Official JVC - 20LTD - RS640 (x990/x9900) - RS540 (X790/x7900) - Owners Thread - Page 404 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #12091 of 13404 Old 08-25-2019, 03:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo_2009 View Post
Can anyone with a JVC X7900 and using madVR suggest the best settings for REC709 and BT2020?
I'm using the JVC in a full velvet tent, with a 2:35:1 Dalite HD 0.9 screen.

My quick settings so far have been,
for REC 709:
- Low Latency ON, all rest OFF
- eshift ON
- Enhance: 2, all others 0
- Clear Black: Low
- Graphic mode: 4K
- THX
- Clear Black: Low
- Low Lamp

for REC BT2020:
- Low Latency ON, all rest OFF
- eshift ON
- Enhance: 2, all others 0
- Clear Black: Low
- Graphic mode: 4K
- User 1
- Gamma: Custom 1, Correction Value: 2.2
- Color Profile: BT2020
- Low Lamp

Thank you!
Give these a try. They are from the 1st post in this thread.

x990 ST2084 Settings

1 - My Favorite
Gamma - ST.2084
Picture Tone = 11
Dark Level = 3
Bright Level = -7

2 - Very close to ChadB #2 Bright Curve
Gamma - ST.2084
Picture Tone =7
Dark Level = 3
Bright Level = -7

MPC Settings
4K e-shift = ON
Graphic Mode = 4K
Enhance = 0-3 (movies with heavy grain) 4 (movies little or no apparent grain)
Smoothing = 0
NR = 0
Blur Reduction Settings
Low Latency = OFF
Clear Motion Drive = LOW
Motion Enhance = OFF
Advanced Menu
Clear Black = LOW (try HIGH for nice RC type detail boost in darker parts of the image)
Lamp Power = LOW
Lens Aperture = Manual 0
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JVC DLA-X990 - 128" 2.35 1.3 Gain Screen - Vertex2 - X800M2 - UB820 - ATV4K64 - ROKU Ultra - PS4 - XBone
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post #12092 of 13404 Old 08-25-2019, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bytehoven View Post
Give these a try. They are from the 1st post in this thread.
Welcome back, Byte!
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post #12093 of 13404 Old 08-25-2019, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bytehoven View Post
Give these a try. They are from the 1st post in this thread.
I've saw these settings on the first page, but i thought they were specific to pairing the JVC with a Blu-ray player, and would not be "valid" for using with madVR.
I will try them, and report back
Thank you very much for your kind reply!
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post #12094 of 13404 Old 08-25-2019, 06:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo_2009 View Post
I've saw these settings on the first page, but i thought they were specific to pairing the JVC with a Blu-ray player, and would not be "valid" for using with madVR.
I will try them, and report back
Thank you very much for your kind reply!
HDR2020 vs SDR2020

Both can be well tweaked. With the panny 820, sdr2020 is the way to go, although it is possible to get hdr2020 looking very good.

I don't know enough about madVR and its output options. I'm sure someone else will chime in on madVR.

In any case, both approaches are covered in the 1st post to get ya off to a solid start from which you can fine tune for best results.
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post #12095 of 13404 Old 08-26-2019, 07:59 AM
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Optimum SDR/HDR Settings using RS540 with Kodi DSPlayer/MadVR

I am struggling to get my HDR settings dialed in. It seems I either end up with things looking way too dark or with the color off. My projector currently has about 500 hours on its bulb and is being used with a Studiotek screen with a 1.3 gain. I have read through various posts on this and the Kodi forums about how to dial things in. I finally settled on not trying to have the video output trigger my RS540 to go into HDR mode automatically as there seemed to be some benefits. Truthfully I would have been lost if not for all of the kind people who share their knowledge and experience on these forums. After doing my research here I ended up with MadVR setup as shown in the attached images. I have setup several custom profiles on my RS540 to match what Bytehoven reposted in post # 12099 and also from the "JVC RS640 (x990x9900) & RS540 (X790x7900) Settings Recommendations - 2019-05.xlsx" that giomania posted in post # 11851. The problem I am having is that things simply look to dark. There are certain scenes where dark areas are crushed or at least difficult to see. It should be noted that my projector has not been calibrated. I have been considering picking up the Spyder5 that works with the JVC Auto-Cal software to see if there are any benefits. I am hoping that I have just made a mistake somewhere in my settings due to not fully understanding the characteristics of MadVR's tone mapping and the corresponding settings for color profile, color temp and gamma on the 540. I would greatly appreciate any feedback you can provide.


