Official JVC RS3000/NX9 - JVC RS2000/NX7/N7 - JVC RS1000/NX5/N5 - Owners Thread - Page 377 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #11281 of 17844 Old 05-11-2019, 06:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregCh View Post
JVC measures their reported calculations with the iris set around -15. Most measurements you have seen are at iris 0. I would imagine that JVCs numbers are fairly close for iris -15 setting.
Not the dynamic numbers. On say a totally black screen, the black level goes beyond -15 to the same level it would if you are on 0 or -15 to start. Problem is the firmware doesn't bring the black floor low enough.

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Originally Posted by Nexgen76 View Post
Well don't look like the vertical lines issue because when you get hit with vertical lines you can't see the picture at all. JVC got a major issue on their hands. How they couldn't see this in QC is beyond me.
I think it's hard to reproduce. Some guys dont see it in the first 200 hours of use. It also sounds like it's not a defective projector issue but some sort of processing issue and/or design issue that needs to be worked around. When something cant be easily reproduced, its hard to debug and fix. You cant expect JVC to "QC" each projector for 250 hours before shipping.

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post #11282 of 17844 Old 05-11-2019, 06:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
Not the dynamic numbers. On say a totally black screen, the black level goes beyond -15 to the same level it would if you are on 0 or -15 to start. Problem is the firmware doesn't bring the black floor low enough.
This might have been the case on some older JVC units, but it isn't the case on recent models. If you have a meter you can measure it; even on my x7900 it doesn't go to the same black level for DI on for 0 to -15. On the X7900 0 to -8 or -9 are the same black level, then the black level gets progressively darker towards -15. -15 has approx 2x greater black level than -8.
See below measurements from my X7900.
I'm sure this behaviour probably makes it impossible to hit the published dynamic specs, which I think are based on the old behaviour that the units no longer exhibit. JVC really should update their numbers. If you look at my unit, if the -15 black level was applied to 0 it would be very close to meeting spec.

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post #11283 of 17844 Old 05-11-2019, 06:22 AM
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So is there less noticeable DI pumping on the x790 when the fixed aperture is set to -15, as opposed to 0?

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post #11284 of 17844 Old 05-11-2019, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by coderguy View Post
So is there less noticeable DI pumping on the x790 when the fixed aperture is set to -15, as opposed to 0?
A bit, this has always been the case as the gap is much smaller between the fixed aperture setting and the max closure. -15 on my X7900 only yields a 1.9x DI multiplier, whereas 0 yields 11.6x. @Manni01 also did some measurements in his RS2000 calibration thread which show this is a trend JVC have carried on in these new units. JVC have increased it seems the slope of the falloff in max DI closure as the iris opens on these new units.

Double edged sword. What they've done will make the iris less objectionable to sensitive folk to the DI operation, but also less useful to folk who want the blackest black at any cost. That is an engineering tradeoff which is understandable, what isn't OK is the huge discrepancy now between the published numbers and the actual performance. JVC need to either revise their specification or provide a mode which allows people to use the full extent of the iris travel and live with the consequences of that.
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post #11285 of 17844 Old 05-11-2019, 06:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DVD MAN View Post
They did send me the latest firmware 2.05 I believe, but unfortunately it did not take care of the issue. JVC did what ever the could to accommodate me including offering a replacement. But I only ha the PJ for 3 days and decided to return it. I will purchase it in the future when all the issues are taken care off. I still have a perfectly working RS 500.
Updating the firmware is not enough to get rid of the issue(s) you must do a full factory reset from the service menu, after the update, to be effective.
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post #11286 of 17844 Old 05-11-2019, 06:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobof View Post
A bit, this has always been the case as the gap is much smaller between the fixed aperture setting and the max closure. -15 on my X7900 only yields a 1.9x DI multiplier, whereas 0 yields 11.6x. @Manni01 also did some measurements in his RS2000 calibration thread which show this is a trend JVC have carried on in these new units. JVC have increased it seems the slope of the falloff in max DI closure as the iris opens on these new units.

