Official Sony VPL-VW295ES Owners Thread - Page 28 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #811 of 918 Old 11-26-2019, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archibald1 View Post

Okay, so you didn't say you had a 25' cable as far as I recall. That is more than likely the culprit. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif[/IMG]

With the booster there it looks like you are getting 18Gbps as you are getting RGB @60hz which is a high bandwidth signal. It will only be 8bit colour however.

If you want HDR and 10/12bit colour, you will need to use a YUV/YCbCr signal forced to 4:2:2 chroma on your source if 'Auto' doesn't work.

Something I found on the Sony website may help you:

https://www.sony.co.uk/electronics/s...icles/00171719

Cheers.
Thanks for the info. I had assumed since I was getting a picture from the DP-ub820 that it wasn't the cable, so didn't mention it, but it's the culprit for sure. Yes YUV/YCbCr with HDR etc definitely looks better. White text using RGB has a halo around it vs the YUV/YCBCR signal which looks sharper. Color is better too IMO.
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post #812 of 918 Old 11-26-2019, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by ragged View Post
Thanks for the info. I had assumed since I was getting a picture from the DP-ub820 that it wasn't the cable, so didn't mention it, but it's the culprit for sure. Yes YUV/YCbCr with HDR etc definitely looks better. White text using RGB has a halo around it vs the YUV/YCBCR signal which looks sharper. Color is better too IMO.
The 820 would have automatically downsampled the image to what would fit reliably down the pipe. Checking the info screen on the 820 whilst playing a UHD disc would have likely given that away.
Glad you have it sorted now though.

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post #813 of 918 Old 11-27-2019, 10:03 AM
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Any calibrators in the Long Island area for this projector? Please move this if I am in the wrong forum.. thanks
Chad B : [email protected]
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post #814 of 918 Old 12-01-2019, 11:54 PM
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Lens is drifting :(

I recently picked up a new Sony VPL-VW295ES over past week.

Mounted it on the Peerless AV Universal Mount (mount is new from Amazon), upside down configuration (I removed one of the 4 spider arms because the Sony PJ only had 3 mount points), no tube was used. Dailed the image onto my screen using the Lens shift.

I've powered it on a couple times over the past few days. The lens shift is drifting! I have encountered this twice in past 3-5 days. I have to launch the pattern view, and typically it has drifted up 2-4 button presses and 0-2 to the left (not a major drift).

I feel like I may have done a poor job mounting this projector - I took it on and off twice to get as reasonable as I could. Unless I'm mistaken, I believe I have the left knob (L/R height) on the Peerless mount pretty high setting to account for inperfection in mounting. Would/could this be causing the lens to drift? (Is lens drift a thing? Gravity pulled the lens shift motors?)

Is there a better mount for this PJ? This PJ is the bigger and heavier than a 5030U I had in another, unrelated, life. I feel like the Peerless is unable to fully handle the weight (particularly front to back).



Quote:
Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
Last night was watching some TV shows on my 295ES and did some adjustments to lens shift and focus. All was good and in perfect position but this morning fired it up and the lens had dropped about 1.5" (on the screen). This is the first time I remember that I needed to fix lens shift. I hope it's not something that I have to do every day, otherwise this guy will go back to BB and I may get another projector like a JVC N5 (RS1000).
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post #815 of 918 Old 12-02-2019, 02:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post
Chad B : [email protected]
D-Nice : [email protected]
Gregg Loewen : [email protected]
Kris Deering [email protected]

If all else fails master list :

<<< Click Here >>>

<<< Click Here >>>
Kevin Miller of ISF lives on Long Island He is one of the best calibrators
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post #816 of 918 Old 12-02-2019, 02:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post
Chad B : [email protected]
D-Nice : [email protected]
Gregg Loewen : [email protected]
Kris Deering [email protected]

If all else fails master list :

<<< Click Here >>>

<<< Click Here >>>
Kevin Miller of ISF lives on Long Island He is one of the best calibrators

http://isftv.com/

Last edited by rwestley; 12-02-2019 at 05:37 AM.
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post #817 of 918 Old 12-02-2019, 08:42 PM
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Hi all. Sony’s VPL-VW295ES - I'm seriously considering the 295, but have a concern about only 1500 lumens. I'll be using a 120 inch screen - relatively dark room with good shades but some light.

