Official JVC RS3000/NX9 - JVC RS2000/NX7/N7 - JVC RS1000/NX5/N5 - Owners Thread - Page 316 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #9451 of 15217 Old 04-11-2019, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by mattztt View Post
No, you use the masking if you want to watch the entire film in 2.35:1 and just mask out the content that would appear above and below the screen when the aspect ratio changes. In many (most?) cases this reproduces what was seen in the cinematic release at theaters.
That seems to make sense when, say, the IMAX scenes are only about 10% of the movie, but I read that Aquaman is 90% IMAX. So wouldn't you be missing a lot?

I never go to the theater anymore, so I don't know what they do, but I thought that if you watch it in an IMAX theater, you'll just see the black bars on the 2.35:1 scenes.
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post #9452 of 15217 Old 04-11-2019, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by smitty View Post
That seems to make sense when, say, the IMAX scenes are only about 10% of the movie, but I read that Aquaman is 90% IMAX. So wouldn't you be missing a lot?

I never go to the theater anymore, so I don't know what they do, but I thought that if you watch it in an IMAX theater, you'll just see the black bars on the 2.35:1 scenes.
Aquaman is an annoying exception. As I understand it the cinematic scope release is not the same as the home release masked to 2.35:1 - they actually frame the 2.35:1 content differently from the IMAX content so it's not centered. That's one I would just watch as 16:9 in the center of my scope screen. If that becomes commonplace I may have to consider doing the CIH+IMAX thing at some point but so far it is an outlier.
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post #9453 of 15217 Old 04-11-2019, 07:42 PM
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I've had my NX9 for a few weeks now paired with a new DCR lens from Panamorph and am very happy with the results. Was really worried because of my screen size (160"wide 2.40) and the fact that it is a .85ish gain acoustically transparent. This combo is quite an upgrade brightness wise over my rs500 and the picture is sharp and stunning. I wanted to add this to the thread for people on the fence with very large screens.
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post #9454 of 15217 Old 04-11-2019, 07:52 PM
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I just got my NX7 yesterday after MONTHS of eager anticipation and reading this thread. I'm replacing a Sony 285es. BIG difference.

I have a few questions and hoping you guys can help out.

1. I'm using Auto 2 on iris mode. Just to be clear, that NEVER clamps the iris down all the way right? When scenes in a film fade to black I'm still seeing a ton of ambient light.

2. Did I read something on hear way back that says there's some combinations of settings (it was a bug or something I think?) that dramatically improves the black levels? This was aside from the obvious brightness/contrast/tone map settings.

3. I have VERY bright corners. The lower right corner is very bright and has a somewhat green tint to it. I've read that bright corners are normal but this seems out of the ordinary to me. I realize that's subjective, but does everyone have super hot corners?

Thank you!
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post #9455 of 15217 Old 04-11-2019, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by lastbeat View Post
I just got my NX7 yesterday after MONTHS of eager anticipation and reading this thread. I'm replacing a Sony 285es. BIG difference.

I have a few questions and hoping you guys can help out.

1. I'm using Auto 2 on iris mode. Just to be clear, that NEVER clamps the iris down all the way right? When scenes in a film fade to black I'm still seeing a ton of ambient light.

2. Did I read something on hear way back that says there's some combinations of settings (it was a bug or something I think?) that dramatically improves the black levels? This was aside from the obvious brightness/contrast/tone map settings.

3. I have VERY bright corners. The lower right corner is very bright and has a somewhat green tint to it. I've read that bright corners are normal but this seems out of the ordinary to me. I realize that's subjective, but does everyone have super hot corners?

Thank you!
Yea, try turning your brightness slider down to like -3 and test again if the iris behaves better. At least try SDR not HDR for that. HDR tone mapping seems to raise the black floor a lot and probably needs some other stuff done.

I can't speak on the bright corners, but the iris working properly would probably help a ton. So I'd address that issue first and see where you're at.

