Official JVC - 20LTD - RS640 (x990/x9900) - RS540 (X790/x7900) - Owners Thread - Page 461 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #13801 of 13819 Old 05-22-2020, 06:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
No, this series needs Autocal 10, and Spyder X only works with Autocal 12 (for the NX series).
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post #13802 of 13819 Old 05-22-2020, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce Lowekamp View Post
I’ve been a bit frustrated with lip-sync issues for awhile and decided to try to track down what’s going on.

Right now it seems like audio is synced properly with the RS540 in low latency mode, but otherwise it’s not right (needs to be delayed maybe another 200ms with low latency off).

I had thought this might be because I have a denon 4300 with both my RS540 and an older Optoma DLP plugged into the second zone 1 output (use the Optoma for video games and some TV watching). But last night I unplugged the Optoma, changed the RS540 to low latency on then back off, and still had lip sync problems.

There’s also an HDfury Integral 2 in the path from the 4300 to the RS540, but the problem existed before I added that. I also had it using an Xbox One as the player and still have it with an x700.

So I think I have some issue with lip sync working properly between my 4300h and RS540, but other than switching low latency to off haven’t figured out what it is. Auto lip sync is enabled on the 4300h, and I can fix it manually there, but I’d really like it to work automatically, especially since there are two projectors I use.

Any ideas?

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Bruce


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Hi, Bruce. Is your Denon receiver processing the video signal, or do you have it set up for straight "pass through" (possibly labeled "Direct" mode)? Tracking down lip sync problems means eliminating components from the "chain" until you find which component is causing the delay. If you only have one avr, that makes it more difficult. By chance does your player have dual hdmi outputs? If so, feed the Denon AVR with one HDMI and the other direct to your projector. In the past I discovered by accident that operating two projectors simultaneously can cause HDMI problems if both projectors are not exactly in spec with each other. Good Luck

Good Viewing,John G  JVC DLA-X790 Projector, Vutec 110" (16x9) Bright White Screen, Panasonic DP-UB420, Zappiti Mini4K HDR, Zidoo Z9s, Synology DS418 NAS, Yamaha RX-A2070 AVR, Toshiba 1250 NTSC-PAL Region Free BR Player, 7 Paradigm Reference spkrs w Dual Subs,   & Yamaha 6600 External Amp
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post #13803 of 13819 Old 05-22-2020, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johng View Post
Hi, Bruce. Is your Denon receiver processing the video signal, or do you have it set up for straight "pass through" (possibly labeled "Direct" mode)? Tracking down lip sync problems means eliminating components from the "chain" until you find which component is causing the delay. If you only have one avr, that makes it more difficult. By chance does your player have dual hdmi outputs? If so, feed the Denon AVR with one HDMI and the other direct to your projector. In the past I discovered by accident that operating two projectors simultaneously can cause HDMI problems if both projectors are not exactly in spec with each other. Good Luck
Since it was a a Dolby Vision stream, the AVR certainly shouldn't be doing anything to the video (it won't even put the volume overlay up). Though I can look and see if there are settings somewhere in video I can change.

I do have the ability to split the audio from a second HDMI output on the x700. And I guess it would be interesting to see how that works and whether somehow the x700 detects the RS540 changing latency modes and then adjusts the audio stream. I might be able to test that (need to rearrange a bunch of cables), and I guess it would demonstrate that the RS540 is doing the right thing switching latency modes.

I debated asking about this here vs in the 4300h discussion. I guess the relevant issue here is if no one else has problems with lip sync not tracking when switching low latency on and off, then I probably need to look at other components in my chain.

Bruce
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post #13804 of 13819 Old 05-22-2020, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce Lowekamp View Post
I’ve been a bit frustrated with lip-sync issues for awhile and decided to try to track down what’s going on.

Right now it seems like audio is synced properly with the RS540 in low latency mode, but otherwise it’s not right (needs to be delayed maybe another 200ms with low latency off).

