Official JVC - 20LTD - RS640 (x990/x9900) - RS540 (X790/x7900) - Owners Thread - Page 429 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #12841 of 13131 Old 12-02-2019, 05:57 PM
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I keep hearing a noise coming from the projector (not the fan) that is constant. It sounds like that tone you get on a cable channel with the rainbow colors. Does anyone know if this is normal or should I be concerned?
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post #12842 of 13131 Old 12-03-2019, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Alex Hindman View Post
I keep hearing a noise coming from the projector (not the fan) that is constant. It sounds like that tone you get on a cable channel with the rainbow colors. Does anyone know if this is normal or should I be concerned?
My guess is it is the eshift noise. Try turning on and off to see if the noise goes away. You will need to be on non 4k source to turn off. Mine makes a buzzing noise that I can not hear once my sound system kicks in.
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post #12843 of 13131 Old 12-03-2019, 05:00 PM
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BB has a great ub420 deal for Black Friday but don't know when it will end. It may carry thru Monday.

You might try Monoprice to see if they run a Cyber Monday deal. I have several older 25' Monoprice passive HDMI cables (24ga Co-Partner Ethernet) which have not given me any problems. But have not tried any of the newer passive HDMI at that length.
I ended getting the Panasonic 420, plus 25” Monoprice Hoss cable. Silly question, can you upload Arve curves from a Mac? It seems like most are using a PC, which would require a new machine. Thanks everyone.
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post #12844 of 13131 Old 12-03-2019, 06:02 PM - Thread Starter
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I ended getting the Panasonic 420, plus 25” Monoprice Hoss cable. Silly question, can you upload Arve curves from a Mac? It seems like most are using a PC, which would require a new machine. Thanks everyone.
Windows is required, but have you consider running a volume with Windows on your Mac? I do it my older MacPro, but that rig has room for a Windows SSD among the 4 internal drive bays.

There are other ways to set up a Windows partition on a large OS X volume, but I by passed the emulation strategies and went with a stand alone Windows volume.

What Mac do you have?

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post #12845 of 13131 Old 12-03-2019, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
You may be confusing between “custom gamma” and “gamma Autocal”. Custom gamma needs to be loaded (or adjusted using the 12-pt controls) for each slot individually, but that has nothing to do with gamma Autocal which “fixes” the base gamma that applies to all.
Okay, so I ran the actual Gamma Only Autocal with my SpyderPro5 (after doing Log only runs). I was like, my PJ is either going to be back to day one or totally hosed. Guess what, it was totally restored to OOTB picture! What a great moment! I carefully followed the Autocal directions and was hand held by Dominic. Thanks dude! I've attached the "gamma only" after correction chart(s). Perfectly straight line for gamma. And Color Temp chart is all within the red circle now! What an improvement in PQ, killer JVC contrast and deep field is back! Like I said, it looks like day one! Thanks, @Dominic Chan .

Edit: I was able to reduce Manual Iris to -6 from -3 after calibration. Autocal must have restored some brightness. (I was pushing 300 hours on PJ)
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post #12846 of 13131 Old 12-03-2019, 08:52 PM
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I'm using this Monoprice Certified Premium High Speed (30ft) with a X7900=RS540, and for regular UHD [email protected], everything works flawlessly.
Never tried anything at 60Hz though ...
These cables are excellent! I have over 50 feet in my av chain and system can handle Bill Lynn's 4K/60 HDR no problem, sync's every time.

i'm glad they made these inexpensive cables, it was a real hassle when UHD was released. with all the expensive cables on the market claiming full 18GB capabilities and many failed.
Yep am using them 3ft to 30ft all work a treat ... now if only we had 32ft -10m 😄 I’d use it to for my projector even if my cheapo 10m seems to work to flawlessly 😄

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post #12847 of 13131 Old 12-04-2019, 09:49 PM
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With more testing after gamma only Autocal at 300 hours, I came to the conclusion that my gamma was hosed (drooping) a long time ago, maybe 100 -150 hours. Re-watching movies I first watched at those times, they are much better! I would have loved to do a Log only Autocal on day one. Would gamma be a straight line then? Good question, right?

