Official JVC - 20LTD - RS640 (x990/x9900) - RS540 (X790/x7900) - Owners Thread - Page 399 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #11941 of 12569 Old 07-01-2019, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rinse82 View Post
Do I still need to tinker with other settings (ie brightness, contrast) if I use custom curves?
I hate to break it to you, but since you are a member of this forum the answer is probably 'Yes'
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post #11942 of 12569 Old 07-01-2019, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solarium View Post
Today, my RS540 started having some weird HDMI connection issues or something. It would randomly display a black screen, or the screen would have some abnormal artifacts, and then it would just not display anything anymore until I switch to a different source (1080p) content on the receiver and then it would do the same thing again. None of the source is changed, still Xbox one X to Denon X3400h to JVC. Is this some kind of overheating issue? The front of the projector is open but the rear is close to black out curtains, the bottom is on a platform and top is clear.
Huh mine is doing the same thing with my HTPC. I thought it was the PC. I game in 4K and had no issues until a month or so ago. Exact same issues. Screen goes black and then artifacts on the right side of the screen until I switch to 1080p content. Was trying all kinds of different settings and I thought about buying fiber optic HDMI cables or installing an older driver for the GPU. All this time I thought it was my PC but the fact you have the same issue on the Xbox makes me think it's the pj. It's definitely not a heat issue since mine is completely open to the room.
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post #11943 of 12569 Old 07-01-2019, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rinse82 View Post
Do I still need to tinker with other settings (ie brightness, contrast) if I use custom curves?
Quote:
Originally Posted by johng View Post
I hate to break it to you, but since you are a member of this forum the answer is probably 'Yes'
Cute joke, but you would not arbitrarily use the user controls after loading a curve. Set them all to zero. Typically you will get a better result by either adjusting the curve directly in Arve's or by choosing a different curve with more appropriate peak nits target and/or roll off.

The one exception I am aware of is that there are some titles with a slightly raised black level that you might get a better experience with a couple clicks of brightness. otherwise, leave the user controls at zero - the curve already accounts for everything.
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post #11944 of 12569 Old 07-02-2019, 07:23 AM
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Of course, Scott is correct. Leave the controls alone unless you feel your bulb is dimming.

Good Viewing,John G  JVC DLA-X790 Projector, Vutec 110" (16x9) Bright White Screen, Oppo UDP-203 region free MOD disc player, Zappiti Mini4K HDR, Synology DS418 NAS, Yamaha RX-A2070 AVR, Toshiba 1250 NTSC-PAL Region Free BR Player, 7 Paradigm Reference spkrs w Dual Subs,   & Yamaha 6600 External Amp
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post #11945 of 12569 Old 07-02-2019, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solarium View Post
Today, my RS540 started having some weird HDMI connection issues or something. It would randomly display a black screen, or the screen would have some abnormal artifacts, and then it would just not display anything anymore until I switch to a different source (1080p) content on the receiver and then it would do the same thing again. None of the source is changed, still Xbox one X to Denon X3400h to JVC. Is this some kind of overheating issue? The front of the projector is open but the rear is close to black out curtains, the bottom is on a platform and top is clear.
Does not sound like over heating to me, take the unit out of that situation for a while and then you would know for sure. You might want to make sure you have ventilation in the back, if there is a will there is a way

