Official Optoma UHZ65 Owners Thread - Page 19 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #541 of 1630 Old 02-18-2018, 10:57 AM
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Hi Dave you must have someone in Optoma that really likes you :-)

Can anyone tel me what the info menu states when sending the vpr a 4:2:0 10 bit hdr signal 24 hz?
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post #542 of 1630 Old 02-18-2018, 08:03 PM
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Anyone have an estimate of the replacement cost for the laser? In case it fails before 20 years and after the warranty of 3 years Runs Out.

I suppose it's a user replaceable module?

-T
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post #543 of 1630 Old 02-18-2018, 11:30 PM
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I have been using the Optoma for some weeks now and I think it is amazing - for 1080P sources. For 4K UHD I'm not that impressed. Light output seems lower and colors looks incorrect. I'm not seeing a big difference in sharpness either. I actually prefer 1080p compared to 4K UHD material on it. I have not calibrated it though but using minor tweaked out of the box settings.

Is this also your impression?

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post #544 of 1630 Old 02-19-2018, 05:55 AM
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Dave would you please PM me the number for Marty M. or Robert S.

Bob
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post #545 of 1630 Old 02-19-2018, 06:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonasHansen View Post
I have been using the Optoma for some weeks now and I think it is amazing - for 1080P sources. For 4K UHD I'm not that impressed. Light output seems lower and colors looks incorrect. I'm not seeing a big difference in sharpness either. I actually prefer 1080p compared to 4K UHD material on it. I have not calibrated it though but using minor tweaked out of the box settings.

Is this also your impression?

No, not at all.

Based on my my experience and research this projector needs a bit more adjustments out of the box than others. Your opinion makes sense for an uncalibrated unit though.
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post #546 of 1630 Old 02-19-2018, 07:23 AM
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Out of curiosity, what was the turnaround time for the firmware update? Additionally, someone early on discussed 'focus drift', I am wondering if there was any resolution to that? I feel like there are times I turn it on and the focus needs to be readjusted.

Keep the good info coming. This projector is still heads and tails above what I was using.

Equipment: Post Lightning Strike: Epson 6050UB, Integra DRX-R1.1, NVidia TV Shield, SI Screens 160" ALR Screen 2.35:1, Panasonic DP-UB9000, Paradigm Signature C3, S4, ADP, Servo Sub, DT 500 rear, Yamaha in ceiling (7.1.4 configuration) [Pre Lightning Strike:Denon AVR-X6400H, NVidia TV Shield, Oppo 203, Optoma Theo Modified UHZ65]
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post #547 of 1630 Old 02-19-2018, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by submarineguy View Post
...... thank you for all of your work, will see how Jumanji goes tonight, I have high hopes and am keeping my fingers crossed.

Bob

I would like to say thank you Bob. A great surprise for me :-)

BR, Ron
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post #548 of 1630 Old 02-19-2018, 11:53 PM
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After many, many months of lurking, I finally pulled the trigger on Saturday night. Every time I buy a new projector, it seems that I need to do more research than when buying a new car... I also tend to spend twice what I planned (I started with the D65.)

This time around was even harder than usual because I could not find a Z65 anywhere to see in advance for myself. I had to buy it sight unseen from a company that I didn't want to buy from (just for their return policy.)

Hope I made the right call. But I wanted to say thank you to everyone on AVS for the wealth of info on an otherwise very under reported projector. I figure if the RBE isn't bad, then the whole firmware situation should be my only major pain point...

Anyway, I'm curious if I need to install a UPS for this puppy? I would need to put it in the unfinished attic, which would not be my first choice. I could not find much info on how these units hold up when faced with a power out and loss of fan cooling. I know (the hard way) that this is often bad news on a mercury lamp model. Can the laser module take getting unplugged and cooked a bit without damage during a power out?
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post #549 of 1630 Old 02-20-2018, 03:03 AM
 
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Official Optoma UHZ65 Owners Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Airbus Driver View Post
Out of curiosity, what was the turnaround time for the firmware update? Additionally, someone early on discussed 'focus drift', I am wondering if there was any resolution to that? I feel like there are times I turn it on and the focus needs to be readjusted.



Keep the good info coming. This projector is still heads and tails above what I was using.

I shipped my projector on a Friday and got it back the following Friday, so for me one week exactly. I had 2 day shipping from them as a dealer though.

