Official JVC RS3000/NX9 - JVC RS2000/NX7/N7 - JVC RS1000/NX5/N5 - Owners Thread - Page 612 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #18331 of 28614 Old 10-27-2019, 04:54 AM
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Hi,

new owner of a RS2000

I too have the above pixel adjustment problem. I find that I need to do the fine adjusment at each startup cos it seems to be off each time I turn it on? this has never happened with my older JCV 1080p projector.

it's getting better, the first 10-20 hrs I find the red/blue lines are WAY off, but now it's only 1-2 fine clicks off.

is this normal? will it "settle" in after >100hrs?

I have about 50hrs on it at the moment.
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post #18332 of 28614 Old 10-27-2019, 05:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derder View Post
Hi,

new owner of a RS2000

I too have the above pixel adjustment problem. I find that I need to do the fine adjusment at each startup cos it seems to be off each time I turn it on? this has never happened with my older JCV 1080p projector.

it's getting better, the first 10-20 hrs I find the red/blue lines are WAY off, but now it's only 1-2 fine clicks off.

is this normal? will it "settle" in after >100hrs?

I have about 50hrs on it at the moment.
Convergence will change as the projector warms up. Fire it up, wait 45 minutes, then adjust convergence and try not to use fine or zone. Can you get the *center* of the screen adjusted this way after waiting 45 minutes? If so, you're probably fine. Using fine 2-3 clicks isn't really worth it as it's not something you can see from your seating position anyway.

It does seem that these projectors need a few days to acclimate to the room. Not 100 hours but a few days.

JVC Control - my software for controlling JVC projector via IP control.
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JVC IR Codes - free online pronto code converter for JVC IR codes.
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post #18333 of 28614 Old 10-27-2019, 06:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derder View Post
Hi,

new owner of a RS2000

I too have the above pixel adjustment problem. I find that I need to do the fine adjusment at each startup cos it seems to be off each time I turn it on? this has never happened with my older JCV 1080p projector.

it's getting better, the first 10-20 hrs I find the red/blue lines are WAY off, but now it's only 1-2 fine clicks off.

is this normal? will it "settle" in after >100hrs?

I have about 50hrs on it at the moment.
Three panel projectors have always shown different convergence cold, vs warmed up. Never touch the convergence controls until the projector is fully warm. Then adjust once and leave it alone.
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post #18334 of 28614 Old 10-27-2019, 07:32 AM
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B stock only has 1 year warranty. Risky? Do any companies warranty b stock?
Most B Stock is warrantied or people would not buy them. A new item that has a one year warranty usually gets 90 days. These projectors have a 3 year on brand new unit, so you get a year, makes sense to me.

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I'm the same way. In my theater room I generally only watch movies. I've pretty much filled this movie storage system that I built years ago. I have many more on smaller storage shelves too. My son-in-law is standing next to it to give you a sense of scale. This wall unit is very large!
That's a selection
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post #18335 of 28614 Old 10-27-2019, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Jim Cutter View Post
I'm the same way. In my theater room I generally only watch movies. I've pretty much filled this movie storage system that I built years ago. I have many more on smaller storage shelves too. My son-in-law is standing next to it to give you a sense of scale. This wall unit is very large!
Jim, that wall looks awesome!
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post #18336 of 28614 Old 10-27-2019, 08:57 AM
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Thanks for the feedback, so yours needs needs adjusting too but not as extreme as mine. I have to adjust red and blue by two pixels horizontally and vertically which still isn’t enough. I then have to do somewhere in the twenties on the fine adjustment too.
If I couldn't get mine within acceptable range using whole pixel adjustments, I would probably ask for an exchange.

Based on your earlier posts, I gather that someone had already done this "extreme" setting (whole pixel + fine), but for the upright installation style, so that when you switched to the ceiling mount style you hit JVC's confusing interaction between pixel adjustments and installation styles discussed previously, which made the convergence error look twice as bad as it actually is, requiring you to flip the direction of the extreme settings.
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post #18337 of 28614 Old 10-27-2019, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by pjones View Post
If I couldn't get mine within acceptable range using whole pixel adjustments, I would probably ask for an exchange.