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post #9456 of 15217 Old 04-11-2019, 08:42 PM
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The mount I have now is pretty old and I doubt it is rated for 44 lbs so I'm taking it down. I know people love chief but I found a crimsonav jr3xl locally and picked that up. Its rated at 70lbs. Appears more solid than it looks with spider legs. I chose it because it was handy, less money and allows for direct joist mount. But maybe if I switch to a board, I will switch to the chief model. Funny that one says only 50lbs though.



For a board between the joists I would cut a 3/4" plywood square about the size of the projector (with a finished side). Stain or paint it, bolt the mount to the board. This will leave some nuts sticking through the back side that will press into the ceiling. Rather than allow a gap, I'd probably make marks and then just drill them out. Then mount this panel between two joists with some lags. I'd probably cut some trim for around the board or wood glue on a 3/4" finished edge if I can find one. Alternative if I can find a wide piece of hardwood that would probably work too. We have a woodery near my home that might have a scrap piece of 12-18" wide hardwood.



I don't know what to think about gray screens. One dealer I was at couldn't stop talking about how much better the gray screens made the picture quality. The one I have now is white and 1.1 gain. I have seen some 1.3 gain grays but not at a reasonable price. I'm thinking of just going with one of the chinese directs from amazon or ebay. I don't mind paying for something if it seems worth it, but brand name screens seem way way overpriced to me for what you get. I have little doubt they are all made in the same half dozen cities in china.



Thanks to SirMaster and jeahrens for the other feedback.


Look into the Chief CMS390 or CMS391. I think that might solve all your problems. Holds 500lbs and spans joists.
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post #9457 of 15217 Old 04-11-2019, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
Yea, try turning your brightness slider down to like -3 and test again if the iris behaves better.
Is there an easy way to tell if the iris is working properly? I rarely hear mine. I've heard it on one or two occasions on startup. Not that I'm complaining about a quiet iris, but I just want to make sure it is moving.
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post #9458 of 15217 Old 04-11-2019, 09:24 PM
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That front row is nice and close So where do you mainly sit?
So a long long time ago I would to go to movie theaters and sit at the furthest back row so I could see everything easily and not have people making noise or munching popcorn behind me. Then I met my wife, and when I took her to the theater and sat in the back row she said "I can't see anything". After that we started sitting much further forward. I'm not sure how, but I got used to it.

When I first was putting my room together, I had a 65" LCD screen mounted on the wall. My friend said "You need a big projector that fills the wall!" But I replied "Who the hell would sit in the front row with a big 100" or 120" screen?" "ME!" he replied. "If you get a big projector screen I'll be sitting right there!" my friend said as he pointed violently at the middle front row seat.

The rest is history. I calculated that I could accommodate up to a 150" 16:9 screen but went with 135" because shadows would start to be a problem for the front row at 4-5' and because I wanted to give the front speakers more breathing room. My friend sat in the front row at 3' when I crammed 10 people and 5 LAN computers into the room for the DOTA International. No complaints. All smiles. The other day my wife and I watched Bohemian Rhapsody in the front row at about 5' and we loved it.

If we have more than 7 people in the room for a movie and nobody is willing to cuddle up together to make extra space, then we have to either put someone in my drafting chair at the back of the room or scoot all the seating back as far as it will go (everything is on felt pads) and have people sit IN FRONT OF THE FRONT ROW on bean bags or pillows. I've sat there before. It wasn't all that bad. If we're watching some trash movie that I don't care about, then I let everybody else pick their seats and then I take whatever is left over.

I have a set of HT recliner sectionals with built-in risers coming soon to replace my 2nd row couch. When that happens, if we're watching a movie I love like Cool Hand Luke or Lawrence of Arabia, I'm absolutely sitting 2nd row center in the recliner position with a cold one in the cupholder. My friends will have to trick me into watching more trashy movies if they want my prime seat.
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Last edited by wombats; 04-11-2019 at 09:28 PM.
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post #9459 of 15217 Old 04-11-2019, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by smitty View Post
Is there an easy way to tell if the iris is working properly? I rarely hear mine. I've heard it on one or two occasions on startup. Not that I'm complaining about a quiet iris, but I just want to make sure it is moving.
The lens iris should be pretty much silent so you should never hear it. If you got your projector and just set it at defaults or "auto" then you'll never hear the iris.

