Official JVC RS3000/NX9 - JVC RS2000/NX7/N7 - JVC RS1000/NX5/N5 - Owners Thread - Page 434 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #12991 of 14169 Old 06-20-2019, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by jeahrens View Post
That's odd. You haven't enabled SDR/BT2020 by chance have you? I've not played around with it on the NX7 but it's the only thing that springs to mind that may cause this.
Just an update. I got Tone Mapping engaged on the NX7 for all three titles that I couldn't before, Oceans, Dunkirk, Star Trek: Beyond. So that's good. It was the settings. I wish that I could tell you what I was doing wrong before so I don't repeat the same mistakes in the future but unfortunately I can't. All that said, I also have the HDR Optimizer engaged on the Panny UB9000 so next I will shut that off and try again.
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post #12992 of 14169 Old 06-20-2019, 09:42 AM
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I finally got my bulb. Took about a month but I got it.

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post #12993 of 14169 Old 06-20-2019, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by surroundsound99 View Post
Just an update. I got Tone Mapping engaged on the NX7 for all three titles that I couldn't before, Oceans, Dunkirk, Star Trek: Beyond. So that's good. It was the settings. I wish that I could tell you what I was doing wrong before so I don't repeat the same mistakes in the future but unfortunately I can't. All that said, I also have the HDR Optimizer engaged on the Panny UB9000 so next I will shut that off and try again.
Honestly I would leave it on. Double tonemapping (Panasonic Optimizer + JVC) has given me the best results overall. And the Panasonic controls are a bit more user friendly to adjust for titles without metadata.

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post #12994 of 14169 Old 06-20-2019, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Archibald1 View Post
Sitting on the fence between the NX9 and the Z1?

Who has enough Wonga for a Z1 and is doing that?

One is 18k-ish and the other is 35k-ish.
Unless you are super spendthrift and can't stand being stiffed on ultimate value, then just get the Z1! It IS the better machine I believe.


I would argue, for the minimal differences that exist in the real world to the image on screen, those that are seeking best value would go for the NX9 anyway (95% of the performance for circa 50% of the price) and not be on the fence any more than those with the means who simply want the best.

Same argument for the Sony 760 v the 870.
Street is way less on each. But the RS4500 is still 75% more than an RS3000.
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post #12995 of 14169 Old 06-20-2019, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by CyberPaul View Post
Anyone experienced issues with masking when in 3D mode? Basically masks are interpreted as 2x. I’️m usually adopting a mask top=bottom=131 to fit 2.35:1 image in my scope screen. And it works for both HD and 4K. It scales automatically.
When in 3D, it cuts more and looks like more than 3:1! I have to divide by two to cut correctly. Top=bottom=65 provides me exactly 2.35:1. Did anyone else experience this?
I wonder if the masks are pixel based and since 3d is only 1080p, it basically doubles (100 pixels on 1080p cut off more of the image than 100 pixels of 2160p). Perhaps you can create two lens memories, one for regular with masking and one for 3d / 1080p with masking then just toggle between?
The masks ARE pixel based considering 1080 lines. So 131 is the number of lines (top and bottom) I have to cut from a 1080p frame to get 2.35:1 screen. Pure math. So I was very surprised and happy to realize that even in 4K (i.e. 2160p) the proportions were respected. So the VPR is auto-scaling the masks to what they should be having 2160 lines: 262, even though still showing 131 in the menu. Fine, they decided to use 1080 lines as standard for the masks. Maybe to help people coming from previous models. Considering all that, why when in 3D, where we ARE using 1080p, it got scaled similarly, but in this case causing the very bad collateral effect to have a double masking??? Being an IT guy, I tend to think that they implemented a silly rule like this:
If not regular 2D full HD then double the mask! And 3D is making that condition true!
I have already created installation modes for 3D, but I don’t like wasting precious presets (I have 6 for different aspect ratio) and, most importantly, I hate to change installation mode when I didn’t change aspect ratio!
I have 2.05 firmware, can you please test it on 2.07?
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post #12996 of 14169 Old 06-20-2019, 10:13 AM
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Hey All!

First time projector user here... got the RS2000 hooked up the other day (Thanks Chris), and man does it look amazing!