Thanks in advance
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post #12096 of 13404 Old 08-26-2019, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kalhua View Post
I am struggling to get my HDR settings dialed in. It seems I either end up with things looking way too dark or with the color off. My projector currently has about 500 hours on its bulb and is being used with a Studiotek screen with a 1.3 gain. I have read through various posts on this and the Kodi forums about how to dial things in. I finally settled on not trying to have the video output trigger my RS540 to go into HDR mode automatically as there seemed to be some benefits. Truthfully I would have been lost if not for all of the kind people who share their knowledge and experience on these forums. After doing my research here I ended up with MadVR setup as shown in the attached images. I have setup several custom profiles on my RS540 to match what Bytehoven reposted in post # 12099 and also from the "JVC RS640 (x990x9900) & RS540 (X790x7900) Settings Recommendations - 2019-05.xlsx" that giomania posted in post # 11851. The problem I am having is that things simply look to dark. There are certain scenes where dark areas are crushed or at least difficult to see. It should be noted that my projector has not been calibrated. I have been considering picking up the Spyder5 that works with the JVC Auto-Cal software to see if there are any benefits. I am hoping that I have just made a mistake somewhere in my settings due to not fully understanding the characteristics of MadVR's tone mapping and the corresponding settings for color profile, color temp and gamma on the 540. I would greatly appreciate any feedback you can provide.


Thanks in advance
When using madVR for HDR, you should most likely be using 2.2 gamma on the JVC with none of the gamma adjustments in the JVC. Also try removing the 2.4 gamma option from the Color & Gamma tab in madVR.

If it's still too dim, you probably want to lower the target nits, 150 may be too high.

Also you probably don't want -7 for brightness when using madVR. When you are using madVR you have to remember that for the JVC it's just treating it like SDR. You can find a black level test video in order to set your brightness value correctly.

All 3 of these things will make the image brighter and bring back shadow detail, raising gamma to 2.2, raising brightens back to around 0 or close, and lowering the target nits in madVR.
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post #12097 of 13404 Old 08-26-2019, 11:09 AM
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Thanks for your response, please see my notes below.



Quote:
Originally Posted by SirMaster View Post
When using madVR for HDR, you should most likely be using 2.2 gamma on the JVC with none of the gamma adjustments in the JVC. Also try removing the 2.4 gamma option from the Color & Gamma tab in madVR.


I used a custom gamma profile on the JVC, set it to 2.2 and left it flat with no adjustments to picture tone, dark level or bright level. In addition to that I also unchecked "enable gamma processing" in madVR. I wasn't sure if you just meant to change it to 2.2 as well or disable it.


If it's still too dim, you probably want to lower the target nits, 150 may be too high.


I lowered it to 100 for now. What is the best method to find the nits of my setup? Does an inexpensive light meter work or do I need some sort of colorimeter?


Also you probably don't want -7 for brightness when using madVR. When you are using madVR you have to remember that for the JVC it's just treating it like SDR. You can find a black level test video in order to set your brightness value correctly.


Is there a video you suggest? Also are you referring to the gamma bright level or the overall brightness setting?


All 3 of these things will make the image brighter and bring back shadow detail, raising gamma to 2.2, raising brightens back to around 0 or close, and lowering the target nits in madVR.



Well I finally feel like I am getting somewhere . The adjustments definitely changed the way things look. The dark scenes are easier to see. The light scenes are starting to look a bit washed out and the overall colors have definitely lost their punch. I guess in the end there will need to be comprises. Doing an A to B comparison between a 4k HDR source and a 1080 SDR source they now look pretty similar. Where do you suggest adjustments be made from here, madVR or in the JVC? Also do you have any input for color profile and color temp in the JVC? I also noticed there is another gamma setting in madVR under calibration. Do you have input as to whether or not that is correctly set? Is there a particular movie or other video that is a know good HDR implementation that you might suggest? I want to make sure when I am evaluating settings that I am at least using good reference material.




Thanks!
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post #12098 of 13404 Old 08-27-2019, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kalhua View Post
Thanks for your response, please see my notes below.

Well I finally feel like I am getting somewhere . The adjustments definitely changed the way things look. The dark scenes are easier to see. The light scenes are starting to look a bit washed out and the overall colors have definitely lost their punch. I guess in the end there will need to be comprises. Doing an A to B comparison between a 4k HDR source and a 1080 SDR source they now look pretty similar. Where do you suggest adjustments be made from here, madVR or in the JVC? Also do you have any input for color profile and color temp in the JVC? I also noticed there is another gamma setting in madVR under calibration. Do you have input as to whether or not that is correctly set? Is there a particular movie or other video that is a know good HDR implementation that you might suggest? I want to make sure when I am evaluating settings that I am at least using good reference material.




