Official JVC - 20LTD - RS640 (x990/x9900) - RS540 (X790/x7900) - Owners Thread - Page 396 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #11851 of 13601 Old 06-19-2019, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
The 520 is clearly and plainly listed as having 8-Bit Color Processing.








"If" you or someone else can post a screen shot of the Info Window showing that it is processing Video in 12 bit Color, or provide some magical way one can make it do so...I'll gladly retract. The fact that it will "accept 12-Bit Color doesn't mean it will provide 12-Bit Color
You are correct, someone does not have the correct info. Check and see what it says for the RS500, RS600, RS540 and RS640, since they are all the same projector engine. If you want proof, ask any owner to hit info and send you a picture. The RS500, RS520, RS600, RS620, RS540 and RS640 all do 12 bit. This pretty common info. Ask in the threads for any of those models and the owners will confirm.

Added
'I see Zombie beat me too it. I was coming back to post about how banding would be plainly seen, but read his post, pointing it out already. You need to retract your post.
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post #11852 of 13601 Old 06-20-2019, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
Except I am pretty sure they are not an authorized JVC dealer.
Seeing they advertise there price and have add to cart function on there website I would say they are not...

Quote:
Originally Posted by bernito View Post
I have an opportunity to buy a "used" X790 from a neighbor for $3k. I helped him mount it a few months ago and it has 60 hours on it. He is moving to a downtown condo, that does not have room for a big screen. It seems like a good deal since I know the msrp dropped to $4k, but I do not know what you can actually buy these new or used for since the NX7 came out. Thoughts?
The X790R/540U has not been discontinued as of yet.
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post #11853 of 13601 Old 06-20-2019, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by bernito View Post
I have an opportunity to buy a "used" X790 from a neighbor for $3k. I helped him mount it a few months ago and it has 60 hours on it. He is moving to a downtown condo, that does not have room for a big screen. It seems like a good deal since I know the msrp dropped to $4k, but I do not know what you can actually buy these new or used for since the NX7 came out. Thoughts?
I would absolutely get it, practically new.

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post #11854 of 13601 Old 06-20-2019, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Solarium View Post
I would absolutely get it, practically new.
I am strongly considering it! I have an old Panasonic PT-AE3000u that is going to need a new bulb soon and have been looking at the Epson 5040u (refurb), Sony VPL-VW285ES (B stock) and my neighbor's slightly used JVC. They are priced at $1k increments from least to most expensive, so it is not a slam dunk although I would appreciate everyone's input.

I also need to buy a Transformative Engineering HDS-42AVR which will allow me to keep using my Anthem AVM-50 (non-3D). It allows you to split a 4K HDMI signal into audio (to go through the Anthem) and video (which will go straight to the projector) so that I can use my AppleTV 4K and not have to replace the Anthem which I love. Monster Audio has a version of the TE HDS-42AVR, but they claim it only works with their model 975 Surround Sound Processor. I find that doubtful, and would prefer to buy the Monster version as it is significantly less expensive. If anyone has any experience with these products, I would love to know the answer.
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post #11855 of 13601 Old 06-20-2019, 07:26 PM
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So my theater is still a ways off from being complete but grabbed the x790 anyway. I got to fire it up tonight for about 45 minutes just to test it out and all I can say is, wow. A good friend of mine has an Epson 5040 in a bat cave and my x790 out of the box in a room with white walls and ceiling destroyed it. I was shooting on to a Carl's white screen @106" sitting 8' from the screen. Netflix 4k was stunning. I could not make out any pixels at all and it looked as good as my 75" Sony 940e I have up in my living room. Can't wait to spend time getting it calibrated a little better, till then I'm back to drywalling and picking out a carpet.

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post #11856 of 13601 Old 06-20-2019, 08:12 PM
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[quote=speedo1512;58202730]
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Originally Posted by BdoUK View Post

Have you noticed if the iris still opens fully when you hear the click ?
Mine doesn't. It shows a diamond shape even if the scene projected is very bright. Funny thing is that both lens and lamp irises were replaced 2 months ago for the same problem....
I’m sure you already know this, but just in case...the iris won’t open all the way in either of the Auto modes unless the Manual setting is at 0 before the Auto mode is engaged. In other words, the iris will only open as far in Auto mode as the last Manual setting allowed.

Again, sorry to state the obvious...
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post #11857 of 13601 Old 06-21-2019, 12:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
That Link is for a RS520...a model that only has 8-bit Color Processing.


