Official JVC RS3000/NX9 - JVC RS2000/NX7/N7 - JVC RS1000/NX5/N5 - Owners Thread - Page 113 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3361 of 12853 Old 01-25-2019, 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by dlinsley View Post
It is over exposed in this image, but is still quite a mess at seating.
@dlinsley Is the image of the "Paused" symbol form your NX9 ?? The Bleeding/Haloing looks VERY excessive...
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post #3362 of 12853 Old 01-26-2019, 12:06 AM
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Originally Posted by woofer View Post
Yep if you use the Zone or Fine pixel adjustments for convergence , it usually creates more problems than what you are trying to fix.

Fine pixel tuning can be used with no problem, as you use the whole panel. Not Zone, there more problems than come.
But best is 1 pixel shift or fine tuning.

But best not to tamper with, you might get some colour in between 1:1 pixels ...

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post #3363 of 12853 Old 01-26-2019, 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Jim Cutter View Post
I was referring to the pipe that drops down from the ceiling. Here is my current RS4810 mounted to the pipe with a universal Peerless mount with the adjustable arms. I was thinking that maybe I can just thread this on to the same pipe. At least that is what I was hoping to do.
hi Jim, I would be tempted to just try as it is yours looks a rather solid set-up give it a shot if you want to change mounts on same pipe ... depends really on compatibility of threads ... if incompatible you can get your local plumber to make up a "barrel union" wiht the either threads to make the connection... or alternatively get your plumber to thread a piece of heavy pipe ....one thread on one end one on other

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Originally Posted by Spizz View Post
Al is seems 2 people in this thread have had issues with the Peerless PRG-UNV mount and movement when the fans kick in on the new JVCs. Reason for concern. I have emailed Peerless to seek further info before changing over to a Chief Bracket.
hi spizz, as a professional qualified engineer who has done enough degree level study in structural engineering and structural mechanics.... I myself have no concerns. what you have in essence is a pendulum action with ceiling mounts especially with pole mounts and especially where poles are quite long and you have basically points of movement at both point of attachments at ceiling and at mount and also the potential of twisting and torsional bending in pole itself. Any movement you have is not going to be down to arms or plate... which by the way is no ways what Id define as a plate ! its sheet metal ! . and can tell you the arms that the peerless have are actually quite heavy walled and because its pressed metal and in a form of a channel is actually quite rigid vs the so called plate or sheet of steel with some holes drilled in it.

i'll also say this with anything structural and with weight loadings in design you also build in a factor of safety often as high as 2.5x ! so there is no concern on my part in using something within weight loading. my suggestion go with what you have. if there are any concerns get in touch with B&H photo if got through them, I have never in all my dealings ever found them to be anything but bending over backwards to help out if not happy in anyways.
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post #3364 of 12853 Old 01-26-2019, 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Dj Dee View Post
Fine pixel tuning can be used with no problem, as you use the whole panel. Not Zone, there more problems than come.
But best is 1 pixel shift or fine tuning.
I have seen issues when using Fine Pixel adjustments.

Single pixel is OK.
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post #3365 of 12853 Old 01-26-2019, 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by woofer View Post
Yep if you use the Zone or Fine pixel adjustments for convergence , it usually creates more problems than what you are trying to fix.
Agreed...best to leave it alone.
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post #3366 of 12853 Old 01-26-2019, 12:21 AM
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Originally Posted by dlinsley View Post
With the AVS test disk, bar 17 didn't seem too bright for me but maybe I should look at it again. I did notice this elevated black level though and maybe this is the same issue? I am using gamma 2.4 but I should try 2.2:



This is the left edge of the opening shot of Gravity (bluray) right after the text has disappeared. This is a 16:9 image on my scope screen and so from left to right the areas are the velvet border, unlit screen, the 17:9 outer edge of the projector and then the 16:9 image. The unlit screen, which should show the limit of my room I believe, is much darker than the outer 17:9 of the panel (and the scope bars above the image are about the same). Using a 100 IRE 10% windows and my light meter, low lamp iris -9 (then set to auto 2) gives me 16fL. This bright edge of the 17:9 I would have thought should be much darker given it should be 0 IRE right? Given I'll be using a DCR, I wont be seeing black bars in these areas but it gives me much concern that the native contrast is far too low still gives the -9 on the iris.

