Official JVC - 20LTD - RS640 (x990/x9900) - RS540 (X790/x7900) - Owners Thread - Page 437 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #13081 of 13132 Old 01-13-2020, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by neo_2009 View Post
I'm considering buying a Spyder5 to perform a gamma calibration with JVC Autocal V10 (for a JVC X7900), and later an I1 Display PRO to be able to do a 3D LUT calibration on madVR.

When searching for autocal information, i saw this post from Manni:


I think i also saw another post (i've tried to find it, but i couldn't), were Manni also states than when using a 3DLUT, there may be no need for an Autocal calibration.

@Manni01 , please forgive me if i'm incorrectly interpreting what you posted ... Would you mind clarifying the above? Thank you!
That is exactly how I've interpreted his post. But let me add, I did a Autocal Gamma Cal. (only) @ 250 hrs (Spyder 5 pro). It took the PJ back to day one (b/c of gamma droop). (RS540) Spyder 5 Pro was used with Autocal 10. I would be reluctant to use the Spyder 5 for Color cal. from everything I've read.

edit: I would be sure to use a pro tripod for aligning the sensor with PJ lens. Sensor needs to be (extremely stable) at height of PJ lens (actually) an inch or so below or above PJ light path (mounted about halfway or so between PJ and screen, pointed at lens). Gave me the best gamma cal. numbers.
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post #13082 of 13132 Old 01-14-2020, 01:09 AM
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Originally Posted by neo_2009 View Post
I'm considering buying a Spyder5 to perform a gamma calibration with JVC Autocal V10 (for a JVC X7900), and later an I1 Display PRO to be able to do a 3D LUT calibration on madVR.

When searching for autocal information, i saw this post from Manni:


I think i also saw another post (i've tried to find it, but i couldn't), were Manni also states than when using a 3DLUT, there may be no need for an Autocal calibration.

@Manni01 , please forgive me if i'm incorrectly interpreting what you posted ... Would you mind clarifying the above? Thank you!
Hi there,

When you run a JVC Autocal with a spyder for gamma and an i1pro2 (or a known good or corrected Spyder) for color, you end up with something like a dE max of around 5 dE and an average dE of around 1.5 if all went well (measuring a large colorchecker set). That means that for many, it will be good enough and a 3D LUT isn't really necessary. If you want to get closer, you can run over this a small 3D LUT in 10 minutes (around 100 points, I use a Calman Lightning LUT) that will bring you close to reference because the baseline after the Autocal is very linear. That will bring you roughly to a dE max of 1.5 and a dE average under 1, which is near reference. Of course, you'll get a few bigger errors if you run a larger verification set, but for most, that's more than good enough, especially given that you have to do this every 200-500 hours. Total time: 20-30 minutes. Running an Autocal and no 3D LUT will most of the times give you a much better result if your target gamut is way over the native gamut (for example if you want BT2020 but the display is only able to reach P3).

The alternative is to not run a JVC Autocal first, and to run a large 3D LUT (because in that case the baseline for the LUT is not as linear). You then need to use a LUT that is at least 1,500points, preferably 5,000 points, even 10,000 if you're a maniac or your starting point isn't great. That takes hours to run (here, with my Discus trained to the ipro2, it takes anything between 2.5 and 5 hours to run a 5,000 points 3D LUT, depending on the software used). Visually, you get a similar result (or reference if you used a reference meter to profile the display), but it takes 3-5.5 hours (unless you have a K10A or similar). From a dE point of view, you will probably get less "spikes", but you could also get more artifacts overall due to the fact that you have more external corrections. Better numbers doesn't necessarily mean better picture overall, it only means theoretically more accurate, but you can still have banding, posterization, etc). For example if you run a large LUT with a BT2020 target but your display only cover P3, you'll most likely get a lot of posterization, so Autocal + no LUT in that case is much better.

That's why, for the JVCs, with a good Spyder (especially when using an i1pro2 for color), I prefer the first method (Autocal then small LUT if target gamut isn't far above native gamut) or no LUT (if target gamut is far above native gamut). That saves dozens of lamp hours vs no Auotcal and large LUT, and the result is more or less the same if you interest is in watching movies and not in watching patterns.

Hope this clarifies.
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post #13083 of 13132 Old 01-14-2020, 02:06 AM
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Going to try this myself as soon as I get around to it, have the color and gamma pretty good without the auto-cal just from a basic Calman session, but I know auto-correcting the droop would be better, even though I was able to manually get around it.

