Official JVC - 20LTD - RS640 (x990/x9900) - RS540 (X790/x7900) - Owners Thread - Page 400 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #11971 of 11990 Old 07-09-2019, 08:08 PM
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Once last question to get me by, currently I am using the settings I described below

Picture Mode = HDR
Color Profile = BT2020
Color Temp = HDR (6500k)
Gamma = HDR (ST.2084)

Is that the best colour profile or should I be using HDR colour profile? Wish the whole 4k thing was just plug and play like BD and DVD.

Thanks again (as I’ll start reading from post 1 now)

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post #11972 of 11990 Old 07-09-2019, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Terminate View Post
Once last question to get me by, currently I am using the settings I described below

Picture Mode = HDR
Color Profile = BT2020
Color Temp = HDR (6500k)
Gamma = HDR (ST.2084)

Is that the best colour profile or should I be using HDR colour profile?
The BT2020 profile gives you wider gamut but less brightness, compared with the HDR profile. It’s personal preference which one you want to use.
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post #11973 of 11990 Old 07-10-2019, 01:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
The BT2020 profile gives you wider gamut but less brightness, compared with the HDR profile. It’s personal preference which one you want to use.
It is worth mentioning that the difference in calibrated brightness can be small to insignificant - it is the latter my unit. This is because the filter mostly removes yellow light which is in excess in the lamp spectrum, and you'd have to remove it via calibration anyway. I get a useful bump in contrast too because it means not having to use such a large amount of the digital controls to cut the green to remove yellow.

If you get a contrast bump it may mean you can open your iris one notch more to recover the light loss and not take much contrast hit at all, and yet have the wider gamut available.

Your mileage may vary depending on exactly what your lamp spectrum and filter characteristics are, but I'd certainly always give it a go. In my own opinion, on these units I think the only folk for whom it is really a question is those who have to run full open already (because these units aren't quite bright enough for a massive or low gain screen).
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post #11974 of 11990 Old 07-10-2019, 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by bobof View Post
Your mileage may vary depending on exactly what your lamp spectrum and filter characteristics are, but I'd certainly always give it a go.
On my X750, without filter I get 167 nits (BT2020) or 160 nits (REC709NF), with filter I get 146 nits (BT2020F, REC709F). Measured with i1D3.
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post #11975 of 11990 Old 07-10-2019, 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Solarium View Post
Is Echo and Optics on Ebay an authorized JVC dealer? Also, if they're not an authorized JVC dealer, would we still be able to get the warranty through JVC?
No, they are not an authorized dealer. Probably not.
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post #11976 of 11990 Old 07-10-2019, 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Solarium View Post
Is Echo and Optics on Ebay an authorized JVC dealer? Also, if they're not an authorized JVC dealer, would we still be able to get the warranty through JVC?
Its easy to spot an unauthorized dealer in many cases. Usually they have there best price displayed when JVC requires a dealer to advertise at retail pricing. Second, they have a check out online for JVC products which is another no-no, JVC products have to be bought over the phone or in person......
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post #11977 of 11990 Old 07-10-2019, 07:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
On my X750, without filter I get 167 nits (BT2020) or 160 nits (REC709NF), with filter I get 146 nits (BT2020F, REC709F). Measured with i1D3.
Admittedly I'm not using the profiles and am using filter on / off with profile off, but I recall that I measure something like a 3% drop once the WP is adjusted to D65.

What is a bit odd is the difference you have between BT2020 and REC709NF. They should both be targeting a WP of D65 so >something< is going on there somewhere for you to have lost 7 nits when the optical setup is (I assume) the same.
I am quite suspicious as to what happens under the hood with the various profiles and how they are matched up to the autocal results.
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post #11978 of 11990 Old 07-11-2019, 01:45 PM
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Do people run their lamps on high for HDR?

I see a couple of recommended settings in thread where lamp is on low, just wondering what everyone is using.
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post #11979 of 11990 Old 07-11-2019, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
No, they are not an authorized dealer. Probably not.
If you were to ask a lawyer who knows how warranties work in the US, you would find out that under law JVC has to honor the warranty of any new projector that is sold in the US, bought from an authorized/unauthorized dealer or distributor, if you are the original buyer.

That said…. I bought my RS540 through Craig at AVS because if I have any problems within the three year warranty, I know I’ll be taken care of with the least amount of pain. Peace of mind counts more to me when making a larger purchase.

Plus, I think AVS *might* get the “better pick of the liter“ for their inventory.
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post #11980 of 11990 Old 07-11-2019, 05:15 PM
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Plus, an authorized dealer will be a much better liaison with JVC for warranty work than trying to work directly.


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post #11981 of 11990 Old 07-11-2019, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by thrillcat View Post
Plus, an authorized dealer will be a much better liaison with JVC for warranty work than trying to work directly.