Last edited by Cleveland Plasma; 07-07-2019 at 09:23 AM.
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post #11946 of 12569 Old 07-02-2019, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post
Do you have the original receipt it was purchased under? If so you would have not have an issue. Now without the original receipt that could be a battle. A manufacturer may go by date on the unit if you where lucky or no coverage at all since you do not have a proof of purchase. Even if you buy used, always get that original receipt, if the person does not have it, I would offer less
I did get an emailed copy of the original receipt but it was made out to the original owner. I was looking at repairing this right as the warranty was expiring so I may have been SOL regardless. In any case, I am glad reseating the lamp was all it took to fix my issue.
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post #11947 of 12569 Old 07-04-2019, 09:30 AM
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Happy 4th guys! Hope everyone has time to fire up their projector today. If you're not sure what to watch, it might be a good day to reboot Will Smith's Independence Day in all its JVC projected glory. 🇺🇸🍺🍔🎥🌭🍺🇺🇸
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post #11948 of 12569 Old 07-04-2019, 11:09 AM
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I just hooked my X790 up and realized that I need to set the output of my UB820 to 1080P since the PJ does the e-shift, otherwise for 1080P content I cannot select to turn off E-shift. I feel like the picture is very grainy on 1080P content with 4k eshift on. Any recommendations for other PJ/ UB 820 picture settings? I left the optimizer on for the BD- Player, and seems like HDR gets picked up automatically BY the PJ from the source material even when it is set to 1080P and puts the picture in HDR mode. Hope I am doing things correctly, need to test some more 4K content to confirm.
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post #11949 of 12569 Old 07-04-2019, 01:13 PM
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Kind of a general question at this point, but is their any difference in image position/shift range when my RS 640 is shelf mounted (sitting on its four adjustable feet) 5 inches above top of screen as opposed to having it in the same location above the screen, but sitting inverted as it would be with a ceiling mount? I am trying to use lens shift to bring a 2.40:1 image down so that the bottom of the image is even with the bottom of the screen but I do not have enough shift range to accomplish this. I am hoping to use lens memory to have the image at bottom of screen for 2.40:1 images and another memory for a 16x9 image. Consulting the JVC manual did not clarify this for me.

When I did my initial setup with 16x9 image, it seemed that I had to use a lot more lens shift than I expected to get the bottom of the image to line up with bottom of screen. I have done setups with JVC projectors on a coffee table with lens close to bottom of screen and it seems that I am close to the center of the shift range to fit the image to a screen, and same applies when I have used a ceiling mount with the projector inverted and lens center close to the top of the screen.

I cannot lower the shelf position since the projector is in the master BR on the other side of the theaters back wall projecting through a framed opening in the wall. It is mounted as low as possible to clear the top of the BR entry door which is 8 feet tall. Projector is also centered on the screen in it current location. The screen is an SI Solo Pro, mounted to the front wall on wood corbels that allow the screen to extend out enough to clear my 65" Samsung curved TV (I know, curved??? This is a 4K KS9800 which was only available as a curved screen when I bought it) mounted to front wall with a full motion wall mount which closes to about 5 inches away from wall. The Solo Pro clears the retracted TV by about an inch when it is dropped down, with bottom of screen stopping about 2 inches below bottom edge of TV. Screen is 16x9 110" dia, 96"w x 54" high. Projector lens is 17ft 3" to screen surface.

I am assuming that if I invert the projector on the shelf it might fix the problem, but this would not be a suitable option due to the projector being unstable and non adjustable in this configuration. If inverting the projector is a fix, I can use a ceiling mount and nix the shelf mount idea.

Thanks in advance for any insight on this.

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post #11950 of 12569 Old 07-04-2019, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV-NUT-99 View Post
Kind of a general question at this point, but is their any difference in image position/shift range when my RS 640 is shelf mounted (sitting on its four adjustable feet) 5 inches above top of screen as opposed to having it in the same location above the screen, but sitting inverted as it would be with a ceiling mount?
Other than direction, there is no difference at all in the amount of lens shift between the two options (when measured from the center of the lens).

Last edited by Dominic Chan; 07-05-2019 at 06:48 AM.
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post #11951 of 12569 Old 07-05-2019, 06:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV-NUT-99 View Post
Kind of a general question at this point, but is their any difference in image position/shift range when my RS 640 is shelf mounted (sitting on its four adjustable feet) 5 inches above top of screen as opposed to having it in the same location above the screen, but sitting inverted as it would be with a ceiling mount? I am trying to use lens shift to bring a 2.40:1 image down so that the bottom of the image is even with the bottom of the screen but I do not have enough shift range to accomplish this. I am hoping to use lens memory to have the image at bottom of screen for 2.40:1 images and another memory for a 16x9 image. Consulting the JVC manual did not clarify this for me.

