Official JVC - 20LTD - RS640 (x990/x9900) - RS540 (X790/x7900) - Owners Thread - Page 387 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #11581 of 12542 Old 05-02-2019, 07:32 PM
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That is sweet! I’m going to take a look at that when I get back to my computer and check it out.

Does it address the various settings on the JVC related to madVR?
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post #11582 of 12542 Old 05-03-2019, 12:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Darthprater View Post
New RS540 on the way...most likely going with 135 inch screen. Which screen would you recommend?
Room is light controlled (black out curtains make it pitch black), dark grey walls and black ceiling with black velvet on projector wall and first 6 feet of ceiling. Overkill...maybe.
But as for the screen...once and a while we might have low ambient light when company is over and we are watching sports or something. Otherwise it’ll be completely black.
I’d like to keep the budget under $1k.
I will be watching both 3D and 4K movies.
Congratulations. If you like the 540 as much as we like ours you'll have many hours of pleasurable viewing. As far as screen's are concerned, how far from the screen is your primary viewing position? We're throwing the image on a 110" (16x9) screen and we sit about 8 feet from the screen. How close you sit is a big factor in screen size and brightness. Have you looked as the "used" market for a screen? Often people move and are forced to replace their screen. Start by checking the "for sale" section of this forum. Unless you move often, your screen will likely stay with you much longer than your projector. We're on our 3rd projector with this screen. It sounds like you've got a very nice room.
Thanks, this is all very exciting and I can’t wait to see how it performs!

I will be sitting 12 feet away from either a 135” or 120” screen. I’m going to test different sizes out when the projector arrives. I’ve been checking out the used section here and there, not seeing that much as of yet but I’ll keep my eyes open.

I guess I was more asking about screen material...going 1.3 gain vs 1.0 gain, white vs ALR, and basically those who are ecstatic with the value of the screen they purchased.
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post #11583 of 12542 Old 05-03-2019, 03:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Darthprater View Post
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Originally Posted by johng View Post
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Originally Posted by Darthprater View Post
New RS540 on the way...most likely going with 135 inch screen. Which screen would you recommend?
Room is light controlled (black out curtains make it pitch black), dark grey walls and black ceiling with black velvet on projector wall and first 6 feet of ceiling. Overkill...maybe.
But as for the screen...once and a while we might have low ambient light when company is over and we are watching sports or something. Otherwise it’ll be completely black.
I’d like to keep the budget under $1k.
I will be watching both 3D and 4K movies.
Congratulations. If you like the 540 as much as we like ours you'll have many hours of pleasurable viewing. As far as screen's are concerned, how far from the screen is your primary viewing position? We're throwing the image on a 110" (16x9) screen and we sit about 8 feet from the screen. How close you sit is a big factor in screen size and brightness. Have you looked as the "used" market for a screen? Often people move and are forced to replace their screen. Start by checking the "for sale" section of this forum. Unless you move often, your screen will likely stay with you much longer than your projector. We're on our 3rd projector with this screen. It sounds like you've got a very nice room.
Thanks, this is all very exciting and I can’t wait to see how it performs!

I will be sitting 12 feet away from either a 135” or 120” screen. I’m going to test different sizes out when the projector arrives. I’ve been checking out the used section here and there, not seeing that much as of yet but I’ll keep my eyes open.

I guess I was more asking about screen material...going 1.3 gain vs 1.0 gain, white vs ALR, and basically those who are ecstatic with the value of the screen they purchased.
I have a the 540 and a Stewart Studiotek 130. It’s not the cheapest screen but in my opinion it is one of the best if you can afford it.

I think it’s worth while spending more on the screen then on the projector. Most people will go through many projectors but once you buy a good screen it won’t need to be replaced for a long time.

With the 540 and the screen sizes your looking at you will want to be looking at a 1.3 gain screen. I do not think 1.0 will cut it especially with HDR material.
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post #11584 of 12542 Old 05-03-2019, 04:15 AM
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That is sweet! I’m going to take a look at that when I get back to my computer and check it out.

Does it address the various settings on the JVC related to madVR?