The above was taken after I hung the projector, having previously been using it on a workbench. I setup my RS600 on that workbench and the scope bars in the 16:9 image blend much more with the unlit screen (it's a little elevated to the eye). I mention that the RS3000 is in a different orientation as additionally I don't see streaking in the old way, with the text on Gravity where on the RS600 it streaks vertically quite badly, but it does sparkle on the corners and is visible from seating. The Oppo pause symbol shows this well. It is over exposed in this image, but is still quite a mess at seating. I need to try the QBF pattern now the projector is hung, as that looked great before:



Trying hard to just breath...

Hi Just hold your breath, and breath
And personally I don't mind so much anymore the issues that I was irritated over.
Then after a side by side with a Sony 4K with 440:1 in ansi and a older JVC. Then I just smiled. The NX9 looked stunning. And even ANSI C 440:1 on the sony and 250:1 Ansi C on my NX9 the difference was not visible on screen. And when the dark material came, I packed the Sony down for good.

First I guess that you have not adjusted the projector to your screen. So then you might get colour stick like you have now in black then green.

I also had similar to your pause sign, but got better after around 60 hours. So panels need to be gone for some time.

Run the projector for minimum 40 hours let the panels get normalized. Also if you don't have the possibility to calibrate use the screen adjustment, where you put in your screen. That helps some.


But the new JVC N series has streaking still like old models and some blooming, the old was other way. That might be better like its now, and less visible in film material, and that's where we see it. I hope that you have updated the Firmware, if not the Iris don't work at all. But I guess you have read that already.

Also remember that bar 17 shall be barely visible upp in front of your screen. But as I see it the JVC dont have elivated total black, just to bright 1% and 2% then around bar 17-18. I personally got it perfect with -3 on the brightness. Still seeing the bar 17 in front of the screen. The pattern added is the best to use on JVC. Its on Disney's World of wonder test disk.
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post #3367 of 12853 Old 01-26-2019, 12:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woofer View Post
I have seen issues when using Fine Pixel adjustments.

Single pixel is OK.
What happens?
And what projector

But agree, best to leave it alone for shore

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post #3368 of 12853 Old 01-26-2019, 12:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Dj Dee View Post
What happens?
And what projector

But agree, best to leave it alone for shore
On my RS4500, when using the fine adjustment, then standing right at the screen and bringing up the menu, where the background of the menu is solid grey, there was some mosquito noise like you see on lamp projectors. When I turned off the fine adjustment that was gone.

To be honest, I'm not sure what fine adjustment actually does. On the pixel convergence screen, the white lines are a couple (or a few) pixels wide. You can really only move 1 pixel but fine attempts to move more. It should be impossible so there's got to be some tricks with processing and it has to take away something.
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post #3369 of 12853 Old 01-26-2019, 01:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Alex Hindman View Post
What is the usual life expectancy of a JVC projector. Not talking about bulbs. Assuming you change out the bulbs when needed, how long would the actual projector last?
Despite what folk might think is my opinion from some of my posts in the X7900 thread, I've bought a couple of 5-6 year old JVC DLA-X series units in recent years and they've both been excellent and performed pretty much like new units. They've both been models that had known potential failures (X3 and X30 ballast boards) but I'd weighed potential for failure vs money saved and been very happy.

This is a new chassis though; undoubtedly it builds on the cumulative engineering prowess JVC have from however many years of projector manufacturing, but these are designed by humans and some issues can creep in which are not apparent until the passage of some time. For anyone of a nervous disposition there would be something to be said for sitting out this model as it does represent a lot of new for JVC, or at least letting the dust settle on the initial shipments and seeing how they are behaving themselves in the theatres of the early adopters.
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post #3370 of 12853 Old 01-26-2019, 01:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
On my RS4500, when using the fine adjustment, then standing right at the screen and bringing up the menu, where the background of the menu is solid grey, there was some mosquito noise like you see on lamp projectors. When I turned off the fine adjustment that was gone.

To be honest, I'm not sure what fine adjustment actually does. On the pixel convergence screen, the white lines are a couple (or a few) pixels wide. You can really only move 1 pixel but fine attempts to move more. It should be impossible so there's got to be some tricks with processing and it has to take away something.