You can test the iris with the following:
1) bring up a very bright image maybe all white
2) Go to the picture mode screen and where you see the iris settings like auto1 or auto2. Set it to 'manual'. Move the iris slider from 0 to -15 and each step should slightly dim the screen. You may hear noise every other stepping.

When done, return the iris to 0 and set to auto again.
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post #9460 of 15217 Old 04-11-2019, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by lastbeat View Post
I just got my NX7 yesterday after MONTHS of eager anticipation and reading this thread. I'm replacing a Sony 285es. BIG difference.

I have a few questions and hoping you guys can help out.

1. I'm using Auto 2 on iris mode. Just to be clear, that NEVER clamps the iris down all the way right? When scenes in a film fade to black I'm still seeing a ton of ambient light.

2. Did I read something on hear way back that says there's some combinations of settings (it was a bug or something I think?) that dramatically improves the black levels? This was aside from the obvious brightness/contrast/tone map settings.

3. I have VERY bright corners. The lower right corner is very bright and has a somewhat green tint to it. I've read that bright corners are normal but this seems out of the ordinary to me. I realize that's subjective, but does everyone have super hot corners?

Thank you!
My RS2000 arrived today!
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Sports Room - JVC RS4810, Dalite 106" 16:9, Onkyo TX-SR875, Oppo BDP-103, Energy C-7(2) w/Energy S8.2(2), Energy C-C3(1) w/Energy S10.2(1), Energy CR-3(3), Energy S12.3
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post #9461 of 15217 Old 04-12-2019, 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Jim Cutter View Post
My RS2000 arrived today!
So how is it? It better be all hooked up and you should be typing on it now

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post #9462 of 15217 Old 04-12-2019, 12:17 AM
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So my RS2000 arrived today. Mike let me know it was double boxed and I'm glad he did. The outer box was a little beat up. I wish that it was marked with some stickers that noted it was fragile and which side was up. The outer box had air bags inserted between the box to help so I hope that it did. The inner box looks perfect so hopefully I'll have time to get it up and running this weekend. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that I don't have a busy weekend on call!








And here she is in all her beautiful boxed glory. She's finally home!!!


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Sports Room - JVC RS4810, Dalite 106" 16:9, Onkyo TX-SR875, Oppo BDP-103, Energy C-7(2) w/Energy S8.2(2), Energy C-C3(1) w/Energy S10.2(1), Energy CR-3(3), Energy S12.3
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post #9463 of 15217 Old 04-12-2019, 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
So how is it? It better be all hooked up and you should be typing on it now
I got home very late tonight. I'll tackle it when I get a chance around work. I'm on call this weekend so I'm sure I'll be super busy knowing that I want to set it up!

Theater Room - JVC RS2000, Dalite 148" Scope, Pioneer SC-65, Panasonic UB820, Energy APS 5+2(2), Energy AC 300(1), Energy CR-3(4), PSA 15"Sub(2)
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post #9464 of 15217 Old 04-12-2019, 12:36 AM
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So my RS2000 arrived today. Mike let me know it was double boxed and I'm glad he did. The outer box was a little beat up. I wish that it was marked with some stickers that noted it was fragile and which side was up
Yea this wouldnt matter. I had a friend that was a UPS truck loader in Tualatin and they said the heavier the box, it becomes a game to see who can throw it over a wall of boxes on the truck. They ignore fragile and this side up entirely on purpose. I'm sure this isn't UPS policy but the workers don't give a F.

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post #9465 of 15217 Old 04-12-2019, 02:17 AM
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I got home very late tonight. I'll tackle it when I get a chance around work. I'm on call this weekend so I'm sure I'll be super busy knowing that I want to set it up!
Wow - if that was a brand new box when Mike sent it to you, it's certainly taken a hell of a beating. I hope the impact of those knocks to the outer box hasn't damaged the projector within.
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post #9466 of 15217 Old 04-12-2019, 02:59 AM
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I've had my NX9 for a few weeks now paired with a new DCR lens from Panamorph and am very happy with the results. Was really worried because of my screen size (160"wide 2.40) and the fact that it is a .85ish gain acoustically transparent. This combo is quite an upgrade brightness wise over my rs500 and the picture is sharp and stunning. I wanted to add this to the thread for people on the fence with very large screens.
Appreciate the report. I have a 147" wide 2.40 screen, Gain a nominal 1.3, so this is reassuring.