How is the brightness for you all?

Otherwise, I'm looking at some cheaper Epson's like the 4010 / 4050. They have 2200 lumens but of course are fake 4k.

Thank you!
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post #818 of 918 Old 12-02-2019, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by dtraist View Post
How is the brightness for you all?

Otherwise, I'm looking at some cheaper Epson's like the 4010 / 4050. They have 2200 lumens but of course are fake 4k.
I have total blacked out room, I find it pretty pleasing thus far at ~12ft throw on a 100" 1.0x gain white screen (Aeon EliteScreen). I am running it in Bright Cinema mode at the moment though. On white white parts of the image its little too much (see texture of the screen).

I'm currently more bothered about the lens drifting seemingly after a day or so between power ons. If thats its only quirk, I'll probably live with it (damn shame on a $$$ projector) till I can get a 100" TV/OLED (my room's rough max limit)

My two cents on 4k native PJ vs just PJ (faux-4k or 1080p): With my Sony VPL-VM295ES - One of the first things that came to mind once figured out how to lens shift and actually get an image on my screen was "WOW, damn, oh ho ho, that is one big image! F*$% yea!". And that stuck with me - it wasn't the pixel count/resolution/sharpness, but just the god damn size. I think this is what the Projector Central folks were talking about when they say faux 4k vs native 4k is not the question (but rather contrast/pixel quality). Additionally, things like screen quality, room light levels, auto iris capabilities and so on really tend to diminish the ability to get max value out of pixel quality in a projected image (not to mention source bitrate from streaming already taking a cut). This leads me to believe that the killer feature for a PJ is just that you're blasting a big ass image (as possible) - quality and resolution fade to much further out second position. If you're not rolling in big bucks, a decent 1080p projector (pixel shifter & HDR capable if you can afford it - ala recent Epson 3800) will punch your ticket very much so when it comes to projected image - 18gbps support and decent HDR capability being the modern features I would spring for. For non-projected image, technology like OLED, dimming zones, resolution are much more front and center, with screen size a close second. PJ = go for size and what can easily afford (cause size is what you're really buying, then HDR or 18gbps support, and then much later is resolution), TV = go for best resolution, quality picture because you can actually discern and much less variable result. I would strongly consider Epson 3800 considering my opinion its mostly about blasting a huge image. I have not tried the Epson 3800 but had the 5030UB at one point and it was damn amazing with the lights off.
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post #819 of 918 Old 12-03-2019, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by VideoNomad View Post
This leads me to believe that the killer feature for a PJ is just that you're blasting a big ass image (as possible) - quality and resolution fade to much further out second position.
I'm not sure I fully understood everything you said, however, I agree that size in the killer feature of front projection. Otherwise we would all just have flat panels.

However, given that size is the reason for front projection - IMO the attributes that make a great picture are contrast ratio, black level, brightness and resolution in that order.
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post #820 of 918 Old 12-04-2019, 12:48 PM
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Hi everyone, I have the Sony 45ES and thinking of upgrading to the 295ES due to its "entry-level" price.


But I'm already not pleased with the 1800-lumen of the 45ES due to stray light from windows washing out everything, is the 1500-lumen of the 295ES just going to be worse?



Would an ALR screen help? If yes, how much?
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post #821 of 918 Old 12-04-2019, 04:04 PM
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Hi everyone, I have the Sony 45ES and thinking of upgrading to the 295ES...not pleased with the 1800-lumen...due to stray light from windows washing out everything, is the 1500-lumen of the 295ES just going to be worse?
1800 vs 1500 (~16% decrease) in same brand - no reason to believe magically gonna do better.

ALR is variable and dependent on your config. Mildly cheap option is borrow/invest into ALR screen for existing setup, turn down existing projector to lower light mode and that should give you a rough idea how the 295 will perform (presumably in high light mode). This is relatively sane option as it gives you benefit of ALR in existing poor setup.

