Official JVC RS3000/NX9 - JVC RS2000/NX7/N7 - JVC RS1000/NX5/N5 - Owners Thread - Page 352 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #10531 of 16525 Old 04-25-2019, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
The only exception is if you have a source that can't upscale to 4K (say an HDTV box) and you don't have a good VP, so you're actually sending 1080p to the PJ. The internal upscaler of the new models isn't that great for 1080p content, so in that case you might get better results playing that kind of content at native 1080p or with eshift on the rs500. I'm not picky for HDTV, so I still use the rs2000 with TV, even if its internal 1080p upscaling isn't as good as the rs500.
Another option is to find a player like the Oppo-103 which has an HDMI input and upscale in that device to 4K. I've successfully used that configuration with a 1080i/p TiVo box and my 103D allows me to judiciously apply Darbee processing to legacy content prior to upscaling.
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post #10532 of 16525 Old 04-25-2019, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
Okay, guessing that you are around 15' since minimum throw for 123" diagonal 2.35 is 13'-8" when using zoom method and 1:1 pixel. For 98" diagonal 16:9 the range is 10'-2" to 20'-9", so 15' would be very close to mid throw. So a minimum of 10%, but may be closer to 12% loss. Also the dual iris projectors have always been able to dim down lower than the single iris projectors. As I said, you will not have a problem getting down to 16FL for your setup.
Thanks!
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post #10533 of 16525 Old 04-25-2019, 08:22 PM
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Has anyone tried viewing Black Summer on Netlifx to test the yellowing?

Between each scene is an introduction which is white text on black background. Might be a useful test for those that don’t have Lucy


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post #10534 of 16525 Old 04-25-2019, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill DePalma View Post
I am also experiencing random clamping down of the iris. In my case I had just changed a screen memory from one setting to another, this seemed to cause the iris to close down and stay there. I then tried to change the iris in manual mode through the various positions, 0 thru -15 and back several times. Initially the iris would not change and then gradually it started to show changes in light output. While it seems to be working now, I would not describe the changes in light output from one click to the next as being equal. Between -9 thru -5 there are small changes and then a very large change between -5 and -4. Also the sounds that it makes are not heard during each change, just between certain numbers, like -4 thru -5. Trying to remember if my RS600 behaved this way. Hopefully a small bug.
A factory reset did not get things back to normal for me. I tried all possible settings back and forth, but only a power cycle solves this issue. This happened about 5 times on my new unit (300+ hours on the lamp) and two times on the first unit (150 hours).

Since the above post, I am coming up on 400 hours usage. Also I keep getting this issue more frequent. Random clamping down too much of the iris (both Auto1 / 2) in dark scenes. Occured again yesterday. I run manual aperture 0 and Auto2. It seems the DI clamps down to an equivalent of manual aperture -7 in my case. Lowering aperture, turning DI on or off, doesnt make it reset to normal operation. Only a shutdown and pull the plug seem to reset the DI from this. Apart from trying all possible settings changes I could come up with, also changing the order of which I turn on the apparatus. Still havent found any trigger for this. I made the decision to turn the DI off, and also avoid the yellowing issue. Hoping for a firmware update to fix this. However I am curious if any other N7 or NX9 owners have experienced this, so that it is not a fault in my unit only.
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Last edited by Drem; 04-25-2019 at 09:47 PM.
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post #10535 of 16525 Old 04-25-2019, 10:07 PM
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That is why I sent by certified mail.
When I build PC's and play the MIR game, I just make copies of everything, funny enough I had to call and resubmit about 5% of them I would say, that's a lot I think.
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post #10536 of 16525 Old 04-26-2019, 04:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
Not that hard to find.
I had 2 different dealers looking for me in different parts of the us and only 1 was located. Do you have them stockpiled in your basement and didn’t zombie have to import from Japan?
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post #10537 of 16525 Old 04-26-2019, 04:27 AM
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Originally Posted by ultra 150 pilot View Post
I had 2 different dealers looking for me in different parts of the us and only 1 was located. Do you have them stockpiled in your basement and didn’t zombie have to import from Japan?
I can tell you from personal experience, Mike can have one to you in a few days
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post #10538 of 16525 Old 04-26-2019, 05:01 AM
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I can tell you from personal experience, Mike can have one to you in a few days
I’ve already got mine, but that’s good to know for others looking
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post #10539 of 16525 Old 04-26-2019, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by ARROW-AV View Post
JVC RS3000/NX9 | STEWART FILMSCREEN STUDIOTEK 130 G3 SCREEN MATERIAL | 130" SCREEN SIZE | 4.3m / 14' 1" THROW DISTANCE:

