up to 43% brighter than right and picture in completely light control batcave) Is this situation typical to these PJ's?

I don't know if your situation is typical but it does sound a little extreme. Do you notice in regular viewing (i.e. not test patterns)?
Great question - I do notice it, and typically in static menus while playing video games or menus on BD player, etc when I stop it becomes somewhat ovious. Will I notice it if I'm watching a FMV movie or TV? Yes but i don't hate the picture because of it. The picture looks amazing in virtually all content but I can definitely notice the right side is more dim...

Would any members be will to take 15 mins at some point and put up some patterns and take some measurements for brightness uniformity like I've done? 43% just doesn't seem acceptable to me but if its typical I"m not going to push for warranty/replcament...

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Originally Posted by Schwa View Post
I will say that the right side of my RS540's screen is slightly darker than the left side of the screen and both edges are a little darker than the center. I haven't measured how much they're off; I have a luminance meter but since it's only noticeable on full field white images and only if you're really looking for it I just haven't bothered.
Hey Schwa thanks for checking in. I agree the center of my lens, at 250 lux is the brightness with slight dropoff to left edge showing 210. Its that major reduction on the right edge of 150 lux that has me concerned...

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Originally Posted by bobof View Post
Sorry, I missed this post. It does seem high in those terms, though if I'm honest I've not measured my own unit so I coudn't really "judge" it well. Maybe someone else has done a similar test.
Thats what I'm hoping, that a few members take 15 mins, measure and check back (certainly nobody owes me this and no worries regardless, thats for sure). I agree with you Bob, 43% dropoff from left edge to right edge does seem high...

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Originally Posted by bobof View Post
Are these measurements facing the lens or the screen?
The lens. My meter is parallel with the screen and located approx 1/2" in front of the screen material, facing the lens.

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Originally Posted by bobof View Post
obviously facing the screen you could be looking at differences in gain over the viewing cone resulting in difference of brightness on screen, particularly prevalent with higher gain or ALR screens.
Good point. I do have a high gain (1.2) micro perf screen but I'm taking measurements from the lens.

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Originally Posted by Bytehoven View Post
How much zoom are you using? In my x990 set up at near max zoom, the center is brighter than the edges, with the decline dropping off in a steady curve.
I'm using approx 1.5x zoom.

Even a more consistent drop off I'd be fine with, something with a bit of consistency around borders of picture area. As it stands, from center of lens (the brightest spot, at 250 lux high lamp) my setup is 16% dimmer on left border of picture and 67% more dim on right most border of picture...
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post #10856 of 12858 Old 02-11-2019, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by coxy2416 View Post
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Originally Posted by rlarsen462 View Post
Looking for some input on a decision I need to make.

I have one of the X990's with the defective/malfunctioning lens irises. I have been given the option of sending it to JVC (shipping to them will be at my cost, estimated at $100-150) and waiting 2-3 weeks for the repair, along with all the risk of damage in shipment, or to receive a brand new unit via the rapid exchange process.

My current unit is not otherwise perfect, but has good focus and okay convergence, and very limited bright corners (to the point where I really don't see them at all in a fully darkened room). It has no dead pixels or other issues that I can see. Eshift noise is pretty much non-existent after it heats up. It does have the issue where it takes about 1.5 hours from cold start for the focus and shift to settle in. After the initial nitpicking process (this was actually my second unit, my first had a green line down the right side of the image), I've been pretty satisfied with this unit.

It's been made clear to me that unless the new unit (if I elect for rapid exchange) arrives damaged or blatantly defective I probably am not going to get a lot of traction for replacing the new unit again if it has poorer focus, convergence, brightness issues, etc. I cannot "shop" serial numbers of the available units and may in fact get another older manufacturing date unit with the possibility of iris failure. Warranty on the new unit would continue from this point (~1.5 years in) rather than resetting to a full 3 years. My current bulb has about 1500 hours on it so I would get the advantage of a new bulb in the new unit as well.

Given all that, would it be better to pay to send mine in and wait on a repair, facing the shipping risks and inherent risk of pulling the projector apart for a repair, or take the risk of "losing the lottery" on a new unit which will also have a new bulb (and could actually be better than my current unit overall)? I would say my biggest concerns would be getting a unit with poorer focus, brighter corners, or dead pixels.