Double edged sword. What they've done will make the iris less objectionable to sensitive folk to the DI operation, but also less useful to folk who want the blackest black at any cost. That is an engineering tradeoff which is understandable, what isn't OK is the huge discrepancy now between the published numbers and the actual performance. JVC need to either revise their specification or provide a mode which allows people to use the full extent of the iris travel and live with the consequences of that.
Yep, there's no reason there cant be an auto3 or such that brings the iris into a much more active state. This is purely a firmware issue in my opinion. Unless there's a limitation based on hardware that the current generation iris just cannot close and open to that degree fast enough.

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post #11287 of 17844 Old 05-11-2019, 06:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cindernat View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ultra 150 pilot View Post
I hear a clicking noise when my nx5 first starts up fo about 3 seconds that’s it.
Same (NX-7).
Same . NX7
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post #11288 of 17844 Old 05-11-2019, 06:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
Yea, I think this is the fault of the firmware. Seems arrow's first RS3000 measured well then a FW fix came out and it went from like 780K:1 all the way down to 250K:1. Super lame in my opinion. Glad I own an RS4500. I think I wouldn't have been satisfied with 250K:1 dynamic.
I was hoping that maybe it was a temporary reduction just to play it save and get the units out. But I have a feeling that this will be the new normal in the end.
The RS4500/Z1 won't be an option for me. A friend has it. There are some things that don't convince me apart from price, size and noise.
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post #11289 of 17844 Old 05-11-2019, 06:54 AM
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Has anyone done a side by side comparison of any of the following settings? Or better yet, any actual testing @Javs .

Pana 820 -> SDRBT2020, with SDR settings on NX7

Pana 820 -> HDRBT2020, with HDR(PQ) auto tone mapping on NX7

Pano 820 -> HDRBT2020, with gamma 2.2 and Pana_PQ_BL color profile NX7

They all look absolutely fantastic to me. Switching settings takes long enough that I can’t seem to pick up on any major differences. Love to hear any thoughts. Cheers!
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post #11290 of 17844 Old 05-11-2019, 07:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KarlKlammer View Post
I was hoping that maybe it was a temporary reduction just to play it save and get the units out. But I have a feeling that this will be the new normal in the end.
The RS4500/Z1 won't be an option for me. A friend has it. There are some things that don't convince me apart from price, size and noise.
Oh, you can't leave it at that... Do tell!
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post #11291 of 17844 Old 05-11-2019, 07:31 AM
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Alright guys I’ve been doing a lot of testing the last couple of days between the Oppo 203 and Panasonic UDB-820.

I still feel the Oppo has a little bit more detail. The Panasonic did have a cleaner look. First pictures are the Oppo the second is the Panasonic.

Oppo 203- Default settings
Panasonic UDB-820 - JVC Pana-Q-BL settings

Both paired with a JVC NX5 Projector. Either way you still get a great picture. Both players are excellent.
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post #11292 of 17844 Old 05-11-2019, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clark Burk View Post
It may be something random in occurrence that is not easily picked up in QC. If it’s temperature related it likely wouldn’t be seen at all. I doubt the QC process is more than 5 min which is unlikely to even warm the projector much.
You are right about that. There are a bunch of projectors to go thru. That takes time. For the amount of projectors out there and the amount of issues reported, it seems to be about normal from what I see. A 1 to 2% issue rate
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post #11293 of 17844 Old 05-11-2019, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by locutus2k View Post
Updating the firmware is not enough to get rid of the issue(s) you must do a full factory reset from the service menu, after the update, to be effective.
Yes l know. Here is the procedure if you guys may need it.

Please do the following to update:
Uncompress the file.
Copy the UAB_*** folder to root directory of a USB stick (FAT32 format).
Plug into the USB port on back of the projector, while it is running.
Go to the Function Menu in the OSD to load the software.
Update software. It will take about 25 minutes. Lights blink slow then go to a faster rate. Projector will turn off.
Turn projector back on.
Perform factory reset from service menu. OK-left-right-OK-Back-OK will get you into the service menu.

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post #11294 of 17844 Old 05-11-2019, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmonier View Post
From what I understand, you also have to do a "Factory Reset" after installing 2.05 to fix the problem. If you asked for 2.05 specifically to fix the vertical lines, they should have told you this. Have you done this?

