Official JVC RS3000/NX9 - JVC RS2000/NX7/N7 - JVC RS1000/NX5/N5 - Owners Thread - Page 353 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #10561 of 14022 Old 04-26-2019, 11:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by GregCh View Post
It looks like you ran this calculation for just HDR iris 0. This is where the NX9 has the poorest black level. Can you rerun the calculations for SDR Iris -10 as this is relevant considering most content is still SDR.
Obviously the full range of contrast measurements and plot correspond to HDR, specifically:

• HDR | IRIS 0 | HIGH LAMP | NO BT.2020 COLOR FILTER = 37.8 fL --> ON/OFF CONTRAST = 217,713:1 (DYNAMIC) / 22,900:1 (NATIVE)

Yes I can and will run the corresponding measurements for SDR

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post #10562 of 14022 Old 04-26-2019, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by dsm1212 View Post
But I have an unrelated question. While selecting a netflix show tonight (roku) the pj was switching between 4k60p and 4k24p to start the show. After the picture came back it was bad. Text on left of screen was sort of overlaid as darker colors on the right. When I pulled up the pj menus they were sort of crosshatched and overlaid. I stopped the show, switch devices (from roku to ps3 at 1080p) but nothing cleared it up. Menus still a mess and display had other ghosts on it. I powered down everything and restarted. That fixed it, but do you think this is a bug or a defect?
Has anyone else ever seen this problem? My dealer says to let him know if it happens again but if I'm the only one having it I'd like to know. In particular if you have had tens to hundreds of hours using with a roku without seeing it. If it is a bug I think it is likely triggered by some glitch during display rate switching. Once the PJ overlays are whacked there is nothing else involved than the pj, but I guess it could be triggered by something odd in the cable or AVR that messed up the display rate in the first place.

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post #10563 of 14022 Old 04-26-2019, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by bwillcox View Post
Thanks for the response and the link (looks pretty useful), but I was hoping for something simpler than that. I see references to the various hits values with my UB9000 player for its optimiser and was hoping to be able to relate those values (e.g., 350 nits, 500 nits, etc.) to what the NX7 is capable of. I suspect that it's not all that simple, but even a ball-park value for the setting would help.
It's a little difficult to explain, but for the purpose of setting up the UB9000 you shouldn't be comparing the actual nits of the projector. No one gets 350 nits, never mind 500. Just pick one in the UB9000 and select the corresponding colour profile in the NX7. The 350 nits setting gives you more saturated colours, 500 more brightness (but you can still adjust the brightness in the UB9000 HDR settings.

Remember to set gamma to 2.2.

Last edited by Dominic Chan; 04-26-2019 at 12:35 PM.
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post #10564 of 14022 Old 04-26-2019, 01:31 PM
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This is a question for anyone running a Paladin lens with their new Projectors.


When I set everything up without the A-Lens, my convergence is perfect on my NX9. However, when I install the A-Lens, my convergence is out the window. I have to use the zone controls to fine tune everything. In some cases the zones are in need of red and blue corrections of 10 or more clicks. Is this is a normal behavior or do I have a bad lens? I can take some pictures and post them on here to show the difference with and without the corrections. Again, convergence is perfect when the A-Lens is not in use. This is really bothering me as the consensus seems to be that any use of the zone adjustments will degrade picture quality. Especially at the levels I am having to adjust.


Would definitely like to hear from people with a Paladin lens. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]
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Last edited by yankiy; 04-26-2019 at 02:05 PM. Reason: Here are some pictures as best as the phone can focus... these are from no convergence adjustments.
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post #10565 of 14022 Old 04-26-2019, 01:36 PM
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I do actually have two at my house. Forgot I had one and a couple years later, I bought a second one. Three if you count the JVC IR one.


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post #10566 of 14022 Old 04-26-2019, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by yankiy View Post
This is a question for anyone running a Paladin lens with their new Projectors.


