Official JVC - 20LTD - RS640 (x990/x9900) - RS540 (X790/x7900) - Owners Thread - Page 399 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #11941 of 13203 Old 07-04-2019, 02:13 PM
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Kind of a general question at this point, but is their any difference in image position/shift range when my RS 640 is shelf mounted (sitting on its four adjustable feet) 5 inches above top of screen as opposed to having it in the same location above the screen, but sitting inverted as it would be with a ceiling mount? I am trying to use lens shift to bring a 2.40:1 image down so that the bottom of the image is even with the bottom of the screen but I do not have enough shift range to accomplish this. I am hoping to use lens memory to have the image at bottom of screen for 2.40:1 images and another memory for a 16x9 image. Consulting the JVC manual did not clarify this for me.

When I did my initial setup with 16x9 image, it seemed that I had to use a lot more lens shift than I expected to get the bottom of the image to line up with bottom of screen. I have done setups with JVC projectors on a coffee table with lens close to bottom of screen and it seems that I am close to the center of the shift range to fit the image to a screen, and same applies when I have used a ceiling mount with the projector inverted and lens center close to the top of the screen.

I cannot lower the shelf position since the projector is in the master BR on the other side of the theaters back wall projecting through a framed opening in the wall. It is mounted as low as possible to clear the top of the BR entry door which is 8 feet tall. Projector is also centered on the screen in it current location. The screen is an SI Solo Pro, mounted to the front wall on wood corbels that allow the screen to extend out enough to clear my 65" Samsung curved TV (I know, curved??? This is a 4K KS9800 which was only available as a curved screen when I bought it) mounted to front wall with a full motion wall mount which closes to about 5 inches away from wall. The Solo Pro clears the retracted TV by about an inch when it is dropped down, with bottom of screen stopping about 2 inches below bottom edge of TV. Screen is 16x9 110" dia, 96"w x 54" high. Projector lens is 17ft 3" to screen surface.

I am assuming that if I invert the projector on the shelf it might fix the problem, but this would not be a suitable option due to the projector being unstable and non adjustable in this configuration. If inverting the projector is a fix, I can use a ceiling mount and nix the shelf mount idea.

Thanks in advance for any insight on this.

John Dixon
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post #11942 of 13203 Old 07-04-2019, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV-NUT-99 View Post
Kind of a general question at this point, but is their any difference in image position/shift range when my RS 640 is shelf mounted (sitting on its four adjustable feet) 5 inches above top of screen as opposed to having it in the same location above the screen, but sitting inverted as it would be with a ceiling mount?
Other than direction, there is no difference at all in the amount of lens shift between the two options (when measured from the center of the lens).

Last edited by Dominic Chan; 07-05-2019 at 07:48 AM.
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post #11943 of 13203 Old 07-05-2019, 07:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV-NUT-99 View Post
Kind of a general question at this point, but is their any difference in image position/shift range when my RS 640 is shelf mounted (sitting on its four adjustable feet) 5 inches above top of screen as opposed to having it in the same location above the screen, but sitting inverted as it would be with a ceiling mount? I am trying to use lens shift to bring a 2.40:1 image down so that the bottom of the image is even with the bottom of the screen but I do not have enough shift range to accomplish this. I am hoping to use lens memory to have the image at bottom of screen for 2.40:1 images and another memory for a 16x9 image. Consulting the JVC manual did not clarify this for me.

When I did my initial setup with 16x9 image, it seemed that I had to use a lot more lens shift than I expected to get the bottom of the image to line up with bottom of screen. I have done setups with JVC projectors on a coffee table with lens close to bottom of screen and it seems that I am close to the center of the shift range to fit the image to a screen, and same applies when I have used a ceiling mount with the projector inverted and lens center close to the top of the screen.

I cannot lower the shelf position since the projector is in the master BR on the other side of the theaters back wall projecting through a framed opening in the wall. It is mounted as low as possible to clear the top of the BR entry door which is 8 feet tall. Projector is also centered on the screen in it current location. The screen is an SI Solo Pro, mounted to the front wall on wood corbels that allow the screen to extend out enough to clear my 65" Samsung curved TV (I know, curved??? This is a 4K KS9800 which was only available as a curved screen when I bought it) mounted to front wall with a full motion wall mount which closes to about 5 inches away from wall. The Solo Pro clears the retracted TV by about an inch when it is dropped down, with bottom of screen stopping about 2 inches below bottom edge of TV. Screen is 16x9 110" dia, 96"w x 54" high. Projector lens is 17ft 3" to screen surface.