Based on your earlier posts, I gather that someone had already done this "extreme" setting (whole pixel + fine), but for the upright installation style, so that when you switched to the ceiling mount style you hit JVC's confusing interaction between pixel adjustments and installation styles discussed previously, which made the convergence error look twice as bad as it actually is, requiring you to flip the direction of the extreme settings.
I think I will mention it to the seller and JCV, I am using a lot of fine adjustment as well as -2 and +2 on the main pixel adjustment. I will have a look at exactly how much in a minute when I watch a film. Until I get some feedback I will just use it for a few days.

It could do with a bit of local adjustment as well, eg horizontally the red is just showing above the line on the left and below the line on the right.

Is it best to micro adjust both sides, one up and one down or make one side better on the whole adjustment and do twice as much correcting on the other side?

Thank you

Graham
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post #18338 of 28614 Old 10-27-2019, 09:34 AM
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Nice. I’ve been wanting to velvet my room too. Does it make a difference adding velvet to the entire room vs just a few feet above and around the screen?
You can look at my thread starting post 741. I would advise going to the black velvet thread titled something like "The blacker the room the better the image".

Post 741 https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attac...1&d=1515889912

The short answer is that the few feet just in front of the screen are critical. The rest of the room is less important as long as the room is not highly reflective and has a darker theme. Reflections from that far back in the room would need to be very bright to get back onto the screen in high enough intensity to actually wash out your image. You do need to have a dark color theme throughout the room its just that black velvet isn't absolutely necessary.

You can see how my room before black velvet has flat dark color painted on the ceiling and it was as non reflective as I could make it. However, it was still noticeable as you watched the movie and I found it distracting. I don't know how much it actually washed out the image but since my screen is so tight to my ceiling it was very noticeable.



Here it is after black velvet on the ceiling. I also did black velvet on the sides of the panels near the screen but it is difficult to see from the pic. The reflectivity is dramatically reduced. The effect is like an image floating in space. The perceived contrast in this situation makes it all worth it. I have lots of details in my thread. I see that some of my pics have been held hostage by photo bucket so I need to fix that when I get a chance.



You need to treat any material that is perpendicular to the image if it is close to the screen. At first I did not treat the sides of my proscenium but after I knocked out the ceiling reflections the sides then became noticeable. That is typical of projects like this and it is hard to know when to stop. But look at the sides and you can see the black velvet there. It really does make a difference.

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post #18339 of 28614 Old 10-27-2019, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graham N View Post
I think I will mention it to the seller and JCV, I am using a lot of fine adjustment as well as -2 and +2 on the main pixel adjustment. I will have a look at exactly how much in a minute when I watch a film. Until I get some feedback I will just use it for a few days.

It could do with a bit of local adjustment as well, eg horizontally the red is just showing above the line on the left and below the line on the right.

Is it best to micro adjust both sides, one up and one down or make one side better on the whole adjustment and do twice as much correcting on the other side?

Thank you

Graham
With the caveat that I've never tried JVC's local adjustments, my inclination would be to first optimize non-local adjustments for the center, where the optics are best anyway and where you probably care the most, and them apply local adjustments to the sides as desired.
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post #18340 of 28614 Old 10-27-2019, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graham N View Post
I think I will mention it to the seller and JCV, I am using a lot of fine adjustment as well as -2 and +2 on the main pixel adjustment. I will have a look at exactly how much in a minute when I watch a film. Until I get some feedback I will just use it for a few days.

It could do with a bit of local adjustment as well, eg horizontally the red is just showing above the line on the left and below the line on the right.

Is it best to micro adjust both sides, one up and one down or make one side better on the whole adjustment and do twice as much correcting on the other side?

