Official JVC RS3000/NX9 - JVC RS2000/NX7/N7 - JVC RS1000/NX5/N5 - Owners Thread - Page 169 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5041 of 14043 Old 02-09-2019, 05:48 AM
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Originally Posted by alebonau View Post
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Originally Posted by Clark Burk View Post
I’m saying JVC has left the old glasses showing for the new models in error. I don’t believe they have newer models of glasses available yet. The XPand glasses(X105-RF-X1) are very similar in style to the old JVC glasses. They are also available for around $40 US.
sound ludicrous to me ... so i someone ordered a JVC with 3D emitter and glasses they will be sold JVC glasses that wont work ? [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/eek.gif[/IMG]
No. It depends on your screen and how it holds polarization. I just picked up the current JVC RF glasses and they do not suffer from a dimmer picture when viewed horizontally vs vertically.
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post #5042 of 14043 Old 02-09-2019, 05:52 AM
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Well, it’s official... the JVC glasses don’t work for me... I need the vertical polarized glasses. When i turn my head 90 degrees, the image is stunning and so bright. The 3D Sin City looks absolutely amazing. The blacks, the contrast and not to mention the amazing depth you get from the 3D format. Time to find new glasses. Anyone have a source for them?

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post #5043 of 14043 Old 02-09-2019, 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by rg4471 View Post
No. It depends on your screen and how it holds polarization. I just picked up the current JVC RF glasses and they do not suffer from a dimmer picture when viewed horizontally vs vertically.
Correct. If your screen does not maintain polarization there is not much difference. The turning your head to one side or turning the glasses will give you a good idea. My question is if you intend to buy new glasses why would you spend 4 times as much money if you can get the same glasses in quality for much less? If you already own the older JVC glasses and your screen is not maintaining polarization then fine they will work just as good. You could also sell your old glasses and perhaps buy new glasses with the vertical polarization and put money in your pocket

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post #5044 of 14043 Old 02-09-2019, 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by yankiy View Post
Well, it’s official... the JVC glasses don’t work for me... I need the vertical polarized glasses. When i turn my head 90 degrees, the image is stunning and so bright. The 3D Sin City looks absolutely amazing. The blacks, the contrast and not to mention the amazing depth you get from the 3D format. Time to find new glasses. Anyone have a source for them?
In US Amazon XPand X105-RF-X1, likely available in Canada too.

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post #5045 of 14043 Old 02-09-2019, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by grendelrt View Post
I wrote it down from that post to buy some myself since he didn't like the standard length, it was M5 x 30mm bolts.
It came with m5x20mm bolts. Not sure why you need the 30 mm ones.
I considered it cheap insurance. 😄. One of my other hobbies is cars and with as few threads were actually engaged, if I tried to secure the plate to my PJ, I figured I would strip the inserts. Seen it too many times w cars.
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post #5046 of 14043 Old 02-09-2019, 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Clark Burk View Post
Good points. It makes sense that the lamp iris mechanism being in place even with iris set to 0 would have some effect on light scattering that might help contrast. This would also seem to indicate that the RS1000 would have slightly higher lumens. This isn’t the case according to the specks as JVC claims the 2000 is higher in lumens??
Is JVC fudging their specks to differentiate between the models?
Yep, this. It doesn't have higher lumens, in fact it's rated 100 lumens less.

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post #5047 of 14043 Old 02-09-2019, 06:20 AM
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Yep, this. It doesn't have higher lumens, in fact it's rated 100 lumens less.
That's my point. Until we get some actual measurements it's impossible to say. If you set the iris to zero and use high lamp, are the NX5(RS1000) and NX7(RS2000) very close in performance with contrast and brightness? Is native of the NX7 double that of the NX5 and is it slightly brighter as the specks would have you believe? This is what I'd like to know.

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post #5048 of 14043 Old 02-09-2019, 06:23 AM
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This is why I wanted my projector delivered by UPS/Fedex...they bang things up, but they always stand up and pay for damage. Freight companies always try to weasel out of paying claims.
You have to be very careful with commercial freight for sure. When you sign for a delivery, you are signing a contract.
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post #5049 of 14043 Old 02-09-2019, 06:58 AM
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The only annoying thing so far....

