Official JVC RS3000/NX9 - JVC RS2000/NX7/N7 - JVC RS1000/NX5/N5 - Owners Thread - Page 420 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #12571 of 19439 Old 06-09-2019, 09:13 AM
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Official JVC RS3000/NX9 - JVC RS2000/NX7/N7 - JVC RS1000/NX5/N5 - Owners Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
Mike seems to be convinced only 2% of the projectors suffer from this - so you'd be at a 98% chance to get one that didn't have this issue. Personally, I think that 2% is pure BS and probably more like 20% or perhaps all the projectors will see this problem and those that haven't seen it just haven't seen it "yet".


You might be right but I don’t think you are. There a number of people including me who don’t have this issue and I have more than 350 hours now. Also how do we know it’s a HDMI issue?

The only issue I have is the DI - but other than that the protectors are perfect... for me at least


I had said this in the past but I think this is an owners thread and while it’s great for experienced people to help, making recommendations should be left to people who actually have spent several thousands on these projectors or have spend several hours using the projector.

There are a lot of opinions out there but only owners can provide semblance of facts and ‘informed’ opinions.

No offense to anyone, but we know internet and especially this thread does tend to blow things way out of proportion






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post #12572 of 19439 Old 06-09-2019, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docrog View Post
While it's true that applying a custom curve (such as the Panasonic/JVC curves for the UB820/9000) is "layered" on top of the 350/500 nit tone mapping provided by the UHD player, this appears to be a fixed curve with no changes in the JVC's tone slider controls, irrespective of the nit of the readings obtained from the source material. In contrast to that fixed curve, the JVC's Auto Tone mapping feature is seen to alter the tone mapping sliders based on the input nit of HDR material (UHD disc or streaming content). This is why I've referred to this specific treatment as "double tone mapping" which is more "automatically" applied (based on content) and which I find to be subjectively preferable in my HT. Am I incorrect in this "fixed" versus "variable" second layer of manipulation?
It is true that by selecting a color profile that is meant for the Panasonic, you are using a fixed curve. But this means that you have to adjust the slider in the Panasonic based on the dynamic range needed for the content as the Panasonic does not adjust its overall range on a title by title basis, it simply changes the tone map to the MaxCLL (if present). If you instead select the Auto tone mapping in the JVC and leave the Panasonic alone, the JVC will always map appropriately to the MaxCLL that is fixed from the Panasonic, but it will also adjust its overall range based on the changing MaxFALL data (again, if present). So now you have two dynamic features (MaxCLL and MaxFALL) at work. This tends to give the best results overall of the two options.
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post #12573 of 19439 Old 06-09-2019, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
It doesn't with a HD Fury Vertex or Maestro

I switch automatically between my SDR Rec-709 (film), SDR Rec-709 (HDTV), SDR BT2020, SDR DCI-P3, 3D, HDR10 and HLG calibrations.

Hopefully one day the JVCs will be able to do this as well. Only switching between HDR10 and SDR rec-709 isn't enough.




Yes... and no. see my post here.
Nice. Maybe at some point I will try one of those, but I typically don't like more boxes in my HDMI path.

I talked with the JVC engineers when I was in SoCal for a calibration tour and talked to them specifically about expanding the picture mode options so defaults can be set based on the input signal.

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post #12574 of 19439 Old 06-09-2019, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgrizzard View Post
Oh I have a double walled theater plan done in an extra space we have, but I doubt I will be allowed to do it. The nice thing is my wife really isn't in love with where we are now so moving shouldn't be a problem. It will just need to wait a few years. Then I will do a full theater build.
Some guys like to suprise there wife and when they are away they build her a home theater room, that out of the question?

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It is true that by selecting a color profile that is meant for the Panasonic, you are using a fixed curve.
If you had limited funds would you buy the Panasonic or do a calibration?
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post #12575 of 19439 Old 06-09-2019, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by dgrizzard View Post
Oh I have a double walled theater plan done in an extra space we have, but I doubt I will be allowed to do it. The nice thing is my wife really isn't in love with where we are now so moving shouldn't be a problem. It will just need to wait a few years. Then I will do a full theater build.
Some guys like to suprise there wife and when they are away they build her a home theater room, that out of the question?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris Deering View Post
It is true that by selecting a color profile that is meant for the Panasonic, you are using a fixed curve.
If you had limited funds would you buy the Panasonic or do a calibration?
Depends on which display they are using. If you are talking about the newer JVC models, I’d lean toward the calibration as the auto tone map does such a good job on its own.

