Official JVC RS3000/NX9 - JVC RS2000/NX7/N7 - JVC RS1000/NX5/N5 - Owners Thread - Page 273 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #8161 of 13151 Old 03-19-2019, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post
Ya know you always need that one button from each remote that is not on a universal remote.....
Not if you set them up correctly. My MX500, for example, has 20 buttons per device that can be labelled and programmed in, in addition to all the standard buttons. I've never been in that situation.
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Video: JVC RS4500 135" screen in pure black room no light, htpc nvidia 1080ti.
Audio: Anthem mrx720 running 7.1.4, McIntosh MC-303, MC-152, B&W 802d3 LR, B&W HTM1D3 center, B&W 805d3 surround, B&W 702S2 rear, B&W 706s2 x 4 shelf mounted for atmos, 2 sub arrays both infinite baffle: 4x15 fi audio running on behringer ep4000 + 4x12 fi audio running on 2nd ep4000.
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post #8162 of 13151 Old 03-19-2019, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by jmonier View Post
I certainly didn't think that he was saying that the MX500 is the only solution and I did see Terry's reply as light-hearted.

But, Mark seemed to start from a discussion of a SINGLE remote and assume that anyone who participated in such a discussion would automatically be using a bunch of 10 remotes to control a system (which he clearly found ridiculous). By making a "light-hearted poke at people who use a whole bunch of remotes to control components in their HT" he is implying (without any basis) that the original participants in the discussion are in that category. His comment really had nothing to do with that discussion (nor added anything to it), and I interpret something like that, lighthearted or not, as a put-down.
No put down intended lol. Unless, of course, you really are using 10 remotes

Video: JVC RS4500 135" screen in pure black room no light, htpc nvidia 1080ti.
Audio: Anthem mrx720 running 7.1.4, McIntosh MC-303, MC-152, B&W 802d3 LR, B&W HTM1D3 center, B&W 805d3 surround, B&W 702S2 rear, B&W 706s2 x 4 shelf mounted for atmos, 2 sub arrays both infinite baffle: 4x15 fi audio running on behringer ep4000 + 4x12 fi audio running on 2nd ep4000.
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post #8163 of 13151 Old 03-19-2019, 10:40 PM
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post #8164 of 13151 Old 03-19-2019, 11:04 PM
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post #8165 of 13151 Old 03-19-2019, 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by GregCh View Post
I have a question for experienced JVC guys.

If I run the gamma calibration part of JVC Auto-Cal on a bulb with several hundred hours on it and then replace it with a brand new bulb, do I need to run Auto-Cal on the new bulb to get it back to normal or will it reset to factory defaults?

The reason I am asking is because I now have 200 hours on my projector and I am thinking of using Auto-Cal on it. However, I sent off for the free JVC bulb a few weeks ago and I plan to use that bulb when it arrives, just to test it and make sure it works. I will probably leave it in the projector until it is used up and then replace it with my former bulb.


I am just curious what happens with Auto-Cal gamma calibration runs when a bulb is changed. Does it reset the gamma to factory settings or does it need to be re-calibrated?
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I would say yes. Each bulb is slighly different.
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Originally Posted by mattztt View Post
The projector won't know the bulb is different and I would be really surprised if resetting the bulb hours did anything to your calibration. Regardless you would want to recalibrate anyway to account for bulb-to-bulb variances.

From what I've read the factory values are lost for good once you perform an auto cal which is why it's recommended that you save a backup of them.
Greg, it is recommended mostly to only run autocal for gamma not color correction. In the case of gamma, I don't think the bulb should make too much difference. I suspect that autocal won't really be needed on the new units. So far, no RS4500 owners have reported any gamma droop on the 4K panels so I think it's likely that the JVC 4K panels don't have the need for autocal.

I'd be careful with what you do with autocal. The factory settings need to be backed up and if you lose them, there's no way to get them back without sending the unit all the way back to Japan. The US guys can't even fix it supposedly. There was so far at least one guy here that ran autocal, had really bad results, and tried to restore his backup and it failed mid way and he had to send his projector back. This isn't common, but just saying.