How are you handling 16:9 content, as well as 3D either 2.40:1 or 16:9, since the JVC doesn't have the proper Anamorphic modes for that content?

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post #9467 of 15217 Old 04-12-2019, 03:16 AM
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Appreciate the report. I have a 147" wide 2.40 screen, Gain a nominal 1.3, so this is reassuring.

How are you handling 16:9 content, as well as 3D either 2.40:1 or 16:9, since the JVC doesn't have the proper Anamorphic modes for that content?
I will be removing the lens for 16x9 material. Pretty easy to remove and can be done in less than a minute. To me, and I think anyone else, trying to watch 16x9 in anamorphic b mode is just too noticeable and distracting. Maybe jvc will add a correct mode or one day I’ll add a lumagen or madvr.

As for 3D, I don’t plan on watching any but if I change my mind I would remove the lens for that as well.
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post #9468 of 15217 Old 04-12-2019, 03:21 AM
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I will be removing the lens for 16x9 material. Pretty easy to remove and can be done in less than a minute. To me, and I think anyone else, trying to watch 16x9 in anamorphic b mode is just too noticeable and distracting. Maybe jvc will add a correct mode or one day I’ll add a lumagen or madvr.

As for 3D, I don’t plan on watching any but if I change my mind I would remove the lens for that as well.
Thanks. I would not be happy with the squeeze either, so agree that removing the lens would be perhaps the best option, at least for me. But, again for me, having to do this is enough of a hassle and limitation (including having to go back to zooming the lens, which the A-lens would otherwise eliminate), that I'll wait to buy until this has been fixed by JVC. I've debated this for months, and this is how I've resolved it for my purposes. But I fully understand how removing it is a perfectly acceptable option for others.

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post #9469 of 15217 Old 04-12-2019, 04:26 AM
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Look into the Chief CMS390 or CMS391. I think that might solve all your problems. Holds 500lbs and spans joists.
Nice! I will pick one up. Can I just use a 1.5" nipple so there is no real drop tube? I don't see why not.

Sent from my SM-T713 using Tapatalk
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post #9470 of 15217 Old 04-12-2019, 04:43 AM
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Nice! I will pick one up. Can I just use a 1.5" nipple so there is no real drop tube? I don't see why not.

Sent from my SM-T713 using Tapatalk


I don’t see why not. That’s what I’m doing.

I just went to Lowe’s/Home Depot and got a bunch of sizes, and looked at which worked the best. I think I ended up with a 3 inch. They’re steel, so make sure you use something on the threads so it doesn’t seize. Grab some anti-seize from AutoZone. They have little packets at the register for a few bucks.

I’m using the 24 inch version of the Chief spanner, but using it front to back so I can adjust the throw distance over time.

You might not even need to use a board/piece of wood with that spanner.

I ended up using a 2x12, and then mounted the spanner to that since it was on soffit.

If I had more space on the side of the joists I could have not used the 2x12.
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post #9471 of 15217 Old 04-12-2019, 05:55 AM
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Thanks. I would not be happy with the squeeze either, so agree that removing the lens would be perhaps the best option, at least for me. But, again for me, having to do this is enough of a hassle and limitation (including having to go back to zooming the lens, which the A-lens would otherwise eliminate), that I'll wait to buy until this has been fixed by JVC. I've debated this for months, and this is how I've resolved it for my purposes. But I fully understand how removing it is a perfectly acceptable option for others.
Couldn't all this be automated? Isn't there some sort of lens slide out? I don't keep up on this stuff. I assume HTPC or Lumagen users don't have to worry about this right?

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post #9472 of 15217 Old 04-12-2019, 06:07 AM
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Originally Posted by wombats View Post
So a long long time ago I would to go to movie theaters and sit at the furthest back row so I could see everything easily and not have people making noise or munching popcorn behind me. Then I met my wife, and when I took her to the theater and sat in the back row she said "I can't see anything". After that we started sitting much further forward. I'm not sure how, but I got used to it.