When I did my initial setup with 16x9 image, it seemed that I had to use a lot more lens shift than I expected to get the bottom of the image to line up with bottom of screen. I have done setups with JVC projectors on a coffee table with lens close to bottom of screen and it seems that I am close to the center of the shift range to fit the image to a screen, and same applies when I have used a ceiling mount with the projector inverted and lens center close to the top of the screen.

I cannot lower the shelf position since the projector is in the master BR on the other side of the theaters back wall projecting through a framed opening in the wall. It is mounted as low as possible to clear the top of the BR entry door which is 8 feet tall. Projector is also centered on the screen in it current location. The screen is an SI Solo Pro, mounted to the front wall on wood corbels that allow the screen to extend out enough to clear my 65" Samsung curved TV (I know, curved??? This is a 4K KS9800 which was only available as a curved screen when I bought it) mounted to front wall with a full motion wall mount which closes to about 5 inches away from wall. The Solo Pro clears the retracted TV by about an inch when it is dropped down, with bottom of screen stopping about 2 inches below bottom edge of TV. Screen is 16x9 110" dia, 96"w x 54" high. Projector lens is 17ft 3" to screen surface.

I am assuming that if I invert the projector on the shelf it might fix the problem, but this would not be a suitable option due to the projector being unstable and non adjustable in this configuration. If inverting the projector is a fix, I can use a ceiling mount and nix the shelf mount idea.

Thanks in advance for any insight on this.
You did not give the one measurement needed to confirm everything, but based on what you have given, I can determine inverting on the shelf will work. If the shelf is 5" above top of the screen and not top of the image, then you have exceeded the amount of lens shift available. I am assuming the screen frame is 2" or more? The JVC in your case has 16.2" of vertical lens shift to work with. The measurement that is critical to determine how high above the image the projector can be mounted is the vertical distance from the top of the image to the center of the lens. A measurement from top of the screen frame tells us nothing, unless we know how wide your frame is.

So in your case your projector lens center is frame height + 5" + 4.07" above the top of the image. So you have used 9.07 + frame height of the 16.2" available. For a 2.40 movie the black bars are 7" in height. So when lowering the 2.40 image to the bottom of your screen you are 9.07" + 7" + frame height = 16.07" plus frame height. You only had 16.2" available. So you have exceeded the available amount of lens shift by about the height of your frame. If you inverted the projector on the shelf, you would gain back the shelf thickness plus 4.07". That would be enough to get the 2.40 image to the bottom of the screen.
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post #11952 of 12569 Old 07-05-2019, 06:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
You did not give the one measurement needed to confirm everything, but based on what you have given, I can determine inverting on the shelf will work. If the shelf is 5" above top of the screen and not top of the image, then you have exceeded the amount of lens shift available. I am assuming the screen frame is 2" or more? The JVC in your case has 16.2" of vertical lens shift to work with. The measurement that is critical to determine how high above the image the projector can be mounted is the vertical distance from the top of the image to the center of the lens. A measurement from top of the screen frame tells us nothing, unless we know how wide your frame is.

So in your case your projector lens center is frame height + 5" + 4.07" above the top of the image. So you have used 9.07 + frame height of the 16.2" available. For a 2.40 movie the black bars are 7" in height. So when lowering the 2.40 image to the bottom of your screen you are 9.07" + 7" + frame height = 16.07" plus frame height. You only had 16.2" available. So you have exceeded the available amount of lens shift by about the height of your frame. If you inverted the projector on the shelf, you would gain back the shelf thickness plus 4.07". That would be enough to get the 2.40 image to the bottom of the screen.
Mike,

Thanks for your input! I need to work with the info you have supplied and do some precise measurements to get an actual measurement for lens center to top of image. I have the top of the screen image area within a 1/2 inch of the bottom of the Solo Pro case at this point, but was taking rough measurements. Now need to get the actual numbers, then using your data I should be able to confirm expected results if I invert the projector. I will reply back here with my results.

Cheers!