Thank you

Graham
I would reset the projector. Then let it warm up 45 minutes, then do convergence adjustments.
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post #18341 of 28614 Old 10-27-2019, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim Cutter View Post
I'm the same way. In my theater room I generally only watch movies. I've pretty much filled this movie storage system that I built years ago. I have many more on smaller storage shelves too. My son-in-law is standing next to it to give you a sense of scale. This wall unit is very large!
Nice! Judging from your son in laws sweatshirt, he and I would get along great !
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post #18342 of 28614 Old 10-27-2019, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by pjones View Post
With the caveat that I've never tried JVC's local adjustments, my inclination would be to first optimize non-local adjustments for the center, where the optics are best anyway and where you probably care the most, and them apply local adjustments to the sides as desired.
Thanks for the suggestion, good idea

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Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
I would reset the projector. Then let it warm up 45 minutes, then do convergence adjustments.
I did reset the settings from the pixel menu, are you suggesting it might be worth doing a factory reset to see if it makes a difference. If so I will go through all the settings first and take note of them

Regarding the opinion that using fine adjustment should be avoided my settings I have to use are below. As I have said before the 2 pixels in the main setting isn’t enough.

On the main setting it is -2 and +2 for red and blue. In the fine settings it is H-13 and V 5 for red and H-28 and V-5 for blue.

Is anybody else using such extreme settings?

Thank you

Graham
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post #18343 of 28614 Old 10-27-2019, 04:40 PM
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Seating distance

What would an “average” distance be to sit from a 125” 2.35 Stewart Cima Neve screen paired with my NX7? Screen arriving soon (I hope, first one damaged in shipping)

Have not had a chance to try DTM yet, as waiting for screen. Reason I ask is with hockey on my 85” Sony, I find I have to sit 15 feet back to reduce Eye strain from the white ice and a 720p broadcast...

Room is only 17 ft deep so I hope I don’t need to sit 15 ft back with the new screen as all the speakers then get pushed towards the back few feet (2 Atmos rear, side surrounds, rear surrounds)...

I’m not a front row guy at the theatre, so just wondering how many feet people are sitting back...thanks folks

Video:JVC NX7, 125” 2.35 Stewart ST100 Electric, Sony 85” 900F Sony 55” 900F
Audio: Paradigm Prestige 95, 55C, 15b, 25s, Dual SVS SB3000
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post #18344 of 28614 Old 10-27-2019, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by asharma View Post
What would an “average” distance be to sit from a 125” 2.35 Stewart Cima Neve screen paired with my NX7? Screen arriving soon (I hope, first one damaged in shipping)

Have not had a chance to try DTM yet, as waiting for screen. Reason I ask is with hockey on my 85” Sony, I find I have to sit 15 feet back to reduce Eye strain from the white ice and a 720p broadcast...

Room is only 17 ft deep so I hope I don’t need to sit 15 ft back with the new screen as all the speakers then get pushed towards the back few feet (2 Atmos rear, side surrounds, rear surrounds)...

I’m not a front row guy at the theatre, so just wondering how many feet people are sitting back...thanks folks
I have a 100" screen (16:9) and sit comfortably 10 feet from the screen (screen to back of seat).
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post #18345 of 28614 Old 10-27-2019, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Graham N View Post
Thanks for the suggestion, good idea



I did reset the settings from the pixel menu, are you suggesting it might be worth doing a factory reset to see if it makes a difference. If so I will go through all the settings first and take note of them

Regarding the opinion that using fine adjustment should be avoided my settings I have to use are below. As I have said before the 2 pixels in the main setting isn’t enough.

On the main setting it is -2 and +2 for red and blue. In the fine settings it is H-13 and V 5 for red and H-28 and V-5 for blue.

Is anybody else using such extreme settings?

Thank you

Graham
My blue was out a touch horizontally when I first got my NX7, but after a few hours of use, the convergence apparently settled; so now without any adjustments, blue is out nearly a half pixel and red is just barely even sticking out of the white lines at all. I used pixel adjust by only one click for blue and all is good for me.

