JVC bulb: PK-L2210U vs PK-L2210UP -what is the difference? - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 14 Old 08-08-2018, 02:14 PM - Thread Starter
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JVC bulb: PK-L2210U vs PK-L2210UP -what is the difference?

Hi guys.


My X30 started flashing the "Lamp" LED tonight, while power and warning are constant on. So it is time to get a new bulb.


I have found that there are 2 models out there apparently: PK-L2210U and PK-L2210UP


What is the difference and which one should I go for??

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post #2 of 14 Old 08-08-2018, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Webmonkey View Post
Hi guys.


My X30 started flashing the "projector" LED tonight, while power and warning are constant on. So it is time to get a new bulb.


I have found that there are 2 models out there apparently: PK-L2210U and PK-L2210UP


What is the difference and which one should I go for??
The difference is one has a "U" on the box and the other has a "P" on the box. Same lamp. The one with "P" on the end are sold by Reference Series dealers. Buy which ever one you can get cheaper.
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post #3 of 14 Old 08-09-2018, 01:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks.




- anyone has experience with these guys: https://www.myprojectorlamps.eu/proj...s/JVC/X30.html ??
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post #4 of 14 Old 08-15-2018, 11:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Webmonkey View Post
Thanks.

- anyone has experience with these guys: https://www.myprojectorlamps.eu/proj...s/JVC/X30.html ??
They are selling own-brand lamps, not genuine JVC parts. And not that cheap either.

here is a link to a japan store for a genuine JVC lamp. This is not much use to you directly as they won't ship; but shows you what kind of price you should be able to get a real lamp for (it will be more in europe due to taxes and import costs.)

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post #5 of 14 Old 08-16-2018, 04:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Purple X View Post
They are selling own-brand lamps, not genuine JVC parts. And not that cheap either.

here is a link to a japan store for a genuine JVC lamp. This is not much use to you directly as they won't ship; but shows you what kind of price you should be able to get a real lamp for (it will be more in europe due to taxes and import costs.)

well, they claim that the bulb is of Philips or Osram origin. That should be OK, right???
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post #6 of 14 Old 08-19-2018, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Webmonkey View Post
well, they claim that the bulb is of Philips or Osram origin. That should be OK, right???

Philips and Osram are the only companies making the bulbs. There are companies out there that don't really check the bulb, or sell unis that failed JVC QA standards. There are reports here in this forum of people buying OEM units that are worse than the old lamp they are replacing. Buyer beware.

Oh the other hand it might be all OK. If it is a re-manufactured unit with a tested bulb then its OK. But they don't say that on their site. There is a company in japan that sells re-manufactured... there pricing is substantially less. I havn't used them since JVC parts are not so expensive here

I'm just saying that you should be able to get a real JVC tested lamp for around the money they are charging. Usually OEM prices are much less than what this site is charging. I would first ask a dealer what they can do price wise; and if they can't help then buy from a place with a good return policy.
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post #7 of 14 Old 08-20-2018, 12:09 PM
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That bulb is the easiest to find out of all the JVC's...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/JVC-PK-L221...item1a0103a4aa

The above is the real bulb, I have bought 3 of them and they all worked great.

I have measured each one with a light meter and they have (on avg) lasted exactly the same as the original / official JVC bulbs (I had 2 officials).
Note that the JVC bulbs for this period are very poor quality in general, but it's not because of the seller above.

On average, the JVC bulb will last 1000-2000 hours (usually 1500) before going bad or dimming severely. That is if you always run your projector in high altitude mode and lamp low.
Running any of the RS 40/45/55/65 year bulbs in high will greatly increase your chances of a bulb exploding.

A price in Yen on a website isn't the real price people pay, it depends on volume. Most of the Ebay sellers buying these bulbs are buying them at 100+ at a time.
There are boatloads of fake bulbs on ebay (the big scam is selling used ones), but the above works fine.

If anyone happens to get a bad bulb from the above seller, it's a fluke.
I know another person in the real world that has bought 2 of those bulbs and others on the forum have also gone through 2-3 of them.
We have more than 10 samples from the same place and they all worked fine.
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post #8 of 14 Old 08-23-2018, 03:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Purple X View Post
Philips and Osram are the only companies making the bulbs. There are companies out there that don't really check the bulb, or sell unis that failed JVC QA standards. There are reports here in this forum of people buying OEM units that are worse than the old lamp they are replacing. Buyer beware.