The low hours are a plus....but unless it was a 2018 purchase, you might be down to less than a year left on the Warranty


Also...the seller isn't a JVC Dealer, just a Owner.whose real business is :
TecnidentUSA..... manufactures and sells high quality orthodontic supplies

....so don't mouth off. It doesn't seem to be a bad deal though, however..............



For that $2999.00 you could walk into a NEW Epson 5050ub and save over $400.00 to boot. Just sayin'.
I'd take that used JVC over that Epson any day. Epson is a great way to have a "just ok" setup. If you're striving for the mediocre by all means, go epson. Epson, not terrible at anything, but not too great either. What you should be saying is, for the price of this 5050UB, you could get into a far better used JVC for only $400 more.
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post #11858 of 13601 Old 06-21-2019, 03:32 AM
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[quote=Schwa;58209578]
Quote:
Originally Posted by speedo1512 View Post

I’m sure you already know this, but just in case...the iris won’t open all the way in either of the Auto modes unless the Manual setting is at 0 before the Auto mode is engaged. In other words, the iris will only open as far in Auto mode as the last Manual setting allowed.

Again, sorry to state the obvious...
It has been my understanding that the numeric values control how open the lamp iris is. For example a 0 value means the lamp iris is fully open, allowing the most light out. It was not my understanding that this value (whether it be 0 or something like -7) had any effect on how far open or shut the DI would move in Auto 1 or Auto 2 mode since light would have already been limited by some amount with the lamp iris.
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post #11859 of 13601 Old 06-21-2019, 07:43 AM
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[quote=BdoUK;58210120]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schwa View Post

It has been my understanding that the numeric values control how open the lamp iris is. For example a 0 value means the lamp iris is fully open, allowing the most light out. It was not my understanding that this value (whether it be 0 or something like -7) had any effect on how far open or shut the DI would move in Auto 1 or Auto 2 mode since light would have already been limited by some amount with the lamp iris.
The numeric values control both the lamp and the lens (DI) iris. If you listen when you change the iris settings you can hear that the lamp iris only moves on every other step; the DI moves on the alternate steps.

When you place the projector into Auto mode after manually setting the iris, the projector will only automatically move the DI so that it's smaller than the manual setting, never bigger. In other words, in Auto mode, the DI will never be more open than what the last manual settings allowed it to be.
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post #11860 of 13601 Old 06-21-2019, 08:07 AM
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Quick question, does the 540/790 need HDR Gamma curves installed to view HDR programing.....
I use them on my RS400, 60nits/120nits works for most programing

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post #11861 of 13601 Old 06-21-2019, 08:39 AM
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Quick question, does the 540/790 need HDR curves installed to view HDR programing.....
I use them on my RS400, 60nits/120nits works for most programing
Models newer than the RS400 have built-in curves which are adjustable to a degree, but depending on your screen size, preference, etc., you may still want to load custom curves.

You’re don’t need an HDFury device to block Gamma D.
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post #11862 of 13601 Old 06-21-2019, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by giomania View Post
Hi Jack,

There are multiple worksheets on there. For example, the first one is from Bytehoven, and there is even a link to the thread post at the top of the spreadsheet. I created it in Excel, so I don't know how it would look in Google Sheets, but I would think it would look similar. If you don't have any calibration software, you can use the JVC software to upload custom curves. There is another thread dedicated to that process.

Mark
Upon a closer look at the Spreadsheet I see from memory that Bytehoven's settings are integrated into the sheet; although I haven't had a chance to verify that. Perhaps someone could PM their settings to you that could be added as another SDR and HDR tab.

BTW, thanks a lot for the sheet. It does a great job of making all the functions and the manual more understandable.
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post #11863 of 13601 Old 06-21-2019, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by JackB View Post
Upon a closer look at the Spreadsheet I see from memory that Bytehoven's settings are integrated into the sheet; although I haven't had a chance to verify that. Perhaps someone could PM their settings to you that could be added as another SDR and HDR tab.



BTW, thanks a lot for the sheet. It does a great job of making all the functions and the manual more understandable.


In the spreadsheet we do have @Bytehoven for SDR 1, @zombie10k for 3D SDR, Bytehoven HDR 1 and @Dominic Chan HDR 2, so I think that might cover all the “rock stars“ of JVC projector owners. LOL

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post #11864 of 13601 Old 06-21-2019, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by giomania View Post
In the spreadsheet we do have @Bytehoven for SDR 1, @zombie10k for 3D SDR, Bytehoven HDR 1 and @Dominic Chan HDR 2, so I think that might cover all the “rock stars“ of JVC projector owners. LOL

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Thanks. I'll check them out.

