Official JVC RS3000/NX9 - JVC RS2000/NX7/N7 - JVC RS1000/NX5/N5 - Owners Thread - Page 305 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #9121 of 13950 Old 04-06-2019, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyWilkinson View Post
Exactly - thank you.

So, do you know how far the lens centre is from the bottom of the projector?
Not sure why “x” in your diagram matters. Are you shelf mounting the projector, or mounting it upside down with a projector mount? The mount will take way more space than the feet.

In any case, the following diagram gives you the dimensions.
https://eu.jvc.com/microsite/eu/NX9N7N5/spec.html

Last edited by Dominic Chan; 04-06-2019 at 08:30 AM.
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post #9122 of 13950 Old 04-06-2019, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coxy2416 View Post
I have the X790 and would like to hear how your upgrade went and how big a difference there is between the two projectors.
Talked to a guy yesterday that has an RS640 and an RS1000 in his room together. He actually liked the 1000 better. He was viewing HDR content using a Panasonic 9000. Though I will say, he has his in a family room with light colored walls and white ceiling, so the room is limiting the contrast that he is seeing on screen. Said you could definitely tell the 1000 was sharper and the auto tone mapping of HDR was much better.
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post #9123 of 13950 Old 04-06-2019, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
Not sure why “x” in your diagram matters. Are you shelf mounting the projector, or mounting it upside down with a projector mount? The mount will take way more space than the feet.
The projector will sit on the bottom (1cm thickness) of the soffit itself. Like a shelf, but in the ceiling. The soffit is dropped 20cm below the 'real' ceiling. In between the soffits, there is a star ceiling. I want to know how low the ceiling can be on the star ceiling area before it starts blocking the picture. That's why I need to know x.

Attached a picture. I drew in the projector using my expert paint skills. As you can see, the top part of the projector will end up in the ceiling cutout.



Cheers
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post #9124 of 13950 Old 04-06-2019, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loggeo View Post
Happy you got your unit mate. I wish it didn't have streaking though. Looking forward to your impressions after you watch some content.
In the mean time my nightmare continues as my dealer informed me that there is only 25% chance that he will receive before Easter.

So just to summarize what we have read so far in this thread. New units don't have yellowing, old ones do. Firmware 2.04 has nothing to do with fixing it. And this is not a hardware problem?
Except new units do still have the yellowing. Has been confirmed on a 2.04 firmware RS3000. This yellowing problem depending on settings can be very subtle, so it can be easy to miss.
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post #9125 of 13950 Old 04-06-2019, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyWilkinson View Post
The projector will sit on the bottom (1cm thickness) of the soffit itself. Like a shelf, but in the ceiling. The soffit is dropped 20cm below the 'real' ceiling. In between the soffits, there is a star ceiling. I want to know how low the ceiling can be on the star ceiling area before it starts blocking the picture. That's why I need to know x.

Attached a picture. I drew in the projector using my expert paint skills. As you can see, the top part of the projector will end up in the ceiling cutout.



Cheers
See my previous reply (updated to include the dimensions).
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post #9126 of 13950 Old 04-06-2019, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyWilkinson View Post
The projector will sit on the bottom (1cm thickness) of the soffit itself. Like a shelf, but in the ceiling. The soffit is dropped 20cm below the 'real' ceiling. In between the soffits, there is a star ceiling. I want to know how low the ceiling can be on the star ceiling area before it starts blocking the picture. That's why I need to know x.

Attached a picture. I drew in the projector using my expert paint skills. As you can see, the top part of the projector will end up in the ceiling cutout.



Cheers
See my previous reply (updated to include the dimensions). Note you will also need space above it for proper ventilation.
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post #9127 of 13950 Old 04-06-2019, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
See my previous reply (updated to include the dimensions). Note you will also need space above it for proper ventilation.
Thank you very much for the dimensions - perfect. Yes, fortunately, I'm able to cut into the real ceiling height significantly, as it's a block and beam concrete / steel structure. I'll have 15cm height above the 'real' ceiling, on top of the 20cm soffit space.