The actual turnaround time for them was one day. They got it in Tuesday and updated it and shipped it back Wednesday and it arrived here 2 days later, Friday as I said.

The focusing is most likely caused by the cheaper plastic lens that heats up as it's on. I wouldn't focus it before about half an hour of use, so I suggest you "pre-heat the oven" so to speak before any critical viewing.



Quote:
Originally Posted by submarineguy View Post
Dave would you please PM me the number for Marty M. or Robert S.

Bob

I've always just had email conversations with them. I would think you can call the main Optoma CSR number and ask for one of them. I don't feel comfortable giving their direct extensions away, if it's in their email, on this very public forum unless they OK'd it.
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post #550 of 1630 Old 02-20-2018, 11:29 AM
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@ronny
there are news about the C11 firmware here in Europe, I think you have contacted OPTOMA U.K., have you answered?
I live in Italy
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post #551 of 1630 Old 02-20-2018, 06:00 PM
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UHZ65 Firmware Resolution

All,

I contacted Optoma tonight and received clarification on firmware releases - read whole post before commenting.

C08 Is the latest owners firmware with performance updates
C09 Failed and wasn't released
C10 Failed and wasn't released
C11 Passed and is "technically" the latest firmware update but doesn't address any performance issues.

Basically C11 was created to address certain issues with image generators. Dave/Ronald chime in here if you would. So my interpretation of it is that certain people use certain tools for calibrating (direct plug in to the UHZ) and there was a big enough complaint with a couple of those to warrant an update by Optoma. And yes there was a really small update to DB3. I think that the DB3 was so small that they were not going to do a firmware update for it but.... since they were doing an update for that calibration tool they through in the DB3 update and a couple of OSD updates.

So, for 99% of us C08 is the latest and greatest that we care about and I am not sending my unit back in.

Bob
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post #552 of 1630 Old 02-20-2018, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Bone View Post
Anyone have an estimate of the replacement cost for the laser? In case it fails before 20 years and after the warranty of 3 years Runs Out.

I suppose it's a user replaceable module?

-T
The sky is falling....the sky is falling.

Jack
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post #553 of 1630 Old 02-20-2018, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackB View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Bone View Post
Anyone have an estimate of the replacement cost for the laser? In case it fails before 20 years and after the warranty of 3 years Runs Out.

I suppose it's a user replaceable module?

-T
The sky is falling....the sky is falling.
I don't know what that means :-)

-T
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post #554 of 1630 Old 02-21-2018, 01:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Bone View Post
Anyone have an estimate of the replacement cost for the laser? In case it fails before 20 years and after the warranty of 3 years Runs Out.

I suppose it's a user replaceable module?

-T
This unit is rated to 20k hours. If you turned it on and left it on, you will (on average) get 833 days of 24/7 operation or roughly 2.3 years of use. You may get more, you may get less, it's an average. In any case, for a home unit or periodic corporate use, that's quite a bit of time.

If you used it 8/hrs a day every day, that's 6.8 years of operation. If you are planning to use it more than 8 hrs a day, you need a life. You also need a more expensive laser projector with a longer rating as you are not using this one in the for way for which it was intended. This is a lower end laser unit not designed for hard core 24/7 use.

So the answer to your question about replacing the laser is that you don't. If it breaks under warranty, you send it back to them and they will likely send you a refirb unit. If you have an extended warranty but the manufacturers warranty is out, they will likely either give you a refirb or a credit toward something else if it dies after they are no longer available.

The laser light engine is not user swappable and the part (if even made available) will likely not be cost effective to swap in any case. In short, this is a disposable product once the warranty has expired. Set it and forget it.

You will get at least three years from it and if luck is with you and you treat it right, you should get 6-7 years of non-TV-addict, non-commercial use levels. The concept is that by the time the laser dies, you won't want it anymore anyway because it will be out of date and true/full spectrum HDR laser units (or something even more advanced) will probably be in vogue.
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post #555 of 1630 Old 02-21-2018, 06:50 AM
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In 6 years time we will see vpr as we see today Walkmans.
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post #556 of 1630 Old 02-21-2018, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stefanelli73 View Post
@ronny
there are news about the C11 firmware here in Europe, I think you have contacted OPTOMA U.K., have you answered?
I live in Italy

in Italy you have to contact:

Livolsi Group S.r.l.
Viale Certosa 231/233
20151, Milano (MI)
Italy

[email protected]
+39 02 3008191


Here in Switzerland we have also a sub supplier not an direct optoma contact.
They called Repag Service GmbH in 8600 Dübendorf.