I ran autocal on my RS4500 demo I had because the colors were super off. After calibrating both gamma and color, I saved the results to the projector and the projector was unusable. It had super bad color banding and really bad colors. I had to restore the backup it made, which luckily worked and fixed everything. But it took over an hour to restore the backup. I meant to only run it for gamma, which, btw, didn't need any correction.

I'd say you may want to not bother with auto cal at all. If you run it, just run it and see what it wants to do don't save any changes and do let it create a backup of your existing settings. Then you can see if anything needs to be done at least without making changes. Since I don't think you'll need it due to gamma droop. Also the JVC bulbs age better than the sony bulbs you're use to. In sony land, the bulbs got a weird color tint as they aged and auto cal always fixed it. At least on my 675ES, I remember it had a built in camera and you could run FW based auto calibration and it restored the colors and did a great job. The JVC doesn't have this ability really and I wouldn't trust the autocal software and spyder to manage this at all. But also I think it's not needed.

Video: JVC RS4500 135" screen in pure black room no light, htpc nvidia 1080ti.
Audio: Anthem mrx720 running 7.1.4, McIntosh MC-303, MC-152, B&W 802d3 LR, B&W HTM1D3 center, B&W 805d3 surround, B&W 702S2 rear, B&W 706s2 x 4 shelf mounted for atmos, 2 sub arrays both infinite baffle: 4x15 fi audio running on behringer ep4000 + 4x12 fi audio running on 2nd ep4000.
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post #8166 of 13151 Old 03-20-2019, 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
Greg, it is recommended mostly to only run autocal for gamma not color correction. In the case of gamma, I don't think the bulb should make too much difference. I suspect that autocal won't really be needed on the new units. So far, no RS4500 owners have reported any gamma droop on the 4K panels so I think it's likely that the JVC 4K panels don't have the need for autocal.



I'd be careful with what you do with autocal. The factory settings need to be backed up and if you lose them, there's no way to get them back without sending the unit all the way back to Japan. The US guys can't even fix it supposedly. There was so far at least one guy here that ran autocal, had really bad results, and tried to restore his backup and it failed mid way and he had to send his projector back. This isn't common, but just saying.



I ran autocal on my RS4500 demo I had because the colors were super off. After calibrating both gamma and color, I saved the results to the projector and the projector was unusable. It had super bad color banding and really bad colors. I had to restore the backup it made, which luckily worked and fixed everything. But it took over an hour to restore the backup. I meant to only run it for gamma, which, btw, didn't need any correction.



I'd say you may want to not bother with auto cal at all. If you run it, just run it and see what it wants to do don't save any changes and do let it create a backup of your existing settings. Then you can see if anything needs to be done at least without making changes. Since I don't think you'll need it due to gamma droop. Also the JVC bulbs age better than the sony bulbs you're use to. In sony land, the bulbs got a weird color tint as they aged and auto cal always fixed it. At least on my 675ES, I remember it had a built in camera and you could run FW based auto calibration and it restored the colors and did a great job. The JVC doesn't have this ability really and I wouldn't trust the autocal software and spyder to manage this at all. But also I think it's not needed.


I think I’m going to stay away from autocal.
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post #8167 of 13151 Old 03-20-2019, 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
No put down intended lol. Unless, of course, you really are using 10 remotes


I’m running 5 remotes right now. Sigh. So MX500 is what you’d suggest?
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post #8168 of 13151 Old 03-20-2019, 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by ScottieBoysName View Post
I’m running 5 remotes right now. Sigh. So MX500 is what you’d suggest?
The MX500 is discontinued. But you can find them on ebay and new on ebay still for pretty cheap.


Look at this thing. It fits in your hand perfectly. You can control your devices without looking at the remote just by feel. It doesn't require being used with 2 hands like a PDA. It learns without needing to hook up to a PC to make changes. It has an awesome remote clone feature where you can get another mx500 and press a couple buttons and clone one entire remote to the other in about 10 seconds. I have 3 of these in my room cloned. It has 10 buttons for custom functions for things the remote doesnt have and a page button so you can turn that into 20 per device. Each of those buttons can also be a macro etc. Buttons are all tactile and work based off feel. None of that annoying touch screen stuff you need to look at the remote or hold in one hand and use with the other.