Cheers
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post #9128 of 13950 Old 04-06-2019, 08:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyWilkinson View Post
The projector will sit on the bottom (1cm thickness) of the soffit itself. Like a shelf, but in the ceiling. The soffit is dropped 20cm below the 'real' ceiling. In between the soffits, there is a star ceiling. I want to know how low the ceiling can be on the star ceiling area before it starts blocking the picture. That's why I need to know x.

Attached a picture. I drew in the projector using my expert paint skills. As you can see, the top part of the projector will end up in the ceiling cutout.



Cheers
Going to start calling you Pablo Picasso.
If I had my 3000, I would measure it for you, but keep in mind, you will need to adjust the feet to level the projector, so do not use the minimum measurement with feet fully retracted.
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post #9129 of 13950 Old 04-06-2019, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by JaremyP View Post
Paid for my NX7 yesterday. Should have it early next week. Upgrading from an X790.
You can bet people are going to want to hear feedback on that switch.
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post #9130 of 13950 Old 04-06-2019, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
Going to start calling you Pablo Picasso.
If I had my 3000, I would measure it for you, but keep in mind, you will need to adjust the feet to level the projector, so do not use the minimum measurement with feet fully retracted.
I just measured my RS3000 for you. X=110mm on my setup for 16:9 and 2.35:1 which is probably the lowest X value you can get. I'm actually at 105mm and allowed an extra for 5mm in feet adjustment. Yes, that's below the centerline of the lens at 124mm but consider that my lens shift is at 95% (nearly in the stars!). You can see the image outline in the picture below, as soon as my card showed some blue tinting I lifted it up and checked no interference with the screen. Remember these units vary a bit. Hope this helps.
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post #9131 of 13950 Old 04-06-2019, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Vintage12 View Post
I just measured my RS3000 for you. X=110mm on my setup for 16:9 and 2.35:1 which is probably the lowest X value you can get. I'm actually at 105mm and allowed an extra for 5mm in feet adjustment. Yes, that's below the centerline of the lens at 124mm but consider that my lens shift is at 95% (nearly in the stars!). You can see the image outline in the picture below, as soon as my card showed some blue tinting I lifted it up and checked no interference with the screen. Remember these units vary a bit. Hope this helps.
That is incredibly helpful - thank you sir!
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post #9132 of 13950 Old 04-06-2019, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by desray2k View Post
You should play with your Panasonic settings. What is the setting you set on your Panny advanced video settings? Try to set the Color bit-depth to 10/12bit. You can set the Color space to either 4:2:2 and then let the projector to do the rest of the conversion. It should help with the banding issue.

As for the images you depicted, yes that’s what Manni is trying to say when you want to illustrate that the actual video signal put out by a source is saying one thing but the JVC display is showing something else. And one way to find out the exact output from the source to the display is to cycle to the desired Color space on your JVC to detect the anomalies as it will not appear if set to Auto.



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I'm thinking the banding in that specific scene is in the source and only on that scene, I tried every setting on the Panasonic and the banding is still there. Setting it at 4:2:2, either 10 bit or 12 bit priority makes no difference.
The other thing that is confusing is when I set the HTPC to 12bit RGB full at 23/24Hz, everything is correct, on the desk top and through MPC with MadVR.
Choosing those settings on the Panasonic displays that pink and green image.
I believe part of the problem with the UB900 is that it's own on screen display is set at 60hz and the JVC displays this up in the corner, but when it switches to the native 23.976 fps/hz to the disc, I don't think it's switching properly.

At any rate, I watched Bumblebee with MadVR and it was stellar, the fire, lights, dark scenes and details, it put the 300es to shame, there was no comparison.
I let MadVR process the HDR and compared it to the HDR tone mapping on the JVC, I found both were very good.