I am assuming that if I invert the projector on the shelf it might fix the problem, but this would not be a suitable option due to the projector being unstable and non adjustable in this configuration. If inverting the projector is a fix, I can use a ceiling mount and nix the shelf mount idea.

Thanks in advance for any insight on this.
You did not give the one measurement needed to confirm everything, but based on what you have given, I can determine inverting on the shelf will work. If the shelf is 5" above top of the screen and not top of the image, then you have exceeded the amount of lens shift available. I am assuming the screen frame is 2" or more? The JVC in your case has 16.2" of vertical lens shift to work with. The measurement that is critical to determine how high above the image the projector can be mounted is the vertical distance from the top of the image to the center of the lens. A measurement from top of the screen frame tells us nothing, unless we know how wide your frame is.

So in your case your projector lens center is frame height + 5" + 4.07" above the top of the image. So you have used 9.07 + frame height of the 16.2" available. For a 2.40 movie the black bars are 7" in height. So when lowering the 2.40 image to the bottom of your screen you are 9.07" + 7" + frame height = 16.07" plus frame height. You only had 16.2" available. So you have exceeded the available amount of lens shift by about the height of your frame. If you inverted the projector on the shelf, you would gain back the shelf thickness plus 4.07". That would be enough to get the 2.40 image to the bottom of the screen.
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post #11944 of 13203 Old 07-05-2019, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
You did not give the one measurement needed to confirm everything, but based on what you have given, I can determine inverting on the shelf will work. If the shelf is 5" above top of the screen and not top of the image, then you have exceeded the amount of lens shift available. I am assuming the screen frame is 2" or more? The JVC in your case has 16.2" of vertical lens shift to work with. The measurement that is critical to determine how high above the image the projector can be mounted is the vertical distance from the top of the image to the center of the lens. A measurement from top of the screen frame tells us nothing, unless we know how wide your frame is.

So in your case your projector lens center is frame height + 5" + 4.07" above the top of the image. So you have used 9.07 + frame height of the 16.2" available. For a 2.40 movie the black bars are 7" in height. So when lowering the 2.40 image to the bottom of your screen you are 9.07" + 7" + frame height = 16.07" plus frame height. You only had 16.2" available. So you have exceeded the available amount of lens shift by about the height of your frame. If you inverted the projector on the shelf, you would gain back the shelf thickness plus 4.07". That would be enough to get the 2.40 image to the bottom of the screen.
Mike,

Thanks for your input! I need to work with the info you have supplied and do some precise measurements to get an actual measurement for lens center to top of image. I have the top of the screen image area within a 1/2 inch of the bottom of the Solo Pro case at this point, but was taking rough measurements. Now need to get the actual numbers, then using your data I should be able to confirm expected results if I invert the projector. I will reply back here with my results.

Cheers!

John Dixon
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post #11945 of 13203 Old 07-06-2019, 08:07 AM
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I don't understand how inverting on the shelf changes anything more than the height of the feet, unless you are thinking he means use a ceiling mount underneath the shelf. I assumed he meant flopping it upside down on the shelf, resting on a something soft, presumably. All this would accomplish is make it impossible to level.
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post #11946 of 13203 Old 07-06-2019, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by ScottAvery View Post
I don't understand how inverting on the shelf changes anything more than the height of the feet, unless you are thinking he means use a ceiling mount underneath the shelf. I assumed he meant flopping it upside down on the shelf, resting on a something soft, presumably. All this would accomplish is make it impossible to level.
He was talking about the projector being inverted and mounted to the underside of the shelf. He would pick up 4.07" plus shelf thickness plus around 3", so if he was only off 2", then doing this would easily work. But he would not have any adjustability. A better way to do this would be to just ceiling mount the projector. A projector ceiling mounted, using a good mount like the Chief RPMA is much easier to set up than shelf mounting.
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post #11947 of 13203 Old 07-06-2019, 06:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
He was talking about the projector being inverted and mounted to the underside of the shelf. He would pick up 4.07" plus shelf thickness plus around 3", so if he was only off 2", then doing this would easily work. But he would not have any adjustability. A better way to do this would be to just ceiling mount the projector. A projector ceiling mounted, using a good mount like the Chief RPMA is much easier to set up than shelf mounting.
I don't think so. He said he has to shoot the projector through an existing framed hole, so regardless of mounting mechanism the holes stays in the same place. The dimensions of the framed hole, and the position of the shelf in relation to the hole are missing in the discussion.

