Official JVC - 20LTD - RS640 (x990/x9900) - RS540 (X790/x7900) - Owners Thread - Page 434 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #12991 of 14023 Old 12-31-2019, 11:40 PM
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Yea price dropped. I've got one on the way. I'm confident it will be good, but I will do some measurements to compare to my original #'s. Dug up my original post.



https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...l#post55402606



Kinda curious since there has been some talk of JVC hand picking lamps, etc... At that price close counts though. Just use high lamp whenever I want and buy another one. Probably will buy another one fairly soon in case the supply dries up.


The supply shouldn’t dry up any time soon since the latest NX projectors are using the same bulb still.
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post #12992 of 14023 Old 01-05-2020, 01:32 AM
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Auto Iris "out-of-bounds" issue

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Originally Posted by BdoUK View Post
What I've noticed with the DI is that it appears to lose an understanding of the bounds of how far it should move, leading to clicking when it tries to move further than mechanically allowed...
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Originally Posted by bobof View Post
I think all the logic around the automated iris drive is pretty questionable and seems to rely on nothing "unexpected" happening
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Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post
I had this issue with 2 different JVC RS4910 models. I sent the first in to be repaired, came back worse. JVC replaced it and that one developed the same issue.

In both cases the DI worked fine for months before starting this issue. Once it started, there were times it was fine, and other times is would do it constantly. Sometimes switching to a different frame rate or inout and then back would get it working again, other times not. Basically when I wanted to watch a movie it was a crapshoot whether the DI would work or not.
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Now it is obvious there is a problem as it's becomes much more noticeable after viewing for a period of time and the manual iris positions change in regards to light output (get dimmer).
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
That’s my impression as well. The only functional difference I can think of, is the dynamic iris being activated for HDR on the 40 series. People have noticed that the iris position setting can get out-of-sync with the physical iris position.
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Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post
hi I have followed the 00 series since release date and don't recall the frequency of this topic until the 540 series. maybe something changed over time, different hardware manufacturer?
I am also having the DI "out-of-bounds" issue on my RS540. There is some minor clicking and pumping, but not enough to bother me or make me not want to use DI. My issue is that during a movie, the range between upper and lower brightness bounds becomes reduced through the duration of the movie. Wherein the lens stops opening fully on the brightest scenes and stops closing fully on the darkest scenes. This correlates to what I'm seeing others have experienced. I've found that I can temporarily correct the issue by switching to manual and cycling a few times over the full range between fully closed and fully open, and then switching back to auto.

I see some people resort to using Manual iris, but the problem for me is that DI "Auto 2" produces a MUCH better experience. This is very clear. I've really tried liking the Manual setting, particularly as a means to avert the DI issue, but I just can't come to terms with giving up on DI.

My RS540 is out of warranty, so I'd like to get as much info about this issue as I can so that I can figure out my options. It would be really nice if there were a firmware fix.
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post #12993 of 14023 Old 01-05-2020, 03:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Neverbicker View Post
I am also having the DI "out-of-bounds" issue on my RS540. There is some minor clicking and pumping, but not enough to bother me or make me not want to use DI. My issue is that during a movie, the range between upper and lower brightness bounds becomes reduced through the duration of the movie. Wherein the lens stops opening fully on the brightest scenes and stops closing fully on the darkest scenes. This correlates to what I'm seeing others have experienced. I've found that I can temporarily correct the issue by switching to manual and cycling a few times over the full range between fully closed and fully open, and then switching back to auto.

I see some people resort to using Manual iris, but the problem for me is that DI "Auto 2" produces a MUCH better experience. This is very clear. I've really tried liking the Manual setting, particularly as a means to avert the DI issue, but I just can't come to terms with giving up on DI.