Last edited by JeffR1; 04-06-2019 at 11:12 AM.
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post #9133 of 13950 Old 04-06-2019, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by gonzalc3 View Post
About two months ago, I upgraded from the rs540 to the rs2000.

The rs2000 is noticeably sharper. Also, motion is a bit better, and somehow has more ”calmless.” Despite that the native contrast is lower, I haven’t felt lacking it either.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Yes the previous generations (2010-2018) of JVC doesn't have a calm image, which I'm sensitive to flicker. That was obvious to me when I upgraded from a 2009 JVC RS20/HD750. Good to know the 2019 models have restored this quality.
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post #9134 of 13950 Old 04-06-2019, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Drem View Post
Yesterday I once again had the issue on my N7 with the DI sometimes closing down way to low in dark scenes. All material, all modes. This seem to happen when PJ is just started. Something triggers this.

To get things back to normal it seems I have to turn off the PJ and pull the plug. Normal restart does not reset the DI.

I am experimenting with the order I turn things on. This happened only three times in 300 hours so no big deal. Anyone else experienced this?

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I am also experiencing random clamping down of the iris. In my case I had just changed a screen memory from one setting to another, this seemed to cause the iris to close down and stay there. I then tried to change the iris in manual mode through the various positions, 0 thru -15 and back several times. Initially the iris would not change and then gradually it started to show changes in light output. While it seems to be working now, I would not describe the changes in light output from one click to the next as being equal. Between -9 thru -5 there are small changes and then a very large change between -5 and -4. Also the sounds that it makes are not heard during each change, just between certain numbers, like -4 thru -5. Trying to remember if my RS600 behaved this way. Hopefully a small bug.
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post #9135 of 13950 Old 04-07-2019, 02:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill DePalma View Post
I am also experiencing random clamping down of the iris. In my case I had just changed a screen memory from one setting to another, this seemed to cause the iris to close down and stay there. I then tried to change the iris in manual mode through the various positions, 0 thru -15 and back several times. Initially the iris would not change and then gradually it started to show changes in light output. While it seems to be working now, I would not describe the changes in light output from one click to the next as being equal. Between -9 thru -5 there are small changes and then a very large change between -5 and -4. Also the sounds that it makes are not heard during each change, just between certain numbers, like -4 thru -5. Trying to remember if my RS600 behaved this way. Hopefully a small bug.
I thought about doing a factory reset. Did you try this? Maybe some other users can confirm also the manual aperture changes makes the sound every other step and not every step. I guess this is normal?

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post #9136 of 13950 Old 04-07-2019, 05:27 AM
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Official JVC RS3000/NX9 - JVC RS2000/NX7/N7 - JVC RS1000/NX5/N5 - Owners Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by gonzalc3 View Post
About two months ago, I upgraded from the rs540 to the rs2000.

The rs540/x790 has better black levels.

The rs2000 is noticeably sharper. Also, motion is a bit better, and somehow has more ”calmless.” Despite that the native contrast is lower, I haven’t felt lacking it either.

Overall, it has better picture quality. Although the improvement will not be a day to night difference.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I’m hoping this will be more noticeable in my room. 135” Cima Neve sitting ~13 ft back. I expect to really be able to benefit from the sharpness upgrade and removal of eshift. My room is black and light controlled, so I think the black level difference will be not as noticeable. I will post my impressions once I have it hung. Can try for some screenshots too. Will be sometime later next week or weekend.

Speaking of the NX7, I’ve fallen behind on the thread a bit the last couple of weeks. Is there a recommended settings for initial use for any of the parameters out of the box, especially with my room details in mind?