Interesting, my Spyder 4 Pro was right on the money compared to a NIST certified C6 oddly enough, but had to order a Spyder5 for the auto-cal.
Could not use the Spyder 5 Express in Calman, but the Spyder 4 Pro worked fine in Calman.

Anyone know if it is my older Calman 5.xxx version missing Spyder 5 drivers, or is the limitation that the Spyder 5 Express doesn't work in Calman?

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post #13084 of 13132 Old 01-14-2020, 10:11 AM
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CPlasma,

Thanks for the link. I would if I could but it ain’t mine to sell.
Have him sign up, great place to sell your used goods
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post #13085 of 13132 Old 01-14-2020, 05:13 PM
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My x790r gets here Friday and I can not wait. I’m doing a living room setup with it. The room is not treated as it’s our living room. I painted the the surrounding walls a bit dark. There not super dark but better then white. I only have one sliding door that has blackout shades that blocks most of the light. I got a 110 inch alr screen. I had a 77 oled in here but I wanted bigger. I was going to use the projector as my tv but the more I thought about it the more I did not like that idea. I picked up a Samsung frame tv and mounted where I had a picture. It turned out great. Now I can use that for day to day watching and save the projector for movies and gaming.
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post #13086 of 13132 Old 01-14-2020, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
... That's why, for the JVCs, with a good Spyder (especially when using an i1pro2 for color), I prefer the first method (Autocal then small LUT if target gamut isn't far above native gamut) or no LUT (if target gamut is far above native gamut). That saves dozens of lamp hours vs no Auotcal and large LUT, and the result is more or less the same if you interest is in watching movies and not in watching patterns...
Definitely, movie watcher here..

I ran gamma only Autocal for my RS540 @ 250 hrs. with Spyder 5 Pro. Gamma droop was corrected. So you're saying, using i1pro2 for color Autocal with no LUT (if target gamut is far above native gamut) should work fine. I'm new to calibration, could you explain "target gamut" and "native gamut" a little more? I really don't want to have to create a LUT, if not required, but do want close to reference gamut if possible.

I only use BT.2020 on my 540 with madVR, by the way. Thanks.

Last edited by catav; 01-14-2020 at 08:34 PM.
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post #13087 of 13132 Old 01-14-2020, 09:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adamd View Post
My x790r gets here Friday and I can not wait. I’m doing a living room setup with it. The room is not treated as it’s our living room. I painted the the surrounding walls a bit dark. There not super dark but better then white. I only have one sliding door that has blackout shades that blocks most of the light. I got a 110 inch alr screen. I had a 77 oled in here but I wanted bigger. I was going to use the projector as my tv but the more I thought about it the more I did not like that idea. I picked up a Samsung frame tv and mounted where I had a picture. It turned out great. Now I can use that for day to day watching and save the projector for movies and gaming.
That Samsung looks perfect. I agree with your thinking about everyday TV viewing. Most programming doesn't warrant a JVC PJ. I don't like burning my bulb on average stuff. And you could always use a 4K HDR HDMI Switcher on the signal between the TV and JVC for total control. You're going to be one happy camper on Friday.

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post #13088 of 13132 Old 01-14-2020, 09:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
When you run a JVC Autocal with a spyder for gamma and an i1pro2 (or a known good or corrected Spyder) for color,
I was wondering if my i1pro2 could be used for Autocal gamma, or if there is a way with LightSpace and my i1D3. I don’t have a Spyder.

Andrew
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post #13089 of 13132 Old 01-15-2020, 12:05 AM
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Hey guys,
I may have a brightness problem with my RS540 and I’m trying to figure out if i have a settings issue, if there’s something wrong with the bulb or if this is the expected result.

I’m admittedly using a cheap light meter (15 bucks on amazon), but it supposedly has an accuracy rating within 5%, so I figured it’d be useful for a rough approximation of my total output and for relative measurements) Here’s what I did:

Using my meter, I measured about 191 lux with the meter facing the projector but the back of the probe touching the screen surface. I pulled the reading from the 100IRE pattern in the service menu. That was the absolute brightest measurement I could pull from dead center. The corners where more in the 140-150 range.

I’m using a 120” 16:9 screen from silver ticket, which I believe has an actual gain of about 1.0. I calculated this out to about 60nits on low bulb.