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post #11865 of 13601 Old 06-21-2019, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bernito View Post
I have an opportunity to buy a "used" X790 from a neighbor for $3k. I helped him mount it a few months ago and it has 60 hours on it. He is moving to a downtown condo, that does not have room for a big screen. It seems like a good deal since I know the msrp dropped to $4k, but I do not know what you can actually buy these new or used for since the NX7 came out. Thoughts?
That is a great deal on a barely used X790. I don't think you can go wrong.
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post #11866 of 13601 Old 06-21-2019, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bernito View Post
I have an opportunity to buy a "used" X790 from a neighbor for $3k. I helped him mount it a few months ago and it has 60 hours on it. He is moving to a downtown condo, that does not have room for a big screen. It seems like a good deal since I know the msrp dropped to $4k, but I do not know what you can actually buy these new or used for since the NX7 came out. Thoughts?
I think thats a good deal especially since it's a local projector from a guy you know.

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post #11867 of 13601 Old 06-21-2019, 05:51 PM
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I’m working on getting my 790 all calibrated. Just wondering, in a light controlled room, does the black of the projector, say the letter boxes on a movie, match the black velvet of the screen surround? Mine doesn’t. I’m loving the contrast and the blacks, but certainly there is a very noticeable difference between the screen surround and the letter boxes.

Is that normal or is this thing able to get close and I need to keep working on it?
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post #11868 of 13601 Old 06-21-2019, 06:19 PM
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[quote=Schwa;58209578]
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Originally Posted by speedo1512 View Post

I’m sure you already know this, but just in case...the iris won’t open all the way in either of the Auto modes unless the Manual setting is at 0 before the Auto mode is engaged. In other words, the iris will only open as far in Auto mode as the last Manual setting allowed.

Again, sorry to state the obvious...
yes sorry I didn't specify it. I usually keep my iris set at 0 with Auto 1 engaged.
I have already contacted my local service center and it looks like they will replace both iris once more.
I hope to be more lucky this time
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post #11869 of 13601 Old 06-22-2019, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by DrJykill View Post
I’m working on getting my 790 all calibrated. Just wondering, in a light controlled room, does the black of the projector, say the letter boxes on a movie, match the black velvet of the screen surround? Mine doesn’t. I’m loving the contrast and the blacks, but certainly there is a very noticeable difference between the screen surround and the letter boxes.

Is that normal or is this thing able to get close and I need to keep working on it?
The black bars aren't going to match the velvet especially when the screen has bright content. If you have the dynamic iris enabled, (and I think you should) and you play a very dark scene, then the black bars will get much dimmer. But then on brighter scenes, they will get brighter again. There's no substitute for a good masking system.
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post #11870 of 13601 Old 06-23-2019, 05:29 PM
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Is it possible for the lens memory to shift without prompt? It’s possible my projector is moving slightly from bass or my wife and kids slamming the theater door and then telling me that wasn’t slamming, lol. I probably just need to retighten the mount, but thought it was worth the ask.

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post #11871 of 13601 Old 06-23-2019, 05:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solarium View Post
I can't get my xbox to recognize the JVC as a HDR capable output device, I'm using the same HDMI cables as I did as my previous HT3550 setup (which my xbox did recognize). Is there additional settings on the JVC I need to enable to support HDR?
You don’t need to enable anything in the projector for it to recognized as HDR capable. Is your cable Certified Premium? If not, try a cable like the one in the link below.

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=24187

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post #11872 of 13601 Old 06-24-2019, 06:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Riddle View Post
Is it possible for the lens memory to shift without prompt? It’s possible my projector is moving slightly from bass or my wife and kids slamming the theater door and then telling me that wasn’t slamming, lol. I probably just need to retighten the mount, but thought it was worth the ask.
Unfortunately, one of the complaints with this series projectors was the lens shift wandering a little. Is worse for those with bezel-less screens.
It also matters how you end on your lens shift. Try adjusting it up then ending so you end by going only down. If that doesn't work do it the opposite way. The thinking here is that the gears lock better when ending with tension going one direction.

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post #11873 of 13601 Old 06-24-2019, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Riddle View Post
Is it possible for the lens memory to shift without prompt? It’s possible my projector is moving slightly from bass or my wife and kids slamming the theater door and then telling me that wasn’t slamming, lol. I probably just need to retighten the mount, but thought it was worth the ask.