I had thought this might be because I have a denon 4300 with both my RS540 and an older Optoma DLP plugged into the second zone 1 output (use the Optoma for video games and some TV watching). But last night I unplugged the Optoma, changed the RS540 to low latency on then back off, and still had lip sync problems.

There’s also an HDfury Integral 2 in the path from the 4300 to the RS540, but the problem existed before I added that. I also had it using an Xbox One as the player and still have it with an x700.

So I think I have some issue with lip sync working properly between my 4300h and RS540, but other than switching low latency to off haven’t figured out what it is. Auto lip sync is enabled on the 4300h, and I can fix it manually there, but I’d really like it to work automatically, especially since there are two projectors I use.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Bruce


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I've had the same issue for years i just gave up.. if i set low latency to on i get lip sync delays.. I've kept it off for years now but would love to to turn it on and not get any lip sync delays.. Let me know if you figure it out..
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post #13805 of 13819 Old 05-22-2020, 04:26 PM
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Projector Lamp Woes

Does anyone have a reliable source for the OEM Projector Lamp and Housing? My DLA-X790r lamp is putting out 214 Lux ('Natural' mode, Iris wide open, low lamp mode). That's down from 265 Lux two years ago. I measure with the CA-813 light meter, using the 100 IRE Full White field from the AVS-HD patterns disc. I decided to order a replacement (yes, I'm on Dominc's list for a bare bulb). I ordered from 2 different companies, each claiming to use the "genuine" Ushio Lamp. I've replaced lamps many times on other projectors, so the procedure is not new to me. The first bulb failed after about 10 hours and was RMA'd. I decided to order another lamp/housing from a 2nd company that also offered the Ushio Lamp. Due to my first bulb failure, I decided to check the light output of the 2nd bulb. It output 174 Lux! I contacted the 2nd company and they immediately sent me an RMA. Each of the 2 lamps cost $400-$450 plus shipping. So I'm out the shipping costs since I had to pay to return both bulbs, and had to pay to have the units shipped to me in the first place. I'm out $85 and still don't have a replacement. JVC's Professional Division offers the genuine PK-L2615u for $599 plus shipping. When I replaced the lamp for a RS4810 five years ago it cost $450. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

Good Viewing,John G  JVC DLA-X790 Projector, Vutec 110" (16x9) Bright White Screen, Panasonic DP-UB420, Zappiti Mini4K HDR, Zidoo Z9s, Synology DS418 NAS, Yamaha RX-A2070 AVR, Toshiba 1250 NTSC-PAL Region Free BR Player, 7 Paradigm Reference spkrs w Dual Subs,   & Yamaha 6600 External Amp
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post #13806 of 13819 Old 05-22-2020, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johng View Post
Does anyone have a reliable source for the OEM Projector Lamp and Housing? My DLA-X790r lamp is putting out 214 Lux ('Natural' mode, Iris wide open, low lamp mode). That's down from 265 Lux two years ago. I measure with the CA-813 light meter, using the 100 IRE Full White field from the AVS-HD patterns disc. I decided to order a replacement (yes, I'm on Dominc's list for a bare bulb). I ordered from 2 different companies, each claiming to use the "genuine" Ushio Lamp. I've replaced lamps many times on other projectors, so the procedure is not new to me. The first bulb failed after about 10 hours and was RMA'd. I decided to order another lamp/housing from a 2nd company that also offered the Ushio Lamp. Due to my first bulb failure, I decided to check the light output of the 2nd bulb. It output 174 Lux! I contacted the 2nd company and they immediately sent me an RMA. Each of the 2 lamps cost $400-$450 plus shipping. So I'm out the shipping costs since I had to pay to return both bulbs, and had to pay to have the units shipped to me in the first place. I'm out $85 and still don't have a replacement. JVC's Professional Division offers the genuine PK-L2615u for $599 plus shipping. When I replaced the lamp for a RS4810 five years ago it cost $450. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
I would just bite the bullet and get JVC's Professional Division genuine PK-L2615u for $599 plus shipping. Then keep your old lamp housing for mounting Dominic’s bare bulb, when it comes in. Then you’ll be in good shape for future lamp changes if needed.
And your housings will all be JVC/OEM.