• SDR | IRIS -10 | LOW LAMP | NO BT.2020 COLOR FILTER = 17.4 fL --> ON/OFF CONTRAST = 115,581:1 (DYNAMIC) / 45,233:1 (NATIVE)

• SDR | IRIS -10 | LOW LAMP | WITH BT.2020 COLOR FILTER = 12.2 fL --> ON/OFF CONTRAST = 118,695:1 (DYNAMIC) / 53,618:1 (NATIVE)

• HDR | IRIS 0 | HIGH LAMP | NO BT.2020 COLOR FILTER = 37.8 fL --> ON/OFF CONTRAST = 217,713:1 (DYNAMIC) / 22,900:1 (NATIVE)

• HDR | IRIS 0 | HIGH LAMP | WITH BT.2020 COLOR FILTER = 30.7 fL --> ON/OFF CONTRAST = 191,375:1 (DYNAMIC) / 25,613:1 (NATIVE)









Nigel, are these measurements with the lens shift at the no offset center position? There is a rumor that internal reflections are moved off screen when significant lens shift is used, thus reducing halos on bright objects and significantly improving ANSI contrast as a result. If you're not using any lens shift, it would be interesting to try that to see if the ANSI contrast is improved.
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post #10540 of 16525 Old 04-26-2019, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by ultra 150 pilot View Post
I had 2 different dealers looking for me in different parts of the us and only 1 was located. Do you have them stockpiled in your basement and didn’t zombie have to import from Japan?
I do actually have two at my house. Forgot I had one and a couple years later, I bought a second one. Three if you count the JVC IR one.
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post #10541 of 16525 Old 04-26-2019, 07:10 AM
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I got an JVC RF emitter last week from Projectorscreen.com. Using it with Sony glasses which work fine. The RS 2000 throws a great picture. I’m very happy with it—no issues to date.
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post #10542 of 16525 Old 04-26-2019, 07:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by deltagamma View Post
Nigel, are these measurements with the lens shift at the no offset center position? There is a rumor that internal reflections are moved off screen when significant lens shift is used, thus reducing halos on bright objects and significantly improving ANSI contrast as a result. If you're not using any lens shift, it would be interesting to try that to see if the ANSI contrast is improved.
No these measurements are not with the lens shift at the no offset center position. They are with lens shift

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post #10543 of 16525 Old 04-26-2019, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Drem View Post
A factory reset did not get things back to normal for me. I tried all possible settings back and forth, but only a power cycle solves this issue. This happened about 5 times on my new unit (300+ hours on the lamp) and two times on the first unit (150 hours).

Since the above post, I am coming up on 400 hours usage. Also I keep getting this issue more frequent. Random clamping down too much of the iris (both Auto1 / 2) in dark scenes. Occured again yesterday. I run manual aperture 0 and Auto2. It seems the DI clamps down to an equivalent of manual aperture -7 in my case. Lowering aperture, turning DI on or off, doesnt make it reset to normal operation. Only a shutdown and pull the plug seem to reset the DI from this. Apart from trying all possible settings changes I could come up with, also changing the order of which I turn on the apparatus. Still havent found any trigger for this. I made the decision to turn the DI off, and also avoid the yellowing issue. Hoping for a firmware update to fix this. However I am curious if any other N7 or NX9 owners have experienced this, so that it is not a fault in my unit only.
I'm not even sure how the iris is supposed to work anymore or if it's working correctly. Things seemed fine with 1.21 firmware and when I updated to the latest firmware to get the Panasonic color profiles I notice different behavior with the iris. It certainly is different from the RS-500 I had.
I'm at -8 Auto2 for SDR and 0 Auto2 for HDR. Going into manual mode and going through the iris steps it doesn't seem to change in light output or make a sound for 3 or 4 clicks of the remote whether going up or down. So, lets say I'm -8 and I go to -7 or -6 it doesn't seem to change in the least.
When I looked at Lucy again with Manual iris at 0 and Auto2 the opening credits don't seem to dim in the least like they did with firmware 1.21. It looks like I have it set to manual and the DI is off but, that is not the case. The reason I updated the firmware is to get the quicker boot up time and the Panasonic profiles but, it seems like the latest firmware also messed with how the iris functions.
I liked the DI with firmware 1.21, it didn't pump like my RS-500 did but, now it doesn't seem like it's doing anything in auto1 or auto2.
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post #10544 of 16525 Old 04-26-2019, 07:24 AM
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Yes, I have the jvc emmiter, expand glasses and the Epson glasses work with jvc nx5