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post #12848 of 13131 Old 12-04-2019, 10:08 PM - Thread Starter
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With more testing after gamma only Autocal at 300 hours, I came to the conclusion that my gamma was hosed a long time ago, maybe 100 -150 hours. Re-watching movies I first watched at those times, they are much better! I would have loved to do a Log only Autocal on day one. Would gamma be a straight line then? Good question, right?
Not necessarily. Gamma droop has been reported on new units.
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post #12849 of 13131 Old 12-04-2019, 10:14 PM
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Not necessarily. Gamma droop has been reported on new units.
You'd think JVC QC would be more careful out the door with these multi $K machines.

edit: I'm just happy they were mindful to offer Autocal. (Gamma was going to droop eventually) No problems here!
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post #12850 of 13131 Old 12-05-2019, 03:20 AM
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Originally Posted by catav View Post
You'd think JVC QC would be more careful out the door with these multi $K machines.

edit: I'm just happy they were mindful to offer Autocal. (Gamma was going to droop eventually) No problems here!
Actually one would expect JVC to do a real initial autocal with a high dollar sensor BEFORE boxing, no ?
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post #12851 of 13131 Old 12-05-2019, 09:04 AM
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I took a last look at my Sony HW45ES last night and played with the zoom to get a feel for how things are going to look seating distance wise. I see I have <10 hours on the 45ES so hopefully somebody takes this off my hands when I put it up for sale this weekend. Picture looks great for what it is but I will definitely be grateful for deeper blacks and greater contrast on the x790.

Questions.

1) For people who zoom their x790 for 2.35:1 etc. Do you do any masking for the overspill? The black bars should be less visible than the 45ES.

2) Also a question about ansi contrast of the JVC. How do these compare with other projectors? The 285/385 Sony etc. Even the 45ES?

3) What improvements should I see with the JVC x790 in terms of contrast and black levels? Big differences?

If I don't sell the Sony 45ES before I setup the JVC x790 on the ceiling mount I will see if I can compare the two as the Sony is on a shelf at the moment, but, room treatments will be lacking. As an aside, I plan to implement a rather elaborate blackout curtain setup on both sides of the viewing area including the ceiling.

Picking up the JVC this weekend. Pretty excited. Apart from this brief try with the 45ES I haven't really had a home theatre projector setup for 12 years. Screen to follow via shipping. I have a DIY blackout material screen to use for now as I fine tune the setup.

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post #12852 of 13131 Old 12-05-2019, 04:30 PM
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Windows is required, but have you consider running a volume with Windows on your Mac? I do it my older MacPro, but that rig has room for a Windows SSD among the 4 internal drive bays.

There are other ways to set up a Windows partition on a large OS X volume, but I by passed the emulation strategies and went with a stand alone Windows volume.

What Mac do you have?
I have a 2013 MacBook Air. Ive contemplated doing a bootcamp install before, but figured I could just get an inexpensive laptop.
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post #12853 of 13131 Old 12-05-2019, 04:45 PM
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I've been playing around with settings since I got my RS540 yesterday. Couple of questions/observations.

On a PS4 PRO and display settings do you go automatic, 2160YUV420 or 2160RGB? I've been doing 2160YUV420. I noticed on the PS4 Pro that on Youtube & Amazon Prime I'm getting BT709 +4K but no HDR mode kicking in on the JVC, and no 2084 wide color.

On my Panasonic UB420, I'm getting HDR & Wide Color on Youtube. I also watched The Matrix on 4K Blu-ray. There was very deep blacks, a little grainy/noisy, but I think it is almost part of the look, I could be wrong though.

For HDR, what do most people do before they upload curves and calibrate? Iris at -8 seems really bright to me. It could be blissful ignorance, but this seems pretty bring to me in HDR.

Ive been using an old cable from Amazon and that is working better than the Active cable I purchased from Monoprice, which could not maintain signal.
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post #12854 of 13131 Old 12-05-2019, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by catav View Post
You'd think JVC QC would be more careful out the door with these multi $K machines.