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Hey Thrillcat, I’m just north of Cedar Rapids…can you believe that.. looks like were two peas in a pod. Love your emoji! It’s so surreal. Are you thinking of upgrading to native 4K anytime soon? Maybe next generation?
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post #11982 of 11990 Old 07-11-2019, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by catav View Post
Hey Thrillcat, I’m just north of Cedar Rapids…can you believe that.. looks like were two peas in a pod. Love your emoji! It’s so surreal. Are you thinking of upgrading to native 4K anytime soon? Maybe next generation?

I just got my 790 in December and have no plans to upgrade. I got it more for hdr than pixels anyway.


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post #11983 of 11990 Old 07-11-2019, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by thrillcat View Post
I just got my 790 in December and have no plans to upgrade. I got it more for hdr than pixels anyway.


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I got my RS540 in Feb 2019, but all along was thinking of going to native 4K. I went with the RS 540/x790 mainly b/c of price point and JVC contrast. I have not seen one of the new native 4K pj, yet. Hope I can wait at least 5 years to pull the trigger again. BTW, I love my new projector, I'm good to go...
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post #11984 of 11990 Old 07-11-2019, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by catav View Post
I got my RS540 in Feb 2019, but all along was thinking of going to native 4K. I went with the RS 540/x790 mainly b/c of price point and JVC contrast. I have not seen one of the new native 4K pj, yet. Hope I can wait at least 5 years to pull the trigger again. BTW, I love my new projector, I'm good to go...


A friend up the street has one of the new native JVCs. We watched Ant Man vs Wasp and I wasn’t blown away by the improvement. Then we put on Mortal Engines and it was obvious, but not enough for me to envy it.


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post #11985 of 11990 Old 07-12-2019, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by ScottAvery View Post
Provide a little more information on your install. Size, screen type (gain), and room conditions (white with windows, velvet cave?)

I found SDR to be very watchable out of the box. Perhaps you are getting washed out with ambient light?

HDR out of the box was unwatchable. The gamma curve adjustments fixed everything for me, including colors. Surely not a perfect calibration, but night and day difference.
Thanks, Scott. I have a 110" Stewart Cima 1.1 gain screen. My "cinema" isn't ideal. It's in my main living room with gray walls and windows -- we love the immersive experience. That said, it gets pretty dark at night. I'm not sure if something changed or the colors always looked this way, but I was watching a movie outside on a 4K outdoor TV without HDR and the colors were way more vibrant than my projector. I played the same movie on my projector and it looked dull in comparison, like the colors were washed out. I watch most movies on the HDR setting and I increased the brightness a tad.

It sounds like the curves made a big difference for you. I may need to take the plunge.

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post #11986 of 11990 Old 07-12-2019, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by rinse82 View Post
Do people run their lamps on high for HDR?



I see a couple of recommended settings in thread where lamp is on low, just wondering what everyone is using.


Lamp on high and iris open for me.


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post #11987 of 11990 Old 07-13-2019, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by AV-NUT-99 View Post
Kind of a general question at this point, but is their any difference in image position/shift range when my RS 640 is shelf mounted (sitting on its four adjustable feet) 5 inches above top of screen as opposed to having it in the same location above the screen, but sitting inverted as it would be with a ceiling mount? I am trying to use lens shift to bring a 2.40:1 image down so that the bottom of the image is even with the bottom of the screen but I do not have enough shift range to accomplish this. I am hoping to use lens memory to have the image at bottom of screen for 2.40:1 images and another memory for a 16x9 image. Consulting the JVC manual did not clarify this for me.

When I did my initial setup with 16x9 image, it seemed that I had to use a lot more lens shift than I expected to get the bottom of the image to line up with bottom of screen. I have done setups with JVC projectors on a coffee table with lens close to bottom of screen and it seems that I am close to the center of the shift range to fit the image to a screen, and same applies when I have used a ceiling mount with the projector inverted and lens center close to the top of the screen.

I cannot lower the shelf position since the projector is in the master BR on the other side of the theaters back wall projecting through a framed opening in the wall. It is mounted as low as possible to clear the top of the BR entry door which is 8 feet tall. Projector is also centered on the screen in it current location. The screen is an SI Solo Pro, mounted to the front wall on wood corbels that allow the screen to extend out enough to clear my 65" Samsung curved TV (I know, curved??? This is a 4K KS9800 which was only available as a curved screen when I bought it) mounted to front wall with a full motion wall mount which closes to about 5 inches away from wall. The Solo Pro clears the retracted TV by about an inch when it is dropped down, with bottom of screen stopping about 2 inches below bottom edge of TV. Screen is 16x9 110" dia, 96"w x 54" high. Projector lens is 17ft 3" to screen surface.

I am assuming that if I invert the projector on the shelf it might fix the problem, but this would not be a suitable option due to the projector being unstable and non adjustable in this configuration. If inverting the projector is a fix, I can use a ceiling mount and nix the shelf mount idea.

Thanks in advance for any insight on this.

Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
You did not give the one measurement needed to confirm everything, but based on what you have given, I can determine inverting on the shelf will work. If the shelf is 5" above top of the screen and not top of the image, then you have exceeded the amount of lens shift available. I am assuming the screen frame is 2" or more? The JVC in your case has 16.2" of vertical lens shift to work with. The measurement that is critical to determine how high above the image the projector can be mounted is the vertical distance from the top of the image to the center of the lens. A measurement from top of the screen frame tells us nothing, unless we know how wide your frame is.