My RS540 is out of warranty, so I'd like to get as much info about this issue as I can so that I can figure out my options. It would be really nice if there were a firmware fix.
It's a mechanical problem. Replacing the iris mechanism is the only way to fix it, but as you can see from all the posts, it may not stay fixed.
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post #12994 of 14023 Old 01-05-2020, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Neverbicker View Post
I am also having the DI "out-of-bounds" issue on my RS540. There is some minor clicking and pumping, but not enough to bother me or make me not want to use DI. My issue is that during a movie, the range between upper and lower brightness bounds becomes reduced through the duration of the movie. Wherein the lens stops opening fully on the brightest scenes and stops closing fully on the darkest scenes. This correlates to what I'm seeing others have experienced. I've found that I can temporarily correct the issue by switching to manual and cycling a few times over the full range between fully closed and fully open, and then switching back to auto.

I see some people resort to using Manual iris, but the problem for me is that DI "Auto 2" produces a MUCH better experience. This is very clear. I've really tried liking the Manual setting, particularly as a means to avert the DI issue, but I just can't come to terms with giving up on DI.

My RS540 is out of warranty, so I'd like to get as much info about this issue as I can so that I can figure out my options. It would be really nice if there were a firmware fix.
Can you work out if the DI is simply jamming up and not working, or seems to be mis-ranged? If you try opening or closing the manual iris, does the lens iris (diamond you can see in the lens) appear to reach fully closed or fully open significantly before either end of the adjustment range?]]

The lamp iris can certainly be mis-ranged quite easily on my X7900, and can also be re-ranged. This is a different mech to
1) Set HDR and SDR modes to have different iris - say -15 for SDR and 0 for HDR.
2) Play HDR content and see that the PJ automatically switches to HDR mode and opens iris
3) Turn off projector.
4) Make sure SDR content is playing.
5) Turn on projector. It will think the iris is at SDR position (-15) but will be at HDR position (0).
6) Attempt to open iris a few steps - you'll hear it grinding off the end stops, and maybe break it if you do it enough.

You can reverse it by turning off with SDR playing and making sure HDR is playing when you next start up. It will then think the iris is in correct position.

I don't know if the DI (lens) iris can be similarly unsynchronized. If it can, then this procedure might get it working.
If that is the case it is quite possible that folk who get it fixed and then find it breaking again just use their projector in a way that provokes the unsynchronization - perhaps they turn it all off while watching HDR and then turn it back on with an SDR menu. That would likely break it frequently.
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post #12995 of 14023 Old 01-05-2020, 12:51 PM
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Possibly a broken gear part in the servo motor. Servo motors that make clicking sounds can be normal, but if it was not clicking before then started clicking, means the servo motor has a worn gear or a broken piece inside usually. At first they can get very sticky, then they often release themselves and from there on will produce clicking sounds from the worn out or misaligned parts. After this occurs, the motor will no longer be centered properly. The intermittent fixing of the issue is usually just because the range was such as that it worked even being off-center in that case, but it still isn't centered. It could be possible to fix depending if you could get to the necessary parts during a disassembly.

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post #12996 of 14023 Old 01-05-2020, 01:16 PM
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If that is the case it is quite possible that folk who get it fixed and then find it breaking again just use their projector in a way that provokes the unsynchronization - perhaps they turn it all off while watching HDR and then turn it back on with an SDR menu. That would likely break it frequently.
If that’s all JVC does to “fix” the broken iris it would be really disappointing. They need to revise the design to prevent unsynchroniztion from happening.
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post #12997 of 14023 Old 01-05-2020, 01:20 PM
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If it's going out of range, my bets are worn out or defective servo motor, rather than that being a normal 'out of range' issue. Having to do tricks to get it working again is the same kind of thing I've had to deal with in other servo setups, as they start to wear out. If anyone hears a "new clicking sound", that is classic servo gear alignment or worn gear issue, or the band connecting the gears is out of whack.