edit: I'm just happy they were mindful to offer Autocal. (Gamma was going to droop eventually) No problems here!
Hey, @SirMaster , good to hear from you. Tonite, I did one more gamma AutoCal, (I know, I'm crazy) paying extreme attention to where the reflection from the Spyder was hitting toward the PJ. I dangled a white piece of paper under the shelf mounted PJ lens. Now, I could see (and position) the exact round Spyder reflection circle, just under the PJ lens. That gave me a warm and fussy feeling. So I re-ran the gamma only calibration and it showed a lowered delta from my first "gamma only" attempt. Oh, boy! I saved the results, and now I'm viewing an even greater planted, 3D looking picture. Thinking about going all the way and diving into CalMan or HCFR software and hardware calibration. (Can you stop me, from all this madness?) Just kidding, I love it!
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post #12855 of 13131 Old 12-05-2019, 09:03 PM - Thread Starter
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I have a 2013 MacBook Air. Ive contemplated doing a bootcamp install before, but figured I could just get an inexpensive laptop.
I think that is a good plan. Most, if not all of the software you might use, runs well on older versions of Windows. So despite my Mac Pro Windows option, I have older laptops from when my kids needed to upgrade for their University work.

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post #12856 of 13131 Old 12-05-2019, 09:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey, @SirMaster , good to hear from you. Tonite, I did one more gamma AutoCal, (I know, I'm crazy) paying extreme attention to where the reflection from the Spyder was hitting toward the PJ. I dangled a white piece of paper under the shelf mounted PJ lens. Now, I could see (and position) the exact round Spyder reflection circle, just under the PJ lens. That gave me a warm and fussy feeling. So I re-ran the gamma only calibration and it showed a lowered delta from my first "gamma only" attempt. Oh, boy! I saved the results, and now I'm viewing an even greater planted, 3D looking picture. Thinking about going all the way and diving into CalMan or HCFR software and hardware calibration. (Can you stop me, from all this madness?) Just kidding, I love it!
Where on the screen does the Spyder cast a shadow?

Did you position the Spyder such that the 100% white test patterns fall just inside the range of the sensor/software?

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post #12857 of 13131 Old 12-05-2019, 09:26 PM
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Where on the screen does the Spyder cast a shadow?

Did you position the Spyder such that the 100% white test patterns fall just inside the range of the sensor/software?

I positioned the Spyder so that it's shadow was centered horizontally/vertically on my scope screen. That would tell me I was centered onto the PJ lens (right?). I paid even more attention to the Spyder optical light reflection back towards the PJ lens. (just under it). Since I was doing a gamma only (no screen involved). It's a very delicate operation. I didn't even walk in the room during calibration!

edit: Oh, and also as close to the PJ, but still inside the orange on screen Autocal box. (you have to run the software to understand what that really means).
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Last edited by catav; 12-05-2019 at 09:37 PM.
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post #12858 of 13131 Old 12-05-2019, 10:54 PM
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I positioned the Spyder so that it's shadow was centered horizontally/vertically on my scope screen. That would tell me I was centered onto the PJ lens (right?). I paid even more attention to the Spyder optical light reflection back towards the PJ lens. (just under it). Since I was doing a gamma only (no screen involved). It's a very delicate operation. I didn't even walk in the room during calibration!

edit: Oh, and also as close to the PJ, but still inside the orange on screen Autocal box. (you have to run the software to understand what that really means).
I haven’t run autocal in a while now, before each run are you reinstating the original file ( if you saved it?).
I think I did the same regarding the reflection of the spyder back on the projector, do you think not having the screen had any effect on the results ?.

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post #12859 of 13131 Old 12-05-2019, 11:30 PM
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I haven’t run autocal in a while now, before each run are you reinstating the original file ( if you saved it?).
I think I did the same regarding the reflection of the spyder back on the projector, do you think not having the screen had any effect on the results ?.
My results have all been good, so I have never had to roll-back to any previous version or the original factory init file. So, I just keep going forward (so far). I've been lucky, that my used SpyderPro5 has been a good meter. Gamma droop was corrected first time I tried. That first time was kind of scary!

My comment about the screen was that it is not important when doing a Spyder "Gamma Only" calibration with sensor facing the PJ lens. Pretty sure, the screen doesn't come into play. I still input all the correct screen data for the program, just in case any of it matters in the gamma correction calculations. Don't know if zoom, focus and throw affect results? Doesn't hurt to error on the upside, right? So far I've had very good results.
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post #12860 of 13131 Old 12-06-2019, 12:24 AM
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My results have all been good, so I have never had to roll-back to any previous version or the original factory init file. So, I just keep going forward (so far). I've been lucky, that my used SpyderPro5 has been a good meter. Gamma droop was corrected first time I tried. That first time was kind of scary!

