Official JVC RS3000/NX9 - JVC RS2000/NX7/N7 - JVC RS1000/NX5/N5 - Owners Thread - Page 468 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #14011 of 14949 Old 07-18-2019, 06:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
The problem is that the HDMI EDID is still broadcast when the projector is in standby. If the two devices have identical video parameters then it's not such a problem but if one has different capabilities, you can have issues.

One option I've used in the past is putting the displays on a wifi controlled smart plugs and toggled the plugs off when switching devices. This is equivalent to unplugging the device from the wall, which will stop its EDID transmission.
it must be an anthem thing then because with my marantz av8802a and 10 year old pioneer kuro (1080p) and jvc (4k hdmi 2.0 hdcp2.2) with the marantz output on the auto setting... ie both hdmi out active.... as long as pioneer kuro is in standby I will get 4k on the jvc. if jvc is on stand by i will get 1080p at the kuro(all it can do). if have both displays going I will naturally get 1080p on both
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post #14012 of 14949 Old 07-18-2019, 06:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alebonau View Post
it must be an anthem thing then because with my marantz av8802a and 10 year old pioneer kuro (1080p) and jvc (4k hdmi 2.0 hdcp2.2) with the marantz output on the auto setting... ie both hdmi out active.... as long as pioneer kuro is in standby I will get 4k on the jvc. if jvc is on stand by i will get 1080p at the kuro(all it can do). if have both displays going I will naturally get 1080p on both
Good to know, thanks

Video:JVC N7 Sony 85” 900F Sony 55” 900F
Audio: Paradigm Prestige 95, 55C, 15b Dual JL Audio D110
Receiver/Amp: Anthem 1120, Emotiva XPA-5 Gen 2
Source: Panasonic UB820, triple black velvet batcave
Screen:120” 2.35 Elunevision Tab tensioned motorized drop down screen;
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post #14013 of 14949 Old 07-18-2019, 07:41 AM
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May I share one observation that I have noticed with the operation of the iris/aperture. When projector is firing up from standby, the aperture closes nearly all the way with only a tiny round opening (c2mm) left open. This is until the D-ILA logo appears on screen during which the aperture opens to about 75mm. It stays that way even with no source inputting the projector. This leaves unnecessary stray light on the screen during a fade to black scene or instances like example between trailers or logos. Whilst I am not expecting that aperture closes 100 per cent, I think that in this condition it is not working properly. Even tried reducing aperture to -15 in manual mode, and revert back to auto, did not reduce the size of the aperture further. Any thoughts about this will be appreciated.
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post #14014 of 14949 Old 07-18-2019, 07:46 AM
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Also please note that at the minimum state of the aperture, c75mm, the shape is squarish not as may be expected, a circle. Aperture has a round shape when fully opened or as described before, when firing up from standby. Projector is N7/RS2000, firmware 2.07

Last edited by Fransfar; 07-18-2019 at 08:17 AM.
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post #14015 of 14949 Old 07-18-2019, 12:39 PM
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post #14016 of 14949 Old 07-18-2019, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
The problem is that the HDMI EDID is still broadcast when the projector is in standby. If the two devices have identical video parameters then it's not such a problem but if one has different capabilities, you can have issues.



One option I've used in the past is putting the displays on a wifi controlled smart plugs and toggled the plugs off when switching devices. This is equivalent to unplugging the device from the wall, which will stop its EDID transmission.


Same solution as me...using WiFi based smart plugs with Google Assistant or Alexa. Turn on/off when desired. This is the best solution for me at this point.



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post #14017 of 14949 Old 07-18-2019, 03:46 PM
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Hi guys,

Quick question—- I have a 1080p plasma tv and my 4K jvc projector being fed from different sources through an anthem 1120 receiver. After watching a movie on the projector and then powering down after I’m done, when I switch to watching plasma tv from my cable box the tv will not accept signal (just get blank blue screen). If I unplug the projector and pull out and reattach hdmi cable from tv box to receiver I get the picture on the plasma. All CEC turned off on all components except for some reason forgot to turn it off on plasma tv. CEC on plasma tv now off but haven’t had chance to test. Any ideas why this might be happening—-I’m new with all this stuff so I need explanations in simple language. Thanks!