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post #12998 of 14023 Old 01-05-2020, 01:38 PM
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I know in my case there isn't anything odd about how I operate the projector that led to the DI failure. In fact I always put the projector back into SDR mode before shutting down, it's just part of the normal process I go through. I do run my manual (lamp) iris wide open for both SDR and HDR (Chad B. recommended this due to my previous lamp iris failure) so I know the DI is working farther across its range than if I had the lamp iris further closed down.

JVC has told me that in order to correct the DI issue it requires a whole lens replacement. My projector is in route to them as we speak (they should have it Wednesday) and I'm interested to get more information from their tech team on what exactly happened with my projector.

I'm hopeful the lens setup will 1) not suffer the same issue and 2) maintain a comparable "sharpness" to my existing lens. Given the issues I've had with the RS540 I'm still a little pessimistic but let's see what happens .
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post #12999 of 14023 Old 01-05-2020, 01:42 PM
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I'm hopeful the lens setup will 1) not suffer the same issue and 2) maintain a comparable "sharpness" to my existing lens. Given the issues I've had with the RS540 I'm still a little pessimistic but let's see what happens .
I would be surprised if they replace the entire lens assembly over this, but I don't know. I would think they have access to the failed parts. Will be interesting to hear what happens. My DI working perfectly on my RS-420 so far, but haven't used it that much.

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post #13000 of 14023 Old 01-05-2020, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
If that’s all JVC does to “fix” the broken iris it would be really disappointing. They need to revise the design to prevent unsynchroniztion from happening.
No, I think eventually it becomes terminal and something either ends up eaten in the geartrain or jumps to somewhere it shouldn't. My first X7900 became terminal and went back. I had the replacement with me for a while while I also had the broken unit (distributor advance shipped it) and nothing I could do to the broken unit would make it work properly again.

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I know in my case there isn't anything odd about how I operate the projector that led to the DI failure. In fact I always put the projector back into SDR mode before shutting down, it's just part of the normal process I go through. I do run my manual (lamp) iris wide open for both SDR and HDR (Chad B. recommended this due to my previous lamp iris failure) so I know the DI is working farther across its range than if I had the lamp iris further closed down.

JVC has told me that in order to correct the DI issue it requires a whole lens replacement. My projector is in route to them as we speak (they should have it Wednesday) and I'm interested to get more information from their tech team on what exactly happened with my projector.

I'm hopeful the lens setup will 1) not suffer the same issue and 2) maintain a comparable "sharpness" to my existing lens. Given the issues I've had with the RS540 I'm still a little pessimistic but let's see what happens .
I'm certainly not suggesting you've done anything odd in operation. I'd be surprised if anyone can hand on heart say they have never powered off and then back on in different modes. Apple TV 4k, for example, in my system has been known to decide to come up in HDR if it sees the AVR power up in a different order as it thinks there is a different display connected. In my case I can make my iris unsyncrhonize at will by following the steps above, which shouldn't really be possible, but I've had zero luck in getting anyone to follow the steps in the procedure as, well, who wants to do something that might break thousands of dollars of projector?! It does make me wonder though if perhaps some units made it out of the factory without a working limit switch installed to limit travel or similar. That's the kind of thing I could see slipping through a test procedure in a factory quite easily.

My first X7900 ended up with the lamp iris totally broken - I think you get a certain amount of bounces off the endstops before something eats a gear. That unit had to be replaced. On this unit I never output the HDR flag to the projector any more so it never switches modes automatically, and since doing that I'm all good. I was very much in the habit of hitting the Off button on my harmony remote when the credits rolled, and to be honest that's a behaviour I'd probably struggle to curb.