Reading through the thread, I’m seeing Javs and others using his curves for HDR on low bulb and getting brightness comparable to SDR. When I try the same the image seems far too dark. The only way I was able to get HDR that looked acceptably bright to my eyes was with Dominic’s 60nit curves, which seems to line up with my measurements. His curves are designed for 100nit or 85 nit output.

Is what I’m getting in line with the rs540? Do I just need to suck it up and use high lamp for HDR? also, what’s the best absolute max contrast setup. Is it high lamp with the manual iris closed down a bit? High lamp wide open? Low lamp wide open? I’m frankly a bit confused as to how the fixed aperture setting can affect total contrast at all?
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post #13090 of 13132 Old 01-15-2020, 02:24 AM
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Sounds like a defective lamp if you got that measurement with the aperture at 0, that would be a bit under 700 ANSI lumens if you did the measurement correctly.
Dominic sells bulbs, but I'd contact JVC under warranty and let them know. You might try buying a second cheap light meter, just to make sure.

RS-540 gets good contrast at -12 and the DI will still kick in in Auto1/Auto2 mode. Set aperture first, then set to auto.

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post #13091 of 13132 Old 01-15-2020, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
When you run a JVC Autocal with a spyder for gamma and an i1pro2 (or a known good or corrected Spyder) for color ..
The problem with this approach is that an i1pro2 is VERY expensive

Assuming we only have around 150-200€ to spend, what would be the approach you would recommend?

1 - Buy a Spyder 5 Express, and use it only for a Autocal Gamma calibration (to correct potential gamma drops), every 300h (??),
2 - Buy an X-Rite i1Display Pro, and use madVR to perform a 3D LUT
3 - An alternative approach, which one, based on the cost constraints?

Thank you !!!
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post #13092 of 13132 Old 01-15-2020, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by neo_2009 View Post
The problem with this approach is that an i1pro2 is VERY expensive

Assuming we only have around 150-200€ to spend, what would be the approach you would recommend?

1 - Buy a Spyder 5 Express, and use it only for a Autocal Gamma calibration (to correct potential gamma drops), every 300h (??),
2 - Buy an X-Rite i1Display Pro, and use madVR to perform a 3D LUT
3 - An alternative approach, which one, based on the cost constraints?

Thank you !!!
There are a few calibration threads on this forums and others, depending on your model. I suggest you post in the relevant one after reading the available information

However if your budget is that low, 1) is a good option.

By the way, i1pros are not that expensive, you can find identical clones for much less than the originals.
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post #13093 of 13132 Old 01-15-2020, 10:41 PM
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Finally got my X790 today!

Unfortunately it came with a phone call from the dealer saying that they had accidentally sent me a unit that was meant for another client and they had performed an “isf” calibration, that was now free for me. Needless to say I was pissed.

I immediately asked to talk to their ISF tech. I asked him exactly what was done and got a very vague response. I asked if they had performed an Autocal and had a copy of the init file and he didn’t seem to know what I was talking about. When I pushed for more info I was informed that they “used a meter and a pattern generator to adjust rgb gain and offset, some colours (no precise info) and gamma and brightness”. When I asked in which modes, I was told “Cinema and possibly HDR”. I asked how many hours they put on the bulb, I was told not more than an hour or 2. Why someone would pay to have this done on a new bulb, in a dealers lab, is beyond me.

Given the above, can I reset this mess back to factory default. Is there any risk in accepting this projector, it will take at least a week round trip, and I am not even sure they have an untouched model in stock? Can I ever verify that an Autocal was not done? Can there have been any damage done to the DI?

Are there actual ISF enforcement of standards?

Thanks for your thoughts and comments.

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post #13094 of 13132 Old 01-15-2020, 10:48 PM
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Forget all that stuff about calibration as that would not concern me, because you can adjust that later...

#1 check to make sure it's not a B-stock (maybe the serial?).
#2 Check the tightness of the focus with e-shift off, see how delineated the pixels are.
#3 Check convergence error
#4 Check black level uniformity and see if it has bright corners on a pure black image.
#5 Listen for any strange noises (the weird DI bootup noise is normal I think though)
#6 Make sure both HDMI ports are working
#7 Run some test patterns if you want
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post #13095 of 13132 Old 01-15-2020, 11:14 PM
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@anevard
The quality of the particular units focus you received is more important than any calibration changes he made, as well as the black level uniformity. You can reset the color without even doing a factory reset, just measure it with a meter and see how far off it is. If he didn't do an auto-cal, then you basically have the default calibration already anyhow by just resetting the individual mode.