ProjectorCentral review:
"large majority of viewers who watch in dark room theaters, which this model is clearly targeted for,"
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post #822 of 918 Old 12-04-2019, 06:49 PM
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IMAX Enhanced?

Does anyone have a receiver that is IMAX enhanced? Is there much visual difference? Is it worth a new receiver with this feature? I currently have a Marantz SR6012
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post #823 of 918 Old 12-04-2019, 07:33 PM
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Does anyone have a receiver that is IMAX enhanced? Is there much visual difference? Is it worth a new receiver with this feature? I currently have a Marantz SR6012
I would not spend the money, just to get that feature.
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post #824 of 918 Old 12-05-2019, 06:14 AM
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I would not spend the money, just to get that feature.
There is no visual difference using any receiver. On Imax Enhanced receivers there are slightly different equalization settings for sound.
The disks or video streams are said to be Imax enhanced what ever that meanjs.
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post #825 of 918 Old 12-05-2019, 09:15 AM
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[QUOTE ... stray light... Would an ALR screen help? If yes, how much?[/QUOTE]


Depends, but most ('true') ALR screens that really make a difference only reject light coming from above (like from overhead lights). Diffuse light won't be absorbed as much. If you don't have control over ambient light, no projector is going to give you good contrast ratio. A large LCD monitor will give you a far better picture.

Still rocking an MC-1!
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post #826 of 918 Old 12-06-2019, 06:37 AM
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Hello.
Take in the ranks of the owners of Sony VPL-VW295ES
I am on page 6 of this topic so far and continue to read.
But is it possible that after 28 pages of discussion it turned out to bring out the ideal projector settings for a black room with an HTPC source?
Sorry for my English
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post #827 of 918 Old 12-06-2019, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Zel41 View Post
bring out the ideal projector settings for a black room with an HTPC source?
Custom settings are typically unique to a specific room and specific projector - typically not recommended to copy and paste custom settings for TVs or Projectors.

A) Hire a calibrator: I can't post link, but search AVSForum for thread "ISF Calibrators, where are you located? Please post here!"

B) Use the factory built in modes (Bright Cinema etc).

C) Purchase calibration gear, watch some youtube tutorials, read the manuals, and attempt your own settings. This is more expensive and probably worse results than option A or option B.
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post #828 of 918 Old 12-10-2019, 02:24 AM
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I attach my HTPC settings
Are they optimal?
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post #829 of 918 Old 12-10-2019, 05:28 AM
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I attach my HTPC settings
Are they optimal?
You could increase your refresh to 30hz and retain the RGB/4:4:4 chroma in HDR (10/12bit). Any higher a refresh and you will not be able to use RGB/4:4:4 any more. It would max out at 4:2:2 YUV in 10 or 12 bit and RGB would have to be 8bit.

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post #830 of 918 Old 12-10-2019, 08:02 AM
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Ok, but what's the point in 30hz if all the films are 24?
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post #831 of 918 Old 12-10-2019, 04:27 PM
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Ok, but what's the point in 30hz if all the films are 24?
Was thinking more for your windows desktop.
I would find 24hz on the desktop to be flickery and uncomfortable.
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post #832 of 918 Old 12-10-2019, 11:44 PM
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So Bright!

So I raised the gain from the service menu as instructed in the 695 owners thread and wow! I have a very used lamp and now I dont really feel the need for a new one. I cant imagine how bright it would be with a new lamp. Im not telling anyone else to try this (do it at your own risk!) but it is worth it if you feel your picture it too dim.
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post #833 of 918 Old 12-11-2019, 02:15 AM
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Is anyone else finding their VPL-VW295ES has light bleed/overspray, about 6"? I have a 16:9 screen 100", rigid, small border (Elite Screens Aeon).

I notice it particularly when watching a film (just watched Fantastic Beasts 1 - had that light overspray). It isn't the image overspraying (that would be vivid colors), but rather a dim shadow like overspray. Oddly I don't seem to notice this when in AppleTV's menu UI.

Is this something that is inherent with the mismatch between my 16:9 (1.78:1) screen and the projector's 1:89:1 aspect ratio?