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post #12576 of 19439 Old 06-09-2019, 11:00 AM
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While it seems difficult to conclude one way or another based on reports here whether all units are susceptible to the vertical stripes problem(s), from my experience it seems clear that there is at least very wide variation in individual units' likelihood of encountering it, independent of other variables:

It's been a while since I've caught up on this thread, but I'm happy to report (knock on wood) that my replacement RS1000 has still not had a single recurrence of the vertical stripes with almost 200 hours now. With my first RS1000, I got it to happen about a dozen times in less than a week. Both units reported/report having firmware 2.04, and I haven't tried to upgrade the replacement's firmware yet (no compelling reason). Same settings, same input sources, same cables, same ceiling mount and power, still watching lots of white-on-black closing credits which seemed most prone to trigger the problem with my first unit.

I wish that JVC could be more forthcoming about the current status of their root cause analysis, but I understand that such openness is uncommon and challenging for consumer electronics from a large company.
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post #12577 of 19439 Old 06-09-2019, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjones View Post
While it seems difficult to conclude one way or another based on reports here whether all units are susceptible to the vertical stripes problem(s), from my experience it seems clear that there is at least very wide variation in individual units' likelihood of encountering it, independent of other variables:

It's been a while since I've caught up on this thread, but I'm happy to report (knock on wood) that my replacement RS1000 has still not had a single recurrence of the vertical stripes with almost 200 hours now. With my first RS1000, I got it to happen about a dozen times in less than a week. Both units reported/report having firmware 2.04, and I haven't tried to upgrade the replacement's firmware yet (no compelling reason). Same settings, same input sources, same cables, same ceiling mount and power, still watching lots of white-on-black closing credits which seemed most prone to trigger the problem with my first unit.

I wish that JVC could be more forthcoming about the current status of their root cause analysis, but I understand that such openness is uncommon and challenging for consumer electronics from a large company.
This is why I think it is a bad resistor, but who knows for sure. If this is true, it surely doesn't sound like software, otherwise different units would have the same frequency of the issue with the same firmware.

If someone was holding a gun to my head, I'm guessing bad resistor. Could be some other faulty chip or signal converter chip, but it sounds more rudimentary and more like a bad batch of resistors because it's more likely for it to cause the same type of problem across multiple units. It literally sounds like the voltage is going out of phase and is unable to be interpreted by the encoder/decoder that the video processor accesses, it's basically like a corrupt file that has no crc check, but it's in the digitally encoded HDMI signal.

If it were a different type of faulty chip, it's more likely the problem would be more random, possibly showing vertical lines at times, but you might get things like lockups without lines, or frozen menus, etc...

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post #12578 of 19439 Old 06-09-2019, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris Deering View Post
Nice. Maybe at some point I will try one of those, but I typically don't like more boxes in my HDMI path.
Since you have a Radiance, if you have two HDMI going to the projector (or want to pull the RS232 there) you can put the HDFury device on a second video out (9GHz is fine as it is ok if the video is downsampled on that output to 4:2:0) and leave the output side disconnected. This is how I had the Vertex setup with my RS600, as I had occasional hiccups with it inline - though that was with early firmware, I haven't upgraded the Vertex since ~ December 2017. With the HDR flag for DTM output I've not set it up with the RS3000 yet, but eventually plan to use it to auto switch modes for 3D like Manni. Let me know if you want to borrow it to try it.
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post #12579 of 19439 Old 06-09-2019, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris Deering View Post
It is true that by selecting a color profile that is meant for the Panasonic, you are using a fixed curve. But this means that you have to adjust the slider in the Panasonic based on the dynamic range needed for the content as the Panasonic does not adjust its overall range on a title by title basis, it simply changes the tone map to the MaxCLL (if present). If you instead select the Auto tone mapping in the JVC and leave the Panasonic alone, the JVC will always map appropriately to the MaxCLL that is fixed from the Panasonic, but it will also adjust its overall range based on the changing MaxFALL data (again, if present). So now you have two dynamic features (MaxCLL and MaxFALL) at work. This tends to give the best results overall of the two options.
Am I deceiving myself when I find that the HDR presentation is superior in my HT by leaving the UB820's Optimizer at +4 and the overall slider for JVC Auto Tone Mapping at +3? It's an easy task to observe the different combination of tone values that the JVC creates based on the fixed MaxCLL of 500 nit and varying (content related) MaxFALL nit and I've found that the HDR results are far more plug & play with both devices enabled.