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post #13096 of 13132 Old 01-16-2020, 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by coderguy View Post
@anevard
The quality of the particular units focus you received is more important than any calibration changes he made, as well as the black level uniformity. You can reset the color without even doing a factory reset, just measure it with a meter and see how far off it is. If he didn't do an auto-cal, then you basically have the default calibration already anyhow by just resetting the individual mode.
The whole thing sounds fishy to me. Why wouldn't the dealer simply have the calibrator undo his adjustments, put it back in the box and not even get you involved? I personally would refuse delivery based on unknown handling of what is supposed to be a virgin, new PJ.
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post #13097 of 13132 Old 01-16-2020, 12:03 AM
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Sounds like a defective lamp if you got that measurement with the aperture at 0, that would be a bit under 700 ANSI lumens if you did the measurement correctly.
Dominic sells bulbs, but I'd contact JVC under warranty and let them know. You might try buying a second cheap light meter, just to make sure.

RS-540 gets good contrast at -12 and the DI will still kick in in Auto1/Auto2 mode. Set aperture first, then set to auto.
So I did some more measuring today. If I throw the unit on high lamp with color set to high bright and manual aperture at 0, I get 1367 lumens on my 1.0 gain silver ticket 120” 16:9 screen. High bright isn’t an acceptable color setting IMHO, so this is purely a measurement in the name of science. My actual useful lumens are a fair bit lower.

Is that “close enough” or should I be shipping off the bulb for testing with JVC? I’m looking at paying for shipping (it’s a b stock projector) and 2 weeks without a functioning projector, so I’m a bit torn as to what to do. I can get an HDR image I’m very happy with on high lamp, but I don’t have any headroom for the lamp aging, nor do I have enough light to try to improve HDR contrast by stopping down.

Earlier sections of the thread have Javs mentioning getting near 100 nits on low map with his 640, whereas my 540 seems to be getting about 85 nits on high lamp.

All of which is further complicated by the fact that I’m using this $15 meter from Amazon, and I’m not sure how much to trust it’s measurements.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My gut tells me it’s accurate, if only because Jav’s 85 nit curves look spot in (maybe a hair dark) using high lamp + color filter on, but his 100 nit curves look downright dark, and neither set of curves is watchable on low lamp.

I’m left with 3 options;
1- just bite the bullet and have JVC test the bulb
2- buy a better light meter that’s more trustworthy
3- run a gamma calibration with a Spyder 5 and hope that my lumen output improves as a result.

Any suggestions from the brain trust here would be much appreciated!
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post #13098 of 13132 Old 01-16-2020, 12:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by filmgeek47 View Post
So I did some more measuring today. If I throw the unit on high lamp with color set to high bright and manual aperture at 0, I get 1367 lumens on my 1.0 gain silver ticket 120” 16:9 screen. High bright isn’t an acceptable color setting IMHO, so this is purely a measurement in the name of science. My actual useful lumens are a fair bit lower.



Is that “close enough” or should I be shipping off the bulb for testing with JVC? I’m looking at paying for shipping (it’s a b stock projector) and 2 weeks without a functioning projector, so I’m a bit torn as to what to do. I can get an HDR image I’m very happy with on high lamp, but I don’t have any headroom for the lamp aging, nor do I have enough light to try to improve HDR contrast by stopping down.



Earlier sections of the thread have Javs mentioning getting near 100 nits on low map with his 640, whereas my 540 seems to be getting about 85 nits on high lamp.



All of which is further complicated by the fact that I’m using this $15 meter from Amazon, and I’m not sure how much to trust it’s measurements.



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1



My gut tells me it’s accurate, if only because Jav’s 85 nit curves look spot in (maybe a hair dark) using high lamp + color filter on, but his 100 nit curves look downright dark, and neither set of curves is watchable on low lamp.



I’m left with 3 options;

1- just bite the bullet and have JVC test the bulb

2- buy a better light meter that’s more trustworthy

3- run a gamma calibration with a Spyder 5 and hope that my lumen output improves as a result.



Any suggestions from the brain trust here would be much appreciated!


In my experience you should be around 1900 lumens on average for high bulb high brightness mode.