When I set everything up without the A-Lens, my convergence is perfect on my NX9. However, when I install the A-Lens, my convergence is out the window. I have to use the zone controls to fine tune everything. In some cases the zones are in need of red and blue corrections of 10 or more clicks. Is this is a normal behavior or do I have a bad lens? I can take some pictures and post them on here to show the difference with and without the corrections. Again, convergence is perfect when the A-Lens is not in use. This is really bothering me as the consensus seems to be that any use of the zone adjustments will degrade picture quality. Especially at the levels I am having to adjust.


Would definitely like to hear from people with a Paladin lens.
I am not having this issue with the paladin dcr lens. Have you tried making adjustments with the tilt or height of the lens?
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post #10567 of 14022 Old 04-26-2019, 01:41 PM
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post #10568 of 14022 Old 04-26-2019, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by jason4vu View Post

I am not having this issue with the paladin dcr lens. Have you tried making adjustments with the tilt or height of the lens?
Just posted some pics of the issue with the a-lens in place and no convergence adjustments.

I absolutely love your theater by the way! Gorgeous!
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post #10569 of 14022 Old 04-26-2019, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by jeahrens View Post
I'd really suggest trying the 820 with basic luminance, HDR BT.2020, Optimizer on(all settings zero'd). JVC in HDRPQ, auto tonemapping on and then adjust the overall mapping to get the brightness where you want it (I'm at +2). Make sure you use a title with good meta data to set the overall mapping level on the JVC.

So far this combo has shined with every title I've thrown at it that has metadata. The ones without, thanks Disney, I just use the Panasonic optimizer to correct.

I use the color filter on my setup, but that basic config should work without as well.
can you elaborate on what happens with Disney titles?

I watched Last Jedi (4k) and it was really really dark. I noticed the Pani 820 didnt report the MaxFALL or MaxCLL in the status menu.

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post #10570 of 14022 Old 04-26-2019, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by bwillcox View Post
Thanks for the response and the link (looks pretty useful), but I was hoping for something simpler than that. I see references to the various hits values with my UB9000 player for its optimiser and was hoping to be able to relate those values (e.g., 350 nits, 500 nits, etc.) to what the NX7 is capable of. I suspect that it's not all that simple, but even a ball-park value for the setting would help.
Hi BWillcox,

From a fact-of-life perspective, Dominic Chan answered your question related to matching your UB9000 to your RS2000.

However, back to your initial question of what is a nit and how does it relate to your projector and screen. I will quickly highlight some points:

1st: 1 nit is equal to .292 foot lamberts, or 100 nits = 29.2 FtL. If I remember correctly, commercial theater standards for HDR is 100 nits to 108 nits, or ~29-31 FtL. Hence, why many people try to get ~30 FtL or more for HDR on their front projection system.

2nd: after calibration, a lot of RS1000/2000 projectors are getting in the area of just over 1500 lumens (from what I've seen thus far, although some appear to get less). But that is using the full 17:9 panel, on a 16:9 picture you can expect a drop of 6%-7% of light output from the projector.

3rd: So, for a quick calculation on a 1.0 gain screen, 100" diagonal 16:9 format, minimum throw, on a high lamp mode with iris at 0 and P3 filter not set: (1500 lumens x .935 (light output for 16:9 panel) x 1.0 (screen gain)) / 29.6 sf (sf of screen) = 47 FtL.

So, in theory, the person in the above example could use the 47 FtL (or ~160 nits) for HDR. Some people will do that, others will set their iris, P3 filter, maybe lamp mode, etc. to get closer to the 30 FtL standard (e.g., the black floor is lower at 30 FtL vs 47 FtL).