Not only that, but the IR is extremely strong on this. When it was new, one of the reviews would rate remotes by how many fluffy blankets the signal would pass through. Good ones passed 2 or 3. This thing passed 5 fluffy blankets

Harmony - you need a hub and a hub per remote. You have to use annoying pc software to make one change.

When they stopped making these a couple years ago, I bought an extra 10 so I have 10 more in boxes in case one breaks. I have about 10 deployed throughout the house. 3 in theater, 3 in living room, 2 in each other tv room. And because the remote looks identical, my wife can use it in any room because while the devices are different, the remote looks and works the same to her.
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Video: JVC RS4500 135" screen in pure black room no light, htpc nvidia 1080ti.
Audio: Anthem mrx720 running 7.1.4, McIntosh MC-303, MC-152, B&W 802d3 LR, B&W HTM1D3 center, B&W 805d3 surround, B&W 702S2 rear, B&W 706s2 x 4 shelf mounted for atmos, 2 sub arrays both infinite baffle: 4x15 fi audio running on behringer ep4000 + 4x12 fi audio running on 2nd ep4000.
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post #8169 of 13151 Old 03-20-2019, 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
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Originally Posted by ScottieBoysName View Post
I’m running 5 remotes right now. Sigh. So MX500 is what you’d suggest?
The MX500 is discontinued. But you can find them on ebay and new on ebay still for pretty cheap.


Look at this thing. It fits in your hand perfectly. You can control your devices without looking at the remote just by feel. It doesn't require being used with 2 hands like a PDA. It learns without needing to hook up to a PC to make changes. It has an awesome remote clone feature where you can get another mx500 and press a couple buttons and clone one entire remote to the other in about 10 seconds. I have 3 of these in my room cloned. It has 10 buttons for custom functions for things the remote doesnt have and a page button so you can turn that into 20 per device. Each of those buttons can also be a macro etc. Buttons are all tactile and work based off feel. None of that annoying touch screen stuff you need to look at the remote or hold in one hand and use with the other.

Not only that, but the IR is extremely strong on this. When it was new, one of the reviews would rate remotes by how many fluffy blankets the signal would pass through. Good ones passed 2 or 3. This thing passed 5 fluffy blankets [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]

Harmony - you need a hub and a hub per remote. You have to use annoying pc software to make one change.

When they stopped making these a couple years ago, I bought an extra 10 so I have 10 more in boxes in case one breaks. I have about 10 deployed throughout the house. 3 in theater, 3 in living room, 2 in each other tv room. And because the remote looks identical, my wife can use it in any room because while the devices are different, the remote looks and works the same to her.
The Harmony remotes are fantastic and very easy to setup. You can set them up on your computer or use the app on your phone. It really can’t get much easier!

The hub is a great feature to have so that you can control your devices from another room. I have all my electronics in a seperate room and the hub works flawlessly on them.
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post #8170 of 13151 Old 03-20-2019, 06:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
No put down intended lol. Unless, of course, you really are using 10 remotes [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]


I’m running 5 remotes right now. Sigh. So MX500 is what you’d suggest?
I would suggest a Harmony remote. Easy to use and easy to setup.
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post #8171 of 13151 Old 03-20-2019, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
The MX500 is discontinued. But you can find them on ebay and new on ebay still for pretty cheap.





Look at this thing. It fits in your hand perfectly. You can control your devices without looking at the remote just by feel. It doesn't require being used with 2 hands like a PDA. It learns without needing to hook up to a PC to make changes. It has an awesome remote clone feature where you can get another mx500 and press a couple buttons and clone one entire remote to the other in about 10 seconds. I have 3 of these in my room cloned. It has 10 buttons for custom functions for things the remote doesnt have and a page button so you can turn that into 20 per device. Each of those buttons can also be a macro etc. Buttons are all tactile and work based off feel. None of that annoying touch screen stuff you need to look at the remote or hold in one hand and use with the other.