Thanks!
Hi, sorry I did not reply sooner.

Your bright images should not look washed out at all and your colors should not be losing punch.

The settings I would recommend when playing UHD with madVR tonemapping are:

JVC settings:

BT.2020 color profile
Gamma 2.2
6500K Color temp

Set brightness based on this video:

Lower brightness as low as possible while you can still see bar 17 flashing.

Set contrast based on this video:

Raise contrast as high as you can while you can still see bar 234 flashing.

madVR settings:

Calibration tab:
Choose "This display is already calibrated" radio button

"the display is calibrated to the following primaries / gamut":
BT.2020

"the display is calibrated to the following transfer function / gamma":
pure power curve 2.20

HDR tab

The settings you linked earlier seem OK, but the main number to worry about is the first box, the target nits.

You can measure this with a standard light meter. Or I can approximate it if you tell me your screen size, aspect ratio, screen gain, throw distance, anamorphic lens?, bulb mode. I am going to assume you will run your dynamic iris set to start at wide open (0) which is generally best for HDR content as you can get a brighter image.
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post #12099 of 13404 Old 08-27-2019, 02:32 PM
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Thanks so much for your response, things are looking better now. Are there any scenes from a particular movie that you use to validate settings? I am assuming some are done better than others.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SirMaster View Post
Hi, sorry I did not reply sooner. No worries, I am just thankful for your help!

Lower brightness as low as possible while you can still see bar 17 flashing. Seems as though it was pretty darn close at 0.

Raise contrast as high as you can while you can still see bar 234 flashing. Same thing here I left it at 0.

You can measure this with a standard light meter. Or I can approximate it if you tell me your screen size (110"), aspect ratio (16x9), screen gain (1.3), throw distance (15'), anamorphic lens? (No), bulb mode. Usually low but would be interested to know both. Does the brightness change when I display a movie that is in a different ratio than the screen (black bars top and bottom)?

I am going to assume you will run your dynamic iris set to start at wide open (0) which is generally best for HDR content as you can get a brighter image. I have had it at manual 0. Wasn't sure about when to use the auto modes.

Do you use other settings in madVR or projector when displaying SDR or lower resolutions?


Thanks
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post #12100 of 13404 Old 08-27-2019, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kalhua View Post
Thanks so much for your response, things are looking better now. Are there any scenes from a particular movie that you use to validate settings? I am assuming some are done better than others.


Do you use other settings in madVR or projector when displaying SDR or lower resolutions?


Thanks
If you always leave madVR in BT.2020 calibration mode and also leave the JVC in BT.2020, then you don't have to worry about changing color profiles at all. madVR will ensure that all videos come through in the proper color. If you play SDR from another source other than madVR however, then you will want to change the JVC to rec709 color profile. Still probably keep 2.2 gamma and always 6500K color temp though.

From your info I estimate your NITS at about 115 nits in low bulb and about 160 nits in high bulb.

However, this would be with a new bulb and I forgot to ask about how many hours you have on your bulb, so your nits could be lower depending on how worn out your bulb currently is. The aspect ratio of the movie does not affect the nits since you always have the projector set up zoomed to fit the 16:9 screen.

Even in low bulb you have more than enough brightness. I only get about 75-80 nits on my NX5 in low bulb on my 140" screen, and with madVR HDR tonemapping it still looks excellent IMO.

Using 100 nits in madVR for your low bulb is probably still a pretty nice number to use. I wouldn't set it lower than 100 in your case, and raising it to 115 would only make your image a slight bit dimmer, but as your bulb ages, you will get much closer to 100 nits anyways if you aren't there already. If you do use high bulb then it is probably worth increasing the target nits number to around 150. But with as much brightness as you have on a 110" screen I don't think you need to worry about high bulb mode.


As far as the Auto DI, you can turn it on whenever you want. Most people like Auto 2 the most. It should increase the overall contrast if your image, but it could come at the cost of some artifacts like noticing your image getting brighter and dimmer as the scene changes. If you see this and find it distracting then you might choose to keep the Auto DI off like you have now.