I hope this helps.
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post #10571 of 14022 Old 04-26-2019, 02:47 PM
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If not properly calibrated, you can lose a lot of lumens. Not saying that is the issue, but a possibility?
I used Jeff Meier from AccuCal. He seemed very knowledgeable and was very friendly and answered all my annoying questions [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif[/IMG] but I don't have the expertise myself to know for sure.
Jeff is calibrating my NX5 tomorrow.
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post #10572 of 14022 Old 04-26-2019, 02:58 PM
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RS2000: I waited for the projector to warm up before going in for the Pixel Adjust. Managed to get the red in line with the with one or two clicks. As for the blue, there is an extremely tiny amount of blue overlap over the white line. This is only when viewed from around 1” from the screen and below. Is this normal ?
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post #10573 of 14022 Old 04-26-2019, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by abinav555 View Post
RS2000: I waited for the projector to warm up before going in for the Pixel Adjust. Managed to get the red in line with the with one or two clicks. As for the blue, there is an extremely tiny amount of blue overlap over the white line. This is only when viewed from around 1” from the screen and below. Is this normal ?
Anything short of severe panel misalignment is normal, provided it looks good from the seating position. A little bit of blue "overlapping" the white line might be chromatic aberration rather than a convergence issue, but again if it looks good from more than 1' away it's fine.
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post #10574 of 14022 Old 04-26-2019, 03:42 PM
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What is the downside of using the zoom function in the installation menu to scale the image to fit the 4k panel?
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post #10575 of 14022 Old 04-26-2019, 03:55 PM
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What is the downside of using the zoom function in the installation menu to scale the image to fit the 4k panel?
Not sure what you mean by this. You don't use zoom to scale the image to fit the 4K panel. You use the zoom to scale the image to fit your screen. The 4k panel is always going to be a little larger than the actual UHD image.

No downside to using zoom at all except for overall light output decreasing as you move the projector farther away and zoom the image down to fit screen.
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post #10576 of 14022 Old 04-26-2019, 04:10 PM
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What is the downside of using the zoom function in the installation menu to scale the image to fit the 4k panel?
Not sure what you mean by this. You don't use zoom to scale the image to fit the 4K panel. You use the zoom to scale the image to fit your screen. The 4k panel is always going to be a little larger than the actual UHD image.

No downside to using zoom at all except for overall light output decreasing as you move the projector farther away and zoom the image down to fit screen.
Apologies as I don’t think I was clear in what I was asking. There is a zoom function in the sub installation menu where you can use the full 4096 x 2160 panel when watching 3840 x 2160 content.
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post #10577 of 14022 Old 04-26-2019, 04:15 PM
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Apologies as I don’t think I was clear in what I was asking. There is a zoom function in the sub installation menu where you can use the full 4096 x 2160 panel when watching 3840 x 2160 content.
I noticed no degredation using the option. You will cut off a very small amount of the picture top and bottom but, I don't notice it.

You were clear because you mentioned the zoom function in the installation menu and to fit the native 4k panel.
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post #10578 of 14022 Old 04-26-2019, 04:19 PM
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Apologies as I don’t think I was clear in what I was asking. There is a zoom function in the sub installation menu where you can use the full 4096 x 2160 panel when watching 3840 x 2160 content.
You will be truncating 72 pixels top and bottom when watching 16:9 movies. Also, some people prefer watching “1:1” pixel ratio rather than scaled images.
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post #10579 of 14022 Old 04-26-2019, 05:31 PM
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Apologies as I don’t think I was clear in what I was asking. There is a zoom function in the sub installation menu where you can use the full 4096 x 2160 panel when watching 3840 x 2160 content.
No problem. My mistake, I should have guessed that is what you meant. I have never used this function as I don't see the problem with just displaying one to one the 3840x2160 image on the full 4K panel. The over projection is just lost in the screen velvet frame in my case.
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post #10580 of 14022 Old 04-26-2019, 08:52 PM
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Love all the "my dealer" quotes. I have used it to. We all sound like a bunch of addicts..which we are...just not what it sounds like when you read those words. Hope the DEA doesn't read these boards
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post #10581 of 14022 Old 04-26-2019, 09:23 PM
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For someone who can't imagine trying to go through this whole thread...


