Official JVC RS3000/NX9 - JVC RS2000/NX7/N7 - JVC RS1000/NX5/N5 - Owners Thread - Page 599 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #17941 of 20570 Old 10-18-2019, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by SirMaster View Post
Well madVR has lots of knobs and dials.

I set the settings to produce a better image. But you are free to control how much HDR highlights and such you want to see. It's all a tradeoff. Perhaps I took it down too flat, but I just wanted to show that it's possible to alter and fix it with a great tone-mapping like madVR.

At the very least, compared to the SDR the colors look wider and the there is more detail in the 4K remaster. As far as HDR, well it doens't seem like they did much for it, so you have to choose to set madVR somewhere in the scale between an SDR look and blown out highlights "HDR" look.
I actually was able to produce a much better image than before by going from v86 to v94/95 by small tweaks here and there. Still not how it should look but damn close.

Also, latest betas are killing it...but that's another thread of topic.
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post #17942 of 20570 Old 10-18-2019, 07:34 PM
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For the life of me, can't figure out why anyone would buy Starship Trooper on UHD to begin with lol.
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Originally Posted by skylarlove1999 View Post
Just when I thought I was out, they pull me back in!!! LOL. It is a cult classic. Not a cult that I belong to. LOL

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OMG!!!! This movie is so perfectly imperfect that it requires multiple, if not dozens, viewings to even begin to comprehend the true nature of its message.

And let's not forget we get to see Dina Meyer in all her glory...TWICE!!!!
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post #17943 of 20570 Old 10-18-2019, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post
For the life of me, can't figure out why anyone would buy Starship Trooper on UHD to begin with lol.
I've been wonder why this movie has been such a problem. HDR was done poorly because they didn't think anyone would watch it on UHD 🤣🤣🤣
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post #17944 of 20570 Old 10-18-2019, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Killroy View Post
OMG!!!! This movie is so perfectly imperfect that it requires multiple, if not dozens, viewings to even begin to comprehend the true nature of its message.



And let's not forget we get to see Dina Meyer in all her glory...TWICE!!!!
Dina Meyer cult 100%

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post #17945 of 20570 Old 10-18-2019, 07:52 PM
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Hey guys, by Tuesday of next week, I will be the proud owner of a NX7 and it will be paired to a Stewart ST100 Balon frame 125" 2.40:1 screen.

What anamorphic lens system would you guys recommend for this setup?

Also, would I need something like an Oppo 203 in order to stretch the image for anamorphic use or will the projector take care of that?

Thanks!


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post #17946 of 20570 Old 10-18-2019, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ERuiz View Post
Hey guys, by Tuesday of next week, I will be the proud owner of a NX7 and it will be paired to a Stewart ST100 Balon frame 125" 2.40:1 screen.

What anamorphic lens system would you guys recommend for this setup?

Also, would I need something like an Oppo 203 in order to stretch the image for anamorphic use or will the projector take care of that?

Thanks!


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Congrats!!

Very simple, Panamorph DCR lens and no you do not need an Oppo203. I have the RS2000 with the DCR lens with 120" 2:35 Stewart. Anamorphic D is awesome and works great with 16:9 and C for 2:40 content so not using installation modes like I used to.
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Home Theater: JVC RS2000, Stewart 120" 2:35 StudioTech 130, Panamorph DCR Lens, B&W 802 Nautilus, HTM1, 4-B&W 805's for surround, 4-Martin Logan 22's ceiling speakers ATMOS, 2- PB-16 Ultra Subs, Marantz 8802A, MacIntosh 8207 AMP and Proceed AMP 5, Panasonic 820, Apple TV, XBox One, HTPC with MadVR, Qnap NAS
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post #17947 of 20570 Old 10-18-2019, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERuiz View Post
Hey guys, by Tuesday of next week, I will be the proud owner of a NX7 and it will be paired to a Stewart ST100 Balon frame 125" 2.40:1 screen.

What anamorphic lens system would you guys recommend for this setup?

Also, would I need something like an Oppo 203 in order to stretch the image for anamorphic use or will the projector take care of that?

Thanks!


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Congratulations!!!. The Paladin DCR is mentioned frequently. You would not need anything other than the lens.

https://www.panamorph.com/jvc-dla-rs2000-dla-nx7/

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post #17948 of 20570 Old 10-18-2019, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by BondDonBond View Post
Congrats!!



Very simple, Panamorph DCR lens and no you do not need an Oppo203. I have the RS2000 with the DCR lens with 120" 2:35 Stewart. Anamorphic D is awesome and works great with 16:9 and C for 2:40 content so not using installation modes like I used to.