Oh the other hand it might be all OK. If it is a re-manufactured unit with a tested bulb then its OK. But they don't say that on their site. There is a company in japan that sells re-manufactured... there pricing is substantially less. I havn't used them since JVC parts are not so expensive here

I'm just saying that you should be able to get a real JVC tested lamp for around the money they are charging. Usually OEM prices are much less than what this site is charging. I would first ask a dealer what they can do price wise; and if they can't help then buy from a place with a good return policy.



I got an original from my X30 dealer at at price premium of 50% over the one listed on the site in my post. Happy. All working again.
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post #9 of 14 Old 08-23-2018, 03:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post
That bulb is the easiest to find out of all the JVC's...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/JVC-PK-L221...item1a0103a4aa

The above is the real bulb, I have bought 3 of them and they all worked great.

I have measured each one with a light meter and they have (on avg) lasted exactly the same as the original / official JVC bulbs (I had 2 officials).
Note that the JVC bulbs for this period are very poor quality in general, but it's not because of the seller above.

On average, the JVC bulb will last 1000-2000 hours (usually 1500) before going bad or dimming severely. That is if you always run your projector in high altitude mode and lamp low.
Running any of the RS 40/45/55/65 year bulbs in high will greatly increase your chances of a bulb exploding.

A price in Yen on a website isn't the real price people pay, it depends on volume. Most of the Ebay sellers buying these bulbs are buying them at 100+ at a time.
There are boatloads of fake bulbs on ebay (the big scam is selling used ones), but the above works fine.

If anyone happens to get a bad bulb from the above seller, it's a fluke.
I know another person in the real world that has bought 2 of those bulbs and others on the forum have also gone through 2-3 of them.
We have more than 10 samples from the same place and they all worked fine.

Exploding???


This last bulb lasted me 2052H incl. a lot of 3D play in high mode. The previous (the only included with my X30, without the "flap") lived about 2250 with a little 3D.
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post #10 of 14 Old 04-10-2019, 06:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post
That bulb is the easiest to find out of all the JVC's...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/JVC-PK-L221...item1a0103a4aa

The above is the real bulb, I have bought 3 of them and they all worked great.

I have measured each one with a light meter and they have (on avg) lasted exactly the same as the original / official JVC bulbs (I had 2 officials).
Note that the JVC bulbs for this period are very poor quality in general, but it's not because of the seller above.

On average, the JVC bulb will last 1000-2000 hours (usually 1500) before going bad or dimming severely. That is if you always run your projector in high altitude mode and lamp low.
Running any of the RS 40/45/55/65 year bulbs in high will greatly increase your chances of a bulb exploding.

A price in Yen on a website isn't the real price people pay, it depends on volume. Most of the Ebay sellers buying these bulbs are buying them at 100+ at a time.
There are boatloads of fake bulbs on ebay (the big scam is selling used ones), but the above works fine.

If anyone happens to get a bad bulb from the above seller, it's a fluke.
I know another person in the real world that has bought 2 of those bulbs and others on the forum have also gone through 2-3 of them.
We have more than 10 samples from the same place and they all worked fine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Webmonkey View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post
That bulb is the easiest to find out of all the JVC's...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/JVC-PK-L221...item1a0103a4aa

The above is the real bulb, I have bought 3 of them and they all worked great.

I have measured each one with a light meter and they have (on avg) lasted exactly the same as the original / official JVC bulbs (I had 2 officials).
Note that the JVC bulbs for this period are very poor quality in general, but it's not because of the seller above.

On average, the JVC bulb will last 1000-2000 hours (usually 1500) before going bad or dimming severely. That is if you always run your projector in high altitude mode and lamp low.
Running any of the RS 40/45/55/65 year bulbs in high will greatly increase your chances of a bulb exploding.

A price in Yen on a website isn't the real price people pay, it depends on volume. Most of the Ebay sellers buying these bulbs are buying them at 100+ at a time.
There are boatloads of fake bulbs on ebay (the big scam is selling used ones), but the above works fine.

If anyone happens to get a bad bulb from the above seller, it's a fluke.
I know another person in the real world that has bought 2 of those bulbs and others on the forum have also gone through 2-3 of them.
We have more than 10 samples from the same place and they all worked fine.