Not only that, but the IR is extremely strong on this. When it was new, one of the reviews would rate remotes by how many fluffy blankets the signal would pass through. Good ones passed 2 or 3. This thing passed 5 fluffy blankets



Harmony - you need a hub and a hub per remote. You have to use annoying pc software to make one change.



When they stopped making these a couple years ago, I bought an extra 10 so I have 10 more in boxes in case one breaks. I have about 10 deployed throughout the house. 3 in theater, 3 in living room, 2 in each other tv room. And because the remote looks identical, my wife can use it in any room because while the devices are different, the remote looks and works the same to her.


Gotcha. Thanks!
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post #8172 of 13151 Old 03-20-2019, 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by coxy2416 View Post
The Harmony remotes are fantastic and very easy to setup. You can set them up on your computer or use the app on your phone. It really can’t get much easier!

The hub is a great feature to have so that you can control your devices from another room. I have all my electronics in a seperate room and the hub works flawlessly on them.
It can get far easier. Instead of getting up to go work on a computer, I can work on my couch. I want one more button on my device, I can do it in a few seconds without even getting up. I don't have to fiddle with my phone or pc to do it. Press and hold main+enter for 5 seconds, press the button to program, point the source remote and press the button, its learned. Now press main a few times and you're using remote again.

Harmony you can only have one remote in your room per hub. And they don't really support having two hubs together. So if you have a living room or theater with multiple main seats, you always have to get up to go find the remote. For the price of your harmony, I can buy 5 MX 500's then program them all in the time it takes you to program your harmony

Lets not forget usability also. The harmony is a pain if you have any functions that aren't part of the button part you're now dealing with a touch screen that requires looking at the remote to use it. Ugh.

And the MX600 is exactly the same as an MX500 but it also ads RF so you can can have all your gear in another room. But a good IR extender setup accomplishes this anyway. All my gear is also in another room on my MX500 with an IR extender.

Video: JVC RS4500 135" screen in pure black room no light, htpc nvidia 1080ti.
Audio: Anthem mrx720 running 7.1.4, McIntosh MC-303, MC-152, B&W 802d3 LR, B&W HTM1D3 center, B&W 805d3 surround, B&W 702S2 rear, B&W 706s2 x 4 shelf mounted for atmos, 2 sub arrays both infinite baffle: 4x15 fi audio running on behringer ep4000 + 4x12 fi audio running on 2nd ep4000.

Last edited by markmon1; 03-20-2019 at 06:23 AM.
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post #8173 of 13151 Old 03-20-2019, 06:25 AM
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RS2000 / NX7 review :
https://hometheaterreview.com/jvc-dl...3-xd63S_Rl23Vc

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Hej Drem,

Jag pratar väldigt lite svenska. Thank you for the link to the review. It was quite interesting. I currently use an Epson LS100 Ultra Short Throw projector. Even though it is a good fit for me, I am researching 4k projectors, including the one in the review.

Aja
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post #8174 of 13151 Old 03-20-2019, 06:27 AM
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I would suggest a Harmony remote. Easy to use and easy to setup.


I have a 650. Not too sure where it is though.
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post #8175 of 13151 Old 03-20-2019, 06:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
It can get far easier. Instead of getting up to go work on a computer, I can work on my couch. I want one more button on my device, I can do it in a few seconds without even getting up. I don't have to fiddle with my phone or pc to do it. Press and hold main+enter for 5 seconds, press the button to program, point the source remote and press the button, its learned. Now press main a few times and you're using remote again.

Harmony you can only have one remote in your room per hub. And they don't really support having two hubs together. So if you have a living room or theater with multiple main seats, you always have to get up to go find the remote. For the price of your harmony, I can buy 5 MX 500's then program them all in the time it takes you to program your harmony

Lets not forget usability also. The harmony is a pain if you have any functions that aren't part of the button part you're now dealing with a touch screen that requires looking at the remote to use it. Ugh.