There are for shore some tricks, but for shore best not to touch to much hehe

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post #3371 of 12853 Old 01-26-2019, 01:26 AM
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Originally Posted by woofer View Post
@dlinsley Is the image of the "Paused" symbol form your NX9 ?? The Bleeding/Haloing looks VERY excessive...
Yes. I didn't notice any of that in the QBF, and checked the photo I posted of the bottom right corner (and so now the top left where the pause icon is). I will run that again to see if it now shows up, or if it needs large white blocks. This photo shows the issue on the text (though again a little over exposed by my phone, but my phone is actually sharper than my eyes as it is trying to remove glare I think via its night mode detection), and is visible from seating:



Quote:
Originally Posted by Dj Dee View Post
First I guess that you have not adjusted the projector to your screen. So then you might get colour stick like you have now in black then green.

I also had similar to your pause sign, but got better after around 60 hours. So panels need to be gone for some time.

Run the projector for minimum 40 hours let the panels get normalized. Also if you don't have the possibility to calibrate use the screen adjustment, where you put in your screen. That helps some.

But the new JVC N series has streaking still like old models and some blooming, the old was other way. That might be better like its now, and less visible in film material, and that's where we see it. I hope that you have updated the Firmware, if not the Iris don't work at all. But I guess you have read that already.

Also remember that bar 17 shall be barely visible upp in front of your screen. But as I see it the JVC dont have elivated total black, just to bright 1% and 2% then around bar 17-18. I personally got it perfect with -3 on the brightness. Still seeing the bar 17 in front of the screen. The pattern added is the best to use on JVC. Its on Disney's World of wonder test disk.
Thank you for the reassurance. Yes, it was shipped with the fixed firmware 1.17. I calibrated 30 and 100 against my screen (I posted the other day that 30 IRE had too much green and faces had a zombie look), but maybe I've caused issues lower and need to check each point. In the actual content of the early part of Gravity the black of space looked fine I think. Same the other day when I was using scope material zoomed to fill the screen (Rogue One, Interstellar and Black Panther 4k), they looked excellent. Tonight with that shot from Gravity I was too focused on the outer edge and what that means when I am watching 16:9 content for my scope screen with the DCR lens. There will be no unlit portion of the screen, but the black side bars presumably will look very elevated.

My lamp timer is currently just at 3 hours, as I'm trying to do my best to evaluate within the refund period. 40 hours for panel normalization and 60 hours for the flaring seems like a lot of $$$ away
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post #3372 of 12853 Old 01-26-2019, 01:29 AM
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Originally Posted by dlinsley View Post
Yes. I didn't notice any of that in the QBF, and checked the photo I posted of the bottom right corner (and so now the top left where the pause icon is). I will run that again to see if it now shows up, or if it needs large white blocks. This photo shows the issue on the text (though again a little over exposed by my phone):





Thank you for the reassurance. Yes, it was shipped with the fixed firmware 1.17. I calibrated 30 and 100 against my screen (I posted the other day that 30 IRE had too much green and faces had a zombie look), but maybe I've caused issues lower and need to check each point. In the actual content of the early part of Gravity the black of space looked fine I think. Same the other day when I was using scope material zoomed to fill the screen (Rogue One, Interstellar and Black Panther 4k), they looked excellent. Tonight with that shot from Gravity I was too focused on the outer edge and what that means when I am watching 16:9 content for my scope screen with the DCR lens. There will be no unlit portion of the screen, but the black side bars presumably will look very elevated.

My lamp timer is currently just at 3 hours, as I'm trying to do my best to evaluate within the refund period. 40 hours for panel normalization and 60 hours for the flaring seems like a lot of $$$ away

Hell no, does it seam that way from sitting position?
Is it that bad seen? Hope not.
I can try the same, what film is this taken from and when. Gravity

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post #3373 of 12853 Old 01-26-2019, 01:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Dj Dee View Post
Hell no, does it seam that way from sitting position?
Yes, I edited my post to mention that I think its night mode detection is trying to remove some of the glare. I will try to get a shot from the seating position.
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post #3374 of 12853 Old 01-26-2019, 01:35 AM
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Originally Posted by dlinsley View Post
Yes, I edited my post to mention that I think its night mode detection is trying to remove some of the glare. I will try to get a shot from the seating position.
There will always be some, but to show it how it is is kind of hard. try to expose it how you as close as possible see it.

