Official JVC RS3000/NX9 - JVC RS2000/NX7/N7 - JVC RS1000/NX5/N5 - Owners Thread - Page 315 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #9421 of 17890 Old 04-11-2019, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by bwillcox View Post
All this talk of aspect ratio reminded me of when I watched Aquaman UHD blu-ray last week. Its AR switch between 2.35 and 1.78 often, with 1.78 being the most prevalent. My screen is a 16x9 so it simply switched between letter boxed and full screen. With a 2.35 screen what is the effect of having the movie do this switching?


Yea that’s why I decided to get a 140” 16:9. Some of the content I watch has variable aspect ratios.


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post #9422 of 17890 Old 04-11-2019, 03:21 PM
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I have to agree with wombats as someone who is also horizontally constrained. I get no benefit by going to a 2.39 setup other than losing height. My movies would be no wider and the few tv shows or 1.78 movies I watch would be much smaller. I run all my movies off Madvr as it is with some black bar reduction. So I still have some black bars for wide content but not as much.
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post #9423 of 17890 Old 04-11-2019, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by edub90 View Post
Anyone else having an issue getting their free bulb? Sent it in about 7 weeks ago and they’re currently telling me it’s on backorder.
I'm not in a rush to get it, so not that concerned. I just want to know if they got my form or not. Who did you contact?
Yea same with me lol. I called JVC corporate and then they transferred me over to somebody who told me that.
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post #9424 of 17890 Old 04-11-2019, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by bwillcox View Post
Guess I'll just stick with my 16:9 setup and not worry about the letter boxing with wide screen presentations. I'm really not enough of a movie buff to invest in an anamorphic lens, or fussing with changing things for different movies.
The JVC has an internal masking system, so you don't see the black bars if you don't want to. Just adjust the masking to your screen and activate when watching a movie with switching aspect ratios....with a scope screen that is.

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post #9425 of 17890 Old 04-11-2019, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Gates View Post
The JVC has an internal masking system, so you don't see the black bars if you don't want to. Just adjust the masking to your screen and activate when watching a movie with switching aspect ratios....with a scope screen that is.
I assume it's a digital mask. They aren't physically blocking light from leaving the lens, correct? I looked at the manual but it did not clarify.
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post #9426 of 17890 Old 04-11-2019, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by wombats View Post
Beware the 5 stars and 2400 reviews. That just means the common man likes how easy it was to set up the screen with their BenQ HT2050A. My 1.1 white gain Silver Ticket screen certainly was easy to set up and it looks great to my eyes, but I bought it before I knew I was spending more than $1000 on a projector and before 45 yards of black velvet showed up at my doorstep. You and I are in $6k+ MSRP territory now. Who knows what kinds of black magic happens with screen material at this point? I assume Silver Ticket will do just fine but people rave about all of these 2.0+ gain and $2000+ screens, so maybe there is something worth looking into? Somebody suggested getting material samples; I think that's a good idea. I haven't done that yet.

While I wait for my NX7, I'm borrowing a Mitsubishi HC7800D from a friend and am using it with my Silver Ticket 1.1 135" 16:9 screen. It works great, but the projector is not exactly bright (15fL compared to 32fL on the NX5 or NX7). I usually forget how dim it is during movies. I watch 4k movies on it using MadVR down-scaling and tone mapping. It looks beautiful. I've considered swapping out my 1.1 white material for 1.5 material, but I'll wait to see how the NX7 looks first. Maybe after testing the sample materials I'll go for one of these more expensive high-gain screens.

Again I strongly recommend getting the 2.39:1 aspect ratio if your wall is much wider than it is tall. The only reason I went with 16:9 is because my room is more box shaped and the wall is 100"x139.5". My 118" wide screen leaves just enough room for my speakers to be sufficiently far away from the walls.
Silver Ticket looks okay, until you see the image on a good screen and realize that what you are seeing on the Silver Ticket is screen texture.
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post #9427 of 17890 Old 04-11-2019, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by CaptCapitalism View Post
As per below link, it can't be the cable. Cables don't have versions.

"In fact, there are only four cable designations that are legitimate and recognized by the HDMI organization." Good thing I didn't rush to buy HDCP 2.2 certified cable.