As far as other settings that I use in madVR for SDR and lower resolutions, pretty much just the advanced up-scaling options (called NGU) in Chroma and Image up-scaling madVR sections. NGU is a high quality neural network (artificial intelligence algorithm) image upscaler and at least for a native 4K projector such as my NX5 can give a nice result on lower than 4K resolution content. On your eShift projector the difference from high quality upscaling wont be as drastic, but there is probably still some gain to be had if you are playing lower resolution content.
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post #12101 of 13404 Old 08-27-2019, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catav View Post
I was in the same boat.. tried AQ cinnamon cables from my
HTPC to the AVR and heard and saw a major difference. The sound stage is now much more 3D and easier to listen to long term. I tested chocolate and above AQ cables but found the cinnamon to be the sweet spot for me. Others were too bright for audio and a lot more expensive. The audio overall was helped more than the video, but I have an extremely high resolving audio system (JBL horns and subs, Infinity mix). Highly recommend AQ products, but should test for best match to your system .
Which HDMI cable matters more, the source --> AVR, or the AVR --> projector?

I can get a cheaper AQ 2 meter one (possibly even Vodka), I read some that the ebay chinese knockoffs for $40 are exactly the same as the $300 ones here in US. Since they're made in chinese factories, and some of the cables probably are probably handed off to sell with some sort of under the table deal. I ordered one, will get the "real" one from bestbuy to compare.

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post #12102 of 13404 Old 08-27-2019, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solarium View Post
Which HDMI cable matters more, the source --> AVR, or the AVR --> projector?

I can get a cheaper AQ 2 meter one (possibly even Vodka), I read some that the ebay chinese knockoffs for $40 are exactly the same as the $300 ones here in US. Since they're made in chinese factories, and some of the cables probably are probably handed off to sell with some sort of under the table deal. I ordered one, will get the "real" one from bestbuy to compare.
I only went from HTPC to AVR. I focused on audio for the upgrade. After all its AQ not VQ. I don’t think AVR to PJ alone would be enough of an upgrade to warrant the added cable expense, but I could be wrong. I’m actually an audiophile at heart, so that is where I throw my money after good to go with the video. Couldn’t be happier with the AQ audio upgrade. Different level AQ cables will definitely sound different, so test before buying if you can. More expensive isn't always better. I luckily have a brick and mortar store locally that lets me test (open box AQ cables) over the week-end to choose. That really helps! Good luck.

Last edited by catav; 08-27-2019 at 05:43 PM.
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post #12103 of 13404 Old 08-27-2019, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirMaster View Post

From your info I estimate your NITS at about 115 nits in low bulb and about 160 nits in high bulb.

However, this would be with a new bulb and I forgot to ask about how many hours you have on your bulb, so your nits could be lower depending on how worn out your bulb currently is. The aspect ratio of the movie does not affect the nits since you always have the projector set up zoomed to fit the 16:9 screen. My bulb has around 500 hours on it.
.
I have been doing some more reading and have noticed mention of using 3D Lut with madVR tone mapping. Do you go that route? Was wondering what the benefits are and how difficult it is to get things setup. I have ordered a Spyder5 and am planning to use JVC's autocal software.

Thanks
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post #12104 of 13404 Old 08-27-2019, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kalhua View Post
I have been doing some more reading and have noticed mention of using 3D Lut with madVR tone mapping. Do you go that route? Was wondering what the benefits are and how difficult it is to get things setup. I have ordered a Spyder5 and am planning to use JVC's autocal software.

Thanks
After 500 hours your bulb will not have dropped much in my experience. I would definitely stick with 100 nit madVR setting on low bulb, it should be great to past 1000 hours in your case.

A Spyder5 is a great idea to fix the gamma droop that JVC suffer from. It will fix it right up. I would even recommend trying a color autocal as the Spyder5 in my experience does a decent job.

As far as a 3DLUT, you will need much better meters to attempt that.

I have an i1 Pro 2 spectrometer and a i1 Display Pro 3 colorimeter and I tried to do a 3DLUT. The results ended up having some color clipping artifacts for HDR, so I do not use the 3DLUT. I may try again some time with different settings, but overall, the difference was super small for the changes that the 3DLUT ended up making after my autocal run, so it really was not needed anyways in my case.
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post #12105 of 13404 Old 08-27-2019, 09:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirMaster View Post
After 500 hours your bulb will not have dropped much in my experience. I would definitely stick with 100 nit madVR setting on low bulb, it should be great to past 1000 hours in your case.

