Official JVC RS3000/NX9 - JVC RS2000/NX7/N7 - JVC RS1000/NX5/N5 - Owners Thread - Page 199 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5941 of 14002 Old 02-17-2019, 01:45 PM
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So to anyone here with an NX9. What player are you using? I currently have the Panasonic ub900. Would switching to a ub820 be a worthwhile move?

JVC DLA-NX9 | Panasonic UB820 | Denon AVR-X6400H | Rotel RB 993 Amp | 135" 2:35:1 Elunevision Aurora NanoEdge Ambient Light Blocking Screen | Paradigm Monitor 11 v7, Monitor Center 3 v7, Monitor Surround 3 v7, CI Pro P65-R |
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post #5942 of 14002 Old 02-17-2019, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ScottieBoysName View Post
Here’s what I see when using Anamorphic C. Looks like there is a bit of image left of all four sides.

I'm using a Lumagen to scale, so I can't play along exactly. From my understanding setting aspect ratio to " Zoom " ( page 26 ) will force the use of the entire 4096 panel width. Then, try anamorphic A . If you have a 2.40:1 screen, it will just be right. If you have a 2.35:1 screen, you will lose just a few pixels top and bottom. Try that. The bottom line is you shouldn't see black bars anywhere with a scope screen, scope movies and a DCR lens. If you do, something else in the chain may be set wrong. And you may need to use the zoom to get everything dialed in to fit the first time. Set up a user mode specifically for the lens settings.

Or, take the lens off, and see what zoom and anamorphic A does, and anamorphic C does. It should fill your screen top to bottom and side to side, with no black bars. Off = black bars. The aspect will be distorted, but the screen should be filled. Then put the lens back on and adjust zoom and focus as need be.

EDIT - I forgot - you have a 16:9 screen, don't you? I thought you were trying to fill that screen. if it's just the light outline, take the lens off and test things - I doubt the lens has anything to do with that.

Last edited by Craig Peer; 02-17-2019 at 01:59 PM.
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post #5943 of 14002 Old 02-17-2019, 02:18 PM
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I’ve noticed some posterization of skin tones in some brighter colourful scenes from time to time on my NX7. It only affects 1080p mkv files in most cases. Initially I thought the problem lies with my media players but it didn’t seem to be the case. Anyone has this experience? Usually what is the cause of it?



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post #5944 of 14002 Old 02-17-2019, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig Peer View Post
I'm using a Lumagen to scale, so I can't play along exactly. From my understanding setting aspect ratio to " Zoom " ( page 26 ) will force the use of the entire 4096 panel width. Then, try anamorphic A . If you have a 2.40:1 screen, it will just be right. If you have a 2.35:1 screen, you will lose just a few pixels top and bottom. Try that. The bottom line is you shouldn't see black bars anywhere with a scope screen, scope movies and a DCR lens. If you do, something else in the chain may be set wrong. And you may need to use the zoom to get everything dialed in to fit the first time. Set up a user mode specifically for the lens settings.



Or, take the lens off, and see what zoom and anamorphic A does, and anamorphic C does. It should fill your screen top to bottom and side to side, with no black bars. Off = black bars. The aspect will be distorted, but the screen should be filled. Then put the lens back on and adjust zoom and focus as need be.



EDIT - I forgot - you have a 16:9 screen, don't you? I thought you were trying to fill that screen. if it's just the light outline, take the lens off and test things - I doubt the lens has anything to do with that.


Yup - 16:9. The shot I got up there was with the lens itself zoomed out so I could catch the outlines.

You’re saying under those same circumstances - you’d want to see what changing the AR to zoom and Anamorphic “A” and “C” does?
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post #5945 of 14002 Old 02-17-2019, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Willie View Post
It's alive!

I am not sure any other RS1000 have posted pics. These are iPhone pics using out of the box settings; Natural with DCI and the iris at -8.

Hate to see the 7 and 9 series get all the love around here.
Looking good! Still waiting for mine, I too wanted to get the nx5 and put the xtra money towards atmos. Plus considering how quickly these pjs loose their value the xtra 2 grand goes a long way. Historically jvcs entry level pjs give the next price jump a run for their money, having the x70 and x30 in my room together, yes the 70 was better but not thousands better. Everyone is different though with some folks the extra money is worth the price.
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post #5946 of 14002 Old 02-17-2019, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desray2k View Post
I’ve noticed some posterization of skin tones in some brighter colourful scenes from time to time on my NX7. It only affects 1080p mkv files in most cases. Initially I thought the problem lies with my media players but it didn’t seem to be the case. Anyone has this experience? Usually what is the cause of it?
Could be a lot of things. Did you use zone convergence in your panel alignment? Whats the player and player source? What video space? Etc