They didn't answer any mail from me.

Also they are answer my questions via phone with counter questions and do not let finish my speaking during the phone call. The worst service I have ever experienced. Absolutely unkindly and incompetently. But that's live. :-)

U.K answer is still open too.


BR, Ron

I think my next projector must have a user friendly firmware procedure (*2018 not stone age) as must have. So I will check other brands beyond optoma. At the moment the customer seems to be a beta tester.

Last edited by RoNNy379CH; 02-21-2018 at 10:37 AM.
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post #557 of 1630 Old 02-21-2018, 10:59 AM
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Today I run a calibration session with the Konica Minolta CL200 Chroma meter only w/o software.


Great surprise - the UHZ65 internal Service menu color re-calibration will work via RS232 interface & CL200.
The same procedure as my backup unit HD90+.



My results via CL200 session:


Image Settings


Mode: reference
Wall Color: off
Dynamic Range: off
Brightness: -1
Contrast: -1
Sharpness: 6
Color: 0
Tint: 0
Gamma: 2.2
Ultradetail: off
Brightness Mode: Laserpower 100% (*after calibration set to DB2)

Color Settings

Brillant Color: 1
Color Temp: D65
Color Gamut: HDTV

CMS

Color / X offset / Y offset / Brightness
White -2 27 0
Red 14 -26 0
Green -36 3 2
Blue 0 11 -14
Cyan 0 16 -1
Yellow -27 -1 -11
Magenta 15 21 -5

RGB Gain/Bias

Red 0 0
Green 0 -1
Blue 0 0

Colorspace: auto


Pure Settings

Pure Contrast: off
Pure Color: off (*after calibration set to 1-2)
Pure Motion: off


*note:

some CMS slider didn't work beyond values -30 / +30 the CL200 have a LCD matrix which shows the realtime values.

*note II:

the fastest way to jump out of all sub menus is to 2xtimes press the mute button on the remote.

Last edited by RoNNy379CH; 02-21-2018 at 11:05 AM.
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post #558 of 1630 Old 02-21-2018, 12:40 PM
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Thanks for the reply ..... here in Italy my dealer has already contacted OPTOMA Italy, but they know nothing, I thought that since you had contacted OPTOMA U.K., I already knew something about the new firmware.
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post #559 of 1630 Old 02-22-2018, 02:37 PM
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I'm absolutely shocked about the performance of the Spectracal C6HDR2000 meter.

My new Konica Minolta CL200 chroma meter plays in a total different league. Its unbelievable how bad the C6 is.


I tested with the same conditions, parameters etc.


C6HDR2000 vs CL200

RUN 01

C6HDR2000

Click image for larger version

Name:	001.jpg
Views:	140
Size:	212.5 KB
ID:	2365244

CL200

Click image for larger version

Name:	001b.jpg
Views:	120
Size:	210.1 KB
ID:	2365246



RUN 02

C6HDR2000

Click image for larger version

Name:	002.jpg
Views:	78
Size:	227.0 KB
ID:	2365248

CL200

Click image for larger version

Name:	002b.jpg
Views:	86
Size:	221.1 KB
ID:	2365250



RUN 03

C6HDR2000

Click image for larger version

Name:	003.jpg
Views:	63
Size:	252.8 KB
ID:	2365252

CL200

Click image for larger version

Name:	003b.jpg
Views:	87
Size:	248.5 KB
ID:	2365254


So now its time to rerun all calibrations again - the CL200 was the best invest so far.


and here my yesterdays naked eye CL200 (left side) only run

vs.

todays CL200 & Calman run. (right side)


Click image for larger version

Name:	yesterday.jpg
Views:	220
Size:	198.4 KB
ID:	2365258


and last but not least the new settings for the UHZ65 - looks amazing now.

Image Settings

Mode: reference
Wall Color: off
Dynamic Range: off
Brightness: 0
Contrast: -1
Sharpness: 6
Color: 0
Tint: 0
Gamma: 2.2
Ultradetail: off
Brightness Mode: Laserpower 100%

Color Settings

Brillant Color: 1
Color Temp: D65
Color Gamut: HDTV

CMS

Color / X offset / Y offset / Brightness
White 12 34 0
Red 19 -22-8
Green -1 -11 -8
Blue 0 11 -21
Cyan 11 18 -2
Yellow -12 0 -6
Magenta 18 19 -1

RGB Gain/Bias


Red 0 0
Green 0 0
Blue 0 0

Colorspace: auto


Pure Settings

Pure Contrast: off
Pure Color: off
Pure Motion: off


BR, Ron
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post #560 of 1630 Old 02-22-2018, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoNNy379CH View Post
I'm absolutely shocked about the performance of the Spectracal C6HDR2000 meter.