I think for any external Tone Mapping solution (Lumagen, MadVR, Panasonic) with most projectors, you would send SDR2020 to the widest color space the projector has available, and calibrate.

That is what Lumagen’s recommendation, so that is covered in that settings document.


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post #11585 of 12542 Old 05-03-2019, 07:22 AM
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Official JVC - 20LTD - RS640 (x990/x9900) - RS540 (X790/x7900) - Owners Thread

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Originally Posted by giomania View Post
I think for any external Tone Mapping solution (Lumagen, MadVR, Panasonic) with most projectors, you would send SDR2020 to the widest color space the projector has available, and calibrate.

That is what Lumagen’s recommendation, so that is covered in that settings document.


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Thanks!

Obviously I don’t have my projector just yet, but does the JVC autoswitch to HDR mode when receiving an HDR signal?

I’m wondering if I could use madVR to map the HDR content into the ranges that the projector can display, and keep it in an HDR color space. That way when HDR content is sent from MadVR, the JVC would automatically select HDR mode, which I would have calibrated to my liking already. I don’t know that I fully understand the details of how the JVC handles HDR content to explain what I’m thinking

I do know that I would definitely want different settings for HDR, SDR, and 3D material, and I’d like the JVC to automatically switch between the 3 when it receives different content.

Also, I would ask these questions in the MadVR thread, but they seem to be more about the JVC Tehran MadVR

Thanks!
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post #11586 of 12542 Old 05-03-2019, 07:27 AM
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Thanks!

Obviously I don’t have my projector just yet, but does the JVC autoswitch to HDR mode when receiving an HDR signal?

I’m wondering if I could use madVR to map the HDR content into the ranges that the projector can display, and keep it in an HDR color space. That way when HDR content is sent from MadVR, the JVC would automatically select HDR mode, which I would have calibrated to my liking already. I don’t know that I fully understand the details of how the JVC handles HDR content to explain what I’m thinking

I do know that I would definitely want different settings for HDR, SDR, and 3D material, and I’d like the JVC to automatically switch between the 3 when it receives different content.

Also, I would ask these questions in the MadVR thread, but they seem to be more about the JVC Tehran MadVR

Thanks!


Yes it will automatically switch into HDR mode, however you may want to run with or without the DCI-P3 filter, and the process to specifically choose whether it is on or off is detailed in the spreadsheet.

More advanced members figured all tthis stuff out; I just collected all the information in one place.

Mark


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post #11587 of 12542 Old 05-03-2019, 07:33 AM
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Official JVC - 20LTD - RS640 (x990/x9900) - RS540 (X790/x7900) - Owners Thread

Thanks Mark!

I’ve been trying to read though the spreadsheet on my phone (I’m on a 16hr flight right now), but it’s been a bit sketchy

I need to combine some MadVR learning with some JVC learning

I’m sure there are members here doing exactly what I want to do, I just need to find them and see if they’ve posted their setups so I can learn from them.
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post #11588 of 12542 Old 05-03-2019, 03:16 PM
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Here's bulb I used... just got and installed it this afternoon. $135USD

It was easy to replace after taking the lamp assembly out of the projector. I only needed a phillips screwdriver to remove and replace the bulb in the assembly.. I also used non-latex gloves to keep the oils from my hands off the new bulb.

Original Ushio Projector Lamp Replacement for JVC PK-L2615UP (Bulb Only)

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Did you put this lamp in the RS 540?
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post #11589 of 12542 Old 05-03-2019, 03:41 PM
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Did you put this lamp in the RS 540?
All of the models in this thread use the same lamp.
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post #11590 of 12542 Old 05-03-2019, 04:02 PM
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Did you put this lamp in the RS 540?
All of the models in this thread use the same lamp.
Yes and it’s working fine. I’m happy with it so far. I will take a light reading next week after 100 hrs.
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post #11591 of 12542 Old 05-03-2019, 04:38 PM
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I have a the 540 and a Stewart Studiotek 130. It’s not the cheapest screen but in my opinion it is one of the best if you can afford it.

I think it’s worth while spending more on the screen then on the projector. Most people will go through many projectors but once you buy a good screen it won’t need to be replaced for a long time.