Ron
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post #14018 of 14949 Old 07-18-2019, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Ikemi View Post
Hi guys,

Quick question—- I have a 1080p plasma tv and my 4K jvc projector being fed from different sources through an anthem 1120 receiver. After watching a movie on the projector and then powering down after I’m done, when I switch to watching plasma tv from my cable box the tv will not accept signal (just get blank blue screen). If I unplug the projector and pull out and reattach hdmi cable from tv box to receiver I get the picture on the plasma. All CEC turned off on all components except for some reason forgot to turn it off on plasma tv. CEC on plasma tv now off but haven’t had chance to test. Any ideas why this might be happening—-I’m new with all this stuff so I need explanations in simple language. Thanks!

Ron
Exact same issue I’m having with Anthem 1120, tv, and pj...a bunch of plug and unplug

Video:JVC N7 Sony 85” 900F Sony 55” 900F
Audio: Paradigm Prestige 95, 55C, 15b Dual JL Audio D110
Receiver/Amp: Anthem 1120, Emotiva XPA-5 Gen 2
Source: Panasonic UB820, triple black velvet batcave
Screen:120” 2.35 Elunevision Tab tensioned motorized drop down screen;
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post #14019 of 14949 Old 07-18-2019, 06:15 PM
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Still getting to grips with the N7 menu as I am a JVC newbie. Trying to understand lens memory as its quite a bit different from Sony. While I can select the 'installation mode' and assign it an appropriate name, I don't see any specific option to 'Save'. Do I select a Mode, make the lens adjustments required, and this is all saved when I name the mode? If so, and I make an additional adjustment/tweak, how do I save again?

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post #14020 of 14949 Old 07-18-2019, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asharma View Post
Exact same issue I’m having with Anthem 1120, tv, and pj...a bunch of plug and unplug


As pointed out in the Anthem owner thread, there is a cheap HDMI switch that will put out 4K on one output and 1080p on the other, doing away with this problem.


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post #14021 of 14949 Old 07-18-2019, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by jabz View Post
Still getting to grips with the N7 menu as I am a JVC newbie. Trying to understand lens memory as its quite a bit different from Sony. While I can select the 'installation mode' and assign it an appropriate name, I don't see any specific option to 'Save'. Do I select a Mode, make the lens adjustments required, and this is all saved when I name the mode? If so, and I make an additional adjustment/tweak, how do I save again?


When you make adjustments to a lens memory, it’s automatically saved. Threw me off the first time too.


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post #14022 of 14949 Old 07-18-2019, 08:49 PM
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Any insider hints on when the next firmware release is? My projector came with 2.06 and works fine, so I figured I would wait for the next update to release before making any firmware changes. However, there are definitely a few things left to fix with these projectors.
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post #14023 of 14949 Old 07-19-2019, 02:45 AM
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Thanks man, I turned off Bravia sync on the Sony which is their CEC...all CEC already disabled on 1120...same result, unfortunately...

Does CEC need to be turned off on the pj side or is there even a CEC setting on the N7?
Same thing happen to me with pre Marantz 8805 N9 and LG Oled tv. The only workaround i've found is to temporarily unplug the hdmi from the Mrantz (vpr or tv depending on where is the issue).
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post #14024 of 14949 Old 07-19-2019, 02:56 AM
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So my NX7 just arrived. My screen has not been set-up, as the plan is to install the projector first and project at max zoom to work out the largest scope screen I can accommodate. Everything working ok so far, even though I am projecting onto my speakers – this will be an AT screen.

Initially, the max zoom was smaller than I expected. Switched from Auto to Zoom mode to engage the full 17:9 panel, and got a nice big 140” wide scope image.

Played a demo disc on the Panasonic 820 for a few minutes. So far so good. Looking forward to having the screen installed and projecting on a proper screen.