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Video: JVC NX7, Stewart Cima Neve 135"
Audio: Marantz AV7704, Emotiva XPA-11 Gen 3
Speakers: Focal Electra 1038 Be x 2, Electra CC 1008 Be, Aria 906 x 8, REL S5 SHO x 2
Sources: Apple TV 4k, Kaleidescape Strato, Oppo 203, Xbox One X, Nintendo Switch
Xbox Live: TrackZ

Last edited by JaremyP; 04-07-2019 at 05:30 AM.
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post #9137 of 13950 Old 04-07-2019, 05:33 AM
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Just got my NX7/RS2000, couldn't be more excited, coming from a Sony HW40ES which has served me great for 4 years. I have the new projector installed now. I used to use a HTPC with MadVR to do HDR tone mapping for my non HDR projector. Unfortunately just found out the graphics card (GTX 670M) that was in this semi old laptop doesn't support 4K resolutions 😞 so now have to figure out a new HTPC solution. However I also have an Nvidia shield which should work great as it suports HDR 10. I have to say the picture looks great except that the brightness of HDR movies seems abnormally low, like I have to strain to see the picture. I have tried both HDR/2020 color spaces to turn the filter on and off but that really makes little difference. I have the iris set to manual and 0 as well.. gamma is HDR PQ, 2.2-2.6 all seem washed out. Do people find they have to increase the brightness slider more? Just curious what I might be doing wrong. Black levels look great and test pattern shows it's not crushing blacks. I will say SDR looks perfect and bright.. so thinking it has to be a setting or calibration... I do plan on getting a Spyder Pro to do a proper calibration but just trying to do some basic setup first.
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post #9138 of 13950 Old 04-07-2019, 05:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyWilkinson View Post
The projector will sit on the bottom (1cm thickness) of the soffit itself. Like a shelf, but in the ceiling. The soffit is dropped 20cm below the 'real' ceiling. In between the soffits, there is a star ceiling. I want to know how low the ceiling can be on the star ceiling area before it starts blocking the picture. That's why I need to know x.

Attached a picture. I drew in the projector using my expert paint skills. As you can see, the top part of the projector will end up in the ceiling cutout.



Cheers
This looks like it'll be a disaster to be honest. You need your projector to be square to the screen. You cannot put it in a crown molded ceiling and angle it slightly down and expect it to not look like a huge trapezoid on the screen. It can point right to the top of the screen as long as it points perfectly straight. Then lens shift can bring the image down.

Video: JVC RS4500 135" screen in pure black room no light, htpc nvidia 1080ti.
Audio: Anthem mrx720 running 7.1.4, McIntosh MC-303, MC-152, B&W 802d3 LR, B&W HTM1D3 center, B&W 805d3 surround, B&W 702S2 rear, B&W 706s2 x 4 shelf mounted for atmos, 2 sub arrays both infinite baffle: 4x15 fi audio running on behringer ep4000 + 4x12 fi audio running on 2nd ep4000.
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post #9139 of 13950 Old 04-07-2019, 05:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffR1 View Post
I'm thinking the banding in that specific scene is in the source and only on that scene, I tried every setting on the Panasonic and the banding is still there. Setting it at 4:2:2, either 10 bit or 12 bit priority makes no difference.
The other thing that is confusing is when I set the HTPC to 12bit RGB full at 23/24Hz, everything is correct, on the desk top and through MPC with MadVR.
Choosing those settings on the Panasonic displays that pink and green image.
I believe part of the problem with the UB900 is that it's own on screen display is set at 60hz and the JVC displays this up in the corner, but when it switches to the native 23.976 fps/hz to the disc, I don't think it's switching properly.