Exploding??? [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/eek.gif[/IMG][IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/eek.gif[/IMG][IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/eek.gif[/IMG]


This last bulb lasted me 2052H incl. a lot of 3D play in high mode. The previous (the only included with my X30, without the "flap") lived about 2250 with a little 3D.
Hi
I also bought a "genuine philips" bulb from this reseller.
When it was time for replacement about 1year after buying it i contacted the seller and asked:
1. how to connect it as it does not have the small glass tube like the original osram has. See attached images which glass tube with an electrode inside i mean.
It seems like some kind of pre ignitor which might be helpful for something,maybe to resolve the blown ballast board issues they had on the x3? Anyone knows, chime in and tell me 🙂

2. I also wondered if it matters which cable goes to which post (aka is there any positive or negative)

3. If they can guarantee that the lamp will work and wont destroy my projector?

After several eBay messages back and forth i got answers.
1. Glass tube not needed.
2. Does not matter since its a AC lamp (thought this sounded strange as there is still an anode and cathode on mercury lamps)
3. No, they could not guarantee. No reason why, basically just saying out of warranty time. Ok, i kind of get that one, but would be nice to hear that the bulb was still a proper fit for my PJ which they also could not say any more even after they found my order based on order nr.

Anyway, i connect the sellers "original Philips" lamp as the osram original having the lead going to the rear of the bulb on the same cable on the new one, guessing the cathode / anode placement was always "lamp rear entry" /"reflector skirt" screw terminals.
Started up and it was PLENTY BRIGHT (my old original had 6000h on it...crazy dim, so that might be the reason why i felt that way).
Ran it about 50hours or so and then one day wanted more brightness due to sun leaking in so turned to HIGH lamp mode.
After about 30minutes it smelled like burning plastic/electronics. I searched everywhere for the smell (AV pre amp, Amp, HTPC) and as last step took out a ladder and climbed up to JVC DLA-X35 and smelled at the exhaust vent. OUCH that was it defenitely as a strong smell of plastic burning came out of the front vents. Imediatelly turned of PJ and allowed it to cool down as normal

Made a full tear down and found the reason, you can see this thread on AV forums (my post is the latter one on page 2 with a detailed description with images under Boogieman).
https://www.avforums.com/threads/jvc...2126897/page-2

So as of now I dont know if the issue arose due to fairly clogged fans, the lamp or a combination (the retractable bottom filter was 100% clean so not that for sure). I just know that JVC filter system is A JOKE. Zero rear intake filter (unless you count the coarse metal net in the chassis lol) for lamp and power/PCB section and a "mosquito catcher" filter for the optics (the bottom side extractable one). How did they think?

I just know that I will probably buy a OEM now even with many hours left on this lamp. Until then i run it in low lamp mode and high altitude setting to make sure pj optics are properly cooled.

Also i will try to find a high flow filter with better filtration as i DO NOT want to redo this teardown and current JVC 4k alternatives are too expensive based on difference in quality in image. I was recently on a showdown of the N6 and i cant say its worth more than 2* the price of the x35. It seems like they changed filters to some coars foam filter though so that might be a important improvement 🙂

Best regards
Boogieman
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Livingroom: JVC DLA-X30 @ 4m wide curved 2.35:1 Studiotek
Marantz AV7702, Primare A30.7 + Emotiva XPA-5, Oppo BDP-93,PS-3,HTPC, Samsung digital box
JBL TiK Sub, Ti6K, Ti2K, Ti1K, XTi20, XTi10, REL Q150E
Bedroom: Pioneer KRP-500M, Denon AVR3805
QLN 603,601MK2,Wharfdale DFS

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post #11 of 14 Old 12-03-2019, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [Europe]Boogiem View Post
Hi
I also bought a "genuine philips" bulb from this reseller.
When it was time for replacement about 1year after buying it i contacted the seller and asked:
1. how to connect it as it does not have the small glass tube like the original osram has. See attached images which glass tube with an electrode inside i mean.
It seems like some kind of pre ignitor which might be helpful for something,maybe to resolve the blown ballast board issues they had on the x3? Anyone knows, chime in and tell me 🙂

2. I also wondered if it matters which cable goes to which post (aka is there any positive or negative)

3. If they can guarantee that the lamp will work and wont destroy my projector?

After several eBay messages back and forth i got answers.
1. Glass tube not needed.
2. Does not matter since its a AC lamp (thought this sounded strange as there is still an anode and cathode on mercury lamps)
3. No, they could not guarantee. No reason why, basically just saying out of warranty time. Ok, i kind of get that one, but would be nice to hear that the bulb was still a proper fit for my PJ which they also could not say any more even after they found my order based on order nr.