(I'm not positive that the "Factory Reset" in the regular menu will do it. It's possible that it has to be done from the Service Menu. Ask whoever sent you 2.05.)
Yes I did.

Please do the following to update:
Uncompress the file.
Copy the UAB_*** folder to root directory of a USB stick (FAT32 format).
Plug into the USB port on back of the projector, while it is running.
Go to the Function Menu in the OSD to load the software.
Update software. It will take about 25 minutes. Lights blink slow then go to a faster rate. Projector will turn off.
Turn projector back on.
Perform factory reset from service menu. OK-left-right-OK-Back-OK will get you into the service menu.

Home Theater: Stewart -100” 4 Way Sreenwall Electric Masking, JVC-DLA-NX9 Tivo Vox, Oppo-UDP-205, Roku 4K Ultra, Apple TV 4K, Panasonic UB9000 , Marantz AV8802A-7.1 SSP, Ayre K5 MP Stereo Pre Amp, Clearaudio Concept Turntable, Schitt Audio Phono Pre Amp, Rotel RB-1070, Rotel RMB-1095, Rotel RB-933, Ayre-V5xe,Vandersteen-3A Signature-Front LR, Vandersteen-VCC-5-Center, Vandersteen-VSM-Surrounds and Atmos, Dual SVS PB16 Ultras Subwoofers.
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post #11295 of 17844 Old 05-11-2019, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by locutus2k View Post
My DI is silent i can't hear anything. BUT the projector in high lamp mode is VERY noisy. I doubt i can bear that noise for a whole movie i let him in low lamp. Is it normal?
Yes, I think it’s normal, I find it too loud to watch a movie in high lamp.
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post #11296 of 17844 Old 05-11-2019, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin Morgan View Post
If you're in the USA, Best Buy's Magnolia store-within-a-store currently carries them (SKU: 1626212), or you can find it online on BB's web site. They run out of stock from time to time, but seems like they have them in stock right now.
I went on line they do not
Delivery mid June
Any other suggestions
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post #11297 of 17844 Old 05-11-2019, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by WisconsinEric View Post
Anyone have a sense of how close JVC is to fulfilling RS2000 preorders? I was one of the last (if not THE last) to get my preorder placed back at the end of January.

Curious who else is still waiting and when you put in your preorder?

My wife has grown increasingly unhappy with our non-functional theater room over the past month and wants to cancel the preorder and go to our closest A/V shop and buy something decent and be done with it. I'd rather not go that route, but if we are still months out from receiving our preorder then I might pick up a cheaper option to temporarily appease my better half until the RS2000 comes in...
I placed my N7 order at the Big Box store at the start of January, received it two weeks ago. Worth the wait though, the projector is awesome. Giant step up from my X3!
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post #11298 of 17844 Old 05-11-2019, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by slots1 View Post
I went on line they do not
Delivery mid June
Any other suggestions
Best thing to do is contact your dealer, they will generally be able to ship right away (got mine in 2 days) and they are cheaper than that price.
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post #11299 of 17844 Old 05-11-2019, 11:15 AM
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Looking for advice. I have a JVC NX9 paird to my primary player which is an Oppo 205. As my secondary player I have an Oppo 203. I am looking to sell the 203 to mix things up a bit. I am looking at both the Panasonic UB9000 or the Pioneer LX500. Unfortunately I cant demo either in my areas so I am stuck reading reviews and pinging for input. Both have pros and cons. Since I have the Oppo the missing Panasonic DVD-A and SACD is not really a priority. Key is the best of the two for picture qty. I have read about the Panny Picture Optimizer, but it also looks like the Pioneer has good HDR to SDR conversion and picture features. What is the general consensus on this thread? Seems like the Panny, but wanted to get inputs form the peanut gallery. Please also indicate why so I can get educated along the way. I should say I am a bit Pioneer fan and have had a lot of their products including my pride and job HLD-X0 LD player that I will hold till i die even if I dont use it that much anymore....that said i want the best picture and am not wedded to Pioneer.

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post #11300 of 17844 Old 05-11-2019, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by JeffR1 View Post
If you like 24 frame per second content to look like it was filmed at 60 frames per second, then JVC's CMD, IMHO does a good job of it with out adding too many video artifacts when compared to Sony's smooth motion.
I won't list any of the video artifacts that may be introduced, if you don't see anything, then ignorance is bliss here.