These emitters are very difficult to find, I just got one of very few if not the last one in the us.
Difficult to find?

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro..._BIN=1&_sop=15
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post #10545 of 16525 Old 04-26-2019, 07:30 AM
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I looked on ebay as well when buying mine, but it looks like there is still the same issue as I saw, all of those look to be shipping from Japan. Not that I mind, but the shipping time is going to be a lot longer than from a dealer in the US. The price is also either higher or about the same as what I paid from a dealer.
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post #10546 of 16525 Old 04-26-2019, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by ARROW-AV View Post
No these measurements are not with the lens shift at the no offset center position. They are with lens shift


Okay, well the obvious question is how much lens shift were you using? Ideally, it would be about 50% vertical, 0% horizontal, to be similar to how most people install their projectors (i.e., near the ceiling pointing at the top edge of the screen). Usually when people set up test scenarios, they put the projector on a table with the projector at about mid screen and use very little lens shift. Thus my inquiry.
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post #10547 of 16525 Old 04-26-2019, 07:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Okay, well the obvious question is how much lens shift were you using? Ideally, it would be about 50% vertical, 0% horizontal, to be similar to how most people install their projectors (i.e., near the ceiling pointing at the top edge of the screen). Usually when people set up test scenarios, they put the projector on a table with the projector at about mid screen and use very little lens shift. Thus my inquiry.
Yes, at least that amount of lens shift was used, namely about 60% vertical and 0% horizontal


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post #10548 of 16525 Old 04-26-2019, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom Bley View Post
I'm not even sure how the iris is supposed to work anymore or if it's working correctly. Things seemed fine with 1.21 firmware and when I updated to the latest firmware to get the Panasonic color profiles I notice different behavior with the iris. It certainly is different from the RS-500 I had.

I'm at -8 Auto2 for SDR and 0 Auto2 for HDR. Going into manual mode and going through the iris steps it doesn't seem to change in light output or make a sound for 3 or 4 clicks of the remote whether going up or down. So, lets say I'm -8 and I go to -7 or -6 it doesn't seem to change in the least.

When I looked at Lucy again with Manual iris at 0 and Auto2 the opening credits don't seem to dim in the least like they did with firmware 1.21. It looks like I have it set to manual and the DI is off but, that is not the case. The reason I updated the firmware is to get the quicker boot up time and the Panasonic profiles but, it seems like the latest firmware also messed with how the iris functions.

I liked the DI with firmware 1.21, it didn't pump like my RS-500 did but, now it doesn't seem like it's doing anything in auto1 or auto2.
For me it seems to be the other way around. I had a more stable DI function with previous firmwares. I am not entirely sure but I seem to get this clamping-too-low effect much more with 2.01. Is it possible to flash an older firmware or is this function locked?

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post #10549 of 16525 Old 04-26-2019, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
You should have no problem at all getting down to 16FL for SDR with iris at -15 and P3 filter engaged. Even if you have your projector at short end of the throw range for scope, it puts you at mid throw for the 16:9. So loss for throw, loss for P3 and iris on -15 gets you down to 16FL when using ST130. It also maximizes your native contrast.