There may be a difference in the different orientations. Although the specified lens shift is a fixed % either way around the centreline, it could be that there is a bit more shift available at one end than the other due to tolerance in the mech, so mounting it upside down might be helpful.
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post #11948 of 13203 Old 07-06-2019, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by bobof View Post
I don't think so. He said he has to shoot the projector through an existing framed hole, so regardless of mounting mechanism the holes stays in the same place. The dimensions of the framed hole, and the position of the shelf in relation to the hole are missing in the discussion.

There may be a difference in the different orientations. Although the specified lens shift is a fixed % either way around the centreline, it could be that there is a bit more shift available at one end than the other due to tolerance in the mech, so mounting it upside down might be helpful.
If he is just talking about turning the projector upside down and placing it on the shelf, that does not help him.
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post #11949 of 13203 Old 07-07-2019, 06:23 AM
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If you buy a used projector and you do not have the original receipt from the original buyer you can not prove date of purchase and there would be zero warranty odds are.......Maybe JVC would go off the build date on the unit if you where lucky, but they could stand firm and say we need the original receipt which proves date unit was put in service.
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Have I missed an obvious link to the current firmware for an X990? I do not see it on the JVC site either. Thanks
I know is a bit of bad form to quote yourself. I bought a used X990 from a ~local member when he switched to a Sony Laser. As I wait for him to get me the JVC receipt so I can contact JVC for this issue:


In its failure mode, this happens with NO INPUT. It does not seem to be projector on time related. I had some friends over a couple of weeks ago and the projector was on for 3+ hours without issue. The next night I was watching for an hour and the

If black is the RG&B all shut off, it seems as if the RED is not turning off when it should be. The red on the screen is the RED from the color bars (255,0,0) in 8 bit computer lingo.

The good news is it is less intermittent and more persistent.


I wanted to try reloading the firmware but cannot find it. Can anyone help with the firmware?

Thanks
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post #11950 of 13203 Old 07-07-2019, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dengland View Post
I know is a bit of bad form to quote yourself. I bought a used X990 from a ~local member when he switched to a Sony Laser. As I wait for him to get me the JVC receipt so I can contact JVC for this issue:


In its failure mode, this happens with NO INPUT. It does not seem to be projector on time related. I had some friends over a couple of weeks ago and the projector was on for 3+ hours without issue. The next night I was watching for an hour and the

If black is the RG&B all shut off, it seems as if the RED is not turning off when it should be. The red on the screen is the RED from the color bars (255,0,0) in 8 bit computer lingo.

The good news is it is less intermittent and more persistent.


I wanted to try reloading the firmware but cannot find it. Can anyone help with the firmware?

Thanks
There were no firmware updates for the X990/RS640. You will probably need to send the projector in for repair.
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post #11951 of 13203 Old 07-07-2019, 07:25 AM
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Since my PJ moved a bit, I’ve been tinkering with my focus. I have it dialed in pretty good, but feel it could be just a bit better. I would like to use the menu to adjust, but even with patterns off, it goes black once focus is selected. I could have sworn I’ve read here someone doing this. Anyone know how or a good pattern to use?

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post #11952 of 13203 Old 07-07-2019, 08:08 AM
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I wanted to try reloading the firmware but cannot find it. Can anyone help with the firmware?
One possibility is that the calibration table got corrupted somehow. To check that, wait until you get the red screen, then switch the lamp mode (high/low) and/or the CMD setting to see if that makes any difference, as they use different calibration tables.
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post #11953 of 13203 Old 07-07-2019, 08:13 AM
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There were no firmware updates for the X990/RS640. You will probably need to send the projector in for repair.
Thanks Mike. I appreciate the info.
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post #11954 of 13203 Old 07-07-2019, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
One possibility is that the calibration table got corrupted somehow. To check that, wait until you get the red screen, then switch the lamp mode (high/low) and/or the CMD setting to see if that makes any difference, as they use different calibration tables.
Thanks for the reply.

I definitely switched lamp modes. I switched between different color profiles (Cinema, Natural, etc.) None of those remedied the issue. Again, I feel better that it is less intermittent. I am old enough to remember the TV repairman coming to the house and the TV not "misbehaving" once he got there. :>)

I wish I would have been smart enough to get an original receipt from the seller.