I have some questions tho. I'm sure it's been answered before, but when I turn on my AVR/Shield/Projector (currently with their respective remotes), the screen comes up as a solid green. I then have to shut off the AVR and turn it back on and then it displays perfectly. What am I missing? I'm sure it's something simple like letting the shield and ARV get the signal up and running before the projector starts up, but then I think of the logitech harmony users that have everything start up at once. Thanks!

The other is (and I'm sure I'll have more)... is using horizontal shift a bad practice? I didn't even think to twist my projector side to side to get the picture centered when the shift feature worked so easily.
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post #12997 of 14169 Old 06-20-2019, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
For those that are on the fence between the 4500 and the RS3000,
JVC has just made the decision harder.

JVC is bringing new firmware for the 4500,
adding the auto tone mapping and the two Panasonic color profiles.
Also adding around 30 new screen codes.


Terry

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My "New" Home Theater Up-Dates with Pictures, March 6th, 2019 .
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/15-ge...st-2018-a.html
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post #12998 of 14169 Old 06-20-2019, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
I don't agree. It didn't look bad by any means, but it was pretty soft compared to previous marvel movies. For example, black panther was a lot sharper and much more colorful. I think it was one of the worst 4K upscales I've seen. I compared the 4K UHD vs the 1080p Bluray run through madVR upscaler, and they were about the same. I guess that says a lot about madVR, but black panther was definitely better UHD vs Bluray + madVR upscale.

However, Captain Marvel was one of my all time favorite marvel movies to date. I loved it so much I watched it twice two days in a row. (I can't think of last time I rewatched movie).



I have to agree the Video part of Captain Marvel 4K UHD Disc was not as good as most, comparing viewing this on my 77" LG OLED Signature TV, vs the RS4500 in my theater room - there are many dark scenes in the movie that appeared almost too dark - there were some scenes that had some incredible colors and highlights but I agree with markmon - soft, I put in Intersteller the next night and that 4K Disc was tack sharp throughout.
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post #12999 of 14169 Old 06-20-2019, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by coderguy View Post
Compared to projectors 10 years ago, these JVC's are all incredibly sharp (remember how the RS-1 looked, or worse an Epson 6500ub - average sample)
Agreed. I started out on the 1080P journey with the Epson 6500UB about 10 years ago. There were so many issues with sharpness, lens drift, convergence that by the time I received a decent replacement from Epson, it was the 8700UB - They kept sending me bad units and I kept sending them back. After about 6 or 7 bad units, they were on the new 8700UB model and sent me that one. It has served me faithfully until my RS2000.

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post #13000 of 14169 Old 06-20-2019, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by SSnarski View Post
I have to agree the Video part of Captain Marvel 4K UHD Disc was not as good as most, comparing viewing this on my 77" LG OLED Signature TV, vs the RS4500 in my theater room - there are many dark scenes in the movie that appeared almost too dark - there were some scenes that had some incredible colors and highlights but I agree with markmon - soft, I put in Intersteller the next night and that 4K Disc was tack sharp throughout.
Sounds like a tone mapping issue. The Disney/Marvel discs don't have good metadata, so this may be an issue even after the new update for the 4500, but will be interesting if you get a better result with that title. I haven't looked at it yet. I am getting an NX9 next week so I am holding off on watching new stuff until it arrives and I get it dialed in.

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post #13001 of 14169 Old 06-20-2019, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by tigerhonaker View Post


Terry

SUPER - Just had Chad B out to completely calibrate my RS4500 and my complete audio system - hopefully he can just direct what settings to change or play with because i can't see me fiddling with anything since he completed his work - Can't see things getting any better than the way he has left it.
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post #13002 of 14169 Old 06-20-2019, 10:56 AM
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1) What is everyone using for ceiling mounts? Chief is recommending the RPMA281 or the RPA281. Both are rated for 50lbs. The NX7 is 44lbs. That's cutting it awfully close. I can only imagine waking up one morning to find $8000 worth of electronics splattered on the floor. Chief also said the VCM heavy-duty mount (250lbs) won't work because the screw holes don't line up.

2) On YouTube, there is a review of the NX7 by Pan the Organizer from 3/15/19. From 7:07 until 7:30 it shows his dealer mounting the NX7 on the ceiling. What mount are they using? Pan says it's his old mount but is it a Chief mount? It sort of looks like a Chief but it sort of doesn't.