Out of interest, can you probe a little to see if it is just the lens or the entire optical block? On the X35 range and previous there is no separate part number for the lens and optical block, it is the whole assembly as one. So lens, D-ILA chips, mirror box, integrator lens, colour filter, lamp iris, etc etc. It's only a few screws and the whole lot comes out. I guess it made sense not having to train local service centres to repair these complex assemblies. I wonder if it is still the practice. There may also be different levels of servicing possible at different levels of service centre (perhaps the optical block has a separate manual that only certain facilities get access to).
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post #13001 of 14023 Old 01-05-2020, 02:07 PM
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Sending units out without a working limiter, I would be very surprised as the limiter is the simplest and least likely part to stop functioning. More likely is bad quality control on the servo motors and they go out of alignment. This is a common problem and happens across all industries using servo or actuator motors. Once anything goes out of alignment or slips, it can still work but it will always make noises or not work as well, or get stuck again. It is usually the 'going out of alignment' issue itself that then wears the gear down, rather than the gear wearing itself, as most of the gears are just standard. However, it's errors in the precision of the molding using cheap MFR process that causes the servo motor to slip on the gear which then wears it out. The other common issue is just a cheap motor that cannot work as well as it ages. That's the same symptom as is usual in this stuff.

Cheap parts they purchased from China to add into the lens assembly is my guess. Never heard of the limit switch failing on a servo motor, heard of it not working, but not because it failed but because the gears were so far out of alignment that it wasn't even being triggered cause the servo wasn't moving far enough to trigger it.

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post #13002 of 14023 Old 01-05-2020, 02:31 PM
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In my case,

1. DI works when first powered on. Takes anywhere from 30 minutes to a couple of hours to show issues. A power cycle always resets it (so far).

2. Each step down on the manual setting is larger than normal (DI closes more). BUT wide open (zero) measures very close to the same light output. Maybe slightly less (like 5% max). But other steps may be nearly 50%.

3. The DI will click on a fade to black, but no other time, suggesting it is hitting the bottom of it's travel.
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post #13003 of 14023 Old 01-05-2020, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by BdoUK View Post
I know in my case there isn't anything odd about how I operate the projector that led to the DI failure. In fact I always put the projector back into SDR mode before shutting down, it's just part of the normal process I go through. I do run my manual (lamp) iris wide open for both SDR and HDR (Chad B. recommended this due to my previous lamp iris failure) so I know the DI is working farther across its range than if I had the lamp iris further closed down.

JVC has told me that in order to correct the DI issue it requires a whole lens replacement. My projector is in route to them as we speak (they should have it Wednesday) and I'm interested to get more information from their tech team on what exactly happened with my projector.

I'm hopeful the lens setup will 1) not suffer the same issue and 2) maintain a comparable "sharpness" to my existing lens. Given the issues I've had with the RS540 I'm still a little pessimistic but let's see what happens .
The DI might wear out a little faster with the manual setting at zero just because the DI goes through a larger range of travel in that case compared to the manual setting in a more closed position. Obviously this is not a case of using the projector in an odd unexpected way though.

Reality is the iris mechanism is a cheap POS given how many fail.

Bobof's procedure is really only applicable to the lamp iris, not the DI.
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post #13004 of 14023 Old 01-05-2020, 02:42 PM
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In my case,

1. DI works when first powered on. Takes anywhere from 30 minutes to a couple of hours to show issues. A power cycle always resets it (so far).

2. Each step down on the manual setting is larger than normal (DI closes more). BUT wide open (zero) measures very close to the same light output. Maybe slightly less (like 5% max). But other steps may be nearly 50%.

3. The DI will click on a fade to black, but no other time, suggesting it is hitting the bottom of it's travel.
No way of knowing with symptoms alone, you would have to take it apart and test the motor opened up and outside the projector, which sounds near impossible due to how cramped and complex the lens assembly looks (who would want to even try, right)... Sounds like in your case it might just be barely out of alignment.

Not all servos have limiters, many are just enclosed in plastic and the casing is a 'physical limiter' with the assumption that the servo or stepper will never go out of alignment. If a servo hits the limit of its travel without a limiter in place, then it would be very loud depending on the design, more like a load thump. Also it will change the sound from a whirring sound to a buzz-saw, now this depends on the specific type of servo motor or stepper motor, as they vary. So no real way of knowing I guess, but that is the sound I have heard when it happens.