My new Konica Minolta CL200 chroma meter plays in a total different league. Its unbelievable how bad the C6 is.


I tested with the same conditions, parameters etc.


C6HDR2000 vs CL200

RUN 01

C6HDR2000

Attachment 2365244

CL200

Attachment 2365246



RUN 02

C6HDR2000

Attachment 2365248

CL200

Attachment 2365250



RUN 03

C6HDR2000

Attachment 2365252

CL200

Attachment 2365254


So now its time to rerun all calibrations again - the CL200 was the best invest so far.


and here my yesterdays naked eye CL200 (left side) only run

vs.

todays CL200 & Calman run. (right side)


Attachment 2365258


and last but not least the new settings for the UHZ65 - looks amazing now.

Image Settings

Mode: reference
Wall Color: off
Dynamic Range: off
Brightness: 0
Contrast: -1
Sharpness: 6
Color: 0
Tint: 0
Gamma: 2.2
Ultradetail: off
Brightness Mode: Laserpower 100%

Color Settings

Brillant Color: 1
Color Temp: D65
Color Gamut: HDTV

CMS

Color / X offset / Y offset / Brightness
White 12 34 0
Red 19 -22-8
Green -1 -11 -8
Blue 0 11 -21
Cyan 11 18 -2
Yellow -12 0 -6
Magenta 18 19 -1

RGB Gain/Bias


Red 0 0
Green 0 0
Blue 0 0

Colorspace: auto


Pure Settings

Pure Contrast: off
Pure Color: off
Pure Motion: off


BR, Ron
This is really nice! I am using it at 65% power (I know this is not calibrated for that brightness level) but for the first time I was able to use Dynamic Black 2 without any "pumping". I have only watched one Netflix show at the moment, but so far I am really impressed!

Thank you and congratulations on that new meter!

Edit: I turn down the brightness slider to increase the contrast. With these settings (at 65% and DB2) it really works nicely. I am at -6 at the moment. I am really enjoying these settings!

Update: For darker material, bumping up the power level works nicely, all the way up to 100. I am sure that the calibration may not be perfect as you ramp the power down, but it does not seem to drift much to my eyes. Nicely done sir!
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Last edited by DigitalGrease; 02-22-2018 at 06:24 PM.
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post #561 of 1630 Old 02-22-2018, 05:41 PM
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Thank you Ronny!

Will try and take a look at these tonight.

Bob
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post #562 of 1630 Old 02-22-2018, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoNNy379CH View Post
Dynamic Range: off
Why not set the Dynamic Range as Auto?
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post #563 of 1630 Old 02-22-2018, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoreyHawke View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Bone View Post
Anyone have an estimate of the replacement cost for the laser? In case it fails before 20 years and after the warranty of 3 years Runs Out.

I suppose it's a user replaceable module?

-T
This unit is rated to 20k hours. If you turned it on and left it on, you will (on average) get 833 days of 24/7 operation or roughly 2.3 years of use. You may get more, you may get less, it's an average. In any case, for a home unit or periodic corporate use, that's quite a bit of time.

If you used it 8/hrs a day every day, that's 6.8 years of operation. If you are planning to use it more than 8 hrs a day, you need a life. You also need a more expensive laser projector with a longer rating as you are not using this one in the for way for which it was intended. This is a lower end laser unit not designed for hard core 24/7 use.

So the answer to your question about replacing the laser is that you don't. If it breaks under warranty, you send it back to them and they will likely send you a refirb unit. If you have an extended warranty but the manufacturers warranty is out, they will likely either give you a refirb or a credit toward something else if it dies after they are no longer available.

The laser light engine is not user swappable and the part (if even made available) will likely not be cost effective to swap in any case. In short, this is a disposable product once the warranty has expired. Set it and forget it.