Thanks for any advice, I'm kind of torn on this one.
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Originally Posted by bobof View Post
I'd spend some time trying to pump folk for details of what the fix is that they'd do, what is involved (is it a complete optical block replacement, or are the iris parts replaced), and what they can tell you about why the "new" unit (is it really brand new or refurb) wouldn't have the issue. You can reference the thread with all our failures and ask about it.

I'd think also about whether you are happy with the rest of the performance of your unit (eshift noise, focus, convergence, bright corners, etc). They're all things that can vary on a unit to unit basis.
However, if the repair involves a complete optical block replacement then many of those characteristics will leave with the old optical block, so you might not know the unit when it gets back anymore. The new lamp has to be attractive to you given how much use your old unit had.

On balance I probably wish I'd had my original unit repaired if it transpires it isn't an optical block replacement job, as this replacement has much brighter corners than that had.

Good luck! [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]
I talked to the guy at JVC about my JVC X790 that had a defective lens iris of which it would grind and just shut down. He said that my unit was an easy fix as essentially the pieces that make up the lens iris were just getting stuck on each other. More or less colliding into each other as they had disengaged from what ever track they are running on. At least that is how I kind on understood it.


I had only owned my unit for a few days so I ended up getting a free replacement. The e-shift ended up being louder then my first unit but over use has almost disappeared. I may here some noise for the first 10 mins and then it becomes very quiet and I only hear it when changing inputs.


I would advise you to go for the new unit for a few reasons.

1) There is a good chance something will get broken in shipment. I deal with shipping companies and they don't take much care in their deliveries. I am lucky to be within a 2hr drive of our JVC dealer so I drove my projector their when needed.

2) You are at 1500 hours and will get a free bulb. Those things aren't cheap!

3) You will save yourself $150
Did you end up getting your projector serviced or going with the replacement?

I will soon be on my 3rd X790 as my first unit had a defective DI which was replaced with the unit I currently have back in May. For some reason this one is acting up as well and it will also be getting replaced with a new projector.

Hopefully the 3rd times a charm!

I will give it to JVC Canada as their customer service has been top notch and they stand by their products. That’s a great company in my mind and although I’ve had issues I will not hesitate to buy or recommend a JVC going forward!
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post #10857 of 12858 Old 02-11-2019, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coxy2416 View Post
Did you end up getting your projector serviced or going with the replacement?

I will soon be on my 3rd X790 as my first unit had a defective DI which was replaced with the unit I currently have back in May. For some reason this one is acting up as well and it will also be getting replaced with a new projector.

Hopefully the 3rd times a charm!

I will give it to JVC Canada as their customer service has been top notch and they stand by their products. That’s a great company in my mind and although I’ve had issues I will not hesitate to buy or recommend a JVC going forward!
I am going to do the rapid exchange, but I am still working through it. Thanks for reminding me actually, I need to get that email sent out.

I'll update everyone with the the process and how the new unit stacks up. Just really worried about getting one with worse focus and brightness uniformity.
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post #10858 of 12858 Old 02-11-2019, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddigler View Post
Even a more consistent drop off I'd be fine with, something with a bit of consistency around borders of picture area. As it stands, from center of lens (the brightest spot, at 250 lux high lamp) my setup is 16% dimmer on left border of picture and 67% more dim on right most border of picture...
For what it is worth I'll measure my unit this eve if I get a mo. I don't have a lux meter, but I can use the spectro with diffuser down to take these kind of measurements too. My PJ is centred horizontally but on almost max vertical lens shift and zoom.
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post #10859 of 12858 Old 02-11-2019, 10:15 AM
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So if I use my hd fury linker and strip the hdr off the signal and use the hdr settings on the projector.. is that the same thing people are kind of doing using the panny ub820?

First pic is the fifth element 4k movie.

2nd pic is linker stripping hdr with linker.

3 pic is keeping hdr but using custom hdr on linker-max cll and fll is empty
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Denon X4400H Emotiva XPS-7 Balanced minidsp 2X4
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post #10860 of 12858 Old 02-11-2019, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobof View Post
For what it is worth I'll measure my unit this eve if I get a mo. I don't have a lux meter, but I can use the spectro with diffuser down to take these kind of measurements too. My PJ is centred horizontally but on almost max vertical lens shift and zoom.
If you get to it tonight great, thanks Bob. If not NP. ATM I just need to know if I have unreasonable expectations regarding brightness uniformity on these PJs...
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