I can't help but think something is wrong with the light output on my projector (RS2000). I don't seem to be getting near the numbers that are posted here. After calibration, my calibrator measured 15FL in low lamp with IRIS at 0. This is with 133" 1.3 gain screen and the projector close to minimum distance to screen. I asked him if we could close the IRIS down so that I could maintain light output over the life of the lamp and he said no, it wouldn't be bright enough. He did not measure light output for HDR but he guessed it was around 20 FL. These numbers seem way low vs. what others are posting here. The picture is bright enough now at 15 FL but what happens when my bulb ages and I can't open the IRIS anymore?
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post #10550 of 16525 Old 04-26-2019, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by jim7jim View Post
I can't help but think something is wrong with the light output on my projector (RS2000). I don't seem to be getting near the numbers that are posted here. After calibration, my calibrator measured 15FL in low lamp with IRIS at 0. This is with 133" 1.3 gain screen and the projector close to minimum distance to screen. I asked him if we could close the IRIS down so that I could maintain light output over the life of the lamp and he said no, it wouldn't be bright enough. He did not measure light output for HDR but he guessed it was around 20 FL. These numbers seem way low vs. what others are posting here. The picture is bright enough now at 15 FL but what happens when my bulb ages and I can't open the IRIS anymore?
What fabric in your screen?
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post #10551 of 16525 Old 04-26-2019, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Drem View Post
A factory reset did not get things back to normal for me. I tried all possible settings back and forth, but only a power cycle solves this issue. This happened about 5 times on my new unit (300+ hours on the lamp) and two times on the first unit (150 hours).

Since the above post, I am coming up on 400 hours usage. Also I keep getting this issue more frequent. Random clamping down too much of the iris (both Auto1 / 2) in dark scenes. Occured again yesterday. I run manual aperture 0 and Auto2. It seems the DI clamps down to an equivalent of manual aperture -7 in my case. Lowering aperture, turning DI on or off, doesnt make it reset to normal operation. Only a shutdown and pull the plug seem to reset the DI from this. Apart from trying all possible settings changes I could come up with, also changing the order of which I turn on the apparatus. Still havent found any trigger for this. I made the decision to turn the DI off, and also avoid the yellowing issue. Hoping for a firmware update to fix this. However I am curious if any other N7 or NX9 owners have experienced this, so that it is not a fault in my unit only.
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Originally Posted by Drem View Post
For me it seems to be the other way around. I had a more stable DI function with previous firmwares. I am not entirely sure but I seem to get this clamping-too-low effect much more with 2.01. Is it possible to flash an older firmware or is this function locked?

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I'm not sure if it is possible to flash back to a previous firmware. I do like that my boot times are faster with the current firmware version.
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post #10552 of 16525 Old 04-26-2019, 08:23 AM
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I can't help but think something is wrong with the light output on my projector (RS2000). I don't seem to be getting near the numbers that are posted here. After calibration, my calibrator measured 15FL in low lamp with IRIS at 0. This is with 133" 1.3 gain screen and the projector close to minimum distance to screen. I asked him if we could close the IRIS down so that I could maintain light output over the life of the lamp and he said no, it wouldn't be bright enough. He did not measure light output for HDR but he guessed it was around 20 FL. These numbers seem way low vs. what others are posting here. The picture is bright enough now at 15 FL but what happens when my bulb ages and I can't open the IRIS anymore?
Well you could always use high lamp for SDR and close the iris to get 12-14fL, then open up as the lamp ages, but unless the other iris positions / lamp modes are calibrated too, this will require a tune-up.

Is the 1.3 gain for your screen real or advertised? Many manufacturers advertise 1.3 and deliver barely above 1.0. This is the case for my Carada BW.

JVC Autocal Software V11 Calibration for 2019 Models (Google)
Batch Utility V4.02 May 16 2019 to automate measurements files for madVR with support for BD Folders
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post #10553 of 16525 Old 04-26-2019, 08:48 AM
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No these measurements are not with the lens shift at the no offset center position. They are with lens shift

It looks like you ran this calculation for just HDR iris 0. This is where the NX9 has the poorest black level. Can you rerun the calculations for SDR Iris -10 as this is relevant considering most content is still SDR.
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post #10554 of 16525 Old 04-26-2019, 08:56 AM
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Hi All, I have a very basic/naive question regarding brightness specifications. The NX7 is rated at 1900 lm (according to JVC) and what I'm trying to figure out is how does this relate to nits, or does it?