3) I too have a 3-5 second delay on video at the beginning of a movie, as Vaha commented here recently. I agree with others it's a handshake issue because I have different equipment than Vaha and I still have the same issue.

4a) True or False. Every movie I watch, I will need to start the movie, adjust the picture settings until the picture looks good (especially Picture Mode, Color Profile, and Gamma Settings) and either continue on with the movie or start over so the setup window isn't in the way any more? In other words, there is no "set-it-and-forget-it" any more? I know the answer is no, which is fine, I'm an tweaker so I will enjoy playing with the settings. It's just that this seems to be a fact-of-life with high-end projectors especially now with HDR, but I haven't actually seen anyone admit that this is indeed the way it is now and I want to see people say it in black and white. I realize there are many settings which can be set for Auto but not all can.

4b) I'm coming up with 106 different combinations of Picture Modes and Color Profiles according to page 31 of the manual. Natural has 6, Cinema 6, HDR10 and HLG 4 each, Film 2, User 1-6 has 8 before even considering the remaining 6 user Picture Modes can have 6 each custom Color Profiles. I probably did the math wrong but I can't be too far off. The point it, it's nice to have alot of choices, but who can explore 106 different looking pictures before watching a movie, especially for a tweaker like me. You know how us AV enthusiasts can be. But I only have so much patience and so much time. That being said, I can't be the only one who just wants to know that he's watching the absolute best picture he can! So my question to you all is, how do I find the best picture I can without exploring 106 different picture combinations at once?! This is not even taking into account all the different Gamma settings, Tone Mapping adjustments, Color Temp settings, and everything other setting that can be tweaked on the unit and on the player and receiver. Makes me almost want to go back to the 1970s when there were only five knobs on the TV; Channel, Volume, Hue, Color, and Picture!

5) Tell me if I'm on the right track on these Color Profiles:
HDR - seems to work best so far, but I have gotten mixed results, probably due to settings, and also I have the HDR Optimizer engaged on my Panasonic UB9000.
BT.2020 - seems to be the the de facto standard for newer titles? When in doubt, start with BT.2020 and HDR and see they look? Is that the best approach? If those don't look good then it's a gamble on the other Color Profiles? That's what I've found so far.
BT.709 - from what I read, seems to be best with older material or material originally meant for TV? (For ex, the BBC's "Oceans")
DCI - seemed to work very well on one of my movies but the HDR Color Profile looked better. I see some technical explanations of DCI online but not alot of talk in enthusiast circles. What's the deal with this one?
Video, Anime, Cinema, Film1, Film2 - are self-explanatory but am I missing out on anything? These remind me of receivers from the 1990s that had Hall, Jazz, Club and other horrible sounding surround modes, but they look good on the brochure before you buy it so the manufacturer feels obliged to include them.
Custom 1 and 2 - match them up with User 1 and User 2 Picture Modes which are matched up with Basic and High Luminance on the Panny 9000?
Custom 4 through 6 - for tweaking?

6) The picture sometimes flashes in and out, like the bulb is struggling to keep up, especially on bright scenes. I only have about 10 hours on the bulb so far so I will reserve judgement until after 100-200 hours but just wanted to comment.

Thanks for your feedback everyone!
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post #13003 of 14169 Old 06-20-2019, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSnarski View Post
SUPER - Just had Chad B out to completely calibrate my RS4500 and my complete audio system - hopefully he can just direct what settings to change or play with because i can't see me fiddling with anything since he completed his work - Can't see things getting any better than the way he has left it.
SSnarski,

If I ever actually find out what (Benefit/Benefits) the New RS4500 Firmware would do in my H/T ???
I would just have Chad B. come back and do a (Refresh) on my RS4500 and get the New Panasonic UB9000.
I now have the Panasonic UB820 as the UB9000 was not even out when I got the UB820.
I knew about the UB9000 but since Chad B. was coming way before the UB9000 was actually available I wanted to make sure Chad B. could Custom Calibrate mine with the UB820.

Like a lot of Firmware in some cases does little to nothing for some installs I will have to know for a FACT adding the newest Firmware to my H/T System would be an actual (Noticeable-Improvement) ???
And when I say the above ^^^ I'm referring to me and my eyes ............
Not some expert saying, see look right there as I pause the image !!!
That's when I'm out and not even remotely interested in spending Big Monies just to say, look what I have.