I am stepping up from a 54” plasma in my living room to a dedicated “batcave” HT so really looking forward to this. This thread has been a really useful source of information, and am glad to say I can now officially post here as an owner.
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post #14025 of 14949 Old 07-19-2019, 02:59 AM
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Originally Posted by locutus2k View Post
Same thing happen to me with pre Marantz 8805 N9 and LG Oled tv. The only workaround i've found is to temporarily unplug the hdmi from the Mrantz (vpr or tv depending on where is the issue).
Even if cycling the HDMI OUT button on the 8805 itself ?
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post #14026 of 14949 Old 07-19-2019, 04:07 AM
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Originally Posted by locutus2k View Post
Same thing happen to me with pre Marantz 8805 N9 and LG Oled tv. The only workaround i've found is to temporarily unplug the hdmi from the Mrantz (vpr or tv depending on where is the issue).
I would suggest something askew with the hdcp on the LG oled in that case ? as I woudl expect the 8805 to be identical in working as the av8802a. have you for sure switched off hdmi CEC control ?

ps by the way be wary of unplugging plugging hdmi while powered. hot swapping hdmi is not recommenced its far too easy to blow a hdmi board doing this. be very careful as will be an expensive fix and a nuisance ot have to ship in and back to get fixed.
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post #14027 of 14949 Old 07-19-2019, 04:11 AM
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Even if cycling the HDMI OUT button on the 8805 itself ?
if cycling;ling the hdd out it should work exactly same as on the av8802a.... ie synchs to one or other depending on output selected and if both it will provide lowest common denominator.

ps one caveat in this is source is programmed adequately for HDCP. I know the oppo 203 for instance when it was first released ... it was screwed in this regard. and it took an update to fix. this got screwed up again in a subsequent update and they fixed it again thankfully.....the pana players have been solid in this regard always ... ie the 900 and 9000 players i have owned. the oppo 205 from day one was perfect.

with hdcp the entire signal path has to work and without issue ie source, AVR/processor to display. any buggy hdcp programming and will fall over.

i have one device with failed hdcp programming. and it is well known for this for that I use a cheap hdmi switcher... these can be bought from eBay cheaply and all inadvertently strip hdcp and you use them in the path with these problematic devices...

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post #14028 of 14949 Old 07-19-2019, 05:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve Goff View Post
As pointed out in the Anthem owner thread, there is a cheap HDMI switch that will put out 4K on one output and 1080p on the other, doing away with this problem.


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Thanks, my TV is 4K...is there a switch that can handle dual 4K out?

Edit: what I may end up doing is just bypassing the Anthem for tv...I don’t need HT sound for casual tv (just connect TV set top directly to tv) watching and use the single Monitor out for the pj (critical movie watching)

Video:JVC N7 Sony 85” 900F Sony 55” 900F
Audio: Paradigm Prestige 95, 55C, 15b Dual JL Audio D110
Receiver/Amp: Anthem 1120, Emotiva XPA-5 Gen 2
Source: Panasonic UB820, triple black velvet batcave
Screen:120” 2.35 Elunevision Tab tensioned motorized drop down screen;

Last edited by asharma; 07-19-2019 at 05:14 AM.
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post #14029 of 14949 Old 07-19-2019, 06:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asharma View Post
Thanks, my TV is 4K...is there a switch that can handle dual 4K out?

Edit: what I may end up doing is just bypassing the Anthem for tv...I don’t need HT sound for casual tv (just connect TV set top directly to tv) watching and use the single Monitor out for the pj (critical movie watching)
this makes no sense ... if TV is 4k ? projector is 4k. AVR is 4k capable. what is the bother is it the TV that it is causing ?

yes with TV can always run an optical back from most sets to feet audio back to receiver
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post #14030 of 14949 Old 07-19-2019, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by alebonau View Post
this makes no sense ... if TV is 4k ? projector is 4k. AVR is 4k capable. what is the bother is it the TV that it is causing ?

yes with TV can always run an optical back from most sets to feet audio back to receiver
Thanks, great idea with the optical...
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Video:JVC N7 Sony 85” 900F Sony 55” 900F
Audio: Paradigm Prestige 95, 55C, 15b Dual JL Audio D110
Receiver/Amp: Anthem 1120, Emotiva XPA-5 Gen 2
Source: Panasonic UB820, triple black velvet batcave
Screen:120” 2.35 Elunevision Tab tensioned motorized drop down screen;
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post #14031 of 14949 Old 07-19-2019, 08:24 AM
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I am now an NX7 owner. Installed and did initial setup last night. Everything appears to be working. No untoward streaks in the image. Convergence is pretty good. Came with firmware v2.07 installed. Have not (yet) experienced any vertical line issues.

The corners are pretty bright on a black frame, unfortunately. I would even say very bright. That's disappointing, but I need time to determine how noticeable it will be during regular movie playback, or if it will settle down any when the lamp breaks in.