Is the proper answer here to deploy some black velvet fabric to absorb this? Or might there be a projector config that needs to be done?
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post #834 of 918 Old 12-11-2019, 06:47 AM
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Ok
From this topic, I realized that for the correct HDR you need to use the Panasonic ub820
Can I use HTPC instead of Panasonic ub820?
Or will I lose in quality?
Who had this experience? Any ideas?
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post #835 of 918 Old 12-12-2019, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dastodavid View Post
So I raised the gain from the service menu as instructed in the 695 owners thread and wow! I have a very used lamp and now I dont really feel the need for a new one. I cant imagine how bright it would be with a new lamp. Im not telling anyone else to try this (do it at your own risk!) but it is worth it if you feel your picture it too dim.
Can you PM me these Instructions?

Thanks!

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post #836 of 918 Old 12-12-2019, 07:24 AM
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Can you PM me these Instructions?

Thanks!

It's at the bottom of this post...


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...l#post58863574
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post #837 of 918 Old 12-12-2019, 07:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VideoNomad View Post
Is anyone else finding their VPL-VW295ES has light bleed/overspray, about 6"? I have a 16:9 screen 100", rigid, small border (Elite Screens Aeon).

I notice it particularly when watching a film (just watched Fantastic Beasts 1 - had that light overspray). It isn't the image overspraying (that would be vivid colors), but rather a dim shadow like overspray. Oddly I don't seem to notice this when in AppleTV's menu UI.

Is this something that is inherent with the mismatch between my 16:9 (1.78:1) screen and the projector's 1:89:1 aspect ratio?

Is the proper answer here to deploy some black velvet fabric to absorb this? Or might there be a projector config that needs to be done?
Yes. The panel is 17:9 and when showing 16:9 or scope content, you are not using the full panel width. So what is not used appears as black bar. If you run your image on the bright side, higher than 16FL, it will easily show up. Not saying it disappears at 16FL, but it is less noticeable, as compared to running 30FL. If your screen is 1.0 gain and you are toward the short end of the throw range and you are using low lamp, you would be getting around 29FL on your screen. That is why this border is so noticable to you.
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post #838 of 918 Old 12-12-2019, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtraist View Post
Hi all. Sony’s VPL-VW295ES - I'm seriously considering the 295, but have a concern about only 1500 lumens. I'll be using a 120 inch screen - relatively dark room with good shades but some light.

How is the brightness for you all?

Otherwise, I'm looking at some cheaper Epson's like the 4010 / 4050. They have 2200 lumens but of course are fake 4k.

Thank you!

I have a 695ES with 1800 lumens and project onto a 115" 2.35:1 cinemascope type screen and the brightness is very good. With 300 less lumens, you may not get quite the same HDR type effect but it should still be a very nice image. I will say that the first 500 hours I felt the 1800 lumens was too much, but after 600 hours, it's about right. Also, I went from a 1.0 gain screen to a 1.25 gain screen and that really added some brightness, so you may want a higher gain screen to offset less lumens. I have the Stewart Cima and it really looks amazing!
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post #839 of 918 Old 12-12-2019, 07:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zel41 View Post
Ok
From this topic, I realized that for the correct HDR you need to use the Panasonic ub820
Can I use HTPC instead of Panasonic ub820?
Or will I lose in quality?
Who had this experience? Any ideas?

The Panasonic 420 or 820 do really well with tone mapping for a projector. If you want to use an HTPC, then you will want to research MadVR, as that is known to be one of the best tone mapping options out there from my understanding.
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post #840 of 918 Old 12-12-2019, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
Yes. The panel is 17:9 and when showing 16:9 or scope content, you are not using the full panel width. So what is not used appears as black bar. If you run your image on the bright side, higher than 16FL, it will easily show up. Not saying it disappears at 16FL, but it is less noticeable, as compared to running 30FL. If your screen is 1.0 gain and you are toward the short end of the throw range and you are using low lamp, you would be getting around 29FL on your screen. That is why this border is so noticable to you.
I was running in Bright Cinema against 1.0x gain screen - It seems to have caused some eye strain in completely blacked out room so I have switched video mode to Cinema 1.

It sounds like I should invest in some black velvet to mask the remaining areas?
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