It just making a sound might just be because you had a scene that pushed it far enough to hit the bad gear or the end, as the precise point of the directional change is often where it will be out of alignment or the gear is worn. So it's not uncommon for it to be out of alignment near the end of it's range.

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post #13005 of 14023 Old 01-05-2020, 02:45 PM
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I would be surprised if they replace the entire lens assembly over this, but I don't know. I would think they have access to the failed parts. Will be interesting to hear what happens. My DI working perfectly on my RS-420 so far, but haven't used it that much.
They told Craig (who told me), replacing the DI mechanism is simple and quick procedure. I guess that doesn't preclude changing the lens assembly but somehow I had the impression it was less of a repair. He also said the advantage of doing a repair in this case is getting back your otherwise good unit and any calibration done.
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post #13006 of 14023 Old 01-05-2020, 02:50 PM
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They told Craig (who told me), replacing the DI mechanism is simple and quick procedure. I guess that doesn't preclude changing the lens assembly but somehow I had the impression it was less of a repair. He also said the advantage of doing a repair in this case is getting back your otherwise good unit and any calibration done.
I have a major disdain for servos and actuators, I have spent hours trying to get to them and dealing with them. I always replaced them, even though it is possible fix them sometimes, they will generally go bad again. Just like car locks which use an actuator, how often do electric locks eventually go dead, exactly.

Annoying MFR processes and people cutting corners. It's very easy to put an actuator or servo on a mechanical tester device to know EXACTLY how long it will last.

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post #13007 of 14023 Old 01-05-2020, 04:09 PM
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When ChadB was calibrating my 540, we could hear both irises (lamp and DI) failing. One was clicking, one was grinding, can't remember exactly which was which. Anyway, we needed all the light we could get anyway so the manual setting is 0 for both SDR and HDR and I turned off the DI. Projector is calibrated and completely stable. I don't care about the lamp iris -- but it bothers me that the DI is failing/failed, I liked the Auto2 setting. However, I think these parts will invariably fail again, so either I'll wait til the end of warranty to replace or upgrade to the NX7. Right now I'm just relying on native contrast.

Greatly appreciate the checklist in the thread to get the max life out of these parts but given my family uses the projector as well, it's impossible to enforce.

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They told Craig (who told me), replacing the DI mechanism is simple and quick procedure. I guess that doesn't preclude changing the lens assembly but somehow I had the impression it was less of a repair. He also said the advantage of doing a repair in this case is getting back your otherwise good unit and any calibration done.
If this is accurate I might do it. I just worry about shipping these things back and forth as well as the time it takes...would be great if they could do this in place...
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post #13008 of 14023 Old 01-05-2020, 04:23 PM
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The DI is very nice to have, especially even more important for those of us on the lower models (RS-420). In my position, given the low price deal I got on the RS-420, I'm still doing pretty good even the DI fails, but hopefully it won't happen.

I was going to keep the old RS-45 for 2 more years, and go straight to an NX series. However, it got to the point where the silly price I got on the RS-420 made me not want to wait any longer.

The blacks are definitely not great on the RS-420 without the DI, but should look pretty good on the RS-5xx or 6xx series. I wanted the RS-5xx, but it was a tough choice, as it was either pay 2.5x more for a 520/540 used with no warranty, or get a B-stock RS-420 and 2-year warranty (thanks to Amex extension). So I sacrificed the higher contrast to have a warranty, as this was the last lone B-stock from this series and I got tired of waiting.