When you first turn on the projector, the convergence is off quite a bit... but after about a 30 minute warm up, all goes back to normal.

I wonder if it will ever settle... I have 25 hours on the bulb already...
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post #5050 of 14043 Old 02-09-2019, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Clark Burk View Post
Apparently the engineering department didn’t get together with the marketing department and forgot to tell them the polarization has changed on the new models. Bad news is on a screen that maintains polarization you will find the older glasses quite dark. Good news is JVC now uses the same RF glasses that Samsung, Sony, Epson, and Panasonic all use. So if you’re selling your old JVC to upgrade you may as well include your old glasses in the deal and pick up the more common cheaper varieties such as the XPand X105-RF-X1.
For some reason, JVC decided to change to vertical orientation, when they produced a new model, because they first made this change, over two years ago, when they brought out the RS4500. Now these new models are also vertical. I do not know why the switch, but it is going to get confusing for the layperson, when it comes to 3D.
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post #5051 of 14043 Old 02-09-2019, 07:18 AM
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For some reason, JVC decided to change to vertical orientation, when they produced a new model, because they first made this change, over two years ago, when they brought out the RS4500. Now these new models are also vertical. I do not know why the switch, but it is going to get confusing for the layperson, when it comes to 3D.
I'm thankful they still give us 3D. Try and find a flat screen TV that still has 3D I still have my LGC6 and will never part with it. The best Passive 3D I've seen.
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post #5052 of 14043 Old 02-09-2019, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Clark Burk View Post
That's my point. Until we get some actual measurements it's impossible to say. If you set the iris to zero and use high lamp, are the NX5(RS1000) and NX7(RS2000) very close in performance with contrast and brightness? Is native of the NX7 double that of the NX5 and is it slightly brighter as the specks would have you believe? This is what I'd like to know.
With only 100 lumens of difference, bulb differences will come into play. As in some 1000's will probably be brighter than some 2000's, but if the specs are correct, on average, the 2000's will be brighter.
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post #5053 of 14043 Old 02-09-2019, 07:30 AM
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They both have Dynamic Iris, which solely operates in the lens. The difference is that RS2000 also has a lamp iris in front of the lamp whose position is adjusted based on the "manual" setting chosen in the menus.



For me personally 100 lumens comes out in the wash. It is just over 5% light output increase, almost imperceptible on screen.



The big reason to get the RS2000 is the LAMP IRIS which gives higher native contrast, and the ability (reportedly) to hit 100% of DCI P3 with the addition of the colour filter (though that will use a reasonably significant number of lumens).


Okay so I bought into the Lens Iris thing and upgraded from my original pre-order of NX5 to NX7.

But I recently got a 130 inch 16:9 screen with approx ~1 gain - and I find that for this large screen I have to set the iris at -3 or so for SDR (709 profile no color filter) with low lamp.

For HDR I obviously have to run with iris at 0 (HDR profile no color filter)

So question is that would I have been as good if I had bought a NX5 given I am hardly using the Lens Iris or am I gaining any other benefit from the upgrade


Another question when the Auto Iris clamps down (e.g. Lucy 10% 20% scenes or Star Wars IV - Star Destroyer on black field) the white on the screen take a little bit of yellowing hue. This goes away when regular content is playing. Is it to be expected or something off with my color or gamma calibration?

Thanks for any advice !

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post #5054 of 14043 Old 02-09-2019, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by yankiy View Post
The only annoying thing so far....

When you first turn on the projector, the convergence is off quite a bit... but after about a 30 minute warm up, all goes back to normal.

I wonder if it will ever settle... I have 25 hours on the bulb already...


I have the same thing but it goes away in -approx 10 mins


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post #5055 of 14043 Old 02-09-2019, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by rg4471 View Post
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Originally Posted by malba2366 View Post
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Originally Posted by grendelrt View Post
I wrote it down from that post to buy some myself since he didn't like the standard length, it was M5 x 30mm bolts.
It came with m5x20mm bolts. Not sure why you need the 30 mm ones.
I considered it cheap insurance. 😄. One of my other hobbies is cars and with as few threads were actually engaged, if I tried to secure the plate to my PJ, I figured I would strip the inserts. Seen it too many times w cars.
Interesting. The included bolts seem plenty long enough but I guess that will depend on the shape/depth of the holes on the projector.