So in your case your projector lens center is frame height + 5" + 4.07" above the top of the image. So you have used 9.07 + frame height of the 16.2" available. For a 2.40 movie the black bars are 7" in height. So when lowering the 2.40 image to the bottom of your screen you are 9.07" + 7" + frame height = 16.07" plus frame height. You only had 16.2" available. So you have exceeded the available amount of lens shift by about the height of your frame. If you inverted the projector on the shelf, you would gain back the shelf thickness plus 4.07". That would be enough to get the 2.40 image to the bottom of the screen.

Originally Posted by bobof View Post
I don't think so. He said he has to shoot the projector through an existing framed hole, so regardless of mounting mechanism the holes stays in the same place. The dimensions of the framed hole, and the position of the shelf in relation to the hole are missing in the discussion.

There may be a difference in the different orientations. Although the specified lens shift is a fixed % either way around the centreline, it could be that there is a bit more shift available at one end than the other due to tolerance in the mech, so mounting it upside down might be helpful.
If he is just talking about turning the projector upside down and placing it on the shelf, that does not help him.

AV-NUT-99

I want to thank everyone for their input. I completed some precise measurements and as currently mounted, my lens center is 2.953 (3) inches above the top of my projected image. While sitting on the shelf, with the feet in place, the lens center is 4 inches above the shelf. If i flipped the projector upside down, with its top sitting on the shelf, the lens center to shelf distance is 2 7/8 inches. So it would seem that I would benefit by flipping it over (either on the shelf or by using a ceiling mount adjusted to be at same vertical position relative to my framed wall opening but with shelf removed). However, by doing so I introduce another issue. By gaining a bit by lowering the lens an inch my projected image would be cut off as I shift the lens down by hitting the bottom of my wall opening frame (lens is sitting about 10 inches back from the front of the framed wall opening since I am trying to leave space for the exhausted air form the projector.)

So it looks like I would be better off just leaving everything as it is. The 16x9 image fits on the screen as is, and the 2.40:1 image sits about an inch above the screen bottom when at full downward shift position. When testing with the projector at the back wall, but within the room and with the lens positioned close to the vertical center of the screen, I really liked having the 2.40:1 image sitting at the very bottom of the screen. It was easy to ignore the unused screen space at the top of the image, and that is what I was trying to accomplish. Since I have an electric drop down screen, I can easily bump the screen up a bit if I find that it bothers me that much. FYI, my finished frame opening is 12" wide by 7" high and 6" deep.

thanks again,

John Dixon
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post #11988 of 11990 Old 07-13-2019, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by AV-NUT-99 View Post
AV-NUT-99

I want to thank everyone for their input. I completed some precise measurements and as currently mounted, my lens center is 2.953 (3) inches above the top of my projected image. While sitting on the shelf, with the feet in place, the lens center is 4 inches above the shelf. If i flipped the projector upside down, with its top sitting on the shelf, the lens center to shelf distance is 2 7/8 inches. So it would seem that I would benefit by flipping it over (either on the shelf or by using a ceiling mount adjusted to be at same vertical position relative to my framed wall opening but with shelf removed). However, by doing so I introduce another issue. By gaining a bit by lowering the lens an inch my projected image would be cut off as I shift the lens down by hitting the bottom of my wall opening frame (lens is sitting about 10 inches back from the front of the framed wall opening since I am trying to leave space for the exhausted air form the projector.)

So it looks like I would be better off just leaving everything as it is. The 16x9 image fits on the screen as is, and the 2.40:1 image sits about an inch above the screen bottom when at full downward shift position. When testing with the projector at the back wall, but within the room and with the lens positioned close to the vertical center of the screen, I really liked having the 2.40:1 image sitting at the very bottom of the screen. It was easy to ignore the unused screen space at the top of the image, and that is what I was trying to accomplish. Since I have an electric drop down screen, I can easily bump the screen up a bit if I find that it bothers me that much. FYI, my finished frame opening is 12" wide by 7" high and 6" deep.

thanks again,
1) Twist the feet the same amount on each to lower it. An inch seems like the feet must have all been extended while leveling.

2) Setting it back 10 inches cost you that % of throw range in line of sight. Its the same effect as when trying to create a second row riser - the farther back you make the row, the higher the riser must be to see over the row in front, or the wall opening, for line of sight to bottom of screen. Likewise, you could just reset the drop point on your screen to raise it up for both 16x9 and 21x9.
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post #11989 of 11990 Old Yesterday, 05:51 AM
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1) Twist the feet the same amount on each to lower it. An inch seems like the feet must have all been extended while leveling..
4 inches is the distance between lens centre and table top with the feet fully retracted :
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post #11990 of 11990 Old Yesterday, 07:30 AM
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4 inches is the distance between lens centre and table top with the feet fully retracted :
I guess it makes sense now that I see the picture, thanks.
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