At any rate, I watched Bumblebee with MadVR and it was stellar, the fire, lights, dark scenes and details, it put the 300es to shame, there was no comparison.
I let MadVR process the HDR and compared it to the HDR tone mapping on the JVC, I found both were very good.
MadVR processes everything in RGB space and results in dithering so you'll never get banding using it. I run RGB 8 bit on my HTPC.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KanosWRX View Post
Just got my NX7/RS2000, couldn't be more excited, coming from a Sony HW40ES which has served me great for 4 years. I have the new projector installed now. I used to use a HTPC with MadVR to do HDR tone mapping for my non HDR projector. Unfortunately just found out the graphics card (GTX 670M) that was in this semi old laptop doesn't support 4K resolutions 😞 so now have to figure out a new HTPC solution. However I also have an Nvidia shield which should work great as it suports HDR 10. I have to say the picture looks great except that the brightness of HDR movies seems abnormally low, like I have to strain to see the picture. I have tried both HDR/2020 color spaces to turn the filter on and off but that really makes little difference. I have the iris set to manual and 0 as well.. gamma is HDR PQ, 2.2-2.6 all seem washed out. Do people find they have to increase the brightness slider more? Just curious what I might be doing wrong. Black levels look great and test pattern shows it's not crushing blacks. I will say SDR looks perfect and bright.. so thinking it has to be a setting or calibration... I do plan on getting a Spyder Pro to do a proper calibration but just trying to do some basic setup first.
There will be no comparison between output of an nvidia shield and an HTPC with madVR in both upscaling and tone mapping. It's not even close.
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Video: JVC RS4500 135" screen in pure black room no light, htpc nvidia 1080ti.
Audio: Anthem mrx720 running 7.1.4, McIntosh MC-303, MC-152, B&W 802d3 LR, B&W HTM1D3 center, B&W 805d3 surround, B&W 702S2 rear, B&W 706s2 x 4 shelf mounted for atmos, 2 sub arrays both infinite baffle: 4x15 fi audio running on behringer ep4000 + 4x12 fi audio running on 2nd ep4000.

Last edited by markmon1; 04-07-2019 at 05:39 AM.
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post #9140 of 13950 Old 04-07-2019, 05:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill DePalma View Post
I am also experiencing random clamping down of the iris. In my case I had just changed a screen memory from one setting to another, this seemed to cause the iris to close down and stay there. I then tried to change the iris in manual mode through the various positions, 0 thru -15 and back several times. Initially the iris would not change and then gradually it started to show changes in light output. While it seems to be working now, I would not describe the changes in light output from one click to the next as being equal. Between -9 thru -5 there are small changes and then a very large change between -5 and -4. Also the sounds that it makes are not heard during each change, just between certain numbers, like -4 thru -5. Trying to remember if my RS600 behaved this way. Hopefully a small bug.
The part about the steps not being equal is normal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drem View Post
I thought about doing a factory reset. Did you try this? Maybe some other users can confirm also the manual aperture changes makes the sound every other step and not every step. I guess this is normal?
Also normal. The noise is the lamp iris. Lens iris runs say on odds and lamp iris runs on evens.
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Video: JVC RS4500 135" screen in pure black room no light, htpc nvidia 1080ti.
Audio: Anthem mrx720 running 7.1.4, McIntosh MC-303, MC-152, B&W 802d3 LR, B&W HTM1D3 center, B&W 805d3 surround, B&W 702S2 rear, B&W 706s2 x 4 shelf mounted for atmos, 2 sub arrays both infinite baffle: 4x15 fi audio running on behringer ep4000 + 4x12 fi audio running on 2nd ep4000.
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post #9141 of 13950 Old 04-07-2019, 05:49 AM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
This looks like it'll be a disaster to be honest. You need your projector to be square to the screen. You cannot put it in a crown molded ceiling and angle it slightly down and expect it to not look like a huge trapezoid on the screen. It can point right to the top of the screen as long as it points perfectly straight. Then lens shift can bring the image down.
I probably haven't described it properly. There will be no angling. It'll be no different to a normal ceiling installation, so I don't believe it will be a disaster - that's a bit strong!

The only difference is that the ceiling in front is dropped slightly (star ceiling), and I wanted to make sure that I raise that part high enough not to block the projector. The section in which the projector will sit will have dedicated air conditioning / extraction.

I've overlaid on this projector diagram where the ceiling will fall, hope that makes it clearer:



Cheers
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post #9142 of 13950 Old 04-07-2019, 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnnyWilkinson View Post
I probably haven't described it properly. There will be no angling. It'll be no different to a normal ceiling installation, so I don't believe it will be a disaster - that's a bit strong!