Tom,


If you retained the Foam Lens Spacer Ring, you can take pieces of it and selectively "shim" on the side of the unwanted shift to prevent Migration.
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post #11874 of 13601 Old 06-24-2019, 01:23 PM
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Lens shift wanders a bit on most projectors with lens memory, people just don't notice it as much unless changing lens memory settings.

It's like before I went scope, I couldn't tell you if my lens shift floats a bit on the older JVC's, but as soon as I went scope, I immediately noticed it.
Before using lens memory, it was so easy to correct and it happened so rarely that you just assume the projector itself or mount may have drifted with settling or something.

I tend to prefer shelf mounting anyhow, especially on any lamp based projector, for LASER ceiling mounting is ok. However, I'm high-usage and have to change lamps too often to be ceiling mounting.

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post #11875 of 13601 Old 06-24-2019, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Tom,


If you retained the Foam Lens Spacer Ring, you can take pieces of it and selectively "shim" on the side of the unwanted shift to prevent Migration.
And could damage the lens motor if it gets too tight in there or misplaced and you're half asleep one day pressing a LENS SHIFT arrow button on the remote and wondering why it won't work. Then suddenly 3 months later the motorized lens shift stops working entirely.

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post #11876 of 13601 Old 06-24-2019, 02:30 PM
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I tend to prefer shelf mounting anyhow.
I was thinking that I'd go this route. I've always ceiling mounted but the unit is super heavy and feel more confident in a shelf this time around. I'll have to build a shelf just behind my ibeam for the 15 or so throw I want.

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post #11877 of 13601 Old 06-24-2019, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
Unfortunately, one of the complaints with this series projectors was the lens shift wandering a little. Is worse for those with bezel-less screens.
It also matters how you end on your lens shift. Try adjusting it up then ending so you end by going only down. If that doesn't work do it the opposite way. The thinking here is that the gears lock better when ending with tension going one direction.
Thanks - I was curious as everything seems right on my mount. It doesn’t drift too bad and I wouldn’t notice it all that much, but my masking system makes it apparent once the panels are closed. It takes 2 seconds to fix it, so no worries.

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post #11878 of 13601 Old 06-24-2019, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Tom,


If you retained the Foam Lens Spacer Ring, you can take pieces of it and selectively "shim" on the side of the unwanted shift to prevent Migration.
Thanks. I probably have it somewhere, but it doesn’t shift that much or that often, so I will just adjust it when I notice it. Good to know that 8m not the only one!

Routh Family Theater - My Dedicated Home Theater Build - 7.1.4 Atmos Setup
Seymour AV 100" Electronic Masking Screen - Klipsch RF-7 II's, RC-64 II, RS-62 II's, RS-52 II's, CDT-5650 II-C x 4 - PSA V3600I Sub
Marantz AV7705 with TK421 Modification - Panasonic UBD 820
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post #11879 of 13601 Old 06-24-2019, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Krbass View Post
I was thinking that I'd go this route. I've always ceiling mounted but the unit is super heavy and feel more confident in a shelf this time around. I'll have to build a shelf just behind my ibeam for the 15 or so throw I want.

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I wish I had that option, but my theater was built out in my attic space and there is a utility door at the back that is just below where my projector is ceiling mounted.

Routh Family Theater - My Dedicated Home Theater Build - 7.1.4 Atmos Setup
Seymour AV 100" Electronic Masking Screen - Klipsch RF-7 II's, RC-64 II, RS-62 II's, RS-52 II's, CDT-5650 II-C x 4 - PSA V3600I Sub
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post #11880 of 13601 Old 06-24-2019, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by coderguy View Post
And could damage the lens motor if it gets too tight in there or misplaced and you're half asleep one day pressing a LENS SHIFT arrow button on the remote and wondering why it won't work. Then suddenly 3 months later the motorized lens shift stops working entirely.
That's kinda silly and assumptive that someone with the described issue that he solved by using a Foam Shim would go into the Lens Control Menu (...there is no Stand Alone Button...) and start using Lens Shift already knowing he has no reason to? Plenty of time to Wake Up.

C'mon.......it's a low tech fix that incorporates foam...not a solid, and it's a solution that has been used before, all the way back to beginnings of Motorized Lens Shift, (JVC, Panasonic then Epson) because some variance over time has always been noticed, and shimming has always been a solution. And then there is the Manual Shifts which also had the same issue.

I really don't think that response warrants much consideration.

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