You will get at least three years from it and if luck is with you and you treat it right, you should get 6-7 years of non-TV-addict, non-commercial use levels. The concept is that by the time the laser dies, you won't want it anymore anyway because it will be out of date and true/full spectrum HDR laser units (or something even more advanced) will probably be in vogue.
Thanks for the reply. And I did make a mistake that you caught. I meant to say 20,000 hours and not 20 years.

I guess my main concern was to look at the light subsystem pretty much like a compact fluorescent. Yeah, those CFL bulbs are supposed to last 7 years. But I had some die much much sooner than that. So defects happen.

If the electronics truly are disposable, or if the laser unit is so expensive that it doesn't make sense to repair, I have to scratch my head I'm wondering if laser projectors are ready yet.

I'm not ready to purchase. I just purchased a projector I'm happy with. I was wondering about it.

-T
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post #564 of 1630 Old 02-22-2018, 09:07 PM
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About dynamic black I think there is a misunderstanding about its interaction with the laser power. I have done a few tests and found that if you apply 50% light output when you switch on DB you see a jump up in brightness. The closer you go to 100% the less the jump is visible. The same can be done going back from 100 to 50% using a dark image. The lower you go the less the picture darkens. Moreover, if you enter the projectors web browser menu under the Brightness setting you have all the power settings gs and DB, so I am pretty convinced that once you engage DB the power setting is ignored as light output is adjusted based on the image brightness.
One more fact that seems to prove my speculation is that on Optoma Asia Web site under specifications you find the expected life span of the laser which is 15000 h with DB 10000 h in eco and 4000 in high brightness. In the Italian thread about the Uhz there are speculations that Optoma just did a copy and paste of the UHD specifications, but the UHD to my knowledge does not have a dynamic black function. Any thoughts?
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post #565 of 1630 Old 02-24-2018, 04:56 PM
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Thank you again for your tireless work finding best settings for calibration. These are the best settings to date. I don't know if this is an indication of "success" in calibration or not, but for months I have been suffering severe color banding using my Roku Ultra. These settings have eliminated it.That alone is excellent in addition to picture quality.
Thank you,
Joe




Image Settings

Mode: reference
Wall Color: off
Dynamic Range: off
Brightness: 0
Contrast: -1
Sharpness: 6
Color: 0
Tint: 0
Gamma: 2.2
Ultradetail: off
Brightness Mode: Laserpower 100%

Color Settings

Brillant Color: 1
Color Temp: D65
Color Gamut: HDTV

CMS

Color / X offset / Y offset / Brightness
White 12 34 0
Red 19 -22-8
Green -1 -11 -8
Blue 0 11 -21
Cyan 11 18 -2
Yellow -12 0 -6
Magenta 18 19 -1

RGB Gain/Bias

Red 0 0
Green 0 0
Blue 0 0

Colorspace: auto


Pure Settings

Pure Contrast: off
Pure Color: off
Pure Motion: off


BR, Ron[/QUOTE]
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post #566 of 1630 Old 02-24-2018, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airbus Driver View Post
Thank you again for your tireless work finding best settings for calibration. These are the best settings to date. I don't know if this is an indication of "success" in calibration or not, but for months I have been suffering severe color banding using my Roku Ultra. These settings have eliminated it.That alone is excellent in addition to picture quality.
Thank you,
Joe




Image Settings

Mode: reference
Wall Color: off
Dynamic Range: off
Brightness: 0
Contrast: -1
Sharpness: 6
Color: 0
Tint: 0
Gamma: 2.2
Ultradetail: off
Brightness Mode: Laserpower 100%

Color Settings

Brillant Color: 1
Color Temp: D65
Color Gamut: HDTV

CMS

Color / X offset / Y offset / Brightness
White 12 34 0
Red 19 -22-8
Green -1 -11 -8
Blue 0 11 -21
Cyan 11 18 -2
Yellow -12 0 -6
Magenta 18 19 -1

RGB Gain/Bias

Red 0 0
Green 0 0
Blue 0 0

Colorspace: auto


Pure Settings

Pure Contrast: off
Pure Color: off
Pure Motion: off


BR, Ron
[/QUOTE]
thank you Ronny , I can live with your last SDR settings now, but I turn on pure color and pure contrast for more popup pictures
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post #567 of 1630 Old 02-25-2018, 11:16 AM
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Hi @ all,


A cheap tweak.

Today I optimize the UHZ65 lens light surrounding.
I'm wondering on my backup HD90+ no light went, reflecting through the lens surround - only the small picture square.