I’ll be in your shoes in a year or so and that’s my plan with my one year old RS540. Hope Dominic still has them for offer by then.
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post #13807 of 13819 Old 05-22-2020, 05:17 PM
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Lens smeared/cloudy

Having just spent some time with this projector today I noticed when the projector is powered up that the lens is very cloudy/smeared in one or two areas. It looked like the lens was just oily so I wiped it down with a soft cloth and the cloudiness disappeared but immediately returned within a few seconds. Looking at it more closely it is clear that this cloudy spot in particular is on the inside of the lens, rather than the outside. Is this normal or should I be exchanging this projector now while it is brand new and not yet installed?
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post #13808 of 13819 Old Yesterday, 07:28 AM
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I re-watched Alien Covenant on 4k HDR bluray last night, and couldn't help but once again appreciate the quality picture the 540 can put out, calibrated.

See ya. Dave

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post #13809 of 13819 Old Yesterday, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyan View Post
Having just spent some time with this projector today I noticed when the projector is powered up that the lens is very cloudy/smeared in one or two areas. It looked like the lens was just oily so I wiped it down with a soft cloth and the cloudiness disappeared but immediately returned within a few seconds. Looking at it more closely it is clear that this cloudy spot in particular is on the inside of the lens, rather than the outside. Is this normal or should I be exchanging this projector now while it is brand new and not yet installed?
This is really confusing. If the cloudiness is on the inside of the lens, why would wiping the outside make it disappear (even if only temporarily)?
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post #13810 of 13819 Old Yesterday, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post

This is really confusing. If the cloudiness is on the inside of the lens, why would wiping the outside make it disappear (even if only temporarily)?
I can’t explain it from a technical standpoint since I’m not a thermodynamicist. Probably something to do with the temperature variance between inside and outside of glass. Since this projector has an automated lens cover I guess you can’t clean the lens unless the projector is powered on and generating heat.

I bought a lens cleaning kit yesterday which alleviated the cloudiness (must have been oil on the outside of the lens that got cloudy and more visible when heated up) but the spot that’s lighter than the rest of the glass that I circled in one photo is still there. I’m guessing it’s just an aberration in the glass that I didn’t notice at first. Having cleaned the lens I don’t think it’s a big issue or would affect picture quality. It’s just annoying because I can’t unsee it now.
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post #13811 of 13819 Old Yesterday, 04:09 PM
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I can’t explain it from a technical standpoint since I’m not a thermodynamicist. Probably something to do with the temperature variance between inside and outside of glass. Since this projector has an automated lens cover I guess you can’t clean the lens unless the projector is powered on and generating heat.

I bought a lens cleaning kit yesterday which alleviated the cloudiness (must have been oil on the outside of the lens that got cloudy and more visible when heated up) but the spot that’s lighter than the rest of the glass that I circled in one photo is still there. I’m guessing it’s just an aberration in the glass that I didn’t notice at first. Having cleaned the lens I don’t think it’s a big issue or would affect picture quality. It’s just annoying because I can’t unsee it now.
For what it’s worth, you CAN clean the lens with the projector powered off. Just change the lens cover setting in the menu to stay open, then power it off and let things cool down. Not sure if you need to do that, but I feel better not cleaning the lens when it’s still hot from use.
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post #13812 of 13819 Old Yesterday, 04:14 PM
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On another note, I’m struggling a bit with doing an autocal gamma calibration. Last time I was tweaking my calibration I noticed that my spyder had set the RGB gamma balance way off in its calibration. When I swapped my factory gamma file back in, the RGB lines were all pretty tight together, following the same curve, but with a bit of a droop. Using the RGB gamma controls allowed me to tweak out gamma droop, but obviously that’s not a great solution for HDR gamma, which will simply go off the internal baseline.

