Official JVC RS3000/NX9 - JVC RS2000/NX7/N7 - JVC RS1000/NX5/N5 - Owners Thread - Page 186 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5551 of 17692 Old 02-14-2019, 05:26 AM
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Originally Posted by bobof View Post
Is that their housing, or did you make some kind of adapter? Looks 3D printed! Viva la revolucion!
No, you pay thousands for that type of finish from Panamorph.
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post #5552 of 17692 Old 02-14-2019, 05:28 AM
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Originally Posted by yankiy View Post
Yes very much so! Love these glasses, not only are they lighter than the JVC, but they are more comfortable too.
Hi, can I check the model of the Xpand 3D active shutter glasses that you bought? Can also provide the link to the purchase site as well. Thanks!
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post #5553 of 17692 Old 02-14-2019, 05:51 AM
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No, you pay thousands for that type of finish from Panamorph.
I'm soooo in the wrong business...
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post #5554 of 17692 Old 02-14-2019, 06:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Cutter View Post
So I was reading about the Paladin DCR anamorphic lens and Have a question. It says that there is a barrel shaped distortion when using the shorter 1.4x screen width throw distance. I have a 148" scope screen so doing some calculations it comes to a 16' throw which is about where the front of my RS2000 will be when I get get. Would this be a deal breaker? I'm not sure that I would be able to deal with this barrel distortion. If it's not a big deal how much are these lens? I've heard people saying that "B" stock is available at times for less, how much less is this as I understand these are very expensive. Thanks.
An A-lens always causes a little bit of image distortion. The longer the throw, the less distortion. But when watching movies, you do not notice this distortion. You are right at minimum throw of 1.4.
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post #5555 of 17692 Old 02-14-2019, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Craig Peer View Post
What's the width of the image / screen ? I have a 1.41:1 throw with my RS4500 and DCR lens. The barrel distortion is slight. and you can just overscan it into the black borders on the side. It's no big deal. I have an electric screen, so my black borders aren't nearly as dark as they would be on a fixed screen. You can barely see it on the left side on the very brightest part of the picture -
Could you not apply a tiny bit of masking to hide that and just have that stored in a lens memory?
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post #5556 of 17692 Old 02-14-2019, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by KarlKlammer View Post
It is getting ridiculous.
But on the other hand, if we get them sooner and would have to deal with blooming, streaking, clicking irises, color splotches, blue stripes, uncorrectable convergence or yellow tints while using the DI we wouldn't be much happier.
Well they may be refined by then, we will see. One thing is for certain, I have not seen an item made to date that is glitch free......

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I'm soooo in the wrong business...
Some times you get what you pay for Not always though.
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post #5557 of 17692 Old 02-14-2019, 06:29 AM
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Originally Posted by dlinsley View Post
I needed to use the mid-size spacers to get the lens in the approximate location, with enough adjustment to then go up or down as needed to dial it in (with a slight down angle on the lens). I'd previously tried the larger spacers - which were too large, the lens was too far down - and I just left the longer bolts in even though I could have used the mid-size bolts. I'd have had to disconnect the bracket from the lens again, and I just wanted to try the mid-size spacers
The 3000 lens makes the DCR lens look small.
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post #5558 of 17692 Old 02-14-2019, 06:40 AM
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Add me to the list of people who sees the shift toward yellow when DI is engaged with a small amount of white content on a black background. Turning on the menu brings it back to white. I've also noticed the image gets softer. Watching that transition from really close to the screen I believe I'm seeing the iris mechanism in the image. It's not just a general blurriness but more of a diamond-shaped starburst effect. Like a subtle version of a star effect filter on an SLR camera.

This effect wasn't noticeable at all during several hours of watching various content but then it showed up on a loading screen for a video game. I imagine it would be distracting on the space shots that are often benchmarks for high contrast projectors and a good place to show off DI so I hope JVC can address it.

RS 2000, 1/19, 1.20 firmware
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post #5559 of 17692 Old 02-14-2019, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Drem View Post
I am happy to report that my replacement N7 is perfect. Convergence was spot on. No adjustment needed. DI is completely silent. Build date is January. I think the same batch as some posted above. I am a happy camper again and enjoying this magical N7 picture Firmware version is 1.19.

The only thing bothering me is that it is not exactly matching the last pjs max zoom. In max zoom mode, I still miss about 4cms on each side of my 2.40:1 screen. Just by a hair.. but not really noticable when watching movies. I guess I need to move the pj back a few inches, but its quite the job when ceiling mounted.



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Glad your new unit is performing more as expected and that you're enjoying it.

