Official JVC RS3000/NX9 - JVC RS2000/NX7/N7 - JVC RS1000/NX5/N5 - Owners Thread - Page 274 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #8191 of 12836 Old 03-20-2019, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by dgrizzard View Post
I have this in addition to the Harmony Elite. I like it, but the only downside is you cannot switch to a specific device and control that device the way you can with the LCD models. I use the companion in my HT because I would likely use the device remote if I needed to do something beyond watching a movie, in the living room setup I have the Elite and all of the remotes are put away.
That is true.

While actually watching the movies I prefer physical buttons that I can press by feel. However, when using device control I usually have the movie paused, so using the phone/tablet is not too big a deal.
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post #8192 of 12836 Old 03-20-2019, 10:23 AM
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Since we're talking remotes:

For my purposes, the Harmony Hub and Remote (where the remote has physical buttons, very easy to use by feel when the room is completely dark), with various activities defined to start watching either a regular blu-ray, a UHD blu-ray, where part of the activity selects the proper User Mode for the Projector as well. What puts it over the top for me is pairing it with an Echo Dot. So I just say 'Alexa, turn on the regular blu-ray' or Alexa, turn on the UHD blu-ray,' or 'Alexa, turn on the Roku,' and everything takes place unattended.

I then use the physical remote to play and pause, control volume, and sometimes select a zoom pre-set.

Not saying this is the only way to do this, but this meets my needs and wants quite well.
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post #8193 of 12836 Old 03-20-2019, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
The Harmony Companion is a hub-based remote that uses real buttons.
dgizzard (above) points out the reason the Harmony Companion won't work for me. I need an LCD that adds additional custom functionality. I prefer it not be a touchscreen either. It's all too easy to accidentally touch the Harmony Elite touchscreen when reaching for it in the dark.

Mark
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post #8194 of 12836 Old 03-20-2019, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark Booth View Post
dgizzard (above) points out the reason the Harmony Companion won't work for me. I need an LCD that adds additional custom functionality. I prefer it not be a touchscreen either. It's all too easy to accidentally touch the Harmony Elite touchscreen when reaching for it in the dark.

Mark
Do you have an Elite now? It does have a screen lock function that you need to swipe to unlock the screen to combat this.
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post #8195 of 12836 Old 03-20-2019, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by SirMaster View Post
FWIW I love the results of my autocal.

Note that this is in HDR color profile watching UHD video. On my NX5, I noticed that when switching from low bulb to high bulb that high bulb looked very different. The color had a noticeable green tint to it and overall the colors, especially things like skin tones looked washed out or like desaturated. They just looked pale and slightly green rather than a healthy pinkish.

It was so distracting to me that I simply didn't want to use high bulb mode.

I tried using an X-rite i1 pro spectrophotometer to do a full grayscale white balance on a custom color temp. This improved things, but only slightly.

I decided to just take my Spyder5 and run a full (gamma + color) autocal. I did low bulb autocal first. After it was done I compared results and there was only a very, very minute difference in color, but certainly not in any negative way.

Then I did an autocal for my high bulb mode. After it completed and I went to check the results, I couldn't quite believe my eyes. There was a very noticeable difference to the color, and the color now looked exactly like low bulb mode. No more green tint, no more washed out skin tones. People had the perfectly pinkish skin that they do when in low bulb mode.

I tried restoring my INIT file and it only took about 5 minutes to reset. I redid my calibration for repeatability and got the same (great IMO) results.

Now I love watching high bulb mode, where as before I just didn't want to watch high bulb due to how poor the skin tones looked compared to low bulb.

So FWIW, I found a full autocal was overall excellent for my NX5 (at least for HDR color profile and high bulb mode). I can also mention the gamma, there was no noticeable adjustment to my gamma as my unit is new. The before and after gamma curve line were both already perfectly straight according to autocal.
SirMaster,

How exactly do you use the Spyder5 as far as position and supporting the meter? I have used my Spyder5 to calibrate monitors which is easy because that is it's primary design. It just hangs over the edge and lays on the monitor.

