Official JVC RS3000/NX9 - JVC RS2000/NX7/N7 - JVC RS1000/NX5/N5 - Owners Thread - Page 185 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5521 of 19444 Old 02-13-2019, 09:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yankiy View Post
For anyone playing 3D content on their new projectors... I have a question...

I’m projecting on a 135” CinemaScope screen (2.35:1). I also have the paladin A lens. So for scope movies I set it to mode A ( mine is not the DCR so can’t really use mode C). For regular 16x9 content I use the OFF mode. In both methods, the projected image takes up the entire scope screen.

However, when I play 3D content, regardless of the mode I select, the image puts huge black bars to the left and right of the screen and only uses the middle portion of the screen. Changing the modes only changes the height and zoom within the new screen area.

I have a Panasonic UB9000.

I’m not sure if this is a result of the player or the projector.

Worst case scenario, I guess I can zoom up the image to fill the screen and store it as a new install mode, but that will end up masking off a lot of the image.
So I figured out my issue... it was the mask I had applied to remove the overspill. It’s weird, this only becomes a problem when watching 3D. I got around it by creating a new install mode and disabling the mask.
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post #5522 of 19444 Old 02-13-2019, 09:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Cutter View Post
So I was reading about the Paladin DCR anamorphic lens and Have a question. It says that there is a barrel shaped distortion when using the shorter 1.4x screen width throw distance. I have a 148" scope screen so doing some calculations it comes to a 16' throw which is about where the front of my RS2000 will be when I get get. Would this be a deal breaker? I'm not sure that I would be able to deal with this barrel distortion. If it's not a big deal how much are these lens? I've heard people saying that "B" stock is available at times for less, how much less is this as I understand these are very expensive. Thanks.
What's the width of the image / screen ? I have a 1.41:1 throw with my RS4500 and DCR lens. The barrel distortion is slight. and you can just overscan it into the black borders on the side. It's no big deal. I have an electric screen, so my black borders aren't nearly as dark as they would be on a fixed screen. You can barely see it on the left side on the very brightest part of the picture -



Once the picture gets even a little dark, you can't see it -

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post #5523 of 19444 Old 02-13-2019, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yankiy View Post
So I figured out my issue... it was the mask I had applied to remove the overspill. It’s weird, this only becomes a problem when watching 3D. I got around it by creating a new install mode and disabling the mask.
Am I correct to assume that your new Xpand glasses have solved your dimness problem?
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post #5524 of 19444 Old 02-13-2019, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by dlinsley View Post
Here's how mine is attached to the RS3000, including the two small plastic screws for the front.





Gotcha. So you used the back “J” holes along with the side holes for the plastic screws. I’ll try that. Which bolts did you use for the thumb screws and did you use a plastic spacer/washer in between? Any pics of how it attaches to the lens itself?
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post #5525 of 19444 Old 02-13-2019, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
Did not say it did. The problem the JVC is having sounds like a gamma problem. Not something you can calibrate out. I was just agreeing with what bob was saying regarding calibration in general.


:-) my bad

Come on JVC fix this immediately


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post #5526 of 19444 Old 02-13-2019, 09:55 PM
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Congratulations! Love hearing about another perfect unit. Hoping to place an order soon so anxiously watching how these are turning out for people.
Their where only a few bad units that I saw which is going to happen on any production run.
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post #5527 of 19444 Old 02-13-2019, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docrog View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by yankiy View Post
So I figured out my issue... it was the mask I had applied to remove the overspill. It’s weird, this only becomes a problem when watching 3D. I got around it by creating a new install mode and disabling the mask.
Am I correct to assume that your new Xpand glasses have solved your dimness problem?
Yes very much so! Love these glasses, not only are they lighter than the JVC, but they are more comfortable too.

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post #5528 of 19444 Old 02-13-2019, 10:39 PM
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Apparently my replacement rs3000 was shipped via freight. Nice.


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post #5529 of 19444 Old 02-13-2019, 10:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig Peer View Post
What's the width of the image / screen ? I have a 1.41:1 throw with my RS4500 and DCR lens. The barrel distortion is slight. and you can just overscan it into the black borders on the side. It's no big deal. I have an electric screen, so my black borders aren't nearly as dark as they would be on a fixed screen. You can barely see it on the left side on the very brightest part of the picture -



Once the picture gets even a little dark, you can't see it -

Thanks! Without measuring it I see on Projector Central that the width of my 148" scope screen is 137".