Only have a few hours on it. Did some very rudimentary adjustment and calibration. I'm not too impressed with initial HDR performance, sadly. Very bad clipping of highlights, no image pop. Looks worse than regular Blu-ray. I'm hoping this is a setting issue.

I'm connected to an OPPO 203. I've been reading this thread for a while. There's a lot of discussion about best settings when paired with a Panasonic player, but very little about what settings to use with an OPPO. I understand that the OPPO has a bug that will not deliver Wide Color Gamut when using the SDR2020 setting, so I've been bitstreaming the HDR to let the projector auto tone-map. (I did quickly test SDR2020 and it didn't help the clipping issue much.)

I'm not giving up the OPPO because it has features I value that the Panasonic players lack (21:9 aspect ratio scaling, HDMI input, region-free mod for Blu-ray). Advice would be appreciated.

Please no suggestions involving MadVR. I am not going to upgrade my laptop and rip all my discs just to watch movies. Perhaps if the Envy comes out at a price I can afford, I would consider it. The Lumagen Pro is way out of my price range.

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post #14032 of 14949 Old 07-19-2019, 08:52 AM
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I'm connected to an OPPO 203. I've been reading this thread for a while. There's a lot of discussion about best settings when paired with a Panasonic player, but very little about what settings to use with an OPPO. I understand that the OPPO has a bug that will not deliver Wide Color Gamut when using the SDR2020 setting, so I've been bitstreaming the HDR to let the projector auto tone-map. (I did quickly test SDR2020 and it didn't help the clipping issue much.)

I'm not giving up the OPPO because it has features I value that the Panasonic players lack (21:9 aspect ratio scaling, HDMI input, region-free mod for Blu-ray). Advice would be appreciated.
I could not get what I would call an acceptable HDR picture without using the Oppo for tone mapping (think I did Mode 2 100 nits), once you do that the picture gets a whole lot better. I also have a Panasonic UB820 that does a better job than the Oppo but I can only seem to make it look good for either bright scenes or dark scenes but not both. I am strongly considering a Radiance Pro at this point because I agree with your MadVR sentiment, I just want to pop in my disc and watch...
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post #14033 of 14949 Old 07-19-2019, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by asharma View Post
Hi folks

Using Anthem 1120, one monitor out to Sony Tv, one monitor out to N7 using 50 ft active fibre HDMI cable...when pj in standby, I get no video on tv...if I unplug the pj HDMI monitor out from the Anthem, boom, tv appears...any ideas? Thanks folks
I have been down the rabbit hole on this issue (Anthem MRX-720 that goes to both LG OLED and Epson 5040) and after pretty significant elevation inside of Anthem, I concluded that it's some sort of HDMI traffic issue and there is no economical solution (a very expensive HDMI switch might do it but an inexpensive splitter does not).

However we have a workaround that is fairly straightforward in our setup.

If we turn the system on with the TV as the display and it doesn't work (this happens when the HDMI input on the anthem has been changed from one source to another since the last time the TV was used) we simply power cycle the TV off and back on (with the remote - does not need to be unplugged) and it brings it back into working order 100% of the time.

This was after many trials and errors but this workaround is good enough for us even though it doesn't truly solve the problem. In our setup, we never have this problem when selecting the projector, only the TV.

Hope this helps.
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post #14034 of 14949 Old 07-19-2019, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by alebonau View Post
I would suggest something askew with the hdcp on the LG oled in that case ? as I woudl expect the 8805 to be identical in working as the av8802a. have you for sure switched off hdmi CEC control ?

ps by the way be wary of unplugging plugging hdmi while powered. hot swapping hdmi is not recommenced its far too easy to blow a hdmi board doing this. be very careful as will be an expensive fix and a nuisance ot have to ship in and back to get fixed.
All CEC controls are disabled. I unplug HDMI only on the standby tv or vpr. I have set the bypass mode when the pre is switched off, so i unplug the hdmi even with the pre is in standby mode.
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post #14035 of 14949 Old 07-19-2019, 09:59 AM
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May I share one observation that I have noticed with the operation of the iris/aperture. When projector is firing up from standby, the aperture closes nearly all the way with only a tiny round opening (c2mm) left open. This is until the D-ILA logo appears on screen during which the aperture opens to about 75mm. It stays that way even with no source inputting the projector. This leaves unnecessary stray light on the screen during a fade to black scene or instances like example between trailers or logos. Whilst I am not expecting that aperture closes 100 per cent, I think that in this condition it is not working properly. Even tried reducing aperture to -15 in manual mode, and revert back to auto, did not reduce the size of the aperture further. Any thoughts about this will be appreciated.
Any suggestions/observations please?
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post #14036 of 14949 Old 07-19-2019, 10:36 AM
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I could not get what I would call an acceptable HDR picture without using the Oppo for tone mapping (think I did Mode 2 100 nits), once you do that the picture gets a whole lot better.
You found this worth giving up the Wide Color Gamut?