However, with a projector and screen I am not sure how it is typically supported. I know that it has to be positioned into a box on the screen and that it points at the projector but how is the meter supported. Do you use a tripod? Is the meter next to the screen, next to the projector, or somewhere in between.

I am asking because I haven't seen any setup instructions for using with a projector. Just with physical monitors.
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post #8196 of 12836 Old 03-20-2019, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by GregCh View Post
SirMaster,

How exactly do you use the Spyder5 as far as position and supporting the meter? I have used my Spyder5 to calibrate monitors which is easy because that is it's primary design. It just hangs over the edge and lays on the monitor.

However, with a projector and screen I am not sure how it is typically supported. I know that it has to be positioned into a box on the screen and that it points at the projector but how is the meter supported. Do you use a tripod? Is the meter next to the screen, next to the projector, or somewhere in between.

I am asking because I haven't seen any setup instructions for using with a projector. Just with physical monitors.
Yes the spyder senor faces the lens, and it should be supported on a tripod (it has a standard tripod mount).

Ideal setup is where the spyder's shadow falls in the center of your screen, and the small round reflection of the projector's light off the reflective spyder's sensor's face should be positioned just above or below the projectors lens. Finally you should move the spyder as close to the front of the autocal on-screen box (toward the projector lens) as possible.

When running autocal, the software will continuously read the spyder's sensor and in real-time it shows you on your computer screen if you have it at the correct distance or not. You can move your tripod forward and backwards and see the diagram on the monitor change in real-time.

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post #8197 of 12836 Old 03-20-2019, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark Booth View Post
dgizzard (above) points out the reason the Harmony Companion won't work for me. I need an LCD that adds additional custom functionality. I prefer it not be a touchscreen either. It's all too easy to accidentally touch the Harmony Elite touchscreen when reaching for it in the dark.

Mark
Depending on what specific functionality you need.

I program the colour buttons and the numeric buttons to do specific operations such as changing the HDMI input, zooming the lens to 16:9 and switching to the corresponding Picture Mode, etc.
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post #8198 of 12836 Old 03-20-2019, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by SirMaster View Post
Yes the spyder senor faces the lens, and it should be supported on a tripod (it has a standard tripod mount).

Ideal setup is where the spyder's shadow falls in the center of your screen, and the small round reflection of the projector's light off the reflective spyder's sensor's face should be positioned just above or below the projectors lens. Finally you should move the spyder as close to the front of the autocal on-screen box (toward the projector lens) as possible.

When running autocal, the software will continuously read the spyder's sensor and in real-time it shows you on your computer screen if you have it at the correct distance or not. You can move your tripod forward and backwards and see the diagram on the monitor change in real-time.
OK, thanks that sounds easy enough. I have never run the JVC autocal software and had only read a little from what Manni had posted for tips. The only part I was unsure about was the meter placement. But your explanation clears that up.
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post #8199 of 12836 Old 03-20-2019, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
The post you quoted contains a lot of old information. I and others had been advising not to use the first Autocal version because of a bug that didn't allow to restore the backup file. This has been solved with f/w V2.01 and the V1.10 of the JVC Autocal software (V11). As long as you follow the instructions and do not lose the backup created after your save your first autocal, it's perfectly fine to use it and it does help a lot.



For example, SirMaster recently reported an issue with high lamp, I suggested he used Autocal (gamma + color with a Spyder 5) to resolve it, and it did. He was very happy with the results.



There is a whole thread about this topic (see my sig), with detailed explanations to supplement the user manual, detailed results, a FAQ and knowledgeable people to answer your questions.



If you're a technophobe and can't backup your iPhone, sure, stay away. But if you are technically minded it's a good way to improve the performance of the PJ if/when needed.