Notice I did not use the term SOE (soap opera effect) as I don't consider that to be a video artifact, but a desired functionality of CMD.
Turning on CMD also changes the colour space from 4:4:4 to 4:2:2, so if you look at the QBF pattern, recorded at 4:4:4 it will not look right, but since UHD movies use a colour space of 4:2:0. it's not an issue.
Although according to Javs, he can see a difference.
However if you're gaming at 4:4:4 with CMD on, then you will see a decrease in the depth of colour.


I don't see any noticeable difference with the MPC controls either on my RS1000, so I leave them off, it was recommenced the least amount of processing the better.


Low latency mode is for gaming, if you're not gaming, leave it off.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
@Jue Liang

Thanks for taking the time to post your detailed impressions, and congratulations on your new toy

I would advise to set all MPC settings to 0, though you can set enhance (sharpness) to 1 or 2 if needed, but not above.

High res should be used with 4K/UHD content, standard otherwise.

I would leave CMD and motion enhance to off when watching movie content due to the artifacts they can cause. You can use CMD for fast TV sports if you like the difference.

Setting Low latency shouldn't make any difference on latency, as it is reported to be around 40ms in both cases, but it ensures that you don't have CMD on, which is a good thing.

The HDMI sync times are pretty good with theses models (around 5 secs, no more than my 4K LG monitor). What you are experiencing when switching from your SDR (iris closed, no filter) to HDR (iris open, wide gamut filter) is the added time needed to open/close the iris and to switch the filter in/out of the path.

You can improve this by using the HDR mode (BT2020, no filter) instead of the BT2020 mode (BT2020, filter). This will give you additional brightness, and you won't need to swap the filter on/off every time you swap between SDR and HDR. With a good calibration (i.e. good saturation tracking), you shouldn't lose too much color with most content. Maybe you're already using this.

Otherwise you would need to have identical or similar iris settings to save more time.

When the iris setting is the same and the filter mode is the same, your sync times should be around 5 secs, which is a significant improvement over the previous models (my rs500 needed 15-20 secs!).

You'll find lots of calibration and settings tips in the new calibration thread for these models (google the first line of my sig).
Thank you for your comments.

I am not using the P3 filter. The sync time is much shorter when there is no iris change, but still longer than Sony. With iris change, say from SDR (iris at -9) to HDR (iris at 0), it takes 10 sec or so.

I will follow that calibration thread. It should be very helpful.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Colozeus View Post
@Jue Liang welcome to the noisy DI club. See my earlier post, i think this will be the norm for the rs3000.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLCPhoto View Post
I'm not sure this particular noise that you're hearing is a noisy iris. The fact that the screen is black while this is happening would suggest that an HDMI handshake is taking place.

I have the RS400, with much longer handshake times, but depending on which modes it is changing to or from, while the screen is black I'll hear a soft 'chattering' type sound which lasts a few seconds. I have heard others report this as well, and it seems to be something occurring in the projector as part of its changing the video mode it is using to display HDR, or changing back to SDR after displaying SDR.

I never hear this sound during actual content. During quiet scenes, when there is major action of the dynamic iris during a fade to black, or coming back after a fade to black, I have *never* heard this chattering sound, or any other sound actually.

So the point I'm raising is to try and clarify whether this particular noise, that you hear apparently during an HDMI handshake since the screen is black, represents a noisy iris, or is simply a normal part of the projector's changing video mode. If that is the case, then you may not have the 'noisy iris' issue, unless you're hearing the same thing while content is actively being played, that is not during a change in video mode.

ETA:
One way to test this is to turn off the dynamic iris, i.e. just leave it in manual (for all content, all user profiles that you might be using, so the iris wouldn't be changing at all), and then see if you hear this same noise at the same times. If this is a function of the HDMI handshake itself, you'll still hear that sound.
Thank you for your suggestion. I am 100% sure it is DI noise. I might have not explained it well. When I choose a video in youtube/prime, it is not a complete black scene, there is a spinning circle indicating the player is loading the video. So there is something being displayed, and the projector is not changing display mode. It is definitely not a handshaking issue. In this scenario (no soundtrack, picture transitioning to almost black), I can clearly hear the DI working noise.