Also, gamma calibration has 0 effect on brightness. Gamma does not change white at all.
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post #13099 of 13132 Old 01-16-2020, 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by filmgeek47 View Post
... Any suggestions from the brain trust here would be much appreciated
Not in the brain trust, but this is my experience...

I think your numbers look quite reasonable. I too have a cheap light meter from Amazon. I get about 60 nits low bulb on a 143” scope screen using RS540/Natural/BT2020 in SDR. But, HDR requires at minimum 100 nits as it’s goal. Most likely high bulb being required. I'm having a great time just using madVR SDR2020, low bulb for my viewing. JVC RS4/5/6xx PJ’s really aren’t the best devices for reproducing HDR PQ content. Custom gamma curves required. Still just producing static curves and very rudimentary. That’s why I am staying with madVR HSTM/DTM/SDR2020 with my RS540. Picture is phenomenal.

Last edited by catav; 01-16-2020 at 02:22 AM.
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post #13100 of 13132 Old 01-16-2020, 02:29 AM
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Originally Posted by filmgeek47 View Post
I get 1367 lumens on my 1.0 gain silver ticket 120” 16:9 screen. High bright isn’t an acceptable color setting IMHO, so this is purely a measurement in the name of science.
Uncalibrated, that number should be 1600-2000 depending on your mounting position and lamp variance. 1600 would be within an acceptable variance, 1370 is not.

I'm not sure why you'd send the entire projector back, I would simply buy a new lamp from Dominic @ $110.
After buying the new lamp, take measurements from both, then tell JVC the old lamp measured 30% under spec, and ask them for a replacement.

Keep in mind the projector is rated to 1900 lumens, so that number is too far off even just from JVC's own rating.

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post #13101 of 13132 Old 01-16-2020, 02:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by filmgeek47 View Post
...
I’m left with 3 options;
1- just bite the bullet and have JVC test the bulb
2- buy a better light meter that’s more trustworthy
3- run a gamma calibration with a Spyder 5 and hope that my lumen output improves as a result.

Any suggestions from the brain trust here would be much appreciated!
I would also just measure using an actual picture mode you would care about using everyday. I wouldn't care about non-usable esoteric settings used mainly for marketing numbers. Focus and report about those realistically used setting numbers instead. Those are the ones that matter.

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post #13102 of 13132 Old 01-16-2020, 03:23 AM
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By the way, here is my method of calculating Nits for a given Picture mode:

Calculating Projector Luminance and ftL of Screen:

Using Light meter: Calculate Total ANSI Lux by adding 9 different lux readings
(at "x" in below screen diagram) from 9 locations at the screen.

Project a white 100 IRE frame on screen, such as a blank white page from a word processor.

Have projector in mode that you will use it in, such as, Natural picture mode with "High lamp",
Dynamic Iris off and Manual Iris fully open. Note: using color profile "BT2020" will put the color filter
in place and reduce luminance by 15-20%. So you can measure with or without filter (oh...what fun!)

Hold meter as close to screen as posible, at following "x" locations (without touching screen),
facing meter sensor at projector lens.

------
x x x
x x x
x x x
------

Calculate Avg Lux = Total ANSI Lux readings / 9

Calculate Projector Lumens per square foot = (Avg Lux * Screen sqft ) / 10.76

Note 1): If you have a screen that is not 16x9 (projector native aspect ratio), such as, 2.35:1,
I would divide your screen width inches by 1.77 to get "Actual projected Screen Height" and
use that to calculate screen square footage. After all, that's what we are "actually" projecting.

Note 2): 10.76 = Square feet in one square meter. (1 Lux = 1 Lumen per square meter)
Lux are measurements in square meters. So 10.76 converts us from square meters to square feet, which is

what we need to calculate Projector Lumens per square foot.

Calculate Luminance in FtL= (Projector Lumens per square foot / Screen sqft) * Screen Gain