When I first was putting my room together, I had a 65" LCD screen mounted on the wall. My friend said "You need a big projector that fills the wall!" But I replied "Who the hell would sit in the front row with a big 100" or 120" screen?" "ME!" he replied. "If you get a big projector screen I'll be sitting right there!" my friend said as he pointed violently at the middle front row seat.

The rest is history. I calculated that I could accommodate up to a 150" 16:9 screen but went with 135" because shadows would start to be a problem for the front row at 4-5' and because I wanted to give the front speakers more breathing room. My friend sat in the front row at 3' when I crammed 10 people and 5 LAN computers into the room for the DOTA International. No complaints. All smiles. The other day my wife and I watched Bohemian Rhapsody in the front row at about 5' and we loved it.

If we have more than 7 people in the room for a movie and nobody is willing to cuddle up together to make extra space, then we have to either put someone in my drafting chair at the back of the room or scoot all the seating back as far as it will go (everything is on felt pads) and have people sit IN FRONT OF THE FRONT ROW on bean bags or pillows. I've sat there before. It wasn't all that bad. If we're watching some trash movie that I don't care about, then I let everybody else pick their seats and then I take whatever is left over.

I have a set of HT recliner sectionals with built-in risers coming soon to replace my 2nd row couch. When that happens, if we're watching a movie I love like Cool Hand Luke or Lawrence of Arabia, I'm absolutely sitting 2nd row center in the recliner position with a cold one in the cupholder. My friends will have to trick me into watching more trashy movies if they want my prime seat.
Great story on how you got into projectors. It is amazing what women can convince you to do
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post #9473 of 15217 Old 04-12-2019, 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by CaptCapitalism View Post
Hi,
As per the attached picture, I get these vertical lines that expand past the zoom & focus when Oppo 203 goes into Screen Saver. Anyone else experiencing?

.....

Should I email JVC, my dealer? IS there a firmware. Am I the only one experiencing this?
Is it the cable? I have a High end 24awg Super HDMI cable. But it is from 2013. I can simply buy an Amazon Basics 4k certified cable just to see if I can duplicate with the screen saver. (My cable is snaked behind wall and all organized behind my rack it is PITA to switch wire so want to verify first.)

Cannot get rid of the lines unless I reboot the NX5. Tried detaching the HDMI cables, switching inputs, etc.

You're not the only one with this general problem (vertical lines). I know of 4 reports that I've seen on this forum plus my own.

It has nothing to do with the Oppo or the cables and occurs with the v2.01 firmware (at least). It is infrequent and seems to be a function of the video. Apparently, the video that is produced when the Oppo goes into Screen Saver is one of those that causes it. Based on my experience, many people might never see it (and you may never see it otherwise).

I never had it with the original 1.17 firmware (which doesn't say too much, since it is infrequent). It started for me with 1.20.

Since it's only a nuisance for me, I've been putting up with it, waiting for the next firmware release. At that point, if it isn't fixed, I will be contacting my dealer.
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post #9474 of 15217 Old 04-12-2019, 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
Couldn't all this be automated? Isn't there some sort of lens slide out? I don't keep up on this stuff. I assume HTPC or Lumagen users don't have to worry about this right?
Yes, you are correct.
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post #9475 of 15217 Old 04-12-2019, 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by jmonier View Post
You're not the only one with this general problem (vertical lines). I know of 4 reports that I've seen on this forum plus my own.

It has nothing to do with the Oppo or the cables and occurs with the v2.01 firmware (at least). It is infrequent and seems to be a function of the video. Apparently, the video that is produced when the Oppo goes into Screen Saver is one of those that causes it. Based on my experience, many people might never see it (and you may never see it otherwise).

I never had it with the original 1.17 firmware (which doesn't say too much, since it is infrequent). It started for me with 1.20.

Since it's only a nuisance for me, I've been putting up with it, waiting for the next firmware release. At that point, if it isn't fixed, I will be contacting my dealer.
Is this readily reproducible with Oppo and the screen saver mode? Or is it still difficult to reproduce? Because if it's readily reproducible, it should be reported to JVC to fix with reproduction steps.