One thing that I found annoying with the Chief mount, or maybe I am installing it incorrectly - but when flush mounting to joists if you fully tighten the bolts to the joists the mount loses its ability to rotate. For now I have the bolts loosened a half turn to allow rotation but then I can induce a slight wiggle in the mount.

Expecting a NX7 to put on on the mount either Monday or Tuesday. For now the spinability of my mount will have to keep me entertained.
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post #5056 of 14043 Old 02-09-2019, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by yankiy View Post
The only annoying thing so far....

When you first turn on the projector, the convergence is off quite a bit... but after about a 30 minute warm up, all goes back to normal.

I wonder if it will ever settle... I have 25 hours on the bulb already...
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Originally Posted by tommarra View Post
I have the same thing but it goes away in -approx 10 mins


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10 min seems pretty fine to me, 30 min is a little much though :/
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post #5057 of 14043 Old 02-09-2019, 08:02 AM
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If you have your ATV 4K video set at 4K HDR/60Hz then that banding is normal when playing music. In fact, it's present when the ATV 4K video is set at 4K SDR/60Hz as well and on any display, including LED TVs. Make sure you have your ATV 4K set with Frame Rate and Dynamic Range set to ON. If you want to know if you get banding with video content, play the SUMMIT Entertainment Intro (A Lionsgate Company) that you find on "Hacksaw Ridge" and look at the white sides gradients or "Billy Lynn's Long Half Time Walk" min 31:10 and look at the sky on the top left side.
Got it. Also, switching to 4:2:0 on the ATV 4K reduced most of the banding I was seeing — still there but more stepped than with 4:2:2.
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post #5058 of 14043 Old 02-09-2019, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by tommarra View Post
Okay so I bought into the Lens Iris thing and upgraded from my original pre-order of NX5 to NX7.

But I recently got a 130 inch 16:9 screen with approx ~1 gain - and I find that for this large screen I have to set the iris at -3 or so for SDR (709 profile no color filter) with low lamp.

For HDR I obviously have to run with iris at 0 (HDR profile no color filter)

So question is that would I have been as good if I had bought a NX5 given I am hardly using the Lens Iris or am I gaining any other benefit from the upgrade


Another question when the Auto Iris clamps down (e.g. Lucy 10% 20% scenes or Star Wars IV - Star Destroyer on black field) the white on the screen take a little bit of yellowing hue. This goes away when regular content is playing. Is it to be expected or something off with my color or gamma calibration?

Thanks for any advice !
Almost certainly yes, you will be gaining some, as even like for like wide open the contrast of the 7 should be higher than the 5; plus you'd have had to be a bit wider open on the X5 than the X7 for the same light output.. On the previous DLA-X series wide open contrast was almost a factor of 2 greater for X7 vs X5.

Early days, but it is possible using autocal might help aleviate some of the shifting colour cast you're seeing with DI. DI is a trick though and it has to do some gamma manipulation; if you're sensitive to things happening in the image that weren't on disk then it's not great and you might end up disabling the DI. I'm one such person - my eye has a knack for spotting things that are out of place or unusual and pesters me until I look into it.
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post #5059 of 14043 Old 02-09-2019, 08:13 AM
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Hello all

Just received my new rs2000 last night. Since I’ve been without a PJ for 4 months I’ve all of sudden become stupid. My previous PJ was an RS 620 and with Kscape and 125” scope screen the picture would fill the screen. Now with new PJ I can’t get Kscape to fill the screen I have it zoomed all the way out. What am I doing wrong?

Thank you

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post #5060 of 14043 Old 02-09-2019, 08:13 AM
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Bought 6. 🙂

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post #5061 of 14043 Old 02-09-2019, 08:16 AM
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Hello all

Just received my new rs2000 last night. Since I’ve been without a PJ for 4 months I’ve all of sudden become stupid. My previous PJ was an RS 620 and with Kscape and 125” scope screen the picture would fill the screen. Now with new PJ I can’t get Kscape to fill the screen I have it zoomed all the way out. What am I doing wrong?