...can anyone give me a snapshot as to how these new 4K JVCs are performing? People happy? Smooth sailing or beset with issues?


I still have my RS600 which I intend to keep until at least the next JVC 4K generation.
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post #10582 of 14022 Old 04-26-2019, 10:08 PM
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For someone who can't imagine trying to go through this whole thread...


...can anyone give me a snapshot as to how these new 4K JVCs are performing? People happy? Smooth sailing or beset with issues?


I still have my RS600 which I intend to keep until at least the next JVC 4K generation.
Rich there are a few issues here and there but each past JVC version has had something that wasnt perfect. I have had every top model from JVC for the last 10 years, my NX9 is still the very best out of all my past JVCs! e.g, they are GOOD and I would hate to go back to a 1080 e-shift model.

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post #10583 of 14022 Old 04-26-2019, 10:54 PM
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I haven’t read all this thread, is Gamma droop a thing of the past wth this new series ?.

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post #10584 of 14022 Old 04-26-2019, 11:03 PM
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Thanks matt.

Also is there anyway to know if the focus is in the best possible position? I feel like there could be one more click to make it sharper but it just starts going blurry again .
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post #10585 of 14022 Old 04-26-2019, 11:07 PM
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Thanks matt.

Also is there anyway to know if the focus is in the best possible position? I feel like there could be one more click to make it sharper but it just starts going blurry again .
You can take a picture of it with a good camera and compare by looking at the picture zoomed in digitally on your monitor, but then what's the point, it will make zero difference from seating position compared to just eyeing it. Just walk up to the screen and eye the sharpness of the pixels as you focus.

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post #10586 of 14022 Old 04-26-2019, 11:08 PM
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I'm not even sure how the iris is supposed to work anymore or if it's working correctly. Things seemed fine with 1.21 firmware and when I updated to the latest firmware to get the Panasonic color profiles I notice different behavior with the iris. It certainly is different from the RS-500 I had.
I'm at -8 Auto2 for SDR and 0 Auto2 for HDR. Going into manual mode and going through the iris steps it doesn't seem to change in light output or make a sound for 3 or 4 clicks of the remote whether going up or down. So, lets say I'm -8 and I go to -7 or -6 it doesn't seem to change in the least.
When I looked at Lucy again with Manual iris at 0 and Auto2 the opening credits don't seem to dim in the least like they did with firmware 1.21. It looks like I have it set to manual and the DI is off but, that is not the case. The reason I updated the firmware is to get the quicker boot up time and the Panasonic profiles but, it seems like the latest firmware also messed with how the iris functions.
I liked the DI with firmware 1.21, it didn't pump like my RS-500 did but, now it doesn't seem like it's doing anything in auto1 or auto2.
You should see some light level change on every click of the iris and if you have an RS2000 or RS3000 you should hear the lamp iris every other click of the iris. It sounds like your iris is either broken or you got it into one of those states where it's out of wack and thinks its either all the way open or all the way closed. People in this thread have had that problem and fixed it, but I cant remember how.

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post #10587 of 14022 Old 04-26-2019, 11:10 PM
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I can't help but think something is wrong with the light output on my projector (RS2000). I don't seem to be getting near the numbers that are posted here. After calibration, my calibrator measured 15FL in low lamp with IRIS at 0. This is with 133" 1.3 gain screen and the projector close to minimum distance to screen. I asked him if we could close the IRIS down so that I could maintain light output over the life of the lamp and he said no, it wouldn't be bright enough. He did not measure light output for HDR but he guessed it was around 20 FL. These numbers seem way low vs. what others are posting here. The picture is bright enough now at 15 FL but what happens when my bulb ages and I can't open the IRIS anymore?
Grab a cheap light meter and measure your lux and convert to lumens. Your lamp may be a dud. Measure on high bright setting with a full white image displayed. Or your calibrator may have done a poor job and sacrificed too much brightness to get an extra 1% of color accuracy etc.