My comment about the screen was that it is not important when doing a Spyder "Gamma Only" calibration with sensor facing the PJ lens. Pretty sure, the screen doesn't come into play. I still input all the correct screen data for the program, just in case any of it matters in the gamma correction calculations. Don't know if zoom, focus and throw affect results? Doesn't hurt to error on the upside, right? So far I've had very good results.
Good stuff, on my first run something didn’t go right and stupidly I saved it... I then reinstated the init file and redid it. I don’t think my spyder express is all that accurate but I run gamma and colour, it’s a little red but cleans up easily with the i1D3 afterwards, infact I don’t think I bothered tweaking it the last time.
Yeah I doubt just gamma would be affected without a screen, possibly colour would I guess if the screen is white reflecting extra light around the room.
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post #12861 of 13131 Old 12-07-2019, 08:28 PM
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There was some discussion earlier in the thread regarding a few users that have had issues with their dynamic (lens) iris clicking during operation. I too have had the issue and it's been a bit of a pain to get resolved, but more on that later.

What I've noticed with the DI is that it appears to lose an understanding of the bounds of how far it should move, leading to clicking when it tries to move further than mechanically allowed. To test this theory I set the Manual iris value to -1 and then set to Auto 2. This doesn't move the lamp iris but does slightly close down the lens iris to reduce light output.

After watching content for a few minutes I'll start to hear a distinct clicking sound coming from the projector. When this happens I can clearly see that the lens iris is no longer stopping at the slightly close down position when fully "open". Additionally it appears that the iris won't close as far, presumably because it's lost an understanding of where it is.

I sent the unit to JVC last month but for some reason they replaced the lamp iris (which I don't even use anymore) instead of the defective lens iris. As part of that mix up I did learn that a repair for the lens iris does require a full lens replacement, so hoping I don't get a worse "sample" as part of this process.

I've included a video of the issue below and wondering if anyone else with lens iris clicking can confirm the same behavior when set to -1 / Auto 2.

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There was some discussion earlier in the thread regarding a few users that have had issues with their dynamic (lens) iris clicking during operation. I too have had the issue and it's been a bit of a pain to get resolved, but more on that later.

What I've noticed with the DI is that it appears to lose an understanding of the bounds of how far it should move, leading to clicking when it tries to move further than mechanically allowed. To test this theory I set the Manual iris value to -1 and then set to Auto 2. This doesn't move the lamp iris but does slightly close down the lens iris to reduce light output.

After watching content for a few minutes I'll start to hear a distinct clicking sound coming from the projector. When this happens I can clearly see that the lens iris is no longer stopping at the slightly close down position when fully "open". Additionally it appears that the iris won't close as far, presumably because it's lost an understanding of where it is.

I sent the unit to JVC last month but for some reason they replaced the lamp iris (which I don't even use anymore) instead of the defective lens iris. As part of that mix up I did learn that a repair for the lens iris does require a full lens replacement, so hoping I don't get a worse "sample" as part of this process.

I've included a video of the issue below and wondering if anyone else with lens iris clicking can confirm the same behavior when set to -1 / Auto 2.

https://youtu.be/L2G0m5dmZYI
Gutted that you are having an issue with this still. I think all the logic around the automated iris drive is pretty questionable and seems to rely on nothing "unexpected" happening - I stopped relying on it a while ago and only drive the irises manually now.

Hope you get sorted.
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IP control interface crashing

Every few months the IP interface on my X7900 appears to crash and stop responding. This is annoying as I have a script that changes user modes over IP (to get to different iris settings for HDR and SDR). Removing the mains power to the projector momentarily seems to bring it back at next power on.

Has anyone else observed this behaviour? Anything that can be done when setting up a new connection that "kicks" the projector to reset the interface?
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post #12864 of 13131 Old 12-08-2019, 06:47 AM
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Gutted that you are having an issue with this still. I think all the logic around the automated iris drive is pretty questionable and seems to rely on nothing "unexpected" happening - I stopped relying on it a while ago and only drive the irises manually now.

Hope you get sorted.

This is exactly the same problem mine has. It works for a while, then starts to basically become more aggressive and close down more for a given scene. This also causes it to click sometimes on very dark scenes or fade to blacks as it bottoms out by trying to go too far.


Same as you, I'm just running a manual setting only now. Not interested in sending it back and forth to JVC with no resolution. More evidence I'm right about them not being able to resolve it. Mine even works fine for a period of time after power up, so even less chance of them fixing it correctly.