This is a new product and bound to have its hiccups, but (from where I stand) it seems JVC is realistically doing what can be done to get a reliable product into our hands...not fantastically as some seem to expect. Maybe JVC hasn't cleared its first hurdle yet, but it doesn't appear like JVC has quit trying to make things right. And even when they do "get it right", I'm sure there will still be nits to pick.

My pre-order priority is near the end of the line, so I'm hoping that JVC has gotten more of the kinks sorted when my RS2000 is built and ships...hopefully in another month or so. And if it's a good unit, I'll enjoy the hell out it. If it's not, well, I'll give JVC the chance to make it right...which seems like what they're doing.
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Last edited by Todd G.; 02-14-2019 at 07:26 AM.
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post #5560 of 17692 Old 02-14-2019, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by desray2k View Post
Hi, can I check the model of the Xpand 3D active shutter glasses that you bought? Can also provide the link to the purchase site as well. Thanks!
Just do a search for:
XPAND X105-RF-X1 Rechargeable 3D RF/Bluetooth Glasses
They are much more common than the JVC glasses and much cheaper around the $40 mark.

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post #5561 of 17692 Old 02-14-2019, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
Could you not apply a tiny bit of masking to hide that and just have that stored in a lens memory?
What % of light output can you expect to gain by using the A-Lens?

Is the benefit solely to be able to use the full panel to project the image ... same brightness as if using the Zoom mode in Aspect ratio? Or something else?


I am afraid I dont really understand the purpose of A-lens and benefits - would realy appreciate a quick primer :-)

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post #5562 of 17692 Old 02-14-2019, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by davidahn View Post
Thanks, the Zoom mode is what I imagined existed, but it seems some members prefer to zoom optically to avoid any scaling artifact. I’m torn between maximizing the panel and being pixel perfect. ARRRRRGH!!!

As for scope ratio, running at 3840x2160 and stretching 1.33x is affordable and nets me 24% extra brightness (lose 6.25% by not zooming to full panel width, gain 32% using full panel height) over just zooming and cropping alone, plus requires no horizontal scaling for less scaling artifacts. I don’t know if I want to spend an extra $3-5K on a DCR over a Prismasonic just for 6.25% more brightness by using the full panel. The Prismasonic seems like a great bang for the buck solution and is more pixel-accurate to boot.

I’m probably overthinking it, but isn’t that we do here?
I'd say there is more scaling going on using an anamorphic mode with a lens then what the zoom function is doing (zoom is slightly scaling horizontally/vertically and just clipping a few pixel rows top/bottom vs. aggressive scaling vertically in an anamorphic mode). And we've only been hearing glowing reviews of these units (and the RS4500) when used with a lens. Look at any of Craig's screenshots and any fears of scaling should be put to rest.

Now the question of should you use a lens or zooming/lens memory comes down to budget. If you can afford a good lens it's certainly going to give you the brightest experience and is no doubt the best route to go. If I could justify the expense vs. the gain I'd have one.


Last edited by jeahrens; 02-14-2019 at 07:38 AM.
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post #5563 of 17692 Old 02-14-2019, 07:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommarra View Post
What % of light output can you expect to gain by using the A-Lens?

Is the benefit solely to be able to use the full panel to project the image ... same brightness as if using the Zoom mode in Aspect ratio? Or something else?


I am afraid I dont really understand the purpose of A-lens and benefits - would realy appreciate a quick primer :-)
Counting use of the full panel and the DCR lens, you can gain around 35/38% light output for scope content.
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post #5564 of 17692 Old 02-14-2019, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by tommarra View Post
What % of light output can you expect to gain by using the A-Lens?

Is the benefit solely to be able to use the full panel to project the image ... same brightness as if using the Zoom mode in Aspect ratio? Or something else?


I am afraid I dont really understand the purpose of A-lens and benefits - would realy appreciate a quick primer :-)
So these projectors have a 17:9 panel with a resolution of 4096x2160. When showing your average 2.40:1 film you are using either 4096x1710 (Aspect Ratio: Zoom) or 3840x1600 (Aspect Ratio:Auto). The Aspect Ratio:Zoom function is scaling the 16:9 frame to fill the 17:9 panel.

The panel has 8,847,360 pixels (4096 * 2160). The zoomed picture uses 80% of these and the non-scaled (auto) uses 70% of these pixels. So your light output is going to be reduced significantly when only using 70-80% of the panel.

