Official JVC RS3000/NX9 - JVC RS2000/NX7/N7 - JVC RS1000/NX5/N5 - Owners Thread - Page 496 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #14851 of 18008 Old 08-15-2019, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by seanbryan View Post
Did you confirm that it isn’t your screen? You probably did, but if you haven’t I’d recommend confirming that first before additional troubleshooting.

If you can pause an image that shows the issue, try flipping and/or inverting the image. That might help clarify if it is something in the lens (which shouldn’t change) or something in the image itself.
Thanks for the input. I’m a newbie so just to confirm, how do I check if it’s a screen issue or not. Also, I’m not quite following the flip the image suggestion. Thanks

Ron
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post #14852 of 18008 Old 08-15-2019, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
Level 68 becoming more visible is not unexpected when you increase D.R.A. I was replying to your original question, i.e., D.R.A. should not “raise black floor” which is level 64.
Thanks Dom...so as long as 64 doesn’t increase I’m ok to raise the DRA slider on the 820? Does the fact 68 is increasing have any negative implications?

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post #14853 of 18008 Old 08-15-2019, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by asharma View Post
Does the fact 68 is increasing have any negative implications?
What kind of "negative" implications? The whole point in the DRA is to increase the values so that the image becomes brighter, at the same time not raising black or clipping the highlights (unlike the Brightness and Contrast controls).
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post #14854 of 18008 Old 08-15-2019, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by asharma View Post
Any input would be appreciated folks...Thanks kindly
I use the following:

NX7:
BT2020 color
Contrast +1
Brightness -3
HDR (PQ) gamma - overall mapping at 3

Panasonic UB820:
Basic Luminance LCD/Projector
HDR/2020
HDR Optimizer - Brightness -1

For Disney titles (no metadata):
HDR Optimizer - +3-5 overall, Brightness -3
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post #14855 of 18008 Old 08-15-2019, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
What kind of "negative" implications? The whole point in the DRA is to increase the values so that the image becomes brighter, at the same time not raising black or clipping the highlights (unlike the Brightness and Contrast controls).
Ok, got it...I’ll play with it tonight...I just can’t imagine raising DRA a few notches w/o sacrificing inky blacks, but I’ll give it a try...

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post #14856 of 18008 Old 08-15-2019, 12:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeahrens View Post
I use the following:

NX7:
BT2020 color
Contrast +1
Brightness -3
HDR (PQ) gamma - overall mapping at 3

Panasonic UB820:
Basic Luminance LCD/Projector
HDR/2020
HDR Optimizer - Brightness -1

For Disney titles (no metadata):
HDR Optimizer - +3-5 overall, Brightness -3
When u say HDR optimizer +3-5 u mean DRA +3-5? I ask because I thought HDR optimizer is just on or off...thanks

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post #14857 of 18008 Old 08-15-2019, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by asharma View Post
When u say HDR optimizer +3-5 u mean DRA +3-5? I ask because I thought HDR optimizer is just on or off...thanks
The first overall slider in the HDR optimizer screen on the Panny. I don't have it or a screenshot handy to recall the name.


Last edited by jeahrens; 08-15-2019 at 12:18 PM.
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post #14858 of 18008 Old 08-15-2019, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Ikemi View Post
Thanks for the input. I’m a newbie so just to confirm, how do I check if it’s a screen issue or not. Also, I’m not quite following the flip the image suggestion. Thanks

Ron
There’s a couple of ways you can check to make sure it isn’t your screen. The simplest is probably to pause the video with the lines showing and then hold up a pice of smooth white paper on the screen where the lines are. If this was being caused by your screen then the lines wouldn’t show on the paper. If you see it on the paper then you know it’s not the screen.

You could also use the lens shift when the image is paused to see if the lines stay in place or move as you move the image.


By flipping or inverting the image I’m referring to the settings you would adjust depending on if you were mounting on the ceiling or shelf, or using a front projection or rear projection setup. I’m not sure if the exact name or location of those options without having the menu in front of me. But my logic there is that you are seeing several curved lines. From the picture you posted they kind of looked like ))), right? So if you flip the image (as if you were setting up for rear projection) you might be able to tell if this was in the lens or imaging system. I would think that if it was something with the lens, then flipping the image should have no impact of the appearance of the lines. The ))) would still look like ))). But if you flip the image and the ))) now looks like ((( then that would tell you what you are seeing is something in the image.