:insert foot in mouth:



I know I can do it, I have several advanced projects technical-wise running in my home - it’s a liiiiiitle bit scary though in seeing that my RS2000 runs and looks flawless currently - and there are several things that could prevent me from getting another (short supply, shipping damage, DOA, BOA).
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post #8200 of 12836 Old 03-20-2019, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ScottieBoysName View Post
:insert foot in mouth:



I know I can do it, I have several advanced projects technical-wise running in my home - it’s a liiiiiitle bit scary though in seeing that my RS2000 runs and looks flawless currently - and there are several things that could prevent me from getting another (short supply, shipping damage, DOA, BOA).
If you don't need to do it, don't do it.

But if you think the picture could do with some improvement, then as long as you make multiple backups of the .INIT file you should be fine.

Note that you don't have to restore the .INIT file if you just get a bad calibration. You can run it again, and as long as it's with the same settings, it will replace the "wrong" one.

If you update the f/w, the Autocal itself poses no bigger risk of something going wrong. The risk is probably less important, as it doesn't touch the sofware that powers the unit, like the f/w update does, only some of the calibration tables.

This being said, if you don't feel comfortable upgrading the f/w, don't do it, enjoy your PJ, and ask a calibrator to tune it when/if needed.

These units are very close out of the box, so as long as nothing hurts your eyes, watch your content and be happy
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post #8201 of 12836 Old 03-20-2019, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
If you don't need to do it, don't do it.



But if you think the picture could do with some improvement, then as long as you make multiple backups of the .INIT file you should be fine.



Note that you don't have to restore the .INIT file if you just get a bad calibration. You can run it again, and as long as it's with the same settings, it will replace the "wrong" one.



If you update the f/w, the Autocal itself poses no bigger risk of something going wrong. The risk is probably less important, as it doesn't touch the sofware that powers the unit, like the f/w update does, only some of the calibration tables.



This being said, if you don't feel comfortable upgrading the f/w, don't do it, enjoy your PJ, and ask a calibrator to tune it when/if needed.



These units are very close out of the box, so as long as nothing hurts your eyes, watch your content and be happy


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post #8202 of 12836 Old 03-20-2019, 12:08 PM
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You guys seriously have like 10 remotes sitting around? I don't get it. As soon as I get a device, I program it into my MX500 and the remote gets put away until that device is sold. I have 3 identical MX500 remotes one at each main seating position in my room (so I don't have to get up to get a remote). They're all identical. I cant imagine fumbling around for the projector remote, then the receiver, then the BD player etc. What a disaster
I am with you on this. I use my 5 Pronto TSU9400 and 4 Harmony remotes similarly. I use the Prontos on the systems that I use the most as they are far and away more flexible than the Harmonys are. Trying to use a dozen or so different remotes to control each of my systems would get me committed.

1) JVC DLA-NX7 & Sony 65Z9D, Yamaha CX-A5200, Outlaw Audio 7900 & 7700, UDP-203, DP-UB9000, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
2) Sony 75Z9D, Yamaha RX-A3080, 2xOutlaw Audio 2200s, UDP-203, UBP-X700, Roku Ultra
3) Sony 75X940E, Yamaha RX-A2080, UDP-203, UBP-X700, Roku Ultra
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post #8203 of 12836 Old 03-20-2019, 12:41 PM
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I am with you on this. I use my 5 Pronto TSU9400 and 4 Harmony remotes similarly. I use the Prontos on the systems that I use the most as they are far and away more flexible than the Harmonys are. Trying to use a dozen or so different remotes to control each of my systems would get me committed.
Can the Pronto TSU9400 be programmed using Windows 7? My prior Pronto links (from the late 1990s) are basically defunct and were all based around Windows 95. I loved Pronto flexibility and it would be great if either of my 2 remaining Prontos could be made to work in my current HT.
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post #8204 of 12836 Old 03-20-2019, 12:43 PM
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I’m running 5 remotes right now. Sigh. So MX500 is what you’d suggest?
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The MX500 is discontinued. But you can find them on ebay and new on ebay still for pretty cheap.
Compared to some remotes, this is a drop in the bucket.......
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post #8205 of 12836 Old 03-20-2019, 12:54 PM
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Can the Pronto TSU9400 be programmed using Windows 7? My prior Pronto links (from the late 1990s) are basically defunct and were all based around Windows 95. I loved Pronto flexibility and it would be great if either of my 2 remaining Prontos could be made to work in my current HT.
Yes, I program my Prontos via Windows 7 (I have a couple of laptops that I use for that). The Prontos were discontinued back in 2010 (unfortunately) and programming them is not for the faint of heart. But I've been in software development for about 50 years so doing stuff like this is actually fun for me.