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Originally Posted by skylarlove1999 View Post
Congratulations!!!. The Paladin DCR is mentioned frequently. You would not need anything other than the lens.

https://www.panamorph.com/jvc-dla-rs2000-dla-nx7/

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Thanks guys! I'm pretty excited indeed! I used to have a JVC DLA-X500R and I loved that projector. After a brief stint with the LG HU85LA, I am extremely confident I made the right choice to come back to a JVC.

Please bear with me with regards to my anamorphic lens questions. Back when I had the X500R, I did CIH via the zoom method.

Now, I really want to do it "right" and use every pixel and lumens from this bad boy.

So, I'll be doing more research and asking questions AFTER I search this forum, of course.

Going to definitely try and read this entire thread! LOL


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post #17949 of 20570 Old 10-18-2019, 08:06 PM
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Official JVC RS3000/NX9 - JVC RS2000/NX7/N7 - JVC RS1000/NX5/N5 - Owners Thread

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Originally Posted by David Mathews View Post
Thanks for checking. Your probably fine with +2. low-medium-high makes some sense too. With high, its not compressing the low end of PQ curve as much. Let us know if Kris has thoughts. While many of us are now at Brightness=0, @Manni is still running Brightness -2 after 3.10 update. He did not do factory reset (which may or may-not matter) Of all people manni would report if he saw issues with calibration lol. He has a BasicColor Discus so can measure down low better, so if he had a crush issue I think he would notice. I'm running high, and yes even on high the 1st few steps are dim, but their progression seems better than before update. This is by eye. My id3 actually looks to be reading values too high at 2%, have a discus on the way to better measure. Discus Owners Thread









I'm in the Brightness 0 and improved HDR blacks bucket as well, did you do factory reset after firmware update too? Reset may not matter because people were reporting new brightness 0 settings before the reset fix for frame adapt lockup was found. Just curious.


Kris said that Frame Adapt is a dynamic gamma, so it will affect above-black levels based on the image content. That’s probably why I was seeing different results with different patterns and different HDR levels.
Bottom line, it shouldn’t be used to check patterns, do that with the HDR10 profile, and use the same Brightness setting for Frame Adapt.

Last edited by bathes2051; 10-18-2019 at 08:10 PM.
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post #17950 of 20570 Old 10-18-2019, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by ERuiz View Post
Thanks guys! I'm pretty excited indeed! I used to have a JVC DLA-X500R and I loved that projector. After a brief stint with the LG HU85LA, I am extremely confident I made the right choice to come back to a JVC.

Please bear with me with regards to my anamorphic lens questions. Back when I had the X500R, I did CIH via the zoom method.

Now, I really want to do it "right" and use every pixel and lumens from this bad boy.

So, I'll be doing more research and asking questions AFTER I search this forum, of course.

Going to definitely try and read this entire thread! LOL


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Please note the general guidance that your throw distance should be at least 1.4 times your screen width when using a Paladin DCR lens or at least 1.6 times your screen width when using the standard Paladin lens. Just something to keep in mind before you mount your new baby.

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post #17951 of 20570 Old 10-18-2019, 08:11 PM
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Uhd player question. I have the nx5 and I have a Xbox one S that I am using for my uhd player. Can anyone tell me if there is much difference getting a nice Panasonic player vs the Xbox for uhd Blu-ray’s. Just wondering if anyone have tried both to compare.

Thanks!
I just returned the xbox one x I got at costco and bought an nvidia shield and a panasonic ub420 bluray player. With the one x I had two problems. First, 7.1 audio did not just work for all formats. And two, I could get a good picture but I had to use RGB for non-HDR and it was just a pain in the butt to tweak it right. It seemed there was not one setting I liked. In the end I just gave up because I found it so annoying. Shield does audio passthrough for streaming media playback. Note that I set up the 420 the same day I applied the 3.10 firmware so keep that in mind but I find the picture just always good from bluray and 4k bluray now and there is no real tweaking. One person's opinion, lots of this is pretty subjective.
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post #17952 of 20570 Old 10-18-2019, 08:12 PM
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What I mean by editorializing is suggesting that there's no point to telling JVC about problems like this because we assume they probably won't do anything about it anyway. That decision is for the company to make, not for users. If we don't tell them about the issue, they won't even have the opportunity to decide.
JVC reads this thread. As I said in an earlier quote of your post, JVC was aware of your post already, when I sent them a link. So I am not sure why you keep stating people are making the decision for JVC? See post 17875.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...l#post58697184

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post #17953 of 20570 Old 10-18-2019, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by dsm1212 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Huntmx24 View Post
Uhd player question. I have the nx5 and I have a Xbox one S that I am using for my uhd player. Can anyone tell me if there is much difference getting a nice Panasonic player vs the Xbox for uhd Blu-ray’️s. Just wondering if anyone have tried both to compare.