A Spyder5 is a great idea to fix the gamma droop that JVC suffer from. It will fix it right up. I would even recommend trying a color autocal as the Spyder5 in my experience does a decent job. Do you happen to know a good resource to review in order to do a proper calibration? My meter should show up in a couple days and I would like to get a better understanding of the steps to take. I have the autocal software installed and communicating with my projector. I have also read the instructions that JVC provides. I just am not clear on the precise workflow and specific goals as there seems to be a variety of options.

As far as a 3DLUT, you will need much better meters to attempt that.

I have an i1 Pro 2 spectrometer and a i1 Display Pro 3 colorimeter and I tried to do a 3DLUT. The results ended up having some color clipping artifacts for HDR, so I do not use the 3DLUT. I may try again some time with different settings, but overall, the difference was super small for the changes that the 3DLUT ended up making after my autocal run, so it really was not needed anyways in my case. Ok, sounds like I better forget about that one. Besides I am not sure that my GPU would be up to the task. What GPU do you have in your rig?

Thanks again for your responses!
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post #12106 of 13404 Old 08-27-2019, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
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Thanks again for your responses!
You don't need anything really as far as a GPU for a 3DLUT. It only adds like 1-2ms of processing time in my experience. I have a RTX 2060 FWIW.

For autocal the manual does pretty much explain it all. Just run the calibration for each user mode that you have set up to use.

You can also read this thread:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...500-rs600.html

It's is for older JVC, but the process and software and info is the same.
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post #12107 of 13404 Old 08-28-2019, 06:41 AM
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This is probably a dumb question but is there a video or images I can reference to set up my various aspect ratios for lens memory? Any tips and/or tricks would be greatly appreciated! This is my first time setting up a projector so I am a complete n00b. Thanks guys!
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post #12108 of 13404 Old 08-28-2019, 01:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catav View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Solarium View Post
Which HDMI cable matters more, the source --> AVR, or the AVR --> projector?

I can get a cheaper AQ 2 meter one (possibly even Vodka), I read some that the ebay chinese knockoffs for $40 are exactly the same as the $300 ones here in US. Since they're made in chinese factories, and some of the cables probably are probably handed off to sell with some sort of under the table deal. I ordered one, will get the "real" one from bestbuy to compare.
I only went from HTPC to AVR. I focused on audio for the upgrade. After all its AQ not VQ. I don’️t think AVR to PJ alone would be enough of an upgrade to warrant the added cable expense, but I could be wrong. I’️m actually an audiophile at heart, so that is where I throw my money after good to go with the video. Couldn’️t be happier with the AQ audio upgrade. Different level AQ cables will definitely sound different, so test before buying if you can. More expensive isn't always better. I luckily have a brick and mortar store locally that lets me test (open box AQ cables) over the week-end to choose. That really helps! Good luck.
There’s a Best Buy that carries these cables, I think I’m gonna test them out there. They have a 2 week refund policy so that’s plenty of time. Thanks 👍
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post #12109 of 13404 Old 08-28-2019, 02:01 PM
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This is probably a dumb question but is there a video or images I can reference to set up my various aspect ratios for lens memory? Any tips and/or tricks would be greatly appreciated! This is my first time setting up a projector so I am a complete n00b. Thanks guys!
If you turn on the lens control patterns they cover at least 16:9 (full screen) and 2.35:1 (with top and bottom black bars).
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post #12110 of 13404 Old 08-30-2019, 12:29 PM
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Does anyone else hear a noise that sounds like a hard drive spinning up, every 10-15 seconds. It might be a fan kicking on and off, but I thought they stayed constant. It's not e-shift as I turned that off. It's faint and I can't hear it with audio on but I just want to see if it is normal. I did see one user mention it on like page 200.

Also, is there any consensus on using Low Latency mode? The manual states using it is better for handling 10 and 12 bit signals. I've seen posts saying it's best to use it and others that seem to indicate it degrades the image.
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post #12111 of 13404 Old 08-30-2019, 02:46 PM
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Does anyone else hear a noise that sounds like a hard drive spinning up, every 10-15 seconds. It might be a fan kicking on and off, but I thought they stayed constant. It's not e-shift as I turned that off. It's faint and I can't hear it with audio on but I just want to see if it is normal. I did see one user mention it on like page 200.

Also, is there any consensus on using Low Latency mode? The manual states using it is better for handling 10 and 12 bit signals. I've seen posts saying it's best to use it and others that seem to indicate it degrades the image.
The noise you hear is the D-ILA device cooling fan. It sources air from the bottom of the unit and uses it to cool the D-ILA chips. It only activates every so often and is a stepper motor I believe.
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post #12112 of 13404 Old 08-30-2019, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post
Does anyone else hear a noise that sounds like a hard drive spinning up, every 10-15 seconds. It might be a fan kicking on and off, but I thought they stayed constant. It's not e-shift as I turned that off. It's faint and I can't hear it with audio on but I just want to see if it is normal. I did see one user mention it on like page 200.