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post #5947 of 14002 Old 02-17-2019, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
I played around with upscaling 1080p on my RS4500 and I have to say I am not at all impressed with JVCs upscaler. In my opinion, it has not improved over the eshift line. I'd dump the darbee and send a 4K signal to the projector. I guess I'm spoiled as I use madVR to do all upscaling and it's phenomenal.
I have never been blown away with up scaling. If you want to see 4K, you have to film it, transfer it, and display it in 4K. To me going from true 1080P to true 4K is nice but as everyone always says, black levels, contrast ratio, and color accuracy is far more important.
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post #5948 of 14002 Old 02-17-2019, 03:22 PM
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Official JVC RS3000/NX9 - JVC RS2000/NX7/N7 - JVC RS1000/NX5/N5 - Owners Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig Peer View Post
I'm using a Lumagen to scale, so I can't play along exactly. From my understanding setting aspect ratio to " Zoom " ( page 26 ) will force the use of the entire 4096 panel width. Then, try anamorphic A . If you have a 2.40:1 screen, it will just be right. If you have a 2.35:1 screen, you will lose just a few pixels top and bottom. Try that. The bottom line is you shouldn't see black bars anywhere with a scope screen, scope movies and a DCR lens. If you do, something else in the chain may be set wrong. And you may need to use the zoom to get everything dialed in to fit the first time. Set up a user mode specifically for the lens settings.



Or, take the lens off, and see what zoom and anamorphic A does, and anamorphic C does. It should fill your screen top to bottom and side to side, with no black bars. Off = black bars. The aspect will be distorted, but the screen should be filled. Then put the lens back on and adjust zoom and focus as need be.



EDIT - I forgot - you have a 16:9 screen, don't you? I thought you were trying to fill that screen. if it's just the light outline, take the lens off and test things - I doubt the lens has anything to do with that.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawn Kelly View Post
Hmm. My guess is that's not from the lens but from the projector. Unfortunately you'd have to take the lens off to confirm.


Using various things to check this - it appears to be a projector thing. I’ve tried Anamorphic A/B/C - and nothing I can do will change the fact there is a somewhat border there.

Zoom makes no difference.

These pictures were all taken with the DCR lens off. What is that? Anyone know?

First picture is in RPO. Second is the lens adjust menu. Third is 820 menu.






Last edited by ScottieBoysName; 02-17-2019 at 03:39 PM.
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post #5949 of 14002 Old 02-17-2019, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
Could be a lot of things. Did you use zone convergence in your panel alignment? Whats the player and player source? What video space? Etc
Nope...I did not mess with the panel alignment stuff. Using nVidia Shield TV 4K using [email protected] Using Limited 16 - 235 video input. My projector Input space set at S.White level (16 - 255).
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post #5950 of 14002 Old 02-17-2019, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post
I have never been blown away with up scaling. If you want to see 4K, you have to film it, transfer it, and display it in 4K. To me going from true 1080P to true 4K is nice but as everyone always says, black levels, contrast ratio, and color accuracy is far more important.
You may feel different if you saw some madVR upscaling. It’s nothing like the projectors upscaler. High quality 1080p content upscaled with madVR has scenes that look good and others that look super 4k. I think it’s the first time I considered upscaling actually worth while.
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post #5951 of 14002 Old 02-17-2019, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
You may feel different if you saw some madVR upscaling. It’s nothing like the projectors upscaler. High quality 1080p content upscaled with madVR has scenes that look good and others that look super 4k. I think it’s the first time I considered upscaling actually worth while.
I have 1080 material Im upscaling to 4K with madvr and on my NX9 often looks way better than some of my HDR titles.
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post #5952 of 14002 Old 02-17-2019, 04:45 PM
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ACK! I’ll pass on that. I’m a brightness guy. Blind me please. no filter here. Lol.

Hmmm. I feel like I have a setting wrong in the 820 somewhere.

I remember playing The Matrix on my Vizio PQ in the living room and noticing the same noise.

So...it can’t just be the projector.

It’s actually really distracting. In the scene in RPO where the IOI racers are getting into their cars there is a TON of noise.

Maybe I should head over to the 820 thread.
That’s film grain.

If you have any image “enhancements” in play it will generally exacerbate the look.

In Ready Player One, it clearly a stylistic choice by Spielberg to distinguish between the clean virtual reality of the Osasis and the gritty reality of the real world.
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post #5953 of 14002 Old 02-17-2019, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by seanbryan View Post
That’s film grain.



If you have any image “enhancements” in play it will generally exacerbate the look.



In Ready Player One, it clearly a stylistic choice by Spielberg to distinguish between the clean virtual reality of the Osasis and the gritty reality of the real world.