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post #5530 of 19444 Old 02-14-2019, 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Drem View Post
I am happy to report that my replacement N7 is perfect. Convergence was spot on. No adjustment needed. DI is completely silent. Build date is January. I think the same batch as some posted above. I am a happy camper again and enjoying this magical N7 picture Firmware version is 1.19.



The only thing bothering me is that it is not exactly matching the last pjs max zoom. In max zoom mode, I still miss about 4cms on each side of my 2.40:1 screen. Just by a hair.. but not really noticable when watching movies. I guess I need to move the pj back a few inches, but its quite the job when ceiling mounted.







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Yep. You have the same batch as mine.





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post #5531 of 19444 Old 02-14-2019, 12:25 AM
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Originally Posted by desray2k View Post
Yep. You have the same batch as mine.





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Just out of curiosity, I wonder why the serial numbers look so different from the first ones. From 153400XX (MY 10 2018) to 064400XX (MY 01 2019)
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post #5532 of 19444 Old 02-14-2019, 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by ScottieBoysName View Post
Gotcha. So you used the back “J” holes along with the side holes for the plastic screws. I’ll try that. Which bolts did you use for the thumb screws and did you use a plastic spacer/washer in between? Any pics of how it attaches to the lens itself?
I needed to use the mid-size spacers to get the lens in the approximate location, with enough adjustment to then go up or down as needed to dial it in (with a slight down angle on the lens). I'd previously tried the larger spacers - which were too large, the lens was too far down - and I just left the longer bolts in even though I could have used the mid-size bolts. I'd have had to disconnect the bracket from the lens again, and I just wanted to try the mid-size spacers

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post #5533 of 19444 Old 02-14-2019, 12:33 AM
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Just out of curiosity, I wonder why the serial numbers look so different from the first ones. From 153400XX (MY 10 2018) to 064400XX (MY 01 2019)
The serial numbers are a code:
First 2 digits - 5 = month number
3rd digit - 5 = last digit in year.

153400xx = 15 - 5 = 10 (october) 3-5 = 13-5 = 8 for 2018 - october 2018
064400xx = 06-5 = 1 (january) 4-5 = 14-5 = 9 for 2019 - january 2019
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post #5534 of 19444 Old 02-14-2019, 12:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Drem View Post
I am happy to report that my replacement N7 is perfect. Convergence was spot on. No adjustment needed. DI is completely silent. Build date is January. I think the same batch as some posted above. I am a happy camper again and enjoying this magical N7 picture Firmware version is 1.19.

The only thing bothering me is that it is not exactly matching the last pjs max zoom. In max zoom mode, I still miss about 4cms on each side of my 2.40:1 screen. Just by a hair.. but not really noticable when watching movies. I guess I need to move the pj back a few inches, but its quite the job when ceiling mounted.
Can you zoom to the full 17x9 panel since you're using a scope screen? (Or are you already doing that).
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post #5535 of 19444 Old 02-14-2019, 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
The serial numbers are a code:
First 2 digits - 5 = month number
3rd digit - 5 = last digit in year.

153400xx = 15 - 5 = 10 (october) 3-5 = 13-5 = 8 for 2018 - october 2018
064400xx = 06-5 = 1 (january) 4-5 = 14-5 = 9 for 2019 - january 2019
Ah, now it makes sense

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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
Can you zoom to the full 17x9 panel since you're using a scope screen? (Or are you already doing that).
Im not exactly sure what you mean. I am at max zoom on the projector (aspect Zoom in pj menu) and on the source (Oppo 203) I tried all available ratios. Still missing about an inch on each side.

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post #5536 of 19444 Old 02-14-2019, 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Jim Cutter View Post
So I was reading about the Paladin DCR anamorphic lens and Have a question. It says that there is a barrel shaped distortion when using the shorter 1.4x screen width throw distance. I have a 148" scope screen so doing some calculations it comes to a 16' throw which is about where the front of my RS2000 will be when I get get. Would this be a deal breaker? I'm not sure that I would be able to deal with this barrel distortion. If it's not a big deal how much are these lens? I've heard people saying that "B" stock is available at times for less, how much less is this as I understand these are very expensive. Thanks.
As Craig mentions, the distortion is not much even at short throw. I'm at about 1.43:1, 172" from a 120" wide, and here is a over exposed snap of the focus/zoom pattern shooting onto the frame. You can just make out the center of top/bottom/sides is about 1/2" further out than the corners.