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post #3375 of 12853 Old 01-26-2019, 01:48 AM
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Here took the pictures now from my phone.

I will say that you see less on screen than on my phone picture.
One closeup and one from sweet spot.

PProjector not warmed up more than 10 seconds so convergence.




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post #3376 of 12853 Old 01-26-2019, 02:03 AM
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I compared streaming HRD material from Netflix (Ozark, Marco Polo) & Amazon (Mrs. Maisel, Mozart in the Jungle) via Roku Ultra (fixed metadata) versus ATV 4K (variable metadata). Hands down, Roku provided a far superior (and stable) image on my NX7.


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I was hoping the Apple would be fine as we don't have Roku Ultra here in Australia, and importing one without support for local streaming apps is problematic. Will have to use the AppleTV 4K for now.

I have been silently following this thread and the anticipation thread.



I am eagerly waiting for my NX7 to arrive. This will be my first projector.
Meanwhile, HDR playback on the Telstra TV2 ( which is a 4k Roku device ) on my Z9D is quite good. The specs seem similar to the "Roku Ultra".



I plan to use my NVIDIA shield as the primary streaming device with an Xbox one X and Telstra TV2 as fallback devices.
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post #3377 of 12853 Old 01-26-2019, 02:26 AM
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I've noted lagging and then abrupt transitions in tone mapping, especially when scenes quickly change from light -> dark (or vice versa). Also, there has been an actual loss of sync on 1 occasion with the ATV 4k.


Got it. Thanks!
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post #3378 of 12853 Old 01-26-2019, 02:29 AM
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As has been previously pointed out, with Amazon & Netflix the ATV 4K constantly changes the encoded HDR metadata reported to the projector and the JVC tone mapping fluctuates at intervals to catch up with these changes. The metadata from the Roku is constant and the tone mapping in the NX7 does a very commendable job in the display, especially with the darker content of interior scenes such as Netflix's "Marco Polo".
I'm interested in getting hold of a Roku; they appear to have just launched the 4K versions here at last. The AppleTV issues are beyond the joke now. They've had this issue for over 9 months I believe.

I've got a Sony UHD player that does HDR10 Netflix well, but it is extremely annoying in use as the frame rate changes for all the little trailers in the Netflix menu. This makes navigation almost impossible on the previous generation units. Do the Roku units still do this? Also, do you know if the Roku supports native 23.976 and 24p, or just 23.976?
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post #3379 of 12853 Old 01-26-2019, 02:29 AM
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Originally Posted by chamii123 View Post
I have been silently following this thread and the anticipation thread.



I am eagerly waiting for my NX7 to arrive. This will be my first projector.
Meanwhile, HDR playback on the Telstra TV2 ( which is a 4k Roku device ) on my Z9D is quite good. The specs seem similar to the "Roku Ultra".



I plan to use my NVIDIA shield as the primary streaming device with an Xbox one X and Telstra TV2 as fallback devices.
Your first projector The N7 Nice
HDR on it look fantastic.
I think you will be very happy.

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post #3380 of 12853 Old 01-26-2019, 02:36 AM
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Just got this NX9 up and running.

Things to note:
  • Chief RPA281 fit perfectly
  • Signal Sorce via HDBase2 output on Integra 11.2 Receiver to Integra HDBase2 Receiver above PJ.
  • No Irus noise...No Clicking
  • Pixel Alignment was almost spot on. Red required 3 clicks of "Fine" adjustment to get perfect Panel alignment.
A few progressive shots.

NX9 up in the air...no easy feat that !





The Screen in use is a 122" diag. 16:9 Light Fusion Painted Sintra Board.





It was a tough go to get here but here we are at last.....
Question: you have a very bright room. Doesn’t this defeat the purpose of buying the NX9? Of course the lense is better, but contrast / black level is very much affected bij the white walls. Would’t an N7 perform just as good?

Edit: do you use in-wall speakers besides the subs? Really can’t see them!

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post #3381 of 12853 Old 01-26-2019, 03:00 AM
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I'm interested in getting hold of a Roku; they appear to have just launched the 4K versions here at last. The AppleTV issues are beyond the joke now. They've had this issue for over 9 months I believe.

