Originally Posted by dkersten
Got my RS2000 yesterday and got it set up. No shipping issues, outer box was a little squished but nothing unusual, inner box had one small ding on an edge that didn't go further than an inch into the box, and styrofoam was in perfect shape.
On initial inspection, the lens first appeared to have a big chip in it, but after looking closer it appears to be some adhesive, probably from the tape that holds the lens cap on. My working theory here is that when JVC USA QC'd it, they pulled the lens cap off and left one piece of tape hanging off the lens, and then when the lens was hot the tape managed to float up and touch the lens, and when pulled away a residue was left. I already talked to Mike about it and he sent me cleaning instructions, which I was able to use for a bit of the adhesive in the way of the light path, the rest is out of the light path so I will tackle that at a later date. It's messy to try to get it off as it streaks really easily.
The second thing I noticed that made me less than happy was as I moved the projector, or just bumped it or wiggled the shelf it is on, something is rattling inside the projector. Not like it is loose and bouncing around inside, just like a ribbon cable or something is floating next to the chassis and when I tap the case or bump the shelf, it rattles for a second. I honestly haven't heard that from my seating positions, and I will hear even less once I get the box fully enclosed, but it was a little discouraging. If stuff is that loose inside, it's no wonder there is so many freight issues. I took a video of it but unless someone really wants to hear it, I'm not going to post it. It doesn't seem to affect anything. I do have over 20kw of power, so I was concerned that whatever is rattling will be going nuts on heavy bass scenes, and if it becomes a bigger problem I will deal with it.
Convergence was decent, red and blue off by one pixel, and after correction red is still off a bit on the left, and the blue just a bit on the far right, but overall pretty clean. Not enough to warrant zone convergence, and of course not enough to see any issues in the image.
Initial setup was fairly easy, my install is on a shelf mount, and squaring it up was not terribly difficult. I have a rather large screen (150" wide 2.39:1), and based on the grid pattern, the middle of the screen frame appears to be sagging by a millimeter or two, so if I line up the bottom line with the edge of the screen, it drops off the screen on the corners, and the opposite at the top. I am sure it is sag in the screen, as I don't think it's possible for the image to be arched, lol..
I first got it set up for regular 16:9 since that is easiest (just align top and bottom and square it all up). And then I tested a few various sources real quick. Initial impression was good, with the lower black floor immediately noticeable compared to my Epson. Noticeable but not revolutionary, but I think that is always the case once you get to this level, I never expected more than incremental changes, and I don't feel like I got anything more. Yes, image is sharper, focus is better, color is better right out of the box, contrast in darker scenes is noticeably better, and of course, having 18gbps is an immense relief. I set the Shield at 4k 422 12 bit 60p and now I just forget it. Every source switches automatically to the desired color depth, frame rate, and chroma subsampling rate. PSVue was always a pain because it is at 10 bit color, 60hz, so on a 10gbps HDMI, I had to constantly switch between 1080p 60p 10bit and then back to 4k 10bit 30p for 4k content.
Then I got the image zoomed in for scope, and hit my first "wtf?" Using the zoom/shift grid, I zoomed it out to fit, but I hit the limits of the lens about a half inch short of getting the lines at the edges of my screen. I remeasured and my lens to screen is 17'8" or 212". My screen width is 150". That's 1.4133, and the projector should do lower than 1.4 (I think 1.36 or 1.38 is the min throw). But then I realized that the lines must be set up for 2.35:1, and I have a 2.39:1 screen. I had mine custom cut since most movies these days are 2.39:1 but screens are usually 2.35:1. That is a difference of over an inch in height at my width. So instead of zooming and shifting with the grid, I put a scope movie on and sure enough, I was throwing over the edges of the screen by 2+ inches all the way around. So I was zooming just a little too much despite the grid being inside the frame. Mystery solved.
Before throwing the projector up on the shelf (no easy task since my shoulders both have issues, lol) I mounted the big steel plate on the bottom for the Paladin DCR lens. I used the recommended holes for JVC and the longer screws (4mmx25mm) just barely fit, despite the instructions saying to use the 18mm length screws. Once the zoom was set for scope, and it was all converged and ready to go, I popped the lens on to see where we were at. And 4" on each side was occluded by the lens frame! Again, the rating is 1.4 min for the paladin DCR, so WTF was going on??