Again, I appreciate the response.
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post #11955 of 13203 Old 07-07-2019, 01:32 PM
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I own a 790 and I don't have calibration equipment but intend to at some point. Until then I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction. The picture on all settings (HDR, Cinema, etc.) is dull in comparison to my other 4K TVs. It's a big difference. I'm sure it's because I'm using the factory settings. Are there any calibration settings that would greatly improve the picture, make the colors more dynamic? I tried searching this thread but I am only coming up with options for modifying the curve. Would really appreciate any advice. Thx!

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post #11956 of 13203 Old 07-07-2019, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jahjd2000 View Post
I own a 790 and I don't have calibration equipment but intend to at some point. Until then I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction. The picture on all settings (HDR, Cinema, etc.) is dull in comparison to my other 4K TVs. It's a big difference. I'm sure it's because I'm using the factory settings. Are there any calibration settings that would greatly improve the picture, make the colors more dynamic? I tried searching this thread but I am only coming up with options for modifying the curve. Would really appreciate any advice. Thx!
There are some suggested settings in the first post.
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post #11957 of 13203 Old 07-08-2019, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jahjd2000 View Post
I own a 790 and I don't have calibration equipment but intend to at some point. Until then I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction. The picture on all settings (HDR, Cinema, etc.) is dull in comparison to my other 4K TVs. It's a big difference. I'm sure it's because I'm using the factory settings. Are there any calibration settings that would greatly improve the picture, make the colors more dynamic? I tried searching this thread but I am only coming up with options for modifying the curve. Would really appreciate any advice. Thx!
Provide a little more information on your install. Size, screen type (gain), and room conditions (white with windows, velvet cave?)

I found SDR to be very watchable out of the box. Perhaps you are getting washed out with ambient light?

HDR out of the box was unwatchable. The gamma curve adjustments fixed everything for me, including colors. Surely not a perfect calibration, but night and day difference.
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post #11958 of 13203 Old 07-08-2019, 06:56 PM
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I’ve been reading here and bluray.com and still a bit confused.

I’ve just set up my jvc x7900 (RS540) which has been boxed for the last 6 months while built my cinema, now when it gets over 100 hrs I’ll get it professionally calibrated. In the meantime, I’ve set the projector to:

Picture Mode = HDR
Color Profile = BT2020
Color Temp = HDR (6500k)
Gamma = HDR (ST.2084)

My questions:
1. Do I still set the Panasonic 820 Optimizer to SDR2020 then move the slider between -4 to -6.
2. Will this be the same after I get it professionally calibrated at the end of the year?
3. Or is the above only applicable if using javs and others custom curves
4. any other tips?

Still have a lot of Reading to catch up on, but pointing me in the right direction would be a help.

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post #11959 of 13203 Old 07-08-2019, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terminate View Post
I’ve been reading here and bluray.com and still a bit confused.

I’ve just set up my jvc x7900 (RS540) which has been boxed for the last 6 months while built my cinema, now when it gets over 100 hrs I’ll get it professionally calibrated. In the meantime, I’ve set the projector to:

Picture Mode = HDR
Color Profile = BT2020
Color Temp = HDR (6500k)
Gamma = HDR (ST.2084)

My questions:
1. Do I still set the Panasonic 820 Optimizer to SDR2020 then move the slider between -4 to -6.
The projector settings listed above are for HDR, so you should set the UB820 to output HDR, not SDR2020.
Alternatively, set the UB820 to output SDR2020, but change the projector gamma to SDR (Gamma 2.4).
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post #11960 of 13203 Old 07-09-2019, 03:00 AM
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The projector settings listed above are for HDR, so you should set the UB820 to output HDR, not SDR2020.
Alternatively, set the UB820 to output SDR2020, but change the projector gamma to SDR (Gamma 2.4).

Thanks for that, will give that a try in the next day or so and see what the results are like.



With the current output I have, 'should' look better than changing it to 2.4 Gamma and SDR2020?

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post #11961 of 13203 Old 07-09-2019, 05:27 PM
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Is Echo and Optics on Ebay an authorized JVC dealer? Also, if they're not an authorized JVC dealer, would we still be able to get the warranty through JVC?

