Official JVC RS3000/NX9 - JVC RS2000/NX7/N7 - JVC RS1000/NX5/N5 - Owners Thread - Page 378 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #11311 of 17938 Old 05-11-2019, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by woofer View Post
Natellie,



Power on the PJ...wait 2-3min then hold down the "Power" button on the rear panel till the PJ goes into a controlled shutdown. Then try powering it on again as per normal BUT with ALL HDMI input cables unplugged.


Hey Woofer should that be normal shut down and start up sequence or just when you encounter an issue like this?


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post #11312 of 17938 Old 05-11-2019, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
I'd definitely get the iris set to 0 for HDR and then up the tone map slider as needed after.
Yes, that's what I did and it looks good. Some have suggested turning down the brightness control for the picture mode down a couple of notches to -3. What exactly does this accomplish? Lower the black floor? Appreciate your input.
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post #11313 of 17938 Old 05-11-2019, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Th601 View Post
Hey Woofer should that be normal shut down and start up sequence or just when you encounter an issue like this?


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Only if you get a 'lockup" or such...
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post #11314 of 17938 Old 05-11-2019, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by woofer View Post
Only if you get a 'lockup" or such...


Ok good deal. Thank you.


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post #11315 of 17938 Old 05-11-2019, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by jpiddy View Post
Has anyone done a side by side comparison of any of the following settings? Or better yet, any actual testing @Javs .

Pana 820 -> SDRBT2020, with SDR settings on NX7

Pana 820 -> HDRBT2020, with HDR(PQ) auto tone mapping on NX7

Pano 820 -> HDRBT2020, with gamma 2.2 and Pana_PQ_BL color profile NX7

They all look absolutely fantastic to me. Switching settings takes long enough that I can’t seem to pick up on any major differences. Love to hear any thoughts. Cheers!
Many people favor the second option, which is what I am using. I agree it is very hard to do any comparisons and all three settings are similar. Not sure if anyone has done an objective comparison.
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post #11316 of 17938 Old 05-11-2019, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by woofer View Post
Only if you get a 'lockup" or such...
Thanks Woofer, I will remember that if it does it again.

Phew!
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post #11317 of 17938 Old 05-11-2019, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by gravi View Post
Many people favor the second option, which is what I am using. I agree it is very hard to do any comparisons and all three settings are similar. Not sure if anyone has done an objective comparison.


With the 2nd option the tone mapping in the player would be disabled and the tone mapping on the projector would be enabled correct?


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post #11318 of 17938 Old 05-11-2019, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Th601 View Post
With the 2nd option the tone mapping in the player would be disabled and the tone mapping on the projector would be enabled correct?


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You actually set the player to "Basic Luminance Projector/LCD" which tone maps to a base 500 nits. Then the projector takes that signal and tone maps it further. You can control the mapping using either the "HDR Options" on the Panasonic or the tone map slider on the JVC, both should achieve pretty much the same results.
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post #11319 of 17938 Old 05-11-2019, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DVD MAN View Post
Yes I did.

Please do the following to update:
Uncompress the file.
Copy the UAB_*** folder to root directory of a USB stick (FAT32 format).
Plug into the USB port on back of the projector, while it is running.
Go to the Function Menu in the OSD to load the software.
Update software. It will take about 25 minutes. Lights blink slow then go to a faster rate. Projector will turn off.
Turn projector back on.
Perform factory reset from service menu. OK-left-right-OK-Back-OK will get you into the service menu.
I also did the factor reset and 15 hours later the blue bars popped back up. It seems to be completely random as i have 110 hours on the bulb, but the problem didn't manifest itself until about the 80 hour mark.

I hope this is fixable thru a post 2.05 update
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post #11320 of 17938 Old 05-11-2019, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colozeus View Post
I bought one of the lux measurement meters everyone recommends here on amazon. What is the correct procedure to measure nits? Pull a full white background and place the sensor at the screen aimed towards the pj lens? Then convert lux to bits?


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Thats my method.

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post #11321 of 17938 Old 05-11-2019, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gravi View Post
Yes, high lamp on all JVCs I have owned has really loud noise, that's why I never use it


So what settings do you use to watch 4K but not 4K HDR (as HDR will kick the projector into high lamp)?