High Speed without Ethernet
High Speed with Ethernet
Standard Speed without Ethernet
Standard Speed with Ethernet

https://www.howtogeek.com/309251/do-...for-my-new-tv/
Yes, but a cable rated high speed, even saying it handles 18Gbps, does not mean it will work for you. Often times those cables were tested using a computer, shooting higher voltage than the 5/6 volts that HT gear provides. So while it worked for the computer test gear, it fails when you try to use it with HT equipment. If you need less than 30', then buy a premium certified cable. That is a cable that has been tested with HT equipment. If you need longer than that, then there are options that have been tested and approved by some of the projector manufacturers.
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post #9428 of 17890 Old 04-11-2019, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary Lightfoot View Post
Ignoring IMAX for the moment, I just fit the widest 2.40 screen I can, and whatever the screen height is, I place my seating so my eyes are 2x the screen height back. Only IMAX should be taller.
Gary and I do not always agree on everything, but on this, we do.
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post #9429 of 17890 Old 04-11-2019, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Killroy View Post
If you use an a-lens, you don't even know it switched. If you zoom then you would see the additional image outside of your screen.
Yep, I never noticed it.
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post #9430 of 17890 Old 04-11-2019, 05:01 PM
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Gary and I do not always agree on everything, but on this, we do.
I don't agree
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Who says Cameron is "right" and why do we care about him so much - lol!

I trust Gary Lightfoot more than James Cameron.
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post #9431 of 17890 Old 04-11-2019, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by bwillcox View Post
However, in the case of Aquaman at least, when in the 1.78 mode there was what I thought was worth while information at both the top and bottom of the screen. Given that most of the movie is at 1.78 (only short sequences are 2.35) I really wouldn't want to watch this film at 2.35.
Aquaman frames beautifully to a constant 2.35. Scope is the only option on the 3d version as well.
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post #9432 of 17890 Old 04-11-2019, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by CaptCapitalism View Post
Hi,
As per the attached picture, I get these vertical lines that expand past the zoom & focus when Oppo 203 goes into Screen Saver. Anyone else experiencing?
I turned off screen saver. Did not duplicate with Oppo 103's screen saver.

However, I got the same issue twice:
1) When I turn on NX5 before oppo 203
2) I am considering the kaleidescape, but I am limited to the HDMI input of the Oppo (Because I have Vanity AES -> Trinnov) and I thought I read that the Oppo input does not accept True HD in the input so not believing everything I read I tried the Oppo 103 with bitstream True HD into the 203 and it worked. Yay! Anyway, in this set up when I first clicked the HDMI input on the Oppo remote I got the lines. Did not duplicate going back & forth to the Oppo screens.

Should I email JVC, my dealer? IS there a firmware. Am I the only one experiencing this?
Is it the cable? I have a High end 24awg Super HDMI cable. But it is from 2013. I can simply buy an Amazon Basics 4k certified cable just to see if I can duplicate with the screen saver. (My cable is snaked behind wall and all organized behind my rack it is PITA to switch wire so want to verify first.)

Cannot get rid of the lines unless I reboot the NX5. Tried detaching the HDMI cables, switching inputs, etc.

To me, this feels like an HDMI issue, but I'd expect if you go to HDMI2 then back to HDMI1 that would resolve itself. What if instead of powering the projector yoru power cycle the oppo and/or the receiver. I'd say if you can get this to go away by power cycling other equipment not the projector then it's not the projector.

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post #9433 of 17890 Old 04-11-2019, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by ShadowBoy View Post
This is also posted in the 2019 model projector thread:

I need some help from the brains trust.

I am going on Saturday to Absolute Hifi here in Sydney to demo the JVC N5 and the Epson 5050UB. I don't know what the set-up will be: whether they've been calibrated, will they have 3D available, etc, but what I want advice on is what are some suggestions for discs to demo.

I want suggestions for DVD, Blu-Ray, 4k, and 3D. Discs that test overall picture quality, motion, ghosting(3D), and clarity. I don't know that I will have time or capability to test individual scenes for things like blooming and such, but am just getting a sense of the overall viewing experience of the two projectors.

I am really wanting to get the JVC N7, but am facing that old question of "if the Epson is close to the quality of the JVC, do I buy the cheaper Epson and spend the saved money on an upgrade to Atmos receiver and screen improvement? The N7 is nearly 2 and a half times the cost of the Epson.

Options: 1) get the Epson now, then upgrade to a second or third generation 4K JVC in several years time.