Here's a comparison of values for Netflix's "Altered Carbon" with various combinations on my UB820/NX7 and ATV4K for comparison:

(MaxCLL/ MaxFALL/ Picture Tone/ Dark Level/ Bright Level)
Optimizer enabled/Auto Tone (500/ 356/ 3/ 0/ 6)
Optimizer OFF/Auto Tone (1149/ 356/ 2/ 0/ 0)
Optimizer enabled/Panasonic HL curve (500/ 356/ 4/ 0/ 0)
Optimizer OFF/Panasonic HL curve (1149/ 356/ 4/ 0/ 0)
ATV4K/Auto Tone (10000/ 2496/ 0/ 0/ 0) Image far too dark

Similar observations are apparent with HDR on a UHD disc ("The Shallows"):

Optimizer enabled/Auto Tone (500/400/3/0/6)
Optimizer OFF/Auto Tone (1933/709/0/0/0)
Optimizer enabled/Panasonic HL curve (500/400/4/0/0)
Optimizer OFF/Panasonic HL curve (1933/709/4/0/0)

It seems obvious that there's no difference in the slider controls when using the Panasonic custom curve, irrespective of the state of the Optimizer, but there is a difference in these sliders for Auto Tone mapping which varies with the MaxCLL. Several months ago there was a brief back-and-forth conversation (either on this thread or the UB820/9000 owners' thread) regarding whether it or not was advantageous to provide the JVC with a lower MaxCLL for the purpose of utilizing Auto Tone mapping. Is this advantage apparent with the different JVC slider controls seen with both devices' tone mapping enabled?

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post #12580 of 19439 Old 06-09-2019, 11:42 AM
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Finally a great NX7

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post
There are some people in the home theater builds who add on space/find space to there house for their theater

I wish more people would post who do not have issues, its always nice to see I always wondered wonder why bad news travels faster.

Purple Doughnut dude here. After replacing my first NX7 because of the doughnut and receiving one that started at 6 minutes and 9 seconds to the D-ILA logo, I sent my unit in to my dealer and JVC did a FW update to 2.05 from 2.01 and did a "reflashing" of my unit. It has been perfect so far. Not even yellowing effect. I'm at 59 hours on my bonus lamp. My previous lamp had 425 hours on it. Funny how reading these posts about the blue and green bars has me thinking every time I start her up that I will get the dreaded blue/green lines. Besides those haunting thoughts, I'm enjoying the hell out of my NX7.

Last edited by Renerator; 06-09-2019 at 11:52 AM. Reason: Left out a line
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post #12581 of 19439 Old 06-09-2019, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris Deering View Post
It is true that by selecting a color profile that is meant for the Panasonic, you are using a fixed curve. But this means that you have to adjust the slider in the Panasonic based on the dynamic range needed for the content as the Panasonic does not adjust its overall range on a title by title basis, it simply changes the tone map to the MaxCLL (if present). If you instead select the Auto tone mapping in the JVC and leave the Panasonic alone, the JVC will always map appropriately to the MaxCLL that is fixed from the Panasonic, but it will also adjust its overall range based on the changing MaxFALL data (again, if present). So now you have two dynamic features (MaxCLL and MaxFALL) at work. This tends to give the best results overall of the two options.
Good explanation. How would you suggest adjusting for titles where both are not reported, for example Marvel releases? Just use the JVC slider?
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post #12582 of 19439 Old 06-09-2019, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommarra View Post
You might be right but I don’t think you are. There a number of people including me who don’t have this issue and I have more than 350 hours now. Also how do we know it’s a HDMI issue?