John Dixon
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post #11953 of 12569 Old 07-06-2019, 07:07 AM
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I don't understand how inverting on the shelf changes anything more than the height of the feet, unless you are thinking he means use a ceiling mount underneath the shelf. I assumed he meant flopping it upside down on the shelf, resting on a something soft, presumably. All this would accomplish is make it impossible to level.
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post #11954 of 12569 Old 07-06-2019, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by ScottAvery View Post
I don't understand how inverting on the shelf changes anything more than the height of the feet, unless you are thinking he means use a ceiling mount underneath the shelf. I assumed he meant flopping it upside down on the shelf, resting on a something soft, presumably. All this would accomplish is make it impossible to level.
He was talking about the projector being inverted and mounted to the underside of the shelf. He would pick up 4.07" plus shelf thickness plus around 3", so if he was only off 2", then doing this would easily work. But he would not have any adjustability. A better way to do this would be to just ceiling mount the projector. A projector ceiling mounted, using a good mount like the Chief RPMA is much easier to set up than shelf mounting.
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post #11955 of 12569 Old 07-06-2019, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
He was talking about the projector being inverted and mounted to the underside of the shelf. He would pick up 4.07" plus shelf thickness plus around 3", so if he was only off 2", then doing this would easily work. But he would not have any adjustability. A better way to do this would be to just ceiling mount the projector. A projector ceiling mounted, using a good mount like the Chief RPMA is much easier to set up than shelf mounting.
I don't think so. He said he has to shoot the projector through an existing framed hole, so regardless of mounting mechanism the holes stays in the same place. The dimensions of the framed hole, and the position of the shelf in relation to the hole are missing in the discussion.

There may be a difference in the different orientations. Although the specified lens shift is a fixed % either way around the centreline, it could be that there is a bit more shift available at one end than the other due to tolerance in the mech, so mounting it upside down might be helpful.
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post #11956 of 12569 Old 07-06-2019, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by bobof View Post
I don't think so. He said he has to shoot the projector through an existing framed hole, so regardless of mounting mechanism the holes stays in the same place. The dimensions of the framed hole, and the position of the shelf in relation to the hole are missing in the discussion.

There may be a difference in the different orientations. Although the specified lens shift is a fixed % either way around the centreline, it could be that there is a bit more shift available at one end than the other due to tolerance in the mech, so mounting it upside down might be helpful.
If he is just talking about turning the projector upside down and placing it on the shelf, that does not help him.
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post #11957 of 12569 Old 07-07-2019, 05:23 AM
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If you buy a used projector and you do not have the original receipt from the original buyer you can not prove date of purchase and there would be zero warranty odds are.......Maybe JVC would go off the build date on the unit if you where lucky, but they could stand firm and say we need the original receipt which proves date unit was put in service.
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Have I missed an obvious link to the current firmware for an X990? I do not see it on the JVC site either. Thanks
I know is a bit of bad form to quote yourself. I bought a used X990 from a ~local member when he switched to a Sony Laser. As I wait for him to get me the JVC receipt so I can contact JVC for this issue:


In its failure mode, this happens with NO INPUT. It does not seem to be projector on time related. I had some friends over a couple of weeks ago and the projector was on for 3+ hours without issue. The next night I was watching for an hour and the

If black is the RG&B all shut off, it seems as if the RED is not turning off when it should be. The red on the screen is the RED from the color bars (255,0,0) in 8 bit computer lingo.

The good news is it is less intermittent and more persistent.


I wanted to try reloading the firmware but cannot find it. Can anyone help with the firmware?

Thanks
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post #11958 of 12569 Old 07-07-2019, 06:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dengland View Post
I know is a bit of bad form to quote yourself. I bought a used X990 from a ~local member when he switched to a Sony Laser. As I wait for him to get me the JVC receipt so I can contact JVC for this issue:


In its failure mode, this happens with NO INPUT. It does not seem to be projector on time related. I had some friends over a couple of weeks ago and the projector was on for 3+ hours without issue. The next night I was watching for an hour and the

If black is the RG&B all shut off, it seems as if the RED is not turning off when it should be. The red on the screen is the RED from the color bars (255,0,0) in 8 bit computer lingo.