2) get the JVC now and save for the Atmos and screen later.

3) Get a JVC 7900 ( although no stores seem to have these in stock anymore, and despite claims JVC were keeping this line, they don't seem to be making more. The available 7000 models are so expensive I might as well buy an N5.

What do you think? (Either projector should be a major step up from my 14 year old Epson and give me 3D).

Anyway, what discs do you suggest? Don't mention Lucy as I don't have that in any format yet. I have about 2500 movies with about half dvd and the other half mostly blu-ray but with an growing amount of UHD.

Thanks.
I'd go with the RS540/x7900 now and upgrade sound to full atmos, as long as you're talking at least 5.1.4. 5.1.2, 7.1.2 is sort of worthless. There are used RS500 or greater projectors for sale also. Those might be a great way to pick up a more modern eshift JVC for real cheap to get you through 1-2 more years.

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post #9434 of 17890 Old 04-11-2019, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Gates View Post
The JVC has an internal masking system, so you don't see the black bars if you don't want to. Just adjust the masking to your screen and activate when watching a movie with switching aspect ratios....with a scope screen that is.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wombats View Post
I assume it's a digital mask. They aren't physically blocking light from leaving the lens, correct? I looked at the manual but it did not clarify.
The masking is digital. It doesn't actually block out any light. The masks are the same as your black bars. If it was a physical mask, that'd be pretty awesome. We could automate that stuff and everything.

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post #9435 of 17890 Old 04-11-2019, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by wombats View Post
I assume it's a digital mask. They aren't physically blocking light from leaving the lens, correct? I looked at the manual but it did not clarify.
Exactly.

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post #9436 of 17890 Old 04-11-2019, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by wombats View Post
Ok that's fine. Nothing in my philosophy says you can't move your seats forward or backward to increase or decrease the size of the image in your field of view. My front row is at 4' but my middle row is at 10'. If I was optimizing only for the front row I would get a 77" OLED and call it good. I wouldn't even bother with a projector.
That front row is nice and close So where do you mainly sit?
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post #9437 of 17890 Old 04-11-2019, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by bwillcox View Post
All this talk of aspect ratio reminded me of when I watched Aquaman UHD blu-ray last week. Its AR switch between 2.35 and 1.78 often, with 1.78 being the most prevalent. My screen is a 16x9 so it simply switched between letter boxed and full screen. With a 2.35 screen what is the effect of having the movie do this switching?
The effect in my HT is I scream at the nicompoop director who decided that he (or she) had to switch aspect ratios in the middle of the frickin' movie.
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post #9438 of 17890 Old 04-11-2019, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Gates View Post
The JVC has an internal masking system, so you don't see the black bars if you don't want to. Just adjust the masking to your screen and activate when watching a movie with switching aspect ratios....with a scope screen that is.
I'm not following. Don't you have to engage the internal masking system, or switch to a different lens memory which hast the masking engaged, every time the 2.35:1 aspect comes on? And then switch back when the 16:9 IMAX scenes come back?
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post #9439 of 17890 Old 04-11-2019, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by smitty View Post
I'm not following. Don't you have to engage the internal masking system, or switch to a different lens memory which hast the masking engaged, every time the 2.35:1 aspect comes on? And then switch back when the 16:9 IMAX scenes come back?
No, you use the masking if you want to watch the entire film in 2.35:1 and just mask out the content that would appear above and below the screen when the aspect ratio changes. In many (most?) cases this reproduces what was seen in the cinematic release at theaters.
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post #9440 of 17890 Old 04-11-2019, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by mattztt View Post
No, you use the masking if you want to watch the entire film in 2.35:1 and just mask out the content that would appear above and below the screen when the aspect ratio changes. In many (most?) cases this reproduces what was seen in the cinematic release at theaters.
That seems to make sense when, say, the IMAX scenes are only about 10% of the movie, but I read that Aquaman is 90% IMAX. So wouldn't you be missing a lot?

I never go to the theater anymore, so I don't know what they do, but I thought that if you watch it in an IMAX theater, you'll just see the black bars on the 2.35:1 scenes.
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post #9441 of 17890 Old 04-11-2019, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by smitty View Post
That seems to make sense when, say, the IMAX scenes are only about 10% of the movie, but I read that Aquaman is 90% IMAX. So wouldn't you be missing a lot?