Fortunately with the help of MadVR, I can run a manual setting pretty low (like -9) for HDR content and still get a great image. Really don't miss the dynamic iris at all.
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post #12865 of 13131 Old 12-08-2019, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by talon95 View Post
This is exactly the same problem mine has. It works for a while, then starts to basically become more aggressive and close down more for a given scene. This also causes it to click sometimes on very dark scenes or fade to blacks as it bottoms out by trying to go too far.


Same as you, I'm just running a manual setting only now. Not interested in sending it back and forth to JVC with no resolution. More evidence I'm right about them not being able to resolve it. Mine even works fine for a period of time after power up, so even less chance of them fixing it correctly.


Fortunately with the help of MadVR, I can run a manual setting pretty low (like -9) for HDR content and still get a great image. Really don't miss the dynamic iris at all.
The JVC tech I spoke to last week did indicate they have a program or test pattern that can "stress" the DI to recreate any issues it might have. I just wish they had done this like I asked when I sent it in the first time instead of replacing a part that wasn't an issue.

I tend to like the look of the picture with Auto 2 so while I'm OK to disable for the short term I ultimately want the issue fully resolved. My RS540 will be going back to JVC in February as I'll have my theater torn apart for a basement renovation. Hoping this is the last time I have to deal with an issue as I've already had one advanced replacement (lamp iris) and now this DI issue.
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post #12866 of 13131 Old 12-08-2019, 08:50 AM
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How close are people mounting the x790 to a back wall given cables and air circulation? What is the closest I can expect to mount my pj to a back wall? Within 3" too close? Cables are less of an issue with right-angled adapters and power cords with right-angled ends available. Mostly thinking about air circulation.

Also, wondering, is there an x790 and an x790R or are they the same PJ? No production change part way through or anything?

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post #12867 of 13131 Old 12-08-2019, 10:55 AM
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How close are people mounting the x790 to a back wall given cables and air circulation? What is the closest I can expect to mount my pj to a back wall? Within 3" too close? Cables are less of an issue with right-angled adapters and power cords with right-angled ends available. Mostly thinking about air circulation.

Also, wondering, is there an x790 and an x790R or are they the same PJ? No production change part way through or anything?
Spec is 8", less and "your mileage may vary", there are folk using them closer than that I'm sure. Air is brought into the unit at the rear and expelled out the front.
Note that the lamp access is at the rear, so at 3" you'll also have to dismount the PJ to change lamp.
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post #12868 of 13131 Old 12-08-2019, 04:10 PM
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Spec is 8", less and "your mileage may vary", there are folk using them closer than that I'm sure. Air is brought into the unit at the rear and expelled out the front.
Note that the lamp access is at the rear, so at 3" you'll also have to dismount the PJ to change lamp.
I see online in the manual the 8" measurement from the back to a wall or surface refers to the projector being enclosed in a space with the dimensions as shown in the diagram, 12" to the sides, 6" above and 8" to the back. If in this small of a space you need air conditioning. My guess is that if the projector is ceiling mounted you can place the projector closer to a back wall than 8". I will probably go with 5-6".

If I have to use close to the widest zoom when viewing 2.35:1 films, what do I end up with? Will I have the dimmest image at the widest Zoom? Higher contrast?

How close are people mounting their PJ to the back wall when ceiling mounting?

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post #12869 of 13131 Old 12-08-2019, 04:38 PM
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I see online in the manual the 8" measurement from the back to a wall or surface refers to the projector being enclosed in a space with the dimensions as shown in the diagram, 12" to the sides, 6" above and 8" to the back. If in this small of a space you need air conditioning. My guess is that if the projector is ceiling mounted you can place the projector closer to a back wall than 8". I will probably go with 5-6".

If I have to use the widest zoom when viewing 2.35:1 films, what do I end up with? Will I have the dimmest image at the widest setting? Telephoto vs wide what are the trade-offs? Contrast vs brightness?
I guess at that point you're answering your own question . They actually say in the manual those are minimum dimensions without further qualification, and additionally that if you did make a box to just those minimum dimensions that it wouldn't be sufficient and you'd need an air conditioner too. As I say there are undoubtedly folk using them closer without them catching fire, but whether there is a long term longevity impact or operational impact (such as fans operating faster) is anyone's guess, a couple of inches less at the rear is perhaps unlikely to be significant so long as it isn't close to side walls as well.