To make it clear, I uploaded two videos to show the DI noise. You will need to turn up the volume to hear it because the mic in my cell phone is not sensitive.

In the first video, I was displaying a dark background, turning on and off the menu to change the ADL to make the DI working.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ix_...ew?usp=sharing


In the second video, I was playing the lion king trailer, with the sound muted. There are a lot black scenes inserted in this trailer, so the DI was working hard.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rvK...ew?usp=sharing



I also uploaded two videos to show the video noise with and without eshift. Can anyone tell me if the video noise is normal even without using eshift?
You will need to choose 1080P in the setting to see the video noise. Even at 1080P, the google drive compressed the video, so the video noise is not as visible as seeing it in person.
No eshift:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/15D4...ew?usp=sharing

With eshift:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TNR...ew?usp=sharing



To clarify it again, the DI noise is not audible when there is a soundtrack, and the video noise is not visible at normal viewing distance.
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post #11301 of 17844 Old 05-11-2019, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Jue Liang View Post
Thank you for your suggestion. I am 100% sure it is DI noise. I might have not explained it well. When I choose a video in youtube/prime, it is not a complete black scene, there is a spinning circle indicating the player is loading the video. So there is something being displayed, and the projector is not changing display mode. It is definitely not a handshaking issue. In this scenario (no soundtrack, picture transitioning to almost black), I can clearly hear the DI working noise.

To make it clear, I uploaded two videos to show the DI noise. You will need to turn up the volume to hear it because the mic in my cell phone is not sensitive.

In the first video, I was displaying a dark background, turning on and off the menu to change the ADL to make the DI working.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ix_...ew?usp=sharing


In the second video, I was playing the lion king trailer, with the sound muted. There are a lot black scenes inserted in this trailer, so the DI was working hard.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rvK...ew?usp=sharing

I also uploaded two videos to show the video noise with and without eshift. Can anyone tell me if the video noise is normal even without using eshift?
You will need to choose 1080P in the setting to see the video noise. Even at 1080P, the google drive compressed the video, so the video noise is not as visible as seeing it in person.
No eshift:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/15D4...ew?usp=sharing

With eshift:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TNR...ew?usp=sharing
Yeah, listening to and watching those videos, that is not the 'chattering' noise I hear during HDMI handshake. So unfortunately, you're correct that it seems almost certain to be DI noise.

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post #11302 of 17844 Old 05-11-2019, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim Parys View Post
Looking for advice. I have a JVC NX9 paird to my primary player which is an Oppo 205. As my secondary player I have an Oppo 203. I am looking to sell the 203 to mix things up a bit. I am looking at both the Panasonic UB9000 or the Pioneer LX500. Unfortunately I cant demo either in my areas so I am stuck reading reviews and pinging for input. Both have pros and cons. Since I have the Oppo the missing Panasonic DVD-A and SACD is not really a priority. Key is the best of the two for picture qty. I have read about the Panny Picture Optimizer, but it also looks like the Pioneer has good HDR to SDR conversion and picture features. What is the general consensus on this thread? Seems like the Panny, but wanted to get inputs form the peanut gallery. Please also indicate why so I can get educated along the way. I should say I am a bit Pioneer fan and have had a lot of their products including my pride and job HLD-X0 LD player that I will hold till i die even if I dont use it that much anymore....that said i want the best picture and am not wedded to Pioneer.

I don't know the Pioneer, but i have a Pana 9000. The Panasonic is really very good in handling HDR. PQ is very good but i find it is less sharp than the Oppo (which i have, too). 4K scaling of 1080 material is top notch in the Panasonic, maybe better than the Oppo. The big downside of the Pansonic is his really poor network playing: this player is only good for discs, on files has a lot of limitation.
For viewing 4K material i use more the Oppo than the Panasonic (i like sharp fine details and Oppo beat the Pana), unless hdr is very dark or miss metadata, so the Pana is the best choice.
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post #11303 of 17844 Old 05-11-2019, 12:54 PM
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Anyone have a sense of how close JVC is to fulfilling RS2000 preorders? I was one of the last (if not THE last) to get my preorder placed back at the end of January.