The good news is it is less intermittent and more persistent.


I wanted to try reloading the firmware but cannot find it. Can anyone help with the firmware?

Thanks
There were no firmware updates for the X990/RS640. You will probably need to send the projector in for repair.
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post #11959 of 12569 Old 07-07-2019, 06:25 AM
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Since my PJ moved a bit, I’ve been tinkering with my focus. I have it dialed in pretty good, but feel it could be just a bit better. I would like to use the menu to adjust, but even with patterns off, it goes black once focus is selected. I could have sworn I’ve read here someone doing this. Anyone know how or a good pattern to use?

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post #11960 of 12569 Old 07-07-2019, 07:08 AM
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I wanted to try reloading the firmware but cannot find it. Can anyone help with the firmware?
One possibility is that the calibration table got corrupted somehow. To check that, wait until you get the red screen, then switch the lamp mode (high/low) and/or the CMD setting to see if that makes any difference, as they use different calibration tables.
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post #11961 of 12569 Old 07-07-2019, 07:13 AM
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There were no firmware updates for the X990/RS640. You will probably need to send the projector in for repair.
Thanks Mike. I appreciate the info.
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post #11962 of 12569 Old 07-07-2019, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
One possibility is that the calibration table got corrupted somehow. To check that, wait until you get the red screen, then switch the lamp mode (high/low) and/or the CMD setting to see if that makes any difference, as they use different calibration tables.
Thanks for the reply.

I definitely switched lamp modes. I switched between different color profiles (Cinema, Natural, etc.) None of those remedied the issue. Again, I feel better that it is less intermittent. I am old enough to remember the TV repairman coming to the house and the TV not "misbehaving" once he got there. :>)

I wish I would have been smart enough to get an original receipt from the seller.

Again, I appreciate the response.
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post #11963 of 12569 Old 07-07-2019, 12:32 PM
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I own a 790 and I don't have calibration equipment but intend to at some point. Until then I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction. The picture on all settings (HDR, Cinema, etc.) is dull in comparison to my other 4K TVs. It's a big difference. I'm sure it's because I'm using the factory settings. Are there any calibration settings that would greatly improve the picture, make the colors more dynamic? I tried searching this thread but I am only coming up with options for modifying the curve. Would really appreciate any advice. Thx!

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post #11964 of 12569 Old 07-07-2019, 12:45 PM
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I own a 790 and I don't have calibration equipment but intend to at some point. Until then I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction. The picture on all settings (HDR, Cinema, etc.) is dull in comparison to my other 4K TVs. It's a big difference. I'm sure it's because I'm using the factory settings. Are there any calibration settings that would greatly improve the picture, make the colors more dynamic? I tried searching this thread but I am only coming up with options for modifying the curve. Would really appreciate any advice. Thx!
There are some suggested settings in the first post.
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post #11965 of 12569 Old 07-08-2019, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jahjd2000 View Post
I own a 790 and I don't have calibration equipment but intend to at some point. Until then I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction. The picture on all settings (HDR, Cinema, etc.) is dull in comparison to my other 4K TVs. It's a big difference. I'm sure it's because I'm using the factory settings. Are there any calibration settings that would greatly improve the picture, make the colors more dynamic? I tried searching this thread but I am only coming up with options for modifying the curve. Would really appreciate any advice. Thx!
Provide a little more information on your install. Size, screen type (gain), and room conditions (white with windows, velvet cave?)

I found SDR to be very watchable out of the box. Perhaps you are getting washed out with ambient light?

HDR out of the box was unwatchable. The gamma curve adjustments fixed everything for me, including colors. Surely not a perfect calibration, but night and day difference.
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post #11966 of 12569 Old 07-08-2019, 05:56 PM
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I’ve been reading here and bluray.com and still a bit confused.

