Official JVC - 20LTD - RS640 (x990/x9900) - RS540 (X790/x7900) - Owners Thread - Page 445 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #13321 of 13364 Old 02-11-2020, 03:23 PM
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Looking to finally change my 110” Stewart StudioTek 130 material fixed frame non-perforated screen.

I have a bat cave and want to go with a weave screen. Any recommendations?

Seymour AV seems popular.


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post #13322 of 13364 Old 02-11-2020, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingchip161 View Post
So would it be best to leave the R/B/G all at zero and only adjust the white color?
If you don't see any colour tints then there's no reason to touch the R/G/B controls.

For white the optimal adjustment depends on the screen as well as the movie. My signature has a link to some suggested settings.
Thank you I will check those out!!

One more question for you.

So you only adjust the picture tone, dark level, and bright level on the R/G/B colors if you see color tints of those colors? So then since white is the combination of the R/G/B colors when you adjust the white picture tone, dark level, and bright level are you kind of shifting the R/G/B colors equally along the gamma curve or what is happening when u make adjustments to the white color?

Also thank you for helping me to understand this! I appreciate it
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post #13323 of 13364 Old 02-11-2020, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Kingchip161 View Post
So you only adjust the picture tone, dark level, and bright level on the R/G/B colors if you see color tints of those colors? So then since white is the combination of the R/G/B colors when you adjust the white picture tone, dark level, and bright level are you kind of shifting the R/G/B colors equally along the gamma curve or what is happening when u make adjustments to the white color?
Adjusting white is indeed equivalent to adjusting r/g/b by equal amount, although apparently you can do both (adjust white and r/g/b by equal amounts).

The first post of this thread contains more suggested settings.
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post #13324 of 13364 Old 02-12-2020, 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by giomania View Post
Looking to finally change my 110” Stewart StudioTek 130 material fixed frame non-perforated screen.

I have a bat cave and want to go with a weave screen. Any recommendations?

Seymour AV seems popular.


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What’s your seating distance?


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post #13325 of 13364 Old 02-12-2020, 06:50 AM
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What’s your seating distance?


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I have to measure, but the front row seating position is around 10-12 feet from the screen.

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post #13326 of 13364 Old 02-12-2020, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by giomania View Post
I have to measure, but the front row seating position is around 10-12 feet from the screen.

Mark


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I had the Seymour XD material and I really liked it at 11’, but I redesigned my room and Chris sent the UF material to change it out with when my distance dropped to 9’.

Definitely could see the weave of XD at 9’ so UF is the better choice. But I liked the higher gain of the XD more.

UF is also much easier to work with and smooth out, but again, lower gain.

So, at 10-12’, you are right in no man’s land. Get an accurate measurement and call Chris. He’s very helpful.


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post #13327 of 13364 Old 02-12-2020, 09:49 AM
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post #13328 of 13364 Old 02-12-2020, 11:30 AM
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Okay, I just have to post the strangest thing I have experienced on my one year old RS540 tonight. And it is a great story (at least for me).

It all started when I ran Gamma only Autocal. You have to turn off DI and it’s recommended to fully open Manual Iris, which I did, during Autocal. After the Autocal, I turned DI back on (Auto 2) and put Iris at -3 (my standard settings).

But, I watched a few scenes from GOTG2 before returning PJ to standard settings. I noticed a BIG change in picture sharpness, black level, calmness and overall 4K clarity. I attributed it to the calibration.

I thought little of it until tonight when I went back to DI off and iris fully open (just like after the gamma cal), on a hunch. Wow, the picture quality (definition) is now way improved! I was just following recommended settings and never questioned DI (Auto 2) for over a year!

Maybe it’s just my setup, but I had to say something. This is not a subtle difference.

Can anyone else test this and report?

Attached picture is with DI off Iris fully open, right after gamma calibration.
Are you sure you're not just responding to the brightness increase? Brightness (like volume with audio) can definitely affect your perception of overall image quality. From my admittedly limited knowledge, it doesn't seem to me like the manual iris setting would alter clarity. Opening it up without auto iris on would significantly raise your black level and diminish native contrast.
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post #13329 of 13364 Old 02-12-2020, 12:29 PM
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Is there anyone with the previously described "aggressive" DI issue who had it successfully repaired by JVC? My RS540's in the shop right now. They replaced my lamp (yay) which was under spec for brightness, but it sounds like they're not going to do anything about the DI. They're going to evaluate it again tomorrow, but it would be great to know if there is anyone out there who had a hardware repair resolve the issue.

EDIT: I’ve posted a poll in it’s own thread on this issue. If anyone who’s experienced it could vote it would provide some helpful data to sort this out.