With the 540 and the screen sizes your looking at you will want to be looking at a 1.3 gain screen. I do not think 1.0 will cut it especially with HDR material.


Thanks. Unfortunately the Stewart is indeed pretty far outside my budget. I spent the money on a good projector, and figured at least a decent screen would suffice. I’d like to keep it $1,000 or under if I can...but with the higher gain and smooth surface, that’s not looking very likely. Appreciate the feedback.


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post #11592 of 12542 Old 05-03-2019, 09:28 PM
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Caibration broke my RS540 (?)

I decided to run a calibration this evening on my RS540, having put another several hundred hours on it since the last one. Everything seemed to run smoothly, but then when I tried watching some stuff afterwards it was disastrous. Both HDR and HD content looked bad... very blotchy with a red color cast. Eventually I found that turning off Clear Motion Drive seemed to resolve it. But no idea on what might have happened or what I might have done wrong.

I've attached two examples, the first with CMD on, the other with it off. I would love to know how to resolve this. It's not an issue with the source material as both my Apple TV 4K and Oppo 203 are affected. Also, I tried turning everything off (incl. the projector) and back on, but that didn't resolve the issue either.
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post #11593 of 12542 Old 05-03-2019, 10:14 PM
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I decided to run a calibration this evening on my RS540, having put another several hundred hours on it since the last one. Everything seemed to run smoothly, but then when I tried watching some stuff afterwards it was disastrous. Both HDR and HD content looked bad... very blotchy with a red color cast. Eventually I found that turning off Clear Motion Drive seemed to resolve it. But no idea on what might have happened or what I might have done wrong.

I've attached two examples, the first with CMD on, the other with it off. I would love to know how to resolve this. It's not an issue with the source material as both my Apple TV 4K and Oppo 203 are affected. Also, I tried turning everything off (incl. the projector) and back on, but that didn't resolve the issue either.
Did the calibration logs show anything unusually?

It could be your Spyder. Some of them are not very accurate and people use them only for gamma (not colour) autocal. Turning off CMD doesn’t actually “fix” the problem; I suspect you ran autocal with CMD turned On, so the Off mode was not affected by the calibration.

I’m assuming there are no manual RGB Gains or offsets applied.
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post #11594 of 12542 Old 05-03-2019, 10:19 PM
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Did the calibration logs show anything unusually?

It could be your Spyder. Some of them are not very accurate and people use them only for gamma (not colour) autocal. Turning off CMD doesn’t actually “fix” the problem; I suspect you ran autocal with CMD turned On, so the Off mode was not affected by the calibration.

I’m assuming there are no manual RGB Gains or offsets applied.
I did not mess with the RGB stuff. I'm sure you're right, CMD was on for the calibration, though I've run it before and been happy with the results.

How can I "clear" these bad calibrations prior to making another attempt? Also, if I decide to do gamma only next time, is it obvious how to do that?

Thanks!
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post #11595 of 12542 Old 05-03-2019, 11:30 PM
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Thanks. Unfortunately the Stewart is indeed pretty far outside my budget. I spent the money on a good projector, and figured at least a decent screen would suffice. I’d like to keep it $1,000 or under if I can...but with the higher gain and smooth surface, that’s not looking very likely. Appreciate the feedback.


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It's really really difficult to find a 'budget' screen with any decent gain, as most gain screens present with terrible artifacts, even just a 1.2+ gain screen.
There may be some as I am certainly no screen expert that has seen them all, but every one I've sought after was pretty bad if the gain was higher than 1.1.

The best thing I know of is still the Da-lite High Power screens, if you can find a used one in the classifieds. Either the 2.4 or the 2.8 gain.
If you can find either of those, then you will really have some serious brightness to your image.

It's a pretty sad fact that most 1.2 to 1.5 gain screens look worse than the Da-Lite High Power screens (which are 2x-3x gain).
There is also the annoying problem of screen makers falsely advertising the gain, some claim 1.4 gain and are really 1.15 gain (wow, what a rip).

Otherwise, you can try your hand at a DIY paint job to get gain, no idea how that would look.
For me, even trying to paint a screen is too messy and too much trouble (at least for now).