And the MX600 is exactly the same as an MX500 but it also ads RF so you can can have all your gear in another room. But a good IR extender setup accomplishes this anyway. All my gear is also in another room on my MX500 with an IR extender.
IR extender can't compare with RF. After having RF to a base station (Harmony), which can send IR or network communication, I would never go back to the old days of using IR remote with IR extender. With RF, you do not even have to point the remote. As for programing on the couch, where else would you do it. I use my laptop, which is almost always with me, if I am home. Though you can program using your phone also and who does not have their phone with them?

Last edited by Mike Garrett; 03-20-2019 at 06:40 AM.
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post #8176 of 13151 Old 03-20-2019, 06:31 AM
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Greg, it is recommended mostly to only run autocal for gamma not color correction. In the case of gamma, I don't think the bulb should make too much difference. I suspect that autocal won't really be needed on the new units. So far, no RS4500 owners have reported any gamma droop on the 4K panels so I think it's likely that the JVC 4K panels don't have the need for autocal.

I'd be careful with what you do with autocal. The factory settings need to be backed up and if you lose them, there's no way to get them back without sending the unit all the way back to Japan. The US guys can't even fix it supposedly. There was so far at least one guy here that ran autocal, had really bad results, and tried to restore his backup and it failed mid way and he had to send his projector back. This isn't common, but just saying.

I ran autocal on my RS4500 demo I had because the colors were super off. After calibrating both gamma and color, I saved the results to the projector and the projector was unusable. It had super bad color banding and really bad colors. I had to restore the backup it made, which luckily worked and fixed everything. But it took over an hour to restore the backup. I meant to only run it for gamma, which, btw, didn't need any correction.

I'd say you may want to not bother with auto cal at all. If you run it, just run it and see what it wants to do don't save any changes and do let it create a backup of your existing settings. Then you can see if anything needs to be done at least without making changes. Since I don't think you'll need it due to gamma droop. Also the JVC bulbs age better than the sony bulbs you're use to. In sony land, the bulbs got a weird color tint as they aged and auto cal always fixed it. At least on my 675ES, I remember it had a built in camera and you could run FW based auto calibration and it restored the colors and did a great job. The JVC doesn't have this ability really and I wouldn't trust the autocal software and spyder to manage this at all. But also I think it's not needed.
FWIW I love the results of my autocal.

Note that this is in HDR color profile watching UHD video. On my NX5, I noticed that when switching from low bulb to high bulb that high bulb looked very different. The color had a noticeable green tint to it and overall the colors, especially things like skin tones looked washed out or like desaturated. They just looked pale and slightly green rather than a healthy pinkish.

It was so distracting to me that I simply didn't want to use high bulb mode.

I tried using an X-rite i1 pro spectrophotometer to do a full grayscale white balance on a custom color temp. This improved things, but only slightly.

I decided to just take my Spyder5 and run a full (gamma + color) autocal. I did low bulb autocal first. After it was done I compared results and there was only a very, very minute difference in color, but certainly not in any negative way.

Then I did an autocal for my high bulb mode. After it completed and I went to check the results, I couldn't quite believe my eyes. There was a very noticeable difference to the color, and the color now looked exactly like low bulb mode. No more green tint, no more washed out skin tones. People had the perfectly pinkish skin that they do when in low bulb mode.

I tried restoring my INIT file and it only took about 5 minutes to reset. I redid my calibration for repeatability and got the same (great IMO) results.

Now I love watching high bulb mode, where as before I just didn't want to watch high bulb due to how poor the skin tones looked compared to low bulb.

So FWIW, I found a full autocal was overall excellent for my NX5 (at least for HDR color profile and high bulb mode). I can also mention the gamma, there was no noticeable adjustment to my gamma as my unit is new. The before and after gamma curve line were both already perfectly straight according to autocal.
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Last edited by SirMaster; 03-20-2019 at 07:00 AM.
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post #8177 of 13151 Old 03-20-2019, 06:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirMaster View Post
FWIW I love the results of my autocal.