Terry

JVC RS4500 Laser Projector:
My "New" Home Theater Up-Dates with Pictures, March 6th, 2019 .
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/15-ge...st-2018-a.html
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post #13004 of 14169 Old 06-20-2019, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by surroundsound99 View Post
1) What is everyone using for ceiling mounts? Chief is recommending the RPMA281 or the RPA281. Both are rated for 50lbs. The NX7 is 44lbs. That's cutting it awfully close. I can only imagine waking up one morning to find $8000 worth of electronics splattered on the floor. Chief also said the VCM heavy-duty mount (250lbs) won't work because the screw holes don't line up.
I'll just address the mount. The Chief mount will hold way more than 50 lbs., and they spec the RPA281 / RPMA281 for the new JVC's on their website. So I wouldn't worry. I'd bet an RPA mount could hold 350 lbs. or more - if your screws and what they are attached to are strong enough.
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post #13005 of 14169 Old 06-20-2019, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by tehknics View Post
Hey All!

First time projector user here... got the RS2000 hooked up the other day (Thanks Chris), and man does it look amazing!

I have some questions tho. I'm sure it's been answered before, but when I turn on my AVR/Shield/Projector (currently with their respective remotes), the screen comes up as a solid green. I then have to shut off the AVR and turn it back on and then it displays perfectly. What am I missing? I'm sure it's something simple like letting the shield and ARV get the signal up and running before the projector starts up, but then I think of the logitech harmony users that have everything start up at once. Thanks!

The other is (and I'm sure I'll have more)... is using horizontal shift a bad practice? I didn't even think to twist my projector side to side to get the picture centered when the shift feature worked so easily.
Sounds like you need a startup delay or a change to the startup order of your equipment.

No problem using lens shift either horizontal of vertical unless you get to the very extreme edge of the range. You can run into some lens abnormalities here. But most of us never come close to going that far.

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post #13006 of 14169 Old 06-20-2019, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by jeahrens View Post
Honestly I would leave it on. Double tonemapping (Panasonic Optimizer + JVC) has given me the best results overall.And the Panasonic controls are a bit more user friendly to adjust for titles without metadata.
Funny you should say that. I get the same results with my 760 and the Panny!

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post #13007 of 14169 Old 06-20-2019, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by surroundsound99 View Post
1) What is everyone using for ceiling mounts? Chief is recommending the RPMA281 or the RPA281. Both are rated for 50lbs. The NX7 is 44lbs. That's cutting it awfully close. I can only imagine waking up one morning to find $8000 worth of electronics splattered on the floor. Chief also said the VCM heavy-duty mount (250lbs) won't work because the screw holes don't line up.

2) On YouTube, there is a review of the NX7 by Pan the Organizer from 3/15/19. From 7:07 until 7:30 it shows his dealer mounting the NX7 on the ceiling. What mount are they using? Pan says it's his old mount but is it a Chief mount? It sort of looks like a Chief but it sort of doesn't.

3) I too have a 3-5 second delay on video at the beginning of a movie, as Vaha commented here recently. I agree with others it's a handshake issue because I have different equipment than Vaha and I still have the same issue.

4a) True or False. Every movie I watch, I will need to start the movie, adjust the picture settings until the picture looks good (especially Picture Mode, Color Profile, and Gamma Settings) and either continue on with the movie or start over so the setup window isn't in the way any more? In other words, there is no "set-it-and-forget-it" any more? I know the answer is no, which is fine, I'm an tweaker so I will enjoy playing with the settings. It's just that this seems to be a fact-of-life with high-end projectors especially now with HDR, but I haven't actually seen anyone admit that this is indeed the way it is now and I want to see people say it in black and white. I realize there are many settings which can be set for Auto but not all can.