Thanks!

I just returned the xbox one x I got at costco and bought an nvidia shield and a panasonic ub420 bluray player. With the one x I had two problems. First, 7.1 audio did not just work for all formats. And two, I could get a good picture but I had to use RGB for non-HDR and it was just a pain in the butt to tweak it right. It seemed there was not one setting I liked. In the end I just gave up because I found it so annoying. Shield does audio passthrough for streaming media playback. Note that I set up the 420 the same day I applied the 3.10 firmware so keep that in mind but I find the picture just always good from bluray and 4k bluray now and there is no real tweaking. One person's opinion, lots of this is pretty subjective.
Cool. I haven’t seemed to have too many problems with the Xbox. Seems to look good to me. I can’t remember what settings I have it on. The main annoying part is to get atmos on Netflix you have to switch audio to bitstream but seems to sound weird when you are watching non atmos content
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post #17954 of 20570 Old 10-18-2019, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skylarlove1999 View Post
Please note the general guidance that your throw distance should be at least 1.4 times your screen width when using a Paladin DCR lens or at least 1.6 times your screen width when using the standard Paladin lens. Just something to keep in mind before you mount your new baby.

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Thanks for the heads up. Actually, my intentions are to research as much as I can, so I can make a wise choice once we buy a house and move into a permanent location.

At my current apartment, I definitely don't have the minimum throw necessary for the DCR to work properly.

Heck, my screen is 125" but the max size I will be able to throw is 113"! Like I said, this is just temporary but I am planning for my dedicated home theater in the near future.


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post #17955 of 20570 Old 10-18-2019, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by bathes2051 View Post
Kris said that Frame Adapt is a dynamic gamma, so it will affect above-black levels based on the image content. That’s probably why I was seeing different results with different patterns and different HDR levels.
Bottom line, it shouldn’t be used to check patterns, do that with the HDR10 profile, and use the same Brightness setting for Frame Adapt.
For what it is worth, I am also still running with -3 brightness setting on my RS3000. I am very happy with my black levels using the frame adapt mode. I haven't seen crushed blacks, in fact the new DTM processing seems to have improved shadow detail while keeping my black levels low because the tone mapping is so much better each frame.
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post #17956 of 20570 Old 10-19-2019, 12:29 AM
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For what it is worth, I am also still running with -3 brightness setting on my RS3000. I am very happy with my black levels using the frame adapt mode. I haven't seen crushed blacks, in fact the new DTM processing seems to have improved shadow detail while keeping my black levels low because the tone mapping is so much better each frame.


I’ve looked at the S&M evaluation patterns in HDR10 mode and am now in the Brightness 0 camp. At -1, the level 68 checkerboards disappear.
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post #17957 of 20570 Old 10-19-2019, 03:49 AM
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I’ve looked at the S&M evaluation patterns in HDR10 mode and am now in the Brightness 0 camp. At -1, the level 68 checkerboards disappear.
This is not how you set brightness.

You set brightness by using the highest setting that doesn’t raise the black floor (hence kills your on/off contrast). Often, this means crushing 17 or 68, in order to keep 16/64 black.

This is especially the case when peak white is low.

I frequently have to crush 17 in sdr when peak is 50nits or less, while it’s easier to just resolve 68 in hdr with a 100nits peak.

With 3.10, I still have to use a -2 setting for brightness, otherwise it raises the black floor and kills on/off. This is obvious visually and confirmed by measurements. My on/off goes from 30,000:1 with brightness=-2 to 24,000:1 with brightness=0 (this is low lamp, iris fully open, with filter, mid throw).

If you don’t have a meter able to read black, put a black pattern on screen and press hide on the remote. There should be no difference.

You don’t set brightness by resolving 17/68. You set brightness by NOT raising 16/64.

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post #17958 of 20570 Old 10-19-2019, 04:41 AM
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I've been getting a start up error periodically lately. It's a BStock NX5, I've had for about 2 months.