Note that this is in HDR color profile watching UHD video. On my NX5, I noticed that when switching from low bulb to high bulb that high bulb looked very different. The color had a noticeable green tint to it and overall the colors, especially things like skin tones looked washed out or like desaturated. They just looked pale and slightly green rather than a healthy pinkish.

It was so distracting to me that I simply didn't want to use high bulb mode.

I tried using an X-rite i1 pro spectrophotometer to do a full grayscale white balance on a custom color temp. This improved things, but only slightly.

I decided to just take my Spyder5 and run a full (gamma + color) autocal. I did low bulb autocal first. After it was done I compared results and there was only a very, very minute difference in color, but certainly not in any negative way.

Then I did an autocal for my high bulb mode. After it completed and I went to check the results, I couldn't quite believe my eyes. There was a very noticeable difference to the color, and the color now looked exactly like low bulb mode. No more green tint, no more washed out skin tones. People had the perfectly pinkish skin that they do when in low bulb mode.

I tried restoring my INIT file and it only took about 5 minutes to reset. I redid my calibration for repeatability and got the same (great IMO) results. Now I love watching high bulb mode, where before I just didn't want to watch it due to how poor the skin tones looked compared to low bulb.

So FWIW, I found a full autocal was overall excellent for my NX5 (at least for HDR color profile and high bulb mode). I can also mention the gamma, there was no noticeable adjustment to my gamma as my unit is new. The before and after gamma curve line were both already perfectly straight according to autocal.
Yes, the problem with restoring the INIT file with autocal has been corrected. Everyone should be using the latest firmware for their projector and for autocal. Though still, I recommend autocal for gamma only, unless you can profile your meter and know it is accurate. Also, most likely, you do not need to run a gamma correction on a new projector.
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post #8178 of 13151 Old 03-20-2019, 07:43 AM
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I think I’m going to stay away from autocal.
The post you quoted contains a lot of old information. I and others had been advising not to use the first Autocal version because of a bug that didn't allow to restore the backup file. This has been solved with f/w V2.01 and the V1.10 of the JVC Autocal software (V11). As long as you follow the instructions and do not lose the backup created after your save your first autocal, it's perfectly fine to use it and it does help a lot.

For example, SirMaster recently reported an issue with high lamp, I suggested he used Autocal (gamma + color with a Spyder 5) to resolve it, and it did. He was very happy with the results. [EDIT: I see he's posted his results while I was typing this].

There is a whole thread about this topic (see my sig), with detailed explanations to supplement the user manual, detailed results, a FAQ and knowledgeable people to answer your questions.

If you're a technophobe and can't backup your iPhone, sure, stay away. But if you are technically minded it's a good way to improve the performance of the PJ if/when needed.
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JVC Autocal Software V11 Calibration for 2019 Models
Batch Utility V4.02 May 16 2019 to automate measurements files for madVR with support for BD Folders

Last edited by Manni01; 03-20-2019 at 08:07 AM.
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post #8179 of 13151 Old 03-20-2019, 08:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirMaster View Post
I tried restoring my INIT file and it only took about 5 minutes to reset. I redid my calibration for repeatability and got the same (great IMO) results.
That’s a major improvement over the eshift models, which take close to one hour to restore the Init file.
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post #8180 of 13151 Old 03-20-2019, 08:14 AM
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By the way... my NX9 went from 1 minute 45 seconds from power on to DLA logo, after v2.01, it now does it in 1 min 5 seconds.

JVC DLA-NX9 | Panasonic UB820 | Denon AVR-X6400H | Rotel RB 993 Amp | 135" 2:35:1 Elunevision Aurora NanoEdge Ambient Light Blocking Screen | Paradigm Monitor 11 v7, Monitor Center 3 v7, Monitor Surround 3 v7, CI Pro P65-R |
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post #8181 of 13151 Old 03-20-2019, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
The post you quoted contains a lot of old information. I and others had been advising not to use the first Autocal version because of a bug that didn't allow to restore the backup file. This has been solved with f/w V2.01 and the V1.10 of the JVC Autocal software (V11). As long as you follow the instructions and do not lose the backup created after your save your first autocal, it's perfectly fine to use it and it does help a lot.