That won’t necessarily give you an answer, but it might help better define what you are seeing.
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post #14859 of 18008 Old 08-15-2019, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by jeahrens View Post
The first overall slider in the HDR optimizer screen on the Panny. I don't have it or a screenshot handy to recall the name.
Thanks, got it...it’s the DRA...

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post #14860 of 18008 Old 08-15-2019, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by asharma View Post
Thanks, got it...it’s the DRA...
Cool (sorry my memory was failing me). Let us know how it looks! The brightness -3 on the JVC seems sample dependent so just play with it until you start clipping black (some report -2).

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post #14861 of 18008 Old 08-15-2019, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
What kind of "negative" implications? The whole point in the DRA is to increase the values so that the image becomes brighter, at the same time not raising black or clipping the highlights (unlike the Brightness and Contrast controls).
Just wanted to add, for non technical folks like me and w/o the tools, there are an array of adjustments on the Panny 820 (all the settings under the HDR optimizer section) and on the JVC besides normal contrast brightness etc there is the auto tone mapping and associated picture tone, dark level etc...toooooo many options for the non technically inclined...do the calibrator like Kris and Chad use ALL these options?

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post #14862 of 18008 Old 08-15-2019, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asharma View Post
Just wanted to add, for non technical folks like me and w/o the tools, there are an array of adjustments on the Panny 820 (all the settings under the HDR optimizer section) and on the JVC besides normal contrast brightness etc there is the auto tone mapping and associated picture tone, dark level etc...toooooo many options for the non technically inclined...do the calibrator like Kris and Chad use ALL these options?
So for titles with metadata, once you get the base settings right it will look good. Auto-tonemapping kicks in and you're set.

The controls under the HDR optimizer and the JVC tone controls really only need to be monkeyed with when the disc lacks metadata (like most all Disney titles). Which is why I put in the suggested settings for Disney. I find the Panasonic HDR optimizer easier to dial in so I use it to deal with these titles and leave the JVC controls alone.

Calibrators will dial in the base gamma and color profiles which the tone controls rely on. But the tone controls themselves still need to be adjusted when a title lacks the proper metadata even after calibration.
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post #14863 of 18008 Old 08-15-2019, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by jeahrens View Post
Cool (sorry my memory was failing me). Let us know how it looks! The brightness -3 on the JVC seems sample dependent so just play with it until you start clipping black (some report -2).
Thanks, I can BARELY see bar 68 at -2, so that’s where mine is set...my contrast however is +7 as I set it to clip at 1000 nits using R.Masciola white clipping pattern...sounds high to me but that’s how high I needed to raise it to clip at 1000 nits...

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Last edited by asharma; 08-15-2019 at 12:55 PM.
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post #14864 of 18008 Old 08-15-2019, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by asharma View Post
Thanks, I can BARELY see bar 68 at -2, so that’s where mine is set...my contrast however is +7 as I set it to clip at 1000 nits using R.Masciola white clipping pattern...sounds night to me but that’s how high I needed to raise it to clip at 1000 nits...
Under the HDR (PQ)/tone mapping menu what is your mapping level set to? Before adjusting that I found I had to bump contrast a lot to get a decent white level (+9 or 10 iirc). I ended up at 3 for mapping level and +1 on contrast.

But if what you have is working and looks good you may want to leave it be.

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post #14865 of 18008 Old 08-15-2019, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by jeahrens View Post
Under the HDR (PQ)/tone mapping menu what is your mapping level set to? Before adjusting that I found I had to bump contrast a lot to get a decent white level (+9 or 10 iirc). I ended up at 3 for mapping level and +1 on contrast.

But if what you have is working and looks good you may want to leave it be.
Interesting...ok, that sounds like we were similar...my JVC TMapping is 0...

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post #14866 of 18008 Old 08-15-2019, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by jeahrens View Post
So for titles with metadata, once you get the base settings right it will look good. Auto-tonemapping kicks in and you're set.

The controls under the HDR optimizer and the JVC tone controls really only need to be monkeyed with when the disc lacks metadata (like most all Disney titles). Which is why I put in the suggested settings for Disney. I find the Panasonic HDR optimizer easier to dial in so I use it to deal with these titles and leave the JVC controls alone.