There are 2 main components to using a lens. The first is you select the Anamorphic mode on projector that is proper for your lens. What this does is stretch the scope picture vertically so there are no black bars. And this leaves you with a distorted picture filling the panel. What the anamorphic lens does is correct this distorted picture back to it's original geometry and fill the scope screen properly. Because you are using the entire panel of the projector the light you were losing is now almost entirely gained back.
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post #5565 of 17692 Old 02-14-2019, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by mattztt View Post
Add me to the list of people who sees the shift toward yellow when DI is engaged with a small amount of white content on a black background. Turning on the menu brings it back to white. I've also noticed the image gets softer. Watching that transition from really close to the screen I believe I'm seeing the iris mechanism in the image. It's not just a general blurriness but more of a diamond-shaped starburst effect. Like a subtle version of a star effect filter on an SLR camera.

This effect wasn't noticeable at all during several hours of watching various content but then it showed up on a loading screen for a video game. I imagine it would be distracting on the space shots that are often benchmarks for high contrast projectors and a good place to show off DI so I hope JVC can address it.

RS 2000, 1/19, 1.20 firmware
Is this the kind of starburst effect you saw? I also saw it with the text during the start of Gravity, though this shot of the Oppo pause symbol (paused while the Gravity text is showing) captures the effect. The projector had to have been on for a while though, watching right after turn on it wasn't there. That was with only 3-4h on the unit, but DJDee suggested his calmed down after 40-60 hours of use. I've not seen it in any other content, but haven't gone back to check if it has now gone until I have 60 hours (about 35 now).



I

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post #5566 of 17692 Old 02-14-2019, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
Counting use of the full panel and the DCR lens, you can gain around 35/38% light output for scope content.
I don't think use of the full panel should be included in the gains claimed for DCR vs no lens as most folks are going to be using the full panel regardless for wide content; certainly anyone who would use it for DCR would not have a compunction about using it without DCR as the DCR won't save you from scaling artifacts which would be the only reason to not use the full panel.

Just using the full panel gets you a 6% gain over the same image projected without using the same panel. The DCR gain on a 2.35:1 zoomed image already using the full panel is going to be closer to 25%.

That's based on the proportion of the panel used to project the image and doesn't consider any possible losses in the lens itself.
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post #5567 of 17692 Old 02-14-2019, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by dlinsley View Post
Is this the kind of starburst effect you saw? I also saw it with the text during the start of Gravity, though this shot of the Oppo pause symbol (paused while the Gravity text is showing) captures the effect. The projector had to have been on for a while though, watching right after turn on it wasn't there. That was with only 3-4h on the unit, but DJDee suggested his calmed down after 40-60 hours of use. I've not seen it in any other content, but haven't gone back to check if it has now gone until I have 60 hours (about 35 now).

Spoiler!
Yes. That's exactly what I saw. I was at 8 hours on the lamp.
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post #5568 of 17692 Old 02-14-2019, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Drem View Post
Just out of curiosity, I wonder why the serial numbers look so different from the first ones. From 153400XX (MY 10 2018) to 064400XX (MY 01 2019)
I also have an RS2000 from the same batch 064400XX...
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post #5569 of 17692 Old 02-14-2019, 08:01 AM
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I used to own an Isco IIIL. Paladin dcr is way better for users projecting in short throw. I am just over 1.4x. Hopefully it will not be to long until rs3000 arrives. In the mean time i use my Lumagen to do the scaling. I remove the lens for 16:9 content and use lens memory.

Last edited by loggeo; 02-14-2019 at 08:08 AM.
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post #5570 of 17692 Old 02-14-2019, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
Could you not apply a tiny bit of masking to hide that and just have that stored in a lens memory?
That cuts off the upper and lower corners of the image. Pick your poison ( I played with that ). Considering 99% of the movie action is near the center of the screen, it's really no big deal. I'm more concerned with the top and bottom, which are nearly perfect. I pretty much adjusted the lens so that would be the case.

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post #5571 of 17692 Old 02-14-2019, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by dlinsley View Post
Is this the kind of starburst effect you saw? I also saw it with the text during the start of Gravity, though this shot of the Oppo pause symbol (paused while the Gravity text is showing) captures the effect. The projector had to have been on for a while though, watching right after turn on it wasn't there. That was with only 3-4h on the unit, but DJDee suggested his calmed down after 40-60 hours of use. I've not seen it in any other content, but haven't gone back to check if it has now gone until I have 60 hours (about 35 now).