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post #13330 of 13364 Old 02-12-2020, 07:16 PM
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Do any of you guys use the THX mode for sdr? I tried it with a movie last night. It looked good. A bit dimmer and less contrast to my eyes not sure if I’ll use it again.
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post #13331 of 13364 Old 02-12-2020, 07:34 PM
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Do any of you guys use the THX mode for sdr? I tried it with a movie last night. It looked good. A bit dimmer and less contrast to my eyes not sure if I’ll use it again.
THX mode engages the colour filter for better accuracy, and also uses a higher gamma than Normal. In most case people close down the iris manually to get to 50 nits for SDR, so the slightly lower output should not result in a net decrease in brightness.
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post #13332 of 13364 Old 02-12-2020, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Adamd View Post
Do any of you guys use the THX mode for sdr? I tried it with a movie last night. It looked good. A bit dimmer and less contrast to my eyes not sure if I’ll use it again.
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THX mode engages the colour filter for better accuracy, and also uses a higher gamma than Normal. In most case people close down the iris manually to get to 50 nits for SDR, so the slightly lower output should not result in a net decrease in brightness.
As with a few others here, I switched to using THX mode just to avoid the filter click which gets really annoying using an Apple TV. My previous SDR setting was about -11 on the Iris, but with THX mode I moved it up to -9 or so to compensate for the filter losses. Theoretically I am trading contrast for a minor amount if color improvement, which I probably am not capable of seeing, so if it were not for the filter click I would probably not have made that choice, as contrast changes are readily apparent.
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post #13333 of 13364 Old 02-13-2020, 08:01 AM
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No Worries! Thank you!
I have bad news for you.. lol DirecTV canceled the game moved it to another channel and was played in hd.. hahaha found another game being played in hdr hlg for the 14th.. will recorded and test for you.. sorry

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post #13334 of 13364 Old 02-13-2020, 08:12 AM
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hahaha found another game being played in hdr hlg for the 14th.. will recorded and test for you.. sorry

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Not a problem. Happy Valentine's Day it is then!
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post #13335 of 13364 Old 02-13-2020, 09:00 PM
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post #13336 of 13364 Old 02-13-2020, 09:04 PM
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Do any of you guys use the THX mode for sdr? I tried it with a movie last night. It looked good. A bit dimmer and less contrast to my eyes not sure if I’ll use it again.
Before I had my unit calibrated I exclusively used THX exclusively. I felt it was the most accurate preset. I’m glad I had it calibrated because it blows THX out of the water now.
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post #13337 of 13364 Old 02-14-2020, 02:11 PM
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I had the Seymour XD material and I really liked it at 11’, but I redesigned my room and Chris sent the UF material to change it out with when my distance dropped to 9’.

Definitely could see the weave of XD at 9’ so UF is the better choice. But I liked the higher gain of the XD more.

UF is also much easier to work with and smooth out, but again, lower gain.

So, at 10-12’, you are right in no man’s land. Get an accurate measurement and call Chris. He’s very helpful.


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I am getting samples per their recommendation.

Thanks!


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post #13338 of 13364 Old 02-14-2020, 03:42 PM
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Just an FYI for those dealing with the Rs540 DI issue. I just got my projector back from service. Had a long and very helpful conversation with the tech that worked on it. He ended up replacing the lamp iris on my unit but not the lens iris, which he said was working within spec.

The way it was explained to me, even though the lamp iris is manual, it still affects the movement of the lens iris as the two are working in tandem. He said when he disassembled my unit, he could manipulate the lamp iris by hand and found that it was sticking in certain positions, and then later eventually springing back into place. So essentially the lamp iris being stuck was preventing the DI from operating correctly, and then it would eventually start working again when the lamp iris unstuck itself.

I can confirm that moving the manual iris through the steps in the menu is a bit smoother now.

This might explain why some people were finding that the issue went away after they ran the manual iris through its range a few times.

I’ll report back if the issue occurs again, but I’m cautiously optimistic that they’ve resolved it, and for the specific issue I was experiencing, it was in fact a hardware issue.
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post #13339 of 13364 Old 02-15-2020, 04:53 AM
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post #13340 of 13364 Old 02-15-2020, 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by filmgeek47 View Post
Just an FYI for those dealing with the Rs540 DI issue. I just got my projector back from service. Had a long and very helpful conversation with the tech that worked on it. He ended up replacing the lamp iris on my unit but not the lens iris, which he said was working within spec.

The way it was explained to me, even though the lamp iris is manual, it still affects the movement of the lens iris as the two are working in tandem. He said when he disassembled my unit, he could manipulate the lamp iris by hand and found that it was sticking in certain positions, and then later eventually springing back into place. So essentially the lamp iris being stuck was preventing the DI from operating correctly, and then it would eventually start working again when the lamp iris unstuck itself.

I can confirm that moving the manual iris through the steps in the menu is a bit smoother now.

This might explain why some people were finding that the issue went away after they ran the manual iris through its range a few times.

I’️ll report back if the issue occurs again, but I’️m cautiously optimistic that they’️ve resolved it, and for the specific issue I was experiencing, it was in fact a hardware issue.
That’s interesting. How much sound does your lamp iris make when making adjustments? Mine makes a noticeable Mechanical sound every two clicks. I do not use DI but I tried it and I do not hear it. My projector is a month old with 100 hours. It’s made the same sound since new.
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post #13341 of 13364 Old 02-15-2020, 07:15 AM
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Not a problem. Happy Valentine's Day it is then!
They changed the game again.. wow. I'm not going crazy I read on another thread some games have gotten changed to hd and to another channel.. I will look later and see when the next one is but I think I saw it's for the 17th? Also I'm sure u checked your cables right?