Worked great until about 2 weeks ago, when I turned it on, the fan went into over drive then the whole thing shut off with the Light indicator flashing and the Warning and Standby indicators solid red. The manual says turn it off then back on, did that and it worked. It happened again a few days ago, but this time I had to unplug it and let it wait a few minutes before it would start up.


Then today, it just won't start up, whatever I do. I've had it unplugged, I reseated the lamp, restarted it over and over, it just keeps doing that same error.

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post #17959 of 20570 Old 10-19-2019, 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
If you don’t have a meter able to read black, put a black pattern on screen and press hide on the remote. There should be no difference.

You don’t set brightness by resolving 17/68. You set brightness by NOT raising 16/64.
This caught my attention - would using the Hide button in this manner be a valid way of actually setting Brightness to avoid raising Black Level? From a practical standpoint, this end-point might be easier to identify visually than using the various patterns, looking for subtle blinking of bars, etc., since you'd be using the entire screen, could look at it from normal seating position, etc.

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post #17960 of 20570 Old 10-19-2019, 05:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
This is not how you set brightness.

You set brightness by using the highest setting that doesn’t raise the black floor (hence kills your on/off contrast). Often, this means crushing 17 or 68, in order to keep 16/64 black.

This is especially the case when peak white is low.

I frequently have to crush 17 in sdr when peak is 50nits or less, while it’s easier to just resolve 68 in hdr with a 100nits peak.

With 3.10, I still have to use a -2 setting for brightness, otherwise it raises the black floor and kills on/off. This is obvious visually and confirmed by measurements. My on/off goes from 30,000:1 with brightness=-2 to 24,000:1 with brightness=0 (this is low lamp, iris fully open, with filter, mid throw).

If you don’t have a meter able to read black, put a black pattern on screen and press hide on the remote. There should be no difference.

You don’t set brightness by resolving 17/68. You set brightness by NOT raising 16/64.

+1

Hide doesn't work well for my old eyes, I need something side by side.

I zoom pic down a little bit so background light scatter is on sides top/bottom of screen. Then while up close to side of screen I adjust until black on screen is same as (or one click below) the scatter on sides. Then I back up and check 16/64 and 17 (for knowledge only.)
  • on old firmware, I had crush. Agree 100% crush was preferable compromise. (Picture would look grey and washed out if not.)
  • on 3.10, level 17 is just barely visible in a bat cave, best I've ever seen.

I like your idea to verify with meter, but can't yet with my id3. I have seen your and @bobof 's posts on Discus, have one on the way. And your first posts in your calibration thread are an absolute gold mine, saving incredible amounts of time. Everyone here interested in calibrating JVC should read them if they're not already aware. Thanks for all you do!
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Last edited by David Mathews; 10-19-2019 at 05:56 AM.
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post #17961 of 20570 Old 10-19-2019, 05:53 AM
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This caught my attention - would using the Hide button in this manner be a valid way of actually setting Brightness to avoid raising Black Level? From a practical standpoint, this end-point might be easier to identify visually than using the various patterns, looking for subtle blinking of bars, etc., since you'd be using the entire screen, could look at it from normal seating position, etc.
Using hide (provided there is zero ambiant light in the room) is the next best thing to check contrast if you don’t have a meter able to measure black. Unfortunately it’s not always easy to see a minor black floor raise, and in that case a good enough meter (not an i1display3) is necessary.

The new models have a small delay when applying hide that makes it more difficult in borderline cases, such as -1 here. -1 raises the black floor, but it’s not visible with hide, while 0 is very visible.

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post #17962 of 20570 Old 10-19-2019, 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
Using hide (provided there is zero ambiant light in the room) is the next best thing to check contrast if you don’t have a meter able to measure black. Unfortunately it’s not always easy to see a minor black floor raise, and in that case a good enough meter (not an i1display3) is necessary.

The new models have a small delay when applying hide that makes it more difficult in borderline cases, such as -1 here. -1 raises the black floor, but it’s not visible with hide, while 0 is very visible.

yeah, delay on hide messes me up. What do you think of the zoom work around mentioned above?