4b) I'm coming up with 106 different combinations of Picture Modes and Color Profiles according to page 31 of the manual. Natural has 6, Cinema 6, HDR10 and HLG 4 each, Film 2, User 1-6 has 8 before even considering the remaining 6 user Picture Modes can have 6 each custom Color Profiles. I probably did the math wrong but I can't be too far off. The point it, it's nice to have alot of choices, but who can explore 106 different looking pictures before watching a movie, especially for a tweaker like me. You know how us AV enthusiasts can be. But I only have so much patience and so much time. That being said, I can't be the only one who just wants to know that he's watching the absolute best picture he can! So my question to you all is, how do I find the best picture I can without exploring 106 different picture combinations at once?! This is not even taking into account all the different Gamma settings, Tone Mapping adjustments, Color Temp settings, and everything other setting that can be tweaked on the unit and on the player and receiver. Makes me almost want to go back to the 1970s when there were only five knobs on the TV; Channel, Volume, Hue, Color, and Picture!

5) Tell me if I'm on the right track on these Color Profiles:
HDR - seems to work best so far, but I have gotten mixed results, probably due to settings, and also I have the HDR Optimizer engaged on my Panasonic UB9000.
BT.2020 - seems to be the the de facto standard for newer titles? When in doubt, start with BT.2020 and HDR and see they look? Is that the best approach? If those don't look good then it's a gamble on the other Color Profiles? That's what I've found so far.
BT.709 - from what I read, seems to be best with older material or material originally meant for TV? (For ex, the BBC's "Oceans")
DCI - seemed to work very well on one of my movies but the HDR Color Profile looked better. I see some technical explanations of DCI online but not alot of talk in enthusiast circles. What's the deal with this one?
Video, Anime, Cinema, Film1, Film2 - are self-explanatory but am I missing out on anything? These remind me of receivers from the 1990s that had Hall, Jazz, Club and other horrible sounding surround modes, but they look good on the brochure before you buy it so the manufacturer feels obliged to include them.
Custom 1 and 2 - match them up with User 1 and User 2 Picture Modes which are matched up with Basic and High Luminance on the Panny 9000?
Custom 4 through 6 - for tweaking?

6) The picture sometimes flashes in and out, like the bulb is struggling to keep up, especially on bright scenes. I only have about 10 hours on the bulb so far so I will reserve judgement until after 100-200 hours but just wanted to comment.

Thanks for your feedback everyone!
1) I use a Peerless with a plate. But the Chief is the best mount out there and should have no problems with the weight.

2) No comment, haven't seen it

3) A handshaking delay is perfectly normal

4a) False. If you are using the HDR PQ setting with an overall mapping level set you should have many titles looking fine without tweaking. If you have a Panasonic UB820 or 9000 with auto tonemapping/HDR Optimizer it should be even more plug and play. Any title that lacks metadata, like Disney, you will have to tweak things to look their best. But the majority of titles do have proper metadata and look great with the same settings. I believe you mention owning a Panasonic 9000, I use my UB820 optimizer on with brightness set at -1 as a baseline. For titles that lack metadata I find the Panasonic easier to adjust things with.

4b) The key is to find the settings that get closest to accurate for what you are watching. For SDR I'm using a Custom setting with 6500K color temp, gamma 2.3 and brightness -1 (adjust the iris according to preference, I use -9 for scope with Auto-1 and -11 for narrow material with Auto-1). For HDR I'm using another custom slot, BT.2020 color (I prefer the filter, HDR is BT2020 without the filter), HDR PQ gamma (which is using a mapping level of 3) and brightness -3 (for HDR iris settings I use -3 for scope with Auto-1 and -5 for narrow with Auto-1). Once you find the setting that is closest to accurate for the material you are watching, you really don't need to worry about the rest of the color presets.

5) HDR and BT2020 are both displaying wide color gamut (WCG) found on 4K material. HDR does not use the color filter which limits it ~90% of P3 coverage, but offers more light output. BT2020 does use the filter and gives you over 100% P3 coverage at the cost of light output. I find the richer colors preferable and use the filter, you may prefer HDR. Either way these are what you will use for UHD material. For SDR you'll want look at what works. I found 6500K to work well.

6) Sounds like cabling/signal drop out


Last edited by jeahrens; 06-20-2019 at 12:11 PM.
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post #13008 of 14169 Old 06-20-2019, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by tigerhonaker View Post
SSnarski,

If I ever actually find out what (Benefit/Benefits) the New RS4500 Firmware would do in my H/T ???
I would just have Chad B. come back and do a (Refresh) on my RS4500 and get the New Panasonic UB9000.
I now have the Panasonic UB820 as the UB9000 was not even out when I got the UB820.
I knew about the UB9000 but since Chad B. was coming way before the UB9000 was actually available I wanted to make sure Chad B. could Custom Calibrate mine with the UB820.