Calibrators will dial in the base gamma and color profiles which the tone controls rely on. But the tone controls themselves still need to be adjusted when a title lacks the proper metadata even after calibration.
Thanks, I’m actually double TMapping...optimizer on Panny always on...I “think” Kris Deering and others like it...

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post #14867 of 18008 Old 08-15-2019, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by jeahrens View Post
Under the HDR (PQ)/tone mapping menu what is your mapping level set to? Before adjusting that I found I had to bump contrast a lot to get a decent white level (+9 or 10 iirc). I ended up at 3 for mapping level and +1 on contrast.

But if what you have is working and looks good you may want to leave it be.
Adjusting the JVC TMapping didn’t change my white clipping level...I’m now at +9 contrast, -4 brightness on the JVC and +3 for Dynamic range adjuster on panny...this was all set with panny optimizer ON...

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post #14868 of 18008 Old 08-15-2019, 05:43 PM
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N7 calibration observation and question

When using my JVC N7 with Panny 820, and using 4K black and white clipping patterns, with Panny optimizer on or off, brightness is -4, contrast is +9. When using my HiMedia Q10 Pro streamer with 4K mkv’s, using same test patterns brightness is -2, contrast is 7...

Does it make sense that the 2 devices would need different brightness and contrast levels? Does it tell me that the video processor in the Panny is that much more refined?

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post #14869 of 18008 Old 08-15-2019, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by TL5 View Post
I’m thinking of buying an NX7, but read a review that mentioned its upscaling left a bit to be desired. I watch a fair bit of sports and TV shows on the xfinity X1 platform on my Sony HW55es. Will the NX7 not perform well in this situation?
If only everything can be filmed, transferred, and displayed in 4K. You can only do so much with the content sent in.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ikemi View Post
Thanks Cleveland for the thoughts. The thing is though, as I understand it, I don’t think it’s a uniformity problem——it’s actually three distinct clear white lines that show up (wish it were clearer in my pic, sorry) almost as though something in light path causes that pattern just on that one small part of screen. Otherwise I think my white and color field uniformity is pretty good. My dealer is coming to finish off a bit of work on my installation so I guess I will show him and go from there. Thanks again for your opinion on this.

Ron
I wish that pic was clearer to I will say weather it is uniformity or a defect a choice on what do do has to be made, to fix or live with. Let us know what your dealer says, as I guess he gets to see it first hand......
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post #14870 of 18008 Old 08-15-2019, 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Ikemi View Post
Hi guys,



On my rs2000 I’m getting three or so defined white lines curved not quite semi circular that stand out on white backgrounds like clouds. Don’t see it on black background or when pic has color. Any ideas what this might be and is it something I need to be concerned about. Thanks!



Ron
Some kind of reflection off something shiny in the room? Can you take a photo further back of the room to see it overall, highlighting the position of the marks on the screen?

I doubt it is on the lens.

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post #14871 of 18008 Old 08-16-2019, 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Ikemi View Post
Thanks for the input. I’m a newbie so just to confirm, how do I check if it’s a screen issue or not. Also, I’m not quite following the flip the image suggestion. Thanks

Ron
Grab a piece of white printer paper and put it over the area and see if its still visible.

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post #14872 of 18008 Old 08-16-2019, 04:38 PM
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Can the rs2000 be controlled by IP address and how?
Thanks
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post #14873 of 18008 Old 08-16-2019, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
I'm fully frame matched (24 hz for 24fps) with CMD On high now. Panning scenes are smooth and the backgrounds are in focus not a blurry mess. I don't care what the director intended, he's not here. If I can improve upon his work I will.
Yeah I don't blame you. The whole "director's intent" thing is BS. Tune the picture to whatever you and your audience like best. Some people just really love soap operas. Nothing wrong with that

I'm just one of those people who hates the panning judder but hates soap operas even more.
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post #14874 of 18008 Old 08-16-2019, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
I'm fully frame matched (24 hz for 24fps) with CMD On high now. Panning scenes are smooth and the backgrounds are in focus not a blurry mess. I don't care what the director intended, he's not here. If I can improve upon his work I will.
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Yeah I don't blame you. The whole "director's intent" thing is BS. Tune the picture to whatever you and your audience like best. Some people just really love soap operas. Nothing wrong with that

I'm just one of those people who hates the panning judder but hates soap operas even more.

Are movies not shot at 23.976 fps, not 24 ?