For example, SirMaster recently reported an issue with high lamp, I suggested he used Autocal (gamma + color with a Spyder 5) to resolve it, and it did. He was very happy with the results. [EDIT: I see he's posted his results while I was typing this].

There is a whole thread about this topic (see my sig), with detailed explanations to supplement the user manual, detailed results, a FAQ and knowledgeable people to answer your questions.

If you're a technophobe and can't backup your iPhone, sure, stay away. But if you are technically minded it's a good way to improve the performance of the PJ if/when needed.
To add to the above.

Yes, I see essentially no harm in at least trying autocal as long as you understand and safely backup (multiple) copies of your INIT file.

I am pretty confident in the results I got actually. Since as I expected, I see almost no change in the low bulb mode with autocal (which is good IMO as it already looked excellent and correct to me). But the fact that autocal made my high bulb look just like my low bulb (except obviously much brighter) really gave me confidence that it is doing a decent calibration.

I actually had another veteran member of this forum over at my place when I ran the autocal and he was so pleased by the results he saw in before/after for my high bulb that he is ordering a Spyder5 for his NX7 even though he already owns an x-rite i1 pro ($1000+) and an x-rite i1Display pro.

So, that's a very experienced eye and my somewhat experienced eye that both thought autocal did a great job and got my NX5 ~90% of the way there to a calibrated image.
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post #8182 of 13151 Old 03-20-2019, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tigerhonaker View Post
Hey Mark,

I LUV (All-my-Remotes) and have no intention of switching to ANY single controller.










Terry
Quote:
Originally Posted by smitty View Post
I don't think Mark was saying the MX500 is the only solution, nor did it seem to me he was making a put-down. I interpreted his comments at as a light-hearted poke at people who use a whole bunch of remotes to control components in their HT.

And Terry's reply was along the same lines.
Smitty,

My comment back to Mark was exactly as you said, (Me Joking) around back to Mark.
Any of us that's been on AVS and certainly on the JVC threads all know how Mark is.

At 73 years old I really doubt that Mark thinks what he has to say to me on how many remotes I have and use mean anything at all to me.

He's a Good-Guy but just Full of Himself on giving Advise, sometimes, but he means well.

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post #8183 of 13151 Old 03-20-2019, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by coxy2416 View Post
The Harmony remotes are fantastic and very easy to setup. You can set them up on your computer or use the app on your phone. It really can’t get much easier!

The hub is a great feature to have so that you can control your devices from another room. I have all my electronics in a seperate room and the hub works flawlessly on them.
Yeah, I like the Harmony remotes also. I have a 650 in my HT to run everything (I think it was $49) and a Harmony Companion with a hub in my other TV room.

I had two MX-500's for a long time, maybe 12 to 15 years. I really liked them and they were very functional and could run basically everything. But I think their technology is a bit outdated (even though it works) and the new Harmony remotes with the computer interface via USB are significantly easier to program, and much easier when you want to change out a device like a TV or projector. I like them so much, I even got one for my 88-year old mother.

But like many things with this hobby, universal remotes are very much a matter of preference.
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post #8184 of 13151 Old 03-20-2019, 09:29 AM
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I'm another UR MX-500 owner that stores his MX-500 in a drawer. I use a Harmony 650 as my everyday remote and, frankly, it does everything I need. Every needed button can be programmed into the 650 and doing so is child's play compared to the pain-in-the-butt process to program an MX-500 (yes, I have the software to do it myself). And, holy cow, the batteries in the Harmony 650 last a REALLY long time. I only need to change batteries every 6 months or so.

For the Booth Bijou Garage Theater, I also own a Harmony Elite RF remote with hub receiver. The garage theater receives its video and audio feed from the equipment in our main viewing room (the feeds go through a wall to the garage). No line-of-sight to control the equipment with an IR remote.

Frankly, I prefer the button layout of the Harmony 650 to the more touchscreen-focused Harmony Elite. I wish Harmony would go back to making RF remotes with more real buttons and an LCD instead of a touchscreen.