The only difference is that the ceiling in front is dropped slightly (star ceiling), and I wanted to make sure that I raise that part high enough not to block the projector. The section in which the projector will sit will have dedicated air conditioning / extraction.

I've overlaid on this projector diagram where the ceiling will fall, hope that makes it clearer:

Spoiler!


Cheers
Man that is just a ton of lens shift. My screen is 3" below the ceiling and my projector is shelf mounted at the ceiling, but with no lens shift, I at least have some of the image on my screen. You're diagram looks like it'll be more than 100% lens shift. I am not sure if that's even going to work. And if it does, that much shift will make focus and convergence worse.

Can you move it to the back wall on a shelf like this instead?

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Video: JVC RS4500 135" screen in pure black room no light, htpc nvidia 1080ti.
Audio: Anthem mrx720 running 7.1.4, McIntosh MC-303, MC-152, B&W 802d3 LR, B&W HTM1D3 center, B&W 805d3 surround, B&W 702S2 rear, B&W 706s2 x 4 shelf mounted for atmos, 2 sub arrays both infinite baffle: 4x15 fi audio running on behringer ep4000 + 4x12 fi audio running on 2nd ep4000.

Last edited by markmon1; 04-07-2019 at 05:56 AM.
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post #9143 of 13950 Old 04-07-2019, 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
Man that is just a ton of lens shift. My screen is 3" below the ceiling and my projector is shelf mounted at the ceiling, but with no lens shift, I at least have some of the image on my screen. You're diagram looks like it'll be more than 100% lens shift. I am not sure if that's even going to work. And if it does, that much shift will make focus and convergence worse.
According to the calculator, it'll work with a decent amount of room to spare. It's not particularly atypical placement in my view... but I will make sure that whatever projector I get can handle it.

34.9% vertical lens shift.



Edit: there's no back wall :-)
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post #9144 of 13950 Old 04-07-2019, 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by KanosWRX View Post
Just got my NX7/RS2000, couldn't be more excited, coming from a Sony HW40ES which has served me great for 4 years. I have the new projector installed now. I used to use a HTPC with MadVR to do HDR tone mapping for my non HDR projector. Unfortunately just found out the graphics card (GTX 670M) that was in this semi old laptop doesn't support 4K resolutions 😞 so now have to figure out a new HTPC solution. However I also have an Nvidia shield which should work great as it suports HDR 10. I have to say the picture looks great except that the brightness of HDR movies seems abnormally low, like I have to strain to see the picture. I have tried both HDR/2020 color spaces to turn the filter on and off but that really makes little difference. I have the iris set to manual and 0 as well.. gamma is HDR PQ, 2.2-2.6 all seem washed out. Do people find they have to increase the brightness slider more? Just curious what I might be doing wrong. Black levels look great and test pattern shows it's not crushing blacks. I will say SDR looks perfect and bright.. so thinking it has to be a setting or calibration... I do plan on getting a Spyder Pro to do a proper calibration but just trying to do some basic setup first.
What size and material is your screen? I have the equivalent of a 150” diagonal 16x9 screen with .94 gain and it lights it up perfectly fine, not dim at all. When you say “Do people find they have to increase the brightness slider more?” You shouldn’t need to increase the brightness control at all, are you talking about the tone mapping slider? I find +3 or +4 works well for me depending on the film.