I’ve tried following the guides on how to place the spyder optimally (shadow centered on the screen, with the reflected light just below the projector lens). Any idea what I might be doing wrong with the spyder, or is it normal for it to throw the RGB gamma lines pretty far out of wack?
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post #13813 of 13819 Old Yesterday, 06:19 PM
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or is it normal for it to throw the RGB gamma lines pretty far out of wack?
It’s definitely not normal. To me the biggest reason for running gamma auto cal is to improve the RGB tracking. Errors in tracking are much more noticeable than a “pure” gamma droop.
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post #13814 of 13819 Old Yesterday, 06:39 PM
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It’s definitely not normal. To me the biggest reason for running gamma auto cal is to improve the RGB tracking. Errors in tracking are much more noticeable than a “pure” gamma droop.
What do you think would cause that? Placement error?
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post #13815 of 13819 Old Yesterday, 06:56 PM
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What do you think would cause that? Placement error?
Hard to tell without seeing the log, as a minimum.
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post #13816 of 13819 Old Yesterday, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
Hard to tell without seeing the log, as a minimum.
Touché.

Not gonna have time to pull out the meter and rerun things for a few days, but I’ll get a log.

Is it possible that that error could be caused by the meter shifting slightly during calibration? My tripod is super cheap and I had to put it up on the automan to get it close to the projector lens.
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post #13817 of 13819 Old Today, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by catav View Post
I would just bite the bullet and get JVC's Professional Division genuine PK-L2615u for $599 plus shipping. Then keep your old lamp housing for mounting Dominic’s bare bulb, when it comes in. Then you’ll be in good shape for future lamp changes if needed.
And your housings will all be JVC/OEM.

I’ll be in your shoes in a year or so and that’s my plan with my one year old RS540. Hope Dominic still has them for offer by then.
It looks like buying a new OEM from JVC is the way to go. I'm a bit gunshy after the previous 2 "Genuine Ushio Bulb" assemblies did not perform properly. When I get the new one, I'll give it a 30 minute "burn in", then measure the light output. It better be 20% brighter than my original bulb with 2200 hours on it.

It probably would be a good idea for anyone replacing their bulb to check the light output. As a ballpark figure, I'd expect at least 250 Lumens.
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Good Viewing,John G  JVC DLA-X790 Projector, Vutec 110" (16x9) Bright White Screen, Panasonic DP-UB420, Zappiti Mini4K HDR, Zidoo Z9s, Synology DS418 NAS, Yamaha RX-A2070 AVR, Toshiba 1250 NTSC-PAL Region Free BR Player, 7 Paradigm Reference spkrs w Dual Subs,   & Yamaha 6600 External Amp
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post #13818 of 13819 Old Today, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johng View Post
It looks like buying a new OEM from JVC is the way to go. I'm a bit gunshy after the previous 2 "Genuine Ushio Bulb" assemblies did not perform properly. When I get the new one, I'll give it a 30 minute "burn in", then measure the light output. It better be 20% brighter than my original bulb with 2200 hours on it.

It probably would be a good idea for anyone replacing their bulb to check the light output. As a ballpark figure, I'd expect at least 250 Lumens.
Checking the light output is a good idea as soon as you get the lamp. It seems that there can be a difference in light output even with the Genuine Ushio bulbs. Some of the older ones were not 265W lamps and others might be from different production runs. Dominic has a good source and hopefully he will be able to get them again.

Last edited by rwestley; Today at 08:14 AM.
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post #13819 of 13819 Old Today, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
Hard to tell without seeing the log, as a minimum.
Reran the gamma autocal and took before/after greyscale with my 1D3. The luminance/green seems to track about the same in the factory vs the spyder's calibration, but the red and blue are significantly MORE elevated after calibration. I adjusted my tripod setup so there shouldn't have been any movement during calibration.

Any ideas would be appreciated!

EDIT: Solved it. It was a placement issue. Wasn’t getting the meter sufficiently parallel to the lens.
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