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post #5537 of 19444 Old 02-14-2019, 01:38 AM
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So currently still no dates for the N7 and NX9 to hit the German market. At ISE JVC told dealers delivery is end of February to beginning of March but this seems to be up in the air again!
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post #5538 of 19444 Old 02-14-2019, 01:59 AM
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It is getting ridiculous.
But on the other hand, if we get them sooner and would have to deal with blooming, streaking, clicking irises, color splotches, blue stripes, uncorrectable convergence or yellow tints while using the DI we wouldn't be much happier.
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post #5539 of 19444 Old 02-14-2019, 02:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Drem View Post
Ah, now it makes sense



Im not exactly sure what you mean. I am at max zoom on the projector (aspect Zoom in pj menu) and on the source (Oppo 203) I tried all available ratios. Still missing about an inch on each side.
So when you pull up the green grid and try to do zoom, the side bars on the grid are barely 4 cm short of hitting the sides of the screen as it is now? If so yea, you'll need to pull your projector back a few inches or shim your screen forward a few inches.

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post #5540 of 19444 Old 02-14-2019, 02:42 AM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
I don't think LCoS are susceptible to burn-in. They might be susceptible to image retention, but I don't think this is a problem with black bars, and it's also not permanent. So the side masks shouldn't be a concern. Further, if you have a 16x9 screen and always use the projector in 16x9 mode, you may not care even if there was burn in you'd never see it.
You’re probably right. I just know I’ve seen LCD screens with either burn-in or something on a few Tesla instrument cluster screens.

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post #5541 of 19444 Old 02-14-2019, 03:09 AM
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Originally Posted by jeahrens View Post
There is a mode that crops the top/bottom and scales the image to the width with no distortion. EDIT: answered on the following page you set the aspect ratio to Zoom instead of Auto. You could safely use this mode on any AR 1.9:1 or wider with no cropping. This is of course used without an anamorphic lens, but should be a nice plus for those of us with a scope screen that use lens memory as using the extra panel area will add brightness.

With a lens built for 16:9 you would use the anamorphic mode in the projector that scales to the 16:9 panel area. There is also a mode that scales to 17:9, but that requires a lens like the Paladin DCR which is a 1.24 lens.
Thanks, the Zoom mode is what I imagined existed, but it seems some members prefer to zoom optically to avoid any scaling artifact. I’m torn between maximizing the panel and being pixel perfect. ARRRRRGH!!!

As for scope ratio, running at 3840x2160 and stretching 1.33x is affordable and nets me 24% extra brightness (lose 6.25% by not zooming to full panel width, gain 32% using full panel height) over just zooming and cropping alone, plus requires no horizontal scaling for less scaling artifacts. I don’t know if I want to spend an extra $3-5K on a DCR over a Prismasonic just for 6.25% more brightness by using the full panel. The Prismasonic seems like a great bang for the buck solution and is more pixel-accurate to boot.

I’m probably overthinking it, but isn’t that we do here?

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post #5542 of 19444 Old 02-14-2019, 03:24 AM
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Thx Docrog
Whats your room like - is it such that it would allow you to notice the deterioration in CR? Am I right to understand that on your Oppo, you cant use darbee when outputting to 4k (my standalone Darbee can't handle 4k so im choosing between RS6710 and darbee vs N7 and no darbee). When you say the image is superior -could u pls elaborate as to how? MANY thanks
My viewing room is exceptionally well controlled for ambient lighting (I can't see my hand in front of my face), but it's not a Bat Cave. The screen descends from the ceiling in an alcove and I've hung 3' deep non-reflective black cloth panels at right angles to the outside edges of the screen which extend to the edges of the alcove; they do a very good job of absorbing most of the light from the screen. The cabinet surface below the screen is painted non-reflective dark green and the carpet between the screen and main viewing position is covered by a dark Persian area rug which does not reflect a significant component of light from the screen. The ceiling is painted with a matte mocha color which does as reasonable job of limiting light reflection. I think that, in this setting, I can be reasonably sensitive to contrast levels.