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post #13342 of 13364 Old 02-15-2020, 09:35 AM
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That’s interesting. How much sound does your lamp iris make when making adjustments? Mine makes a noticeable Mechanical sound every two clicks. I do not use DI but I tried it and I do not hear it. My projector is a month old with 100 hours. It’s made the same sound since new.

In my experience a mechanical sound every two clicks of the lamp iris is completely normal. A loud, cringe-inducing grinding sound is not...
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post #13343 of 13364 Old 02-15-2020, 10:34 AM
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That’️s interesting. How much sound does your lamp iris make when making adjustments? Mine makes a noticeable Mechanical sound every two clicks. I do not use DI but I tried it and I do not hear it. My projector is a month old with 100 hours. It’️s made the same sound since new.

In my experience a mechanical sound every two clicks of the lamp iris is completely normal. A loud, cringe-inducing grinding sound is not...
Good to know thanks.
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post #13344 of 13364 Old 02-15-2020, 01:19 PM
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This is my first Jvc projector and I’ve noticed some internal lens reflections when I have a mostly black screen with a smaller bright area. Only seems to happen when it’s at the top 1/3 of the screen. I also see some very slight streaking if I really look for it but it has to be in like a test pattern with white on black. I just want to know if this is to be expected. I run it in low with Iris open. Projector is also almost at max zoom so this might be why I see the reflections more. With 2:35:1 movies in high contrast scenes the letter box bars almost look like very mild blooming. Ive put the first 100 hours on my x790 and have been really impressed with it for the most part. Was a big change going from a 77 oled to a 110 inch screen.

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post #13345 of 13364 Old 02-15-2020, 01:20 PM
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This is my first Jvc projector and I’ve noticed some internal lens reflections when I have a mostly black screen with a smaller bright area. Only seems to happen when it’s at the top 1/3 of the screen. I also see some very slight streaking if I really look for it but it has to be in like a test pattern with white on black. I just want to know if this is to be expected. I just put my first 100 hours on my x790 and have been really impressed with it for the most part. Was a big change going from a 77 oled to a 110 inch screen.
Yes normal. I think someone else asked about this just the other day.
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post #13346 of 13364 Old 02-15-2020, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
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This is my first Jvc projector and I’️ve noticed some internal lens reflections when I have a mostly black screen with a smaller bright area. Only seems to happen when it’️s at the top 1/3 of the screen. I also see some very slight streaking if I really look for it but it has to be in like a test pattern with white on black. I just want to know if this is to be expected. I just put my first 100 hours on my x790 and have been really impressed with it for the most part. Was a big change going from a 77 oled to a 110 inch screen.
Yes normal. I think someone else asked about this just the other day.
Thanks. I think I’m almost over my ocd looking over. This thing as really impressed me even in a room that’s not light treated.
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post #13347 of 13364 Old 02-15-2020, 03:30 PM
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That’s interesting. How much sound does your lamp iris make when making adjustments? Mine makes a noticeable Mechanical sound every two clicks. I do not use DI but I tried it and I do not hear it. My projector is a month old with 100 hours. It’s made the same sound since new.
I’m sure your iris is fine. I think mine was a weird edge case. It wasn’t much louder than it is now, but it was a bit more crunchy sounding. The way it as interacting with the DI was also very noticeable.
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post #13348 of 13364 Old 02-15-2020, 09:49 PM
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...The way it was explained to me, even though the lamp iris is manual, it still affects the movement of the lens iris as the two are working in tandem. He said when he disassembled my unit, he could manipulate the lamp iris by hand and found that it was sticking in certain positions, and then later eventually springing back into place. So essentially the lamp iris being stuck was preventing the DI from operating correctly, and then it would eventually start working again when the lamp iris unstuck itself.
This makes a lot of sense. Sometimes cycling the manual iris would fix the DI pumping issue for me, sometimes not. But it did ALWAYS reset the accompanying issue of loss of max brightness over time.
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post #13349 of 13364 Old Yesterday, 12:59 AM
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post #13350 of 13364 Old Yesterday, 01:35 AM
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Hi,

My Friend just bought a brand new JVC X790R and he hooked this to HTPC (with nvida RTX card). He has pretty big 145 inch screen and projector has enough brightness for that on high lamp. It is quite laud but with audio on noise disappears.

I have helped him a lot with setting up this since I have greater experience with projectors.

We have used Madvr HDR to SDR mapping what looks great with HDR mode on projector. I have few questions though.

1. The first issue is with PC games with HDR. It is very much washed out, poor colours, doesn't matter which mode or gamma setting we use. It is a disappointment so far but it has to be a way to make it to very good nice color level?

2. When I switch on the frame interpolation (at 4k) in the movies (at low to remove some blurr) there is huge out of sync with audio. How do you deal with that?

3. With lamp set at high how quickly will it lose brightness to the level it will be easily noticeable?



Thanks in advice for your help.

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