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post #11962 of 13203 Old 07-09-2019, 05:31 PM
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Does any of you guys have connection issues with HDMI longer than 35 feet with 4k? I've been switching between the Ruipro fiber optics 33" cable and the 35" blue jeans HDMI, but both have issues where I lose the image (while the sound is running in the background) randomly. The BJC actually does better as I only lose the image 10-15 seconds, whereas the Ruipro I can lose the image for minutes and it may not come back unless I disconnect it and connect it again.

I'm using a Denon AVR-X3400H that connects the cables to the JVC RS540. I've heard there's a 5V adapter to use with the HDMI with the Denon that may help. Any ideas how to fix this?

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post #11963 of 13203 Old 07-09-2019, 09:08 PM
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Once last question to get me by, currently I am using the settings I described below

Picture Mode = HDR
Color Profile = BT2020
Color Temp = HDR (6500k)
Gamma = HDR (ST.2084)

Is that the best colour profile or should I be using HDR colour profile? Wish the whole 4k thing was just plug and play like BD and DVD.

Thanks again (as I’ll start reading from post 1 now)

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JVC 7900 Projector, Yamaha 2070 Receiver, Panasonic 420 4K Player
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post #11964 of 13203 Old 07-09-2019, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Terminate View Post
Once last question to get me by, currently I am using the settings I described below

Picture Mode = HDR
Color Profile = BT2020
Color Temp = HDR (6500k)
Gamma = HDR (ST.2084)

Is that the best colour profile or should I be using HDR colour profile?
The BT2020 profile gives you wider gamut but less brightness, compared with the HDR profile. It’s personal preference which one you want to use.
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post #11965 of 13203 Old 07-10-2019, 02:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
The BT2020 profile gives you wider gamut but less brightness, compared with the HDR profile. It’s personal preference which one you want to use.
It is worth mentioning that the difference in calibrated brightness can be small to insignificant - it is the latter my unit. This is because the filter mostly removes yellow light which is in excess in the lamp spectrum, and you'd have to remove it via calibration anyway. I get a useful bump in contrast too because it means not having to use such a large amount of the digital controls to cut the green to remove yellow.

If you get a contrast bump it may mean you can open your iris one notch more to recover the light loss and not take much contrast hit at all, and yet have the wider gamut available.

Your mileage may vary depending on exactly what your lamp spectrum and filter characteristics are, but I'd certainly always give it a go. In my own opinion, on these units I think the only folk for whom it is really a question is those who have to run full open already (because these units aren't quite bright enough for a massive or low gain screen).
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post #11966 of 13203 Old 07-10-2019, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by bobof View Post
Your mileage may vary depending on exactly what your lamp spectrum and filter characteristics are, but I'd certainly always give it a go.
On my X750, without filter I get 167 nits (BT2020) or 160 nits (REC709NF), with filter I get 146 nits (BT2020F, REC709F). Measured with i1D3.
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Last edited by Dominic Chan; 07-10-2019 at 07:53 AM.
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post #11967 of 13203 Old 07-10-2019, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Solarium View Post
Is Echo and Optics on Ebay an authorized JVC dealer? Also, if they're not an authorized JVC dealer, would we still be able to get the warranty through JVC?
No, they are not an authorized dealer. Probably not.
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post #11968 of 13203 Old 07-10-2019, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Solarium View Post
Is Echo and Optics on Ebay an authorized JVC dealer? Also, if they're not an authorized JVC dealer, would we still be able to get the warranty through JVC?
Its easy to spot an unauthorized dealer in many cases. Usually they have there best price displayed when JVC requires a dealer to advertise at retail pricing. Second, they have a check out online for JVC products which is another no-no, JVC products have to be bought over the phone or in person......
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post #11969 of 13203 Old 07-10-2019, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
On my X750, without filter I get 167 nits (BT2020) or 160 nits (REC709NF), with filter I get 146 nits (BT2020F, REC709F). Measured with i1D3.
Admittedly I'm not using the profiles and am using filter on / off with profile off, but I recall that I measure something like a 3% drop once the WP is adjusted to D65.

What is a bit odd is the difference you have between BT2020 and REC709NF. They should both be targeting a WP of D65 so >something< is going on there somewhere for you to have lost 7 nits when the optical setup is (I assume) the same.
I am quite suspicious as to what happens under the hood with the various profiles and how they are matched up to the autocal results.
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post #11970 of 13203 Old 07-11-2019, 02:45 PM
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Do people run their lamps on high for HDR?

I see a couple of recommended settings in thread where lamp is on low, just wondering what everyone is using.
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