Well, after some tinkering, I realized that the bracket was too high and too far forward and the back of the Paladin was quite a ways away from the JVC lens. So I pulled the projector forward and tried to lower it with some spacers. Unfortunately, that meant getting longer screws, so I hit the hardware store for some 4mmx30mm screws. Then I used the next set of holes closer to the front, which are labeled for use with Epson in the Panamorph instructions, but made the bracket sit back almost 1/2" further. So with the bracket lower and further back, I next changed up the bracket mount to slide under the bracket instead of over it. The thumb screws would be hidden by the lens once mounted, but I am not taking it off for 16:9, so no big deal.
Then I scooted the projector back about 6 inches to get a little narrower beam of light as an added precaution. This meant going through and realigning everything, but once it was done I was able to get the lens lined up nicely, and it is just barely on the edge of some occlusion in one corner, which would be avoidable if the mount could be lower and slightly back from where it is now. But it worked, so I am satisfied. I overzoomed by a couple more clicks to hide the barrel effect from the lens, which was minimal (maybe a quarter inch at the corners compared to the middle, over a 150" width).
Once that was all done, I settled in to get it dialed in and tested.
At first, HDR was NOT cooperating very well. It was washed out and looked horrible, or far too dark to be watchable. This was discouraging but I remembered some others reporting the same thing, so I dug in and tried to find the posts here. Unfortunately, this thread is over 300 pages and even with searching, I just couldn't find what I was looking for. I did some searching on the "other forums" and found some helpful advice, and then sat back down (it was after 10pm now, lol) and figured it out.
I ended up changing the gamma mode to HDR(PQ) and then found where I could turn on the tone mapping. At first when I turned on that gamma mode it was horribly dark, and completely unwatchable. But once I found that switch for tone mapping, it was suddenly as bright as if I set it to gamma 2.4 but with the contrast and color I expected (not washed out). I don't know why this isn't on by default, and why it is so hard to find (not even grayed out if not in the right mode). Now that it looked more like I was expecting, I fired up a couple HDR movies with metadata and settled on I think +3 for tone mapping, and like +1 for light and maybe +1 for tone control (or whatever it is called), I can't remember exactly, but it looked really good. Deep blacks, great color, and not dark at all (except when it was supposed to be). I am probably missing a little bit of the black floor because I have to compensate for the larger screen, but even so I fired up Interstellar and the space scenes were still "blacker" than the Epson.
Then I did some movies without metadata, and set the manual tone mapping to +13, and I think 3 on the tone control, and -2 on black (I tweaked it a few times) and watched a little bit of Avengers Infinity War and it looked pretty spectacular. I then fired up Star Trek (I think the 3rd in the reboot series?) and again, it looked excellent!
Then out of curiosity, I turned on the BT2020 color mode with the color filter. On the Epson this was a 20-25% loss in light, and completely made HDR unwatchable on my screen. I had gained some light with the Paladin DCR lens, and didn't want to give up even one lumen, so I was fully expecting to just turn it back off. But holy cow, I barely noticed it get darker! I mean, some people measured 10% drop, but I was skeptical. 10% is barely noticeable, as long as you have enough light to begin with. I heard the filter move into place, and the color improved just a bit, but it was still an excellent image in terms of the amount of light. So I tried it on a few different UHD movies and I have to say, I really love it.
I almost went to bed feeling a bit disappointed in the HDR performance, but pushing through and finding the right settings and playing around got me to the point where I am excited to watch more. Is it worth the price? That is subjective of course. It is finally where I wanted my video to be, and while I could always use more light due to the large screen, I am confident I won't be struggling on HDR movies any more. For me that was worth the price. The increase in light and resolution on scope format with the lens is noticeable, but again, like everything else, not revolutionary. I am sure in the coming weeks I will hit some content that makes me go "Wow!", but in initial testing I am just simply satisfied.
ETA: One more thing I forgot... Holy bright corners! I have always read about JVC's bright corners and thought it was something that you can only see under very specific circumstances (similar to pixel peeping), but the first time I settled in to watch some content with the lights off, the black screen before content starts showed off this flaw as clear as day. I don't particularly care, I understand it is due to the lens design, and I don't notice it in regular content, but wow, it was far more noticeable than I expected. I just wanted to throw that in for completeness.
I'm actually having a replacement sent to me because of the corners. They are SO bright that it seems abnormal. And the lower left side is purple and the lower right side is bright green. Very distracting.