I’ve just set up my jvc x7900 (RS540) which has been boxed for the last 6 months while built my cinema, now when it gets over 100 hrs I’ll get it professionally calibrated. In the meantime, I’ve set the projector to:

Picture Mode = HDR
Color Profile = BT2020
Color Temp = HDR (6500k)
Gamma = HDR (ST.2084)

My questions:
1. Do I still set the Panasonic 820 Optimizer to SDR2020 then move the slider between -4 to -6.
2. Will this be the same after I get it professionally calibrated at the end of the year?
3. Or is the above only applicable if using javs and others custom curves
4. any other tips?

Still have a lot of Reading to catch up on, but pointing me in the right direction would be a help.

Running a 115” 16:9. 1.1 gain screen and room is a dedicated theatre with black ceiling/front wall and dark walls all round. With light off, its pitch black.

My 5.4.2 HT
KEF Q750 Fronts and Q600 Centre
KEF C130 Atmos in-Ceiling & KEF Ci200 In-Wall Surrounds
2 x Speedwoofer 10s
JVC 7900 Projector, Yamaha 2070 Receiver, Panasonic 420 4K Player
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post #11967 of 12569 Old 07-08-2019, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terminate View Post
I’ve been reading here and bluray.com and still a bit confused.

I’ve just set up my jvc x7900 (RS540) which has been boxed for the last 6 months while built my cinema, now when it gets over 100 hrs I’ll get it professionally calibrated. In the meantime, I’ve set the projector to:

Picture Mode = HDR
Color Profile = BT2020
Color Temp = HDR (6500k)
Gamma = HDR (ST.2084)

My questions:
1. Do I still set the Panasonic 820 Optimizer to SDR2020 then move the slider between -4 to -6.
The projector settings listed above are for HDR, so you should set the UB820 to output HDR, not SDR2020.
Alternatively, set the UB820 to output SDR2020, but change the projector gamma to SDR (Gamma 2.4).
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post #11968 of 12569 Old 07-09-2019, 02:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
The projector settings listed above are for HDR, so you should set the UB820 to output HDR, not SDR2020.
Alternatively, set the UB820 to output SDR2020, but change the projector gamma to SDR (Gamma 2.4).

Thanks for that, will give that a try in the next day or so and see what the results are like.



With the current output I have, 'should' look better than changing it to 2.4 Gamma and SDR2020?

My 5.4.2 HT
KEF Q750 Fronts and Q600 Centre
KEF C130 Atmos in-Ceiling & KEF Ci200 In-Wall Surrounds
2 x Speedwoofer 10s
JVC 7900 Projector, Yamaha 2070 Receiver, Panasonic 420 4K Player
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post #11969 of 12569 Old 07-09-2019, 04:27 PM
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Is Echo and Optics on Ebay an authorized JVC dealer? Also, if they're not an authorized JVC dealer, would we still be able to get the warranty through JVC?

HT: LG OLED65B7A, Denon AVR-X7200WA, B&W CM10 S2, CMC2 S2, CM5 S2, HTR-7000 x4 (atmos), SVS SB13 Ultra x2
Desktop: KEF LS50 Wireless, KEF PSW4000 (https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Fridge...s/#view=r2V6Mp)
Portable: Chord Mojo, Shure KSE-1500
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post #11970 of 12569 Old 07-09-2019, 04:31 PM
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Does any of you guys have connection issues with HDMI longer than 35 feet with 4k? I've been switching between the Ruipro fiber optics 33" cable and the 35" blue jeans HDMI, but both have issues where I lose the image (while the sound is running in the background) randomly. The BJC actually does better as I only lose the image 10-15 seconds, whereas the Ruipro I can lose the image for minutes and it may not come back unless I disconnect it and connect it again.

I'm using a Denon AVR-X3400H that connects the cables to the JVC RS540. I've heard there's a 5V adapter to use with the HDMI with the Denon that may help. Any ideas how to fix this?

HT: LG OLED65B7A, Denon AVR-X7200WA, B&W CM10 S2, CMC2 S2, CM5 S2, HTR-7000 x4 (atmos), SVS SB13 Ultra x2
Desktop: KEF LS50 Wireless, KEF PSW4000 (https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Fridge...s/#view=r2V6Mp)
Portable: Chord Mojo, Shure KSE-1500
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