On yours, with those number of clicks using the fine setting, do you find the picture looks good? And if not, did you discuss your issue with the person who sold you the projector to see what they thought about an exchange?
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post #18346 of 28614 Old 10-27-2019, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by asharma View Post
What would an “average” distance be to sit from a 125” 2.35 Stewart Cima Neve screen paired with my NX7? Screen arriving soon (I hope, first one damaged in shipping)

Have not had a chance to try DTM yet, as waiting for screen. Reason I ask is with hockey on my 85” Sony, I find I have to sit 15 feet back to reduce Eye strain from the white ice and a 720p broadcast...

Room is only 17 ft deep so I hope I don’t need to sit 15 ft back with the new screen as all the speakers then get pushed towards the back few feet (2 Atmos rear, side surrounds, rear surrounds)...

I’m not a front row guy at the theatre, so just wondering how many feet people are sitting back...thanks folks
I would think 9 to 11 feet back would be fine.

I have a 133" Stewart 2.35:1 and I sit about 9 or 10 feet back depending on if I am sitting upright or reclined. I really enjoy the 2.35:1 aspect ratio so much more than 16:9 because it lets me sit close and the vertical is fully visible while my peripheral vision is fine too. With 16:9 it gets to be too tall vertically if I want to sit close and it doesn't fill out my peripheral vision if you shrink it down to where the vertical isn't too tall.

I also think 2.35:1 gives you that night out at the cinema feeling whereas 16:9 is more like television night.
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post #18347 of 28614 Old 10-27-2019, 05:18 PM
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I would think 9 to 11 feet back would be fine.

I have a 133" Stewart 2.35:1 and I sit about 9 or 10 feet back depending on if I am sitting upright or reclined. I really enjoy the 2.35:1 aspect ratio so much more than 16:9 because it lets me sit close and the vertical is fully visible while my peripheral vision is fine too. With 16:9 it gets to be too tall vertically if I want to sit close and it doesn't fill out my peripheral vision if you shrink it down to where the vertical isn't too tall.

I also think 2.35:1 gives you that night out at the cinema feeling whereas 16:9 is more like television night.
Sounds awesome...I don’t mind pulling my seating back for hockey as I don’t fire up the audio system and just use the tv speakers...I think part of the issue is for hockey, some 720p feeds look like crap on an 85” tv...if I can sit 12 feet back for movies on the NX7, that leaves space for good placement of rear Atmos, rear backs and side surrounds...

Video:JVC NX7, 125” 2.35 Stewart ST100 Electric, Sony 85” 900F Sony 55” 900F
Audio: Paradigm Prestige 95, 55C, 15b, 25s, Dual SVS SB3000
Receiver/Amp: Anthem 1120, Emotiva XPA-11 Gen 3
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post #18348 of 28614 Old 10-27-2019, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by asharma View Post
What would an “average” distance be to sit from a 125” 2.35 Stewart Cima Neve screen paired with my NX7? Screen arriving soon (I hope, first one damaged in shipping)
Cima Neve, you say....I have that screen at 125 2.35; NX7, you say...I have that projector with DTM installed.

For Hockey, you won't likely be using any HDR/DTM. Anyway, I think 11 feet away is a good spot. As far as brightness, if it's too bright for SDR, you have control over the PJ's static iris. Close it down a few clicks and you're good to go.
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Last edited by Aztar35; 10-27-2019 at 05:24 PM.
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post #18349 of 28614 Old 10-27-2019, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by asharma View Post
Sounds awesome...I don’t mind pulling my seating back for hockey as I don’t fire up the audio system and just use the tv speakers...I think part of the issue is for hockey, some 720p feeds look like crap on an 85” tv...if I can sit 12 feet back for movies on the NX7, that leaves space for good placement of rear Atmos, rear backs and side surrounds...
1080i cable transmissions look like crap also....compared to 4k with hdr.
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post #18350 of 28614 Old 10-27-2019, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Aztar35 View Post
Cima Neve, you say....I have that screen at 125 2.25; NX7, you say...I have that projector with DTM installed.