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post #9476 of 15217 Old 04-12-2019, 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
Couldn't all this be automated? Isn't there some sort of lens slide out? I don't keep up on this stuff. I assume HTPC or Lumagen users don't have to worry about this right?
You could use a lens slide, but if you move the lens out of the way you need to then adjust the lens shift, zoom, focus again. Which leaving the lens in place eliminates.

The other option for those with the NX projector is to use the “regular” Paladin lens. (not DCR) You will not have the 6% squeeze issue the DCR lens has on 16:9 content. With that it’s a quick flip of a button on the JVC to switch between 16:9 and 2.40. No sled, no shift/zoom/focus, no 6% squeeze.

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post #9477 of 15217 Old 04-12-2019, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by smitty View Post
I had a similar experience with a local dealer. He kept pushing the Sony 695 and took me to the back of his shop to show me some JVC's some people has supposedly returned. The 695 he had set up in his store did not look good at all (which suggests that perhaps he didn't know what he was doing or didn't care about proper setup). Looking back on the experience, I am so glad I didn't give his advice much credence and instead went with the RS2000, as the unit I have throws an awesome picture.

That kind of puts me in a spot. The next closest dealer is over 100 miles away. I guess I could call them and see what they would do. Thanks for the feedback smitty. Since I am still looking at upwards of $14k to spend. This might sway them..
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post #9478 of 15217 Old 04-12-2019, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
Is this readily reproducible with Oppo and the screen saver mode? Or is it still difficult to reproduce? Because if it's readily reproducible, it should be reported to JVC to fix with reproduction steps.
Apparently it is reproducible for the OP, but in the cases where I've seen it it's just a single instance in the video, and once that's past it doesn't occur again.. If I get time, I may try it with my Oppo, but in general I could not come up with specific steps to reproduce it. That's why I've been waiting for the next firmware release before I put a lot of time into it.
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post #9479 of 15217 Old 04-12-2019, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by RaceCarDriver View Post
You could use a lens slide, but if you move the lens out of the way you need to then adjust the lens shift, zoom, focus again. Which leaving the lens in place eliminates.

The other option for those with the NX projector is to use the “regular” Paladin lens. (not DCR) You will get not have the 6% squeeze issue the DCR lens has on 16:9 content. With that it’s a quick flip of a button on the JVC to switch between 16:9 and 2.40. No sled, no shift/zoom/focus, no 6% squeeze.
Oh thanks. I just read up on that. I think the "regular" lens would be good. You only lose maybe 100 lumens (not noticeable) on the 17:9 vs 16:9 and benefit a bit by not having horizontal scaling in the image and it would solve all those problems right? And save $2k to boot

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post #9480 of 15217 Old 04-12-2019, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by wombats View Post
Not true if you're already horizontally constrained anyway. In your previous example, the room accommodated a 96" wide screen no matter what the aspect ratio. 2.39:1 content is the same width and height on a 96" wide 16:9 screen as it would be on a 96" wide 2.39:1 screen.
No because you are changing the perceived image size based on your distance from it. Setting your immersion based on the height of the 1.78:1 screen means wider films will be much less immersive than intended, as they fill less and less of the frame the wider you get.

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In a vertically constrained room, the inverse is true. The 16:9 content is the same size on a 54" tall 16:9 screen as it is on a 54" tall 2.39:1 screen.
The vertical constraint, in most cases, only exists if you are fixated on how much surface area you can cover.

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Originally Posted by wombats View Post
If you care about screen size, the approach absolutely starts with the question "which AR covers the most surface area on my wall?". Then you narrow down your options based on brightness and other constraints we've spoken about earlier. If screen size was not the primary reason to get a projector, I would have bought a 77" OLED over a year ago (or kept my 65" LCD) and would never have even come to this forum.
I care about screen size to the extent I will size it appropriately to the desired AR and seating distance (and other factors like brightness). Your situation doesn't really fit the norm as most people aren't going to be comfortable with nearly that level of immersion. And that's totally fine. Our rooms are our space to make what we want of them. The most important thing is that you are happy with what you have.

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