I never go to the theater anymore, so I don't know what they do, but I thought that if you watch it in an IMAX theater, you'll just see the black bars on the 2.35:1 scenes.
Aquaman is an annoying exception. As I understand it the cinematic scope release is not the same as the home release masked to 2.35:1 - they actually frame the 2.35:1 content differently from the IMAX content so it's not centered. That's one I would just watch as 16:9 in the center of my scope screen. If that becomes commonplace I may have to consider doing the CIH+IMAX thing at some point but so far it is an outlier.
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post #9442 of 17890 Old 04-11-2019, 07:42 PM
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I've had my NX9 for a few weeks now paired with a new DCR lens from Panamorph and am very happy with the results. Was really worried because of my screen size (160"wide 2.40) and the fact that it is a .85ish gain acoustically transparent. This combo is quite an upgrade brightness wise over my rs500 and the picture is sharp and stunning. I wanted to add this to the thread for people on the fence with very large screens.
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post #9443 of 17890 Old 04-11-2019, 07:52 PM
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I just got my NX7 yesterday after MONTHS of eager anticipation and reading this thread. I'm replacing a Sony 285es. BIG difference.

I have a few questions and hoping you guys can help out.

1. I'm using Auto 2 on iris mode. Just to be clear, that NEVER clamps the iris down all the way right? When scenes in a film fade to black I'm still seeing a ton of ambient light.

2. Did I read something on hear way back that says there's some combinations of settings (it was a bug or something I think?) that dramatically improves the black levels? This was aside from the obvious brightness/contrast/tone map settings.

3. I have VERY bright corners. The lower right corner is very bright and has a somewhat green tint to it. I've read that bright corners are normal but this seems out of the ordinary to me. I realize that's subjective, but does everyone have super hot corners?

Thank you!
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post #9444 of 17890 Old 04-11-2019, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by lastbeat View Post
I just got my NX7 yesterday after MONTHS of eager anticipation and reading this thread. I'm replacing a Sony 285es. BIG difference.

I have a few questions and hoping you guys can help out.

1. I'm using Auto 2 on iris mode. Just to be clear, that NEVER clamps the iris down all the way right? When scenes in a film fade to black I'm still seeing a ton of ambient light.

2. Did I read something on hear way back that says there's some combinations of settings (it was a bug or something I think?) that dramatically improves the black levels? This was aside from the obvious brightness/contrast/tone map settings.

3. I have VERY bright corners. The lower right corner is very bright and has a somewhat green tint to it. I've read that bright corners are normal but this seems out of the ordinary to me. I realize that's subjective, but does everyone have super hot corners?

Thank you!
Yea, try turning your brightness slider down to like -3 and test again if the iris behaves better. At least try SDR not HDR for that. HDR tone mapping seems to raise the black floor a lot and probably needs some other stuff done.

I can't speak on the bright corners, but the iris working properly would probably help a ton. So I'd address that issue first and see where you're at.

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post #9445 of 17890 Old 04-11-2019, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by dsm1212 View Post
The mount I have now is pretty old and I doubt it is rated for 44 lbs so I'm taking it down. I know people love chief but I found a crimsonav jr3xl locally and picked that up. Its rated at 70lbs. Appears more solid than it looks with spider legs. I chose it because it was handy, less money and allows for direct joist mount. But maybe if I switch to a board, I will switch to the chief model. Funny that one says only 50lbs though.



For a board between the joists I would cut a 3/4" plywood square about the size of the projector (with a finished side). Stain or paint it, bolt the mount to the board. This will leave some nuts sticking through the back side that will press into the ceiling. Rather than allow a gap, I'd probably make marks and then just drill them out. Then mount this panel between two joists with some lags. I'd probably cut some trim for around the board or wood glue on a 3/4" finished edge if I can find one. Alternative if I can find a wide piece of hardwood that would probably work too. We have a woodery near my home that might have a scrap piece of 12-18" wide hardwood.



I don't know what to think about gray screens. One dealer I was at couldn't stop talking about how much better the gray screens made the picture quality. The one I have now is white and 1.1 gain. I have seen some 1.3 gain grays but not at a reasonable price. I'm thinking of just going with one of the chinese directs from amazon or ebay. I don't mind paying for something if it seems worth it, but brand name screens seem way way overpriced to me for what you get. I have little doubt they are all made in the same half dozen cities in china.