Thank you

FYI. Ver 1.20
The projector is native 17:9, if running in native mode you will need to overscan the screen slightly so 16:9 content fills the screen. Or you will need to set the projector to a 16:9 mode that stretches the signal to 17:9.
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post #5062 of 14043 Old 02-09-2019, 08:19 AM
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The projector is native 17:9, if running in native mode you will need to overscan the screen slightly so 16:9 content fills the screen. Or you will need to set the projector to a 16:9 mode that stretches the signal to 17:9.
Thank you. Makes sense but how do I do that in the projector menu?

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post #5063 of 14043 Old 02-09-2019, 08:26 AM
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Thank you. Makes sense but how do I do that in the projector menu?
Whenever jvc finally decides to ship mine I will let you know I am sure someone would know but you can overscan using the pattern and zoom in the mean time, I plan on overscanning since my walls are velvet.
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post #5064 of 14043 Old 02-09-2019, 08:33 AM
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Here is a screen shot from Pacific Rim Uprising...

This is with the filter off and tone mapping enabled with 0 adjustment on the slider.
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post #5065 of 14043 Old 02-09-2019, 09:07 AM
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I have this title and can provide some feedback once I get the RS2000 set up, hopefully over the weekend. It looked great on the RS600 in the velvet pit.
Not so patiently waiting for your thoughts Hopefully you got your RS2000 and it is so good you just can't pull away from it.

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post #5066 of 14043 Old 02-09-2019, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by cogdok View Post
Interesting. The included bolts seem plenty long enough but I guess that will depend on the shape/depth of the holes on the projector.

One thing that I found annoying with the Chief mount, or maybe I am installing it incorrectly - but when flush mounting to joists if you fully tighten the bolts to the joists the mount loses its ability to rotate. For now I have the bolts loosened a half turn to allow rotation but then I can induce a slight wiggle in the mount.

Expecting a NX7 to put on on the mount either Monday or Tuesday. For now the spinability of my mount will have to keep me entertained.
That is correct with the cheaper RPA, but the RPMA with gear adjustment, has free 1/4 turn rotation. And I mean free, you are not rotating the mount on pipe threads.
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post #5067 of 14043 Old 02-09-2019, 09:26 AM
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I’ve also noticed that a lot of the movies do not have metadata to use for auto tone mapping... The Black Panther does not, so I had to use my own config for it.
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JVC DLA-NX9 | Panasonic UB820 | Denon AVR-X6400H | Rotel RB 993 Amp | 135" 2:35:1 Elunevision Aurora NanoEdge Ambient Light Blocking Screen | Paradigm Monitor 11 v7, Monitor Center 3 v7, Monitor Surround 3 v7, CI Pro P65-R |
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post #5068 of 14043 Old 02-09-2019, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post

That is correct with the cheaper RPA, but the RPMA with gear adjustment, has free 1/4 turn rotation. And I mean free, you are not rotating the mount on pipe threads.
I have the RPMA - this one -
https://www.amazon.com/Chief-RPMA281.../dp/B004SU2LD2

If it was pole mounted it would freely rotate but the bolts through the joist mounting holes when tight prevent the free spinning. They hold the two pieces that are supposed to spin on each other too tightly together. Keeping them a touch loose allows free rotation with the gear system. I would pole mount but dont have the head clearance.
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post #5069 of 14043 Old 02-09-2019, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by grendelrt View Post
Whenever jvc finally decides to ship mine I will let you know I am sure someone would know but you can overscan using the pattern and zoom in the mean time, I plan on overscanning since my walls are velvet.
Figured it out by using the zoom function in the PJ menu under aspect.

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post #5070 of 14043 Old 02-09-2019, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by yankiy View Post
I’ve also noticed that a lot of the movies do not have metadata to use for auto tone mapping... The Black Panther does not, so I had to use my own config for it.
I'm curious what the JVC defaults to when it doesn't see any metadata? Were those your adjustments to the picture tone and the pic was the result of that?

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