I don't miss the MX-500 one single bit. I'll never go back to using it so I probably should put it up on eBay.

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post #8185 of 13151 Old 03-20-2019, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark Booth View Post
Frankly, I prefer the button layout of the Harmony 650 to the more touchscreen-focused Harmony Elite. I wish Harmony would go back to making RF remotes with more real buttons and an LCD instead of a touchscreen.
The Harmony Companion is a hub-based remote that uses real buttons.
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post #8186 of 13151 Old 03-20-2019, 09:43 AM
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The Harmony Companion is a hub-based remote that uses real buttons.
I have this in addition to the Harmony Elite. I like it, but the only downside is you cannot switch to a specific device and control that device the way you can with the LCD models. I use the companion in my HT because I would likely use the device remote if I needed to do something beyond watching a movie, in the living room setup I have the Elite and all of the remotes are put away.
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post #8187 of 13151 Old 03-20-2019, 09:57 AM
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I own both the Logitech Harmony One (IR) and the 900 (RF) remotes, both with rechargeable batteries. Although programming is not ultra user friendly, I find that the ability to program both the touch screen and physical buttons provides me with perfectly adequate performance for both "activity" and "device" management. I know that these remotes are a bit long in the tooth, but they are frequently available on eBay for under $40, sometimes with a hub included for the 900.

I've never been able to recapture the seamlessness of my original "Pronto" devices........

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post #8188 of 13151 Old 03-20-2019, 10:02 AM
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I use the Harmony Elite too - control my entire HT with it, lighting, everything. I actually mainly use the iPhone app that controls the hub, that way the remote is essentially always in my pocket, and the lock screen menu is very easy to access for simple pause and play commands.
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post #8189 of 13151 Old 03-20-2019, 10:08 AM
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The Official Universal vs Harmony Thread......


Oh but how we have devolved.


Don't dis on @markmon1 too overly much. He's opinionated, and rightly so since those older Univ. Remotes were /are pretty intuitive.


But...they are in no way better than let alone as good as a Harmony Elite RF. I don't know about others, but I can set up a Harmony w/4-6 components + Lighting in about 10 minutes (...not withstanding any Delayed commands...which are not possible (???) with the older Unv, Models) Not that the older MX500 isn't without redeeming qualities. It's Club-like heft and size is a good deterrent should anyone get too unruly during a screening.


But in truth, the one most advantageous feature of a Harmony is that it is far less imposing looking. I've seen many people (both Male & Female) shrink away in sheer terror over the sight of too many buttons. Whereas I have been lionized by those who found that pressing one Icon (Play a BluRay DVD) lowers the Lights, turns on all the Components in the correct sequence, and yeah...even turns on the Popcorn Popper.


Still trying to find the Codes that summon the Wife with my Beer though........

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post #8190 of 13151 Old 03-20-2019, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
The Official Universal vs Harmony Thread......


Oh but how we have devolved.


Don't dis on @markmon1 too overly much. He's opinionated, and rightly so since those older Univ. Remotes were /are pretty intuitive.


But...they are in no way better than let alone as good as a Harmony Elite RF. I don't know about others, but I can set up a Harmony w/4-6 components + Lighting in about 10 minutes (...not withstanding any Delayed commands...which are not possible (???) with the older Unv, Models) Not that the older MX500 isn't without redeeming qualities. It's Club-like heft and size is a good deterrent should anyone get too unruly during a screening.


But in truth, the one most advantageous feature of a Harmony is that it is far less imposing looking. I've seen many people (both Male & Female) shrink away in sheer terror over the sight of too many buttons. Whereas I have been lionized by those who found that pressing one Icon (Play a BluRay DVD) lowers the Lights, turns on all the Components in the correct sequence, and yeah...even turns on the Popcorn Popper.


Still trying to find the Codes that summon the Wife with my Beer though........
One other thing I would add for the Harmony hub products is bluetooth. Controlling the NVIDIA Shield via bluetooth vs IR is like night and day, much more responsive. And I am also able to use it to control my HTPC, which ends up being very responsive as well.
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