I


I have the same thing and the added yellowing. It’s kind of expected that the aperture to have some artifact- its only visible on white on black scenes . The yellowing though is visible in any scene where the DI is engaged


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post #5572 of 17692 Old 02-14-2019, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by loggeo View Post
I used to own an Isco IIIL. Paladin dcr is way better for users projecting in short throw. I am just over 1.4x. Hopefully it will not be to long until rs3000 arrives. In the mean time i use my Lumagen to do the scaling. I remove the lens for 16:9 content and use lens memory.
Have you tried using the Lumagen to scale to 16:9 with the lens in place? If so, how did it perform?
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post #5573 of 17692 Old 02-14-2019, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Jim Cutter View Post
Thanks! Without measuring it I see on Projector Central that the width of my 148" scope screen is 137".
" I have a 148" scope screen so doing some calculations it comes to a 16' throw which is about where the front of my RS2000 will be when I get get. Would this be a deal breaker? I'm not sure that I would be able to deal with this barrel distortion."

So 1.4 screen widths would be 15.98 feet. Your good to go. And here I adjusted the lens and added just a touch of blanking on the side like Mike mentioned to make it vanish -



The 38% increase in brightness, and much higher pixel density, is so worth a tiny bit of barrel distortion !
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post #5574 of 17692 Old 02-14-2019, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by mikela View Post
Have you tried using the Lumagen to scale to 16:9 with the lens in place? If so, how did it perform?
I think we are out of topic, as this concerns eshift models, but i will answer anyway.
Yes I did. It is not an ideal situation trying to match a 17/9 alens to a 16/9 projector. It takes a custom aspect ratio to fit the image into the screen (2.22 if I can recall???) and some shrinking using lumagen.
When you do that, watching 16:9 content having the dcr in front of the projector is as simple as pressing the 4:3 aspect button on your remote.
Shrinking is not apparent, picture looks good when displaying actual content. I am sure though a simple paladin would be naturally better.
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post #5575 of 17692 Old 02-14-2019, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by bobof View Post
Is that their housing, or did you make some kind of adapter? Looks 3D printed! Viva la revolucion!
I was surprised to open my box and find a 3d printed housing for the lens... I guess the $8,999 Paladin is $8,997 of glass lens, screws, and metal brackets, and $2 of filament for the housing, lol.

But hey, I got a coffee cup and a stubby ratcheting screwdriver, so it is all worth it in the end, right? (Plus the sale was too great to pass up)


And the 3d printed glowie thing to stick on the end of the stubby screwdriver is a nice touch...

I won't be able to comment on how the lens performs until hell freezes over and I get my RS2000...


I don't regret my purchase, despite the 3d printed housing...
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post #5576 of 17692 Old 02-14-2019, 10:01 AM
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How many are waiting for their pre order nx5’s to come in? I’ve seen a bunch on here already. My dealer says he has no idea when it’s coming
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post #5577 of 17692 Old 02-14-2019, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by mikela View Post
Have you tried using the Lumagen to scale to 16:9 with the lens in place? If so, how did it perform?
It's excellent. I'm at the shortest throw, but don't notice the slight curve on the image edge unless I look for it. My family has never said anything, including last night when we watched Hotel Transylvania 3 from 4k bluray (1.85:1). Maybe with real 4k content, side by side, there would be a resolution drop if you pixel peeped, but so far the image has always looked very highly detailed.

BTW the updated auto-aspect change in the Lumagen is very good, that I've not needed to hit the 2.35:1 button since updating.
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post #5578 of 17692 Old 02-14-2019, 10:26 AM
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I am expecting another firmware update, early March. Do not know what will be on it, but good to see that JVC is making improvements.
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post #5579 of 17692 Old 02-14-2019, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
I am expecting another firmware update, early March. Do not know what will be on it, but good to see that JVC is making improvements.

I'm now on v1.20 and still have no idea what this firmware addresses. lol

JVC DLA-NX9 | Paladin Anamorphic Lens | Panasonic UB820 | Denon AVR-X6400H | Rotel RB 993 Amp | 135" 2:35:1 Elunevision Aurora NanoEdge Ambient Light Blocking Screen | Paradigm Monitor 11 v7, Monitor Center 3 v7, Monitor Surround 3 v7, CI Pro P65-R |
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post #5580 of 17692 Old 02-14-2019, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by dkersten View Post
I was surprised to open my box and find a 3d printed housing for the lens... I guess the $8,999 Paladin is $8,997 of glass lens, screws, and metal brackets, and $2 of filament for the housing, lol.

But hey, I got a coffee cup and a stubby ratcheting screwdriver, so it is all worth it in the end, right? (Plus the sale was too great to pass up)

And the 3d printed glowie thing to stick on the end of the stubby screwdriver is a nice touch...

I won't be able to comment on how the lens performs until hell freezes over and I get my RS2000...


I don't regret my purchase, despite the 3d printed housing...
Well, I have a RS-2000 but, I don't have the lens. Maybe next year.
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