Here is some info for the later model Prontos: http://files.remotecentral.com/pront...5-1/index.html

1) JVC DLA-NX7 & Sony 65Z9D, Yamaha CX-A5200, Outlaw Audio 7900 & 7700, UDP-203, DP-UB9000, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
2) Sony 75Z9D, Yamaha RX-A3080, 2xOutlaw Audio 2200s, UDP-203, UBP-X700, Roku Ultra
3) Sony 75X940E, Yamaha RX-A2080, UDP-203, UBP-X700, Roku Ultra
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post #8206 of 12836 Old 03-20-2019, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by bwillcox View Post
Yes, I program my Prontos via Windows 7 (I have a couple of laptops that I use for that). The Prontos were discontinued back in 2010 (unfortunately) and programming them is not for the faint of heart. But I've been in software development for about 50 years so doing stuff like this is actually fun for me.

Here is some info for the later model Prontos: http://files.remotecentral.com/pront...5-1/index.html
I didn't think that Remote Central was still in existence! I'll check to see what firmware versions are currently installed. BTW, has Philips made any effort to update the Pronto database with regards to the codes for new AV gear? If not, it mans a lot of syncing remotes & may not be worth the effort.
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post #8207 of 12836 Old 03-20-2019, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by docrog View Post
I didn't think that Remote Central was still in existence! I'll check to see what firmware versions are currently installed. BTW, has Philips made any effort to update the Pronto database with regards to the codes for new AV gear? If not, it mans a lot of syncing remotes & may not be worth the effort.
I don't believe Philips has, but Remote Central has hex codes available for a number of newer products.

1) JVC DLA-NX7 & Sony 65Z9D, Yamaha CX-A5200, Outlaw Audio 7900 & 7700, UDP-203, DP-UB9000, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
2) Sony 75Z9D, Yamaha RX-A3080, 2xOutlaw Audio 2200s, UDP-203, UBP-X700, Roku Ultra
3) Sony 75X940E, Yamaha RX-A2080, UDP-203, UBP-X700, Roku Ultra
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post #8208 of 12836 Old 03-20-2019, 02:49 PM
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Since this has become a remote thread, let me just say you guys are killing me

I bagged Harmony a few years ago. I used an iPad with iRule for years and now use DemoPad. Everything is controlled via IP direct to the device or an ITach IP2IR in my control room. I couldn't go back to a conventional remote.

Way too much power with DemoPad to even consider anything else. Setting it up has a little bit of a steep learning curve, but it is really worth it IMO.
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post #8209 of 12836 Old 03-20-2019, 03:00 PM
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I'm another UR MX-500 owner that stores his MX-500 in a drawer. I use a Harmony 650 as my everyday remote and, frankly, it does everything I need. Every needed button can be programmed into the 650 and doing so is child's play compared to the pain-in-the-butt process to program an MX-500 (yes, I have the software to do it myself). And, holy cow, the batteries in the Harmony 650 last a REALLY long time. I only need to change batteries every 6 months or so.

For the Booth Bijou Garage Theater, I also own a Harmony Elite RF remote with hub receiver. The garage theater receives its video and audio feed from the equipment in our main viewing room (the feeds go through a wall to the garage). No line-of-sight to control the equipment with an IR remote.

Frankly, I prefer the button layout of the Harmony 650 to the more touchscreen-focused Harmony Elite. I wish Harmony would go back to making RF remotes with more real buttons and an LCD instead of a touchscreen.