Because I have only a living room cinema and white walls, ceilings everything is reflecting a little bit.


before my optimizations

Click image for larger version

Name:	001a before.jpg
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ID:	2366586
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ID:	2366588
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ID:	2366590


after my optimizations

Click image for larger version

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ID:	2366592
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ID:	2366594
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ID:	2366596


how to
Click image for larger version

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ID:	2366606
I took the lens cover and made a paper pattern.

Click image for larger version

Name:	003a Paperfit.jpg
Views:	304
Size:	80.3 KB
ID:	2366600

After this I check the fitting and throw a picture thru the paper to took the max. light window output dimensions.

Click image for larger version

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ID:	2366602
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ID:	2366604

than I cut the window in and transfer self adhesive light absorbing soft masking foil to both sides.

Click image for larger version

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Views:	255
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ID:	2366608

Click image for larger version

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ID:	2366610

finally a small grasp

Click image for larger version

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ID:	2366612

and finished

Click image for larger version

Name:	006 final.jpg
Views:	339
Size:	89.6 KB
ID:	2366614


All reflecting lights are gone now. With no visible deflections around the picture it looking better now for me.

Last edited by RoNNy379CH; 02-25-2018 at 11:37 AM.
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post #568 of 1630 Old 02-25-2018, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoNNy379CH View Post
Hi @ all,


A cheap tweak.

Today I optimize the UHZ65 lens light surrounding.
I'm wondering on my backup HD90+ no light went, reflecting through the lens surround - only the small picture square.

Because I have only a living room cinema and white walls, ceilings everything is reflecting a little bit.


before my optimizations

Attachment 2366586
Attachment 2366588
Attachment 2366590


after my optimizations

Attachment 2366592
Attachment 2366594
Attachment 2366596


how to
Attachment 2366606
I took the lens cover and made a paper pattern.

Attachment 2366600

After this I check the fitting and throw a picture thru the paper to took the max. light window output dimensions.

Attachment 2366602
Attachment 2366604

than I cut the window in and transfer self adhesive light absorbing soft masking foil to both sides.

Attachment 2366608

Attachment 2366610

finally a small grasp

Attachment 2366612

and finished

Attachment 2366614


All reflecting lights are gone now. With no visible deflections around the picture it looking better now for me.
Perhaps this would work for all of the new .47 projectors that have the problem with the large gray borders. It might take a few attempts to get it just right but why not give it a try? Is there any issue with heat at the lens surface area?

Jack
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post #569 of 1630 Old 02-25-2018, 09:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoNNy379CH View Post
Hi @ all,


A cheap tweak.

Today I optimize the UHZ65 lens light surrounding.
I'm wondering on my backup HD90+ no light went, reflecting through the lens surround - only the small picture square.

Because I have only a living room cinema and white walls, ceilings everything is reflecting a little bit.

I took the lens cover and made a paper pattern.


After this I check the fitting and throw a picture thru the paper to took the max. light window output dimensions.


than I cut the window in and transfer self adhesive light absorbing soft masking foil to both sides.


finally a small grasp


All reflecting lights are gone now. With no visible deflections around the picture it looking better now for me.
You are a very clever man!!!!
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post #570 of 1630 Old 02-26-2018, 05:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by submarineguy View Post
All,

I contacted Optoma tonight and received clarification on firmware releases - read whole post before commenting.

C08 Is the latest owners firmware with performance updates
C09 Failed and wasn't released
C10 Failed and wasn't released
C11 Passed and is "technically" the latest firmware update but doesn't address any performance issues.

Basically C11 was created to address certain issues with image generators. Dave/Ronald chime in here if you would. So my interpretation of it is that certain people use certain tools for calibrating (direct plug in to the UHZ) and there was a big enough complaint with a couple of those to warrant an update by Optoma. And yes there was a really small update to DB3. I think that the DB3 was so small that they were not going to do a firmware update for it but.... since they were doing an update for that calibration tool they through in the DB3 update and a couple of OSD updates.

So, for 99% of us C08 is the latest and greatest that we care about and I am not sending my unit back in.

Bob
I wanted to say thank you for the info on the Firmware revisions. I'm working with my dealer to have my unit replaced and to make sure that it has the latest version. C07 has a number of bugs that really mess up the performance on my unit, especially the HDR.

I'm hoping to have it shipped out in the next day or two and will keep the thread updated with anything interesting.
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