I've got a Sony UHD player that does HDR10 Netflix well, but it is extremely annoying in use as the frame rate changes for all the little trailers in the Netflix menu. This makes navigation almost impossible on the previous generation units. Do the Roku units still do this? Also, do you know if the Roku supports native 23.976 and 24p, or just 23.976?

Yes, my Roku Premier+ does the same thing in the Netflix app if you have the Roku set to auto switch refresh rates. Quite annoying. I'm not sure if it does 23.976 or not.
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post #3382 of 12853 Old 01-26-2019, 04:57 AM
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Since we’re all talking about mounting options and the like for these projectors in here....what is the prescribed method or steps in mounting one of these things?

I’ll have:

Chief joist/ceiling mount
Chief drop tube/column
Chief RPMA
Chief SLM281

Clearly I’d go ahead and mount the ceiling hardware first....but then what?

I’m thinking:

1)mount ceiling hardware to joist
2)mount SLM281 to RS2000
3)screw in drop tube to ceiling
4)screw in RPMA to drop tube
5)have one person hold projector while other screws SLM281 to RPMA?

I know the RPMA has a sliding/locking bracket....where does that come in? That would make things easier I’d imagine.
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post #3383 of 12853 Old 01-26-2019, 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by ScottieBoysName View Post
1)mount ceiling hardware to joist
2)mount SLM281 to RS2000
3)screw in drop tube to ceiling
4)screw in RPMA to drop tube
5)have one person hold projector while other screws SLM281 to RPMA?

I know the RPMA has a sliding/locking bracket....where does that come in? That would make things easier I’d imagine.
The SLM281 has 6 studs with thumbnuts on them. You just slide the SLM281 (with projector attached) horizontally into the RPMA and then the thumbnuts support it even before they are tightened. From there it's easy. You just apply upward pressure to the projector while you tighten the thumbnuts.

The difficult part is lifting the projector up to the RPMA. It weighs almost 45 lbs (50 lbs for the RS3000) which is almost half again as much as previous JVC's. I was always able to mount previous projectors by myself, but this one definitely required 2 people just to lift it up and into the RPMA.
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post #3384 of 12853 Old 01-26-2019, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by jmonier View Post
The SLM281 has 6 studs with thumbnuts on them. You just slide the SLM281 (with projector attached) horizontally into the RPMA and then the thumbnuts support it even before they are tightened. From there it's easy. You just apply upward pressure to the projector while you tighten the thumbnuts.



The difficult part is lifting the projector up to the RPMA. It weighs almost 45 lbs (50 lbs for the RS3000) which is almost half again as much as previous JVC's. I was always able to mount previous projectors by myself, but this one definitely required 2 people just to lift it up and into the RPMA.


Thanks! What about the locking piece I keep reading about? It seems there is an A, B, etc. Mike described the reason being different departments would in a school might have different versions specific to their department.

Besides that, what you’re saying is that mount the plate to the projector, then after I have the RPMA on the drop tube (does it just screw into the threads? Is there a lock?) one person will hold the projector and plate up in the air and another will guide the plate into the RPMA thumb screws?
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post #3385 of 12853 Old 01-26-2019, 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by DennisLJacob View Post
I'm guessing your projection unit and theater are the best of the best in your little town. Does your town even have a public movie theater? Congrats on getting the new projector up and running.

I'll choose to take that first sentence as being "tongue in cheek". Bradenton, FL has some very affluent tenants. Very nice Cinemas and a IMAX. The individual who own the home shown lives in a gated Community, but the "Custom Built to Spec" home allowed no input after signing the build contract, so the Room had to come as the plans showed. Then there was the personal wishes of the Owner / Wife to consider. Still, as I state below, I was able to make something more special happen than one might expect.


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Originally Posted by Jim Cutter View Post
That is one bright room!

It seems like that, but there are two windows wide open to a Southern vantage point illuminating the room, and the walls are actually a mid-tone beige. While it's certainly not optimally painted (I'm an avowed advocate for Light Control / Room Surface prep.) the room does fade to an appropriate level of darkness once the windows are shuttered. Always, choosing a JVC for this Guy has been one way to at least assure the best possible Contrast / Black Levels / Resolution possible under a given circumstance.Just let me add that after having done 5 Theaters for this Guy since 1995, this is the first one he has had where he had to compromise on design.