I don't miss the MX-500 one single bit. I'll never go back to using it so I probably should put it up on eBay.

Mark
Harmony 650 looks great actually. No touch screen. How does one run say 3 of those in one room?

Are you sure you have an MX-500? Because your statement "pain-in-the-butt process to program an MX-500 (yes, I have the software to do it myself)" is a red flag. There is no software to do programming on the mx-500. Does yoru back light work on the MX500? If so I'll buy it.

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post #8210 of 12836 Old 03-20-2019, 03:52 PM
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What is everyone using to stream Netflix to their new JVCs? I was going to use Windows 10 App but its a PITA to switch everything over to get HDR and use a remote. Apple TV is the only streaming box I saw that does Atmos and 4k/HDR but I remember reading it sends out wonky HDR metadata and I am planning on using the JVC auto tone mapping. What is the best option between a Roku, FireTV 4K and ShieldTV? Does one of these handle 24hz switching and HDR metadata correctly? Sucks they cannot do Atmos on Netflix though.....
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post #8211 of 12836 Old 03-20-2019, 03:59 PM
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Guys, I think we are digressing...let’s get back to the projector topics instead of comparing universal remote controllers. I believe there is a dedicated thread in AVSforum?



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post #8212 of 12836 Old 03-20-2019, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by grendelrt View Post
What is everyone using to stream Netflix to their new JVCs? I was going to use Windows 10 App but its a PITA to switch everything over to get HDR and use a remote. Apple TV is the only streaming box I saw that does Atmos and 4k/HDR but I remember reading it sends out wonky HDR metadata and I am planning on using the JVC auto tone mapping. What is the best option between a Roku, FireTV 4K and ShieldTV? Does one of these handle 24hz switching and HDR metadata correctly? Sucks they cannot do Atmos on Netflix though.....


Use Xbox One X Netflix app. It supports everything from Dolby Atmos to 4K HDR (DV). And what’s more, the Dolby Atmos sound is much better than the Apple TV 4K which always sounded very “soft”.



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post #8213 of 12836 Old 03-20-2019, 04:03 PM
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What is everyone using to stream Netflix to their new JVCs? I was going to use Windows 10 App but its a PITA to switch everything over to get HDR and use a remote. Apple TV is the only streaming box I saw that does Atmos and 4k/HDR but I remember reading it sends out wonky HDR metadata and I am planning on using the JVC auto tone mapping. What is the best option between a Roku, FireTV 4K and ShieldTV? Does one of these handle 24hz switching and HDR metadata correctly? Sucks they cannot do Atmos on Netflix though.....
I think AppleTV works the best. It has Dolby Atmos Sound and supports DolbyVision and HDR10. HDR10 metadata from HDR10 content is fine no issues. There was a problem with DolbyVision because Apple had to convert DolbyVision streams to HDR10 meta data for HDR10 only projectors. However that seems to have improved. Lately all of the DolbyVision titles I have watched on Netflix are now sending what appears to be correct HDR10 metadata.

The sound I get from Dolby Atmos on my AppleTV is the best quality sound I have heard on my system next to Blu-ray Dolby Atmos. I also think iTunes streaming 4k UltraHD titles are extremely high quality and reasonably priced compared to Blu-ray physical media.
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Last edited by GregCh; 03-20-2019 at 04:08 PM.
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post #8214 of 12836 Old 03-20-2019, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by GregCh View Post
I think AppleTV works the best. It has Dolby Atmos Sound and supports DolbyVision and HDR10. HDR10 metadata from HDR10 content is fine no issues. There was a problem with DolbyVision because Apple had to convert DolbyVision streams to HDR10 meta data for HDR10 only projectors. However that seems to improved. Lately all of the DolbyVision titles I have watched on Netflix are now sending what appears to be correct HDR10 metadata.
Thanks, was that only an issue with like Itunes movies then since it was DV? Isn't most Netflix content in HDR10?