Calculate Luminance in Nits = 3.426 * Luminance in FtL
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Last edited by catav; 01-16-2020 at 03:29 AM.
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post #13103 of 13132 Old 01-16-2020, 03:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by filmgeek47 View Post
So I did some more measuring today. If I throw the unit on high lamp with color set to high bright and manual aperture at 0, I get 1367 lumens on my 1.0 gain silver ticket 120” 16:9 screen. High bright isn’t an acceptable color setting IMHO, so this is purely a measurement in the name of science. My actual useful lumens are a fair bit lower.
Things to check:
1) You're not using enhanced or superwhite mode for HDMI input and sending video white (235) for your test image. If you do that, you will take an instant peak output hit. You can try and frig this by just increasing the contrast control - if your white measurement goes up as you increase contrast, you're not sending a suitable white for lumens testing. You can just whack the contrast up until it stops increasing white measurement - all you really care about here in this sort of test is the peak optical white level (if you're comparing to the factory numbers)
2) That you are in profile off with the filter off. That should avoid the CMS / autocal data if present reducing peak white, and ensures no filter losses.
3) Check what your zoom position is. There is a significant decrease in lumen output if you don't have your projector as close as possible to the screen for a given screen size.
Ekki from Cine4home measured the previous X7500 (http://cine4home.de/heute-bei-uns-di...a-x5500-x7500/) as:
Uncalibrated: 1880 lumens high lamp max zoom iris 0.
Calibrated: 1580 high lamp maximum zoom iris 0 (largest image at given throw)
1240 high lamp minimum zoom iris 0 (smallest image at given throw).
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post #13104 of 13132 Old 01-16-2020, 04:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by filmgeek47 View Post
So I did some more measuring today. If I throw the unit on high lamp with color set to high bright and manual aperture at 0, I get 1367 lumens on my 1.0 gain silver ticket 120” 16:9 screen. High bright isn’t an acceptable color setting IMHO, so this is purely a measurement in the name of science. My actual useful lumens are a fair bit lower.
Which 1.0 gain Silver Ticket screen are you using? If it’s the matte grey, the actual gain is about 0.6 by my measurements.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-sc...l#post58823388

Last edited by Dominic Chan; 01-16-2020 at 06:37 AM.
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post #13105 of 13132 Old 01-16-2020, 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by anevard View Post
Given the above, can I reset this mess back to factory default. Is there any risk in accepting this projector, it will take at least a week round trip, and I am not even sure they have an untouched model in stock? Can I ever verify that an Autocal was not done? Can there have been any damage done to the DI?
If you don’t trust their “ISF calibration” you can just do a factory reset. If the “ISF tech” doesn’t know anything about Autocal then chances are he didn’t run it, but there is no way to tell for certain; i.e., whether your INIT file is truly the factory calibration version.

Chances of DI being damaged due to calibration is extremely remote.
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post #13106 of 13132 Old 01-16-2020, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
Which 1.0 gain Silver Ticket screen are you using? If it’s the matte grey, the actual gain is about 0.6 by my measurements.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-sc...l#post58823388
Matte white, so basically 1.0 gain.
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post #13107 of 13132 Old 01-16-2020, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by coderguy View Post
Uncalibrated, that number should be 1600-2000 depending on your mounting position and lamp variance. 1600 would be within an acceptable variance, 1370 is not.

I'm not sure why you'd send the entire projector back, I would simply buy a new lamp from Dominic @ $110.
After buying the new lamp, take measurements from both, then tell JVC the old lamp measured 30% under spec, and ask them for a replacement.

Keep in mind the projector is rated to 1900 lumens, so that number is too far off even just from JVC's own rating.
I wouldn’t be sending the whole unit back, just the lamp. I hadn’t looked into just replacing the bulb. Would JVC accept the original bulb w/o housing for testing? That doesn’t sound likely but it would make my life a lot easier.

Wallet’s a bit thin after the holidays so buying a new lamp for several hundred $$$ isn’t an option at the moment.
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post #13108 of 13132 Old 01-16-2020, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
If the “ISF tech” doesn’t know anything about Autocal then chances are he didn’t run it, but there is no way to tell for certain; i.e., whether your INIT file is truly the factory calibration version.
Well there is a way, do an autocall and if the previous save is named "init" in its name then the autocall has never been made.
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post #13109 of 13132 Old 01-16-2020, 09:29 AM
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Well there is a way, do an autocall and if the previous save is named "init" in its name then the autocall has never been made.
No, that only means Autocal has never been made on that particular computer (and using that particular folder).
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post #13110 of 13132 Old 01-16-2020, 09:47 AM
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No, that only means Autocal has never been made on that particular computer (and using that particular folder).
Sorry but I do not see what the computer running the autocal application has something to do with the initial saving of the projector's internal values.

What I meant is that if he runs an autocal and if it is the first time that this is being done with that particular projector then the autocal application will save a file with "init" in its name, and this is only done once for this projector.

Did I miss something in the procedure ?
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