Lastly, I don't think anyone should count the use of a NX9 in a less than optimal room as being a Pig-in-the-Poke. Just doesn't seem logical if the gains outweigh the disadvantages.


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Originally Posted by Teejoo View Post
Question: you have a very bright room. Doesn’t this defeat the purpose of buying the NX9? Of course the lense is better, but contrast / black level is very much affected bij the white walls. Would’nt an N7 perform just as good?

In truth, the two factors most would be concerned with just don appear to be much of a concern here. In a fully darkened room, the NX9's attributes are clearly seen, despite the Native Contrast of the PJ being replaced (x950r) being significantly higher. Has for opting for a NX7? Ha...try convincing a Senior FedEx Pilot / confirmed Gadget Hound to go with anything less than what he feels would be an upgrade. You would Crash & Burn!


Quote:
Edit: do you use in-wall speakers besides the subs? Really can’t see them!

As it should be....yet there are fully 11 Channels in the room...(7.2.4) all of them with Audio Transducers mounted in the front Wall and the Ceilings. 38 in total. "Invisible Stereo" as it were.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottieBoysName View Post
Since we’re all talking about mounting options and the like for these projectors in here....what is the prescribed method or steps in mounting one of these things?

I’ll have:

Chief joist/ceiling mount
Chief drop tube/column
Chief RPMA
Chief SLM281

Clearly I’d go ahead and mount the ceiling hardware first....but then what?

I’m thinking:

1)mount ceiling hardware to joist
2)mount SLM281 to RS2000
3)screw in drop tube to ceiling
4)screw in RPMA to drop tube
5)have one person hold projector while other screws SLM281 to RPMA?

I know the RPMA has a sliding/locking bracket....where does that come in? That would make things easier I’d imagine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmonier View Post
The SLM281 has 6 studs with thumbnuts on them. You just slide the SLM281 (with projector attached) horizontally into the RPMA and then the thumbnuts support it even before they are tightened. From there it's easy. You just apply upward pressure to the projector while you tighten the thumbnuts.

Nope...your describing the SLB281. The SLM281 has "T" Studs that do hold the PJ in place, but that are loced in by sliding the Locking Plate on the RPMA Drop Mount Carriage.


Quote:
The difficult part is lifting the projector up to the RPMA. It weighs almost 45 lbs (50 lbs for the RS3000) which is almost half again as much as previous JVC's. I was always able to mount previous projectors by myself, but this one definitely required 2 people just to lift it up and into the RPMA.
Actually sthe NX9/RS3000 weighs lightly less.....a svelte 48 lbs. And yeah, it was a bugger to get into place using the existing SLB Plate & Mount. Holding it level at the top of a 8' Ladder is a recipe for a big "oops" moment. I was not enamored with the Thumb nuts this time around....very difficult to turn if :ANY: pressure from the PJ is on them. I'm voting for the RPMA / SLM281 as the better option going forward.

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post #3386 of 12853 Old 01-26-2019, 07:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
I'll choose to take that first sentence as being "tongue in cheek". Bradenton, FL has some very affluent tenants. Very nice Cinemas and a IMAX. The individual who own the home shown lives in a gated Community, but the "Custom Built to Spec" home allowed no input after signing the build contract, so the Room had to come as the plans showed. Then there was the personal wishes of the Owner / Wife to consider. Still, as I state below, I was able to make something more special happen than one might expect.





It seems like that, but there are two windows wide open to a Southern vantage point illuminating the room, and the walls are actually a mid-tone beige. While it's certainly not optimally painted (I'm an avowed advocate for Light Control / Room Surface prep.) the room does fade to an appropriate level of darkness once the windows are shuttered. Always, choosing a JVC for this Guy has been one way to at least assure the best possible Contrast / Black Levels / Resolution possible under a given circumstance.Just let me add that after having done 5 Theaters for this Guy since 1995, this is the first one he has had where he had to compromise on design.


Lastly, I don't think anyone should count the use of a NX9 in a less than optimal room as being a Pig-in-the-Poke. Just doesn't seem logical if the gains outweigh the disadvantages.





In truth, the two factors most would be concerned with just don appear to be much of a concern here. In a fully darkened room, the NX9's attributes are clearly seen, despite the Native Contrast of the PJ being replaced (x950r) being significantly higher. Has for opting for a NX7? Ha...try convincing a Senior FedEx Pilot / confirmed Gadget Hound to go with anything less than what he feels would be an upgrade. You would Crash & Burn!