I will say as someone who has been involved in these kind of things in manuals before that if they were just sandbagging the numbers you'd expect them all to be identical, and they're not identical, which implies there is some engineering behind them.

Out of interest, is this a projector you already own or one you're looking to get? If you are that tight on the throw, just be mindful that JVC have specified tolerance of +/- 5% on the throw distances in the tables in the manual (they don't quote this figure in the manual, but have in several other places), so if your calcs are showing you needing to be right back against the back wall and you've not allowed for the potential of 5% throw tolerance you might not manage to fill your screen.

As you increase the amount of zoom you are using (ie getting closer to the minimum throw distance for the given screen size) you can expect a reduction in on/off contrast, an increase in ANSI contrast, and an increase in overall light output. I don't think any of the above are earth shattering differences, and if you're constrained in your location (which it sounds like you are) then it doesn't much matter really...! You've got what you've got.

Mine's about 8-10 inches away from the back wall. I don't see any reason to go closer unless you are really short of throw.
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post #12870 of 13131 Old 12-08-2019, 04:54 PM
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I guess at that point you're answering your own question . They actually say in the manual those are minimum dimensions without further qualification, and additionally that if you did make a box to just those minimum dimensions that it wouldn't be sufficient and you'd need an air conditioner too. As I say there are undoubtedly folk using them closer without them catching fire, but whether there is a long term longevity impact or operational impact (such as fans operating faster) is anyone's guess, a couple of inches less at the rear is perhaps unlikely to be significant so long as it isn't close to side walls as well.

I will say as someone who has been involved in these kind of things in manuals before that if they were just sandbagging the numbers you'd expect them all to be identical, and they're not identical, which implies there is some engineering behind them.

Out of interest, is this a projector you already own or one you're looking to get? If you are that tight on the throw, just be mindful that JVC have specified tolerance of +/- 5% on the throw distances in the tables in the manual (they don't quote this figure in the manual, but have in several other places), so if your calcs are showing you needing to be right back against the back wall and you've not allowed for the potential of 5% throw tolerance you might not manage to fill your screen.

As you increase the amount of zoom you are using (ie getting closer to the minimum throw distance for the given screen size) you can expect a reduction in on/off contrast, an increase in ANSI contrast, and an increase in overall light output. I don't think any of the above are earth shattering differences, and if you're constrained in your location (which it sounds like you are) then it doesn't much matter really...! You've got what you've got.

Mine's about 8-10 inches away from the back wall. I don't see any reason to go closer unless you are really short of throw.
I bought the projector and am waiting for it to arrive. For 16:9 films the throw will be perfectly fine with my 50.75" screen height with the zoom around 1.47x ...but when I zoom out wider to fill the screen for 2.35:1 movies I end up being at the limit of the projectors zoom range.

My limiting factors are the room is not huge, and I am trying to have a screen in front of a wall mounted TV. What I will probably end up doing is zooming a bit less when I do 2.35:1 films and just live with it or mask the screen down a bit. I was able to zoom the Sony and it worked ok for 2.35:1 with a 49.75" height with the throw distance even shorter (screen 26" off the wall in front of TV for testing). The Sony 45ES appears to be a shorter throw projector if thats the way you word things comparing on projector central. I could mount the projector a couple inches closer to the rear wall (ceiling mounted it will be 24" down and in the centre of the room so 6" instead of 8" to the back wall should be ok)...Pushing the screen farther back against the wall will buy me more throw at the cost of pushing the screen farther away. These two things will buy me almost another 10-12" of throw. If I wanted to make it work with the shorter throw I could try an anamorphic lens as long as I don't have pincushion.

This is using the projector central projector calculator set to 16:9 . To estimate the 2.35:1 zoom I just zoomed until the height was 33% greater. Is there a better calculator than the projector central one? I am also going by the chart in the JVC manual. They seem to produce similar results.

One thing this is teaching me is that in order to use this very good projector the best I either need a longer throw setup or a smaller screen. Quite frankly that sucks. Not all people have huge rooms for home theatres. The total distance from wall to wall in the room I am using is 208". When I was in projectors last I had 204" total and had a screen on the wall and used a prismasonic lens and was able to do scope with a screen height of 50-53"...

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