BO cloth or spandex is a great holdover screen, the BO cloth you can tack right to the wall with no issues and no waves if done correctly.
They don't have any gain though, the BO cloth looks roughly the same as any other 1.0 gain screen (it's probably 0.90 gain or something).
So if you cannot figure out what screen to get, just put up some BO cloth for now.
For $25, you can have a temporary screen that looks just as good as most other white matte screens out there.

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post #11596 of 12542 Old 05-04-2019, 02:40 AM
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Originally Posted by JJ7 View Post
I decided to run a calibration this evening on my RS540, having put another several hundred hours on it since the last one. Everything seemed to run smoothly, but then when I tried watching some stuff afterwards it was disastrous. Both HDR and HD content looked bad... very blotchy with a red color cast. Eventually I found that turning off Clear Motion Drive seemed to resolve it. But no idea on what might have happened or what I might have done wrong.

I've attached two examples, the first with CMD on, the other with it off. I would love to know how to resolve this. It's not an issue with the source material as both my Apple TV 4K and Oppo 203 are affected. Also, I tried turning everything off (incl. the projector) and back on, but that didn't resolve the issue either.

CMD On/Off is independent when calibrating. You have to do both. So what has happened is you messed up one of them. The reason it is messed up is likely because your meter did not get good readings when you ran the autocal. Put the meter as close to the right edge of the recommended rectangle to maximize the light it sees at low light levels. Pay attention to the readings it takes to be sure you get a couple of significant figures (IIRC, I could get 0.1xx or higher on RGB) at the lowest end and the top end does not clip.


Go read the calibration thread. Dominic and a few others have some good posts about this over there.
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post #11597 of 12542 Old 05-04-2019, 05:22 AM
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How can I "clear" these bad calibrations prior to making another attempt? Also, if I decide to do gamma only next time, is it obvious how to do that?
AFAIK there's no need to clear the bad results. Running autocal again will overwrite them.

It's easy to change to Gamma Only (the options are in the Settings screen). However, if you had good results before then no need to restrict it to Gamma Only.
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post #11598 of 12542 Old 05-04-2019, 07:36 PM
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AFAIK there's no need to clear the bad results. Running autocal again will overwrite them.

It's easy to change to Gamma Only (the options are in the Settings screen). However, if you had good results before then no need to restrict it to Gamma Only.
Thanks, folks. Running the calibration again this time with the sensor significantly closer to the projector. Thus far the results look good
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post #11599 of 12542 Old 05-04-2019, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Darthprater View Post
Thanks. Unfortunately the Stewart is indeed pretty far outside my budget. I spent the money on a good projector, and figured at least a decent screen would suffice. I’d like to keep it $1,000 or under if I can...but with the higher gain and smooth surface, that’s not looking very likely. Appreciate the feedback.
Something else I just thought of in the used screen market is maybe a Carada Brilliant White at 1.4 gain.
https://www.projectorreviews.com/car...pros-and-cons/

Unfortunately, Carada is no more, but there may even be some new stock floating around still somewhere (who knows)...
Between the Da-Lite HP and that one, you might find one used somewhere in the AVS classifieds.

Otherwise, you may have to settle for less gain and just get a Silver Ticket or something.

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post #11600 of 12542 Old 05-04-2019, 09:58 PM
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Something else I just thought of in the used screen market is maybe a Carada Brilliant White at 1.4 gain.

https://www.projectorreviews.com/car...pros-and-cons/



Unfortunately, Carada is no more, but there may even be some new stock floating around still somewhere (who knows)...

Between the Da-Lite HP and that one, you might find one used somewhere in the AVS classifieds.



Otherwise, you may have to settle for less gain and just get a Silver Ticket or something.


What is your opinion on the Grandview uhd130 screen? Looks like a decent deal for what they offer


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post #11601 of 12542 Old 05-04-2019, 11:31 PM
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What is your opinion on the Grandview uhd130 screen? Looks like a decent deal for what they offer
Never seen one, you can read about it in this thread, he seemed to like it.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-sc...ed-screen.html

I would caution though and say a lot of people may not be as picky as some others, so one review is just that, only one review.