The RS-540 has a bit higher volume than some of the past JVC's, I think it was one of the most popular JVC models ever sold. So that might be part of the reason for seeing more failures, not sure though. However, some in this thread have had some RS-400/420/500/520/600/620 for a few years now without a failure.
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post #13009 of 14023 Old 01-05-2020, 04:33 PM
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However, some in this thread have had some RS-400/420/500/520/600/620 for a few years now without a failure.
My impression is also that the RS-x40 have higher rate of iris failures than previous models. One possibly is that the DI for HDR was only added starting with that model line.
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post #13010 of 14023 Old 01-05-2020, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by talon95 View Post
They told Craig (who told me), replacing the DI mechanism is simple and quick procedure. I guess that doesn't preclude changing the lens assembly but somehow I had the impression it was less of a repair. He also said the advantage of doing a repair in this case is getting back your otherwise good unit and any calibration done.
In October I sent my RS540 in for my clicking DI issue and JVC actually ended up replacing the lamp iris even though I called out the DI in my letter included with the projector. It's my understanding the lamp iris is fairly straight forward when it comes to replacement. After this mix up I spoke directly with Matt at JVC California to clear up the confusion. It was at that time he informed me that a lens iris replacement would require a full change of the lens assembly.

Maybe Craig and/or Mike could clear this up as the invasiveness of the repair appears to be higher with the lens iris.
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post #13011 of 14023 Old 01-06-2020, 05:02 AM
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Maybe mine has ears because it suddenly works perfect. And it's been on nearly constantly since my last post. Completely silent, no pumping, stays synchronized, and responds faster than I can generally recognize. The last thing I did before it started working fine was set to manual iris and the set it from fully open to fully closed down, going back and forth four times. From what I could see on screen while doing this, it took the first two cycles to get it to fully opened and fully closed down and I added two more cycles for good measure. Now it's working way better than it did even at zero hours. I don't know if the manual cycling had anything to do with making the DI work so well, I just had to cycle it to open up the range of brightness projected onto the screen. For the type of movies I watch, I really cant live without Auto 2 DI. Very happy for now but fingers crossed.
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post #13012 of 14023 Old 01-06-2020, 08:15 AM
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Depends how much that screen is you are looking out, very nice screen out there for not so much $$$

I'm looking at one of the powered masking screens from SeymourAV. This is a far off purchase for me though, as the Chad B calibrated image on my current screen looks phenomenal.

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Currently watching on: JVC X790, 106" Screen, FireTV Cube (2nd Gen), Oppo 203, w/Marantz SR6011, 2 Outlaw M2200, Outlaw Model 5000, SVS Subs, PSA and Def Tech Speakers
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post #13013 of 14023 Old 01-06-2020, 11:16 AM
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This may be a dumb question but how do I delete a lens memory? I cannot for the life of me find a way to do it in the lens control submenus.

5.2.4: JVC RS540 | Stewart Greyhawk 120” 2.35 | AudioControl AVR-9 | Oppo 203 | TV 4K | Xbox One X | Roku Ultra | Triad Rackamp 700 | Gold/6 LCR | Silver surrounds & heights | Bronze/6 subs
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post #13014 of 14023 Old 01-06-2020, 12:31 PM
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This may be a dumb question but how do I delete a lens memory? I cannot for the life of me find a way to do it in the lens control submenus.
I don’t believe there’s any way, of doing that, short of resetting the projector. Just overwrite the old setting if you need to, or ignore it if you don’t.

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post #13015 of 14023 Old 01-06-2020, 12:38 PM
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I don’t believe there’s any way, of doing that, short of resetting the projector. Just overwrite the old setting if you need to, or ignore it if you don’t.
Thanks Dominic. Thought I was going crazy there for a minute.

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post #13016 of 14023 Old 01-07-2020, 06:06 AM
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Hi, I have an RS540, how can I verify the correct functioning of the DI?
thanks
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post #13017 of 14023 Old 01-07-2020, 09:39 AM
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A few quick questions about the x790 and Panasonic 820 vs 9000

Hey folks.

My new JVC x790 and 130" diagonal elunevision 2.35:1 screen both sit in their boxes as a back injury two weeks ago has my living room home theatre build on pause. I will probably sell my Oppo 103 and replace with a Panasonic 820 (analog outs for my older receiver). Once up and running I will have the screen mounted on the wall and will experiment with zooming vs anamorphic lens.