Also, is there any consensus on using Low Latency mode? The manual states using it is better for handling 10 and 12 bit signals. I've seen posts saying it's best to use it and others that seem to indicate it degrades the image.
The noise you hear is the D-ILA device cooling fan. It sources air from the bottom of the unit and uses it to cool the D-ILA chips. It only activates every so often and is a stepper motor I believe.
So should it be audible? I've never heard it on my rs40nor 4910. Did they change the design!
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post #12113 of 13404 Old 08-30-2019, 02:59 PM
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So should it be audible? I've never heard it on my rs40nor 4910. Did they change the design!
Perhaps. I've noticed it more on my X7900 than on previous X3/x35 units.
I've had 2 X7900 units and it has been audible on each.
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post #12114 of 13404 Old 08-30-2019, 03:06 PM
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So should it be audible? I've never heard it on my rs40nor 4910. Did they change the design!
Perhaps. I've noticed it more on my X7900 than on previous X3/x35 units.
I've had 2 X7900 units and it has been audible on each.
It's not the noise that bothers me. You can't hear it with audio playing. It's the concern that it's an indication of.a potentially bad or failing part on a new projector. Usually fans are just on so it's an odd design choice to me in the first place.
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post #12115 of 13404 Old 08-30-2019, 03:31 PM
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It's not the noise that bothers me. You can't hear it with audio playing. It's the concern that it's an indication of.a potentially bad or failing part on a new projector. Usually fans are just on so it's an odd design choice to me in the first place.
There was confirmation over at the UK AVforums site a while ago from GaryB (who used to work for JVC) that this was what the noise was.
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post #12116 of 13404 Old 08-30-2019, 03:46 PM
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It's not the noise that bothers me. You can't hear it with audio playing. It's the concern that it's an indication of.a potentially bad or failing part on a new projector. Usually fans are just on so it's an odd design choice to me in the first place.
There was confirmation over at the UK AVforums site a while ago from GaryB (who used to work for JVC) that this was what the noise was.
Thank you for that information.

Is there a definite answer as to whether low latency is best left on or off? Not for gaming purposes but for what the manual states is better 10 and 12 bit signal handling with it on.
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post #12117 of 13404 Old 08-31-2019, 01:52 AM
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Thank you for that information.

Is there a definite answer as to whether low latency is best left on or off? Not for gaming purposes but for what the manual states is better 10 and 12 bit signal handling with it on.
I always leave LL on as there are some buglets that seem to slip in with it off - eg the MPC frame interpolation appears to sometimes get activated by itself (without being indicated on the UI) if you leave it off. That alone is reason for me not to have LL set to off.
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post #12118 of 13404 Old 08-31-2019, 10:57 AM
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I feel like I should be able to figure this out without asking but it's been a long week...

Do I need to re-calibrate if I change the manual iris from -12 to -9 (for SDR)?

At 1450 hours I could use a bit more brightness and -9 looks good to me. I usually calibrate gamma with autocal+spyder5 and the rest with calman+i1Display Pro but I'd prefer not to set the whole thing up and do the work if it's not necessary.

Equipment and collection:
Spoiler!
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post #12119 of 13404 Old 08-31-2019, 12:09 PM
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I feel like I should be able to figure this out without asking but it's been a long week...

Do I need to re-calibrate if I change the manual iris from -12 to -9 (for SDR)?

At 1450 hours I could use a bit more brightness and -9 looks good to me. I usually calibrate gamma with autocal+spyder5 and the rest with calman+i1Display Pro but I'd prefer not to set the whole thing up and do the work if it's not necessary.
Manual iris -12 and -9 share the same colour calibration so there is no need to recalibrate just because of the iris change.

On the other hand, at 1450 hours there likely will be changes from aging alone. You can’t tell until you measure it.
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post #12120 of 13404 Old 08-31-2019, 12:26 PM
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Manual iris -12 and -9 share the same colour calibration so there is no need to recalibrate just because of the iris change.

On the other hand, at 1450 hours there likely will be changes from aging alone. You can’t tell until you measure it.
Great, thanks. Agree about aging but I did do a full run at around 1100 hours. I hope I'm good for now.
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