Like a lot of Firmware in some cases does little to nothing for some installs I will have to know for a FACT adding the newest Firmware to my H/T System would be an actual (Noticeable-Improvement) ???
And when I say the above ^^^ I'm referring to me and my eyes ............
Not some expert saying, see look right there as I pause the image !!!
That's when I'm out and not even remotely interested in spending Big Monies just to say, look what I have.


Terry



Probably should be over on the JVC RS4500 thread - but Terry i cannot agree more,
I have the Pana 9000 but with the DCR lens and Lumagen pro - i doubt there will be much difference even with the Firmware upgrade, since
my Pana 9000 is not doing much at all - the Lum Rad Pro is handling all the DTM work

we are going to have to sit back and let the pro's figure all this out - and experiment with the new Firmware
Maybe it will add that little bit of benefit - that "edge" everyone is after
It does add a little spark to the thread and i will be following very closely
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post #13009 of 14169 Old 06-20-2019, 12:58 PM
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1) I use a Peerless with a plate. But the Chief is the best mount out there and should have no problems with the weight.

2) No comment, haven't seen it

3) A handshaking delay is perfectly normal

4a) False. If you are using the HDR PQ setting with an overall mapping level set you should have many titles looking fine without tweaking. If you have a Panasonic UB820 or 9000 with auto tonemapping/HDR Optimizer it should be even more plug and play. Any title that lacks metadata, like Disney, you will have to tweak things to look their best. But the majority of titles do have proper metadata and look great with the same settings. I believe you mention owning a Panasonic 9000, I use my UB820 optimizer on with brightness set at -1 as a baseline. For titles that lack metadata I find the Panasonic easier to adjust things with.

4b) The key is to find the settings that get closest to accurate for what you are watching. For SDR I'm using a Custom setting with 6500K color temp, gamma 2.3 and brightness -1 (adjust the iris according to preference, I use -9 for scope with Auto-1 and -11 for narrow material with Auto-1). For HDR I'm using another custom slot, BT.2020 color (I prefer the filter, HDR is BT2020 without the filter), HDR PQ gamma (which is using a mapping level of 3) and brightness -3 (for HDR iris settings I use -3 for scope with Auto-1 and -5 for narrow with Auto-1). Once you find the setting that is closest to accurate for the material you are watching, you really don't need to worry about the rest of the color presets.

5) HDR and BT2020 are both displaying wide color gamut (WCG) found on 4K material. HDR does not use the color filter which limits it ~90% of P3 coverage, but offers more light output. BT2020 does use the filter and gives you over 100% P3 coverage at the cost of light output. I find the richer colors preferable and use the filter, you may prefer HDR. Either way these are what you will use for UHD material. For SDR you'll want look at what works. I found 6500K to work well.

6) Sounds like cabling/signal drop out
Thanks for all this great info jeahrens!! I can't wait to try out your settings and thanks for sharing them. I did not know about the various filters involved so that clears things up a bit.
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post #13010 of 14169 Old 06-20-2019, 01:27 PM
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Think I am getting closer to pulling the trigger on this bad boy(NX9).

Can the NX9 do an anamorphic stretch in 4K using the entire 17:9 panel(4096 X 2160)?

Have an ISCO 1.25 lens and the ability of the NX9 to do that stretch would be a deal breaker.

I understand that the Z1 cannot do the stretch to 4096 but it can to 3840(or cannot do either and needs a lumagen)-sorry if I am mistaken.
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post #13011 of 14169 Old 06-20-2019, 02:09 PM
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Sounds like you need a startup delay or a change to the startup order of your equipment.