A few simple questions.

1) The Reference Series RS 540 = The Procision Series x790 but what is is the x7900? Same model? Why the extra zero? Is there a JVC x790, x790R and an x790RB? If so what are the differences?

2) Can I assume the x790 does vertical stretch for 4k titles it plays eShifted and for 1080p 3D ? (I see the JVC x790 does not play 3D in eShifted 4k if such titles exist)

3) Has anybody paired the x790 with a contrast boosting ALR screen? Was it worth it or can we achieve similar results with darkening the room etc?

4) Has anybody found the 9000 has anything worthwhile over the 820?

thanks folks


Last edited by cpc; 01-07-2020 at 06:40 PM.
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post #13018 of 14023 Old 01-07-2020, 02:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cpc View Post
Hey folks.

My new JVC x790 and 130" diagonal elunevision 2.35:1 screens both sit in their boxes as a back injury two weeks ago has my living room home theatre build on pause. I will probably sell my Oppo 103 and replace with a Panasonic 820 (analog outs for my older receiver). Once up and running I will have the screen mounted on the wall and will experiment with zooming vs anamorphic lens.

A few simple questions.

1) The Reference Series RS 540 = The Procision Series x790 but what is is the x7900? Same model? Why the extra zero? Is there a JVC x790, x790R and an x790RB? If so what are the differences?

2) Can I assume the x790 does vertical stretch for 4k titles it plays eShifted and for 1080p 3D ? (I see the JVC x790 does not play 3D in eShifted 4k if such titles exist)

3) Has anybody paired the x790 with a contrast boosting ALR screen? Was it worth it or can we achieve similar results with darkening the room etc?

4) Has anybody found the 9000 has anything worthwhile over the 820?

thanks folks

1 ... all same models with cosmetic variation on the RS

3... dark room treatment at your screen size will be immersive and impressive.

4 ... NO, save your $$$ and go ub820, or even ub420, but you need nb the audio outputs.

Congrats on the new gear. Hope your back improves quickly. Take it slow and seek helping hands.

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post #13019 of 14023 Old 01-07-2020, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by pippo53 View Post
Hi, I have an RS540, how can I verify the correct functioning of the DI?
thanks
You really can't unless it's totally busted. Some clues:

1) It makes a clicking sound sometimes during normal viewing. (mine does no fade to black)
2) Very noticeable pumping on normal material (not fade to black or credits which it will be visible anyway).
3) After viewing for a couple of hours, light output is reduced due to the DI not opening as far (only seen on mine if you are running the manual setting below zero).

If you don't notice it operating other than fade to black or credits, it's probably fine.
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post #13020 of 14023 Old 01-07-2020, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpc View Post
Hey folks.



My new JVC x790 and 130" diagonal elunevision 2.35:1 screens both sit in their boxes as a back injury two weeks ago has my living room home theatre build on pause. I will probably sell my Oppo 103 and replace with a Panasonic 820 (analog outs for my older receiver). Once up and running I will have the screen mounted on the wall and will experiment with zooming vs anamorphic lens.



A few simple questions.



1) The Reference Series RS 540 = The Procision Series x790 but what is is the x7900? Same model? Why the extra zero? Is there a JVC x790, x790R and an x790RB? If so what are the differences?



2) Can I assume the x790 does vertical stretch for 4k titles it plays eShifted and for 1080p 3D ? (I see the JVC x790 does not play 3D in eShifted 4k if such titles exist)



3) Has anybody paired the x790 with a contrast boosting ALR screen? Was it worth it or can we achieve similar results with darkening the room etc?



4) Has anybody found the 9000 has anything worthwhile over the 820?



thanks folks



U should buy the new vertex so u can do Dolby vision I believe you will need the 820 for this.. It looks amazing

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
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