Are you in high lamp?
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post #9145 of 13950 Old 04-07-2019, 05:59 AM
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There will be no comparison between output of an nvidia shield and an HTPC with madVR in both upscaling and tone mapping. It's not even close.
Oh don't get me wrong, love MadVR. Maybe I wasn't as clear though, I am not concerned as much with the tone mapping as much as the overall brightness when watching HDR content. Like I said SDR looks great, very bright. However HDR seems abnormally dark.. maybe it is the built in tone mapping making everything darker then it should..
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post #9146 of 13950 Old 04-07-2019, 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by ckgolf View Post
What size and material is your screen? I have the equivalent of a 150” diagonal 16x9 screen with .94 gain and it lights it up perfectly fine, not dim at all. When you say “Do people find they have to increase the brightness slider more?” You shouldn’t need to increase the brightness control at all, are you talking about the tone mapping slider? I find +3 or +4 works well for me depending on the film.
I have the same size screen, fully light controlled theater room as well. I will have to test the tone mapping slider, thanks for that tip, will report back soon.
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post #9147 of 13950 Old 04-07-2019, 06:13 AM
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34.9% vertical lens shift.
That can’t be right. By definition the vertical offset will be 50% if the projector is at the height of top of screen. Since your projector is higher, the lens shift cannot be just 34.9%.

EDIT: The above assumes a 16:9 screen.

Last edited by Dominic Chan; 04-07-2019 at 06:23 AM.
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post #9148 of 13950 Old 04-07-2019, 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
That can’t be right. By definition the vertical offset will be 50% if the projector is at the height of top of screen. Since your projector is higher, the lens shift cannot be just 34.9%.
This is also what I was trying to say. But I plugged in the benq lk970 and room and screen dimensions we just installed, which is at max vertical shift, and it works. So if those numbers are off, perhaps it at least knows what will work and what wont.

Video: JVC RS4500 135" screen in pure black room no light, htpc nvidia 1080ti.
Audio: Anthem mrx720 running 7.1.4, McIntosh MC-303, MC-152, B&W 802d3 LR, B&W HTM1D3 center, B&W 805d3 surround, B&W 702S2 rear, B&W 706s2 x 4 shelf mounted for atmos, 2 sub arrays both infinite baffle: 4x15 fi audio running on behringer ep4000 + 4x12 fi audio running on 2nd ep4000.
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post #9149 of 13950 Old 04-07-2019, 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
That can’t be right. By definition the vertical offset will be 50% if the projector is at the height of top of screen. Since your projector is higher, the lens shift cannot be just 34.9%.
Yep, not sure why it describes it as 34.9%. Perhaps it's not possible. I'll have to double check. Cheers

Edit: so I checked the manuals, the NX9 is capable of -100% vertical shift. So the tool is correct, it just describes it as half what it should be. It should be 69.8%. Interestingly, the NX5 and 7 can only do -80%.
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post #9150 of 13950 Old 04-07-2019, 06:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KanosWRX View Post
Just got my NX7/RS2000, couldn't be more excited, coming from a Sony HW40ES which has served me great for 4 years. I have the new projector installed now. I used to use a HTPC with MadVR to do HDR tone mapping for my non HDR projector. Unfortunately just found out the graphics card (GTX 670M) that was in this semi old laptop doesn't support 4K resolutions 😞 so now have to figure out a new HTPC solution. However I also have an Nvidia shield which should work great as it suports HDR 10. I have to say the picture looks great except that the brightness of HDR movies seems abnormally low, like I have to strain to see the picture. I have tried both HDR/2020 color spaces to turn the filter on and off but that really makes little difference. I have the iris set to manual and 0 as well.. gamma is HDR PQ, 2.2-2.6 all seem washed out. Do people find they have to increase the brightness slider more? Just curious what I might be doing wrong. Black levels look great and test pattern shows it's not crushing blacks. I will say SDR looks perfect and bright.. so thinking it has to be a setting or calibration... I do plan on getting a Spyder Pro to do a proper calibration but just trying to do some basic setup first.

Have corresponded (pm’d) with numerous users on this unit and
your findings mirror exactly what we discuss--
all ecstatic with SDR performance and most HDR – most common complaint is
how HDR can look at times in low light scenes- washed out look so to speak –
Is kind of like most digital cameras –
Image detail/quality is spectacular in well-lit areas but can suffer in darker arrears-
Another thing too is that some discs are just filmed a certain way
And maybe not as pleasing to your eye as others –
Its just the way it's filmed -you will likely find in correspondence with others that material you find lacking is perceived similarly by other-

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