Curious who else is still waiting and when you put in your preorder?

My wife has grown increasingly unhappy with our non-functional theater room over the past month and wants to cancel the preorder and go to our closest A/V shop and buy something decent and be done with it. I'd rather not go that route, but if we are still months out from receiving our preorder then I might pick up a cheaper option to temporarily appease my better half until the RS2000 comes in...
Your guess is as good as anyone's.......They will come, just a matter of when.
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post #11304 of 17844 Old 05-11-2019, 04:08 PM
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My DI also chatters during syncing.


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post #11305 of 17844 Old 05-11-2019, 04:28 PM
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My DI also chatters during syncing.


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same here.

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post #11306 of 17844 Old 05-11-2019, 04:59 PM
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Hi all.

Today unfortunately I woke up with an issue on my NX-7. After using it with no problem last night and shutting it down normally, I turned it on this morning - got to the D-ILA logo screen then hear the iris adjust as per normal, then it seems to go into some kind of waiting mode and does nothing (blank screen). No blue screen which I normally get if no signal, no access to menu, nothing. It's on though, I can hear the lamp and I can see the iris open slightly with a light. I got hubby to fiddle with the HDMI cable at the back (as I can't reach) but that didn't help. At first I had the receiver and nVidia Shield on too as that's what I was trying to use, but then just turned all that off and only focused on projector turning on - same problem.

I've tried 3 or 4 times and it does the same thing and I can't access any menu.

Any ideas what I can try??

I have to head out to Mother's Day lunch in a couple of hours but I'd appreciated any suggestions for when I get home
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post #11307 of 17844 Old 05-11-2019, 05:06 PM
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Hi all.

Today unfortunately I woke up with an issue on my NX-7. After using it with no problem last night and shutting it down normally, I turned it on this morning - got to the D-ILA logo screen then hear the iris adjust as per normal, then it seems to go into some kind of waiting mode and does nothing (blank screen). No blue screen which I normally get if no signal, no access to menu, nothing. It's on though, I can hear the lamp and I can see the iris open slightly with a light. I got hubby to fiddle with the HDMI cable at the back (as I can't reach) but that didn't help. At first I had the receiver and nVidia Shield on too as that's what I was trying to use, but then just turned all that off and only focused on projector turning on - same problem.
(
Crisis averted. I searched here and found a suggestion to turn off at power point for a bit then turn on. It's now working.

Way to give me a heart attack on Mother's Day!
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post #11308 of 17844 Old 05-11-2019, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by cindernat View Post
Hi all.

Today unfortunately I woke up with an issue on my NX-7. After using it with no problem last night and shutting it down normally, I turned it on this morning - got to the D-ILA logo screen then hear the iris adjust as per normal, then it seems to go into some kind of waiting mode and does nothing (blank screen). No blue screen which I normally get if no signal, no access to menu, nothing. It's on though, I can hear the lamp and I can see the iris open slightly with a light. I got hubby to fiddle with the HDMI cable at the back (as I can't reach) but that didn't help. At first I had the receiver and nVidia Shield on too as that's what I was trying to use, but then just turned all that off and only focused on projector turning on - same problem.

I've tried 3 or 4 times and it does the same thing and I can't access any menu.

Any ideas what I can try??

I have to head out to Mother's Day lunch in a couple of hours but I'd appreciated any suggestions for when I get home
Natellie,

Power on the PJ...wait 2-3min then hold down the "Power" button on the rear panel till the PJ goes into a controlled shutdown. Then try powering it on again as per normal BUT with ALL HDMI input cables unplugged.
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post #11309 of 17844 Old 05-11-2019, 05:13 PM
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I bought one of the lux measurement meters everyone recommends here on amazon. What is the correct procedure to measure nits? Pull a full white background and place the sensor at the screen aimed towards the pj lens? Then convert lux to bits?


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post #11310 of 17844 Old 05-11-2019, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by locutus2k View Post
My DI is silent i can't hear anything. BUT the projector in high lamp mode is VERY noisy. I doubt i can bear that noise for a whole movie i let him in low lamp. Is it normal?
Yes, high lamp on all JVCs I have owned has really loud noise, that's why I never use it
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