As it should be....yet there are fully 11 Channels in the room...(7.2.4) all of them with Audio Transducers mounted in the front Wall and the Ceilings. 38 in total. "Invisible Stereo" as it were.







Nope...your describing the SLB281. The SLM281 has "T" Studs that do hold the PJ in place, but that are loced in by sliding the Locking Plate on the RPMA Drop Mount Carriage.



Actually sthe NX9/RS3000 weighs lightly less.....a svelte 48 lbs. And yeah, it was a bugger to get into place using the existing SLB Plate & Mount. Holding it level at the top of a 8' Ladder is a recipe for a big "oops" moment. I was not enamored with the Thumb nuts this time around....very difficult to turn if :ANY: pressure from the PJ is on them. I'm voting for the RPMA / SLM281 as the better option going forward.


Ok...that’s what I was looking for. I keep hearing about a locking plate. I read a review (in Amazon of all places) where the reviewer was not happy with the locking plate and suggested it was a terrible design and allowed the projector to become dislodged easily. I take this with a grain of salt and possibly a bit of user error as it’s an Amazon review (no bias there on my part, lots of good people on Amazon) but that’s just how it felt.

Any thoughts?
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post #3387 of 12853 Old 01-26-2019, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
I went through this and aligned everything to using Zone and thought I was pretty happy. Then I popped up a 1 pixel focus pattern and it was a green, splotchy mess. So i turned all that off. This time I just aligned so the center was focused. If either the left or right was out a little I ignored it. I only sit 7 feet away from a 135" and cant even tell. I suggest you don't worry about it. In my opinion, the blue being out is less noticeable than the red anyway.


Thank you. I will try this out.


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post #3388 of 12853 Old 01-26-2019, 07:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottieBoysName View Post
Ok...that’s what I was looking for. I keep hearing about a locking plate. I read a review (in Amazon of all places) where the reviewer was not happy with the locking plate and suggested it was a terrible design and allowed the projector to become dislodged easily. I take this with a grain of salt and possibly a bit of user error as it’s an Amazon review (no bias there on my part, lots of good people on Amazon) but that’s just how it felt.

Any thoughts?

For quite a while I felt the Locking Feature and higher Profile (...as well as the RPMA's Knob Adjustments...) were not worth the price difference. But I was also installing PJs whose weight I could support with one hand while tightening the Thumb Nuts. I can easily manhandle a x990r....but I met my match with the NX9. I haven't had such a difficult time hanging a PJ since I installed a 1st Generation Sony Pearl.


Of course I was 15 years younger then too.
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post #3389 of 12853 Old 01-26-2019, 07:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmonier View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottieBoysName View Post
1)mount ceiling hardware to joist
2)mount SLM281 to RS2000
3)screw in drop tube to ceiling
4)screw in RPMA to drop tube
5)have one person hold projector while other screws SLM281 to RPMA?

I know the RPMA has a sliding/locking bracket....where does that come in? That would make things easier I’d imagine.
The SLM281 has 6 studs with thumbnuts on them. You just slide the SLM281 (with projector attached) horizontally into the RPMA and then the thumbnuts support it even before they are tightened. From there it's easy. You just apply upward pressure to the projector while you tighten the thumbnuts.

The difficult part is lifting the projector up to the RPMA. It weighs almost 45 lbs (50 lbs for the RS3000) which is almost half again as much as previous JVC's. I was always able to mount previous projectors by myself, but this one definitely required 2 people just to lift it up and into the RPMA.
I played it safe and elected to not push up on the projector once it was resting on the plate. I used a double jointed long reach set of pliers to tighten the thumb screws. There also is not a lot of space between the two pieces to use you hands. I didn’t use a drop pole.
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Last edited by rg4471; 01-26-2019 at 07:35 AM.
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post #3390 of 12853 Old 01-26-2019, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by chamii123 View Post

I am eagerly waiting for my NX7 to arrive. This will be my first projector.
Meanwhile, HDR playback on the Telstra TV2 ( which is a 4k Roku device ) on my Z9D is quite good. The specs seem similar to the "Roku Ultra".
I remember my first projector.... Man what a machine you picked for your first, what size screen are you going to use? Viewing distance?
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