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post #8215 of 12836 Old 03-20-2019, 04:11 PM
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Thanks, was that only an issue with like Itunes then since it was DV? Isn't most Netflix content in HDR10?
No, a lot of Netflix was DolbyVision and since there is no requirement to supply HDR10 metadata for DolbyVision titles it seemed like Apple's solution was either default to a fixed 4000/1000 for MaxCLL/MaxFALL or it would sometimes randomly change during content which caused a re-sync on the Sony projectors. However Sony fixed the re-sync issue and it appears Netflix has fixed the most recent DolbyVision titles so that they seem to be sending proper HDR10 metadata.

I have been real happy with the latest HDR video quality on my RS3000. It seems to handle all of the content very well. Also later this month Apple is going to be releasing an entire new streaming service. So I would wait as there may be a new improved AppleTV and Apple streaming service available soon.
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post #8216 of 12836 Old 03-20-2019, 04:22 PM
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Are you sure you have an MX-500? Because your statement "pain-in-the-butt process to program an MX-500 (yes, I have the software to do it myself)" is a red flag. There is no software to do programming on the mx-500. Does yoru back light work on the MX500? If so I'll buy it.
Oops, my mistake. I own an MX-500 but it's the MX-800 (which I also own) that I was thinking of (the 800 is basically an RF version of the 500). The MX-800 is the one that uses PC software for programming. It's more versatile than the MX-500 but has a much bigger (pain-in-the-butt) learning curve.

Both my MX-500 and MX-800 are in excellent condition and, as far as I know, still function like new. However, I'm not interested in selling them.




The batteries are removed from both of them for storage.

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post #8217 of 12836 Old 03-20-2019, 05:01 PM
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What is everyone using to stream Netflix to their new JVCs? I was going to use Windows 10 App but its a PITA to switch everything over to get HDR and use a remote. Apple TV is the only streaming box I saw that does Atmos and 4k/HDR but I remember reading it sends out wonky HDR metadata and I am planning on using the JVC auto tone mapping. What is the best option between a Roku, FireTV 4K and ShieldTV? Does one of these handle 24hz switching and HDR metadata correctly? Sucks they cannot do Atmos on Netflix though.....
All 3 streaming HDR apps (Netflix, Amazon Prime, You Tube) look most excellent on my NX7 through the Panasonic UB820 because of the tone mapping function prior to the NX7. My only complaint is that there is occasional judder seen with some Amazon titles (for example, The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel). Otherwise everything has been flawless.
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post #8218 of 12836 Old 03-20-2019, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by GregCh View Post
I think AppleTV works the best. It has Dolby Atmos Sound and supports DolbyVision and HDR10. HDR10 metadata from HDR10 content is fine no issues. There was a problem with DolbyVision because Apple had to convert DolbyVision streams to HDR10 meta data for HDR10 only projectors. However that seems to have improved. Lately all of the DolbyVision titles I have watched on Netflix are now sending what appears to be correct HDR10 metadata.



The sound I get from Dolby Atmos on my AppleTV is the best quality sound I have heard on my system next to Blu-ray Dolby Atmos. I also think iTunes streaming 4k UltraHD titles are extremely high quality and reasonably priced compared to Blu-ray physical media.

You and me have very different “sound” experience with Apple TV. I felt the sound is anemic at best.




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post #8219 of 12836 Old 03-20-2019, 05:22 PM
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Looking forward to next week Apple event when they announce their streaming services and hopefully we can have more options to choose.


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post #8220 of 12836 Old 03-20-2019, 07:14 PM
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You and me have very different “sound” experience with Apple TV. I felt the sound is anemic at best.




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Yeah, I saw that after I posted.

I don't know what to tell you but I have been very impressed with Dolby Atmos on ATV4k. I just watched Mad Max Fury Road last night streaming on ATV4k iTunes and it was spectacular. Even my 33 year old son was blown away and he is pretty critical of sound systems.
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