No problem using lens shift either horizontal of vertical unless you get to the very extreme edge of the range. You can run into some lens abnormalities here. But most of us never come close to going that far.
Appreciate the advice. So while I was home for lunch, I tried turning the AVR/Shield on long before the Projector, and ran into the same problem. Maybe I'm thinking backwards, but shouldn't the source be active before the display for it to not occur?
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post #13012 of 14169 Old 06-20-2019, 02:16 PM
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I don't agree. It didn't look bad by any means, but it was pretty soft compared to previous marvel movies. For example, black panther was a lot sharper and much more colorful. I think it was one of the worst 4K upscales I've seen. I compared the 4K UHD vs the 1080p Bluray run through madVR upscaler, and they were about the same. I guess that says a lot about madVR, but black panther was definitely better UHD vs Bluray + madVR upscale.

However, Captain Marvel was one of my all time favorite marvel movies to date. I loved it so much I watched it twice two days in a row. (I can't think of last time I rewatched movie).
I thought the same on my RS3000. A lot of the movie had dark soft scenes and the contrast in many scenes was low. I don't think it was a metadata issue as it looked similar in the movie theaters. I have been very impressed with how the RS3000 handles output from my Panasonic UB820. Both tone map well and all the other Marvel movies have looked great. I just thought that Captain Marvel wasn't nearly as high contrast and detailed as any of the other recent Marvel 4k UHD releases such as Black Panther, Captain America series, or Avengers movies.

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post #13013 of 14169 Old 06-20-2019, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by tehknics View Post
Appreciate the advice. So while I was home for lunch, I tried turning the AVR/Shield on long before the Projector, and ran into the same problem. Maybe I'm thinking backwards, but shouldn't the source be active before the display for it to not occur?
Some years ago when I first got an X750 projector and was programming my Pronto remote for it I discovered that I had to turn the projector on about 30 seconds prior to turning on my Yamaha preamp and then after some additional delay would turn on the source device. That was the only I could get it to work reliably. Now that I have an NX7 I've thought that I might want to go back and try reducing that initial 30 second delay but haven't bothered. I usually only turn on and use my projector about one day a week so the delay really isn't an issue.

1) JVC DLA-NX7 & Sony 65Z9D, Yamaha CX-A5200, Outlaw Audio 7900 & 7700, UDP-203, DP-UB9000, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
2) Sony 75Z9D, Yamaha RX-A3080, 2xOutlaw Audio 2200s, UDP-203, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
3) Sony 75X940E, Yamaha RX-A2080, UDP-203, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
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post #13014 of 14169 Old 06-20-2019, 02:19 PM
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Some years ago when I first got an X750 projector and was programming my Pronto remote for it I discovered that I had to turn the projector on about 30 seconds prior to turning on my Yamaha preamp and then after some additional delay would turn on the source device. That was the only I could get it to work reliably. Now that I have an NX7 I've thought that I might want to go back and try reducing that initial 30 second delay but haven't bothered. I usually only turn on and use my projector about one day a week so the delay really isn't an issue.
Ok, so my head had it backwards... I need to give the projector a head start. I'll experiment with times, but start at around 30 seconds and see if that works, and shave off from there. Mine is a dedicated theater so the delay isnt a big deal either. I rather wait and not see the green screen! Thanks.
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post #13015 of 14169 Old 06-20-2019, 02:42 PM
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Think I am getting closer to pulling the trigger on this bad boy(NX9).

Can the NX9 do an anamorphic stretch in 4K using the entire 17:9 panel(4096 X 2160)?

Have an ISCO 1.25 lens and the ability of the NX9 to do that stretch would be a deal breaker.

I understand that the Z1 cannot do the stretch to 4096 but it can to 3840(or cannot do either and needs a lumagen)-sorry if I am mistaken.
" Can the NX9 do an anamorphic stretch in 4K using the entire 17:9 panel(4096 X 2160)? " - Yes.

The Z1 needs a Lumagen to use the full 4096 x 2160 panel. It can be used with a regular Paladin or other 1.33 lens in 3840 x 2160 without a Lumagen.
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post #13016 of 14169 Old 06-20-2019, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by TheSony4KRises View Post
Think I am getting closer to pulling the trigger on this bad boy(NX9).

Can the NX9 do an anamorphic stretch in 4K using the entire 17:9 panel(4096 X 2160)?

Have an ISCO 1.25 lens and the ability of the NX9 to do that stretch would be a deal breaker.

I understand that the Z1 cannot do the stretch to 4096 but it can to 3840(or cannot do either and needs a lumagen)-sorry if I am mistaken.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig Peer View Post
" Can the NX9 do an anamorphic stretch in 4K using the entire 17:9 panel(4096 X 2160)? " - Yes.

