Originally Posted by markmon1
Greg, it is recommended mostly to only run autocal for gamma not color correction. In the case of gamma, I don't think the bulb should make too much difference. I suspect that autocal won't really be needed on the new units. So far, no RS4500 owners have reported any gamma droop on the 4K panels so I think it's likely that the JVC 4K panels don't have the need for autocal.
I'd be careful with what you do with autocal. The factory settings need to be backed up and if you lose them, there's no way to get them back without sending the unit all the way back to Japan. The US guys can't even fix it supposedly. There was so far at least one guy here that ran autocal, had really bad results, and tried to restore his backup and it failed mid way and he had to send his projector back. This isn't common, but just saying.
I ran autocal on my RS4500 demo I had because the colors were super off. After calibrating both gamma and color, I saved the results to the projector and the projector was unusable. It had super bad color banding and really bad colors. I had to restore the backup it made, which luckily worked and fixed everything. But it took over an hour to restore the backup. I meant to only run it for gamma, which, btw, didn't need any correction.
I'd say you may want to not bother with auto cal at all. If you run it, just run it and see what it wants to do don't save any changes and do let it create a backup of your existing settings. Then you can see if anything needs to be done at least without making changes. Since I don't think you'll need it due to gamma droop. Also the JVC bulbs age better than the sony bulbs you're use to. In sony land, the bulbs got a weird color tint as they aged and auto cal always fixed it. At least on my 675ES, I remember it had a built in camera and you could run FW based auto calibration and it restored the colors and did a great job. The JVC doesn't have this ability really and I wouldn't trust the autocal software and spyder to manage this at all. But also I think it's not needed.
FWIW I love the results of my autocal.
Note that this is in HDR color profile watching UHD video. On my NX5, I noticed that when switching from low bulb to high bulb that high bulb looked very different. The color had a noticeable green tint to it and overall the colors, especially things like skin tones looked washed out or like desaturated. They just looked pale and slightly green rather than a healthy pinkish.
It was so distracting to me that I simply didn't want to use high bulb mode.
I tried using an X-rite i1 pro spectrophotometer to do a full grayscale white balance on a custom color temp. This improved things, but only slightly.
I decided to just take my Spyder5 and run a full (gamma + color) autocal. I did low bulb autocal first. After it was done I compared results and there was only a very, very minute difference in color, but certainly not in any negative way.
Then I did an autocal for my high bulb mode. After it completed and I went to check the results, I couldn't quite believe my eyes. There was a very noticeable difference to the color, and the color now looked exactly like low bulb mode. No more green tint, no more washed out skin tones. People had the perfectly pinkish skin that they do when in low bulb mode.
I tried restoring my INIT file and it only took about 5 minutes to reset. I redid my calibration for repeatability and got the same (great IMO) results.
Now I love watching high bulb mode, where as before I just didn't want to watch high bulb due to how poor the skin tones looked compared to low bulb.
So FWIW, I found a full autocal was overall excellent for my NX5 (at least for HDR color profile and high bulb mode). I can also mention the gamma, there was no noticeable adjustment to my gamma as my unit is new. The before and after gamma curve line were both already perfectly straight according to autocal.