Anyway, i connect the sellers "original Philips" lamp as the osram original having the lead going to the rear of the bulb on the same cable on the new one, guessing the cathode / anode placement was always "lamp rear entry" /"reflector skirt" screw terminals.
Started up and it was PLENTY BRIGHT (my old original had 6000h on it...crazy dim, so that might be the reason why i felt that way).
Ran it about 50hours or so and then one day wanted more brightness due to sun leaking in so turned to HIGH lamp mode.
After about 30minutes it smelled like burning plastic/electronics. I searched everywhere for the smell (AV pre amp, Amp, HTPC) and as last step took out a ladder and climbed up to JVC DLA-X35 and smelled at the exhaust vent. OUCH that was it defenitely as a strong smell of plastic burning came out of the front vents. Imediatelly turned of PJ and allowed it to cool down as normal

Made a full tear down and found the reason, you can see this thread on AV forums (my post is the latter one on page 2 with a detailed description with images under Boogieman).
https://www.avforums.com/threads/jvc...2126897/page-2

So as of now I dont know if the issue arose due to fairly clogged fans, the lamp or a combination (the retractable bottom filter was 100% clean so not that for sure). I just know that JVC filter system is A JOKE. Zero rear intake filter (unless you count the coarse metal net in the chassis lol) for lamp and power/PCB section and a "mosquito catcher" filter for the optics (the bottom side extractable one). How did they think?

I just know that I will probably buy a OEM now even with many hours left on this lamp. Until then i run it in low lamp mode and high altitude setting to make sure pj optics are properly cooled.

Also i will try to find a high flow filter with better filtration as i DO NOT want to redo this teardown and current JVC 4k alternatives are too expensive based on difference in quality in image. I was recently on a showdown of the N6 and i cant say its worth more than 2* the price of the x35. It seems like they changed filters to some coars foam filter though so that might be a important improvement 🙂

Best regards
Boogieman

NOTE TO SELF regarding the "philips lamp" ABOVE from "discount-merchant-dlp-lamps" on eBay

- Lamp lasted 1100 hours in low lamp mode before "lamp led" on DLA-x30 started flashing 2times cyclic.
- Lamp actually lights up, but then short there after the lamp led flash 2 times cyclic.
- The 2 first days (attempts) the projector could be re-started again and watch several hours of movies. Simply unplug power and reconnect and start PJ again.
- After 2 first days lamp mode was set to high when watching. The following day - see below (aka not starting could be related to switch to high lamp mode + the fact it was already on the verge)
- After 2 days (2-4 lamp ignitions after first issue seen) the lamp goes dark 1-2 seconds after image appears on screen with 2 time flashing lamp led (cyclic).
- Obviously lamp is "working" / "can light up shortly" (visual check also show no issues like blown lamp), but the 2 blink means either "lamp door open" or "lamp turned off during projection" and lamp door is closed, so likely the lamp fails to report correct ohm-age when it TRIES TO ignite 100% making the projector interpret it as a broken lamp (open circuit or shortcut) (the pre iginition works fine - lamp increase gradually - its just the final ignition to 100% that only work for 1-2 seconds before ERROR appear)

- Lamp time above (1100h) was measured after total dust cleaning of the projector as the lamp originally burned a plastic element inside the PJ (the Philips "original" lamp above likely ran hotter than Osram OEM + fans inside PJ were quite dusty which was noted after the "burn damage" of the element in the light path. The "burn" happened very quickly after above lamp replaced the worn out OEM.