The Z1 needs a Lumagen to use the full 4096 x 2160 panel. It can be used with a regular Paladin or other 1.33 lens in 3840 x 2160 without a Lumagen.
With the NX9 you just need to watch out that it cannot do the correct squeeze back for 16:9 content with the lens in place, it's a little stretched out. You'd need to use a Lumagen to do this 100% correctly.
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post #13017 of 14169 Old 06-20-2019, 04:08 PM
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Sent off for my free bulb June 12th and received it today. Only took a week to receive it


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post #13018 of 14169 Old 06-20-2019, 04:23 PM
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The NX-7 has the second highest contrast of its set, whereas the RS-640 has the highest contrast of its set like the NX-9.
Incorrect. The DLA-20LTD was the highest contrast of its set. Again, last year's offerings were based on hand picked parts to differentiate. This year has actual features to differentiate.

Video: JVC RS4500 135" screen in pure black room no light, htpc nvidia 1080ti.
Audio: Anthem mrx720 running 7.1.4, McIntosh MC-303, MC-152, B&W 802d3 LR, B&W HTM1D3 center, B&W 805d3 surround, B&W 702S2 rear, B&W 706s2 x 4 shelf mounted for atmos, 2 sub arrays both infinite baffle: 4x15 fi audio running on behringer ep4000 + 4x12 fi audio running on 2nd ep4000.
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post #13019 of 14169 Old 06-20-2019, 04:24 PM
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One question as a prospective NX9 buyer.

In your comparison between the NX9 and your Z1 did the 8K eshift on the NX9 add any extra detail relative to the Z1?

If Woofer is reading maybe he can chime in.


Thanks in advance.
I feel it did add a tiny bit of extra detail that you could see only when toggling it on / off in the right content. It wasn't enough that you'd be able to walk into the room and know if it was on or off, though. So in that sense, it's not really a useful feature.
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Video: JVC RS4500 135" screen in pure black room no light, htpc nvidia 1080ti.
Audio: Anthem mrx720 running 7.1.4, McIntosh MC-303, MC-152, B&W 802d3 LR, B&W HTM1D3 center, B&W 805d3 surround, B&W 702S2 rear, B&W 706s2 x 4 shelf mounted for atmos, 2 sub arrays both infinite baffle: 4x15 fi audio running on behringer ep4000 + 4x12 fi audio running on 2nd ep4000.
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post #13020 of 14169 Old 06-20-2019, 04:26 PM
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I would like to see a very unbiased comparison between the two models, but they are hard to come by. Everyone is saying the RS-4500 is still far superior, but on what basis if you take the laser out and just look purely at the image. Everyone has trouble with BIAS at higher price points as it increases greatly, there is an almost 'illness level' of BIAS when evaluating equipment at such high prices, and you can wrap both reviewers and sales people into this same mold. We all know the RS-4500 is superior because of the laser, but the real question is how much the projected image differs as a single trait.

The RS-3000 has the same lens and has higher native contrast than the RS-4500.

Per the 640 vs. NX-9, the MSRP's often jump higher on the highest-end model when major redesigns are made to help pay for R&D, it's nothing new and does not cause a break in the supply chain. Since they were raising the MSRP anyways to help pay for the R&D of the Native 4k in the lamp series, that is likely why they threw in the better lens to make it more of a reasonable jump.
When I did a side-by-side of the RS3000 vs the RS4500 here in my house, the RS3000 lens was actually better than the RS4500 I had at the time. The RS4500 has since been replaced by a better one. But still, my take was that for the most part, the RS3000 was very similar to the RS4500. The main difference was noticed in the fact that the RS4500 had a far better black floor.

Video: JVC RS4500 135" screen in pure black room no light, htpc nvidia 1080ti.
Audio: Anthem mrx720 running 7.1.4, McIntosh MC-303, MC-152, B&W 802d3 LR, B&W HTM1D3 center, B&W 805d3 surround, B&W 702S2 rear, B&W 706s2 x 4 shelf mounted for atmos, 2 sub arrays both infinite baffle: 4x15 fi audio running on behringer ep4000 + 4x12 fi audio running on 2nd ep4000.
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