When I check all my Blu-rays with BDInfo, I'm pretty sure that all of them in my collection with the exception of one, are all 23.976fps.
The one exception being a region "B" Blu-ray from the UK, "City of Ember"


I have my video card set at 23 Hz refresh rate (23.976) not 24.


https://www.videohelp.com/software/BDInfo


I haven't tried it with a 4K disc.


I think Woofer is another one that like CMD on high too.
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post #14875 of 18008 Old 08-17-2019, 02:16 AM
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Originally Posted by dragonleepenn View Post
Can the rs2000 be controlled by IP address and how?
Thanks
Yes. On PC you can use my JVCControl app.
http://www.hifiandtheater.com/jvccon...p-control-app/

Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffR1 View Post
Are movies not shot at 23.976 fps, not 24 ?

When I check all my Blu-rays with BDInfo, I'm pretty sure that all of them in my collection with the exception of one, are all 23.976fps.
The one exception being a region "B" Blu-ray from the UK, "City of Ember"


I have my video card set at 23 Hz refresh rate (23.976) not 24.


https://www.videohelp.com/software/BDInfo


I haven't tried it with a 4K disc.


I think Woofer is another one that like CMD on high too.
Sorry, I just use 24 for short. I'm also using 23.976.
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post #14876 of 18008 Old 08-17-2019, 05:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffR1 View Post
Are movies not shot at 23.976 fps, not 24 ?

When I check all my Blu-rays with BDInfo, I'm pretty sure that all of them in my collection with the exception of one, are all 23.976fps.
The one exception being a region "B" Blu-ray from the UK, "City of Ember"


I have my video card set at 23 Hz refresh rate (23.976) not 24.


https://www.videohelp.com/software/BDInfo


I haven't tried it with a 4K disc.


I think Woofer is another one that like CMD on high too.
Movies are typically shot at 24 fps and converted to 23.976 Hz for home release.
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post #14877 of 18008 Old 08-17-2019, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by JeffR1 View Post
Are movies not shot at 23.976 fps, not 24 ?
Practically all movies are shot at 24 fps. Its only in the US that production companies do their final home entertainment mastering at 23.976, slowing the film down slightly from the original rate; This is for comparability with US HDTV broadcast (23.976*5/2 = NTSC rate). European market releases have always been mastered at 24fps and sped up to 25fps at broadcast.

Up until a few years ago all US video based editing was done at 23.976 and the hardware behind the scenes managed the frame rate anomalies automatically
The final product is 24fps on film/digital master; and later conformed for video at 23.976 for broadcast

Nowadays the entire digital chain is 24fps. The only time you see 23.976 is for the US broadcast master.
real 24fps masters on itunes/netflix etc are quite common now
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post #14878 of 18008 Old 08-17-2019, 07:11 AM
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[QUOTE=markmon1;58434844]Yes. On PC you can use my JVCControl app.
http://www.hifiandtheater.com/jvccon...p-control-app/

Thanks, can it be done with iPhone/iPad? I’m not as smart as many around here so I apologize for my ignorance!
Nice photo’s on your site, only saw three pictures. I know the one is not yours (snell/Mac setup), anymore of your setup?How can I see them? What SS processor do you have?

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post #14879 of 18008 Old 08-17-2019, 10:32 AM
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[quote=dragonleepenn;58435302]
Quote:
Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
Yes. On PC you can use my JVCControl app.

http://www.hifiandtheater.com/jvccon...p-control-app/



Thanks, can it be done with iPhone/iPad? I’m not as smart as many around here so I apologize for my ignorance!



PeterV


I made a program that allows you to control your HT devices such as JVC from an iPhone/iPad or really any device with a web browser.

I’m willing to help you get it set up if you like.

The only limitation is that the program must run on a Windows PC somewhere in your network. It's not a standalone iOS app since you need to put it on the App Store for that to work.

Last edited by SirMaster; 08-17-2019 at 11:05 AM.
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post #14880 of 18008 Old 08-17-2019, 12:59 PM
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I wrote my own as well, mine is probably bespoke to my setup (jriver, jvc pj, hdmi capture) but I did break out the rest api back that can talk to a jvc pj from a web browser separately. You can find that at https://github.com/3ll3d00d/pyjvcpj (can make builds for osx or some linux distros easily enough)

I use it from my remote (web)app - https://github.com/3ll3d00d/ezmote - so if you use something similar then I imagine it would be easy enough to add that in (not plug and play or a standalone thing though)

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