For Hockey, you won't likely be using any HDR/DTM. Anyway, I think 11 feet away is a good spot. As far as brightness, if it's too bright for SDR, you have control over the PJ's static iris. Close it down a few clicks and you're good to go.
Awesome! I won’t be using the NX7 for hockey as that’s what the tv is for...my Cima Neve will be an electric drop down...good to know u r only 11 ft away...
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Video:JVC NX7, 125” 2.35 Stewart ST100 Electric, Sony 85” 900F Sony 55” 900F
Audio: Paradigm Prestige 95, 55C, 15b, 25s, Dual SVS SB3000
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1080i cable transmissions look like crap also....compared to 4k with hdr.
I have yet to see an Lcos projector look good with cable. Sorry.
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post #18352 of 28614 Old 10-27-2019, 05:27 PM
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Awesome! I won’t be using the NX7 for hockey as that’s what the tv is for...my Cima Neve will be an electric drop down...good to know u r only 11 ft away...

11 to 12 feet is the front seating position and 15 to 16 is the rear. There are no issues with either seating position.
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post #18353 of 28614 Old 10-27-2019, 06:06 PM
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Green Book, A Simple Favor and Midsommar are 3 that come to mind.
Ari Aster likes 2.0:1. Hereditary was at that ratio as well as Midsommar. Vittorio Storaro has been an advocate for 2.0:1 and has shot most of his movies in this century at that aspect ratio.
He has also reconfigured some of the movies that he had shot previously to that aspect ratio, such as pre-4K versions of Apocalypse Now, as well as The Last Emperor.
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post #18354 of 28614 Old 10-27-2019, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by asharma View Post
Sounds awesome...I don’t mind pulling my seating back for hockey as I don’t fire up the audio system and just use the tv speakers...I think part of the issue is for hockey, some 720p feeds look like crap on an 85” tv...if I can sit 12 feet back for movies on the NX7, that leaves space for good placement of rear Atmos, rear backs and side surrounds...
For 16:9, that is only a 100" diagonal screen. For me, 9' back would be plenty. So I think you should easily fit in the 9' to 11' range.
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post #18355 of 28614 Old 10-27-2019, 08:16 PM
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I've been looking at everything with the default Manual iris setting on my RS1000, with the slider in the middle.

Does Dynamic Iris make brights brighter and darks darker, or is it a one-way deal?

What's the basic difference, if it can be easily described, between Auto 1, Auto 2, and Manual with the slider in the middle?

Phil
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Last edited by Philnick; 10-27-2019 at 08:19 PM.
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post #18356 of 28614 Old 10-27-2019, 08:41 PM
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On the seating distance question, I like to sit around one screen width away.

With my old 1080p Panasonic PT-AE2000 and a 9.5' wide screen, I sat there until my wife insisted on moving the couch back to 10'.

With my RS1000 and a screen width of 10' 4.25" for 16:9 material (in Auto aspect ratio) and 11' for letter-boxed material (in Zoom aspect ratio), I've been happy sitting at 11' back - but my wife hasn't seen the theater in operation yet.

I may have to set up an installation mode with a smaller image for her!
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Phil
True 4K/HDR10/3D JVC DLA-RS1000 (N5/NX5) projector, 7.2.4 Paradigm/Boston Acoustics/Onkyo speakers. Yamaha RX-A3070 (w/ Denon 2307CI to power 4 overheads). Oppo UDP-203, 4K Nvidia Shield, 4K Roku Ultra, 4K Amazon FireStick, Comcast 4K cable box, Win 10 PC.
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post #18357 of 28614 Old 10-27-2019, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Graham N View Post
I think I will mention it to the seller and JCV, I am using a lot of fine adjustment as well as -2 and +2 on the main pixel adjustment. I will have a look at exactly how much in a minute when I watch a film. Until I get some feedback I will just use it for a few days.