Yup. That’s been the general consensus here. Lots of grain in that film.
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post #5954 of 14002 Old 02-17-2019, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
Never have used the 820, but I think you should be using:

SDR2020 in 820
Gamma 2.4 in JVC
Natural mode in JVC
BT2020 color profile

Shouldn't Gamma be set to HDR(PQ) so that you have access to the auto tone mapping, and shouldn't the 820 be set to HDR2020 and HDR optimizer off?

Last edited by malba2366; 02-17-2019 at 05:04 PM.
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post #5955 of 14002 Old 02-17-2019, 05:22 PM
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Shouldn't Gamma be set to HDR(PQ) so that you have access to the auto tone mapping, and shouldn't the 820 be set to HDR2020 and HDR optimizer off?
It depends if you want the 820 to do the tonemapping or the JVC.

820 doing the tonemapping outputs SDR BT2020, so you need to select an SDR BT2020 calibration in the JVC (such as Mike's suggested).

JVC doing the tonemapping, then what you suggest would work fine.

I guess it's a matter of taste, and which tonemapping provides the best results for you.

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post #5956 of 14002 Old 02-17-2019, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
It depends if you want the 820 to do the tonemapping or the JVC.

820 doing the tonemapping outputs SDR BT2020, so you need to select an SDR BT2020 calibration in the JVC (such as Mike's suggested).

JVC doing the tonemapping, then what you suggest would work fine.

I guess it's a matter of taste, and which tonemapping provides the best results for you.
There is also the possibility of using HDR/2020 on the 820 with the optimizer on. If you select the projector setting it will tone map to a 500 nit level, or 350/500 level if you have a 9000, and transmit that new meta data of 500 to the JVC. The JVC then only has to deal with a small range up to 500 nits.
There will be some new wrinkles supposedly in this collaboration with Panasonic and JVC that will enable both to work together better. This may be just the 9000 or also the 820. It’s a very new development.
I suggest you try the HDR setting with the optimizer on and projector chosen as display and see what you think. Use the JVC HDR10 with either the HDR or BT2020 color profile.
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post #5957 of 14002 Old 02-17-2019, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Clark Burk View Post
There is also the possibility of using HDR/2020 on the 820 with the optimizer on. If you select the projector setting it will tone map to a 500 nit level, or 350/500 level if you have a 9000, and transmit that new meta data of 500 to the JVC. The JVC then only has to deal with a small range up to 500 nits.
There will be some new wrinkles supposedly in this collaboration with Panasonic and JVC that will enable both to work together better. This may be just the 9000 or also the 820. It’s a very new development.
I suggest you try the HDR setting with the optimizer on and projector chosen as display and see what you think. Use the JVC HDR10 with either the HDR or BT2020 color profile.
I don’t use either, I use MadVR

I’ll take a look at the JVC tonemapping at some point with my UB900, but it’s not really a priority for me...

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post #5958 of 14002 Old 02-17-2019, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by docrog View Post
I was just looking at several of Masciola's HDR10 test patterns on my NX7 which has yet to be professionally calibrated. I was using default HDR (HDR10), manual iris=0. In the clipping test for flashing color bars: green, cyan, yellow & magenta were all clipping around 1100-1200 nits, but red and blue seemed to be clipping around 600 nits. Is this to be expected and, if not, will calibration bring these 2 colors in line with the other 4?
I posted this earlier, but no one chimed in with an answer. I know that more than a few posters here are far more knowledgeable than I am with regards to calibration and clipping patterns. So, I'd really appreciate it if comments could be made. Thanks.
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post #5959 of 14002 Old 02-17-2019, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
It depends if you want the 820 to do the tonemapping or the JVC.



820 doing the tonemapping outputs SDR BT2020, so you need to select an SDR BT2020 calibration in the JVC (such as Mike's suggested).



JVC doing the tonemapping, then what you suggest would work fine.



I guess it's a matter of taste, and which tonemapping provides the best results for you.


So far, I like the JVC doing the tone mapping over the 820.
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post #5960 of 14002 Old 02-17-2019, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clark Burk View Post
There is also the possibility of using HDR/2020 on the 820 with the optimizer on. If you select the projector setting it will tone map to a 500 nit level, or 350/500 level if you have a 9000, and transmit that new meta data of 500 to the JVC. The JVC then only has to deal with a small range up to 500 nits.

There will be some new wrinkles supposedly in this collaboration with Panasonic and JVC that will enable both to work together better. This may be just the 9000 or also the 820. It’s a very new development.

I suggest you try the HDR setting with the optimizer on and projector chosen as display and see what you think. Use the JVC HDR10 with either the HDR or BT2020 color profile.