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post #11602 of 12542 Old 05-06-2019, 07:43 AM
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Thanks. Unfortunately the Stewart is indeed pretty far outside my budget. I spent the money on a good projector, and figured at least a decent screen would suffice. I’d like to keep it $1,000 or under if I can...but with the higher gain and smooth surface, that’s not looking very likely. Appreciate the feedback.


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Have you considered DIY? Here's my Silver Fire screen at 1.3 gain with RS540U. Very happy with the results.
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post #11603 of 12542 Old 05-07-2019, 04:19 PM
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I just installed a new RS540 and I have a couple of questions I haven't found the answer for:

1. Compared to my low entry LG PF1500 dlp the Directv Info text is not nearly as clear on the JVC. I have turned off eshift and the pixels are not as focused and have little(very small) electronic sparkles around them. Kind of like static. Can't be seen from afar but very visible from a foot or two.

2. Maybe my focus is not as good but I find focusing difficult. Is there a way to focus with a live picture like the DTV image with the Info text showing.

3. When I put up the info screen the text has a slight gray or green shadow on much of the text. I have not looked at the pixel adjust facility yet but when I display and adjust the focus the grid lines do not show a convergence problem. What could be causing this issue. It is not present on my PF 1500.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Edit: Found #2 . Turned off the focus pattern and used the Info screen for focusing. I was able to get a slightly better focus and the picture looks better for sure. Still have gray or green around the text. Basically the pixel will be that color instead of white like the text body or the color of the background picture.

Jack

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post #11604 of 12542 Old 05-07-2019, 06:03 PM
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Green would mean both Red and Blue need to be adjusted.

Using yellow or cyan narrows the adjustment to one colour at a time (blue or red, respectively), in cases such as this where you need to adjust both.

It’s much easier to start with the whole screen / whole pixel adjusment. That would show you the effect of adjusting each colour. You can simply reset the adjustment if things look worse.
Dominic,

Are you saying that if my Focus, Zoom, and Adjust grids are a greenish color then I need to adjust red and blue? Are the grid lines supposed to be white?

Jack
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post #11605 of 12542 Old 05-07-2019, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by JackB View Post
Dominic,

Are you saying that if my Focus, Zoom, and Adjust grids are a greenish color then I need to adjust red and blue? Are the grid lines supposed to be white?
No, the Lens Control grid lines are green for JVC projectors. My previous comment referred to the panel alignment lines, which should be white.
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post #11606 of 12542 Old 05-07-2019, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
No, the Lens Control grid lines are green for JVC projectors. My previous comment referred to the panel alignment lines, which should be white.
OK. I'll check those lines.

Jack
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post #11607 of 12542 Old 05-07-2019, 08:45 PM
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I read that it's best to focus while in native resolution (1080p) with eShift off. Then when done focusing, switch back to 4K with with eShift on.
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post #11608 of 12542 Old 05-07-2019, 08:49 PM
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I have a question about the power cord. The manual states "When you are not using the projector, please unplug the power cord from the outlet" but that would be very difficult in my case because the outlet is behind a big/heavy piece of furniture. Why should it be unplugged and what are the negative affects of leaving plugged in?
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post #11609 of 12542 Old 05-07-2019, 09:05 PM
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any reason to avoid the jvc x790r

i figured it would be good to ask the official thread if there are any issues with the jvc x790r that i should look for when buying used? i cant find any info on any common problems which seems good. any Thing special about LCOS to look at. anyone know how to enter service menu (maybe check to verify hours)
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post #11610 of 12542 Old 05-07-2019, 09:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Neverbicker View Post
I have a question about the power cord. The manual states "When you are not using the projector, please unplug the power cord from the outlet" but that would be very difficult in my case because the outlet is behind a big/heavy piece of furniture. Why should it be unplugged and what are the negative affects of leaving plugged in?
They put that stuff in the manual for legal reasons, it's in case it burns your house down from a short while you are gone.
That said, unplugging it does save SOME electricity even when the projector is turned off.

What I do is just turn off the surge protector when I'm leaving for long periods of time.
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