It could do with a bit of local adjustment as well, eg horizontally the red is just showing above the line on the left and below the line on the right.

Is it best to micro adjust both sides, one up and one down or make one side better on the whole adjustment and do twice as much correcting on the other side?

Thank you

Graham
I would recommend you do not mention that you corrected this with fine adjustment. What I'd say is that the projector cannot be converged. It's still not lined up even after maxing out the pixel convergence and leave it at that. If you say you can correct it using fine, you risk someone at JVC saying that it's within spec.

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Thanks for the suggestion, good idea



I did reset the settings from the pixel menu, are you suggesting it might be worth doing a factory reset to see if it makes a difference. If so I will go through all the settings first and take note of them

Regarding the opinion that using fine adjustment should be avoided my settings I have to use are below. As I have said before the 2 pixels in the main setting isn’t enough.

On the main setting it is -2 and +2 for red and blue. In the fine settings it is H-13 and V 5 for red and H-28 and V-5 for blue.

Is anybody else using such extreme settings?

Thank you

Graham
I would have no problem requiring -2 and +2 for convergence. It's doing that plus the fine adjustment that is a deal breaker. I'd definitely want this one swapped out.

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post #18358 of 28614 Old 10-27-2019, 09:12 PM
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Sounds awesome...I don’t mind pulling my seating back for hockey as I don’t fire up the audio system and just use the tv speakers...I think part of the issue is for hockey, some 720p feeds look like crap on an 85” tv...if I can sit 12 feet back for movies on the NX7, that leaves space for good placement of rear Atmos, rear backs and side surrounds...
Keep in mind a couple things. The Sony is tons brighter so that white will give you eye strain. Also, the details in 4K resolution are in the small pixel sizes. If you are sitting far back you will not be able to benefit from 4K resolution. It's not about sitting in the front row of the theater. The detail and resolution in the theater is far lower than your 4K projector It's about sitting close enough to actually benefit from and see what your new projector can do on 4K material. Sure on 720p content sit in the back. In general I'd try to stay within 1 screen width from the screen for your main movie location.
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post #18359 of 28614 Old 10-27-2019, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Philnick View Post
I've been looking at everything with the default Manual iris setting on my RS1000, with the slider in the middle.

Does Dynamic Iris make brights brighter and darks darker, or is it a one-way deal?

What's the basic difference, if it can be easily described, between Auto 1, Auto 2, and Manual with the slider in the middle?
No. Manual iris first limits the brightest your projector will get. Then when you set it to auto, it will keep that brightness cap limit and lower the black floor as needed.

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post #18360 of 28614 Old 10-27-2019, 09:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philnick View Post
I've been looking at everything with the default Manual iris setting on my RS1000, with the slider in the middle.

Does Dynamic Iris make brights brighter and darks darker, or is it a one-way deal?

What's the basic difference, if it can be easily described, between Auto 1, Auto 2, and Manual with the slider in the middle?
Quote:
Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
No. Manual iris first limits the brightest your projector will get. Then when you set it to auto, it will keep that brightness cap limit and lower the black floor as needed.
So to use Auto I should first move the brightness slider in Manual to brightest (I have a 0.92 gain screen and an image 11 feet wide), then switch to Auto? Or should I set brightness to taste? Is there a Spears & Munsil image I can use for that?

What's the difference between Auto 1 and Auto 2?

Phil
True 4K/HDR10/3D JVC DLA-RS1000 (N5/NX5) projector, 7.2.4 Paradigm/Boston Acoustics/Onkyo speakers. Yamaha RX-A3070 (w/ Denon 2307CI to power 4 overheads). Oppo UDP-203, 4K Nvidia Shield, 4K Roku Ultra, 4K Amazon FireStick, Comcast 4K cable box, Win 10 PC.
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