- Pros:
Price around 100€ inc delivery (OEM around 400€ in Sweden)
Plenty bright (maybe even brighter than Osram original - hard to say though as the Osram was at 6000h when changing )
Did not explode
- Cons:
Probably the reason to burnt internal plastic filter of PJ (maybe higher wattage than it should be - could explain birghtness?)
Only lasted 1100hours before lamp led start flashing (unless ballast has blow - during those 1100h? We will see with next lamp if it starts properly. Have run PJ around 8-9 000 in total so in that case its a strange coincidence that ballast blows with after market lamp - when PJ is totally clean for the first time since purchase)

Decision for future based on my own experience (though coder guy has a different experience than me it seems - so keep that in mind)
AVOID aftermarket lamps if PJ is new / meant to be kept
Be aware that above lamp could damage your old PJ (and if so - spare parts damaged are non existent, so You need to use your crafting skills)

Livingroom: JVC DLA-X30 @ 4m wide curved 2.35:1 Studiotek
Marantz AV7702, Primare A30.7 + Emotiva XPA-5, Oppo BDP-93,PS-3,HTPC, Samsung digital box
JBL TiK Sub, Ti6K, Ti2K, Ti1K, XTi20, XTi10, REL Q150E
Bedroom: Pioneer KRP-500M, Denon AVR3805
QLN 603,601MK2,Wharfdale DFS

Last edited by [Europe]Boogiem; 12-03-2019 at 03:28 PM.
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post #12 of 14 Old 12-03-2019, 04:00 PM
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Running any lamp on HIGH with the older JVC's is a recipe for disaster, never do it for more than 3 seconds.
It will usually overheat the lamp. Sometimes you can get away with doing this for many many hours, but it will make the lamp fail prematurely due to faulty JVC design on this projector.

The Philips lamps were really good at first, but the last few I had didn't last very long.
I had the same longevity problem as you (but not burning issues - didn't run mine in high), but given the cost, 1000 hours isn't that bad, I think the shortest one of mine lived was 800 hours.

Osram lamps run hotter than the Philips in my experience, the Osrams are also more likely to explode.
That said, the Osram lamps are (on average) brighter, but if you are going to buy an Osram lamp, get the original from a cert'd dealer is better.
The first few Philips lamps I had were actually almost as bright as the Osrams, but the quality has gone down on the Philips recently.
The Osram lamps floating around in the third party market, like many other lamps, are often from returns or buybacks unfortunately.

At the moment, the best lamps are probably the original Osram dealer-certified brand new, but even though they are brighter, they are VERY likely to explode after about 1000-1500 hours.
The problem is they are 4x to 6x the cost, so really it's not worth it. So even if you are just buying 2-4 of these lamps in the long run, it's better to just buy a USED JVC RS-46 (cheaper) than buying these lamps over and over again. That's why it doesn't matter at this point even if we did ruin our projectors buying third-party lamps, our projectors are not worth enough to be buying the original lamps.

I'm on my 8th lamp and have had 2 Osram explode, there is nothing wrong with my ballast.
The Philips works correctly, it is the JVC shutting off the lamp because it is outside of the nominal accepted ranges, so it's not going to hurt the ballast, some generics can.

Per the Osram, the Osram will explode without warning (no prior shutdowns), but the Philips causing the projector to shut off after 800 hours is not ballast related, it's just the way that lamp wears out.
No-one has reported a Ballast issue that I know of from running a Philips lamp, the Ballast issues are from running other generic type lamps mainly.

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Last edited by coderguy; 12-03-2019 at 04:36 PM.
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post #13 of 14 Old 12-03-2019, 04:33 PM
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You could theoretically fix the problem by carving an outlet in the lamp module and the cover, and adding a third party fan.
I have never tried it and the projector might detect an error if you did that. The lamp is just running too hot.

As you noted, dust build-up in the fan due to a poor fan path design is part of the problem, the design should have been angled and a dust trap should have existed that forced the dust downward.
That is one design I have seen in other electronics which allows dust to collect harmlessly (the air itself forces the dust to be blown into a recessed trap), the issue is it requires more Fan CFM to maintain proper airflow.
However, there is no question the fault in the JVC design was the cooling of the lamp, as well as the detection circuitry is not perfect for when a lamp is not running correctly, and the ballast design also appears to be poor.

So 3 issues, solving one may allow the lamps to last a long time, who knows.

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post #14 of 14 Old 12-03-2019, 04:38 PM
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If you got 6000 hours out of your original lamp, then I just don't know what to even say.
I don't know anyone else that was getting these kind of high hours on this projector.

In the old days of the forums, almost everyone was having the same problem, mass dimming after about 800-1200 hours (and that was on the original OEM lamps that came with the projector).
Perhaps because you are in Europe, you received a different quality of Osram lamp due to some govt regulation, who knows.

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