This is what I do and it looks superior to me than other methods I’ve tried.
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post #5961 of 14002 Old 02-17-2019, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by yankiy View Post
So to anyone here with an NX9. What player are you using? I currently have the Panasonic ub900. Would switching to a ub820 be a worthwhile move?
Still waiting for my NX9 but I'll be using Shield TV from direct digital rips from Plex Server.

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post #5962 of 14002 Old 02-17-2019, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
I don’t use either, I use MadVR



I’ll take a look at the JVC tonemapping at some point with my UB900, but it’s not really a priority for me...


Mind sharing your settings in MadVR, I’ve been using MadmeasureHDR to get the proper measurements but I’ve been unable to get better results in MadVR than just sending the HDR meta data to the JVC and letting it do the autotone mapping. I’m sure it’s just a setup issue on the MadVR side though.
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post #5963 of 14002 Old 02-17-2019, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by RapalloAV View Post
I have 1080 material Im upscaling to 4K with madvr and on my NX9 often looks way better than some of my HDR titles.

+1 one this, NGU Sharp in MadVR is pretty amazing.
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post #5964 of 14002 Old 02-17-2019, 07:55 PM
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Nice review and write up on the RS2000. Very detailed.

i cant found it :-) plz can you post the link?


thank you
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post #5965 of 14002 Old 02-17-2019, 07:55 PM
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Still waiting for my NX9 but I'll be using Shield TV from direct digital rips from Plex Server.
I suggest using Kodi with the Plex add-on instead of the native Plex player on the Shield. My NX7 shows a huge difference in quality between those two apps with the native Plex player looking awful in comparison to Kodi.
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Anybody know what happened to zombie?
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post #5967 of 14002 Old 02-17-2019, 09:25 PM
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So far, I like the JVC doing the tone mapping over the 820.


In what aspect it is better than the Panny? Care to elaborate? Thks.


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post #5968 of 14002 Old 02-17-2019, 10:38 PM
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Another shot out for RS1000! Got one over weekend, thanks Mike!
I only had about an hour playing with projector and have several questions that I hope other owners of the new projectors can chime in.

  1. Convergence - I had to adjust Blue color by 2H 1V and Red by 1H to get close enough convergence where white and yellow grid looked solid. I still have Blue vertical line offset on the far left, while the rest of the vertical lines are fine. What does that say about my particular projector, why is convergence not uniform? Several people who got same batch as mine posted that they either got perfect convergence out of the box or had to do max of 1 click adjustment.
  2. I imagine that I have to use specific area adjustment if I want to get rid of Blue offset at far left. Are there any cons with doing area adjustments vs whole?
  3. Should I expect convergence shift over time?
  4. While focusing lens, I noticed that letters in label "Focus" have a green pixels on the left side. That's after convergence adjustments. I have to stand right next to screen to see that. Is that normal?
  5. I discovered Zoom feature that allows scope content to fill entire horizontal chip area. Does anyone plan to run their JVC like that full time? I didn't notice any scaling artifacts, which I expected since image and pixel ratio is no longer 1:1. If I run my JVC in Zoom mode, I can get 120" 16:9 screen and get the biggest possible scope view possible. The only drawback I see is that I will have black top and bottom bars for Scope and 16:9. What do you guys recommend?

Thanks!
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post #5969 of 14002 Old 02-17-2019, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by avsBuddy View Post
[*]I discovered Zoom feature that allows scope content to fill entire horizontal chip area. Does anyone plan to run their JVC like that full time? I didn't notice any scaling artifacts, which I expected since image and pixel ratio is no longer 1:1. If I run my JVC in Zoom mode, I can get 120" 16:9 screen and get the biggest possible scope view possible. The only drawback I see is that I will have black top and bottom bars for Scope and 16:9. What do you guys recommend?
[/LIST]


Thanks!

I plan to get an NX5 and do this.

My thoughts on it here:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...l#post57597766

And you are right, the slight stretching does not create and noticeable scaling artifacts from what I saw on an NX9 demo and from someone who owns an NX7 and uses the stretch.


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post #5970 of 14002 Old 02-18-2019, 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by cogdok View Post
I suggest using Kodi with the Plex add-on instead of the native Plex player on the Shield. My NX7 shows a huge difference in quality between those two apps with the native Plex player looking awful in comparison to Kodi.
Thanks, I was planning on using a Plex alternative like MrMC or Kodi.

My preferred platform is ATV 4K with Infuse Pro which is awesome, but Apple doesn't support Atmos passthrough for your media, only on content you buy/rent from iTunes or stream from Netflix/Amazon Prime. So I'm stuck using Shield TV for now (possibly forever).

JVC DLA-NX9 / 156" 2.4:1 CIH Seymour AT screen / Marantz AV7704 11.2 / Yamaha MX-A5000 11-ch amp
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