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post #10588 of 14022 Old 04-26-2019, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by jim7jim View Post
I'm not sure if the screen gain specified is accurate. Screen info:

Screen Innovations
5TF133PW
SI series 5
16:9 aspect ratio
1.3 gain Pure White
Viewing area 65.1875" x 115.9375"
Out to out 72.4375" x 123.1875"

Manni, while that's an option obviously not ideal.

I did send in for my free bulb so maybe when it arrives, I can swap it out and see if it's any brighter. Although, I have no way to measure other than my eyeballs.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005A0ETXY

Video: JVC RS4500 135" screen in pure black room no light, htpc nvidia 1080ti.
Audio: Anthem mrx720 running 7.1.4, McIntosh MC-303, MC-152, B&W 802d3 LR, B&W HTM1D3 center, B&W 805d3 surround, B&W 702S2 rear, B&W 706s2 x 4 shelf mounted for atmos, 2 sub arrays both infinite baffle: 4x15 fi audio running on behringer ep4000 + 4x12 fi audio running on 2nd ep4000.
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post #10589 of 14022 Old 04-26-2019, 11:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abinav555 View Post
Thanks matt.

Also is there anyway to know if the focus is in the best possible position? I feel like there could be one more click to make it sharper but it just starts going blurry again .
You can take a picture of it with a good camera and compare by looking at the picture zoomed in digitally on your monitor, but then what's the point, it will make zero difference from seating position compared to just eyeing it. Just walk up to the screen and eye the sharpness of the pixels as you focus.

I try to make the focus tack sharp when i walk upclose to the screen as well but it does not seem to get where i want it to be. Like i said, it feels like it’s one click away from achieving that.
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post #10590 of 14022 Old 04-27-2019, 12:08 AM
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Haven’t fully installed and gotten my NX9 set up yet, as I’m working way too many hours. But some random thoughts so far:

1. Flawless. So far absolutely no flaws. No blobs, purple fringes, nothing. Just beautiful. I wish I had time to watch some movies I’ve collected that I haven’t watched yet!

2. This PJ is BRIGHT, IMO. At OOB settings (no settings touched except lens zoom and shift), no MadVR or even Panny 820, just ATV 4K and Shield TV with MrMC on direct UHD Blu-ray rips, HDR shows great shadow detail and highlights cause a great glare effect. Beautiful image on Blue Planet, Gladiator, and the Matrix. Wondering if I even need to finish my MadVR machine.

3. Shield TV is VERY rough ‘round the edges, compared to the Apple TV 4K. The Netflix app’s UI is 1080p, not 4K, only a small fraction of the 4K titles show as 4K. MrMC is also lacks polish compared to Infuse on ATV. The best way to watch Plex media is with the Plex plugin which doesn’t come enabled by default, but a lot of glitches, dropped frames (esp with subtitles), sometime the screen going blank (blue) with “Out of range” error. But for now, until I have my MadVR machine set up, it’s the only way to watch 4K HDR with Atmos.

4. I can’t comment on blacks yet, as I have an acoustically transparent screen and I haven’t painted the wall behind the screen black yet. You can see light shining through on dark portions of the image, including shadows of two vertical support bars behind the screen near the very center.

But it’s gorgeous.

JVC DLA-NX9 / 156" 2.4:1 CIH Seymour AT screen / Marantz AV7704 11.2 / Yamaha MX-A5000 11-ch amp
HTPC MadVR RTX 2080 / 24TB PMS Server (direct UHD rips)
Adam A8X monitor LCR / RBH A-610 x 8 / Kef Ci160ER x 4 / HSU ULS-15
Secondary: Samsung UN82MU8000 / Marantz NR1607 AVR / Kef Q150 + Minx Min 10 / SVS SB-2000
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