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post #11322 of 17938 Old 05-11-2019, 11:01 PM
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On the RS3000, if you use the THX picture mode, it defaults to a gamma of THX. You can't change it for this mode.

Does anyone know what gamma THX mode is using? If you run autocal to correct gamma with this setting will it screw up THX mode?
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post #11323 of 17938 Old 05-11-2019, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
@Jue Liang







I would leave CMD and motion enhance to off when watching movie content due to the artifacts they can cause. You can use CMD for fast TV sports if you like the difference.



Wondering what artifacts are you noticing with CMD on?

On my NX7 I have it on to Low and the image looks pretty good.





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post #11324 of 17938 Old 05-11-2019, 11:22 PM
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What is the recommended temperature settings ? I read that 6500K is standard but I find 5500K a tad brighter and warmer, I like High Bright too but that puts a little bit of green tint to the image.
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post #11325 of 17938 Old 05-12-2019, 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by bobof View Post
Oh, you can't leave it at that... Do tell!
Nah, I can't do that. This model is so popular over here.
But there are only a handful of units in the wild in my country. And when I write about it, it will give conclusions on the owner.
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VP/Calibration: Lumagen Radiance Pro, LightSpace CMS, x-rite i1 Pro 2, x-rite i1 Display 3

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post #11326 of 17938 Old 05-12-2019, 02:40 AM
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Originally Posted by tommarra View Post
Wondering what artifacts are you noticing with CMD on?

On my NX7 I have it on to Low and the image looks pretty good.

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Minor SOE and occasional minor posterization. But it's a taste thing. If you like the picture with CMD on low, have the picture with CMD on low.

It does help with motion on slow pans and with resolution on fast action, but I find motion with CMD off good enough to not add any SOE (which I really can't stand with films).

I do use CMD on low when I watch sports TV.

It's your PJ, use the settings that give you the best compromise to your eyes
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post #11327 of 17938 Old 05-12-2019, 06:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dandlj View Post
So what settings do you use to watch 4K but not 4K HDR (as HDR will kick the projector into high lamp)?
Any player that tone maps HDR to tone mapped SDR will send 4K but not HDR. HTPC can do this as well (this is my only way of connecting).
HDR does not require the projector to be in high lamp. The HDR setting may be currently set to go to high lamp, but if you change that to low lamp, then it will stay that way instead.


Quote:
Originally Posted by abinav555 View Post
What is the recommended temperature settings ? I read that 6500K is standard but I find 5500K a tad brighter and warmer, I like High Bright too but that puts a little bit of green tint to the image.
High bright is basically an uncalibrated setting where color profiles are disabled. I think 6500k generally is what you want not 5500k but use whatever makes you happy even if its not accurate.

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post #11328 of 17938 Old 05-12-2019, 08:23 AM
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@Manni01 and @markmon1

You guys are MadVR experts - so a question for you:
For HDR tonemapping, in the Maximal Target Nits box, is there a guidance for what to use for projectors?

I tried using NeoXP's settings and set that to 10000, but the image was too dark. As i lower it the image keeps getting brighter, but i have not yet figured out what is an optimal point for it.

Is there a guidance for what to shoot for? I get ~80 nits on my screen in high lamp - if that helps.

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post #11329 of 17938 Old 05-12-2019, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommarra View Post
@Manni01 and @markmon1



You guys are MadVR experts - so a question for you:

For HDR tonemapping, in the Maximal Target Nits box, is there a guidance for what to use for projectors?



I tried using NeoXP's settings and set that to 10000, but the image was too dark. As i lower it the image keeps getting brighter, but i have not yet figured out what is an optimal point for it.



Is there a guidance for what to shoot for? I get ~80 nits on my screen in high lamp - if that helps.


Go ask in the madvr player support thread. :-)


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post #11330 of 17938 Old 05-12-2019, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Colozeus View Post
Go ask in the madvr player support thread. :-)


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I specifically asked over here because it pertains to the NX7 as well - I am sure there are others who run MadVR and the new JVC projectors.