Thanks to SirMaster and jeahrens for the other feedback.


Look into the Chief CMS390 or CMS391. I think that might solve all your problems. Holds 500lbs and spans joists.
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post #9446 of 17890 Old 04-11-2019, 09:08 PM
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Yea, try turning your brightness slider down to like -3 and test again if the iris behaves better.
Is there an easy way to tell if the iris is working properly? I rarely hear mine. I've heard it on one or two occasions on startup. Not that I'm complaining about a quiet iris, but I just want to make sure it is moving.
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post #9447 of 17890 Old 04-11-2019, 09:24 PM
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That front row is nice and close So where do you mainly sit?
So a long long time ago I would to go to movie theaters and sit at the furthest back row so I could see everything easily and not have people making noise or munching popcorn behind me. Then I met my wife, and when I took her to the theater and sat in the back row she said "I can't see anything". After that we started sitting much further forward. I'm not sure how, but I got used to it.

When I first was putting my room together, I had a 65" LCD screen mounted on the wall. My friend said "You need a big projector that fills the wall!" But I replied "Who the hell would sit in the front row with a big 100" or 120" screen?" "ME!" he replied. "If you get a big projector screen I'll be sitting right there!" my friend said as he pointed violently at the middle front row seat.

The rest is history. I calculated that I could accommodate up to a 150" 16:9 screen but went with 135" because shadows would start to be a problem for the front row at 4-5' and because I wanted to give the front speakers more breathing room. My friend sat in the front row at 3' when I crammed 10 people and 5 LAN computers into the room for the DOTA International. No complaints. All smiles. The other day my wife and I watched Bohemian Rhapsody in the front row at about 5' and we loved it.

If we have more than 7 people in the room for a movie and nobody is willing to cuddle up together to make extra space, then we have to either put someone in my drafting chair at the back of the room or scoot all the seating back as far as it will go (everything is on felt pads) and have people sit IN FRONT OF THE FRONT ROW on bean bags or pillows. I've sat there before. It wasn't all that bad. If we're watching some trash movie that I don't care about, then I let everybody else pick their seats and then I take whatever is left over.

I have a set of HT recliner sectionals with built-in risers coming soon to replace my 2nd row couch. When that happens, if we're watching a movie I love like Cool Hand Luke or Lawrence of Arabia, I'm absolutely sitting 2nd row center in the recliner position with a cold one in the cupholder. My friends will have to trick me into watching more trashy movies if they want my prime seat.
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post #9448 of 17890 Old 04-11-2019, 10:04 PM
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Is there an easy way to tell if the iris is working properly? I rarely hear mine. I've heard it on one or two occasions on startup. Not that I'm complaining about a quiet iris, but I just want to make sure it is moving.
The lens iris should be pretty much silent so you should never hear it. If you got your projector and just set it at defaults or "auto" then you'll never hear the iris.

You can test the iris with the following:
1) bring up a very bright image maybe all white
2) Go to the picture mode screen and where you see the iris settings like auto1 or auto2. Set it to 'manual'. Move the iris slider from 0 to -15 and each step should slightly dim the screen. You may hear noise every other stepping.

When done, return the iris to 0 and set to auto again.
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post #9449 of 17890 Old 04-11-2019, 11:59 PM
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I just got my NX7 yesterday after MONTHS of eager anticipation and reading this thread. I'm replacing a Sony 285es. BIG difference.

I have a few questions and hoping you guys can help out.

1. I'm using Auto 2 on iris mode. Just to be clear, that NEVER clamps the iris down all the way right? When scenes in a film fade to black I'm still seeing a ton of ambient light.

2. Did I read something on hear way back that says there's some combinations of settings (it was a bug or something I think?) that dramatically improves the black levels? This was aside from the obvious brightness/contrast/tone map settings.

3. I have VERY bright corners. The lower right corner is very bright and has a somewhat green tint to it. I've read that bright corners are normal but this seems out of the ordinary to me. I realize that's subjective, but does everyone have super hot corners?

Thank you!
My RS2000 arrived today!
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post #9450 of 17890 Old 04-12-2019, 12:02 AM
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My RS2000 arrived today!
So how is it? It better be all hooked up and you should be typing on it now

Video: JVC RS4500 135" screen in pure black room no light, htpc nvidia 1080ti.
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