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post #17963 of 20570 Old 10-19-2019, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by David Mathews View Post
yeah, delay on hide messes me up. What do you think of the zoom work around mentioned above?
Sure, that's another way, though if you don't want to mess with your zoom settings (as they can be a pain to get back to the exact same state, given that they are analog, not digital), you could simply crop any side in the installation menu by say 30 or 50 pixels to get the same result (I haven't tried this, but I assume it would be the case as crop should be a partial hide). That's digital, so going back to zero will get you back to exactly where you were.
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Last edited by Manni01; 10-19-2019 at 07:03 AM.
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post #17964 of 20570 Old 10-19-2019, 06:50 AM
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Hi guys,

Have nx7 on firmware 3.10. Watched captain marvel last night as well as latest men in black. Frame by frame, frame adapt on high, wide, low lamp, iris wide open. Men in black looked great, but captain marvel was just ok—-seemed a little dark in spots and didn’t pop as much as I would like even when I switched to high lamp. Does anybody have this experience with captain marvel or opinions on the 4K hdr quality of captain marvel? Thanks
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post #17965 of 20570 Old 10-19-2019, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
Sure, that's another way, though if you don't want to miss with your zoom settings (as they can be a pain to get back to the exact same state, given that they are analog, not digital), you could simply crop any side in the installation menu by say 30 or 50 pixels to get the same result (I haven't tried this, but I assume it would be the case as crop should be a partial hide). That's digital, so going back to zero will get you back to exactly where you were.

Ah, good idea!

I've been leaving zoomed about a cm for exactly the analog reasons you mention. lack of masking not bad since ambient light in my bat cave is low.

I'm at min throw for DCR lens, so your suggestion to crop may allow me to zoom back out and not see slight bow in image. Will try it! Thanks!

Dave
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post #17966 of 20570 Old 10-19-2019, 07:28 AM
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Hi again,

Sorry another quick question. Just recently received my free spare lamp for nx7. Replaced lamp to make sure spare worked and left it in. How can you tell if the lamp is perfectly seated when putting a new one in. Can it be just a little off and if it was what would I notice with the picture. Is it even possible to not seat lamp the way it should be—- seemed to fit in the projector only one way with not a lot of chance to go wrong in seating it. Sorry if this is a stupid question— I’m a newbie just trying to figure all this stuff out.
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post #17967 of 20570 Old 10-19-2019, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Ikemi View Post
Hi again,



Sorry another quick question. Just recently received my free spare lamp for nx7. Replaced lamp to make sure spare worked and left it in. How can you tell if the lamp is perfectly seated when putting a new one in. Can it be just a little off and if it was what would I notice with the picture. Is it even possible to not seat lamp the way it should be—- seemed to fit in the projector only one way with not a lot of chance to go wrong in seating it. Sorry if this is a stupid question— I’m a newbie just trying to figure all this stuff out.
I think of it like a light bulb. If the light comes on you installed it properly. If it doesn't you didn't.

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post #17968 of 20570 Old 10-19-2019, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Ikemi View Post
Hi guys,

Have nx7 on firmware 3.10. Watched captain marvel last night as well as latest men in black. Frame by frame, frame adapt on high, wide, low lamp, iris wide open. Men in black looked great, but captain marvel was just ok—-seemed a little dark in spots and didn’t pop as much as I would like even when I switched to high lamp. Does anybody have this experience with captain marvel or opinions on the 4K hdr quality of captain marvel? Thanks
Captain Marvel is not one of the better looking Marvel movies IMO. A lot of the film looks really flat and dark. With that said it does stretch its legs pretty well with some nice HDR highlights near the end and has one of the better Marvel Atmos tracks.
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post #17969 of 20570 Old 10-19-2019, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Treshnell View Post
I've been getting a start up error periodically lately. It's a BStock NX5, I've had for about 2 months.

Worked great until about 2 weeks ago, when I turned it on, the fan went into over drive then the whole thing shut off with the Light indicator flashing and the Warning and Standby indicators solid red. The manual says turn it off then back on, did that and it worked. It happened again a few days ago, but this time I had to unplug it and let it wait a few minutes before it would start up.


Then today, it just won't start up, whatever I do. I've had it unplugged, I reseated the lamp, restarted it over and over, it just keeps doing that same error.
have you tried to reload the firmware
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post #17970 of 20570 Old 10-19-2019, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
Using hide (provided there is zero ambiant light in the room) is the next best thing to check contrast if you don’t have a meter able to measure black. Unfortunately it’s not always easy to see a minor black floor raise, and in that case a good enough meter (not an i1display3) is necessary.

The new models have a small delay when applying hide that makes it more difficult in borderline cases, such as -1 here. -1 raises the black floor, but it’s not visible with hide, while 0 is very visible.
What position should the manual iris be in to try this hide method ?

I tried it before with a 100 % black target and did not see any change hide or not hide, even at 2 o'clock in the night when the room is completely dark that I need a flashlight to move around, the screen never goes black and if I stand between the screen and projector I can very clearly see my own shadow on the screen ( N7B manuf date may 2019).
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