This way if another owner has a similar question then a quick search on this forum will answer the question.
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Gear: Fronts: B&W 803D3 | Center: B&W HTM2D3 | Surrounds: B&W 705S2 | Backs: B&W DM601S3 | Heights: Definitive Techonlogy ProCinema 1000 | Receiver & Amps: Anthem MRX 720 + Emotiva BasX-5 | Projector: JVC NX7 | Source: HTPC with Nvidia 2070, Kodi + External Player: MPC-HC with MadVR (for Blu-ray rips), Nvidia Shield (for streaming content)
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post #11331 of 17938 Old 05-12-2019, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommarra View Post
@Manni01 and @markmon1

You guys are MadVR experts - so a question for you:
For HDR tonemapping, in the Maximal Target Nits box, is there a guidance for what to use for projectors?

I tried using NeoXP's settings and set that to 10000, but the image was too dark. As i lower it the image keeps getting brighter, but i have not yet figured out what is an optimal point for it.

Is there a guidance for what to shoot for? I get ~80 nits on my screen in high lamp - if that helps.
I'll post a guide when the next public madVR build is released. Everything is changing too quickly for now. I'll post my own settings in the madVR experimental thread soon (85nits at the moment), hopefully tonight. Off topic here.
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post #11332 of 17938 Old 05-12-2019, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
I'll post a guide when the next public madVR build is released. Everything is changing too quickly for now. I'll post my own settings in the madVR experimental thread soon (85nits at the moment), hopefully tonight. Off topic here.


Thank you!


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post #11333 of 17938 Old 05-12-2019, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
I'll post a guide when the next public madVR build is released. Everything is changing too quickly for now. I'll post my own settings in the madVR experimental thread soon (85nits at the moment), hopefully tonight. Off topic here.
I thought you were running much brighter than that?
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post #11334 of 17938 Old 05-12-2019, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by bobof View Post
I thought you were running much brighter than that?
I used to but I'm experimenting with the DI and find that -8 is the soft spot to get rid of 90% of the DI artifacts (both yellowing and blooming) in my setup. I'm not 100% decided, but at the moment that's what I'm running.

I might go back to iris open, no DI and 120nits.
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post #11335 of 17938 Old 05-12-2019, 01:01 PM
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Checking in again on my issue: 4K HDMI over CAT6 (or any other solution)

Running sources through my Marantz AV Pre. Initially tried Monoprice Blackbird to send signal over CAT6. Was ok on HD content with some lock issues. On 4K content, no signal whatsoever. I tested the same setup HD source/AV pre to 4K TV using the Blackbird and got a perfect picture. Seems the JVC is more sensitive. One poster suggested a $1000 box solution but trying to not throw money at the problem unless it's the only solution.

What is everyone else using to connect their projectors over long distances? Any help appreciated.
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post #11336 of 17938 Old 05-12-2019, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris F. V2 View Post
What is everyone else using to connect their projectors over long distances? Any help appreciated.
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=21568

Many also use the Ruipro Fiber HDMI cable that is available on amazon.
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post #11337 of 17938 Old 05-12-2019, 01:54 PM
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post #11338 of 17938 Old 05-12-2019, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
I used to but I'm experimenting with the DI and find that -8 is the soft spot to get rid of 90% of the DI artifacts (both yellowing and blooming) in my setup. I'm not 100% decided, but at the moment that's what I'm running.

I might go back to iris open, no DI and 120nits.
You're lucky to be able to get that bright with the iris so closed... The constant battle we face between light and dark for HDR.
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post #11339 of 17938 Old 05-12-2019, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by smitty View Post
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=21568

Many also use the Ruipro Fiber HDMI cable that is available on amazon.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post
Yep, I use the Ruipro, no issues
Thank you both!

More troubleshooting today isolated the issue to the Marantz AV7705. So frustrated. Going to reach out to Marantz and JVC tech support since the same path ways work fine if:
- I connect to my Sony 4k TV
- If I connect the sources directly to HDMI over CAT6.

Will order one of the Fiber HDMI's to see if it solves the problem.
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post #11340 of 17938 Old 05-12-2019, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
I used to but I'm experimenting with the DI and find that -8 is the soft spot to get rid of 90% of the DI artifacts (both yellowing and blooming) in my setup. I'm not 100% decided, but at the moment that's what I'm running.



I might go back to iris open, no DI and 120nits.


What is the benefit to more nits on screen with open iris if it also raises the black floor? Brighter highlights, I assume, but at the cost of raised blacks and reduced contrast. It seems like a properly tone mapped source would benefit most from higher contrast. Seems like most calibrates/pros on the forum recommend open iris or max light output for HDR so I’m sure that I’m missing something.
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