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post #14037 of 14949 Old 07-19-2019, 10:39 AM
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You found this worth giving up the Wide Color Gamut?
I don't think I am qualified to answer that to be honest, I haven't done any comparisions.
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post #14038 of 14949 Old 07-19-2019, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Josh Z View Post
I am now an NX7 owner. Installed and did initial setup last night. Everything appears to be working. No untoward streaks in the image. Convergence is pretty good. Came with firmware v2.07 installed. Have not (yet) experienced any vertical line issues.

The corners are pretty bright on a black frame, unfortunately. I would even say very bright. That's disappointing, but I need time to determine how noticeable it will be during regular movie playback, or if it will settle down any when the lamp breaks in.

Only have a few hours on it. Did some very rudimentary adjustment and calibration. I'm not too impressed with initial HDR performance, sadly. Very bad clipping of highlights, no image pop. Looks worse than regular Blu-ray. I'm hoping this is a setting issue.

I'm connected to an OPPO 203. I've been reading this thread for a while. There's a lot of discussion about best settings when paired with a Panasonic player, but very little about what settings to use with an OPPO. I understand that the OPPO has a bug that will not deliver Wide Color Gamut when using the SDR2020 setting, so I've been bitstreaming the HDR to let the projector auto tone-map. (I did quickly test SDR2020 and it didn't help the clipping issue much.)

I'm not giving up the OPPO because it has features I value that the Panasonic players lack (21:9 aspect ratio scaling, HDMI input, region-free mod for Blu-ray). Advice would be appreciated.

Please no suggestions involving MadVR. I am not going to upgrade my laptop and rip all my discs just to watch movies. Perhaps if the Envy comes out at a price I can afford, I would consider it. The Lumagen Pro is way out of my price range.
First congrats on the new toy! The NX7 is my 3rd JVC and the only one to suffer from bright corners. I'm happy to report that they have tamed down a lot with use (from definitely noticeable to barely). So hopefully yours will follow suit.

If you are using HDR PQ you should be able to get a decent picture with adjusting the overall mapping and the basic picture controls.
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post #14039 of 14949 Old 07-19-2019, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by jeahrens View Post
First congrats on the new toy! The NX7 is my 3rd JVC and the only one to suffer from bright corners. I'm happy to report that they have tamed down a lot with use (from definitely noticeable to barely). So hopefully yours will follow suit.
Glad to hear, because they are very noticeable right now. I hope you're right.

Quote:
If you are using HDR PQ you should be able to get a decent picture with adjusting the overall mapping and the basic picture controls.
I thought I was, but I will double check. I find some of the user menus to be needlessly confusing. It took me forever to figure out how to save a lens memory preset. Saying "Copy Mode" is not intuitive at all!

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Home Theater Writer/Editor, High-Def Digest

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post #14040 of 14949 Old 07-19-2019, 12:58 PM
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Please no suggestions involving MadVR. I am not going to upgrade my laptop and rip all my discs just to watch movies. Perhaps if the Envy comes out at a price I can afford, I would consider it. The Lumagen Pro is way out of my price range.
Congrats on your new toy.

I'm not going to suggest madVR, but not wanting to rip your disks is NOT a valid reason to discard it. If you want to keep using physical discs, you can do that with madVR. All players are happy to play a physical disc provided you have anydvdhd or similar running in the background. Many people prefer the convenience of having all your discs online, Kaleidescape-like, but that's not a requirement for madVR. jRiver supports both madVR and full BD/UHD bluray menus as well, so you get the full experience with 1:1 audio and video, and of course madVR dynamic HDR tonemapping that's better than anything else available at the moment.

Again, this isn't to change your mind, just to correct a common misunderstanding about madVR requirements. Ripping isn't mandatory.

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