The only issue I have is the DI - but other than that the protectors are perfect... for me at least


I had said this in the past but I think this is an owners thread and while it’s great for experienced people to help, making recommendations should be left to people who actually have spent several thousands on these projectors or have spend several hours using the projector.

There are a lot of opinions out there but only owners can provide semblance of facts and ‘informed’ opinions.

No offense to anyone, but we know internet and especially this thread does tend to blow things way out of proportion






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If I experience the bars every hundred hours and have to turn it off and on I am ok with that.
If it happened every hour no way.
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post #12583 of 19439 Old 06-09-2019, 04:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris Deering View Post
It is true that by selecting a color profile that is meant for the Panasonic, you are using a fixed curve. But this means that you have to adjust the slider in the Panasonic based on the dynamic range needed for the content as the Panasonic does not adjust its overall range on a title by title basis, it simply changes the tone map to the MaxCLL (if present). If you instead select the Auto tone mapping in the JVC and leave the Panasonic alone, the JVC will always map appropriately to the MaxCLL that is fixed from the Panasonic, but it will also adjust its overall range based on the changing MaxFALL data (again, if present). So now you have two dynamic features (MaxCLL and MaxFALL) at work. This tends to give the best results overall of the two options.
Isn't this last sentence only relevant/applicable to those individuals who also make use of an external device such as madVR, Lumagen or other video renderer? For those who send directly to the JVC from the UB820/9000, there's only an initial (static) MaxFALL value where provided. I think that latter configuration pertains to a much larger majority of owners of the UB820/9000, so it might be extremely helpful to read your recommendation for optimizing HDR (not SDR BT2020) with the more plain vanilla Panasonic/JVC video chain. Thanks!

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post #12584 of 19439 Old 06-09-2019, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
If it were me, I'd hold off on calibration and get that thing on 2.07 FW then test it at least another 100 hours to see if it's fixed. If it happens again I'd be demanding a projector swap. I only suggest swapping since Mike seems to be convinced only 2% of the projectors suffer from this - so you'd be at a 98% chance to get one that didn't have this issue. Personally, I think that 2% is pure BS and probably more like 20% or perhaps all the projectors will see this problem and those that haven't seen it just haven't seen it "yet". I guess we will see who's right over time. I hope it's not me. If all projectors arent afflicted by this, then it's at least a problem that JVC's factory level Q/C is unable to screen so projectors get built with the defective parts and shipped.

Unless someone can come up with a method to consistently reproduce this problem on multiple susceptible projectors in a reasonable amount of time, I might think it may never be fixed.



I dont believe fewer vertical lines indicates JVC has improved the problem. It's still HDMI corruption. Most likely it just corrupted less that time for you (regardless of what FW you're running).

Thanks.
I will hold off on the calibration.
I got the go ahead from my dealer and will update the firmware today.


Dreading a need for a swap as the response I got from my dealer was very disappointing.

Last edited by chamii123; 06-09-2019 at 06:21 PM.
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post #12585 of 19439 Old 06-09-2019, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by JMCecil View Post
diagonal 2.35 or 2.39
15'-5" minimum on a 2.35, but you should allow around 3" extra, so I would use 15'-8".
15'-6" minimum on a 2.39, but you should allow around 3" extra, so I would use 15'-9".
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post #12586 of 19439 Old 06-09-2019, 06:16 PM
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Its a real love hate relationship with this projector.
Just when I thought I was out, it pulled me back in

Installed block out curtains to the HT yesterday.


OMG!!!
John Wick and Life of Pi looked great.
The Jedi fallen the order game-play clip was sooo good on the N7
I think it's also because it's my first projector.
The regrets I had 2 days ago about moving to a N7 projector melted away.

As long as the green/blue bar issue occurs every 50-100 hours or so with no long term consequences I think it's an issue I can live with.

Watched two episodes of Black Mirror ( Dolby Vision ) on the N7 and the Z9D.
While I preferred the picture quality on the TV but the overall experience is a lot better on the N7.

I emailed my dealer about the blue/green bar issue but decided to visit the store in person to ask if it was ok for me to update the firmware to 2.07
I was very disappointed by the attitude. Judging by the conversation we had, I doubt they would forward my email to JVC.

He told me that its a problem with the projector if the issue is seen when the menu is brought up.
I have to admit that I had not tried this and will do so if/when it happens again.