I've contacted Oppo and they confirmed that, with the 103D, Darbee processing could first be applied to DVD or Blu Ray source material and then output at 4k x 2k. When Darbee is used judiciously it is (IMHO) far better then applying any edge enhancements or sharpness (etc.) settings in other players or the projector, itself. It's hard for me to characterize how the 103D's upscaled 1080p image appears superior to, for example, a 1080p Blu Ray which is upscaled in the PJ or Panasonic UB900. I guess that it boils down to whether or not one initially prefers a Darbee processed image over a non-processed HD Blu Ray to begin with. You appear to own a stand alone Darbee processor, so I assume that you find the processed image to be superior to plain vanilla legacy video. So, just imagine beginning the UHD upscaling process with the already Darbee processed image and you can get some appreciation for the final product. I have found that upscaling at the 103D seems "less busy" than applying Darbee processing and then outputting at 480p (DVD) or 1080p (HD BR) in order to have the NX7 upscale to UHD. Perhaps this is related to whatever UHD upscaling algorithm Oppo makes use of relative to what is inherent in the JVC.

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post #5543 of 19444 Old 02-14-2019, 03:30 AM
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Hi, i am not sure if there was resolved problem about 3D glasses and they polarization. Old JVC 3D glasses works on "horizontal polarization" and new native JVC works on diferent polarization "vertical"? I tryed found some info on oficial JVC site but nothink. And if this is true, doest exist some idela 3D glasses who will works?

There are so many pages in this topic for found somethink usable :-)

Thanks
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post #5544 of 19444 Old 02-14-2019, 03:39 AM
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Yes very much so! Love these glasses, not only are they lighter than the JVC, but they are more comfortable too.
Can you tellme please exact model reference number of the Xpand galsses? I have a black diamond screen it is not a polarized screen, do you know if they will work on this screen?
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post #5545 of 19444 Old 02-14-2019, 04:22 AM
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So when you pull up the green grid and try to do zoom, the side bars on the grid are barely 4 cm short of hitting the sides of the screen as it is now? If so yea, you'll need to pull your projector back a few inches or shim your screen forward a few inches.
Yes exactly. The first PJ I got did almost reach, maybe 1 cm away from the border. It was barely noticable, but at 3-4cm one begin to notice. But I am so happy the replacement unit is perfect in every other way so this does not bother me too much right now. I will move the PJ back a few inches somewhere down the road though
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post #5546 of 19444 Old 02-14-2019, 05:40 AM
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Originally Posted by dlinsley View Post
I needed to use the mid-size spacers to get the lens in the approximate location, with enough adjustment to then go up or down as needed to dial it in (with a slight down angle on the lens). I'd previously tried the larger spacers - which were too large, the lens was too far down - and I just left the longer bolts in even though I could have used the mid-size bolts. I'd have had to disconnect the bracket from the lens again, and I just wanted to try the mid-size spacers





Thanks! For some reason when I use those mid size spacers it ends up crooked with one side higher than the other. Very odd. I notice that your DCR is pretty close to your projector lens. I need to try that too.
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post #5547 of 19444 Old 02-14-2019, 05:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dlinsley View Post
I needed to use the mid-size spacers to get the lens in the approximate location, with enough adjustment to then go up or down as needed to dial it in (with a slight down angle on the lens). I'd previously tried the larger spacers - which were too large, the lens was too far down - and I just left the longer bolts in even though I could have used the mid-size bolts. I'd have had to disconnect the bracket from the lens again, and I just wanted to try the mid-size spacers

Is that their housing, or did you make some kind of adapter? Looks 3D printed! Viva la revolucion!
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post #5548 of 19444 Old 02-14-2019, 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by bobof View Post
Is that their housing, or did you make some kind of adapter? Looks 3D printed! Viva la revolucion!
No, you pay thousands for that type of finish from Panamorph.
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post #5549 of 19444 Old 02-14-2019, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by yankiy View Post
Yes very much so! Love these glasses, not only are they lighter than the JVC, but they are more comfortable too.
Hi, can I check the model of the Xpand 3D active shutter glasses that you bought? Can also provide the link to the purchase site as well. Thanks!
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post #5550 of 19444 Old 02-14-2019, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom Bley View Post
No, you pay thousands for that type of finish from Panamorph.
I'm soooo in the wrong business...
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