1) JVC DLA-NX7 & Sony 65Z9D, Yamaha CX-A5200, Outlaw Audio 7900 & 7700, UDP-203, DP-UB9000, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
2) Sony 75Z9D, Yamaha RX-A3080, 2xOutlaw Audio 2200s, UDP-203, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
3) Sony 75X940E, Yamaha RX-A2080, UDP-203, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
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post #10555 of 16525 Old 04-26-2019, 09:29 AM
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Hi All, I have a very basic/naive question regarding brightness specifications. The NX7 is rated at 1900 lm (according to JVC) and what I'm trying to figure out is how does this relate to nits, or does it?
The lumens rating is related to the nits you’ll be getting, but there are many other factors involved. If you use a calculator like this you will see all the factors.
http://webprojectorcalculator.com/

This particular calculator hasn’t been updated to include the NX7, but you can get a pretty good idea by selecting one of the eshift models.
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post #10556 of 16525 Old 04-26-2019, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
Well you could always use high lamp for SDR and close the iris to get 12-14fL, then open up as the lamp ages, but unless the other iris positions / lamp modes are calibrated too, this will require a tune-up.

Is the 1.3 gain for your screen real or advertised? Many manufacturers advertise 1.3 and deliver barely above 1.0. This is the case for my Carada BW.
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What fabric in your screen?

I'm not sure if the screen gain specified is accurate. Screen info:

Screen Innovations
5TF133PW
SI series 5
16:9 aspect ratio
1.3 gain Pure White
Viewing area 65.1875" x 115.9375"
Out to out 72.4375" x 123.1875"

Manni, while that's an option obviously not ideal.

I did send in for my free bulb so maybe when it arrives, I can swap it out and see if it's any brighter. Although, I have no way to measure other than my eyeballs.
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post #10557 of 16525 Old 04-26-2019, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by jim7jim View Post
I'm not sure if the screen gain specified is accurate. Screen info:

Screen Innovations
5TF133PW
SI series 5
16:9 aspect ratio
1.3 gain Pure White
Viewing area 65.1875" x 115.9375"
Out to out 72.4375" x 123.1875"

Manni, while that's an option obviously not ideal.

I did send in for my free bulb so maybe when it arrives, I can swap it out and see if it's any brighter. Although, I have no way to measure other than my eyeballs.
If not properly calibrated, you can lose a lot of lumens. Not saying that is the issue, but a possibility?
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post #10558 of 16525 Old 04-26-2019, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
If not properly calibrated, you can lose a lot of lumens. Not saying that is the issue, but a possibility?
I used Jeff Meier from AccuCal. He seemed very knowledgeable and was very friendly and answered all my annoying questions but I don't have the expertise myself to know for sure.
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post #10559 of 16525 Old 04-26-2019, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim7jim View Post
I used Jeff Meier from AccuCal. He seemed very knowledgeable and was very friendly and answered all my annoying questions but I don't have the expertise myself to know for sure.
I sent you an email.
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post #10560 of 16525 Old 04-26-2019, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
The lumens rating is related to the nits you’ll be getting, but there are many other factors involved. If you use a calculator like this you will see all the factors.
http://webprojectorcalculator.com/

This particular calculator hasn’t been updated to include the NX7, but you can get a pretty good idea by selecting one of the eshift models.
Thanks for the response and the link (looks pretty useful), but I was hoping for something simpler than that. I see references to the various hits values with my UB9000 player for its optimiser and was hoping to be able to relate those values (e.g., 350 nits, 500 nits, etc.) to what the NX7 is capable of. I suspect that it's not all that simple, but even a ball-park value for the setting would help.

1) JVC DLA-NX7 & Sony 65Z9D, Yamaha CX-A5200, Outlaw Audio 7900 & 7700, UDP-203, DP-UB9000, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
2) Sony 75Z9D, Yamaha RX-A3080, 2xOutlaw Audio 2200s, UDP-203, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
3) Sony 75X940E, Yamaha RX-A2080, UDP-203, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
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