Thereafter, he asked me to inform JVC directly and log the issue with them saying that customers have more clout and JVC is slow to respond to dealers. He said that dealers are the first point of contact if the company does not have its own office in the country.
He then asked if about the change log of the new firmware. (I have no idea. Does anybody?)

I plan to update the FW today an inform JVC about the issue tomorrow.

Last edited by chamii123; 06-09-2019 at 06:30 PM.
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post #12587 of 19439 Old 06-09-2019, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chamii123 View Post
Its a real love hate relationship with this projector.
Just when I thought I was out, it pulled me back in

Installed block out curtains to the HT yesterday.


OMG!!!
John Wick and Life of Pi looked great.
The Jedi fallen the order game-play clip was sooo good on the N7
I think it's also because it's my first projector.
The regrets I had 2 days ago about moving to a N7 projector melted away.

As long as the green/blue bar issue occurs every 50-100 hours or so with no long term consequences I think it's an issue I can live with.

Watched two episodes of Black Mirror ( Dolby Vision ) on the N7 and the Z9D.
While I preferred the picture quality on the TV but the overall experience is a lot better on the N7.

I emailed my dealer about the blue/green bar issue but decided to visit the store in person to ask if it was ok for me to update the firmware to 2.07
I was very disappointed by the attitude. Judging by the conversation we had, I doubt they would forward my email to JVC.

He told me that its a problem with the projector if the issue is seen when the menu is brought up.
I have to admit that I had not tried this and will do so if/when it happens again.

Thereafter, he asked me to inform JVC directly and log the issue with them saying that customers have more clout and JVC is slow to respond to dealers. He said that dealers are the first point of contact if the company does not have its own office in the country.
He then asked if about the change log of the new firmware. (I have no idea. Does anybody?)

I plan to update the FW today an inform JVC about the issue tomorrow.
I'd personally never buy from that dealer again. Wow.

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post #12588 of 19439 Old 06-09-2019, 09:06 PM
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I'd personally never buy from that dealer again. Wow.


Ya, JVC is not slow to respond in my experience. Sometimes within 2 minutes, even at 10pm.


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post #12589 of 19439 Old 06-09-2019, 09:07 PM
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I had a new (for me) RS1000 problem tonight. The picture just kept going to white noise. It would display for 10-15-seconds and then black for a second or two then white noise. Switching inputs away and back would get me displayed again then, in a few seconds bang - white noise. Menus still work fine when the white noise is displayed.

I powercycled the PJ, the AVR, the Roku. Swapped inputs HDMI1-2. Nothing would get out of this. I have another fiber cable so I ran that one but by the time I was ready to switch the cables it stopped. So maybe 30 minutes total elapsed, and then back to normal. Nothing I do seems to be bring it back. Behaved like a temperature/warmup issue. I'll try cold again tomorrow night. I have eco disabled. I'm still running 2.04. Has anyone else seen this?

steve
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post #12590 of 19439 Old 06-09-2019, 09:33 PM
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I have a RS 1000 on a ceiling mount that has a 6 inch extension. Are there any issues having this projector tilted down a little? Previously I had my RS 400 on the same mount, but it didn't need to be tilted at all. With this one it seems like the lense doesn't go down as far.

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post #12591 of 19439 Old 06-09-2019, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gates View Post
I have a RS 1000 on a ceiling mount that has a 6 inch extension. Are there any issues having this projector tilted down a little? Previously I had my RS 400 on the same mount, but it didn't need to be tilted at all. With this one it seems like the lense doesn't go down as far.
Buy a longer drop tube. You shouldn't tilt the projector down.
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post #12592 of 19439 Old 06-10-2019, 01:06 AM
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Originally Posted by dsm1212 View Post
I had a new (for me) RS1000 problem tonight. The picture just kept going to white noise. It would display for 10-15-seconds and then black for a second or two then white noise. Switching inputs away and back would get me displayed again then, in a few seconds bang - white noise. Menus still work fine when the white noise is displayed.

I powercycled the PJ, the AVR, the Roku. Swapped inputs HDMI1-2. Nothing would get out of this. I have another fiber cable so I ran that one but by the time I was ready to switch the cables it stopped. So maybe 30 minutes total elapsed, and then back to normal. Nothing I do seems to be bring it back. Behaved like a temperature/warmup issue. I'll try cold again tomorrow night. I have eco disabled. I'm still running 2.04. Has anyone else seen this?

steve
It sounds to me like a cable issue. I don't know the lenght/brand of your cable but if it's a long run i suggest you a Ruipro cable (i've tried various brand but at some moment i've had the same issues like yours, until i've found the Ruipro).
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post #12593 of 19439 Old 06-10-2019, 02:41 AM
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I've calibrated my N7 for both HD and UHD HDR. I've used Natural profile for HD and User 1 for UHD. Both profile share the 2.2 gamma (I'm using the combo with the UB9000). The problem is that when I watch UHD HDR I need to tweak the settings in the gamma menu and when I watch HD they should remain to zero and each time I need to do it manually. Is there a shortcut I can use?
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post #12594 of 19439 Old 06-10-2019, 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
Buy a longer drop tube. You shouldn't tilt the projector down.
Thanks a bunch Mike. I have the Peerless PRGUNV ceiling mount and just ordered the AEC018024, so I hope they go together. Couldn't find definitive info, but it seems like it would match.

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post #12595 of 19439 Old 06-10-2019, 06:39 AM
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If I experience the bars every hundred hours and have to turn it off and on I am ok with that.
If it happened every hour no way.
SO if you have a room full of 8 people watching a movie and half way through it gets blue bars you're fine with it? You'll have to power off projector, wait for the 2 minute red flashing light and fan to power down the projector in the lamp cool down. Then when that's done you'll have go get up and go unplug the projector for 30 seconds or maybe longer to be sure. Then you'll have to power on and go through a quick warm up cycle before you can resume your movie. If that happened here I'd be super embarrassed of my equipment.

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post #12596 of 19439 Old 06-10-2019, 06:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Homer J Simpson View Post
I've calibrated my N7 for both HD and UHD HDR. I've used Natural profile for HD and User 1 for UHD. Both profile share the 2.2 gamma (I'm using the combo with the UB9000). The problem is that when I watch UHD HDR I need to tweak the settings in the gamma menu and when I watch HD they should remain to zero and each time I need to do it manually. Is there a shortcut I can use?
Use a Custom gamma for HDR and select gamma 2.2 as correction value, then apply your tweaks.
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post #12597 of 19439 Old 06-10-2019, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
SO if you have a room full of 8 people watching a movie and half way through it gets blue bars you're fine with it? You'll have to power off projector, wait for the 2 minute red flashing light and fan to power down the projector in the lamp cool down. Then when that's done you'll have go get up and go unplug the projector for 30 seconds or maybe longer to be sure. Then you'll have to power on and go through a quick warm up cycle before you can resume your movie. If that happened here I'd be super embarrassed of my equipment.
Could always say it's intermission and break for beer, wine, and cocktails You're right though. Hopefully they can figure out what's going on and get a fix that doesn't require sending the projector in for updates.

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post #12598 of 19439 Old 06-10-2019, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Gates View Post
Thanks a bunch Mike. I have the Peerless PRGUNV ceiling mount and just ordered the AEC018024, so I hope they go together. Couldn't find definitive info, but it seems like it would match.
You can use threaded pipe from a hardware store and paint it black. I have the peerless ceiling mount , threaded pipe then a chief jvc mount.
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post #12599 of 19439 Old 06-10-2019, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
SO if you have a room full of 8 people watching a movie and half way through it gets blue bars you're fine with it? You'll have to power off projector, wait for the 2 minute red flashing light and fan to power down the projector in the lamp cool down. Then when that's done you'll have go get up and go unplug the projector for 30 seconds or maybe longer to be sure. Then you'll have to power on and go through a quick warm up cycle before you can resume your movie. If that happened here I'd be super embarrassed of my equipment.
Nothing worse then showing some friends something and have it glitch out or fail......
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post #12600 of 19439 Old 06-10-2019, 08:55 AM
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The one thing I don't like about my X5000 is occasional light spill at the sides of my 2,35:1 screen when watching 16:9 content
Has this problem been solved by the new design of the N series?
None here on my NX7.

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